Some Ford V8s get all the attention—351 Windsor, Boss 302, the legendary 460—but what if I told you that none of those engines would exist if it weren’t for one scrappy little small block that paved the way? That’s right, today we’re talking about the Ford 289 Windsor, the V8 that set the stage for decades of Ford small-block dominance.

If you love classic Ford muscle, the 289 is a name you know. It powered the first Mustangs, made a name for itself in racing, and proved that big performance doesn’t always require big cubes. It laid the groundwork for the 302 and 351 Windsor, both of which became legendary in their own right. But the 289 is where it all started.

A Brief History of the Ford 289 Windsor

The Ford 289 made its debut in 1963 as part of the Windsor small-block family. It wasn’t Ford’s first small block, but it was the first one that really mattered. Before it, there was the 221 and 260, both of which were solid but never really set the world on fire. Then came the 289, and everything changed.

With a bore of 4.00 inches and a stroke of 2.87 inches, the 289 was compact but high-revving. It had enough power to make cars like the Mustang, Fairlane, and Falcon fun to drive while being light enough to keep handling sharp. By the time the Mustang launched in mid-1964, the 289 had already established itself as the go-to small block for performance.

Ford even had a high-performance version—the 289 Hi-Po, often called the K-code—which featured solid lifters, a hotter cam, and a beefed-up bottom end. It was factory-rated at 271 horsepower, but plenty of folks believe it made quite a bit more, especially in race-prepped Shelby GT350s and Cobras.

What Made the 289 So Special?

The 289 proved that displacement wasn’t everything. Back in the ’60s, most people thought bigger engines meant more power, end of story. But the 289 showed that a lightweight, high-revving V8 could hold its own against bigger, heavier engines like Chevy’s 327 and Pontiac’s 326.

One of the best things about the 289 was its flexibility. It was compact enough to fit in smaller cars like the Mustang and Falcon while still making enough power to keep up with the big boys. And thanks to its simple pushrod design and durable iron block, it had reliability to match.

It also became the foundation for the Ford small-block family. The 302, which followed in 1968, was just a stroked 289 with the same bore size but a longer 3.00-inch stroke. Without the success of the 289, there’s a good chance we wouldn’t have seen the 302, the 351 Windsor, or even the Boss 302.

Specs and Performance

The Ford 289 came in several flavors, from the basic two-barrel version to the high-performance K-code. Here’s a look at the key specs:

• Bore: 4.00 inches
• Stroke: 2.87 inches
• Displacement: 289 cubic inches (4.7 liters)
• Compression Ratio: Ranged from 9.0:1 to 10.0:1 depending on the version
• Firing Order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
• Oil Capacity: Around 5 quarts
• Horsepower: 195 hp (2-barrel), 225 hp (4-barrel), 271 hp (K-code Hi-Po)
• Torque: 258-312 lb-ft depending on the version

It was a high-revving engine thanks to its short stroke, which meant it loved to wind out in performance applications. This is why Shelby and other racers loved the 289—it wasn’t just powerful, it was fun.

Where You Could Find the 289

The Mustang gets most of the credit for making the 289 famous, but it showed up in plenty of other Fords and even some Mercurys. You could find a 289 under the hood of:

• Ford Mustang (1964.5-1968)
• Ford Falcon (1963-1968)
• Ford Fairlane (1963-1968)
• Mercury Comet (1963-1968)
• Mercury Cougar (1967-1968)
• Ford Torino (1968)
• Ford Galaxie (some versions, 1963-1967)

It even powered some of Ford’s full-size cars and wagons, though it really shined in the smaller, lighter platforms.

Upgrading and Modifying a 289

Even though the 289 is over 60 years old, it still has a huge aftermarket. If you’ve got one and want to wake it up a bit, there are plenty of ways to do it.

• Heads and Cam – The stock iron heads were decent for the time but leave a lot on the table. Swapping to aftermarket aluminum heads from Edelbrock, Trick Flow, or AFR can add a lot of power. A mild cam upgrade will also help it breathe better.
• Intake and Carb – Most 289s came with a two-barrel carb, but the four-barrel versions were noticeably stronger. Swapping to a modern four-barrel carb or even an EFI system like Holley Sniper can bring better throttle response and power.
• Exhaust – Factory manifolds work fine, but long-tube headers will really wake up a 289, especially if you pair them with a good dual exhaust setup.
• Stroker Kits – If you want more cubes, a stroker kit can take a 289 out to 331 cubic inches while keeping its high-revving personality. A 347 stroker is also an option, but most folks prefer starting with a 302 for that.

The 289 is a fantastic platform for a vintage Ford build, whether you’re going for a period-correct restoration or a warmed-up street machine. It’s got history, character, and plenty of go-fast potential.

Why the 289 Still Matters

The Ford 289 Windsor might not be the first engine that comes to mind when you think of classic Ford performance, but it should be. It powered the first Mustangs, helped Ford dominate racing, and laid the foundation for some of the most beloved small blocks in history.

If you’re restoring a ’60s Mustang, Falcon, or Fairlane, keeping a 289 under the hood keeps it true to its roots. And even if you’re looking for a fun, lightweight V8 for a project truck or classic Ford swap, a properly built 289 is hard to beat.

Whether you’re a Ford purist or just love a good high-revving small block, the 289 is a piece of muscle car history that deserves its due. If it weren’t for this little Windsor, we might not have gotten the 302, the 351W, or some of the most iconic Ford engines of all time.

If you enjoyed this deep dive into the Ford 289, make sure to check out my other engine videos. I’ve got plenty more coming up, so stick around.

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If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

You ever been sitting at a stoplight, minding your own business in your trusty V8, when some guy rolls up in his chrome-plated, tow-mirrored, Bluetooth-infested pavement princess? And he’s got that look—the one that says he thinks he’s got the baddest truck in town. Ever wanted to make him think twice? Maybe even tinkle just a little? Then my friend, you need exhaust cutouts.

Howdy folks, Ed here, and welcome back to Bullnose Garage! Today, we’re talking about one of the simplest ways to turn your truck from mild-mannered to downright menacing at the flip of a switch—exhaust cutouts. If you’ve never heard of them before, buckle up, because I put together a very scientific (read: ridiculous) experiment using my homemade chicken chamber to show just how dramatic these things can be.

What Are Exhaust Cutouts?

In simple terms, exhaust cutouts are bypass valves that let you dump your exhaust gases before they ever hit the mufflers. When closed, your truck sounds stock—calm, respectable, maybe even quiet. But hit the switch? Boom! Instant straight-pipe mayhem. Back in the day, hot rodders would unbolt parts of their exhaust at the track to let their engines breathe better. Now, thanks to modern electric cutouts, you don’t even have to leave your seat to uncork the beast.

I tested a pair of Dynovox 3-inch electric cutouts, which I’ll be installing on my upcoming 408 stroker build. But before that, I had to bench test them. Because let’s be honest, I’m not about to bolt something onto my truck without first making some noise in the garage.

Do Exhaust Cutouts Actually Make a Difference?

To find out, I rigged up my patented (not really) shop vac exhaust simulator and put these cutouts through their paces. Spoiler alert: They’re loud. Even with my very professional setup involving rubber chickens and a peanut butter jar, the sound difference was obvious. But what really surprised me was how the airflow changed. You’d think an open cutout would flow more air than a muffler, right? Turns out, airflow dynamics are a bit trickier than that.

Pros & Cons of Running Cutouts

Pros:

• Instant Volume Control – Flip a switch and go from stock to straight-pipe savagery.
• Potential Performance Gains – Reducing backpressure might give you a little extra horsepower, depending on your setup.
• Pure Joy – There’s something deeply satisfying about knowing you have the option to be a menace whenever you feel like it.

Cons:

• They All Leak Eventually – Over time, heat and carbon buildup prevent the butterfly valve from sealing perfectly.
• Legality – Depending on where you live, opening these up on public roads might get you some unwanted attention from Officer Friendly.
• Motor Wear – The electric motor is exposed to road grime, so routine maintenance is key.

Final Thoughts

Exhaust cutouts are one of the easiest ways to add some fun (and chaos) to your build. Will they make you more horsepower? Maybe. Will they make your truck sound like the gates of hell just opened? Absolutely. And sometimes, that’s all that matters.

Big thanks to Dynovox for sending these out. I’ll be installing them on my 408 stroker build soon, so stay tuned for that! If you want to hear what these sound like in real-world conditions, watch the full video on YouTube and let me know—would you ever run cutouts, or do you prefer a more “civilized” exhaust setup?

And as always, if you’ve got questions, comments, or just want to argue about whether backpressure actually matters, drop it in the comments below. Thanks for watching, and we’ll see you next time!

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If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

You ever have one of those moments where you’re definitely not looking for another project, and then—bam—you end up dragging home a new one anyway? Yeah, that’s pretty much how I ended up with Bullnose number two.

This 1982 Ford Bronco popped up thanks to a buddy of mine who saw my channel and said, Hey, I’ve got a Bullnose rotting away in my yard—want it? Well, I thought about it for all of five seconds before heading over with a trailer. Because let’s be honest, one Bullnose is never enough, right?

The Condition: Rough but Worth Saving

Let’s not sugarcoat it—this Bronco is a little rough. It’s got rust in all the classic spots—wheel arches, lower quarters, and especially the tailgate. The rear window is stuck down, which means rain and dust have had their way with the interior. The brakes? Shot. The fuel system? Not pulling gas from the tank. But hey, the important part—the engine—runs great.

Under the hood, it’s packing the legendary Ford 300 inline-six, which is a workhorse. It fired right up with a little help from a water bottle full of gas, so I know it’s got potential. And unlike my 1985 F-150, which is getting a stroked 408 Windsor, this Bronco is keeping its inline-six. Maybe I’ll freshen it up, maybe I’ll experiment with some mods, but it’s staying true to its roots.

The Plan: Building a Desert Crawler

So, what’s the game plan? Well, I want this Bronco to be a desert crawler—something that can handle the rough trails and open terrain out here in the Southwest. I’m thinking a 4-inch suspension lift, maybe a 1-inch body lift, and some bigger tires to give it the clearance it needs.

The drivetrain is solid—it’s got a Dana 44 TTB front axle and a Ford 9-inch rear, so with a little beefing up, it should be plenty capable off-road. The NP435 4-speed manual is staying, too, because it’s bulletproof and perfect for a build like this.

Of course, there’s a ton of work to do before it’s trail-ready. Brakes, fuel system, bodywork—it all needs attention. And then there’s the question of air conditioning. This Bronco didn’t come with it, but I might take on the challenge of adding a factory-style system or going aftermarket.

Follow the Build

This is going to be a long-term project, but that’s half the fun. I’ll be learning as I go—fixing rust, tackling mechanical issues, and maybe even trying out some off-the-wall ideas. If you’re into classic Ford trucks and Broncos, you’re going to want to stick around.

Watch the full video on YouTube

Want to see how this Bronco comes together? Subscribe to Bullnose Garage and follow along as I dig into this build, along with the 408 Windsor swap for my F-150. Got questions, ideas, or just want to tell me I’m crazy for taking on another project? Drop a comment—I’d love to hear what you think!

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If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

You know, my grandpa always said, “Always use the right tool for the job.” And yeah, that’s great advice—if you’ve got the right tool. But sometimes, you just gotta work with what you have. Still, there’s a fine line between being resourceful and making a mess of things, which is why I put together this video about the essential tools you actually need to tear down and rebuild an engine the right way.

Howdy, folks—Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, where today, we’re talking about the real-deal tools that’ll save you time, money, and maybe even your knuckles. If you’ve ever tried pulling a harmonic balancer with a claw hammer or scraping off a gasket with a putty knife, you know that having the right tool makes all the difference. And let’s be honest, while you can muscle your way through an engine build with the wrong gear, you’re probably just making life harder for yourself.

So in this video, I go through all the tools I’ll be using to tear down and rebuild my 351 Windsor, from the obvious must-haves like an engine hoist and stand, to the little things that make a big difference—like a plastic gauge for measuring bearing clearances or a ring compressor to keep from snapping piston rings like potato chips. I break it down into what’s absolutely necessary, what’s nice to have, and what you can probably skip unless you’re doing this professionally.

One of the biggest takeaways? Investing in the right tools up front saves you from a world of frustration down the line. Trust me, I’ve learned the hard way that a cheap torque wrench can turn an engine build into an expensive headache. I also cover some tricks to get by if you don’t have every tool in the book—because let’s be real, not everyone’s got a full machine shop at their disposal.

If you’re new to engine work or just want to make sure you’re not missing anything before you dive into a rebuild, this video is for you. And hey, even if you’ve been wrenching for years, maybe you’ll pick up a tip or two (or at least get a good laugh at some of the mistakes I’ve made over the years).

Watch the full video on YouTube.

While you’re here, check out the Bullnose Garage merch store for some killer hats and gear: https://bullnosegarage.com/merch

And as always, if you’ve got questions, comments, or just want to call me out on something I got wrong, drop it in the comments section. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you in the next one!

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If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Ford has always been known for pushing the envelope with truck engineering, and their Twin I-Beam and Twin Traction Beam (TTB) suspensions are perfect examples of that. These unique front suspension designs kept Ford trucks tough, comfortable, and capable on and off the road—but they also drove alignment techs crazy. Whether you love them or hate them, they played a defining role in Ford’s truck history.

What is Twin I-Beam Suspension?

Introduced in 1965 on the F-Series, the Twin I-Beam suspension was Ford’s answer to combining solid axle durability with independent suspension comfort. Instead of a single front axle, Ford split it into two forged steel beams, each with its own pivot point mounted to the frame. This allowed the front wheels to move independently while still handling the weight and workload expected from a truck.

For two-wheel-drive Ford trucks, the Twin I-Beam became standard and remained in production for over three decades. Its ability to soak up bumps while maintaining strength made it a favorite for work trucks and daily drivers alike.

Twin Traction Beam: The 4×4 Evolution

In 1980, Ford took the Twin I-Beam concept and added four-wheel-drive capability, creating the Twin Traction Beam (TTB) suspension. It retained the independent beam design but added a front differential and slip joints to accommodate suspension movement while driving all four wheels. This setup was used in Ford’s 4×4 trucks and Broncos until the late 1990s.

Strengths and Weaknesses

The biggest advantage of these systems was ride quality. Compared to traditional solid axles, Twin I-Beam and TTB setups provided a smoother ride on rough roads and trails. They were also incredibly durable, making them ideal for off-road racing and heavy work applications.

However, they weren’t without their drawbacks. The biggest complaint? Alignment issues. As the suspension moves, the camber angle changes dynamically, which can lead to uneven tire wear. Keeping these trucks aligned requires frequent adjustments and an experienced alignment tech who understands the system.

How to Identify and Maintain Twin I-Beam and TTB Suspensions

If you have a Twin I-Beam or TTB-equipped truck, regular maintenance is key. Bushings, ball joints, and radius arm mounts are common wear points and should be inspected frequently. Replacing these parts with high-quality components can extend the lifespan of the suspension and improve handling.

Alignment is another challenge. Many shops struggle to properly align these trucks because the knowledge is fading. If you’re getting an alignment, look for a shop with experience working on classic Ford suspensions, or consider learning how to make basic adjustments yourself.

Why Off-Road Enthusiasts Still Love These Suspensions

Despite their quirks, Twin I-Beam and TTB suspensions have a cult following in the off-road world. They excel in high-speed desert racing, with long-travel kits transforming them into serious off-road machines. Their durability, simplicity, and ability to handle heavy impacts make them favorites for Baja-style builds and custom suspension setups.

Final Thoughts

Ford’s Twin I-Beam and Twin Traction Beam suspensions were ahead of their time—rugged, innovative, and a little bit frustrating. While they’ve been replaced by modern independent front suspensions, they still hold a place in the hearts of off-roaders and classic Ford truck enthusiasts.

📺 Watch the full video on YouTube
🔧 Subscribe for more Ford tech and builds
💬 Got a Twin I-Beam or TTB truck? Share your experience in the comments

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If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

The Ford 9-inch axle has earned a legendary reputation for durability and adaptability. Since its debut in the 1950s, it has been a go-to choice for drag racers, off-roaders, and hot rodders alike. With its removable third member, strong pinion design, and massive aftermarket support, the 9-inch remains one of the most trusted rear axles in the automotive world.

What Makes the Ford 9-Inch Special?

The 9-inch gets its name from its ring gear diameter, but its biggest advantage is the removable third member. Unlike other rear ends, you can swap gear ratios without opening the housing, making it easy to fine-tune for highway cruising or drag racing.

Another key feature is its pinion placement. The lower position engages more teeth on the ring gear, spreading the load and increasing strength. This design makes the 9-inch axle ideal for high-horsepower applications, from muscle cars to off-road rigs.

Identifying a Ford 9-Inch Axle

Not all 9-inch axles are created equal. Nodular iron cases, identified by an “N” cast into the housing, are the strongest and most desirable for performance builds. Axles also came with either big or small bearings, with big-bearing versions better suited for heavy loads.

Because the 9-inch was used in so many Ford vehicles, widths vary. Builders often adjust width to fit specific applications, making it important to measure before committing to a swap.

The Ford 9-Inch in Racing

By the 1960s, racers quickly realized the 9-inch could handle extreme power. It became the axle of choice for drag racing, NASCAR, and off-road racing. In some cases, racers even disguised 9-inch axles to pass tech inspections in non-Ford cars, proving just how dominant it was.

Spline Count and Gear Ratios

Ford 9-inch axles came with 28 or 31-spline shafts, with the latter being stronger. For high-torque applications, aftermarket options offer 35-spline axles for even greater durability.

Gear ratios range from mild 3.00:1 for cruising to aggressive 4.56:1 for maximum acceleration. Swapping ratios is quick and easy, making it a favorite among racers and tuners.

Is the Ford 9-Inch Perfect?

While incredibly strong, the 9-inch does have minor drawbacks. Its pinion design creates slightly more power loss compared to newer axles, and many junkyard units require a rebuild before use. Still, its durability, ease of maintenance, and vast aftermarket support make it one of the best rear axles ever made.

Final Thoughts

The Ford 9-inch axle remains the gold standard for rear ends. Whether you’re building a classic Mustang, a high-horsepower street car, or an off-road truck, it offers unmatched strength and versatility. With easy gear swaps, proven durability, and endless aftermarket options, it’s no surprise that even after decades, the 9-inch is still the rear axle of choice for serious builders.

📺 Watch the full video on YouTube
🔧 Subscribe for more Ford tech and builds
💬 Have you worked with a 9-inch axle? Share your experience in the comments

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If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.