Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage for part four and what I hope is the final part of my brake job special, where I explain what all of these things on this table have in common, which is that their spoiler alert, all broken. Indulge me for a moment, friends and neighbors. I go into a little bit of story time as it pertains to the brakes on my truck.
So I did what I thought was the end of episode three. I had the rotors and the hubs replaced and everything put together. I did what I thought was a pretty good brake bleed and, uh, got the truck out on the road and embedded the brakes, which is to say that I got the truck up to 40, 45 miles an hour and braked real hard down to about five or kind of like a rolling stop. Um, you know, probably five or six, maybe seven times. Um, there’s not really a great road around here to do that on. There’s a lot of traffic right around here, but I managed to get that done and I noticed when I was doing that, the truck pulled to the left a little bit as I was braking. So obviously that’s something we have to look into. But other than that, everything seemed fine. The truck felt good. Uh, the brakes stopped the truck okay. The brake felt firm. I wasn’t having any other problems.
And then I went to try the parking brake and try to get the truck to stop on a hill. So the truck stopped on the hill with the parking brake held going both forward and backward the first time and subsequent attempts for me to check the parking brake as the truck was parked facing up a hill, so rolling backwards, which is the harder because the way drum brakes are designed, it’s actually the harder direction to stop a vehicle as it’s going backwards because of the rotation and the way the drum shoes and stuff are. But anyway, um, yeah, so holding a vehicle facing backwards on a hill is harder and subsequent times I tried it, it began to get worse and worse at holding the truck to the point where it wouldn’t hold the truck hardly at all. So I chalked that up to the cable stretching and figured I’d come back to the garage here to do some adjustment, tighten things up and, you know, take it out again and give another try.
And, uh, one of the times that I was tightening things up and pushing down on the parking brake cable, I felt something go a little loose and I thought, well, that’s weird, but nothing seemed terribly off. The brake pedal still went down and clicked okay, but it never really returned correctly. So it would, uh, it would click all the way down and then when I released the cable, it would pop back up, but it wouldn’t pop back up all the way. And I thought, man, did I just break my cable mechanism or not my cable mechanism, but the parking brake mechanism itself? Is the ratchet not working? Something like that, I didn’t know. And, uh, eventually I got to take a look at it and this cable broke. Now, obviously it didn’t break on the cable itself, but if you look at this thing, you can see right there, there’s like a bunch of plastic all kind of bunched up and nasty right there. Well, that’s this like a plastic coating that’s going around the outside of this steel braided cable and I think that this actual plastic coating snapped inside of here and made it so that I can’t, I can’t even move it like it won’t, it won’t slide in and out right there. Look, this is the new one. Yeah, no innuendo there. And again, this is the old one, nothing, right? Piece of crap.
So this is a Wagner cable. Now, I don’t want to say anything bad about the brand. I don’t know anything about Wagner, but the other cable, my new one is Brake Best, which is the O’Reilly name brand and I think it’s actually Dorman, but I don’t know for sure. Don’t quote me on that, but I think it is because all the pictures look the same as the Dorman model. And look, it’s got this nice little boot on it and there’s no plastic sheath around this cable. It’s just straight braided cable. It slides in and out really easy. So, oh, and also if you watch the first video in the series, this one here, the old one for some reason has this sort of like split loom right here and I kind of questioned why it was like that because the original only had one and that’s much closer to this new piece that I bought, which only has one there as well. So I’m really hoping that this cable works out better, but, uh, I’m also going to use some dry lube on this, I think, just to help it slide in and out a little bit better and I’m probably going to put some dry lube on the cables that are already on there, uh, just to give myself every possible chance of success.
Okay, we’ll take care of that parking cable and try to get that parking brake situation figured out. In the meantime, uh, maybe, you know, I was going back over some of the footage I took of bleeding the brakes and it didn’t look like maybe I got all of the air bubbles out. Now, ah man, when you get down toward the end, some of those bubbles are pretty microscopic and it’s hard to see. Uh, the way that I was doing it, I was using my TV with that, uh, sort of phone streaming software and the resolution just wasn’t really high enough to really see the bubbles. And once I got, um, a helper in here that could push the pedal while I actually watched the fluid flow and then also I could take video of it with my phone and play the video back to see, it’s pretty tedious, but it does work. I could very clearly see some bubbles coming out. So I thought, well, okay, I suppose maybe, uh, that’s the problem that I was having with the veering off to one side, that maybe one side wasn’t completely bled. So I went back to work trying to bleed the brakes and no matter how many times I tried, no matter what I did, I continued to get bubbles. And I’m talking I was out here all day long for one day just pumping the brake and getting bubbles and bubbles and bubbles and bubbles and bubbles.
So my next move was to get a new master cylinder. These master cylinders are not terribly expensive. It’s like 40 bucks, which I know is 40 that you shouldn’t need to have to spend, but I did to get a new one and this one’s a little worn out, so it’s actually not that bad of my, uh, idea to get a new one. And this one’s pretty gunky and stuff. Um, but when I changed my calipers, I let the reservoir pretty much run dry. So to solve that, you really need to bench bleed these and I figured, well, if I’m going to take it out of the truck anyway, yeah, I might as well replace it with a new one. So I got my new one, I got it bench bled, which we’ll see here in a minute and got it put on. So, uh, once that was done and I started bleeding the brakes, I had much better success. I got clean bleeds out of both back brakes and eventually I got a clean bleed out of the front, um, passenger side brake. Took a little bit longer. I think that’s because it was a brand new caliper and there’s a lot of air trapped up inside the caliper internals, but eventually I got a nice clean bleed out of that and then I came over to the driver’s side and began trying to bleed that one and no matter how long I sat there, no matter how much I did, no matter what I did, I just couldn’t get a no bubble bleed out of that front right or front driver side brake left now.
And I knew it wasn’t the master cylinder because if it were the master cylinder, I’d be having the same problem on the opposite side. So it had to be either the caliper or maybe something else going on in there. And so just to be 100% sure, I decided that I was going to look up the torque specs for, uh, the banjo bolt and check to see, uh, if I was torquing it correctly. Torque specs for banjo bolt are about 12 to 14 foot-pounds. This torque wrench goes from five foot-pounds up to about 80 foot-pounds, so it’s a big range and I think, well, I can get it using that. So I started tightening the banjo bolt down and it felt like this should snap and it wasn’t snapping, so I stopped and I thought, well, what’s a good tough bolt that’s right around that area that I could test this on? So I brought this down to the lowest setting, five foot-pounds, and started testing it on this. Now this bolt is what holds the caliper into the knuckle. You remember if you watched the last episode where I actually had the little spring in the clip that goes underneath the caliper that you pound in? And once that’s pounded in and holding the caliper up, this, uh, threads through that into the knuckle to keep that pin system from moving back and forth. I thought, well, you know, it’s a good strong bolt and it’s going in a knuckle so I can, you know, wrench on it pretty tight and not have to worry about it too bad and I’m certainly not going to wrench more than I’m not going to break it with more than, uh, with five foot-pounds of torque. So, you know, I’ll just put this on five foot-pounds and wait for it to break.
And so I put this on five foot-pounds and I turned it and I turned it and I turned it and, uh, yeah, this thing is a piece of spring because I did that with five foot-pounds. No, I had absolutely no idea how many foot-pounds I was actually applying to this, but it was way more than five. So this thing doesn’t work. Now don’t tell me I don’t know how to use a torque wrench because I’ve got several of this exact kind that are just different sizes. As a matter of fact, I use one to torque the lug nuts down for the wheels and it breaks just fine. So I know what I’m doing. This one is just broken to the point where I sheared off this bolt. Now I know you’re gonna tell me that I’m a dumbass because I should have felt that I was applying way more than five foot-pounds, but you know what? I was like, well, this thing’s gotta break at some point, right? And this is a good tough bolt. I mean, you know, should this thing should break like, you know, the clicker should click way before I ever get to the point of doing any real damage to this thing. No, no. So I sheared the head of this bolt off inside the knuckle and I just, oh, that was a rough day, let me tell you. Luckily this bolt, and I’ll get a video of it so I can put it up here on the screen so you’ll see what I’m talking about, but this bolt actually goes all the way through the knuckle and sticks out the other side. So I was able to get a pair of vice grips on the other side of this and turn it from the opposite direction and back it out so I didn’t have to do any drilling. Uh, thank God I didn’t have to replace the knuckle or do anything weird like that. Let me actually have that get that taken care of, but oh, that was, uh, that was a rough day. So this thing is going in the garbage.
So once I got that taken care of, I still hadn’t figured out why the driver’s side front caliper wouldn’t bleed. I just kept getting bubbles and bubbles and bubbles. Well, it turns out probably because I got a remanufactured caliper, which you almost always do, that the threads, the hole for the bleeder was a little loose and there was really no setting where I could screw in the bleeder far enough to prevent air from leaking in around the threads as I was bleeding, but yet still be far off enough out to actually bleed the line. Now I managed to get there just by having it really tight and just barely getting any fluid out by pumping the brake, but I was able to do that and, uh, verify that there was no more air coming out in the pumps that I was making. So I’m pretty happy with that, but I even wrapped some Teflon tape around the speed bleeder just to try to get it tighter in there so that no brake fluid would leak out around the threads and no air would come in around the threads because, you know, if you got air coming in around the threads of your bleeder while you’re trying to bleed the brakes, then you just have air bubbles going through the line constantly because they’re coming in through that bleeder connection and now they’re not actually in the line. They’re not going from the master cylinder down to the caliper, you know, but they are coming in around that bleeder then going back up out through your hose. Man, I must have went through like, God, 64 ounces or more of brake fluid. Now I kept recycling it because it’s all brand new stuff, but man, that was a pain in the ass. And then once I finally figured out that that’s what it was, it was like hallelujah moment.
Now the agenda for today is to replace that parking brake cable. I got video of where I replaced the master cylinder, so I’ll show you that and bled it on my, uh, my bench. So maybe we’ll take a look at that and once all that is done, then I’m gonna put the wheels back on and take her out for a drive and hope and pray that everything works fine and that the parking brake holds me on a hill because that is the entire reason I did all this stuff in the first place. And I will be damned if I’m not going to solve that one problem for this parking brake cable. The first thing that I’m going to do this time is put some dry lube in there just to help keep things moving along. I’m using dry lube as opposed to like white lithium grease or something else because underneath the vehicle, a lot of grime and grit can get up in there and you want to be dry so it doesn’t attract any more dust and dirt than you have to. Hopefully this will help this slide a little bit better. This cable looks different than the other replacement cable that I had because the other replacement cable had a plastic sheath that went around through this over this steel braided part and this one doesn’t appear to, or if it does, it’s really, really thin, which is fine by me. Either way, I’m just gonna go ahead and lube it up then I make sure this cable moves nice and free.
If you watched the first video in this series, then you know how this goes. Basically just install the cable onto the parking brake mechanism, run the cable down through the front of the cab of the truck underneath, clip it in, run the cable across to the linkage, hook it up, and then, uh, bolt your mechanism in. So I’m not gonna go through that whole thing again on camera. If you want to see how that works, go check out the first video in this series where I take it all apart and put it back together.
I have to admit that I wasn’t originally planning on replacing my master cylinder, but when I did my front calipers, a lot of the brake fluid ran out and the master cylinder actually went dry on me. It could be possible for me to bleed all the brakes even though this cylinder has gone dry. As a matter of fact, I’ve actually already tried to go around and get all four sides bled without having air in the system, but I haven’t had a whole lot of luck. So I’ve decided to take the master cylinder off and bench bleed the master cylinder since I’m going to have it off and go through the entire process of bench bleeding. I’m just going to replace it because I don’t know how old this one is. I don’t know when the last time, uh, it was replaced or, uh, if it’s in good internal working condition. I mean, it seems to be, but you know, I’m very much of the camp that if I’m gonna go through all the trouble of taking it off and bench bleeding it and going through all of that, then I may as well replace it with a new one. Um, this one here is an OE, it’s aftermarket anyway, so I’m not, looks like I’m not replacing an original Ford part or anything. And that way I know when it was last replaced and, uh, should be good to go.
So I’m gonna go ahead and get the fluid out of here as much as possible, disconnect this and, uh, get the new one on the bench and start bleeding. First order of business is getting all the brake fluid out of my old master cylinder and I’ll do that with this metal turkey baster looking thing that I actually picked up from a garage sale and just an old pop bottle and the rest I’ll just let drain out when I disconnect the brake lines. So now the brake lines are disconnected. Now I can disconnect it from the brake booster. So this is a 14 millimeter. It’s pretty tight. There it goes. Um, so there we go, old master cylinder removed. Here’s my new master cylinder. Picked it up from O’Reilly’s, it’s about 40 bucks, not too bad. Um, I think it’s the same as the store brand that you get probably at Advance or AutoZone or any of the other major parts places. It’s just a store brand. It’s basically exactly like what’s coming off the truck. Um, the only disappointing thing is that this said that it came with a bleeder kit and it didn’t. What it came with was a couple of plugs, right? Just like this, nothing to it, just a plug that I guess you could kind of use to bleed it, but I don’t want to do that. I want to actually try to bleed it the right way. So I modified the plug by adding a hose to it. I just drilled a hole through and stuck a hose in there. I had some clear hose or another brake bleeding kit that I had and that’s going to work perfect for me because, uh, just to make sure I don’t cross thread this, right? But I’ll get this in here good and tight. And I also happen to have a couple of, uh, infants. So let’s see, there we go, come on. So, uh, apparently this is good for infants, acetaminophen or brake fluid because this will go right on the end of one of these hoses and I can squirt brake fluid in there up through there to get all the air out. So that’s what we’re gonna do. Brand new container of DOT 3. This, by the way, is called bench bleeding because I’m on a bench. You just want to put this in a vise, get it nice and level and, uh, the reason you want a device is so you can have a lot of pressure pushing in on this cylinder in here and I’m just going to use a brass punch for that when the time comes. But the first thing I’m going to do is try to get all the air out of here by injecting brake fluid into these hoses. Now a lot of these kits come with syringes. Well, the brake bleeder kits come with syringes and they’re going to be a lot bigger than this, so this may take me a little while with this little infant acetaminophen syringe, but we’ll see how it goes. Oh yeah, see the air comes right out of there. I’m just going to keep doing this until no more air comes out. It may be a while this little syringe. Oh, that seemed like there was some fluid right there at the end. Yeah, we have a little fountain going on there now. Okay, so then I think that this side, well, there’s a little bit of air still coming out of there. Let me do one more, oop, and see. I’m actually pushing some air in because when I let the syringe go, some air actually comes back into there. So I’m gonna actually bleed this the opposite direction too by pushing in on my cylinder, but I will do that after I get most of the air out this way. Now that didn’t take nearly as long on that side. Okay, that’s much smaller. Okay, now that I’ve got that mostly done, let me get my, uh, little makeshift clamps here, just enough to hold that on if I can get it. You know, this is much harder on camera. Like when I do this by myself as a test, this stuff just goes right together and as soon as I’m rolling, it’s like, no, no, it’s going to be the most difficult thing you’ve done all day. There we go. Oh, that one worked. All right, so we’re going to top it off. Okay, now I’ll be looking into these hoses for air bubbles as I work the cylinder and you want to be gentle with this because the more you agitate this, the more likely you are to introduce air. Okay, so one of the problems I’m running into is I’m actually sucking air back into the system, so this hose needs to be lower and actually go into the reservoir so they don’t suck air back into the system. There we go. Whoa, that’s what I get for buying cheap dollar store clips. Okay, hopefully that’ll stay. Try this again. Uh, uh, okay, I don’t see any air whatsoever, so I think we’re about ready to try to put this on. There we go. Now for the tricky part. The tricky part is disconnecting these and connecting these back up while leaking as little brake fluid as possible. My flare nut wrench doesn’t seem to be getting any bite on this plastic fitting, so I’m going to just go ahead and use a pair of vice grips for this because I don’t care about this plastic fitting. I can destroy it trying to get it out and that’s fine. I have to make sure it comes out and just getting it loose should be enough. There we go. Let’s be real careful not to cross thread these because that would be a nightmare. Okay, there we go, fully bench bled master cylinder installed. Now it’s time to hit the road once again to see if I fixed the problems from my first go-round. I certainly hope so, but we will see.
Here we are back on the road again. Now you didn’t see any of my original footage for the first time that I did my test drive because it didn’t go so hot. I’m hoping that this time is going to go better. So all I’m doing now, since my brakes are already bedded, I don’t have to worry too much about getting up to a high speed and then slamming on the brakes to transfer the pad material onto my rotors or the, uh, shoe material onto my drums. All I’m testing this time is to make sure that the brakes feel good, they’re not spongy, and that they stop me appropriately and that I don’t veer side to side when I hit the brakes. Come up to a stop sign here and we’re going to see how this goes. Hopefully I don’t veer one side or the other and no, no veering side to side. So, uh, we’re actually at the stop sign now and that seemed to work pretty good. So what that tells me is that I’ve solved that issue where I veer side to side and almost certainly the problem there was that my brakes weren’t properly bled and I’ll talk a little bit more about that at the conclusion of the video.
Let’s do one more here. I got another stop sign coming up. Hopefully the fuzz isn’t anywhere around here because I’m going a little bit fast, but we are out in the county, so should be all right. And no, feels good. And now the time has come for my other true test: parking the truck on a hill and seeing if the parking brake holds me. Now I’ve got a specific hill in town that I use for this test because it’s actually in a parking lot and doesn’t have a whole lot of traffic. So let’s see how we do. All right, I’m facing down the hill and I’m not moving, which has never been a problem. It’s always been a problem facing up the hill. So let’s see how that goes. And up we go, parking brake applied and foot off the brake. And as you can see, the trees in the background aren’t moving and that’s because I’m not moving and the truck isn’t moving either, which is fantastic. I’m very happy to report that this second go round has been an unqualified success. My braking performance has been fantastic. I don’t veer either left or right when braking hard and maybe the most important thing as far as I’m concerned is that my parking brake is fixed. That’s right, ladies and gentlemen, I can now hold my truck on a hill both forwards and backwards. Oh man, that feels good. 85 F-150 Bullnose brake job special in the can finally. Man, that took me longer than I expected. It was like a month that my truck was laid up in this garage. Now that’s because I have a full-time job and a couple of babies in the house, so I don’t have as much time to devote to the truck as, you know, I’d probably like. But that’s okay, we get things done at our own pace.
As I go through this stuff, this is lessons learned right here. If you hear me repeat something I’ve already said, that’s because I’m an old guy and that happens to me and you’re just going to have to deal with it. Okay, so like I said, a 85 F-150 brake job special lessons learned. Go when you’re braking a vehicle and it’s drifting to one side or the other, hopefully and probably that’s because you didn’t bleed the brakes completely. At least that’s what you hope it is because if it’s not, then that means that it’s probably either a bad caliper or it could even be bad steering components in there somewhere. Although I wasn’t terribly worried about the steering component thing simply because I wasn’t having that problem before I took the truck out for a drive or changed any of the brakes. So I was pretty confident that it was either the caliper or it was the brake fluid and I was hoping it was the brake fluid and it turns out that it was because I got the truck finally bled correctly and that problem went away. So that is fantastic. I don’t have to replace my calipers again.
So, and we’ll talk a little bit about brake bleeding because that was a whole experience in and of itself that I didn’t expect, but we’ll get there. So the parking brake cable, I was very surprised that the Wagner cable broke as easily as it did and didn’t seem to work very well even when it wasn’t broke and maybe it was defective from the beginning. I don’t know, um, but I will tell you that the Brake Best, aka I think Dorman cable is way better. Man, that truck feels so good when you put the parking brake on now and you know, park down a hill. When I put the parking brake on and ratchet that thing down, it feels so solid. It has never felt like that since I’ve owned the truck, so that is fantastic. Definitely recommend that brand, Brake Best. I’ll put a link in the description to where I got that cable. Um, yeah, definitely, definitely a much better cable than the Wagner cable. Sorry, Wagner, you know, I got nothing against you, but that cable was just terrible.
So, uh, back to the, uh, the bolt that snapped, right? And the little torque wrench debacle that we had. Look, I know that you probably think I’m a dumbass and I probably am a dumbass, but not because of the torque wrench. The, well, okay, partly because of the torque wrench, but not because I don’t know how to use a torque wrench. Okay, so I know how to use a torque wrench. Uh, my problem was that I tested the torque wrench on a bolt that was installed on the truck and I should not have done that. What I should have done was tested the torque wrench on a bolt that was mounted somewhere in my garage, either maybe on the vise or maybe, you know, welded to a piece of metal or something that I knew if it busted, oh well. And, uh, something that I could really, really wrench in like a hundred foot-pounds or more on and not have to worry about it breaking. Um, testing that on the truck was stupid because obviously if the torque wrench is broken, which this one was, you run the risk of snapping a bolt, which I did. And, uh, you know, but you know, to be fair to myself, I didn’t expect that torque wrench to be broken that badly. It was brand new. I had just taken it out of the package. So, uh, that said, if you guys have the recommendations for a good torque wrench, let me know. I’m definitely in the market for it. I was never going to use the Harbor Freight torque wrenches to build my engine. I know better than that. I’m going to use a better name brand, but, and I was going to wait until I was building the engine to get that. But now maybe, uh, you know, that I’ve thrown that torque wrench away, I probably ought to go ahead and replace it with something much better. So, uh, I don’t know that I have the cash for a digital version. I don’t even know if a digital version is necessarily better than a click stop version, but, uh, you know, debate that, that would be great, uh, to find out you guys’ thoughts on that.
Now on to the bleeding, which turned out to be a way bigger pain than I ever expected it to. And I think the reason is because I let the master cylinder run dry. Uh, the master cylinder ran dry because I took the brake lines off the calipers in the front of the truck and just sort of let them leak into a bucket, which, you know, ran the master cylinder dry. And then of course I cleaned it out thinking that, uh, you know, it needs to be cleaned, so we’ll clean it out and fill it with new brake fluid. But the problem is that when you do that, air gets into the nooks and crannies of the master cylinder and really it’s, it’s possible to bleed that entire system from scratch on the vehicle, but really you need to take the master cylinder off and bench bleed it because that is so much easier and the master cylinder is not hard to remove. So that’s definitely a good idea to do that. And of course, since I was taking it off anyway, I figured I may as well replace the whole master cylinder, which I did. And once that was done and bench bled and reinstalled in the vehicle, those rear brakes bled right away, like within five pumps all the air came out and they were good to go. So that was a very good validation that I was on the right path to take care of this bleeding problem. The front right bled fairly quickly. It took a little bit longer, maybe 25, 30 pumps for that, but I’m guessing that’s probably because of the calipers brand new. There’s some nooks and crannies in there and, uh, you got to get all of the air out. And then of course, the driver’s side front is a whole other story altogether.
One thing to note about bleeding brakes, which was very frustrating, is that you’ve got to get all the air out. I kept getting all these little micro bubbles like the, you know, the carbonation in a Coke bottle or something. Uh, that’s the kind of size bubbles we’re talking about and they just kept coming out no matter what I did. It was very, very frustrating, but you got to get those out because if you don’t, over time, they could coalesce into a much larger bubble which can get in there and cause sponginess and responsiveness issues. You just don’t want that. So try to get, well, not try and get all the air out of your brake lines. Uh, that’s important.
Now the issue that I was having with the front left is that I knew I had to get all the air out and I just kept getting air in the lines every single time I would pump the brake and it began to get really, really old. And of course the reason for that is because I was having air come in around my bleeder screw and no matter how many times I pump the brake, the air would always come in around the bleeder screw and then go back up to the lines and it looked like I never had the brakes properly bled. To solve that, I put Teflon tape around the bleeder. Once I found out that was the issue, that took a couple of days to track that stupid thing down, but once I figured that’s, uh, what the problem was, I put some Teflon tape around it and got it fairly tight in there, but at the point where I could still bleed it, but it was, you know, tight enough that it wasn’t going to leak around the threads and that took care of it. I was able to actually bleed it to the point where it wasn’t leaking anymore. A lot of guys say that you can use grease. If you put grease around the threads of the bleeder’s screw, it’ll prevent air from going in that way. I tried that, it didn’t work for me and it may just because I didn’t use enough grease. I was kind of afraid to get too much grease in there and maybe I don’t want it getting inside and causing some issues inside where the actual brake fluid would flow and that kind of stuff. Teflon tape worked for me. It could work for you to give it a try if that’s your issue. Remember that could be an issue if you keep pumping your brakes and you get nothing but air, check those bleeder screws because man, it took me a couple of days to figure that out and it was like, oh, when I finally figured that’s what it was, ah, that was a huge relief off my mind and I got that thing bled. As you saw, took it off for a test drive, performed flawlessly. It breaks like a dream. It breaks now better than it ever has. Obviously, it, uh, the parking brake works better than it ever has, uh, feels solid, feels good. I’m so happy. It’s nice to have brand new fresh brake system. I know when it was installed, I know how it was installed and I can schedule my future maintenance, uh, based on these, these dates that I know that known good components were put in, you know, that’s important. And I also learned a ton along the way. If I ever have to service my brake system again, I’ll, uh, have a reference other than just the internet and YouTube to pull from. So definitely a frustrating long, but overall good experience because we’re back on the road and better than ever and that’s the way you always want to be at the end of the day. So if you have any questions, comments, concerns, growers, internet ramblings, stick them below. Always thanks again for watching, guys. We will see you next time.