After nearly five years of anticipation, the day has finally arrived—I’m starting the teardown of my 351 Windsor engine. Buckle up and join me on this adventure filled with unexpected surprises, both good and bad, some shocking discoveries, and even a few painful lessons. Oh, and did I mention the profit? Yep, I’m making some cash along the way. You won’t want to miss this!
The Beginning of an Exciting Journey
So, let’s rewind a bit. I picked up this 1995 F-150 chassis equipped with a 351 Windsor engine and an E4OD transmission for just $500—practically a steal! Along with the chassis, I got the ECM, wiring harness, steering column, steering wheel, and the gauge cluster. I’ve already sold the gas tanks, gauge cluster, and steering wheel with the column, putting me well on my way to breaking even. Who knows? I might even turn a profit when all is said and done.
Day One: The Teardown Commences
The first items to come off were the cruise control module and the throttle cable. Both were connected to the throttle body linkage and were right on top—easy pickings. Just like that, I made a quick $25 from the cruise control module.
But then came the first hiccup. While trying to remove one of those stubborn hose clamps with pliers, I managed to pinch my thumb. Ouch! Lesson learned: always use the right tools for the job to avoid unnecessary pain.
Next up was the brake fluid reservoir, which was so deteriorated from sitting in the southwestern sun for five years that it practically crumbled in my hands. There was no clean way to drain it without getting brake fluid everywhere—including my shoes. The bolts were rusted solid, so I ended up removing the entire assembly. Unfortunately, it wasn’t worth anything and went straight into the trash.
By the end of day one, I might not have made monumental progress, but I did pocket $75 and started clearing the way for the real work ahead.
Day Two: Discoveries and AI Assistance
I continued dismantling, removing the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid. Throughout this process, I’ve been using AI tools to help identify parts, check part numbers, and find out their values. It’s like having a mechanic in my pocket, saving me tons of time and energy. If you’re not using AI in your projects, you’re missing out!
I then tackled the alternator—a 3G model. It won’t fit my Bullnose since it’s a side mount and not a pivot mount, so up for sale it goes. That’s another $40 in my pocket. If you’ve got an older truck and haven’t done the 3G alternator swap yet, what are you waiting for? I’ve got a great video on how to do it, and it’s an easy mod that makes a huge difference.
Removing the throttle body was next. Even though it was dirty, once cleaned up, I estimate it’ll bring in about $65. Not bad for a day’s work. By the end of day two, I had added $85 to the tally.
Day Three: More Parts and More Cash
I continued snapping pictures, checking part numbers, and deciding what to keep or sell. Most of the parts aren’t going into my new build, so they’re either heading to the trash or up for grabs on the marketplace.
I removed the smog pump and its bracket. To get the pump off, you typically need to pull the pulley to access the bolts, but I found it easier to remove the entire bracket with the pump still attached. That’s $80 for the smog pump and $75 for the bracket.
The AC compressor came off smoothly since it was already drained. Remember, if you’re removing an AC compressor that’s still charged, handle it safely and legally. That’s another $80 added to the total.
Next was the transmission cooler, which I hope to get around $20 for. I also tackled the power steering pump. The lines were a pain, so I decided to cut them—no value lost there since they weren’t worth anything in their condition. I learned that the power steering lines loop around the front of the chassis for cooling—a neat little discovery.
By the end of day three, I had racked up a cool $255.
Day Four: Overcoming Obstacles
I decided to remove the radiator fan. I even rented a special tool from the parts store, only to find out I didn’t need it—the fan had four regular bolts! With the clutch included, that’s another $80.
The power steering pump came off next, along with its bracket. I’m considering upgrading to a Saginaw pump for my new build, so this one goes into the sale pile—$65 for the pump and $50 for the bracket.
Then came a bit of frustration. The intake manifold had one star bolt tucked down between the intake runners—a different bolt size in an awkward spot. My star bit’s base was too big, but after digging through my tools (never throw anything away!), I found the right size.
When I lifted the upper intake manifold, I discovered that the previous owner had cut all the wires to the injectors. The wiring harness was ruined—a potential $80 down the drain. It was a stark reminder that when you inherit someone else’s project, you take the good with the bad.
Assessing the Progress and Looking Ahead
After four days spread over three weeks, I’ve made significant progress and learned a ton. The engine is looking cleaner, and I’m hoping to get a decent amount of cash from selling parts. The total so far? Let’s just say I’m well past breaking even.
I still have work to do—removing the fuel rails, draining the fluids, and figuring out how to get the chassis into the garage. One of the tires is shot, but I have a plan to move it a short distance.
The Grand Plan: Rebuilding and Beyond
This teardown is just the beginning of an exciting journey. I’m documenting every step as I rebuild this 351 Windsor engine—from pulling it out of the chassis to running it down the strip.
Here’s what’s coming up:
- Moving the Chassis into the Garage: Since it can’t move under its own power, I’ve devised a method to get it inside. Stay tuned for that adventure!
- Engine Removal and Teardown: We’ll dive deep into the engine, inspecting every component, and I’ll share tips on what to look for during a rebuild.
- Machine Shop Visit: I’ll take the block to the machine shop, covering the services they offer, costs, and why they’re essential (or not) for your build.
- Engine Build-Up: From painting the block to selecting components like the camshaft, valves, lifters, and rotating assembly, I’ll walk you through my choices and the reasoning behind them.
- Installation and Testing: Once built, I’ll fire up the engine on a stand before installing it into the truck. We’ll cover the removal of the old engine, cleaning up the engine bay, and getting everything hooked up.
- Hitting the Strip: The ultimate goal is to take the truck to the drag strip and see what this rebuilt engine can do!
Join Me on This Adventure
I’m not a professional mechanic—just a guy with a passion for engines and a desire to learn. I’ve done my homework, read books, and watched countless videos, but there’s always more to discover. I hope to bring in a pro to fill in any gaps and ensure we’re doing everything right.
Whether you’re an experienced gearhead or someone looking to get into engine rebuilding, I invite you to follow along. Together, we’ll navigate the challenges, celebrate the victories, and maybe even make a few bucks along the way.
Don’t Miss Out
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Got questions, tips, or just want to share your own experiences? Drop a comment on the video. Let’s build a community where we can all learn and grow together.
If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!
For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.