Category Videos

Few transmissions in automotive history have earned a reputation as solid as the Ford C6 automatic. Built to handle the power of Ford’s toughest V8 engines, this three-speed workhorse became a staple in vehicles ranging from family sedans to heavy-duty trucks and even industrial equipment. In this week’s video on Bullnose Garage, we take a deep dive into the C6’s history, design, and versatility—showing why it remains a favorite among Ford enthusiasts.

A Transmission Built for Power

Introduced in 1966, the C6 replaced Ford’s aging MX and FX automatics. With big block V8s like the 429, 460, and FE series under Ford’s hood lineup, the company needed a gearbox that could stand up to serious torque. The C6 delivered. Its lightweight aluminum case (a shift from the cast iron of its predecessors) and innovative engineering struck the perfect balance of strength and efficiency.

The transmission was so versatile that it served across multiple engine families, including small blocks like the 302 and 351 Windsor, big blocks like the 429 and 460, FE engines like the 390, and even diesel powerplants like the 6.9L and 7.3L IDI. However, not all C6s are interchangeable. Each engine family requires a specific bell housing, so make sure you’ve got the right match for your build.

Durable by Design

One of the C6’s standout features is its Simpson planetary gear set. By combining two planetary assemblies into a compact unit, Ford reduced moving parts while maximizing torque transfer. This innovation made the C6 both simpler and tougher than many other automatics of its time. Whether towing, off-roading, or racing, the C6’s ability to handle heavy loads and big horsepower cemented its legacy.

Another clever addition was Borg-Warner’s flexible shift band, which wrapped evenly around the drum. Unlike traditional rigid shift bands that wore unevenly, this design ensured smooth, precise shifts and long-lasting performance.

The C6 in Action

Over its 30+ years in production (1966–1997), the C6 saw service in a wide range of vehicles. It was a go-to for Ford’s F-Series trucks, Broncos, Galaxies, Mustangs, and more. Off-road and 4×4 enthusiasts appreciated its compatibility with transfer cases like the NP205 and Borg-Warner 1356. Even military vehicles and industrial equipment relied on the C6’s rugged build.

Its versatility extended to gear ratios, with 2.46:1 in first, 1.46:1 in second, and a direct 1:1 in third. It also featured SelectShift, allowing drivers to manually hold gears—an innovative touch in the 1960s and 70s.

Strengths and Limitations

The C6’s legendary toughness is also its biggest selling point for restorers and builders. Its one-piece aluminum case eliminates many of the weak points found in earlier transmissions, making it virtually leak-proof and highly durable. It’s also supported by a robust aftermarket, with options for shift kits, heavy-duty clutches, and performance torque converters.

However, the C6 isn’t perfect. Its lack of an overdrive gear makes it less fuel-efficient at highway speeds, and its heavier weight can be a drawback for lighter builds. While it’s simple and reliable, it also absorbs more power compared to modern automatics, slightly reducing efficiency.

Maintenance and Upgrades

The C6’s longevity hinges on proper maintenance. Regular fluid changes (using Type F fluid) and filter replacements will keep it shifting smoothly for decades. Builders looking for extra performance can choose from upgrades like high-stall converters, deep pans for better cooling, and steel gears for extreme horsepower applications.

For those seeking more modern alternatives, transmissions like the AOD or E4OD offer overdrive for better highway cruising, though they can’t match the C6’s bulletproof reliability.

The Bottom Line

The Ford C6 transmission is a legend for a reason. Its robust design, broad application range, and old-school simplicity make it a top choice for anyone restoring a classic Ford or tackling a performance build. While newer automatics may offer more gears and efficiency, the C6 remains a symbol of durability and dependability—a true workhorse that refuses to quit.

Got a favorite C6 story or an upgrade recommendation? Share it in the comments.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Ah, the trusty distributor—a marvel of engineering and a test of patience for classic car enthusiasts everywhere. If you’ve wrestled with a stubborn one on a Ford 351 Windsor, you know the mix of genius design and head-scratching frustration these little components bring. That’s the topic we dove into in this week’s video on Bullnose Garage.

The distributor is the ignition system’s old-school brain. Its job? Deliver high-voltage spark to the right cylinder at the right time. Fire too early, and you’ve got an engine pinging like an arcade game. Too late? You’re left with a wheezing, underperforming motor. On the 351 Windsor, this critical part is mechanically driven by the camshaft and even powers the oil pump. Despite its straightforward design, decades of heat, grime, and neglect can weld the aluminum distributor housing to the cast-iron block—a frustrating reality for many of us working on older engines.

In the video, we cover every step of diagnosing, loosening, and finally removing a seized distributor. Here’s a quick rundown of the highlights:

The Basics of a 351 Windsor Distributor

Before jumping into the teardown, we explain the distributor’s key components:

• The Cap: Houses the connections for the spark plug wires and coil.
• The Rotor: Spins inside the cap, striking contacts to send sparks to the plugs.
• The Shaft and Gear: Extends into the engine, meshing with the camshaft to stay in sync.
• Oil Pump Drive Connection: A critical link to keep oil circulating.

This design is brilliant in its simplicity, but as many classic truck owners will attest, the bond between aluminum and cast iron—aggravated by oxidation—can turn routine maintenance into a battle of wills.

The Struggle: Removing a Stuck Distributor

Let’s face it: some distributors just don’t want to budge. In the video, we go through several strategies:

1. Start Simple: Apply penetrating oil liberally (a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF works wonders). Let it soak overnight if possible.
2. Tap and Wiggle: Use a rubber mallet to tap around the base, then try rotating the distributor while applying upward pressure.
3. Pry with Care: Carefully use a pry bar for extra leverage. Position it at a safe spot under the distributor base to avoid damaging the housing.
4. Heat It Up: A heat gun or propane torch can expand the cast iron around the aluminum distributor, breaking the corrosion’s grip.
5. Chill It Down: Alternatively, rapid cooling (via freeze spray or an inverted can of compressed air) can crack stubborn bonds.

When All Else Fails

If these tricks don’t work, more drastic measures might be necessary, such as using a slide hammer or even partially disassembling the engine to tap the distributor free from below. These methods aren’t for the faint of heart but can save the day when nothing else works.

Lessons Learned

Once you’ve freed the distributor, the hard part’s over—but don’t skip the cleanup. We stress the importance of thoroughly cleaning the distributor bore and applying a dab of anti-seize to the shaft before reinstalling. Trust me, future you will thank you.

Looking Ahead

Getting this distributor out was a victory in itself, but it’s just one step in the journey to rebuilding my 351 Windsor. With the distributor and fuel rails removed, we’re ready to pull the engine for its transformation into a stroked 408ci powerhouse. If you’re as excited about this build as I am, be sure to subscribe to the channel for updates.

Got your own distributor horror story or a go-to trick for stuck components? Share it in the comments—I’d love to hear it!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Are you leaving horsepower on the table? If you’re chasing more power and efficiency from your ride, one component might be holding you back: your catalytic converter. In my latest video on Bullnose Garage, I dive deep into the world of catalytic converters, exploring everything from OEM options to high-flow catalytic converters, and even the controversial choice of running a catless exhaust system.

Not sure where to start? Let’s take a look.

What’s the Deal with Catalytic Converters?

Catalytic converters, or “cats,” are an essential part of your vehicle’s exhaust system. They use metals like platinum, palladium, and rhodium to reduce harmful emissions, turning toxic gases like carbon monoxide into less harmful ones like carbon dioxide and water vapor. Sounds great, right? Except OEM catalytic converters weren’t exactly designed with performance in mind.

That’s where high-flow cats come in. These performance-focused units let more exhaust pass through, reducing back pressure and allowing your engine to breathe freely. Think of it like sipping a thick milkshake through a wide straw instead of a tiny one—it’s just more efficient. If your ride is running aftermarket headers, a performance camshaft, or a stroker motor (like the 408 ci Windsor build I’m working on), high-flow cats can make a noticeable difference.

Why Consider High-Flow Cats?

Let’s face it: stock catalytic converters are all about meeting emissions standards and keeping costs low. They’re not exactly performance-friendly. High-flow catalytic converters, on the other hand, are optimized for better airflow and increased power. They strike a balance between emissions control and performance, making them a smart choice for anyone looking to unlock the full potential of their build.

In the video, I take a close look at a set of 3-inch high-flow catalytic converters sent to me by Dynovox. Right out of the box, these units impressed me with their stainless steel construction, open-cell design, and overall build quality. They’re designed to handle higher exhaust temperatures and provide better flow compared to OEM options. But are they right for everyone? That’s where things get interesting.

The Legal Side of Things

High-flow catalytic converters come with their own set of challenges—mainly around legality. Most high-flow cats, including the ones I reviewed from Dynovox, aren’t CARB compliant. That means they don’t meet the strict emissions standards required in states like California, New York, Maine, and Colorado. For those of us in less restrictive states, like my home state of New Mexico, they’re fair game. But if you’re planning to sell your vehicle or drive through a state with tighter rules, this is something to keep in mind.

And what about going catless? Sure, ditching catalytic converters entirely might seem like the ultimate power play. No restriction, no compromise, right? But going catless is illegal for street use in most places, not to mention bad for the environment. It can also cause check engine lights and issues with your ECU. High-flow cats, on the other hand, offer a solid middle ground—better performance without fully throwing emissions out the window.

How Do They Stack Up?

In the video, I walk you through the differences between OEM, high-flow, and catless exhaust setups. Each has its pros and cons, but high-flow catalytic converters really shine in modified vehicles with higher-than-stock airflow requirements. If your ride is a daily driver or weekend grocery-getter, you probably won’t see much benefit. But if you’re pushing your build to its limits, high-flow cats could be just what you need to maximize performance.

Dynovox Black Friday Sale

If you’re considering an upgrade, now’s the perfect time to act. Dynovox is running a Black Friday sale from November 27 through December 2, with up to 50% off select products. Whether you’re looking for high-flow catalytic converters, headers, or other performance exhaust components, this sale is worth checking out. Visit https://DynovoxParts.com/?ref=bngarage for details. If you’re not catching the Black Friday event, use my code “BNGarage” for 15% off all the time!

What’s Your Take?

Are high-flow cats in your future? Or are you sticking with your trusty OEM setup? Maybe you’re tempted to ditch emissions entirely and go catless. Either way, I’d love to hear your thoughts. Watch the video for a full breakdown of the options, then drop a comment there to let me know where you stand.

Don’t forget to like, subscribe, and share if you found this helpful. Supporting small channels like mine makes all the difference!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

If you’re an off-road enthusiast or a classic truck owner, you’ve likely come across the name Dana 44. This iconic axle has been a top choice for decades, offering a blend of toughness and adaptability that’s hard to beat. To showcase the ins and outs of this versatile axle, I created a comprehensive video that breaks down the solid axle version and Ford’s Twin Traction Beam (TTB) setup. Here’s a sneak peek into what I cover in the video and why the Dana 44 is a mainstay in the off-roading world.

A Little History and Background

The Dana 44 dates back to the 1940s, engineered by the Dana Corporation as a flexible platform that could be adapted for both front and rear axle applications. In my video, I dive into why this axle earned its reputation as a workhorse. The solid Dana 44 is known for its strength, high-pinion design, and off-road capability, while the TTB version, unique to Ford, balances smoother on-road driving with decent trail capability.

What Makes the Solid Dana 44 a Go-To Choice?

In the video, I explore how the solid Dana 44 fits into classic Ford trucks and other 4x4s. It’s built tough, commonly paired with leaf springs and features a high-pinion design for better ground clearance and reduced driveshaft angles. For moderate trail use and off-roading, the solid Dana 44 is a reliable choice that’s easy to work on and customize. Plus, with aftermarket support for upgrades like chromoly shafts, lockers, and reinforced knuckles, it’s no wonder this axle is loved by enthusiasts.

Enter the TTB Dana 44

But what about Ford’s TTB Dana 44? My video explains how this axle variant, introduced in 1980, revolutionized the game for F-150s and Broncos by combining an independent front suspension layout with off-road functionality. While the TTB doesn’t have the brute strength of a solid axle, it offers a more comfortable ride on pavement, making it ideal for trucks that see both on-road and trail action. However, lifting the TTB requires more finesse due to its complex geometry—a point I touch on for those considering a build with this setup.

Strengths, Weaknesses, and Upgrades

Both the solid and TTB versions of the Dana 44 have their pros and cons. The solid Dana 44 is your go-to for straightforward strength and trail readiness, while the TTB offers comfort and versatility for mixed driving conditions. I also talk about common upgrades you can make to both axles, from upgraded U-joints and trusses for the TTB to heavy-duty hubs and skid plates for the solid version.

Why It’s Worth Watching

Whether you’re trying to decide between the two for your next project or just want to learn more about what’s under your truck, this video lays it all out. I cover everything from the differences in design to which one might be better for your specific needs—because understanding your axle can be the key to a smoother, stronger ride.

Closing Thoughts:

Catch the full breakdown in the video to see how the solid and TTB Dana 44s stack up and find out which might be best for your classic Ford build or off-road adventure.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Upgrading My Truck’s Stereo System: A $15 Project That Packs a Punch

Hey folks, Ed here! Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. This weekend, I’m diving into a fun little project: upgrading the stereo system in my truck. I’ve got a brand new head unit that only cost me $15 from Amazon, and it’s supposed to have that retro look with Bluetooth and hands-free calling. But let’s be honest, for that price, I’m not sure what to expect!

When I unboxed this head unit, I was surprised by how lightweight it was—there’s hardly anything to it! The real challenge is to see if this budget-friendly option can actually deliver on its promises. Alongside the head unit, I’ve got a rather pricey dual voice coil speaker designed for classic vehicles like mine, which cost around $80 to $90. This speaker integrates both left and right channels into a single dash speaker setup, which is crucial for a vehicle with limited space for audio upgrades.

The plan is simple: get this head unit installed and see if I can finally enjoy some Pandora while cruising around. I also have a set of basic JVC 6.5-inch speakers that will be going in. They might not be top-of-the-line, but they should do the job until I’m ready to invest in a serious audio system with subwoofers and amplifiers.

The Installation Process

Starting off, I need to remove the door panel. It’s a straightforward process—just a couple of screws and some clips to pop off. If you have an older truck like mine, I highly recommend picking up some replacement clips because they tend to break easily during removal. Trust me, nothing’s worse than a rattling door panel!

Once I got the door panel off, I took a look at the existing speaker setup. The current speakers weren’t too bad, but I wanted something better. Swapping out speakers is generally a simple task: just match the positive and negative wires and you’re good to go. If you’re doing a straightforward replacement like I am, there’s really not much to it.

However, as I got deeper into the project, I realized the previous owner had made some modifications that left me with a bit of a wiring mess. They had cut some speaker wires and disconnected the top speaker entirely. This meant I had to do some troubleshooting and potentially rewire everything back to the way it should be.

Troubleshooting the Wiring

It’s not uncommon to run into surprises when working on older vehicles. I discovered that not only had some wires been cut, but the harness that should have been there was missing entirely. Instead of getting frustrated, I decided to take it as a learning opportunity. If you’re ever doing a similar project, always remember: never just cut wires—invest in a proper harness adapter to save yourself a lot of hassle later on.

Once I sorted out the wiring mess, I was ready to install the new speaker. It’s a nice dual voice coil unit, which should give me a better audio experience overall. Although it may not provide the full stereo effect, it should help create a fuller sound when paired with the new head unit.

Testing and Results

After everything was wired up and secured, it was time to test the system. I was pleasantly surprised—despite some dimming issues on the display, the sound quality exceeded my expectations for such a budget-friendly setup. I was able to connect my phone via Bluetooth, making hands-free calling a breeze.

All in all, for $15 on the head unit and $25 on the speakers, I’d say this weekend project was a success. It’s a significant upgrade from the stock setup, and I’m thrilled to finally have Bluetooth in my truck!

I hope you enjoyed this little journey into my weekend project. If you have any questions, comments, or thoughts, feel free to drop them below. Thanks for tuning in, and I’ll see you next time!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage! Today, we’re diving into one of Ford’s most infamous V8 engines—the massive 460 big block. If you’re into power, torque, and classic muscle, this video is for you. The 460 isn’t your typical V8—it’s a 7.5-liter powerhouse that leaves smaller engines in the dust. Originally built in 1968 for heavy-duty work, this engine has powered everything from Ford’s F-Series trucks to luxury Lincolns, motorhomes, and beyond.

In the video, we get hands-on with the 460, breaking down its specs, design, and history, and talking about why it’s still a favorite for engine builders today. Whether you’re curious about its raw stock form or interested in beefing it up with mods, this video covers it all. The 460 may have retired in 1997, but it’s still roaring in custom builds and restoration projects, delivering incredible low-end torque that can pull just about anything.

What Makes the Ford 460 So Special?

The Ford 460 is all about torque. Unlike small blocks like the 302 or 351 Windsor that love to rev high, the 460 was designed to crank out serious pulling power at lower RPMs. Think of it as the strongman of the V8 world, with enough brute force to haul heavy loads and make muscle cars roar. Early versions of the 460 packed up to 365 horsepower and 485 lb-ft of torque, which is impressive even by today’s standards. Emissions regulations slowed it down a bit in the late ‘70s, but with the right mods, you can easily bring back that factory muscle—and then some.

Modding the 460: Taking It to the Next Level

In the video, I also cover some popular modifications for anyone looking to squeeze every last drop of performance out of their 460. From aluminum heads and stroker kits to fuel injection conversions, there are endless ways to bring this big block into modern times. Swapping out the stock cast-iron heads for lightweight aluminum ones from brands like Edelbrock can improve airflow, cut weight, and boost horsepower—making a night-and-day difference if you’re going for more than stock performance.

If you’re really serious, you might consider a stroker kit. This takes the 460’s 7.5 liters of displacement and cranks it up to 514 cubic inches or more, giving you even more torque to play with. And for those looking for a smoother, more efficient ride, fuel injection is a game-changer, especially when paired with a modern ECU that lets you fine-tune the engine for performance and fuel economy.

Why the Ford 460 Still Matters

At the end of the day, the Ford 460 isn’t just a relic—it’s a legend with staying power. Even decades after it left the production line, this engine is still a top choice for classic truck restorations, muscle cars, and custom hot rods. If you’re curious about what makes the 460 such an icon, or thinking about getting your hands on one for a project, check out the video for the full lowdown on Ford’s big block masterpiece.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.