Category Bullnose Garage

Are you leaving horsepower on the table? If you’re chasing more power and efficiency from your ride, one component might be holding you back: your catalytic converter. In my latest video on Bullnose Garage, I dive deep into the world of catalytic converters, exploring everything from OEM options to high-flow catalytic converters, and even the controversial choice of running a catless exhaust system.

Not sure where to start? Let’s take a look.

What’s the Deal with Catalytic Converters?

Catalytic converters, or “cats,” are an essential part of your vehicle’s exhaust system. They use metals like platinum, palladium, and rhodium to reduce harmful emissions, turning toxic gases like carbon monoxide into less harmful ones like carbon dioxide and water vapor. Sounds great, right? Except OEM catalytic converters weren’t exactly designed with performance in mind.

That’s where high-flow cats come in. These performance-focused units let more exhaust pass through, reducing back pressure and allowing your engine to breathe freely. Think of it like sipping a thick milkshake through a wide straw instead of a tiny one—it’s just more efficient. If your ride is running aftermarket headers, a performance camshaft, or a stroker motor (like the 408 ci Windsor build I’m working on), high-flow cats can make a noticeable difference.

Why Consider High-Flow Cats?

Let’s face it: stock catalytic converters are all about meeting emissions standards and keeping costs low. They’re not exactly performance-friendly. High-flow catalytic converters, on the other hand, are optimized for better airflow and increased power. They strike a balance between emissions control and performance, making them a smart choice for anyone looking to unlock the full potential of their build.

In the video, I take a close look at a set of 3-inch high-flow catalytic converters sent to me by Dynovox. Right out of the box, these units impressed me with their stainless steel construction, open-cell design, and overall build quality. They’re designed to handle higher exhaust temperatures and provide better flow compared to OEM options. But are they right for everyone? That’s where things get interesting.

The Legal Side of Things

High-flow catalytic converters come with their own set of challenges—mainly around legality. Most high-flow cats, including the ones I reviewed from Dynovox, aren’t CARB compliant. That means they don’t meet the strict emissions standards required in states like California, New York, Maine, and Colorado. For those of us in less restrictive states, like my home state of New Mexico, they’re fair game. But if you’re planning to sell your vehicle or drive through a state with tighter rules, this is something to keep in mind.

And what about going catless? Sure, ditching catalytic converters entirely might seem like the ultimate power play. No restriction, no compromise, right? But going catless is illegal for street use in most places, not to mention bad for the environment. It can also cause check engine lights and issues with your ECU. High-flow cats, on the other hand, offer a solid middle ground—better performance without fully throwing emissions out the window.

How Do They Stack Up?

In the video, I walk you through the differences between OEM, high-flow, and catless exhaust setups. Each has its pros and cons, but high-flow catalytic converters really shine in modified vehicles with higher-than-stock airflow requirements. If your ride is a daily driver or weekend grocery-getter, you probably won’t see much benefit. But if you’re pushing your build to its limits, high-flow cats could be just what you need to maximize performance.

Dynovox Black Friday Sale

If you’re considering an upgrade, now’s the perfect time to act. Dynovox is running a Black Friday sale from November 27 through December 2, with up to 50% off select products. Whether you’re looking for high-flow catalytic converters, headers, or other performance exhaust components, this sale is worth checking out. Visit https://DynovoxParts.com/?ref=bngarage for details. If you’re not catching the Black Friday event, use my code “BNGarage” for 15% off all the time!

What’s Your Take?

Are high-flow cats in your future? Or are you sticking with your trusty OEM setup? Maybe you’re tempted to ditch emissions entirely and go catless. Either way, I’d love to hear your thoughts. Watch the video for a full breakdown of the options, then drop a comment there to let me know where you stand.

Don’t forget to like, subscribe, and share if you found this helpful. Supporting small channels like mine makes all the difference!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

If you’re an off-road enthusiast or a classic truck owner, you’ve likely come across the name Dana 44. This iconic axle has been a top choice for decades, offering a blend of toughness and adaptability that’s hard to beat. To showcase the ins and outs of this versatile axle, I created a comprehensive video that breaks down the solid axle version and Ford’s Twin Traction Beam (TTB) setup. Here’s a sneak peek into what I cover in the video and why the Dana 44 is a mainstay in the off-roading world.

A Little History and Background

The Dana 44 dates back to the 1940s, engineered by the Dana Corporation as a flexible platform that could be adapted for both front and rear axle applications. In my video, I dive into why this axle earned its reputation as a workhorse. The solid Dana 44 is known for its strength, high-pinion design, and off-road capability, while the TTB version, unique to Ford, balances smoother on-road driving with decent trail capability.

What Makes the Solid Dana 44 a Go-To Choice?

In the video, I explore how the solid Dana 44 fits into classic Ford trucks and other 4x4s. It’s built tough, commonly paired with leaf springs and features a high-pinion design for better ground clearance and reduced driveshaft angles. For moderate trail use and off-roading, the solid Dana 44 is a reliable choice that’s easy to work on and customize. Plus, with aftermarket support for upgrades like chromoly shafts, lockers, and reinforced knuckles, it’s no wonder this axle is loved by enthusiasts.

Enter the TTB Dana 44

But what about Ford’s TTB Dana 44? My video explains how this axle variant, introduced in 1980, revolutionized the game for F-150s and Broncos by combining an independent front suspension layout with off-road functionality. While the TTB doesn’t have the brute strength of a solid axle, it offers a more comfortable ride on pavement, making it ideal for trucks that see both on-road and trail action. However, lifting the TTB requires more finesse due to its complex geometry—a point I touch on for those considering a build with this setup.

Strengths, Weaknesses, and Upgrades

Both the solid and TTB versions of the Dana 44 have their pros and cons. The solid Dana 44 is your go-to for straightforward strength and trail readiness, while the TTB offers comfort and versatility for mixed driving conditions. I also talk about common upgrades you can make to both axles, from upgraded U-joints and trusses for the TTB to heavy-duty hubs and skid plates for the solid version.

Why It’s Worth Watching

Whether you’re trying to decide between the two for your next project or just want to learn more about what’s under your truck, this video lays it all out. I cover everything from the differences in design to which one might be better for your specific needs—because understanding your axle can be the key to a smoother, stronger ride.

Closing Thoughts:

Catch the full breakdown in the video to see how the solid and TTB Dana 44s stack up and find out which might be best for your classic Ford build or off-road adventure.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Upgrading My Truck’s Stereo System: A $15 Project That Packs a Punch

Hey folks, Ed here! Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. This weekend, I’m diving into a fun little project: upgrading the stereo system in my truck. I’ve got a brand new head unit that only cost me $15 from Amazon, and it’s supposed to have that retro look with Bluetooth and hands-free calling. But let’s be honest, for that price, I’m not sure what to expect!

When I unboxed this head unit, I was surprised by how lightweight it was—there’s hardly anything to it! The real challenge is to see if this budget-friendly option can actually deliver on its promises. Alongside the head unit, I’ve got a rather pricey dual voice coil speaker designed for classic vehicles like mine, which cost around $80 to $90. This speaker integrates both left and right channels into a single dash speaker setup, which is crucial for a vehicle with limited space for audio upgrades.

The plan is simple: get this head unit installed and see if I can finally enjoy some Pandora while cruising around. I also have a set of basic JVC 6.5-inch speakers that will be going in. They might not be top-of-the-line, but they should do the job until I’m ready to invest in a serious audio system with subwoofers and amplifiers.

The Installation Process

Starting off, I need to remove the door panel. It’s a straightforward process—just a couple of screws and some clips to pop off. If you have an older truck like mine, I highly recommend picking up some replacement clips because they tend to break easily during removal. Trust me, nothing’s worse than a rattling door panel!

Once I got the door panel off, I took a look at the existing speaker setup. The current speakers weren’t too bad, but I wanted something better. Swapping out speakers is generally a simple task: just match the positive and negative wires and you’re good to go. If you’re doing a straightforward replacement like I am, there’s really not much to it.

However, as I got deeper into the project, I realized the previous owner had made some modifications that left me with a bit of a wiring mess. They had cut some speaker wires and disconnected the top speaker entirely. This meant I had to do some troubleshooting and potentially rewire everything back to the way it should be.

Troubleshooting the Wiring

It’s not uncommon to run into surprises when working on older vehicles. I discovered that not only had some wires been cut, but the harness that should have been there was missing entirely. Instead of getting frustrated, I decided to take it as a learning opportunity. If you’re ever doing a similar project, always remember: never just cut wires—invest in a proper harness adapter to save yourself a lot of hassle later on.

Once I sorted out the wiring mess, I was ready to install the new speaker. It’s a nice dual voice coil unit, which should give me a better audio experience overall. Although it may not provide the full stereo effect, it should help create a fuller sound when paired with the new head unit.

Testing and Results

After everything was wired up and secured, it was time to test the system. I was pleasantly surprised—despite some dimming issues on the display, the sound quality exceeded my expectations for such a budget-friendly setup. I was able to connect my phone via Bluetooth, making hands-free calling a breeze.

All in all, for $15 on the head unit and $25 on the speakers, I’d say this weekend project was a success. It’s a significant upgrade from the stock setup, and I’m thrilled to finally have Bluetooth in my truck!

I hope you enjoyed this little journey into my weekend project. If you have any questions, comments, or thoughts, feel free to drop them below. Thanks for tuning in, and I’ll see you next time!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage! Today, we’re diving into one of Ford’s most infamous V8 engines—the massive 460 big block. If you’re into power, torque, and classic muscle, this video is for you. The 460 isn’t your typical V8—it’s a 7.5-liter powerhouse that leaves smaller engines in the dust. Originally built in 1968 for heavy-duty work, this engine has powered everything from Ford’s F-Series trucks to luxury Lincolns, motorhomes, and beyond.

In the video, we get hands-on with the 460, breaking down its specs, design, and history, and talking about why it’s still a favorite for engine builders today. Whether you’re curious about its raw stock form or interested in beefing it up with mods, this video covers it all. The 460 may have retired in 1997, but it’s still roaring in custom builds and restoration projects, delivering incredible low-end torque that can pull just about anything.

What Makes the Ford 460 So Special?

The Ford 460 is all about torque. Unlike small blocks like the 302 or 351 Windsor that love to rev high, the 460 was designed to crank out serious pulling power at lower RPMs. Think of it as the strongman of the V8 world, with enough brute force to haul heavy loads and make muscle cars roar. Early versions of the 460 packed up to 365 horsepower and 485 lb-ft of torque, which is impressive even by today’s standards. Emissions regulations slowed it down a bit in the late ‘70s, but with the right mods, you can easily bring back that factory muscle—and then some.

Modding the 460: Taking It to the Next Level

In the video, I also cover some popular modifications for anyone looking to squeeze every last drop of performance out of their 460. From aluminum heads and stroker kits to fuel injection conversions, there are endless ways to bring this big block into modern times. Swapping out the stock cast-iron heads for lightweight aluminum ones from brands like Edelbrock can improve airflow, cut weight, and boost horsepower—making a night-and-day difference if you’re going for more than stock performance.

If you’re really serious, you might consider a stroker kit. This takes the 460’s 7.5 liters of displacement and cranks it up to 514 cubic inches or more, giving you even more torque to play with. And for those looking for a smoother, more efficient ride, fuel injection is a game-changer, especially when paired with a modern ECU that lets you fine-tune the engine for performance and fuel economy.

Why the Ford 460 Still Matters

At the end of the day, the Ford 460 isn’t just a relic—it’s a legend with staying power. Even decades after it left the production line, this engine is still a top choice for classic truck restorations, muscle cars, and custom hot rods. If you’re curious about what makes the 460 such an icon, or thinking about getting your hands on one for a project, check out the video for the full lowdown on Ford’s big block masterpiece.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Ever found yourself staring at a non-running vehicle or heavy chassis, wondering how on earth you’re going to get it into your garage alone? That’s exactly the pickle I found myself in recently. I’ve got this hefty chassis sitting outside, and pushing it uphill into my garage just isn’t happening—especially with that slight incline mocking me every time I look at it.

The Dilemma

Here’s the situation: I’ve got a heavy, non-operational chassis that needs to move from point A (outside) to point B (inside my garage). Towing it with another vehicle isn’t an option due to space constraints and the inability to get a tow vehicle inside the garage. Plus, I’m a one-man show here. Sure, I could ask my wife for help, but she’s juggling the kids, and I prefer tackling these challenges solo when I can.

The Lightbulb Moment

So, how do I, a lone DIY enthusiast, move this beast into the garage without pulling a muscle or two? After some brainstorming—and maybe a bit of head-scratching—I came up with an ingenious solution involving a bolt-on hitch receiver, some concrete anchors, and a trusty come-along winch.

My DIY Solution: Installing a Floor-Mounted Hitch Receiver

I decided to install a hitch receiver directly into my garage floor. This would serve as a solid anchor point for a come-along, allowing me to pull the chassis into the garage smoothly.

Materials I Used:

• Hitch Receiver: https://amzn.to/3YoGlOx
• Shackle Hitch: https://amzn.to/3BKSjcx
• Drop-in Concrete Anchors: https://amzn.to/3Yr0Dav
• Drill Bit: https://amzn.to/3Nt9UbG
• Set Screws (plug screws): https://amzn.to/4f5qTwj
• Screw Bolts: https://amzn.to/4dPEqqM
• Washers: https://amzn.to/4dPEruQ
• Rock Hard Water Putty: https://amzn.to/4eX7IVK

Step-by-Step Installation

1. Choosing the Spot

I picked a spot at the back of my garage where the hitch wouldn’t be a tripping hazard—right next to the back wall and close to an outlet (just in case I upgrade to an electric winch later).

2. Marking and Drilling Holes

• Placed the hitch receiver on the floor as a template.
• Marked the bolt hole locations.
• Used a hammer drill with a masonry bit to drill into the concrete. (Pro tip: a corded hammer drill would’ve been faster, but my cordless one did the job.)

3. Installing the Concrete Anchors

• Inserted the wedge anchors into the holes.
• Hammered them down until they were flush and snug.
• Checked to make sure they didn’t move or spin.

4. Mounting the Hitch Receiver

• Bolted the hitch receiver to the floor using the anchors.
• Ensured everything was tight and secure.
• Attached the shackle hitch mount.

5. Finishing Touches

I’m a bit of a perfectionist, so I wasn’t going to leave those anchor holes looking rough. I mixed up some rock hard water putty and filled in the gaps around the anchors. Once it dried, I sanded it down and painted over it to match the garage floor. Now, when the hitch isn’t in use, I can remove it, and the floor is flush—no tripping hazards here!

Putting It to the Test

With the hitch receiver installed and the come-along connected, it was the moment of truth. I started cranking, and slowly but surely, the chassis began to move up the incline and into the garage. Success!

Why This Setup Rocks

• Solo Operation: I didn’t need to bother anyone for help.
• Cost-Effective: Used materials that are readily available and not overly expensive.
• Safe and Controlled: Having a secure anchor point made the process smooth and reduced the risk of accidents.
• Versatile: This setup isn’t just for this one chassis. I’ll be pulling engines and other heavy equipment in the future, and this anchor point will come in handy.

Thinking Ahead: Upgrading to an Electric Winch

While the come-along works great, I’m considering mounting a 12V electric winch on a hitch receiver tray in the future. With an outlet nearby, I could power the winch and make the process even easier.

Final Thoughts

This project was all about finding a practical solution to a common problem. If you’ve ever been in a similar situation, I hope my experience gives you some ideas. It’s amazing what a little ingenuity and some basic tools can accomplish.

Check Out the Full Process

Want to see the step-by-step and how it all came together? Watch my full walkthrough on YouTube: Moving a Heavy Chassis into My Garage Solo.

Join the Conversation

Have you tried something similar? Think I’m crazy for drilling into my garage floor? Drop a comment below or on the video—I’d love to hear your thoughts and any tips you might have.

By sharing my DIY adventures, I hope to help fellow enthusiasts tackle their own projects with confidence. Remember, with a bit of creativity, no challenge is too big to handle solo!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

If you’re thinking about upgrading your Ford truck with a 5-speed manual transmission, the ZF5 is one of the best options out there. In this video, I break down everything you need to know about the ZF5, including the differences between the S5-42 and S5-47, compatibility with different engines, and how to handle a ZF5 swap into your truck.

What Makes the ZF5 Special?

The ZF5 is a 5-speed manual that came in Ford trucks from the late ‘80s through the ‘90s. It was built to handle tough jobs like towing and off-roading, and its 5th gear overdrive makes highway cruising a lot smoother compared to older 4-speed transmissions like the NP435. Whether you’re restoring a Ford F-250 or F-350, or you’re working on a Ford Bronco, the ZF5 is a solid option.

The Difference Between the S5-42 vs S5-47

There are two main versions of the ZF5: the S5-42 and the S5-47. The S5-42, made from 1987 to 1994, handles up to 420 lb-ft of torque. It’s great for daily driving and moderate builds. The S5-47, from 1995 to 1998, can take up to 470 lb-ft, making it the better option for heavier-duty trucks and more powerful engines.

Which Ford Trucks Came With a ZF5?

The ZF5 was found in:

• Ford F-250 (1987-1997)
• Ford F-350 (1987-1998)
• Ford Bronco (1987-1996)
• Ford E-Series Vans (1988-1996)

Each truck had different bellhousing patterns – small block, big block, or diesel – so if you’re planning a ZF5 swap, make sure the transmission matches your engine.

Why Choose a ZF5?

So why would you go for the ZF5? It’s tough, reliable, and gives you that 5th gear overdrive, which is a huge improvement for highway driving. Whether you’re towing, off-roading, or just want something more durable, the ZF5 is a great fit for most Ford trucks. And because it’s so versatile, you can pair it with everything from a 5.0L Windsor to a 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel.

Thinking About a ZF5 Swap?

If you’re planning a ZF5 swap, there are a few things to keep in mind:

• 4×4 vs. 4×2: These configurations are not interchangeable, so make sure you get the right one for your drivetrain.
• Driveshaft Modifications: You might need to modify your driveshaft for the ZF5 to fit properly.
• Crossmember Adjustments: Depending on your truck, you may also need to adjust the crossmember to get everything lined up.

Common Issues with the ZF5

Like any transmission, the ZF5 has a few common issues, but they’re generally easy to fix. Synchro wear on 2nd and 3rd gears can make shifting tricky, but regular maintenance can help. Another issue to watch out for is input shaft bearing noise, which can lead to whining under load. And finally, shift fork wear can cause poor gear engagement over time, but replacing them during a rebuild will keep your ZF5 running smoothly.

Pricing and Availability

A used ZF5 transmission usually costs between $400 and $1,200, depending on condition and configuration. If you want a rebuilt ZF5, expect to pay around $1,200 to $3,000. Rebuild kits typically range from $400 to $600 if you’re planning to do it yourself.

Conclusion

In the end, the ZF5 transmission is a fantastic option for anyone looking to upgrade their Ford truck. Whether you’re going with the S5-42 for a lighter build or the S5-47 for heavy-duty use, the ZF5 delivers the strength and reliability you need. Make sure to check out the video for a full breakdown and all the tips you need to know before starting your own ZF5 swap.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.