Category Bullnose Garage

Ever been sitting at a stoplight in your seemingly mild manner V8 when some joker in a new fangled chrome plated Bluetooth infested tow mirror flexing pavement princess of over compensation pulls up and grins like he knows what’s up? You ever want to smoke that guy? Ever want to make him tinkle just a little before you do? Then you, my friend, need some cutouts.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and if you’ve never heard of exhaust cutouts before, stick around because I’m about to use my new chicken chamber here to show you how these nifty devices can let you switch your exhaust note on a dime. And hey, big shout out to Dynox for sending me two 3-inch electric exhaust cutouts to play with before I hook them up to my upcoming 408 stroker build.

Now, before we get these out of my truck, we’re going to do some bench testing. And yes, that means I’m putting my homemade chicken chamber into action. Hello! All right, so let’s start with the basics. What the heck is an exhaust cutout? Well, in simple terms, it’s a controlled bypass valve that lets your exhaust gases take a short shortcut, bypassing your mufflers and catalytic converter when you want maximum volume and minimal restriction. When closed, your truck sounds normal. Hit the switch, instant unfiltered straight pipe chaos.

Now, cutouts are nothing new. Hot rodders have been messing with them for decades. Back in the early muscle car days, guys would literally unbolt sections of their exhaust at the track to let the engine breathe better. Before that, there were even factory exhaust bypass systems on some very old performance cars, but they were usually vacuum or manually operated. These days, thankfully, we’ve got electric cutouts with remotes, meaning you don’t even have to leave the driver’s seat to uncork the beast.

And this right here, this is a 3-inch electric cutout, meaning it runs off 12-volt power and uses a butterfly valve to open and close. It’s got a wireless remote, which is a hell of a lot better than crawling under your truck with a wrench like they used to do back in the day.

So let’s break down the mechanics. Inside this cutout is a butterfly valve, the same basic idea as using your throttle body. It’s a metal plate that rotates on a central shaft. When closed, it seals against the housing—well, mostly. More on that later. And when you hit the switch, a small electric motor turns the shaft, opening the valve and giving your exhaust gases a shortcut to freedom.

Now, here’s the thing: placement matters. If your goal is to commit the audio equivalent of a war crime and turn your neighbors into bitter husks hellbent on evicting you from their lives, then yeah, go ahead and slap that cutout before the catalytic converter. Open it up, and you’re basically running headers. It’s going to be loud, raw, and depending on your local laws, probably a little illegal. But if you actually like your neighbors and at least want to keep peace, then placing the cutout after the cat but before the muffler is usually the way to go. You’ll still get a deep aggressive tone just like you don’t have a muffler on it, but it won’t be quite as ear-splitting as open headers would be.

Now, if you wonder what the actual difference is, it comes down to two very different experiences. Putting the cutout before the catalytic converter means you’ll get the maximum noise with no restriction and zero filtration. If you want your truck to be as loud and free as possible, this is the way to do it. Like I said, it’s loud, raw, and will make your neighbors question their life choices. It may also give you a negligible horsepower boost and less back pressure depending on what cats you’re running.

On the other hand, placing the cutout after the cat gives you what I call controlled aggression. You’ll still bypass the muffler, so you get a deep aggressive rumble, but the cat will take a little bit of the edge off, just enough to make it slightly less of a ‘sir, we need to have a talk’ moment when a cop pulls up behind you. You’re still running cats this way, though, so any restriction that they introduce will still be part of the system when you open these up.

For this demonstration, I’ve got my cutout placed before the cat so we can actually hear the difference when we flip the switch. But trust me, if you put one of these before the cat, you’re basically summoning demons every time you hit the gas. If you’re putting one of these in, though, it’s very probably what you’re going for anyway, so far be it for me to tell you your business.

Now, obviously, my shop vac exhaust stimulator isn’t putting out the same kind of flow as my 408 stroker will, but it still gives us a great way to visualize how the cutout works and, more importantly, how airflow and sound change when we flip the switch.

Now let’s talk real-world pros and cons of running electric cutouts because while they might seem like the perfect solution to all your exhaust tone problems, they do come with their own set of tradeoffs. First off, the pros. I mean, the biggest one is obviously instant volume control. You’re literally flipping a switch to go from quiet and respectable to full-blown hooligan mode in an instant. And there’s also a potential performance gain at high RPM since a free or flowing exhaust can reduce back pressure, though whether that translates into actual measurable horsepower really depends on your system.

And let’s be real, half the fun of having cutouts isn’t about the power; it’s about the sheer joy of knowing you can unleash absolute chaos whenever you feel like it. You’re not stuck choosing between stock sound and straight pipes; you get both. That’s the kind of flexibility that makes these things a lot of fun and so appealing.

But of course, as with most things, it’s not all sunshine and horsepower. The first major downside: they all leak eventually. It’s not a matter of if, but a matter of when. Over time, heat cycles cause expansion and contraction, carbon builds up around the valve, and sooner or later, you’ll start hearing a faint ticking or hissing sound when the valve is supposed to be shut. Now, for some people, that’s not a big deal, and for others, especially if you’re trying to keep things quiet when the cutout is closed, it can be a deal breaker, especially if this is going in your daily driver.

This is really the main issue. These butterfly valves don’t always seal perfectly, and over time, they can start to let little leaks develop. Is that the end of the world? No, but it’s something to be aware of. Routine maintenance goes a long way in keeping them from turning into an annoying rattle factory. Just a quick blast of carb cleaner now and then can help keep the buildup under control. It’s not rocket science; just part of keeping your exhaust system happy and working the way you want it to. If you never clean the valve, carbon buildup could start making it harder to close all the way or even jam it up completely. This is why it’s a good idea to cycle the valve open and closed every now and then, even if you don’t plan on using it every day, like maybe every time you start it up in your driveway or something. I mean, depending on your neighbors, letting it sit in one position for months just lets grime settle in.

And let’s not forget about the motor itself. It’s exposed to dirt, moisture, and road grime, all of which can shorten its lifespan if you’re not careful. A little dielectric grease on the connectors and some basic shielding can go a long way in keeping it working properly. And of course, there’s the big elephant in the room: legality. Depending on where you live, opening that valve on a public road might be technically illegal, especially if you’re bypassing emissions equipment or violating noise ordinances. Some areas are more lenient than others, and let’s be honest, plenty of people run these things without ever having an issue. But if your town has a Karen who dials the cops every time she hears a leaf blower, you might want to keep that in mind before installing one.

Also, as a personal request from me, the old man of Bullnose Garage, respect your communities and don’t open these up in residential areas at night, guys. Be a good steward of your horsepower. This has been a public service announcement from Bullnose Garage.

All right, let’s fire this thing up and see what happens. And away we go! All right, guys, forgive my janky setup here in my messy workbench. I’ve been doing a lot of stuff in here, so anyway, you can see I got things just kind of hooked up through a couple of testing leads to a homemade 12-volt plug that goes to my bench tester, and that runs to the cord. And there’s the control box to the Dynox cutout over here. So in my grubby little paws, I have the remote control, and it’s pretty easy. You just hit the unlock button, and you can see the motor turns this shaft right here, which turns the butterfly valve on the inside. I’ll show you that in a minute, and it’s just like that—super, super simple.

So let me get you down here so you can see the butterfly valve in action. If you can see down inside of there, and I will open it up. There we go, super easy and simple.

All right, guys, now let’s see this action with the chicken chamber. We are going to see if opening this cutout makes those chickens any louder. Now keep in mind that this is a demonstration in my garage with a shop vac and some rubber chickens, so it may not make that much of a difference, but this is the first time I’ve done it, so I’m really curious to see. Okay, here we go. Let’s start our engines. All right, I’m going to open her up. That’s incredible! Listen to that—close, open, close. You can actually hear a difference.

Well, guys, bad news: it overheated and I blew my head gasket. All right, head gasket replaced, good to go. All right, so here’s a little experiment I set up to measure the actual airflow through the system. I’ve got an anemometer here to check how fast the air is moving, kind of like a wind speed gauge, but for our exhaust setup. First, we’re measuring airflow coming out of the muffler with the cutout completely closed. You can see it’s reading right about 12.3 mph, which isn’t too bad considering it’s a shop vac and it’s all being forced through the muffler’s internal baffles.

Now for the second test, I’ve blocked off the muffler entirely, forcing all the air to exit through the cutout. You think this would be the most direct path, right? But check this out: we’re only seeing about 9.5 mph of airflow. And finally, with the muffler unblocked and the cutout wide open, we’re getting around 5.3 mph to the cutout. So what’s going on here? At first, you’d expect the cutout to flow more because it’s basically a straight pipe with a flap, but airflow isn’t just about having an open hole; it’s about how efficiently the air can move through the system.

When we block the muffler, even though all the air had to go through the cutout, the design of the cutout itself, like the butterfly valve, the angle of a T-junction, and the turbulence around the edges created more restriction than I thought. The air doesn’t like making sharp turns, and even with the valve fully open, the flap and the shaft are still in the way, causing turbulence that slows things down. Now, with both the muffler and the cutout open, the airflow has two escape routes, so it splits between them. So while the cutouts give you that aggressive sound and reduced back pressure, under real driving conditions, they’re not a magical free flow hack. Airflow dynamics are a bit more complicated than that. Still, the sound difference? Oh yeah, that’s where the cutout really shines.

Also, keep in mind this is me goofing out of my garage with a shop vac and some rubber chickens. As you can see, the exhaust path is also a completely straight line, and the cutout is right before the cat, which is right before the muffler, and it’s a dryer vent, and there’s all kinds of stuff going on here. So real-world stuff is absolutely going to be different than this, but I still thought this was a really, really neat experiment.

Now, like I said, this setup is obviously not moving as much air as a real V8, but it’s a fun way to demonstrate how exhaust routing changes sound and flow when you bypass your muffler.

All right, guys, let’s take a quick look at just what comes in the box with this 3-inch Dynox cutout. Captain, you got your instruction manual here. It’s pretty simple; it just kind of tells you about the parts and pieces that all come in here. We’ve got our gaskets. Here’s our control module with our remotes, which is super handy. You can also wire these up to be switch operated, which is what I’m going to do when I do mine. I’m not a fan of the remote; I’d rather have a switch on the dash. It’s a little bit more positive for me—just got to flick it, and it comes on. I think that’s kind of neat, but the remotes are pretty cool if you don’t have to worry about wiring up a switch. I don’t mind doing that, so I’m going to do it the hard way. But yeah, that’s pretty cool.

This is the actual butterfly valve, which opens and closes. I will open that up and show you a little bit more about that in just a minute. This is the clamp that goes between the end of the exhaust port here and the rest of the cutout. Obviously, your bolts to clamp everything together and the flange, which is what meets with this part to this part here. And then this connects up to your butterfly valve and the rest of the cutout. And then obviously, this is the meat and potatoes here, which is the actual cutout pipe itself—again, 3 inches of stainless steel glory.

So that is what comes in the box. It’s actually real simple—not a lot of complicated pieces. The remotes make it pretty easy to use, so things never go back in the box the way they came out, which is absolutely typical for all this kind of stuff.

All right, so let’s talk a little bit about this guy here. This is your butterfly valve, and this is what does all the dirty work for these cutouts. It’s what opens up and closes. It’s also the part that’s going to cause you grief down the line when it gets clogged up with carbon or other bits and pieces, or this motor gets crammed up with gunk. Now, if you look at this unit here, you can see this is a rubberized coating on this motor. It’s actually like a little rubber boot that goes on here. Actually, I think I can probably pull it off and show you what’s going on inside of there. Yeah, yeah, pretty simple—just a simple motor there. It’s got that rubber boot on it, which is nice because that’ll help keep the elements out. I think when I install these on mine, I’m going to actually add even a little bit more protection to this than what’s already on here, just to keep it clean and free of gunk and debris.

So yeah, it’s pretty simple. Here you can see the sealing surface on either side, and it just plugs right into the control box. Let me take this off of my other one here. I already got it hooked up with a remote. I will plug that in, and let’s see if my remote works. There we go, pretty simple. Actually, the neat thing with these is that you can have it partially open or partially closed; you just have to make sure that you finish closing or finish opening it. Nothing complicated about that; it’s pretty simple. The trick with these is when you close them, make sure you close them all the way because if you just barely close them, it’s like right there. Okay, so there’s open, there’s closed, and I didn’t really close it all the way. It’s not completely sealed. If you hold it a little bit longer, that little bit around at the end that closes it and seals it up pretty nice. But again, it’s really just a matter of time before this guy ends up not sealing completely just because of carbon buildup and stuff around the edges, right? So you just want to make sure that every now and then you spray some carb cleaner here on this part. Now, it’ll be a little bit tougher once you’ve got the flange on the end here, but you can still get up in there pretty easy. Just crawl up underneath the vehicle and spray some carb cleaner in there a few times just to make sure that it operates smoothly, and that will help. It will give you a little bit more life out of it before it starts to make a bunch of noise. But I really do think, no matter what quality of these things you buy, you’re going to end up getting some leaks eventually. That’s just the nature of the beast. So luckily with these units, they are real easy to disassemble, unbolt, and just swap a new one in if that does happen.

So yeah, there it is. So that’s exhaust cutouts in a nutshell, or in this case, a peanut butter jar full of screaming chickens. You know, big thanks to Dynox for sending me these. I’ll be installing these on my 408 Joker build soon, and we’ll see how they sound in a real-world test. If you’re interested in adding cutouts to your own ride, I will drop a link to these below. You guys, if you like this video, if you like screaming chickens or the thought of making some schmo in his chrome plated pickup tinkle in his undies, hit like, subscribe, and let me know in the comments. Would you ever run cutouts on your setup, or are you the kind of guy who prefers a muffler that actually muffles? As always, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. And thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. And oh no, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

was about damn time I got started on this thing right. Today I’m finally getting hands on with the classic piece of Ford V8 history, the 351 Windsor. If you’ve been following this channel for a while, you might recall that, uh, years ago I did a deep dive in 351, uh, Windsor engine. Lots of diagrams, historical tidbits, bunch of stats, uh, all that good stuff. But this time I’ve got the real deal sitting right here in front of me, ready for a tear down. Even better, I’m going to take this mild-mannered Windsor and turn it into a 408 stroker that’ll make some serious power. Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. This is going to be the start of a full series where I take a basic 351 stock Windsor, strip it down to the bare bones, check every single component, and then rebuild it from the ground up. By the end, I’ll have a stroker motor that’s ready to rock in just about any Ford project you can dream up. Mine is going to go in my, uh, ’85 F-150. From turning this block down and inspecting the crank journals to picking the right parts for the rotating assembly and finally firing it up, I’m going to cover all the steps, share all the notes, and almost certainly screw up a few things ’cause I’m no pro and that’s bound to happen. Hello! Now before I start ripping into steel and iron, I want to talk about what makes the 351 Windsor so special. Ford introduced this engine in 1969 and it quickly found a home in everything from Mustangs to trucks. The chassis DNA with a 289 and 302 small blocks, but there are a few key differences. The 351 Windsor is built on a taller deck, which translates into more stroke potential. Basically, the block is a bit beefier all around. It’s got bigger main journals, a stronger bottom end, and enough structural integrity to handle the, uh, the kind of power that I’m aiming for in a stroker build. That’s one of the big reasons enthusiasts love turning the Windsor into a 408 or even beyond. It can handle the extra displacement without acting like, uh, it’s about to explode every time you lay into the gas pedal. So let me get specific on some numbers. The original 351 Windsor typically sports a 4-inch bore and a 3.5-inch stroke. Deck height is in the 9.48 to 9.53-inch range depending on the year, which is noticeably taller than the 8.2 inches you’d see in a 289 or 302. Compression ratios vary, uh, they were all over the map depending on the year and emissions. Early on, you might have seen ratios around 10.7 to 1, while later engines dipped into the 8.0 to 9.0 to 1 range, like this one here. It’s a ’95. As for weight, fully dressed with iron heads and intake, you’re looking at about 500 to 520 lbs, so it’s not exactly a featherweight, uh, but you know, if you’re looking for that, get yourself a 289 if weight savings is your ballpark. Now, if you ever find yourself staring at a Ford small block and wondering whether you got a 351 Windsor, a 302, or a 289, here’s how to tell without playing the guessing game. So first off, casting numbers can give you a clue. They’re over here, uh, underneath on the driver’s side, uh, but they don’t spill it out for you. Take the F4TE 615A block that I have here for example. That C number doesn’t straight up scream 351 Windsor, but it does give us some breadcrumbs. The 6015 part, that’s just Ford’s generic block identifier. It doesn’t tell us the displacement, uh, but the F4TE means that it’s a 1994 truck block. Now that means it’s either a 302 or 351 W. So how do we know for sure? Well, here’s where the physical differences between those two different blocks come in. One of the easiest ways to spot a 351 over a 302 is the deck height. Uh, the 351 is noticeably taller, measuring 9.53 inches compared to the 302’s 8.26. It’s a solid 1.3-inch difference, which spreads the heads further apart and it makes the engine physically larger. Now you can’t, uh, fiddle with it to get it right where 9 and a half is, but yeah, you can see it’s pretty close right there. Uh, now if you turn to the bottom end, uh, Ford gave the 351 Windsor a much beefier foundation compared to the 302. I don’t have this apart so I can’t show you, uh, but one of the quickest tells is the main cap bolts. They’re 1/2-inch bolts on 351 versus the smaller 7/16-inch bolts on a 302. Uh, the extra strength is one of the reasons that the 351 Windsor can handle stroker builds and, uh, big power without turning into a, yeah, pile of metal shavings. I mean, not that the 302 can do that, but 351 is more robust. Uh, speaking of beefy internals, the crankshaft main journal is another great big difference. The 351 Windsor uses a hefty 3-inch main journal compared to the 302’s 2.5 inches. You know, so there you go versus there you go, right? Uh, if you got the crank out, a quick measurement will tell you exactly what you’re working with. One more subtle clue is the oil filter boss, uh, location on 351 Windsor. The oil filter mount sits slightly higher on the block than it does on the 302. Now this is not super easy to spot, especially when the engine is inside of a bay, uh, unless you got them both side by side sitting out. But if you want to look for that, it’s just another piece of the puzzle. Uh, so you know, the next time you’re thinking through a swap met or picking through a junkyard, uh, keep those checks in mind. Uh, now if you’re looking at a small block Ford, uh, installed in an engine bay from the front and trying to decide if it’s a 351 Windsor or just another 302, my go-to way, what I think is the easiest, uh, and it’s a quick way to tell at a glance is to check the area around the distributor mount. Um, I’ll get you a closeup here in a second, but, uh, on a 289 or 302, the pad the distributor mounts, uh, is almost flush with the block. On a 351, there’s almost an extra inch of, uh, material here. Uh, it’s much visibly taller. It’s due to the deck height and the taller deck is what gives the 351 Windsor its extra stroke and displacement. So it’s the quick visual indicator, this deck height here around the distributor, uh, to tell if you’re looking at, uh, a 351 or a 302 if the engine is sitting inside of a, of an engine bay, especially if it’s fully dressed. So, uh, while I got the engine still together, although it won’t be for long, there’s a few other things that, uh, I want to point out here before I start tearing this thing down completely. First off, we’ll take a look at the oil pan. Now I’ll be sure to show you the pickup tube and discuss how it affects oil delivery once I’ve got all this stuff here off. Still so much grime. So another thing I want to show you real quick while the engine’s still together is that I still have the, uh, stock exhaust manifolds on. Now they’re fine for a stock build for the most part, but, uh, you know, they’re definitely not going to be okay for a 408 stroker. Now I’ve left these on here because I didn’t want critters and stuff getting in the open holes while I was sitting outside, but now that it’s in my garage, I can, uh, take those off. I’m not doing that right now, but I am going to show you what I’m replacing them with to give you an idea of the difference. So to do that, let me turn this thing back around. Now this thing is definitely top-heavy, so, uh, and it is a beast, so I got to have a little bit of a cheater bar here to, uh, see if I can get this thing turned around. Here we go. H! All right, so here you can see the, uh, stock exhaust header. Let me, uh, try you down a little bit so you can get a better, a little bit clearer shot. And here is the new one that’s going to go on. These are long tube headers. I got them, uh, actually I got them for free from, uh, DynoX, so they provided those for me. I’ve got a video on these, um, where I’ll show you what these are all about. But yeah, man, that’s going to, that’s going to look pretty sweet and sound pretty sweet. Yeah, we can look forward to getting those on. And lastly, while we’re here and this thing is still together, you can take a look at the stock intake manifold up here. Uh, you know what? Actually, let me get, uh, this plate off the top here and I’ll show you what I’m talking about. All right, now that I’ve got the, uh, plate off the top, we could talk about this, uh, stock intake manifold. Now there’s a couple things going on here, um, that need to be addressed as far as my build is concerned. First, you know, these documents are okay for low-end grunt, um, and stock applications, but for a 408 stroker build, uh, they just don’t flow enough air. So I’ll be definitely looking at some aftermarket intakes for this. And, uh, also because this one is a fuel injected intake, not a carbureted intake, um, I will be swapping this to a carbureted engine. Uh, and you guys may go, oh my God, carbureted engine, why would you ever do that? Fuel injection is so much better and more reliable and all this other kind of stuff that people end up doing. Uh, so a couple things. One, uh, I’ve never messed with carburetors before, and so I don’t have that, that little bit of jadedness that some of the carburetor guys have. Uh, and I need to get that. I really need to, to figure out, I need to internalize why carburetors are so horrible, right? So I want to build my engine with a carburetor. I also really like the old school feel of that, and I like the old school look. So if I do get tired of the carburetor, uh, even though I’ve got a carbureted intake, I’ll just get myself like a sniper EFI or something like that that looks like a carburetor, uh, still gives you that old school look, but you, it will work with the intake that I’ve got, but still gives me the, uh, the modern sort of drivability and reliability of an EFI setup. So that’s my plan there. So once I got everything taken apart, disassembled, I’m going to dedicate an entire episode to walking through each of these parts so I can show you exactly what it does and why it’s important. I’ll lay out the crank, rods, pistons, heads, and anything else that I’ve yanked off this block right here, uh, and I’ll put them on a bench and I’ll give you a crash course on small block Ford anatomy. Honestly, it’s going to help me brush up on my own knowledge too because, you know, there’s nothing like pointing at each component and telling you exactly what it does and figuring out how it all comes together to, uh, keep your mind on track. That’ll be good for me before I, uh, build the new engine too, so we’re going to do that. Uh, I mean, Lord knows I need as much help as I can get. If you’re wondering why I picked a 351 Windsor for a project like this, one, you’re obviously not a subscriber to the channel, and two, let me sum it up. Uh, there’s a ton of them out there, it’s durable, and the aftermarket part support is insane. You know, there’s a lot of options for intakes, exhausts, uh, man, all kinds of different stroker kits and just pretty much whatever you’re looking for. So as I’m going along, I’m also going to chat about the history of the Windsor, uh, ’cause it’s really interesting and that’s part of the fun for me. I really like digging into that stuff. So now here’s the part that I’m going to get yelled at for in the next episode. I’m going to start tearing this thing down. Oh my God, Ed, all you ever do is flap your gums! I know, right? I’ve been waiting on this for four years, but I want to do it right and take it slow, so I’m taking it one episode at a time. Next time, I promise I talk to you about this engine, I will be taking it apart. I’m going to show you exactly how I pull the heads, yank the cam, and see if there’s any hidden damage lurking down into this block, right? I’m going to measure the bores to see how much I need to overbore for my stroker pistons. Now hopefully I’ll get lucky and this thing is basically still stock. I think it is, and if it is, then I should probably only have to go 30 over, but you never know. Maybe I won’t, and that’s part of the adventure. So once I know the status, I’ll pick out a nice stroker kit that matches my goal, something that’ll give me a nice bump in torque and horsepower, get me up to 408, and, uh, you know, something that won’t turn this engine into a ticking time bomb. Excuse me, uh, so that’s the plan and I can’t wait to get my hands dirty. If you love classic small block Fords or just enjoy watching some dude in his garage try not to drop a cylinder.

Head on his foot then, uh, this series is definitely going to be for you. I, I, I, I’m designing this series so that some guy like me, who’s never done this before, can start from episode one and work all the way through. By the end, should know everything they got to know to build the same kind of engine that I’m building here. And that’s, guys, that’s why I’m taking it slow. I know that, uh, you four guys that have built before probably look at this going, oh my gosh, this guy is so slow, it’s like watching molasses go uphill. But you’re probably not who this series is for. But you might find it interesting, so I hope that you do.

So guys, do myself and yourself a favor and make sure that you’re subscribed and have those notifications turned on because next time, I swear to you that you see this engine, I will be tearing it apart to see what’s salvageable and set the stage for the 408 stroker build. Um, it’s going to be a lot of work. It’s going to be a lot of head scratching for me ’cause I’ve never done it before. Um, it’s a big, uh, big task and, uh, I’m sure there’ll be a little bit more than just a little bit of cussing under my breath. Um, but I’m looking forward to it.

You know, let me know if you guys have done a stroker engine yourself and how it went. What was a dream come true or a frustrating odyssey of stripped bolts and missing gaskets? Because it is intimidating for a first timer, uh, but I want to hear about it. If you have any other questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, as always, stick them below. Thanks again for watching and we will see you next time.

She’s rough around the edges but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching, we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching, we will see you next time.

You know guys, sometimes doing YouTube is hard, and it takes a lot of time to make videos and a lot of time to sit down and do the research and write the scripts and do all this stuff. So I thought this week I’d try to catch up a little bit, just do a real quick simple video about my plans for the Bullnose. You know, I haven’t done one of those in a while, and that way you guys can kind of see what the plans for the Bullnose are going to be. So, uh, oh, I, uh, yeah, you already know the plans for this Bullnose. I mean, the plan for this Bullnose. Hello, hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and meet Bullnose number two. She’s a 1982 Ford Bronco. Just picked her up this weekend from my actual friend that I’ve got in another town over. He saw my channel, went, ‘Hey, I got a Bullnose rotting out in my yard. You want to come pick her up and add her to your list of projects?’ I thought, ‘Ah, you know what? Why not? Because one Bullnose is never enough, right? Mongo’s Garage, mm, I’m coming for you. I got two now!’ Actually, no, I will never have as many Bullnoses as those dudes have. That is crazy. Anyway, I just thought I would introduce you and let you take a look and talk a little bit about what my plans are.

So this old girl is much rougher than my ’85, but one thing I love about her is that she has a manual transmission. Of course, being a Bronco, she’s a 4×4. She’s pretty rough, but you know, that’s okay because I’m going to cut my teeth on my ’85 and learn my way in and out of these things really, really well, and then we will start restoring this girl right here. Now, as you can see, she does have a little bit of rust coming in down through here and some back over here. My guess is, I’m not sure if you can see that from the camera. I guess you can. And so my guess is that the guy who the previous owner had was doing some mudding and some off-roading and stuff, and those tend to be the places where the mud and the grime and the stuff gets caught up in the fender wells and up inside of here. And so that’s where a lot of dirt and debris and G got caught up in there. As a matter of fact, I can see some, um, already in there. See if I can feel the dust coming out of there. Dust and dirt with grunge and stuff in there. You can actually see where there’s some rocks and dirt caught up inside of there. So my guess is that that stuff got wet and just stayed wet for a while, packed up in there, and that’s where that rust happens.

You got the same thing over by the tailgate. You can see pretty clearly down here on the bottom there. So this tailgate is pretty much roached. I could probably fix this, I guess, but I don’t think I’m going to. They make repop tailgates for these, so I’ll probably just go ahead and do that. The rear window, unfortunately, doesn’t go up and down. I think that’s probably because the motor is busted. So the rear window has been down for a long time, and so that’s allowed the elements to get in here. So the inside of this, especially in the back, is pretty well roached out. But you know, it wouldn’t be a project if it was easy. So my current plan is to take the tailgate off, replace it with a new one. Probably I’ll cut some panels out of this and use them to fill in some of the body areas and the other parts of the truck that are a little bit rusted out. Teach myself how to weld body panels and do some fill and that kind of stuff, just kind of make it look nice. This one, the plan is not to be a show truck like my other truck is. This one is actually going to be something a little bit different.

So my plan for this truck is to be a desert crawler. We’re out here in the desert Southwest. There’s a lot of trails and mountains and stuff here, so I figure I could, uh, you know, it’s kind of pretty much already set for it, right? That’s what a Bronco is. So, uh, I’m not going to go like full pre-run or anything, but just, you know, give it like maybe a 4-inch lift with a 1-inch body lift, and I’ll put some bigger tires on it. You know, it’s already got the 49 in the rear, and it’s got a J44 TTB in the front. And I think, uh, you know, if I just beef up the components for both of those, that should give me what I need to be able to go out and do some serious desert crawling around here. You know, just kind of clean it up and clean up the rust and make sure that it runs right. Now, it’s not roadworthy, unfortunately. Now, it does run, and it actually runs like a top. It’s got an inline six in it, which is awesome, and I think the inline six in this thing runs almost as good as the inline six in my ’85. Now, of course, you guys that are paying attention to my channel all the time know that I’m pulling the inline six out of the ’85 and putting a 351 Windsor in and stroking it to 408. That is not what’s happening to this thing. You guys don’t have to worry. This truck is keeping the inline six. I probably will pull the inline six out of this and do some refreshing on it. I may decide to do some mods to it. You know, there’s some talk in my channel comments about, you know, did you see this where they turboed inline sixes and all this stuff? You know, I might look into some of that stuff. I don’t know that I have the chops for a project like that yet, but you know, by the time I get done building my Windsor and stuff, maybe I’ll feel more comfortable around that stuff, so I might give it a try. Anyway, but regardless, the inline six in this thing is a puller. It’s a workhorse. It got me up on the trailer no problem. There’s some fuel issues, so you have to actually, uh, here, you know what? I’ll show you. There we go. Ah, all right, so there we go. There’s the old inline six in there, and right now the only way I can get it to run is to throw some fuel in a water bottle like this and spray some fuel down in the carb, and then she’ll run. And she runs really, really good. The inline six in this purrs like a kitten, so I’m really happy about that. But, um, I’m not sure what’s going on with the fuel line. I’m not sure why it can’t pull fuel from the fuel tank. I got to look into that. The brakes are basically shot. When we dropped it back off the trailer, I had to actually put it in gear and pop the clutch to make sure that it didn’t roll back into my wall over here. So, uh, yeah, the brakes are pretty much shot. I got to do a complete brake job. I’ve already got a video series on my complete brake job on the other truck, so I won’t bore you with doing that whole thing again. But at least I know what I’m doing there, so I’ll do that. It needs new parking brake. Yeah, obviously. I mean, there’s no, uh, coating in it. There’s, uh, I don’t have any idea what the condition of the oil is. Um, you know, I got to look at all that stuff. But the engine itself runs really well. And you know, my thought was that even a worst-case scenario, the engine in this turned out to not run very well, I can always pull the 300 six out of my other truck and pop it in here and use that. But I don’t think I’m going to have to. I think I can just use the 300 that’s in here, and we’ll see. You know, I’ll get them both out at some point and see which one I want to use for my rebuild.

But yeah, so if you were paying attention to the engine when I had it closer up here, one thing you’ll notice that this truck does not have is air conditioning. And if you’ve watched a couple of my videos before, you know that I specifically bought my other truck because it has air conditioning and because it’s so damn hot down here in the Southwest when it gets to be in the summer. So, uh, that’s kind of okay for this build. Again, this is not going to be an around-town cruiser, really. It’s going to be mostly going out in the desert and having fun. So most of the time, I think this will have windows down, top off, that kind of stuff. But, uh, I still think I want to put AC in it, so I may make a video series about putting AC in a non-AC Bullnose. Um, because that’s, you know, I think that’s worth the content. And I actually do have a dash already from an AC Bullnose truck that I might be able to use as parts and pieces for this. I don’t know how hard that’ll be. I haven’t actually done the research to see how hard it’ll be to put an AC in a non-AC truck, but there are kits that you can use that’ll do that even if you don’t use the factory AC. So, um, yeah, we’ll see how that goes.

All right guys, here we are underneath the Bronco, and you can get a good look at what’s going on down here. There’s the Dana 44 front TTB, and, uh, let’s see, this, believe it or not, is an NP435 transmission. This is the same manual transmission that I got in the ’85. Um, with these trucks for a manual, it’s either going to be a T18 or an NP435, and you can tell this was an NP435 because it’s got the PTO cover on the passenger side right there. You can also see the drain plug is indicative of an NP435 too. So, uh, yeah, same transmission, and that transmission is going to stay in here because NP435 is basically bulletproof, and it’s perfect for a desert runner, desert crawler like I want to build here. So, uh, yeah, as long as it shifts well, which I think it seems to so far, but I haven’t had it out on the road to test it. But yeah, so we’re definitely going to keep that. And as you can see, there’s not really a lot of rust. There’s some surface rust on the frame, nothing real bad. There is some rust there under the seat pan. I think that happens quite a bit in these trucks, so I’ll have to cut that out, put some rust inhibitor or converter on there, and eventually cut that out and probably weld a little pan or something in there to make sure that doesn’t get any worse, make sure it can support my amper frame while I’m in the truck. And then, uh, yeah, so scoot back here. All right, scooting back just a little bit, you can see the transfer case here. I believe it’s an NP205, although I’m not 100% sure. I got to check this tag here and double check, but, uh, I think that’s going to be what it is. Believe it or not, guys, I was wrong. It’s actually a Borg Warner 1345, not a New Process 205 transfer case. Both of those transfer cases were used in this era of Bullnose Broncos, so I wasn’t sure which one it was, and I took a stab, and I was wrong. They’re both really good transfer cases. They’re both pretty similar. The Borg Warner’s got a chain drive, and the NP205’s got a gear drive. I’ll do another video about the differences in the different transfer case options that there are, but I think I’m probably going to go ahead and stick with what I’ve got. I’ll do a service on it and make sure that it runs okay. But, uh, yeah, so it’s a Borg Warner 1345. And then, uh, yeah, you can see underneath here to the back, got the famous Ford 9 inch, which I’m super excited about. It’s not an end case, though I wouldn’t expect it to be an ’82 Bronco. So, uh, but it should still do perfectly for what I want. Beef it up a little bit, put some high spline axles in there and, you know, a locker and some stuff, and we’ll be good to go there. And then, yeah, the driver’s side of the body here doesn’t look too bad. Um, so I think I’m in good shape. There’s some surface rust on the cross member and the frame and just in general, but there’s no rot through. It’s just surface stuff. So, man, got rust falling on me. Uh, but hey, you know, that’s part of the job. So, yeah, um, I’m super happy with it. I’m looking forward to digging into this thing and see what we can make out of it.

All right guys, well then, these are the twin sisters of Bullnose Garage. They’re not identical, just like my other twin girls aren’t identical, but they’re both the same vintage, and one’s an ’85 F150 and one’s an ’82 Bronco. Um, yeah, I’m super, super thrilled of them both. Can’t wait to get them both on the road and going. This one here will obviously get done first. Uh, this is one that I put the new engine in, the 408 that’s going to go in here. Uh, this one has got a lot of work yet to do. I got to do some body work and, uh, obviously work on the engine fueling system, brakes, all that stuff. The fiberglass cab’s got some issues. Some of the fiberglass is kind of getting worn down. I got to, uh, probably coat that and put a coat of paint on it and stuff. But you know what? I’m going to bring you guys along for all that stuff. Uh, you know, this whole channel, everything’s about me cutting my teeth and getting some experience on some of the stuff that I don’t really know that much about. So, uh, yeah, looking forward to getting both these girls fixed up and ready to go. And if you want to be along for the ride, make sure you like and subscribe. I really appreciate that. And like I said, I got that 408 that I’m getting ready to build that’s coming up on the channel. So if you want to see what I’m doing there, make sure you subscribe and, uh, you know, ring the bell and keep in touch with all that stuff. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, C interet ramblings, stick them below. And thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Take her away, getting things to shine. That Bullnose Garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

You know, my old grandpa always used to say, always use the right tool for the job. Ain’t nobody got time for that. I say use whatever works. Rock tool for the job. Okay, Boomer.

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And don’t, don’t be that guy. If you’ve ever tried removing a harmonic balancer with a chisel or peeling off a gasket with a butter knife, you’re in the right place. Today, we’ll talk about the real tools that you need to break an engine down and put it back together without breaking your knuckles or your spirit. Sure, buying the right stuff might cost a bit more up front, but trust me, it’ll save your hairline and your sanity in the long run. So stick around, and by the end of this video, you’ll have a rock solid grasp of which tools truly matter, which ones you could probably live without, and which ones belong in the hands of a professional machine shop. Oh, uh, sorry, the anemometer and rubber chickens are for a different video.

Hello! All right, let’s get right into it with a couple of the big and obvious ones. First off, the engine hoist. F.S. sites say engine tear down like a V8 or inline 6 dangling midair on a sturdy chain in your garage. If you’re pulling the block out of your car or truck, this tool is a no-brainer. Perfect 10 out of 10 on the must-have scale. Some call it a cherry picker, but whatever you decide to call it, it’s all about heavy lifting without wrecking your back or your garage floor. Basic models run between $100 and $150, great for lighter engines or occasional use. For larger engines or frequent jobs, heavy-duty hydraulic hoists cost uh, $200 to $400. Brands like Torin or this Pittsburgh here from Harbor Freight offer reliable options that balance quality and price. You know, mechanics once rigged rope and pulley setups in barn rafters for engine lifts. Thankfully, we got hydraulics on our side today. Just make sure your hoist has the capacity for your engine and your lifting points are solid. Nobody wants a swan diving engine mid-tear down. Look for features like adjustable booms and stainless steel hooks. Uh, they make tear downs smoother and safer. Additionally, a $40 load leveler is a must for uh, big lifts. Also consider portability. Welded or folding booms make storage much easier. Prices vary with these features, so think about what you need most in your setup before you buy.

Next up, the engine stand. Once your engine’s hoisted, you need a solid perch to tear it down. An engine stand is like a mechanical easel, letting you rotate the block to access every single nook and cranny. This gets a 9 out of 10. It’s crucial for a rebuild. After all, you’re not holding that block in your lap. Basic engine stands run between $50 and $100, fine for lighter engines or tight budgets. For bigger blocks or frequent use, heavy-duty models range from $150 to $250. A folding four-point stand like this $2 Pittsburgh model here uh, beats a three-point design for stability and folds for easier storage. Engine stands offer various mounting patterns or even adjustable mounts, uh, like this one to fit different blocks. Match the stand to your engine’s mounting points to avoid compatibility issues. Look for features like adjustable clamps, uh, 360° rotation, and foldable bases to keep things stable while you work. One common mistake with engine stands is mismatching your stand, your engine’s weight, or mounting pattern. A flimsy stand risks an expensive, painful mess. Check your weight capacity and compatibility before buying, and also ensure that the stand is balanced and secure to avoid accidents during a rebuild.

All right, next up we have a silicone tool tray set. Now this might not be the flash tool, but it’s key for keeping nuts, bolts, and tiny doodads organized during a tear down. It’s a 5 out of 10. Not critical, but it’ll save you headaches and time hunting for that elusive bolt. The basic sets run from $15 to $30, great for smaller projects, and for more compartments and better heat resistance, expect to spend $40 to $60. Silicone trays offer flexibility, non-slip grip, and easy cleaning. Just rinse them off, and they’re ready for the next job. They stay put wherever you put them, whether it’s on a cold engine block or something warmer. You know, alternatives like magnetic work trays are okay for ferrous hardware, and even a plastic lunch container can do it in a pinch. The silicone trays win, uh, they’re heat resistant and won’t scratch painted surfaces. They handle extreme heat, so if you accidentally set it on a really hot manifold, you don’t have to worry about it. And bonus, they double as pet food bowls. Just make sure you wash them first.

Next up is an oil drip mat or tray. It’s an unsung hero for keeping your garage all slick-free. It’s a 4 out of 10. You can skip it if you’re outside or you don’t mind a mess, but in a proper garage setup, it’s really a sanity saver, and it might even save your relationship. Oil drip mats come in various sizes and materials. Uh, basic rubber or PVC match up between $20 and $40, while heavy-duty options, uh, like bigger trays or ones that have raised edges or layered designs cost between $50 and $100. Cheaper mats may not last with frequent heavy spills, so spending more up front on a volume mat can save money and hassle long term. You know, pros use similar mats or large drip pans to stay tidy and safe. A clean floor not only looks better but prevents slips and trips. An organized workspace makes tear downs more efficient. Focus on the job, not the mess.

Next up is a harmonic balancer puller. For full engine tear down, you likely need to remove the balancer and excess timing components. This tool gets us 7 out of 10. A three-jaw puller can work in a pinch, but a dedicated balancer puller saves you hassle and prevents damage. It also works as a steering wheel puller and handles some other automotive pulleys. The harmonic balancer absorbs engine vibrations. Its critical role early engineers found crankshafts without dampers often snapped under stress, causing catastrophic failure. So it’s not just a fancy pulley; it keeps your engine smooth and quiet. Balancer pullers like this one range from $30 to $80 depending on quality and the included adapters. Basic sets suit smaller engines or occasional use, while comprehensive kits with multiple adapters can top $100. Sometimes a three-jaw puller works in a pinch, like I said, but it risks cracking or warping the balancer. If you’re doing multiple rebuilds or tackling different engines, invest in a dedicated puller and never use a chisel.

And speaking of three-jaw pullers, that’s next on our list. While a harmonic balancer puller is job-specific, a three-jaw puller is a versatile go-to for tasks like pulling stubborn pulley gears or even steering racks. This gets a 5 out of 10. It’s not critical for an engine rebuild if you’ve got specialized tools especially, but it is a handy backup for unexpected tasks. Three-jaw pullers start uh, between $15 and $30. More durable models with better grips and higher capacity can run between $40 and $80. The three-jaw puller has a long legacy. Blacksmiths and millers used similar designs on steam engines, making you part of a centuries-old tradition. Slipping or marring surfaces is a common issue with the jaws, so ensure a firm, even grip before cranking and use penetrating oil to loosen the stubborn parts. Patience is key; rushing risks damage.

Next up is a carbide scraper. Uh, when stripping gasket sealant or stubborn carbon, this tool is your best friend. This gets a 6 out of 10. Big upgrade from the chisel and butter knife. It’s not essential for occasional maintenance, but for serious rebuilds, it saves frustration and ensures precision. Carbide scrapers come in various shapes and sizes. Basic handheld models like this one here run between $10 and $20. For heavy-duty jobs, multi-tool scrapers or sets with versatile blade shapes cost between $25 and $50. These tools are incredibly durable, staying sharp for longer than steel. Less sharpening, more working. Some models even offer replaceable blades, saving you from buying new tools. Carbide’s toughness and heat resistance make it a go-to for industrial metal aids. If it handles that stress, baked-on gaskets, that’s no problem. Scraping too aggressively with a carbide scraper can gouge metal surfaces, so use a light touch, keep a consistent angle, and make gentle passes to avoid damage.

Meet plastic gauge, a simple but vital tool for engine assembly. When rebuilding an engine, checking bearing clearances is critical for longevity and smooth operation. Plastic gauge makes it easy. Place a waxy strip between the bearing and the journal, torque down to spec, and measure the squished strip to check clearance. This earns an 8 out of 10. Accurate bearing clearance is non-negotiable for a reliable engine build. Plastic gauge is simple, but it comes in variations. Different colors measure specific tolerances. Green and red are most useful for most builds. Packs of single-use strips cost between $10 to $20 and last several projects, while larger kits range from $25 to $40. Plastic gauge is simple to use: just place, torque, and measure. But for accurate results, ensure both surfaces are spotless, as dirt or debris can skew your measurements. Remember, plastic gauge is single-use, so handle it carefully to avoid waste. Since the ’40s, plastic gauge has revolutionized bearing clearance checks. Before it, mechanics relied on cumbersome, less accurate methods. This simple strip brought precision to hobbyists and pros alike. One common mistake with this stuff is just taking inaccurate measurements. Follow the instructions, apply the strip evenly, torque to spec, and measure precisely. Rushing can lead to misleading readings and compromise engine performance.

Next up is a set of feeler gauges. Whether you’re setting valve lash, checking spark plug gaps, or verifying type tolerances, this tool is a must-have. This gets a 7 out of 10. It’s not an everyday tool, but crucial for precise measurements that ensure engine performance and longevity. A good set prevents misfires and uneven wear. Basic sets with 10 to 20 strips cost between $10 and $25. It’s great for hobbyists. Larger sets with 50-plus strips or digital options range from $30 bucks to $60 bucks. Slip gauges date back to the late 1800s, but car enthusiasts adopted them for spark plugs and valve clearance checks. Quality feeler gauges are precise and durable. Stainless or high-carbon steel resists bending and wear. Some advanced sets include color coding or label thicknesses for a quicker selection. A common pitfall with these is bending them or mixing up the strips. Dirty or warped gauges can lead to incorrect measurements and engine issues, so handle them carefully, store them properly, and inspect each strip before you use it.

Next up, we have a dial bore gauge. For serious engine rebuilders, it’s essential for measuring the cylinder or bearing bores accurately. This earns a 9 out of 10. Skipping it risks building an engine with out-of-spec cylinders, leading to poor compression or excessive wear. Precision here is the difference between reliable performance and constant headaches. Dial indicators trace back to 19th-century clock making, where precision tools for watch gears found a new life measuring engine cylinders. Dial bore gauges come in various styles. Basic single dial models run between $40 to $100, and for more versatility, dual dial or digital gauges can cost between $100 and $200. Advanced models feature adjustable bases and magnified dials for easier reading, and height space calibration kits ensure accuracy over multiple projects. Compact designs with protective cases add portability and durability. Calibration with these is a common pitfall. Always zero the gauge with a known standard before you use it, and measure straight across the bore, not at an angle to avoid distorted readings. Clean and store the gauge properly to maintain accuracy and extend its life.

Next up, straight edge, which I can warpage on cylinder heads or surfaces. This tool is indispensable. This one earns a 6 out of 10. It’s not as critical as an engine hoist or a torque wrench, but…

It’s essential for ensuring flat components and a smooth rebuild. Aluminum straight edges like this one here are lightweight, rust resistant, and less fatiguing for frequent use. They’re ideal for tight spaces. They’re also cheaper, but they can dent or scratch more easily, uh, which can affect the precision. Aluminum’s lower rigidity may limit its accuracy for really precise measurements. Steel straight edges are rigid and durable, perfect for precise measurements and larger components where even very slight warping matters. However, they’re much heavier, they’re harder to handle in tight spaces, and they’re prone to rust if you don’t maintain them right. Prices for these vary. Aluminum straight edges run between 10 and 50 bucks, while steel models cost between 15 and 60 bucks. Dropping or dinging a straight edge, especially steel ones, can ruin their precision, so make sure you handle them carefully, keep them clean to avoid false readings, and store them properly. Look for smooth edges, precise markings, and protective coatings to ensure accuracy and durability. You know, the pros use granite slabs for unparalleled accuracy, but for us mortals, a straight edge is going to work just fine.

Next up, we’ve got a magnetic base dial indicator. This tool is a must for serious rebuilders measuring crankshaft end play, camshaft runout, and other precise movements. It earns a six out of ten. It’s not as critical as an engine hoist or torque wrench, but it’s vital for precise component movement. The magnetic base keeps the dial indicator steady, letting you move components and measure without, uh, constant repositioning. Basic models like this one here cost between 30 to 60 bucks, while more precise, durable options can run between 70 to 150. One thing you want to look for is making sure that you, uh, secure the base on a clean surface to always get a good accurate reading. Always clean and degrease everything first. Also, like with bore gauges, you gotta zero the gauge before you start measuring.

Next, we’ve got a vacuum pressure gauge kit. Now, this kit is essential for a basic teardown, but it’s invaluable for diagnosing leaks or checking seals post-rebuild. This turns a five out of ten. It’s not a must for every rebuild, but it can save you from frustrating troubleshooting by measuring vacuum levels accurately. Basic kits like this one with a single gauge and just some adapters cost between 20 and 40 bucks. It’s great for beginners or tight budgets. Comprehensive kits with multiple gauges, adapters, and digital displays can range from 50 to 100. A good vacuum gauge kit detects leaks and verifies engine seal integrity. Accessories like hoses and fittings make connecting to engine ports much easier. Folks that are new to this can feel overwhelmed by all the readings, so learn your engine’s normal vacuum range before testing. This helps spot leaks or deviations quickly.

Next up is a vacuum leakdown tester. Now, this isn’t the same thing as the vacuum pressure gauge kit, but it is a cousin. It’s indispensable for deep engine diagnostics post-rebuild. This earns a seven out of ten. Not an everyday tool, but it’s crucial for checking valves, piston rings, and cylinder seals to ensure smooth, efficient operation. Vacuum leakdown tests originated in aviation, where pilots tested for even the smallest leaks to ensure engine reliability at altitude. This precision approach eventually found its way into automotive diagnostics, and that enhances engine rebuild reliability. Uh, kits like this, uh, generally go between 50 and 100, and advanced kits with more digital readouts or, yeah, fancy test ports run between 150 to 300. Look for models with digital displays for easier reading and multiple adapters for various different types of engines. Advanced kits with built-in pumps or integrated gauges can streamline testing and ensure your compressor provides consistent pressure. Weak compressors can skew the readings and the diagnostics.

Next up is a mini spring tester. First-time builders might overlook this tool, but it’s handy for spotting weak or mismatched valve springs. This turns a four out of ten. It’s not essential for every rebuild, but measuring seat and open pressure offers insights into your valve train’s balance and prevents valve float, especially at high RPMs. Many spring testers are straightforward and affordable, and drag racers often test and swap valve springs mid-season to prevent valve float and push their engines to the limit. This cheap insurance enhances performance and extends engine life by keeping the valve train balanced under extreme conditions. Common issues with these include incorrect setup or measuring at the wrong heights, which can skew your results. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and measure precisely. If you’re working with a brand new matched set of springs, then you might not need this tool since brand new matched sets of springs are supposed to be matched and designed to work together harmoniously right out of the box. But it might be worth checking them anyway, especially if you’ve got a few thousand going into your build. It’s kind of cheap insurance.

Next up, valve spring compressor. This tool is crucial for removing and installing valve springs during a teardown or a rebuild. This earns an eight out of ten. Well, it’s not as universally essential as an engine hoist or a torque wrench, it’s indispensable for safely handling valve springs. Cat clamp style compressors like this one are widely available. Basic models cost between 20 and 40 bucks. It’s great for smaller engines or occasional use. For larger engines or frequent jobs, robust models priced 50 to 80 bucks offer better durability and ease of use. These tools adapt to various spring sizes, but maneuvering in tight cylinder head pockets can be tricky. Shade tree mechanics want to use sockets and clamps to compress springs. It’s cumbersome and way less safe. Modern cat clamp compressors are safer, more efficient, and prevent parts from flying across your garage. A common issue with these is slipping off the retainer, which can send keepers flying, so always secure the compressor properly before you tighten it down and apply gradual pressure to avoid slip-ups.

Next up is a piston ring filer. For engines with new rings, this tool is essential for ensuring everything is up to spec. This turns a seven out of ten. Not a top priority, the precise gap filing significantly boosts engine performance and longevity. Basic handheld models like this one here cost 20 to 25 bucks. More durable models with adjustable features for different ring sizes can run between 30 and 60. Choose a model with a stable grip for consistent, accurate filing. Failing to engage sometimes can, uh, help verify the end gap as you work, avoiding constant stops to measure. Hand filing rings with a small file used to mean guessing angles and hoping for the best. Well, you can still do that, I’d recommend against it. Precision piston ring filers eliminate the guesswork, improving reliability, performance, and consistency in modern engine builds. Avoid removing too much material or filing at the wrong angle, which can harm compression and increase wear. File gradually, measure frequently, and maintain consistency to prevent uneven gaps.

Up next, piston ring pliers. Never snap a ring trying to do it by hand. Piston ring pliers prevent that heartbreak. This runs a six out of ten. Not as critical as an engine hoist or torque wrench, but it does make installing piston rings smoother and less stressful. Piston ring pliers haven’t changed much in decades. They still use the same scissor action as they always have. Basic manual models can cost between 10 and 20 bucks, while more robust options with adjustable jaws or locking mechanisms can range from 25 to 40. Advanced pliers with locking mechanisms maintain expansion without manual pressure, which makes multiple ring installations easier and less tiring. Avoid yanking too hard, especially if you’re new to the tool. Overzealous handling can bend or crack rings, which causes delays and engine issues. Let the pliers do the work, apply steady pressure, and stay within the ring’s natural flex. Take your time to ensure each ring is installed correctly.

Up next, we have a ring compressor, specifically the band style type popular among engine builders. This turns an eight out of ten. It’s essential for safely installing piston rings without damaging them or the cylinder walls. Ring compressors come in two types. Basically, you got the band style and then there’s a tapered sleeve. These band style compressors are universal and versatile, and they cost between 15 to 40 bucks. Tapered sleeves, which are favored in speed and race shops, are more specialized and they cost between 50 to 100 dollars or more. Tapered compressors are common in race shops for speed, but adjustable band compressors are the go-to for enthusiasts. Their flexibility suits various engine types, making high-quality rebuilding accessible to just about everybody. Band style compressors clamp around the piston, letting you gently tap it into the bore while protecting the rings. Look for adjustable bands, secure locking mechanisms, and features like protective coatings or rubber grips to prevent cylinder wall scratches. One common mistake with these is not snugging the compressor enough, which can cause a ring to pop out and scratch a cylinder wall. That’s a bad day. Secure the compressor tightly, double-check the ring orientation, and use steady taps to maintain control. Precision and patience are key to successful installation.

Next up is a torque wrench, easily one of the most essential tools in your engine rebuild arsenal. I’m giving this a perfect ten out of ten because tightening fasteners to the proper specs is critical for engine integrity and performance. Whether you’re working on rod bolts, main caps, or cylinder heads, a reliable torque wrench ensures precision and prevents catastrophic failures. There are a few different types to consider, each with its own strengths. Beam torque wrenches are simple, affordable, and durable. They use a pointer and a scale to show torque, but they require careful reading and can be less precise at higher levels. Click wrenches like this one here are popular because they’re accurate and easy to use. You hear a distinct click when you hit the right torque, so there’s no need to keep an eye on the scale. Digital torque wrenches go a step further with features like LCD displays, memory storage, and even Bluetooth tracking. They’re precise and convenient, making them a favorite if you want tech in your toolbox. Finally, my personal favorite, split beam wrenches combine the durability of beam wrenches with the accuracy of a click wrench. They’re built to handle heavy use, making them perfect for serious rebuilders. Pricing varies depending on the type. Beam wrenches are the most budget-friendly at 15 bucks to 40 bucks. Click wrenches run between 30 to 100 bucks, while digital wrenches start at 70 and can exceed 200. Each split beam wrench typically costs 50 to 150 and offers excellent durability and precision. When choosing a torque wrench, accuracy and reliability are key. One thing to avoid is using your torque wrench as a breaker bar. It’s a surefire way to damage the internal mechanism. And don’t skip calibration. Frequent use can throw off accuracy, so calibrate it regularly and store it appropriately in its case. A well-maintained torque wrench is a tool you can trust for years, and your engine will thank you for it.

And next, we have a torque angle gauge, a tool essential for torque-to-yield bolts that need precise torque and angle measurements. This earns a seven out of ten. Not an everyday tool, but crucial for ensuring engine integrity and longevity with torque-to-yield fasteners. Modern engines, especially those with aluminum cylinder heads like the high-performance kind, rely on torque-to-yield fasteners for uniform clamping forces and effective sealing. A torque angle gauge ensures precise tightening, preventing gasket blowouts and boosting engine reliability and performance. A basic torque angle gauge like this one here is 20 to 40 bucks. They provide simple…

Easy to read measurements. Advanced models priced $50 to $100 may include digital displays, memory functions, and locking mechanisms for added precision and durability. Misalignment is an issue with torque angle gauges; it leads to inaccurate readings and improper tightening. So, to avoid this, make sure you keep the gauge secure and aligned, and read the instructions carefully. Practice on a few bolts before working on critical components.

Next up, assembly lube. Think of it as the icing on your engine’s cake. But instead of just making things look good, it prevents metal-on-metal contact during that critical first startup. This earns an 8 out of 10. It’s not a daily tool, but it’s essential for smooth engine break-in and long-term reliability. Assembly lube provides a protective coating during startup before that sweet, sweet engine oil takes over. It prevents wear when components are most vulnerable without attracting excess dirt or debris. Basic assembly lube costs $5 to $15, making it an affordable insurance policy. Premium formulations for high-performance engines can run $15 to $25 and offer a little bit of enhanced protection. Early racers used to use gear oil or even STP additives to make shifts to 7 with lubes, but they lack the protection of modern blends like this Permatex Ultra Slick here. Today’s lubes are engineered for optimal engine break-in and enhanced performance reliability without the guesswork.

Common mistakes include using too much or too little of this stuff. Excess lube can attract dirt and cause sludge, while too little, I mean, it leads to more friction and wear. So, apply a thin, consistent layer and avoid mixing this with the lubricants that can reduce the effectiveness of it. Just follow the directions and, you know, ensure a proper application.

Up next, we have thread sealing with PTFE. This is for threaded fittings that might leak oil or coolant. Thread sealant in those cases is your best friend. This turns in a 6 out of 10. It’s not as frequently used as other tools, but it’s invaluable for leak-free connections. PTFE, which is the same material that makes non-stick pans slippery, creates a reliable barrier against leaks while allowing components to be easily disassembled. Standard tubes of this stuff are between $5 and $10, making it an affordable addition to your cool kit. PTFE particles provide excellent sealing without clamping, and they resist oil, coolant, transmission fluids, that kind of stuff. It’s a non-hardening formula that ensures easy disassembly during maintenance too. Avoid using thread sealing on sensors or plastic fittings where it’s not recommended. Over-application can cause excess to squeeze out, which potentially clogs passages. So, uh, watch that. Clean and dry threads before applying a very thin, even layer to all the male threads. Assemble by hand to ensure proper engagement before tightening, and always check the manufacturer’s guidelines for proper compatibility.

So, that covers all the tools I’ll be using during my rebuild, but there are a few other tools you might want to consider. Depending on the nature of your build or how much of your own work you want to do, you might want to consider a ridge reamer designed to remove the ridge that forms at the top of the cylinder over time. If you’re refreshing an engine and reusing the bore size, a ridge reamer is essential for shaving the ridge and safely removing pistons. However, if you’re sending the engine to a machine shop for an overbore or any other work, they can handle this step. It makes the ridge reamer optional for DIY enthusiasts. Basic ridge reamers cost between $20 and $50, acceptable for hobbyists, while precision models for specialized applications range from $50 to $100. A good ridge reamer provides a smooth, consistent finish without removing excessive material. Look for models with precision ground blades and adjustable guides for accurate material removal. Advanced options may also include interchangeable blades or variable depth settings for added versatility.

A common mistake with a ridge reamer is just removing too much material or using the tool wrong, as it can damage your cylinder walls. Follow the manufacturer instructions, shave small amounts at a time, and check progress frequently. Proper alignment and even pressure are crucial to prevent damage.

Next up, cylinder hone. It’s available in ball or stone varieties. This tool de-glazes cylinder walls and creates the crosshatch pattern that helps piston rings seat correctly. While it’s a valuable addition, engines needing an overbore or high-performance honing are best left to a machine shop. A proper crosshatch distributes oil evenly, ensures ring break-in, and prevents leaks, reduces wear, and improves performance over time. Ball hones, priced between $20 and $50, are user-friendly and great for beginners. Stone hones at $52 or more provide greater precision and control, making them ideal for high-performance applications. A good hone creates a consistent crosshatch without removing too much material. Look for adjustable grit sizes or ergonomic handles and features like guide rails for even pressure and alignment. Be careful here, ’cause over-honing can create taper in a cylinder, which is a common mistake. Avoid removing too much material by making quick passes and checking your progress often. Gotta maintain the correct angle and pressure, and if you’re unsure, consult a professional or follow a detailed guide.

Next up is a freeze plug installer. This tool helps you drive plugs into your engine block without damage or misalignment. Now, it’s not essential; a freeze plug installer makes installation smoother and more precise, especially when you’re placing multiple plugs. You can also use a properly sized socket or leave the task to a machine shop if the engine’s being prepped. Freeze plugs, or core plugs, are leftover holes from the sand casting process used to create engine blocks. Though often called freeze plugs, their main purpose is to drain casting material, not to pop out during freezing. Manual freeze plug installers, priced between $10 and $25, are simple and pretty affordable. You place the plug in the tool and just tap it in with a hammer for straight, even installation. They make hydraulic models, which cost between $30 and $60, and they offer more controlled force for greater precision and reduce the risk of damage. It’s a common issue, and it can lead to leaks, so double-check your alignment and use steady taps to drive it in straight. Avoid excessive force, which can bend or crack the plug, or do like I’m going to do, which is just take it to the machine shop.

Next up is a thread chaser kit. This tool cleans bolt holes before reassembly, removes debris that can cause false torque readings. While a tap and die set does work, taps are aggressive, and they might remove metal if they’re used incorrectly. Basic thread chaser kits cost between $15 and $30 and include chasers for various size threads. Premium kits, priced between $35 and $60, offer high-quality materials, ergonomic handles, and even more size options for precise cleaning. Make sure to avoid cross-threading by properly lining the chaser and apply even pressure. Take your time to prevent over-chasing, which can strip the threads and compromise their integrity. Like me, if you prefer not to invest in a kit, that’s fine; a machine shop can usually handle this. Professional-grade thread cleaning on a budget, taps from a tap and die set, like I said, can be used, but they require extra care to avoid damaging the threads.

Finally, on my list, we have an engine rotating tool. This tool lets you manually rotate an engine on a stand, making it easier to check clearances or install parts. It’s useful, but it’s a little more optional because you can usually rotate the engine with a socket on a crank snout or by turning the flywheel. Still, it offers better control to have the actual tool, especially for complex assemblies requiring precise movement. Manual rotating tools are priced between $20 and $50. They have a simple crank handle for smooth hand-powered rotation. Always make sure you remove your spark plugs before rotating a fully assembled engine. This is going to avoid compression issues that can make turning difficult or even risky. Apply steady, controlled force and ensure the tool is securely attached to prevent slips or misalignment.

Where have it, guys? Those are the tools that I will be using to disassemble and then eventually reassemble my 351 Windsor engine. You know, when I started out doing this, I had no idea what most of these tools even were, and I had no idea what to even think about going out and getting or why you would use them. So, I hope that this video has kind of shed some light on that for you, helped you out. And only you guys may already be experienced engine builders, but hey, you know, if you learned something today, as always, I ask that you give me a like and subscribe. It really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, if you think I missed something, or if you think my importance factor was wrong on any of these, hey, give me a shout, let me know what you think in the comments. I appreciate that too. So, as always, guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No gauge, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

So you want to talk about a defining but often overlooked feature of Ford trucks in the second half of the 20th century? Sure, you’re going to the right place, but don’t expect an all about the legendary Windsor V8s, bold styling, rock solid rear axles, or groundbreaking transmissions. No, today we’re talking about getting groceries.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and if you’re like me and groceries feel more like a luxury these days, maybe you’ve got some time to learn about one of Ford’s wildest ideas: the twin I-beam and twin traction beam suspensions. These engineering marvels made everything from grocery runs to off-road adventures more comfortable while driving alignment techs crazy in the process. Today, we’re going to dig into what makes this system brilliant, bizarre, and downright infuriating. So settle in, it’s going to be a cushy ride.

Hello! Ford’s twin I-beam suspension debuted in 1965 on the F-series trucks. The goal was simple: create a suspension that combined the strength of a solid axle with the comfort of independent suspension. And let’s be honest, Ford absolutely nailed the durability part. This setup could take a beating on a rugged job site or muddy trail and still bring it home in one piece. The twin I-beam was revolutionary for its time. Instead of a single solid axle running across the front, Ford split it into two beams, each mounted to the frame on its own pivot point. The design gave each wheel independent movement while maintaining the strength needed for a truck.

Fast forward to the early 80s, and Ford evolved the concept into the twin traction beam for their 4×4 models. The TTB added a differential to the mix, allowing for independent movement in an off-road capable drivetrain. These designs stuck around for decades. The twin I-beam was a staple in Ford’s two-wheel drive trucks, while the twin traction beam dominated the front ends of 4×4 models well into the ’90s. And though they’ve been replaced by more modern systems, today they remain a favorite for off-road enthusiasts and anyone who appreciates overbuilt engineering.

So let’s head over to my stripped-down 1995 F-150 chassis, and I can break the system down and show you how these parts work together. The twin I-beam consists of two large forged steel beams. Each beam pivots on a frame-mounted bracket and connects to the wheel hub at the outer end. Ford engineered these beams to be tough because they had to be. These trucks weren’t just for show; they worked hard hauling, towing, and tackling rough terrain. Each beam uses a radius arm to control forward and backward movement. These arms connect the beams to the frame, providing stability. Coil springs or leaf springs, depending on the model, support the truck’s weight while shocks handle the damping.

The twin traction beam builds on this concept by adding a front differential and CV axles. This setup enables four-wheel drive functionality while retaining independent beam movement. The main tweak is that one beam is split to house the differential, with a slip joint handling axle length changes during suspension movement.

Okay, so let’s get into the fun stuff. First, I’ll jack up one wheel to show you how independent articulation works. Notice how one wheel moves while the other stays put? That’s the magic of a twin I-beam. It’s kind of like an independent suspension but keeps the rugged simplicity of a solid axle design. Those pivot points are doing all the heavy lifting here. I’ll grab a level, and watch this. As the suspension travels, you’ll see the camber angle shift. This dynamic camber is one of the system’s quirks. While it’s awesome for off-road capability, it’s a nightmare for tire wear and alignment precision. Alignment techs watching this are probably groaning already, and yeah, I get it. Let me show you something. Here’s an image of my chassis before I took the engine and transmission off, and here it is afterwards. You see the dramatic difference in camber? If that’s not a quirk, then I don’t know what is.

Finally, let’s take a closer look at the wear points here at the bushings. You can see how years of hard work and rough roads take their toll. The ball joints and radius arm mounts are other common failure points. If you’re running one of these, keep an eye on these parts. They’ll save you a headache later.

The twin I-beam debuted on the 1965 F-series and remained a go-to for Ford’s two-wheel drive trucks through the late ’90s. The twin traction beam arrived in 1980, making its debut in the F-series and Bronco 4×4 models. It stuck around until the late ’90s too, when Ford moved to more modern independent front suspension designs. These systems showed up on everything from work trucks to off-road rigs. They even gained popularity on custom builds and Baja racers, thanks to their durability and the ability to handle heavy loads in extreme terrain.

But while the twin I-beam and TTB are undeniably tough, they are definitely not perfect. With dynamic camber changes, uneven tire wear is practically a guarantee without regular alignments, and their long beams can sometimes bend under extreme stress, though it’s pretty rare in normal everyday use. When it comes to maintenance, keep an eye on the bushings, ball joints, and radius arm mounts. These points take a lot of abuse and tend to wear out faster than the other parts. Replacing them isn’t hard, but using quality parts will save you from constant repair.

Ford’s modern independent front suspensions are far more refined and easier to maintain, but they don’t have the rugged simplicity of the twin I-beam and TTB. Solid axles, like those in many Dodge and Jeep models, offer better articulation and strength for serious off-roading, but they give up that cushy ride comfort that Ford I-beams are known for. For most drivers, the twin I-beam and TTB strike a balance between comfort and capability that’s pretty hard to beat. Off-road enthusiasts love their durability and how well they handle abuse.

So how did the twin I-beam and TTB stack up against the competition? Well, let’s take a look. So double wishbone, sure, they offered better handling and more predictable camber angles, but they couldn’t match the sheer durability and off-road prowess of the twin I-beam. Ford went for toughness and ride comfort instead of sharp road manners. But what about solid axles in the front, you say? Well, Dodge and GM stuck with solid axles, and while these were rugged and offered excellent articulation for off-road use, they often rode rougher than the Ford T-I-beam. They also sent more vibration and noise into the cab, which made them less ideal for daily driving, you know, and getting groceries.

For off-roaders, the TTB was a revelation. It combined the durability of the twin I-beam with the added traction of a four-wheel drive drivetrain, giving enthusiasts a suspension that thrived on both trails and highways. But the TTB’s complex geometry made it harder to maintain than the simpler solid axle setup. Aligning a twin I-beam or TTB suspension is a dying art. Unlike standard suspensions, where alignment usually means tweaking camber, caster, and toe, the twin I-beam’s dynamic camber needs a deeper understanding of how it moves under load. Most alignment shops struggle with these setups because the knowledge has faded over time. The beams, pivots, and radius arms create unique challenges. Getting the alignment right often means using specialized shims to fine-tune camber and caster angles. Those shims need to be carefully chosen based on the truck setup and how you plan to use it. Inexperienced techs can throw off the alignment, causing uneven tire wear and bad handling.

If you’re looking for a shop to align your twin I-beam or TTB equipped truck, look for older, experienced techs or specialists who know classic Ford systems. Bringing a service manual or alignment spec can help make sure the job gets done right, if they’ll let you do that. If you’re a shade tree mechanic, you might be able to handle a basic alignment on twin I-beam or TTB suspension with some common tools. Now, it’s not going to replace a professional setup with the proper tools, but it can improve handling and tire wear until you can get it done professionally.

So here’s how you tackle it. Okay, so if you’re doing this yourself, here’s what you’re going to need: a camber gauge like the one I showed you earlier, or just a straight edge, and a level, tape measure, some jack stands, and wrenches and sockets, and some alignment shims for the camber and caster adjustments. Got all that stuff? Okay, great. Here’s what you do. First, check your ride height. You got to make sure the truck’s sitting at its normal ride height with all the usual weight installed: engine, transmission, you name it. The suspension geometry depends on load, so skipping this step can throw off all your adjustments.

Next, you measure the camber by using a camber gauge or a straight edge and level against the wheel. Compare what you measure to the factory specs. If you need to adjust, you’ll add or replace shims at the beam pivot points. Third step is to set your toe. Grab your tape measure and check the distance between the front and rear edges of the tires. You want the front measurement to be just a little closer than the rear for a slight toe-in. Adjust the tie rods to dial it in. Step four, adjust your caster. This one’s a bit trickier. Caster adjustments require shimming at the radius arms. You want to consult a service manual here to make sure you get it right. And finally, the final check. Once everything’s adjusted, go back and recheck all your measurements, then take the truck out for a short drive. If it pulls to one side or chews through tires, then you know you need to tweak it some more. I know it’s not very specific; go out and get a shop manual, but really, that’s your best friend in a situation like this. And while this process can help in a pinch, a professional alignment is still the gold standard for proper geometry. But hey, this is a great way to get your hands on with your suspension and learn more about your truck.

One good thing about this type of suspension is that the aftermarket has fully jumped on with the twin I-beam and TTB. Upgraded radius arms, beam braces, and heavy-duty bushings are easy to find and can boost strength and performance. Lift kits are a favorite too, giving you more ground clearance and room for bigger tires. Off-roaders love the TTB for its massive potential. With the right upgrades, these systems can dominate pretty much anything: rock crawling, desert racing, you name it. It’s no wonder why they still have a loyal fan base decades after rolling off the line.

Ford pushed the twin I-beam suspension as a breakthrough in truck design back in the day. Ford ads used animated diagrams to show off how the suspensions work, highlighting their independent movement and durability. The TTB built on this legacy, becoming a legend in the off-road world, especially in Baja racing, where modified versions still compete today. Plenty of aftermarket long travel kits for desert racing take inspiration from the TTB’s design, proving its lasting impact on off-road technology. Enthusiasts love how overbuilt these suspensions are, which is why they’re still favorites for restoration and custom builds.

And that’s the quick and dirty story of Ford’s twin I-beam and twin traction beam suspensions: rugged, innovative, and a little quirky, just like the trucks they come on. Love them or hate them, you have to respect the engineering behind these designs. They’ve stood the test of time and remain a favorite among enthusiasts.

So there you go, guys, everything I know or pretend to know about the twin I-beam and twin traction beam suspension. Again, like I always say, if you learned something, give me a like and subscribe. That really helps me out; I appreciate it. Go get yourself a cool hat, and if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, if I missed something, if you just want to yell at me for some reason, stick it in the comments. Once again, guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time. But she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. Oh no, garage, she’s considered div. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.

What does the Ford 9-in axle and Mike Tyson have in common? No matter how old they get, they both can take a beating and keep coming back for more. This rear end is so tough it probably scares the bolts holding it together, and it’s been doing that since the ’50s.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And while it’s true that the 9-in is legendary for its strength, there’s more to the story than just soaking up horsepower. Back in the day, racers were sneaking these bad boys into competition, bending rule books like pretzels just to get a leg up. Why? Well, because the Ford 9-in rear end was like a secret weapon that gave them an edge on the track. And even now, decades later, it’s still the go-to choice for gearheads looking to put serious power to the pavement while keeping their options open. But it’s all fun and games until someone snaps an axle, and nothing is perfect. Yeah, I said it.

Today, we’re taking a hard look at what makes a Ford 9-in so revered among enthusiasts and how even the mighty Ford 9-in has its tradeoffs. So grab a seat while we shake the dust off the old shop manual and dig into every nut, bolt, and bearing until we know why this rear end practically has its own fan club.

Hello! All right, so let’s get into what makes the Ford 9-in axle tick. When we say Ford 9-in, we’re talking about the ring gear diameter—a solid 9 in of precision engineering. Back in the ’50s, Ford engineers weren’t just aiming for good enough; they wanted a rear end that outlasted the rest of the drivetrain, and they nailed it. Today, Ford 9-in axle usually means the whole rear end assembly: housing, third member, ring and pinion, and axle shafts. It’s a fully integrated system that you can tweak, tune, and toughen to no end.

What really sets the 9-in apart? It’s ridiculously easy to wrench on. Thanks to its removable third member, you can yank the whole gear set out from the front without dinking around in gear oil. That’s a lifesaver for anyone dialing in their gear ratios. Whether you’re setting up for highway cruising or shaving a tenth off your quarter mile, you can swap ratios in an afternoon, not in a weekend.

But the Ford 9-in axle isn’t just about ease of maintenance. The design itself is inherently robust. Its lower pinion placement engages more teeth on the ring gear at once, spreading the load and reducing wear. A simple tweak, but with big results. With a beefy housing, unmatched aftermarket support, and decades of refinements, you’ve got a rear end that’s just as comfortable behind a mild small block as it is handling high horsepower builds.

Speaking of beefy housings, if you ever find yourself rummaging through a junkyard for that 9-in, keep your eyes peeled for the casting marks on that center section. If you spot a big bold ‘N’ cast in there, that usually means it’s a nodular iron case—the holy grail for folks running serious power. Those nodular iron cases handle torque like nobody’s business. We’re talking about a stronger iron blend that resists cracking under high torque, like a steel-toed boot versus a flip-flop. Ford also made standard or war cases, which are still tough for most builds, but if you’re hunting the best of the best, nodular—that’s the watchword.

Another thing: not all 9-in housings are created equal. Some are big bearing and some are small bearing. You can’t always slap big bearing axles on a small bearing housing, so it’s worth checking whether your junkyard score is big or small bearing before you load up on fancy new parts. Big bearings handle heavier loads and higher speeds better—perfect for high horse builds or trucks that see a lot of abuse. Whether you’re retrofitting a classic Mustang or tackling a late model resto mod, the 9-in is up for the job.

And while we’re on this subject of adaptability, let’s keep in mind that it means the 9-in came in all shapes and sizes over the decades. Ford used it in everything from ’57 Rancheros to Broncos and F-series trucks, and the distance between wheel mounting surfaces can vary a ton. If you’re swapping a 9-in into a classic Mustang or something else entirely, you don’t always have to match the exact factory width. Going narrower can help tuck in big tires or achieve a certain stance, while going wider might fill out the fenders better. If you do decide to go off script with the width, just remember to measure your wheel offset or backspacing before you commit. Otherwise, you can end up with rubbing tires or that bulldog look where the wheels stick way out like a sore thumb. Although some folks around where I live think that looks really cool, uh, but I’ll let you be the judge.

In any case, for a restoration, sure, you might want to keep it bone stock, but for hot rodders or resto mod builders, a little fudging on the width is all right.

All right, so let’s get back on track and spin the dial back to 1957 so we can get into how the 9-in made its mark. Introduced in ’57, it debuted under full-size Ford cars like the Custom and Fairlane, delivering durability that was pretty impressive for the time. By the ’60s, as Mustangs, Thunderbirds, and Galaxies hit the streets packing some serious V8 heat, the 9-in axle became the obvious choice. Racers caught on quick; before long, you’d find the Ford 9-in rear end in everything from drag strip warriors to circle track terrors. Why? Well, it could take big horsepower without grenading its internals like a piñata at a four-year-old’s birthday party.

By the late ’60s, if you were building a serious track car or a dragster, there was a pretty good chance someone would just whisper, “What a 9-in under there?” Ford made waves by putting it in popular platforms like the Mustang. Now, not every first-gen Mustang came with a 9-in from the factory; it depended on the engine and the options, but performance variants often did. And even if they didn’t, a 9-in was pretty easy to swap in. Gearheads hoarded these axles, yanking them from junkyards, swapping them into other Fords, and even squeezing them into non-Ford builds. After all, horsepower doesn’t care what badge is on the grill when it’s time to hold the line in the back.

You know, I’ve come across more than a few stories while doing my research here—whispers passed out in magazines, interviews, uh, and the pits after the dust settled about racers sneaking Ford 9-in rear ends under their machines they had no business being in. Chevy, Mopar, didn’t make a difference. With a careful grind here and a splash of paint there, they sneaked right past the rule book to tap into the 9-in strength and reliability. These weren’t loyalists looking to wave the blue oval banner; they were competitors who knew a performance edge when they saw one. That kind of sneaky dedication says it all. The 9-in was like a backstage pass; everyone wanted it, but not everyone was supposed to have it.

By the way, if you’re sneaking a 9-in under your build, make sure you pay close attention to the axle shaft hardening. Some older 9-in axles, often the earlier 31-spline shaft units, are, uh, through-hardened, making the metals uniformly hardened from end to end. These can be safely shortened and re-pinned without splicing into a soft zone. But many later axles, especially post-’72, are only induction-hardened around the splines. Uh, chop those, and you’ll be cutting into the metal if it’s not heat-treated for high stress, which is a recipe for a catastrophic failure. So don’t just fire up the angle grinder without knowing what kind of metal mojo you’re working with. In general, 31-spline axles prior to ’72 can be sure, but because Ford’s manufacturing methods varied over time and sometimes even mid-year, uh, the safest bet is to verify exactly how each axle’s hardened. Also, if the axle is tapered, it’s generally off-limits for shortening.

If you want to keep it simple and have the cash, you can just go to aftermarket and forget all the messy shortening business altogether and skip the guesswork.

All right, let’s talk about what makes this rear end tick. A stock Ford 9-in axle typically came with either 28-spline or 31-spline axles. Spline count refers to how the axles connected to the differential. More splines typically mean stronger axles. In most factory V8 setups, 28-spline axles got the job done, but on heavier hitters like the Boss 302 or the 428 Cobra Jet, you might find 31-spline axles lurking back there for serious power. Think drag racing with a blown Windsor or a torque-happy 460; you want to upgrade to 31-spline shafts or even aftermarket 35-spline options. Thankfully, the aftermarket delivers every spline count and alloy you could dream of.

As for 9-in gear ratios, well, that’s where the fun begins. You can run something mild like 3.0 to 1 or 3.25 to 1 for long highway cruises. It lets your engine loaf along its speed without screaming. On the other hand, if you’re dropping the hammer at the track or looking for killer acceleration off the line, step up to something in the 4.0 to 1 and above range. Yeah, your fuel economy will take a hit, but when you’re chasing faster ETs, who’s counting miles per gallon anyway? The best part is that changing gears in a 9-in end is about as painless as it gets. Just pop the third member out, swap in a new set, and you’re good to go. No fumbling around inside of cramped housing.

Over the years, the Ford 9-in axle found itself under a wide variety of Ford vehicles, from certain configurations of the ’57 Ford Custom and Ranchero to Mustangs, Fairlanes, Galaxies, and later Broncos and F-series trucks. The 9-in got around. Even Mercury and Lincoln got in on the action. If you want to nerd out a little, check the chart I’ll pop up here on the screen that lists a bunch of the different vehicles and the axle widths they came with. This is perfect if you’re hunting for a junkyard 9-in and don’t want to guess which housing might work best for your ride. But always measure for yourself because Ford was known to change specs mid-year. If you’re looking for an exact fit or dealing with tight tolerances, you’ll still have to measure in person to be absolutely sure. Think of this chart as, uh, 99% correct for most cases, with enough weird exceptions out there that it’s worth breaking off the tape measure every single time.

The 9-in was as much a part of Ford’s performance DNA as the small blocks and big blocks bolted in front of it. Think about the golden age of Ford performance, and odds are a trusty 9-in was quietly holding it all together in the background. Ford’s early muscle trucks and SUVs thrived on its strength, and off-roaders have relied on its durability for decades. But let’s be real, nothing’s perfect. While the 9-in is legendary for toughness, it’s not without its quirks. One common knock is it can sap a bit more horsepower than, say, a more modern design. The culprit here is the pinion angle and how the gears mesh. The 9-in has a deeper pinion offset with a third bearing supporting it. It’s like giving the pinion gear its own personal security detail. Extra bearings equal extra stability, but it also costs you in a smidge of efficiency.

Another thing to consider: if you score a vintage 9-in at a salvage yard, it’s probably due for a rebuild. Bearings, seals, and gears don’t last forever, and given the age of some of these axles, you might be buying a project instead of a plug-and-play solution. That said, parts are everywhere, and the simplicity of the design makes it very approachable for a rebuild. When it comes to maintenance, the 9-in keeps things pretty simple: fresh gear oil, clean wear patterns, and healthy bearings and seals—that’s all it takes to keep the 9-in happy.

For high torque or horsepower setups, you probably want to step up to stronger shafts and a nodular iron third member. It’s a beefed-up aftermarket version of the stock center section. And if you’re restoring a classic Ford and want to keep it period correct, a stock 9-in axle might be enough. But if you’re building a resto mod or a serious race car, don’t hesitate to step up to high-performance parts because the aftermarket offers everything from modern limited slip differentials and lockers to advanced torque biasing setups that send power where it’s needed most.

Comparing the Ford 9-in to other axles in the Ford family tree brings up some interesting points. For instance, the 8-in axle was decent for mild street cars, but it lacked the raw strength of the 9-in. The Ford 8.8, introduced later, is a solid and lighter option with decent aftermarket support; however, it’s harder to swap gears in and is often seen as less durable under serious power. So the 9-in remains the gold standard for Ford rear ends, and that’s not just a FIA talking. It’s easy to swap gear ratios, unmatched aftermarket support, and decades of proven durability still set it apart from the pack.

Of course, if you’re a Chevy or Mopar guy, you might be shouting, “What about the 12-bolt or the 8 and 3/4?” They’re no slouches. I mean, the Mopar 8 and 3/4 even uses a dropout center just like the 9-in, and the Chevy 12-bolt has loyal fans who will swear it’s just as strong with slightly less power loss. But what makes the 9-in special is its insane aftermarket and that bulletproof third bearing pinion support.

The Ford 9-in axle is an ideal upgrade for your classic muscle Mustang project or a modern resto mod. I’ve said that before. If you’ve got a Fox Body Mustang, a Crown Vic front end swapped F100 or F-150, the 9-in can tie your build together nicely. It’s not always a direct bolt-in; you might need to narrow the housing, spring perches, or order a custom width unit for your setup. Once it’s installed, though, the 9-in becomes the ultimate rear-end playground. Whether it’s swapping gear ratios, adding limited slip differentials, or upgrading to rear disc brakes, it’s all about grabbing parts off the shelf and turning wrenches—not reinventing the wheel.

I mean, I know I sound like a broken record, but when it comes to aftermarket support, the Ford 9-in stands in a league of its own. The term here might be global phenomena. You can pick up brand new housings that mimic the originals or go all in with fabricated designs that look ripped straight out of NASCAR. You can literally put together the parts for a 9-in build from scratch in your underwear while eating Cheetos and staring at the Jegs or Racing logo. Axle shafts, choose from hardened steel alloys, beef your spline counts, and custom links tailored to your build. Differentials, everything’s on the table, from vintage-style limited slips to modern lockers and torque-sensing units that were pure sci-fi in the 9-in heyday.

The 9-in’s iconic status means the companies never stopped innovating. They’ve pushed the design and materials far beyond what Ford’s original engineers could have imagined back in the ’60s and ’70s. Of course, just because you can throw every part in the catalog at your axle doesn’t mean you should. You know, the real beauty of the 9-in is flexibility. It could be as simple or as tricked out as you want. Yeah, if you’re rocking a mildly warmed-over 302 or P51 Windsor, a stock 9-in with a refresh limited slip might be all you need. If you’re cranking out some serious horsepower with a big block or a stroked small block, consider the upgraded components. The real beauty is choice. You’re not locked into one ratio or spline count; you won’t be stuck hunting for rear parts. It’s all right at your fingertips, which is why the 9-in remains just as relevant today as it was decades ago.

I mean, the 9-in is more than just metal; it’s a piece of heritage. It’s a nod to an era when Detroit churned out parts built to last. Racers bent the rules to use it, gearheads embraced it, and modern builders still rely on it. Sure, it’s got some imperfections—a bit more parasitic loss, the occasional rebuild, maybe some extra weight compared to newer designs—but in return, you get a proven track record and limitless tuning potential. And that, that’s the secret sauce, my friends. The 9-in rear end earned its stripes the hard way, on the track, in the garage, and under the wrench. That is why even now, when you think of building a classic Ford or stuffing something monstrous under that old chassis in your garage, the Ford 9-in is the first thing that comes to mind. It’s a piece of history, a symbol of strength, and the ultimate guardian of your precious horsepower.

And all that said, you know, going into my own build, I figured the 8.8 was more than up to the task. My plan was simple: throw in some chromoly axles, lock in a solid gear ratio, and call it good for my 408 stroker build. But man, after digging deeper into the Ford 9-in axle, I’m starting to rethink that. I mean, the 8.8 has got plenty going for it—it’s lighter, it’s cheaper, doesn’t need a total rework. On the other hand, the 9-in is that bulletproof insurance policy that I’ve been talking about. Okay, easy gear swaps, legendary reputation, and massive aftermarket support. I mean, now while 450 horses, which is my target, doesn’t necessarily demand it, a 9-in would give me peace of mind, you know, whether I want to crank up the power later or just want to surprise somebody.

Now I’m in a classic builder dilemma: stick with the tried and true 8.8, beef it up, and save some cash, or go all in on a 9-in and never look back. I mean, seriously, guys, what do you think? Should I stick with the upgrade at 8.8 or take the leap to the big league 9-in? I mean, let me know because honestly, I’m still on the fence. Put your opinion in the comments, and as usual, if you learned something today, I really appreciate that. Like and subscribe; it really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop it in the comments and let me know. And as always, thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. Away getting things to shine, and oh, NOS G, she’s ConEd Divine. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.