Tag Ford F-Series

So you want to talk about a defining but often overlooked feature of Ford trucks in the second half of the 20th century? Sure, you’re going to the right place, but don’t expect an all about the legendary Windsor V8s, bold styling, rock solid rear axles, or groundbreaking transmissions. No, today we’re talking about getting groceries.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and if you’re like me and groceries feel more like a luxury these days, maybe you’ve got some time to learn about one of Ford’s wildest ideas: the twin I-beam and twin traction beam suspensions. These engineering marvels made everything from grocery runs to off-road adventures more comfortable while driving alignment techs crazy in the process. Today, we’re going to dig into what makes this system brilliant, bizarre, and downright infuriating. So settle in, it’s going to be a cushy ride.

Hello! Ford’s twin I-beam suspension debuted in 1965 on the F-series trucks. The goal was simple: create a suspension that combined the strength of a solid axle with the comfort of independent suspension. And let’s be honest, Ford absolutely nailed the durability part. This setup could take a beating on a rugged job site or muddy trail and still bring it home in one piece. The twin I-beam was revolutionary for its time. Instead of a single solid axle running across the front, Ford split it into two beams, each mounted to the frame on its own pivot point. The design gave each wheel independent movement while maintaining the strength needed for a truck.

Fast forward to the early 80s, and Ford evolved the concept into the twin traction beam for their 4×4 models. The TTB added a differential to the mix, allowing for independent movement in an off-road capable drivetrain. These designs stuck around for decades. The twin I-beam was a staple in Ford’s two-wheel drive trucks, while the twin traction beam dominated the front ends of 4×4 models well into the ’90s. And though they’ve been replaced by more modern systems, today they remain a favorite for off-road enthusiasts and anyone who appreciates overbuilt engineering.

So let’s head over to my stripped-down 1995 F-150 chassis, and I can break the system down and show you how these parts work together. The twin I-beam consists of two large forged steel beams. Each beam pivots on a frame-mounted bracket and connects to the wheel hub at the outer end. Ford engineered these beams to be tough because they had to be. These trucks weren’t just for show; they worked hard hauling, towing, and tackling rough terrain. Each beam uses a radius arm to control forward and backward movement. These arms connect the beams to the frame, providing stability. Coil springs or leaf springs, depending on the model, support the truck’s weight while shocks handle the damping.

The twin traction beam builds on this concept by adding a front differential and CV axles. This setup enables four-wheel drive functionality while retaining independent beam movement. The main tweak is that one beam is split to house the differential, with a slip joint handling axle length changes during suspension movement.

Okay, so let’s get into the fun stuff. First, I’ll jack up one wheel to show you how independent articulation works. Notice how one wheel moves while the other stays put? That’s the magic of a twin I-beam. It’s kind of like an independent suspension but keeps the rugged simplicity of a solid axle design. Those pivot points are doing all the heavy lifting here. I’ll grab a level, and watch this. As the suspension travels, you’ll see the camber angle shift. This dynamic camber is one of the system’s quirks. While it’s awesome for off-road capability, it’s a nightmare for tire wear and alignment precision. Alignment techs watching this are probably groaning already, and yeah, I get it. Let me show you something. Here’s an image of my chassis before I took the engine and transmission off, and here it is afterwards. You see the dramatic difference in camber? If that’s not a quirk, then I don’t know what is.

Finally, let’s take a closer look at the wear points here at the bushings. You can see how years of hard work and rough roads take their toll. The ball joints and radius arm mounts are other common failure points. If you’re running one of these, keep an eye on these parts. They’ll save you a headache later.

The twin I-beam debuted on the 1965 F-series and remained a go-to for Ford’s two-wheel drive trucks through the late ’90s. The twin traction beam arrived in 1980, making its debut in the F-series and Bronco 4×4 models. It stuck around until the late ’90s too, when Ford moved to more modern independent front suspension designs. These systems showed up on everything from work trucks to off-road rigs. They even gained popularity on custom builds and Baja racers, thanks to their durability and the ability to handle heavy loads in extreme terrain.

But while the twin I-beam and TTB are undeniably tough, they are definitely not perfect. With dynamic camber changes, uneven tire wear is practically a guarantee without regular alignments, and their long beams can sometimes bend under extreme stress, though it’s pretty rare in normal everyday use. When it comes to maintenance, keep an eye on the bushings, ball joints, and radius arm mounts. These points take a lot of abuse and tend to wear out faster than the other parts. Replacing them isn’t hard, but using quality parts will save you from constant repair.

Ford’s modern independent front suspensions are far more refined and easier to maintain, but they don’t have the rugged simplicity of the twin I-beam and TTB. Solid axles, like those in many Dodge and Jeep models, offer better articulation and strength for serious off-roading, but they give up that cushy ride comfort that Ford I-beams are known for. For most drivers, the twin I-beam and TTB strike a balance between comfort and capability that’s pretty hard to beat. Off-road enthusiasts love their durability and how well they handle abuse.

So how did the twin I-beam and TTB stack up against the competition? Well, let’s take a look. So double wishbone, sure, they offered better handling and more predictable camber angles, but they couldn’t match the sheer durability and off-road prowess of the twin I-beam. Ford went for toughness and ride comfort instead of sharp road manners. But what about solid axles in the front, you say? Well, Dodge and GM stuck with solid axles, and while these were rugged and offered excellent articulation for off-road use, they often rode rougher than the Ford T-I-beam. They also sent more vibration and noise into the cab, which made them less ideal for daily driving, you know, and getting groceries.

For off-roaders, the TTB was a revelation. It combined the durability of the twin I-beam with the added traction of a four-wheel drive drivetrain, giving enthusiasts a suspension that thrived on both trails and highways. But the TTB’s complex geometry made it harder to maintain than the simpler solid axle setup. Aligning a twin I-beam or TTB suspension is a dying art. Unlike standard suspensions, where alignment usually means tweaking camber, caster, and toe, the twin I-beam’s dynamic camber needs a deeper understanding of how it moves under load. Most alignment shops struggle with these setups because the knowledge has faded over time. The beams, pivots, and radius arms create unique challenges. Getting the alignment right often means using specialized shims to fine-tune camber and caster angles. Those shims need to be carefully chosen based on the truck setup and how you plan to use it. Inexperienced techs can throw off the alignment, causing uneven tire wear and bad handling.

If you’re looking for a shop to align your twin I-beam or TTB equipped truck, look for older, experienced techs or specialists who know classic Ford systems. Bringing a service manual or alignment spec can help make sure the job gets done right, if they’ll let you do that. If you’re a shade tree mechanic, you might be able to handle a basic alignment on twin I-beam or TTB suspension with some common tools. Now, it’s not going to replace a professional setup with the proper tools, but it can improve handling and tire wear until you can get it done professionally.

So here’s how you tackle it. Okay, so if you’re doing this yourself, here’s what you’re going to need: a camber gauge like the one I showed you earlier, or just a straight edge, and a level, tape measure, some jack stands, and wrenches and sockets, and some alignment shims for the camber and caster adjustments. Got all that stuff? Okay, great. Here’s what you do. First, check your ride height. You got to make sure the truck’s sitting at its normal ride height with all the usual weight installed: engine, transmission, you name it. The suspension geometry depends on load, so skipping this step can throw off all your adjustments.

Next, you measure the camber by using a camber gauge or a straight edge and level against the wheel. Compare what you measure to the factory specs. If you need to adjust, you’ll add or replace shims at the beam pivot points. Third step is to set your toe. Grab your tape measure and check the distance between the front and rear edges of the tires. You want the front measurement to be just a little closer than the rear for a slight toe-in. Adjust the tie rods to dial it in. Step four, adjust your caster. This one’s a bit trickier. Caster adjustments require shimming at the radius arms. You want to consult a service manual here to make sure you get it right. And finally, the final check. Once everything’s adjusted, go back and recheck all your measurements, then take the truck out for a short drive. If it pulls to one side or chews through tires, then you know you need to tweak it some more. I know it’s not very specific; go out and get a shop manual, but really, that’s your best friend in a situation like this. And while this process can help in a pinch, a professional alignment is still the gold standard for proper geometry. But hey, this is a great way to get your hands on with your suspension and learn more about your truck.

One good thing about this type of suspension is that the aftermarket has fully jumped on with the twin I-beam and TTB. Upgraded radius arms, beam braces, and heavy-duty bushings are easy to find and can boost strength and performance. Lift kits are a favorite too, giving you more ground clearance and room for bigger tires. Off-roaders love the TTB for its massive potential. With the right upgrades, these systems can dominate pretty much anything: rock crawling, desert racing, you name it. It’s no wonder why they still have a loyal fan base decades after rolling off the line.

Ford pushed the twin I-beam suspension as a breakthrough in truck design back in the day. Ford ads used animated diagrams to show off how the suspensions work, highlighting their independent movement and durability. The TTB built on this legacy, becoming a legend in the off-road world, especially in Baja racing, where modified versions still compete today. Plenty of aftermarket long travel kits for desert racing take inspiration from the TTB’s design, proving its lasting impact on off-road technology. Enthusiasts love how overbuilt these suspensions are, which is why they’re still favorites for restoration and custom builds.

And that’s the quick and dirty story of Ford’s twin I-beam and twin traction beam suspensions: rugged, innovative, and a little quirky, just like the trucks they come on. Love them or hate them, you have to respect the engineering behind these designs. They’ve stood the test of time and remain a favorite among enthusiasts.

So there you go, guys, everything I know or pretend to know about the twin I-beam and twin traction beam suspension. Again, like I always say, if you learned something, give me a like and subscribe. That really helps me out; I appreciate it. Go get yourself a cool hat, and if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, if I missed something, if you just want to yell at me for some reason, stick it in the comments. Once again, guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time. But she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. Oh no, garage, she’s considered div. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.

This is the Ford E4OD transmission, born at the Sharonville transmission plant in Ohio. This powerhouse was designed to haul the C6’s legendary toughness into the modern age. E4OD wasn’t just a warmed-over version of old ideas; it was Ford’s answer to a new world where trucks had to tow campers, tall boats, climb mountains, and still cruise highways without bleeding your wallet dry at every pump.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and today we’re talking about the E4OD transmission. True to its name, electronic four-speed overdrive, this mechanical marvel packed overdrive, electronic controls, and a chance at better fuel economy in Ford’s toughest trucks and SUVs, all while keeping the heavy-duty muscle Ford fans expected from the C6. But what’s really going on inside this hulking aluminum-clad marvel? What’s made it a hero for truck fans, a headache for mechanics, and a talking point at swap meets for over 30 years? Stick around as we unpack its history, tackle its quirks, and figure out why the E4OD still pulls its weight, and maybe, just maybe, why it deserves a spot under your truck. That is, if it’s not already there.

Hello! The E4OD hit the scene in 1989, just as the automotive world was shifting gears. Trucks weren’t just workhorses anymore; they were daily drivers, highway cruisers, and everything in between. Ford needed a transmission that could deliver both towing power and monitor efficiency, and this E4 was their answer. Built on the foundation of the C6, Ford’s legendary three-speed automatic, it came with some major upgrades by keeping the C6’s rugged planetary gear set and beaky design, but adding an overdrive fourth gear, a lockup torque converter, and electronic controls. The E4OD bridged the gap between the C6’s old-school toughness and the modern features demanded by a new generation of Ford truck owners.

Let’s talk about the specs. The E4 features four forward gears and reverse gear ratios are 2.71 to 1 in first, 1.54 to 1 in second, 1 to 1 in third, and 0.71 to 1 in fourth for highway-friendly overdrive. Reverse comes in at 2.18 to 1. It is a big heavy-duty unit, tipping the scales at approximately 230 lbs dry. It holds between 17 and 18 quarts of transmission fluid completely dry, with Mercon automatic transmission fluid recommended. But there’s an important caveat regarding Mercon fluid, which I’ll get to in a bit. Stay tuned for that.

The case is made from aluminum to cut weight while staying durable. Early models came with cast iron tail shaft housings, but most later versions switched to aluminum to shave off even more weight. The lockup torque converter is a standout feature built to boost efficiency by cutting slippage at cruising speeds. Unlike traditional torque converters that rely entirely on fluid, the E4’s lockup converter uses a clutch to form a direct mechanical link between the engine and the transmission. This touchdown on heat boosts fuel economy and makes the E4 a dependable performer for towing and highway cruising. While it wasn’t the first lockup design in the industry, its use in the E4OD was key to keeping durability front and center, making it a trusted choice for both commercial and personal trucks.

For 1989, the E4’s electronic controls brought a new level of sophistication to Ford’s heavy-duty lineup. A transmission control module, or TCM, monitored inputs like throttle position, vehicle speed, and engine load to manage shift points, line pressure, and torque converter lockup. This level of adaptability made the E4OD more responsive and efficient, no matter the conditions. Keeping pace with the industry’s move toward electronic transmission control, the E4OD was installed in a wide range of vehicles from 1989 to 1998. It was a staple in F-series trucks, including the F-150, F-250, and F-350, as well as Broncos and E-series vans. It was paired with a wide range of engines, from the dependable 300 inline 6 to the burly 460 big block and International Harvester’s II diesels. To accommodate these engines, Ford produced the E4 with distinct bell housing patterns: small block, big block, and diesel.

This one here is a small block. The small block version works with engines like the 302, 351 Windsor, and the 360. The big block version is for the 460, while the diesel version is designed for engines like the 6.9 L and the 7.3 L IDI. While the big block and diesel bell housings might look similar, they have different bolt patterns and aren’t directly interchangeable. Modifying one to fit another engine isn’t a simple task; it requires significant machining and custom adaptive plates. Unless you’re a seasoned fabricator with the right tools, it’s best just to use the correct bell housing for your engine to ensure proper alignment and operation.

While the E4 was primarily used in Ford’s consumer trucks and vans, its robust design made it suitable for specialized commercial and industrial applications too. You’ll find it in vehicles like ambulances, motor homes, and shuttle buses built on Ford’s E-series and F-series chassis. Its heavy-duty capabilities made it a popular choice for upfitted vehicles that required reliable performance under demanding conditions.

Now let’s talk about what this transmission does well and where it sometimes struggles. When it comes to strengths, it stands out for its durability and towing capacity. Built on the bones of the C6, it can handle a serious amount of torque. The overdrive gear and lockup torque converter also made it a huge forward in fuel efficiency, especially for highway driving. Its Achilles’ heel? Overheating. That’s why adding an auxiliary transmission cooler isn’t just a good idea; it’s a must if you plan to tow or haul. Another issue is solenoid pack failures. The good news? They’re fixable. The bad news? Diagnosing that problem can be tricky without the right tools. And then there’s the oil pan. Surprise, surprise! E4 doesn’t even have a drain plug. That means changing the fluid requires dropping the whole pan, which is messy and time-consuming unless you know a handy trick, which I’ll share in a bit.

One of the E4OD’s greatest perks wasn’t even part of the original plan. It’s highly compatible with parts from its successor, the 4R100, introduced in 1998. The 4R100 refined and expanded on the E4’s foundation, and many of its components can be retrofitted into an E4OD to boost performance and durability. Builders often swap in 4R100 clutches, prized for their strength and ability to handle higher torque loads. Solenoid packs and valve bodies from the 4R100 are also popular upgrades, offering more reliable shifting and better line pressure control. While these retrofits aren’t rocket science for a skilled builder, they do demand close attention to compatibility and sometimes even reprogramming the TCM to handle the upgrades.

If gutting a 4R100 is your style, the 4 boasts a full aftermarket ecosystem. Popular upgrades include high-performance valve bodies for firmer, more precise shifts and upgraded clutches known to handle extreme horsepower and torque. Torque converters are another key upgrade; aftermarket models offer higher stall speeds for performance builds or heavy-duty designs for towing and off-road use. To keep things cool, many builders offer deep transmission pans that boost fluid capacity and come with built-in cooling fins. Plus, they typically come with a pre-installed drain plug, a major win for your maintenance.

Advanced controllers like the US Shift, formerly Valman Opti Shift, let you fine-tune shift points, line pressure, and torque converter lockup, giving you total control over your transmission’s behavior. When it comes to maintenance, the E4’s lack of a drain plug on the oil pan, like I mentioned before, can be a real headache. Dropping the pan to change the fluid is messy and time-consuming. However, there is a method to make the process cleaner. You can disconnect the return line from the transmission cooler and direct it into a container. Start the engine briefly, and the transmission’s internal pump will push the fluid out through the line. But here’s the catch: you need to shut the engine off before the fluid flow stops completely to avoid running the pump dry, which can cause serious damage. Refill the pan and repeat until the fluid coming out looks clean. While this method helps refresh much of the fluid, it doesn’t replace all the old fluid in the system. For a complete flush, it’s best to have it done professionally, and for long-term convenience, adding a drain plug to the bottom of the pan is a worthwhile upgrade.

The E4 was originally designed to use Mercon automatic transmission fluid. However, it’s crucial to note that starting in the late 1990s, Ford introduced Mercon 5, a synthetic blend with different friction characteristics. But here’s the catch: Mercon 5 is not backward compatible. Hold up, hold up, wait a minute, wait just a second. I got to explain something. You’ll be back in just a second.

Now, about the whole Mercon versus Mercon 5 debacle, it’s a bit of a soap opera in the transmission world. Back when Ford introduced Mercon 5 in ’97, they explicitly told everyone, do not use this in transmissions that require Mercon. That included our trusty E4OD. Using Mercon 5 back then could mess up your transmission shifting and cause all sorts of headaches because the friction characteristics were different. So the avoid Mercon 5 like the plague mantra started, and for good reason. Fast forward to 2006, and Ford throws us a curveball. They decide to discontinue Mercon and announce that Mercon 5 is now the recommended fluid for all applications that previously used Mercon, including the E4OD. No big reformulation announcement, no flashy new label, not even a new name, just a quiet technical service bulletin saying, hey, Mercon 5 is fine now.

You can imagine the confusion this caused. Enthusiasts, mechanics, and builders were left scratching their heads, wondering if they should trust the new guidance or stick with what they knew. So here is the straight talk: according to Ford, you can use Mercon 5 in your E4OD. But I get it; old habits die hard, and myths stick around. If you’re picking up an E4OD from a junkyard or you’re unsure of its history and you want to play it safe, using a fluid that meets the original Mercon specification won’t hurt. Products like Valvoline Dex/Merc automatic transmission fluid are designed to be compatible with transmissions that require Mercon. Just look for fluids that state they’re suitable for Mercon applications. Using a quality fluid like this ensures you’re keeping the E4OD running smoothly without venturing into Mercon 5 territory. If you’re uncomfortable with it, always remember using the correct fluid is key to your transmission’s health, so taking this extra step ensures you’re doing right by your rig. But if you want to follow Ford’s updated guidance, Mercon 5 is officially approved.

Rebuilding the E4OD is more challenging than working on old automatics like the C6 or C4. The electronics add complexity, and getting the end play just right is absolutely critical. This requires precise tools like a dial indicator because even minor errors can lead to premature wear or failure. A professional rebuild can cost anywhere from $2,000 to $4,000, depending on parts and labor. For builders tackling this job themselves, patience and access to the right tools are key.

Now let’s talk about why someone might choose the E4 for a build or why they might pass on it. The E4OD is a powerhouse of a transmission. It’s built to handle high torque loads, making it a top contender for builds that demand durability. If you’re building something like a towing rig, a heavy-duty hauler, or even an off-road rig, the E4OD can take the abuse. Its electronically controlled overdrive gear adds versatility, sparing you the agony of screaming down the highway in low gear. And with its strong aftermarket support, you can upgrade the internals, add a standalone controller, or install a larger cooler to make it even more capable.

But it’s definitely not the perfect fit for every application. The E4OD is big, heavy, and complex. If you’re working in a lightweight street car like a Mustang or a pure performance build where quick shifts are critical, you might want to consider something like a built C4 or C6, a 4R70W, or even a Powerglide. They’re simpler, lighter, and tailor-made for fast, high RPM shifts. Plus, the E4OD’s size can complicate custom projects; it might take some serious tunnel mods to make it fit smaller vehicles. So while the E4 excels in high torque, multi-purpose builds, other options shine when raw speed or simplicity is the goal. But hey, if you want the bragging rights of cramming a monster transmission into a Fox Body, go for it! I won’t stop you.

Although the E4OD was replaced by the 4R100 in 1998, its legacy lives on. Many of the 4R100’s improvements are direct evolutions of the E4OD design. For truck enthusiasts, this transmission remains a popular choice for retrofits, restorations, and even some high torque drag racing builds, like diesel truck racing. Its mix of durability and modern features makes it a solid candidate for upgrading older vehicles or giving newer ones a performance edge.

So what’s the bottom line? The E4 is more than just a transmission; it’s a milestone in Ford’s engineering evolution. Whether you’re restoring a classic, building a tow rig, or just trying to understand what’s under your truck, the E4 delivers a fascinating blend of old school toughness and modern tech. If you’ve got an E4OD sitting on a pallet like I do, don’t think of it as a relic; it’s an opportunity waiting to be unleashed. Whether you’re selling it, swapping it, or upgrading it, this transmission has a story worth telling and a future worth building.

So there you go, guys! That’s everything that I know, or pretend to know, about the Ford E4OD transmission. I just so happen to have this one here as a visual aid for you guys that I just got done pulling from my donor chassis with my 351 Windsor engine. So, uh, yeah, there it is! If you learned something, uh, like I did doing this video, guys, give me a like and a subscribe; it really helps me out. Uh, go grab yourself a really cool hat from my merch store; that helps me out too. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop it in the comments and let me know. And as always, thanks again for watching, guys! We will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.