Taking the rear brakes apart, cleaning up the wheel and hub assembly, painting the hubs, painting the drum brake hardware, replacing the shoes, replacing the hardware, finally replacing the passenger side parking brake cable, and getting the drum brakes adjusted and ready to go… all that right here in part 2 of the Bullnose Brake Job.

I only had to use a few dozen swear words and suffer two or three busted knuckles to get it done too. Such a win.

Some of the parts / products I used in this video:
Brake hardware:
Strut Spring:
Parking Brake Cable:
Wheel Cylinder – Left:
– Right:
Spring Compressor:
Brake Grease:

Brake job time! This series will cover brake parts cleanup, replacement, and even painting for my 85 F-150. In the first part, I’ll be going over brake inspection, front parking brake cable replacement with the removal and cleanup of the brake mechanism, and I’ll also be painting drums, calipers, and some of the e-brake linkage parts to prevent future rust.

Make sure to subscribe to the channel to see the rest of the series, where I’ll replace all of the rear brake hardware, finish installing the new rear parking brake cable, replace the drums, shoes, hubs, rotors, bearings, pads, calipers and more. I’ll also be doing a short video on speed bleeders – how they work and how to bleed your brakes using them.

All of the products I’m using in this video:

Front Brake Cable:
Calipers – Right:
Paint – High Heat Primer:
Self Etching Primer:
High Heat Black:
Rust Remover:

Painting your tire letters white is an easy, if time consuming, way to get that nice old school look on your tires that you just can’t get anymore from buying them off the shelf. All it takes is a few simple supplies and some time (and patience).

By using an oil based Sharpie paint pen, you can easily color in the letters on your tires. There are some things to take note of though. First, this won’t last forever. Second, it’s time consuming. Third, the look isn’t for everyone. I really like how mine came out though.

I even decided to use some actual titanium white oil paint to do the final coat on the tires, just to give them that little bit extra brightness and to attempt to get them to last longer. I’m not sure I succeeded in the latter though, considering some of the last coat of paint flaked off pretty much as soon as I drove it out of the garage.

Here are the materials I used:
Oil Paint:

Nothing like old school black steel wheels with chrome wheel caps and beauty rings to shine up an old truck. I think these Vision Wheel Soft 8 wheels really add some class.

I like the Soft 8 steel wheels because I can add whatever center caps I want. It’s also nice to have the option to add whatever lug nuts, trim rings, and valve stem covers I want too. Not that you can’t do that on other aftermarket wheels, but the classic black look gives me more of a blank canvas to work with.

I paired the wheels with Cooper Evolution HT tires in 245/75 16. I think they’re the perfect size for the look I’m going for, and they seem to ride great in the few miles I’ve put on them so far. I can’t wait for my tire paint to dry so I can take them all out on the road and do a photo shoot.

The beauty rings, lug nuts, center caps, and valve stem caps are all available on Amazon. Actually the tires and rims are too, but I didn’t get them from there.

Trim/Beauty rings:
Center Caps:
Lug Nuts:
Valve Stem Caps:

The 351 Windsor, or 351w for short, is one of the greatest engines Ford Motor Company ever produced. I’ve done a lot of research on the 351 SBF in preparation for doing an engine swap into the Bullnose, and this video is the culmination of everything I’ve learned. I’ve included year and vehicle charts so you can see which vehicles of which years carried the 351w block and which block years had which features.

Did you know that blocks made before 1974 had more material in the casting, so they’re actually stronger? The deck height isn’t the same for all years of 351 Windsor either. Some later blocks also allow for the use of roller cams instead of flat tappet. Do you know the difference between a 351w, a 351 Cleveland, a 351 Modified, or a 351 HO? In the battle of 351 Windsor Vs 351 Cleveland, why should you pick the Windsor even though the Cleveland is a more powerful engine?

This video goes into all that and even more. I hope you find the information as useful as I have, and I hope the video helps put everything into one place so you don’t need to go digging for this information. All the same information is also available on my website at

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What is Engine Fogging? Why fog an engine, and how to fog your engine? Find out in this Bullnose Garage Quick Tip!

Whenever you’re going to store an engine for an extended period of time, say over the winter as is often the case with marine engines, fogging it beforehand is a quick, easy, and inexpensive way to prevent rust and corrosion from invading the top end. As the oil runs down into the pan during a long period of not running, the top end parts such as the pistons, rings, cylinders, and valves can dry out… which can make them more vulnerable to moisture.

Moisture is the enemy, because it can cause rust and corrosion… and even seize your engine if left for long enough. Specially made fogging oil, applied correctly, can coat these parts to prevent moisture from getting in and causing havoc. Learn how to do this simple, quick, and cheap procedure to protect your stored engine from potential catastrophe.

The fogging oil I use:
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Buying from any Amazon links posted here will help out the Channel.