If you’re thinking about upgrading your Ford truck with a 5-speed manual transmission, the ZF5 is one of the best options out there. In this video, I break down everything you need to know about the ZF5, including the differences between the S5-42 and S5-47, compatibility with different engines, and how to handle a ZF5 swap into your truck.

What Makes the ZF5 Special?

The ZF5 is a 5-speed manual that came in Ford trucks from the late ‘80s through the ‘90s. It was built to handle tough jobs like towing and off-roading, and its 5th gear overdrive makes highway cruising a lot smoother compared to older 4-speed transmissions like the NP435. Whether you’re restoring a Ford F-250 or F-350, or you’re working on a Ford Bronco, the ZF5 is a solid option.

The Difference Between the S5-42 vs S5-47

There are two main versions of the ZF5: the S5-42 and the S5-47. The S5-42, made from 1987 to 1994, handles up to 420 lb-ft of torque. It’s great for daily driving and moderate builds. The S5-47, from 1995 to 1998, can take up to 470 lb-ft, making it the better option for heavier-duty trucks and more powerful engines.

Which Ford Trucks Came With a ZF5?

The ZF5 was found in:

• Ford F-250 (1987-1997)
• Ford F-350 (1987-1998)
• Ford Bronco (1987-1996)
• Ford E-Series Vans (1988-1996)

Each truck had different bellhousing patterns – small block, big block, or diesel – so if you’re planning a ZF5 swap, make sure the transmission matches your engine.

Why Choose a ZF5?

So why would you go for the ZF5? It’s tough, reliable, and gives you that 5th gear overdrive, which is a huge improvement for highway driving. Whether you’re towing, off-roading, or just want something more durable, the ZF5 is a great fit for most Ford trucks. And because it’s so versatile, you can pair it with everything from a 5.0L Windsor to a 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel.

Thinking About a ZF5 Swap?

If you’re planning a ZF5 swap, there are a few things to keep in mind:

• 4×4 vs. 4×2: These configurations are not interchangeable, so make sure you get the right one for your drivetrain.
• Driveshaft Modifications: You might need to modify your driveshaft for the ZF5 to fit properly.
• Crossmember Adjustments: Depending on your truck, you may also need to adjust the crossmember to get everything lined up.

Common Issues with the ZF5

Like any transmission, the ZF5 has a few common issues, but they’re generally easy to fix. Synchro wear on 2nd and 3rd gears can make shifting tricky, but regular maintenance can help. Another issue to watch out for is input shaft bearing noise, which can lead to whining under load. And finally, shift fork wear can cause poor gear engagement over time, but replacing them during a rebuild will keep your ZF5 running smoothly.

Pricing and Availability

A used ZF5 transmission usually costs between $400 and $1,200, depending on condition and configuration. If you want a rebuilt ZF5, expect to pay around $1,200 to $3,000. Rebuild kits typically range from $400 to $600 if you’re planning to do it yourself.

Conclusion

In the end, the ZF5 transmission is a fantastic option for anyone looking to upgrade their Ford truck. Whether you’re going with the S5-42 for a lighter build or the S5-47 for heavy-duty use, the ZF5 delivers the strength and reliability you need. Make sure to check out the video for a full breakdown and all the tips you need to know before starting your own ZF5 swap.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Howdy folks! Ed here from Bullnose Garage.

Today, I tackled a project that’s been on my to-do list: replacing the wiper motor, washer pump, and upgrading the wiper washer switch on my 1985 Ford F-150. All three components had seen better days—they were basically garbage. The wiper motor was inconsistent, the washer pump barely worked, and the old high-low wiper switch just wasn’t cutting it anymore.

Removing the Cowl and Wiper Arms

The first step was to remove the wiper arms and the cowl to access the wiper system components. Here’s how I did it:

1. Removing the Wiper Arms: I used a screwdriver to lift the small tab at the base of each wiper arm, allowing me to wiggle them off their posts.
2. Taking Off the Cowl: I removed several Phillips screws along the top and carefully lifted the cowl off. It’s a bit tricky, especially if you’re doing it solo, but patience is key. Be cautious to avoid scratching your paint—taking off the hood can make this easier.

Replacing the Washer Pump and Cleaning the Reservoir

The washer fluid pump is one of the easier components to replace:

• Removing the Reservoir: I unbolted the reservoir and disconnected the old pump.
• Cleaning: The reservoir was pretty grimy, so I gave it a good scrub.
• Installing the New Pump: I popped the new pump into place and reattached the hoses.

Upgrading to an Intermittent Wiper Switch

One of the best modern upgrades for these old trucks is adding intermittent wipers. My F-150 didn’t have this feature from the factory, so I sourced an intermittent wiper switch from eBay for about $80.

• Removing the Old Switch: I took off the knobs for the wiper and headlight switches and removed the dash panel.
• Installing the New Switch: The new switch plugged right into the existing harness. I had to find a good ground for it, which is crucial for proper operation.

Troubleshooting and Grounding Issues

Initially, I faced some problems:

• Clicking Noise: The intermittent wiper module was clicking, and the wipers weren’t working correctly.
• Solution: It turned out to be a grounding issue for the wiper motor. Ensuring a solid ground connection fixed the problem.

Replacing the Wiper Motor with Modifications

The new wiper motor I bought required some modifications to fit:

• Swapping the Arms: The mounting arm on the new motor was different from the original. I had to swap the old arm onto the new motor.
• Adjusting the Fit: The hole on the old arm was smaller, so I filed the motor slightly to fit onto the new motor’s shaft.
• Reinstalling: Once modified, I installed the new motor, ensuring it was correctly zeroed before attaching the wiper arms.

Testing and Final Adjustments

With everything installed:

• Testing the Wipers: I tested all settings—intermittent, slow, and fast. Everything worked smoothly.
• Washer Nozzle Issues: The new washer hose from Amazon was of lower quality than the original. I decided to keep the original hose and nozzle after cleaning them.
• Final Thoughts on Old vs. New Parts: Sometimes, the original parts are superior in quality to new aftermarket replacements.

Conclusion

This project was a mix of straightforward replacements and some tricky modifications. Upgrading to intermittent wipers has been a game-changer for my driving experience. If you’re considering similar upgrades on your Bullnose F-150, I hope my experience helps you out.

Remember:

• Take your time with disassembly to avoid damaging parts.
• Ensure good grounding for all electrical components.
• Don’t hesitate to reuse original parts if they’re in good condition.

Feel free to leave comments if you have any questions or tips from your own experiences!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Howdy folks! Ed here from Bullnose Garage.

After nearly five years of anticipation, I finally rolled up my sleeves and began the teardown of my 351 Windsor engine. I snagged this 1995 F-150 chassis, complete with the legendary 351 Windsor and E40D transmission, for just $500. Little did I know, this investment would not only kickstart my 408 Stroker build but also turn into a profitable venture.

The Beginning of the Teardown

The day I started dismantling the engine was a mix of excitement and a bit of nervousness. As someone who’s not a professional mechanic, I knew there would be challenges ahead. But that’s all part of the journey, right?

Uncovering Valuable Parts

The first components to come off were the cruise control module and the throttle cable. These were easy picks, sitting right on top and connected to the throttle body linkage. Just like that, I added $75 to the kitty!

Next up was the alternator—a 3G model. While it won’t fit my Bullnose due to its side-mount design, it’s still worth a cool $40. If you haven’t considered a 3G alternator swap for your older truck, I highly recommend it. Check out my video on how to do it—it’s an easy mod that makes a significant difference.

The Not-So-Glamorous Moments

Of course, not everything was smooth sailing. The brake fluid reservoir had rotted away after years in the southwestern sun, making it impossible to drain without a mess. And let’s not forget the bolts that were practically welded together with rust. Those went straight to the trash.

There were also surprises like the previous owner cutting the wires to the injectors. That wiring harness could have been worth $80, but sometimes you have to take the bad with the good when inheriting someone else’s project.

Using AI to My Advantage

Throughout the teardown, I leaned heavily on AI technology. It’s like having a mechanic buddy in my pocket. Need to identify a part or find its value? Just ask. It saved me time and helped me make informed decisions about what to keep, sell, or toss.

If you’re curious about how AI can assist in automotive projects, let me know! I’m considering making a video about it.

Counting the Profits

By the end of my four-day teardown, spread over three weeks, I was thrilled with the results. Here’s a quick rundown:

• Cruise Control Module & Throttle Cable: $75
• Alternator (3G model): $40
• Smog Pump and Bracket: $155
• A/C Compressor: $80
• Upper Intake Manifold: $150
• Power Steering Pump and Bracket: $115

And that’s not even including the transmission, differential, or wheels yet!

What’s Next?

This teardown is just the beginning. I’m gearing up for an exciting 408 Stroker build, and I want you to join me every step of the way.

• Getting the Chassis into the Garage: It’s heavier than it looks, and I’ve got a plan to move it without its own power.
• Full Engine Teardown: We’ll dive deep into the internals, examining how the engine has been treated and what needs replacing.
• Machine Shop Insights: I’ll take the block to a machinist, covering available services, costs, and why you might need them.
• The Build Process: From selecting components like camshafts, valves, and lifters to assembling the engine, I’ll explain each choice and its impact.
• Dropping the Windsor into the Truck: After cleaning and prepping the engine bay, we’ll install the engine and get everything hooked up.
• Hitting the Strip: The ultimate goal is to take the truck to the drag strip and see what this rebuilt engine can do in the quarter-mile.

Join Me on This Journey

If you’re as excited as I am about this project, make sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel, hit the bell for notifications, and stay tuned for upcoming videos. Your support means the world to me and helps me bring you more content.

Feel free to leave comments, especially if you have tips or if you know what that mysterious hose I couldn’t identify is!

Support the Build

Want to help fund the build and get some cool merch? Check out my store where you can grab hats, shirts, and more. Every purchase goes a long way.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

If you’ve got an ’80-’86 Bullnose Ford truck, you might’ve noticed that the stock 1G alternator struggles a bit when you start adding modern accessories like headlights, a better stereo, or an electric fan. A great solution is upgrading to a 3G alternator, which offers more power, better reliability, and smoother operation. Let’s break down why this swap is a smart move.

Why Upgrade from a 1G Alternator?

The 1G alternator found in Bullnose trucks puts out around 65 amps—enough for stock operation back in the day, but lacking for modern needs. Once you start adding things like aftermarket lighting or other electronics, the 1G can’t keep up. On top of that, it uses an external voltage regulator and fusible link wiring system, which can overheat and even melt. Think of it like trying to power your house with a flashlight—just not up to the task.

Benefits of the 3G Alternator

The 3G alternator, a mid-90s upgrade, brings quite a few perks:

• More Power: With output ratings from 90 to 130 amps, the 3G provides a big boost over the stock 1G’s 65 amps.
• Better Voltage Regulation: Internally regulated, the 3G eliminates the need for the problematic external regulator, offering more stable power.
• Improved Performance at Idle: You won’t experience dim lights or a stereo cutting out when idling, which are common issues with the 1G. If you’re running accessories like a winch or off-road lights, a 3G upgrade is almost essential.

Finding the Right 3G Alternator

You need to choose a 3G alternator that fits your setup:

• 90 vs. 130 Amp Models: The 90-amp versions have four vent holes in the front rib sections, while the 130-amp models have only two and are physically larger. If your truck has a single V-belt, the 90-amp version is your best bet, as single V-belts can only handle about 100 amps before they start slipping.
• Correct Mounting Ears: The Bullnose trucks require a side-mount alternator, with the ears at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions. Make sure your 3G fits your bracket without requiring major modifications.

Adapting for a V-Belt Setup

Most 3G alternators come with a serpentine pulley, so if your truck uses a V-belt, you’ll need to swap the pulleys. Simply remove the serpentine pulley on the 3G, then install the V-belt pulley from your 1G. You may need a shim to ensure proper alignment and prevent belt rub.

Upgrading Your Wiring

The 3G alternator has a heavy-duty charge stud, requiring a thicker gauge wire (4-gauge recommended) from the alternator to the battery or starter solenoid. Don’t forget to add a mega fuse in line to protect against shorts.

Where to Source a 3G Alternator

The 3G alternators were found in various Ford vehicles from the mid-’90s:

• 1994-95 Mustang (130 amp)
• Ford Taurus, Thunderbird
• E-Series Vans
• Lincoln Continental, Mercury Cougar

You can find these at junkyards, and they’ll bolt right up to your Bullnose with some wiring work. For those who prefer new parts, aftermarket options from companies like PA Performance and Tuff Stuff are available. They offer higher output ratings and often come with the necessary upgraded wiring, V-belt pulleys, and detailed installation instructions.

Why Make the Switch?

Upgrading to a 3G alternator is a solid move for any Bullnose owner dealing with modern electrical demands. It ensures your truck’s power system is up to the task, especially at idle or when using accessories. You’ll enjoy more power, better voltage stability, and reduced risk of overheating wiring—all without the fear of ending up with a melted connector on the side of the road.

Whether you go the junkyard route or choose a new aftermarket 3G, this swap is a great way to future-proof your classic truck and improve performance every time you turn the key.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

In-Depth Look at the Ford 8.8-Inch Axle for Your Bullnose Truck or Mustang

In this video, we take a deep dive into the Ford 8.8-inch axle—one of the most trusted axles in Ford’s lineup. Whether you’re driving a Bullnose F-150 or upgrading your Mustang or Explorer, the 8.8 axle delivers on strength, versatility, and affordability. I’ll walk you through its history, technical specs, comparisons with the 9-inch, Dana 44, and 7.5-inch axles, and why it’s a popular choice for light-duty trucks and performance vehicles. Plus, I’ll share some upgrade tips if you’re planning to push more horsepower or do some serious off-roading.

If you’re thinking about upgrading or maintaining your Bullnose or any Ford with the 8.8 axle, this video’s for you. Grab your wrenches and let’s get into it!

Overview of the Ford 8.8-Inch Axle

Introduced in 1983, the Ford 8.8-inch axle was designed as a cost-effective replacement for the legendary 9-inch axle. It quickly became Ford’s go-to axle for light-duty trucks and performance vehicles. Found in models like the F-150 (1983-2014), Bronco (1983-1996), and Mustang (1986-2014), it offers a great balance of strength and affordability.

Strength and Versatility of the Ford 8.8

One of the 8.8-inch axle’s main advantages is its versatility. It’s tough enough to handle everything from street performance to off-roading. Whether you’re using your vehicle for towing or high-performance driving, the 8.8’s durability makes it a solid choice.

Technical Breakdown: Spline Counts and Gear Ratios

The Ford 8.8 comes with 28-spline or 31-spline axle shafts. While the 28-spline version is standard, the 31-spline is a stronger option for those pushing more horsepower or doing serious off-roading. Gear ratios also range from 2.73:1 to 5.13:1, allowing customization based on driving needs. Common ratios like 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 are popular for their balance between fuel efficiency and off-road performance.

Comparisons with the 9-Inch, Dana 44, and 7.5-Inch Axles

Compared to the Ford 7.5-inch axle, the 8.8 offers significantly more strength, making it suitable for high-torque applications. While not as heavy-duty as the Ford 9-inch axle, the 8.8 is lighter and more affordable, with a vast aftermarket for upgrades. When stacked against the Dana 44, the 8.8-inch holds its own in terms of strength but typically has better gear ratio options for customization.

Tips for Installing or Upgrading the 8.8-Inch Axle

Upgrading your 8.8-inch axle is made easy thanks to its widespread aftermarket support. Popular modifications include installing a limited-slip differential (LSD) for better traction and upgrading to 31-spline axle shafts for added strength. If you’re planning to change your gear ratio, consider how your driving style will benefit—lower ratios improve acceleration, while higher ratios enhance fuel efficiency.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Everything You Need to Know About the Legendary Ford 302 V8: History, Mods, and Common Issues

If you’re a fan of classic Fords, especially the Bullnose trucks from the ’80s, you’ve probably heard about the Ford 302 V8. This engine, also known as the 5.0 liter, has been around for decades, powering everything from Mustangs to F-Series trucks. In my latest video, I take you through the full story of the 302—from its introduction in 1968, all the way to its most popular modifications today.

Why the Ford 302 V8 is Still a Favorite for Engine Swaps

One of the things I love about the 302 is its versatility. Whether you’re restoring a Bullnose Ford or looking to add more power to your build, the 302 is a great option. In the video, I break down exactly why this engine is so well-suited for engine swaps in classic trucks and cars. It’s compact, lightweight, and has a huge aftermarket, which means parts are easy to find and upgrades are affordable.

Common Ford 302 Issues and How to Fix Them

No engine is perfect, and the Ford 302 has its share of common problems. In the video, I talk about some of the most frequent issues, like oil leaks around the valve covers and rear main seal, timing chain stretch, and even overheating in older vehicles. I also share a few tips on how to fix these problems—because, trust me, fixing a leaky 302 is a lot better than dealing with constant oil drips on your garage floor.

Ford 302 Performance Mods: Getting the Most Power Out of Your 5.0

If you’re looking for more power out of your 302, there are plenty of ways to get it. In the video, I cover everything from stroker kits to aftermarket cylinder heads. If you want to push your engine up to 400 or even 500 horsepower, I’ve got some great tips to help you hit those numbers. I also dig into exhaust upgrades and fuel injection conversions that can give your engine better airflow and improve both power and reliability.

Why You Should Watch This Video

Whether you’re working on a full engine swap or just curious about the best mods for the Ford 302, this video is packed with detailed info that’ll help guide your project. If you’ve been searching for reliable 302 performance upgrades, or wondering why this engine is still so popular for classic truck restorations, this video is definitely worth a watch.

Plus, I talk about common questions like:

• How do I choose the right transmission for my Ford 302?
• What’s the best way to fix oil leaks in an old 302?
• What are the best aftermarket heads for a 302 build?

So, if you’re serious about getting the most out of your Bullnose Ford or any project running a 302, give the video a look!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.