Upgrading My Truck’s Stereo System: A $15 Project That Packs a Punch

Hey folks, Ed here! Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. This weekend, I’m diving into a fun little project: upgrading the stereo system in my truck. I’ve got a brand new head unit that only cost me $15 from Amazon, and it’s supposed to have that retro look with Bluetooth and hands-free calling. But let’s be honest, for that price, I’m not sure what to expect!

When I unboxed this head unit, I was surprised by how lightweight it was—there’s hardly anything to it! The real challenge is to see if this budget-friendly option can actually deliver on its promises. Alongside the head unit, I’ve got a rather pricey dual voice coil speaker designed for classic vehicles like mine, which cost around $80 to $90. This speaker integrates both left and right channels into a single dash speaker setup, which is crucial for a vehicle with limited space for audio upgrades.

The plan is simple: get this head unit installed and see if I can finally enjoy some Pandora while cruising around. I also have a set of basic JVC 6.5-inch speakers that will be going in. They might not be top-of-the-line, but they should do the job until I’m ready to invest in a serious audio system with subwoofers and amplifiers.

The Installation Process

Starting off, I need to remove the door panel. It’s a straightforward process—just a couple of screws and some clips to pop off. If you have an older truck like mine, I highly recommend picking up some replacement clips because they tend to break easily during removal. Trust me, nothing’s worse than a rattling door panel!

Once I got the door panel off, I took a look at the existing speaker setup. The current speakers weren’t too bad, but I wanted something better. Swapping out speakers is generally a simple task: just match the positive and negative wires and you’re good to go. If you’re doing a straightforward replacement like I am, there’s really not much to it.

However, as I got deeper into the project, I realized the previous owner had made some modifications that left me with a bit of a wiring mess. They had cut some speaker wires and disconnected the top speaker entirely. This meant I had to do some troubleshooting and potentially rewire everything back to the way it should be.

Troubleshooting the Wiring

It’s not uncommon to run into surprises when working on older vehicles. I discovered that not only had some wires been cut, but the harness that should have been there was missing entirely. Instead of getting frustrated, I decided to take it as a learning opportunity. If you’re ever doing a similar project, always remember: never just cut wires—invest in a proper harness adapter to save yourself a lot of hassle later on.

Once I sorted out the wiring mess, I was ready to install the new speaker. It’s a nice dual voice coil unit, which should give me a better audio experience overall. Although it may not provide the full stereo effect, it should help create a fuller sound when paired with the new head unit.

Testing and Results

After everything was wired up and secured, it was time to test the system. I was pleasantly surprised—despite some dimming issues on the display, the sound quality exceeded my expectations for such a budget-friendly setup. I was able to connect my phone via Bluetooth, making hands-free calling a breeze.

All in all, for $15 on the head unit and $25 on the speakers, I’d say this weekend project was a success. It’s a significant upgrade from the stock setup, and I’m thrilled to finally have Bluetooth in my truck!

I hope you enjoyed this little journey into my weekend project. If you have any questions, comments, or thoughts, feel free to drop them below. Thanks for tuning in, and I’ll see you next time!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage! Today, we’re diving into one of Ford’s most infamous V8 engines—the massive 460 big block. If you’re into power, torque, and classic muscle, this video is for you. The 460 isn’t your typical V8—it’s a 7.5-liter powerhouse that leaves smaller engines in the dust. Originally built in 1968 for heavy-duty work, this engine has powered everything from Ford’s F-Series trucks to luxury Lincolns, motorhomes, and beyond.

In the video, we get hands-on with the 460, breaking down its specs, design, and history, and talking about why it’s still a favorite for engine builders today. Whether you’re curious about its raw stock form or interested in beefing it up with mods, this video covers it all. The 460 may have retired in 1997, but it’s still roaring in custom builds and restoration projects, delivering incredible low-end torque that can pull just about anything.

What Makes the Ford 460 So Special?

The Ford 460 is all about torque. Unlike small blocks like the 302 or 351 Windsor that love to rev high, the 460 was designed to crank out serious pulling power at lower RPMs. Think of it as the strongman of the V8 world, with enough brute force to haul heavy loads and make muscle cars roar. Early versions of the 460 packed up to 365 horsepower and 485 lb-ft of torque, which is impressive even by today’s standards. Emissions regulations slowed it down a bit in the late ‘70s, but with the right mods, you can easily bring back that factory muscle—and then some.

Modding the 460: Taking It to the Next Level

In the video, I also cover some popular modifications for anyone looking to squeeze every last drop of performance out of their 460. From aluminum heads and stroker kits to fuel injection conversions, there are endless ways to bring this big block into modern times. Swapping out the stock cast-iron heads for lightweight aluminum ones from brands like Edelbrock can improve airflow, cut weight, and boost horsepower—making a night-and-day difference if you’re going for more than stock performance.

If you’re really serious, you might consider a stroker kit. This takes the 460’s 7.5 liters of displacement and cranks it up to 514 cubic inches or more, giving you even more torque to play with. And for those looking for a smoother, more efficient ride, fuel injection is a game-changer, especially when paired with a modern ECU that lets you fine-tune the engine for performance and fuel economy.

Why the Ford 460 Still Matters

At the end of the day, the Ford 460 isn’t just a relic—it’s a legend with staying power. Even decades after it left the production line, this engine is still a top choice for classic truck restorations, muscle cars, and custom hot rods. If you’re curious about what makes the 460 such an icon, or thinking about getting your hands on one for a project, check out the video for the full lowdown on Ford’s big block masterpiece.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Ever found yourself staring at a non-running vehicle or heavy chassis, wondering how on earth you’re going to get it into your garage alone? That’s exactly the pickle I found myself in recently. I’ve got this hefty chassis sitting outside, and pushing it uphill into my garage just isn’t happening—especially with that slight incline mocking me every time I look at it.

The Dilemma

Here’s the situation: I’ve got a heavy, non-operational chassis that needs to move from point A (outside) to point B (inside my garage). Towing it with another vehicle isn’t an option due to space constraints and the inability to get a tow vehicle inside the garage. Plus, I’m a one-man show here. Sure, I could ask my wife for help, but she’s juggling the kids, and I prefer tackling these challenges solo when I can.

The Lightbulb Moment

So, how do I, a lone DIY enthusiast, move this beast into the garage without pulling a muscle or two? After some brainstorming—and maybe a bit of head-scratching—I came up with an ingenious solution involving a bolt-on hitch receiver, some concrete anchors, and a trusty come-along winch.

My DIY Solution: Installing a Floor-Mounted Hitch Receiver

I decided to install a hitch receiver directly into my garage floor. This would serve as a solid anchor point for a come-along, allowing me to pull the chassis into the garage smoothly.

Materials I Used:

• Hitch Receiver: https://amzn.to/3YoGlOx
• Shackle Hitch: https://amzn.to/3BKSjcx
• Drop-in Concrete Anchors: https://amzn.to/3Yr0Dav
• Drill Bit: https://amzn.to/3Nt9UbG
• Set Screws (plug screws): https://amzn.to/4f5qTwj
• Screw Bolts: https://amzn.to/4dPEqqM
• Washers: https://amzn.to/4dPEruQ
• Rock Hard Water Putty: https://amzn.to/4eX7IVK

Step-by-Step Installation

1. Choosing the Spot

I picked a spot at the back of my garage where the hitch wouldn’t be a tripping hazard—right next to the back wall and close to an outlet (just in case I upgrade to an electric winch later).

2. Marking and Drilling Holes

• Placed the hitch receiver on the floor as a template.
• Marked the bolt hole locations.
• Used a hammer drill with a masonry bit to drill into the concrete. (Pro tip: a corded hammer drill would’ve been faster, but my cordless one did the job.)

3. Installing the Concrete Anchors

• Inserted the wedge anchors into the holes.
• Hammered them down until they were flush and snug.
• Checked to make sure they didn’t move or spin.

4. Mounting the Hitch Receiver

• Bolted the hitch receiver to the floor using the anchors.
• Ensured everything was tight and secure.
• Attached the shackle hitch mount.

5. Finishing Touches

I’m a bit of a perfectionist, so I wasn’t going to leave those anchor holes looking rough. I mixed up some rock hard water putty and filled in the gaps around the anchors. Once it dried, I sanded it down and painted over it to match the garage floor. Now, when the hitch isn’t in use, I can remove it, and the floor is flush—no tripping hazards here!

Putting It to the Test

With the hitch receiver installed and the come-along connected, it was the moment of truth. I started cranking, and slowly but surely, the chassis began to move up the incline and into the garage. Success!

Why This Setup Rocks

• Solo Operation: I didn’t need to bother anyone for help.
• Cost-Effective: Used materials that are readily available and not overly expensive.
• Safe and Controlled: Having a secure anchor point made the process smooth and reduced the risk of accidents.
• Versatile: This setup isn’t just for this one chassis. I’ll be pulling engines and other heavy equipment in the future, and this anchor point will come in handy.

Thinking Ahead: Upgrading to an Electric Winch

While the come-along works great, I’m considering mounting a 12V electric winch on a hitch receiver tray in the future. With an outlet nearby, I could power the winch and make the process even easier.

Final Thoughts

This project was all about finding a practical solution to a common problem. If you’ve ever been in a similar situation, I hope my experience gives you some ideas. It’s amazing what a little ingenuity and some basic tools can accomplish.

Check Out the Full Process

Want to see the step-by-step and how it all came together? Watch my full walkthrough on YouTube: Moving a Heavy Chassis into My Garage Solo.

Join the Conversation

Have you tried something similar? Think I’m crazy for drilling into my garage floor? Drop a comment below or on the video—I’d love to hear your thoughts and any tips you might have.

By sharing my DIY adventures, I hope to help fellow enthusiasts tackle their own projects with confidence. Remember, with a bit of creativity, no challenge is too big to handle solo!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

If you’re thinking about upgrading your Ford truck with a 5-speed manual transmission, the ZF5 is one of the best options out there. In this video, I break down everything you need to know about the ZF5, including the differences between the S5-42 and S5-47, compatibility with different engines, and how to handle a ZF5 swap into your truck.

What Makes the ZF5 Special?

The ZF5 is a 5-speed manual that came in Ford trucks from the late ‘80s through the ‘90s. It was built to handle tough jobs like towing and off-roading, and its 5th gear overdrive makes highway cruising a lot smoother compared to older 4-speed transmissions like the NP435. Whether you’re restoring a Ford F-250 or F-350, or you’re working on a Ford Bronco, the ZF5 is a solid option.

The Difference Between the S5-42 vs S5-47

There are two main versions of the ZF5: the S5-42 and the S5-47. The S5-42, made from 1987 to 1994, handles up to 420 lb-ft of torque. It’s great for daily driving and moderate builds. The S5-47, from 1995 to 1998, can take up to 470 lb-ft, making it the better option for heavier-duty trucks and more powerful engines.

Which Ford Trucks Came With a ZF5?

The ZF5 was found in:

• Ford F-250 (1987-1997)
• Ford F-350 (1987-1998)
• Ford Bronco (1987-1996)
• Ford E-Series Vans (1988-1996)

Each truck had different bellhousing patterns – small block, big block, or diesel – so if you’re planning a ZF5 swap, make sure the transmission matches your engine.

Why Choose a ZF5?

So why would you go for the ZF5? It’s tough, reliable, and gives you that 5th gear overdrive, which is a huge improvement for highway driving. Whether you’re towing, off-roading, or just want something more durable, the ZF5 is a great fit for most Ford trucks. And because it’s so versatile, you can pair it with everything from a 5.0L Windsor to a 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel.

Thinking About a ZF5 Swap?

If you’re planning a ZF5 swap, there are a few things to keep in mind:

• 4×4 vs. 4×2: These configurations are not interchangeable, so make sure you get the right one for your drivetrain.
• Driveshaft Modifications: You might need to modify your driveshaft for the ZF5 to fit properly.
• Crossmember Adjustments: Depending on your truck, you may also need to adjust the crossmember to get everything lined up.

Common Issues with the ZF5

Like any transmission, the ZF5 has a few common issues, but they’re generally easy to fix. Synchro wear on 2nd and 3rd gears can make shifting tricky, but regular maintenance can help. Another issue to watch out for is input shaft bearing noise, which can lead to whining under load. And finally, shift fork wear can cause poor gear engagement over time, but replacing them during a rebuild will keep your ZF5 running smoothly.

Pricing and Availability

A used ZF5 transmission usually costs between $400 and $1,200, depending on condition and configuration. If you want a rebuilt ZF5, expect to pay around $1,200 to $3,000. Rebuild kits typically range from $400 to $600 if you’re planning to do it yourself.

Conclusion

In the end, the ZF5 transmission is a fantastic option for anyone looking to upgrade their Ford truck. Whether you’re going with the S5-42 for a lighter build or the S5-47 for heavy-duty use, the ZF5 delivers the strength and reliability you need. Make sure to check out the video for a full breakdown and all the tips you need to know before starting your own ZF5 swap.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

Howdy folks! Ed here from Bullnose Garage.

Today, I tackled a project that’s been on my to-do list: replacing the wiper motor, washer pump, and upgrading the wiper washer switch on my 1985 Ford F-150. All three components had seen better days—they were basically garbage. The wiper motor was inconsistent, the washer pump barely worked, and the old high-low wiper switch just wasn’t cutting it anymore.

Removing the Cowl and Wiper Arms

The first step was to remove the wiper arms and the cowl to access the wiper system components. Here’s how I did it:

1. Removing the Wiper Arms: I used a screwdriver to lift the small tab at the base of each wiper arm, allowing me to wiggle them off their posts.
2. Taking Off the Cowl: I removed several Phillips screws along the top and carefully lifted the cowl off. It’s a bit tricky, especially if you’re doing it solo, but patience is key. Be cautious to avoid scratching your paint—taking off the hood can make this easier.

Replacing the Washer Pump and Cleaning the Reservoir

The washer fluid pump is one of the easier components to replace:

• Removing the Reservoir: I unbolted the reservoir and disconnected the old pump.
• Cleaning: The reservoir was pretty grimy, so I gave it a good scrub.
• Installing the New Pump: I popped the new pump into place and reattached the hoses.

Upgrading to an Intermittent Wiper Switch

One of the best modern upgrades for these old trucks is adding intermittent wipers. My F-150 didn’t have this feature from the factory, so I sourced an intermittent wiper switch from eBay for about $80.

• Removing the Old Switch: I took off the knobs for the wiper and headlight switches and removed the dash panel.
• Installing the New Switch: The new switch plugged right into the existing harness. I had to find a good ground for it, which is crucial for proper operation.

Troubleshooting and Grounding Issues

Initially, I faced some problems:

• Clicking Noise: The intermittent wiper module was clicking, and the wipers weren’t working correctly.
• Solution: It turned out to be a grounding issue for the wiper motor. Ensuring a solid ground connection fixed the problem.

Replacing the Wiper Motor with Modifications

The new wiper motor I bought required some modifications to fit:

• Swapping the Arms: The mounting arm on the new motor was different from the original. I had to swap the old arm onto the new motor.
• Adjusting the Fit: The hole on the old arm was smaller, so I filed the motor slightly to fit onto the new motor’s shaft.
• Reinstalling: Once modified, I installed the new motor, ensuring it was correctly zeroed before attaching the wiper arms.

Testing and Final Adjustments

With everything installed:

• Testing the Wipers: I tested all settings—intermittent, slow, and fast. Everything worked smoothly.
• Washer Nozzle Issues: The new washer hose from Amazon was of lower quality than the original. I decided to keep the original hose and nozzle after cleaning them.
• Final Thoughts on Old vs. New Parts: Sometimes, the original parts are superior in quality to new aftermarket replacements.

Conclusion

This project was a mix of straightforward replacements and some tricky modifications. Upgrading to intermittent wipers has been a game-changer for my driving experience. If you’re considering similar upgrades on your Bullnose F-150, I hope my experience helps you out.

Remember:

• Take your time with disassembly to avoid damaging parts.
• Ensure good grounding for all electrical components.
• Don’t hesitate to reuse original parts if they’re in good condition.

Feel free to leave comments if you have any questions or tips from your own experiences!

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

After nearly five years of anticipation, the day has finally arrived—I’m starting the teardown of my 351 Windsor engine. Buckle up and join me on this adventure filled with unexpected surprises, both good and bad, some shocking discoveries, and even a few painful lessons. Oh, and did I mention the profit? Yep, I’m making some cash along the way. You won’t want to miss this!

The Beginning of an Exciting Journey

So, let’s rewind a bit. I picked up this 1995 F-150 chassis equipped with a 351 Windsor engine and an E4OD transmission for just $500—practically a steal! Along with the chassis, I got the ECM, wiring harness, steering column, steering wheel, and the gauge cluster. I’ve already sold the gas tanks, gauge cluster, and steering wheel with the column, putting me well on my way to breaking even. Who knows? I might even turn a profit when all is said and done.

Day One: The Teardown Commences

The first items to come off were the cruise control module and the throttle cable. Both were connected to the throttle body linkage and were right on top—easy pickings. Just like that, I made a quick $25 from the cruise control module.

But then came the first hiccup. While trying to remove one of those stubborn hose clamps with pliers, I managed to pinch my thumb. Ouch! Lesson learned: always use the right tools for the job to avoid unnecessary pain.

Next up was the brake fluid reservoir, which was so deteriorated from sitting in the southwestern sun for five years that it practically crumbled in my hands. There was no clean way to drain it without getting brake fluid everywhere—including my shoes. The bolts were rusted solid, so I ended up removing the entire assembly. Unfortunately, it wasn’t worth anything and went straight into the trash.

By the end of day one, I might not have made monumental progress, but I did pocket $75 and started clearing the way for the real work ahead.

Day Two: Discoveries and AI Assistance

I continued dismantling, removing the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid. Throughout this process, I’ve been using AI tools to help identify parts, check part numbers, and find out their values. It’s like having a mechanic in my pocket, saving me tons of time and energy. If you’re not using AI in your projects, you’re missing out!

I then tackled the alternator—a 3G model. It won’t fit my Bullnose since it’s a side mount and not a pivot mount, so up for sale it goes. That’s another $40 in my pocket. If you’ve got an older truck and haven’t done the 3G alternator swap yet, what are you waiting for? I’ve got a great video on how to do it, and it’s an easy mod that makes a huge difference.

Removing the throttle body was next. Even though it was dirty, once cleaned up, I estimate it’ll bring in about $65. Not bad for a day’s work. By the end of day two, I had added $85 to the tally.

Day Three: More Parts and More Cash

I continued snapping pictures, checking part numbers, and deciding what to keep or sell. Most of the parts aren’t going into my new build, so they’re either heading to the trash or up for grabs on the marketplace.

I removed the smog pump and its bracket. To get the pump off, you typically need to pull the pulley to access the bolts, but I found it easier to remove the entire bracket with the pump still attached. That’s $80 for the smog pump and $75 for the bracket.

The AC compressor came off smoothly since it was already drained. Remember, if you’re removing an AC compressor that’s still charged, handle it safely and legally. That’s another $80 added to the total.

Next was the transmission cooler, which I hope to get around $20 for. I also tackled the power steering pump. The lines were a pain, so I decided to cut them—no value lost there since they weren’t worth anything in their condition. I learned that the power steering lines loop around the front of the chassis for cooling—a neat little discovery.

By the end of day three, I had racked up a cool $255.

Day Four: Overcoming Obstacles

I decided to remove the radiator fan. I even rented a special tool from the parts store, only to find out I didn’t need it—the fan had four regular bolts! With the clutch included, that’s another $80.

The power steering pump came off next, along with its bracket. I’m considering upgrading to a Saginaw pump for my new build, so this one goes into the sale pile—$65 for the pump and $50 for the bracket.

Then came a bit of frustration. The intake manifold had one star bolt tucked down between the intake runners—a different bolt size in an awkward spot. My star bit’s base was too big, but after digging through my tools (never throw anything away!), I found the right size.

When I lifted the upper intake manifold, I discovered that the previous owner had cut all the wires to the injectors. The wiring harness was ruined—a potential $80 down the drain. It was a stark reminder that when you inherit someone else’s project, you take the good with the bad.

Assessing the Progress and Looking Ahead

After four days spread over three weeks, I’ve made significant progress and learned a ton. The engine is looking cleaner, and I’m hoping to get a decent amount of cash from selling parts. The total so far? Let’s just say I’m well past breaking even.

I still have work to do—removing the fuel rails, draining the fluids, and figuring out how to get the chassis into the garage. One of the tires is shot, but I have a plan to move it a short distance.

The Grand Plan: Rebuilding and Beyond

This teardown is just the beginning of an exciting journey. I’m documenting every step as I rebuild this 351 Windsor engine—from pulling it out of the chassis to running it down the strip.

Here’s what’s coming up:

• Moving the Chassis into the Garage: Since it can’t move under its own power, I’ve devised a method to get it inside. Stay tuned for that adventure!
• Engine Removal and Teardown: We’ll dive deep into the engine, inspecting every component, and I’ll share tips on what to look for during a rebuild.
• Machine Shop Visit: I’ll take the block to the machine shop, covering the services they offer, costs, and why they’re essential (or not) for your build.
• Engine Build-Up: From painting the block to selecting components like the camshaft, valves, lifters, and rotating assembly, I’ll walk you through my choices and the reasoning behind them.
• Installation and Testing: Once built, I’ll fire up the engine on a stand before installing it into the truck. We’ll cover the removal of the old engine, cleaning up the engine bay, and getting everything hooked up.
• Hitting the Strip: The ultimate goal is to take the truck to the drag strip and see what this rebuilt engine can do!

Join Me on This Adventure

I’m not a professional mechanic—just a guy with a passion for engines and a desire to learn. I’ve done my homework, read books, and watched countless videos, but there’s always more to discover. I hope to bring in a pro to fill in any gaps and ensure we’re doing everything right.

Whether you’re an experienced gearhead or someone looking to get into engine rebuilding, I invite you to follow along. Together, we’ll navigate the challenges, celebrate the victories, and maybe even make a few bucks along the way.

Don’t Miss Out

If you’re excited about this project and want to stay updated, subscribe to my YouTube channel, hit the bell for notifications, and consider grabbing some merch to support the build.

Got questions, tips, or just want to share your own experiences? Drop a comment on the video. Let’s build a community where we can all learn and grow together.

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.