Category Bullnose Bill Answer

On a 1986 Ford F-150, the gauge cluster uses 194 bulbs for illumination. These are small wedge-base bulbs that are fairly easy to replace. Here’s a quick guide on swapping them out:

Steps to Replace Gauge Cluster Bulbs

1. Disconnect the Battery: Always disconnect the negative battery cable before working on your vehicle’s electrical system to avoid any shorts.

2. Remove the Dash Bezel:

   • Carefully remove any screws holding the bezel in place.
   • Gently pry the bezel off. Be cautious not to break any clips.

3. Access the Cluster:

   • Unscrew the gauge cluster. It’s usually held in by a few screws around the perimeter.
   • Gently pull the cluster towards you, but don’t yank it out. You’ll need to disconnect the wiring harnesses.

4. Replace the Bulbs:

   • Locate the bulb sockets on the back of the cluster. They twist in and out.
   • Remove the old 194 bulbs from their sockets.
   • Install the new bulbs.

5. Reassemble:

   • Reconnect the wiring harnesses.
   • Secure the cluster back into place with the screws.
   • Reattach the dash bezel and its screws.

6. Reconnect the Battery: Once everything is back in place, reconnect the negative battery cable.

Pro Tips

• Check the Sockets: Make sure the bulb sockets are clean and free of corrosion. This ensures good electrical contact.
• Test Before Reassembly: It’s a good idea to test the new bulbs before fully reassembling to ensure they light up.
• Consider LED Upgrades: If you want brighter or different colored lighting, consider upgrading to LED bulbs. Just make sure they’re compatible with your truck.

If you run into any issues or need further guidance, there may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel — worth a look!

Alright, let’s dig into that cold start issue on your 1983 F350 with the 6.9 IDI. You’ve done a lot already, so let’s focus on a few areas that might still be causing trouble.

Glow Plug System

1. Glow Plugs: Make sure they’re all functioning. If even one is dead, it can cause hard starts. Test them with a multimeter: they should show low resistance. Replace any faulty ones with quality plugs like Motorcraft or Beru.

2. Glow Plug Relay: Check if the relay is clicking on and off as it should. If it’s not functioning, the plugs won’t heat properly.

3. Controller: The glow plug controller can sometimes be the culprit. Verify that it’s sending power to the glow plugs for the correct duration.

Fuel Delivery

1. Air Leaks: Double-check for any air leaks in the fuel lines, especially since you’ve replaced them. Air in the system can lead to starting issues.

2. Fuel Pump Pressure: Since you’ve switched to an electric fuel pump, confirm it’s delivering the correct pressure (around 4-6 PSI for the 6.9 IDI).

Engine Timing

1. Injection Timing: If the timing is off, it can lead to hard starts and excessive smoke. Ensure the injection pump is correctly timed. A slight advance or retardation can make a big difference.

Electrical System

1. Battery and Cables: Ensure the batteries are strong and the cables are clean and tight. The starter needs a good supply to crank effectively, especially in cold weather.

Other Tips

• Block Heater: Using a block heater in colder weather can make a big difference. If you don’t have one, consider adding it.

• Ether Use: Avoid using ether regularly, especially if your glow plugs are active—it can cause damage.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve covered all these and still face issues, there may be a deeper problem, like compression loss, which would require further inspection.

Remember, the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) is also a great place to connect with others who might have faced similar issues. Keep at it—you’re on the right track!

Great! What would you like to know or do with your 1986 F-150? Looking for repair advice, maintenance tips, or maybe some upgrade ideas? Let me know!

Keeping your 1986 F250 with the 7.5L V8 running smoothly involves regular maintenance. Here’s a solid checklist to follow:

Engine Maintenance

1. Oil and Filter Change

   • Change every 3,000 miles or every six months.
   • Use a quality oil filter and the recommended oil grade (typically 10W-30).

2. Air Filter Replacement

   • Check every 12,000 miles and replace if dirty.
   • Consider a high-flow aftermarket option for better performance.

3. Fuel System

   • Replace the fuel filter every 24,000 miles.
   • Consider a fuel system cleaner to keep injectors clean.

4. Cooling System

   • Inspect the radiator, hoses, and water pump for leaks.
   • Flush and replace coolant every 2 years.

Ignition System

• Spark Plugs and Wires

  • Replace spark plugs every 30,000 miles.
  • Inspect and replace wires if they’re cracked or worn.

• Distributor Cap and Rotor

  • Check for wear and replace if necessary.

Transmission and Drivetrain

1. Transmission Fluid and Filter

   • Change every 30,000 miles.
   • Make sure to use the correct type of ATF for your transmission.

2. Transfer Case Fluid

   • Change fluid every 30,000 miles for 4×4 systems.

3. Differential Fluid

   • Inspect and replace every 60,000 miles.

Brakes and Suspension

1. Brake System

   • Check pads, rotors, and lines every 10,000 miles.
   • Bleed the brake system every 2 years to replace fluid.

2. Suspension and Steering

   • Inspect bushings, ball joints, and tie rods for wear.
   • Lubricate steering components regularly.

Tires and Alignment

• Tire Rotation

  • Rotate tires every 6,000-8,000 miles to ensure even wear.

• Alignment Check

  • Get the alignment checked yearly, or if you notice uneven tire wear.

General Tips

• Battery and Electrical System

  • Clean battery terminals and check charge.
  • Inspect all lights and replace any burnt-out bulbs.

• Exhaust System

  • Inspect for leaks or damage periodically.

• Rust Prevention

  • Keep an eye on rust, especially on the frame and body panels.
  • Treat any spots promptly to prevent spread.

Regular maintenance keeps these classics running great. If you’re ever unsure about a procedure, there may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage channel — worth a look. Happy wrenching!

Finding the right hydraulic slave cylinder and throw-out bearing for your NP435 transmission can be a bit of a hunt, but I’ve got some pointers to help you out.

Understanding the NP435

The NP435 is a tough, four-speed manual transmission found in many Ford trucks from the 1960s to 1990s. In a Bullnose Ford (1980–1986), it’s more likely to be paired with a mechanical linkage rather than a hydraulic one. However, if you’re looking to retrofit a hydraulic system, you’ve got options.

Retrofit Kits

1. Hydraulic Clutch Conversions Kits:

   • Companies like American Powertrain and Modern Driveline offer hydraulic clutch conversion kits that might suit your needs. These kits generally include a master cylinder, slave cylinder, and necessary linkages or lines.

2. Universal Hydraulic Slave Cylinders:

   • You can also look into universal hydraulic slave cylinders. These require some customization for mounting and connection to your clutch fork, but they offer flexibility.

Finding the Parts

1. OEM Parts:

   • If your truck originally came with a hydraulic system (rare for Bullnose trucks with the NP435), check classic Ford parts suppliers or even salvage yards specializing in vintage parts.

2. Aftermarket Options:

   • Look into aftermarket suppliers like Summit Racing, RockAuto, or LMC Truck. They might not have a direct bolt-on kit for the NP435 in a Bullnose, but they can provide components you can adapt.

3. Fabrication:

   • Sometimes, a bit of custom fabrication is needed to get everything lined up correctly. If you’re not comfortable with this, a local machine shop or mechanic with experience in classic Ford trucks might be able to help.

Tips and Considerations

• Pedal Assembly: Ensure your pedal assembly is compatible with a hydraulic setup. Some fabrication or swapping might be necessary.
• Bleeding the System: Properly bleeding the hydraulic system is crucial. Any air in the lines can lead to a spongy pedal feel.
• Compatibility: Double-check the fit and compatibility of all components with your specific truck model and year to avoid headaches down the road.

For more detailed guidance, there might be relevant videos on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that can walk you through parts of this conversion. And if you’re into community support, the Bullnose Ford subreddit could also be a good place to ask for advice from fellow enthusiasts. Good luck with your project!

Hey there! Sounds like you’re planning an exciting swap. Let’s dive into what you’ll need to consider for dropping a 302 or 351 into your ’84 F150.

Transmission Considerations

Your truck currently has a 3-speed manual with overdrive (probably the Tremec RTS or similar). Both the 302 and 351W (Windsor) can bolt up to your existing transmission bellhousing. However, the clutch and flywheel may need attention:

• Flywheel: The 300 I6 and small-block V8s (302 and 351) use different flywheels. You’ll need a flywheel that matches the engine you choose.
• Bellhousing: If your current bellhousing fits the small-block pattern, you’re in luck. If not, you’ll need a V8-compatible bellhousing.
• Clutch: Make sure your clutch matches the flywheel and engine torque. Going from an I6 to a V8 might necessitate an upgrade for durability.

Engine Mounts

You’ll need V8 engine mounts. The good news is that they should bolt right into your frame, as the mounting points are the same between the I6 and V8 models.

Rear End and Driveshaft

The existing rear end should handle the power increase of a 302 or 351, assuming it’s in good condition. Here’s what to check:

• Rear Axle: The 8.8-inch or 9-inch rear ends found in these trucks are robust, but it’s wise to ensure the gears and differential are in good shape.
• Driveshaft: You might need a different length driveshaft, especially if any transmission changes are required down the line.

Cooling and Exhaust

Don’t forget the ancillary systems:

• Radiator: Consider upgrading to a V8 radiator for better cooling capacity.
• Exhaust: Get a V8 compatible exhaust manifold or headers and exhaust system.

Electrical and Fuel System

You’ll have to tweak these systems:

• Wiring Harness: The wiring for the I6 may not match up perfectly with a V8. You might need some customization or an aftermarket harness.
• Fuel System: If you’re switching to a carbureted setup, make sure the fuel delivery system is up to par with the V8’s needs.

This swap is popular and well-documented, so resources are out there to help guide you through the process. There might be a video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that breaks down a similar swap. Also, hit up the Bullnose Ford subreddit for community advice. Good luck, and enjoy the project!