Category Bullnose Bill Answer

What type of bulb is used in the 1986 F-150 gauge cluster?


Bullnose Bill pointing at a 1986 F-150 gauge cluster while holding a small wedge dash bulb

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

On a 1986 Ford F-150, the gauge cluster uses 194 bulbs for illumination. These are small wedge-base bulbs that are fairly easy to replace. Here’s a quick guide on swapping them out:

Steps to Replace Gauge Cluster Bulbs

  1. Disconnect the Battery: Always disconnect the negative battery cable before working on your vehicle’s electrical system to avoid any shorts.

  2. Remove the Dash Bezel:

    • Carefully remove any screws holding the bezel in place.
    • Gently pry the bezel off. Be cautious not to break any clips.
  3. Access the Cluster:

    • Unscrew the gauge cluster. It’s usually held in by a few screws around the perimeter.
    • Gently pull the cluster towards you, but don’t yank it out. You’ll need to disconnect the wiring harnesses.
  4. Replace the Bulbs:

    • Locate the bulb sockets on the back of the cluster. They twist in and out.
    • Remove the old 194 bulbs from their sockets.
    • Install the new bulbs.
  5. Reassemble:

    • Reconnect the wiring harnesses.
    • Secure the cluster back into place with the screws.
    • Reattach the dash bezel and its screws.
  6. Reconnect the Battery: Once everything is back in place, reconnect the negative battery cable.

Pro Tips

  • Check the Sockets: Make sure the bulb sockets are clean and free of corrosion. This ensures good electrical contact.
  • Test Before Reassembly: It’s a good idea to test the new bulbs before fully reassembling to ensure they light up.
  • Consider LED Upgrades: If you want brighter or different colored lighting, consider upgrading to LED bulbs. Just make sure they’re compatible with your truck.

If you run into any issues or need further guidance, there may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel — worth a look!


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What can I do to improve cold starting on my 1983 F350 6.9 IDI with white smoke issues?


Bullnose Bill explaining cold start issues on a 1983 F350 6.9 IDI.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Alright, let’s dig into that cold start issue on your 1983 F350 with the 6.9 IDI. You’ve done a lot already, so let’s focus on a few areas that might still be causing trouble.

Glow Plug System

  1. Glow Plugs: Make sure they’re all functioning. If even one is dead, it can cause hard starts. Test them with a multimeter: they should show low resistance. Replace any faulty ones with quality plugs like Motorcraft or Beru.

  2. Glow Plug Relay: Check if the relay is clicking on and off as it should. If it’s not functioning, the plugs won’t heat properly.

  3. Controller: The glow plug controller can sometimes be the culprit. Verify that it’s sending power to the glow plugs for the correct duration.

Fuel Delivery

  1. Air Leaks: Double-check for any air leaks in the fuel lines, especially since you’ve replaced them. Air in the system can lead to starting issues.

  2. Fuel Pump Pressure: Since you’ve switched to an electric fuel pump, confirm it’s delivering the correct pressure (around 4-6 PSI for the 6.9 IDI).

Engine Timing

  1. Injection Timing: If the timing is off, it can lead to hard starts and excessive smoke. Ensure the injection pump is correctly timed. A slight advance or retardation can make a big difference.

Electrical System

  1. Battery and Cables: Ensure the batteries are strong and the cables are clean and tight. The starter needs a good supply to crank effectively, especially in cold weather.

Other Tips

  • Block Heater: Using a block heater in colder weather can make a big difference. If you don’t have one, consider adding it.

  • Ether Use: Avoid using ether regularly, especially if your glow plugs are active—it can cause damage.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve covered all these and still face issues, there may be a deeper problem, like compression loss, which would require further inspection.

Remember, the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) is also a great place to connect with others who might have faced similar issues. Keep at it—you’re on the right track!


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the common issues with a 1986 Ford F150 5.0 automatic not starting?


Bullnose Bill explaining troubleshooting for a 1986 Ford F150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Great! What would you like to know or do with your 1986 F-150? Looking for repair advice, maintenance tips, or maybe some upgrade ideas? Let me know!


User avatar

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User:

What could be causing my 1986 F150 to not start despite new fuel injectors and lines?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Let’s dig into this fuel issue with your ’86 F-150. It sounds like you’re dealing with a fuel delivery problem. Here are a few steps to troubleshoot and hopefully resolve it:

Check Fuel Pressure

  1. Fuel Pressure Test:

    • Use a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure at the fuel rail. The 5.0 EFI should have around 35-45 psi.
    • If the pressure is low, it might be a failing fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter.
  2. Fuel Pump:

    • Listen for the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to the "ON" position. If you don’t hear it, the pump may be failing or there could be an electrical issue.

Inspect Fuel System Components

  1. Fuel Filter:

    • Make sure your fuel filter isn’t clogged. A blocked filter will restrict fuel flow to the engine.
  2. Fuel Pump Relay:

    • Check the fuel pump relay and its connections. A faulty relay can prevent power from reaching the pump.
  3. Inertia Switch:

    • Ensure the inertia switch hasn’t been tripped. This switch cuts off fuel in the event of a collision but can sometimes trip accidentally.

Check Air and Idle Control

  1. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC):

    • A faulty IAC valve can cause high idle and stalling. Clean or replace it if needed.
  2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS):

    • If the TPS is out of adjustment or faulty, it can cause stalling when you hit the gas. Test it with a multimeter to ensure proper operation.

Electrical and Sensor Checks

  1. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor:

    • Make sure the MAF sensor is clean and functioning properly. A dirty or defective MAF can cause idle and throttle issues.
  2. Engine Control Unit (ECU):

    • Consider checking for any stored trouble codes, even if the Check Engine Light isn’t on. This might give you clues.

Pro Tips

  • Fuel Quality: Ensure the fuel is fresh and not contaminated with water or debris.
  • Vacuum Leaks: Inspect for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and hoses, as these can affect idle and throttle response.

If you go through these steps and still have issues, there could be something more specific tied to the electrical system or the ECU. Keep me posted on what you find!

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User:

I have replaced all fuel pumps and filters; what else should I check?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Got it. Since you’ve got new fuel pumps and filters, let’s focus on some other potential culprits:

Electrical and Sensor Focus

  1. Fuel Pump Relay and Wiring:

    • Double-check the relay and associated wiring for any corrosion or loose connections.
  2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS):

    • Test the TPS with a multimeter. It should have a smooth change in voltage as you move the throttle.
  3. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC):

    • Clean the IAC valve. If it’s sticking, it can cause idle and stalling issues.

Fuel System Pressure Check

  • Pressure Regulator:
    • Ensure the fuel pressure regulator isn’t leaking or faulty. Check the vacuum line attached to it for fuel presence, indicating a diaphragm issue.

Air Intake and Sensors

  1. MAF Sensor:

    • Ensure the MAF sensor is clean. Use MAF cleaner to avoid damaging it.
  2. Check for Vacuum Leaks:

    • Inspect all hoses and the intake manifold for leaks with a smoke test or carb cleaner spray.

ECU and Codes

  • Diagnostic Scan:
    • Even if the Check Engine Light isn’t on, use a scan tool to check for any stored codes.

Additional Thoughts

  • Timing and Ignition:
    • Confirm the ignition timing is set correctly and the distributor cap and rotor aren’t worn out.

If you troubleshoot these areas and still face issues, it might be worth consulting with a local mechanic for a deeper diagnostic. Let me know how it goes!

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User:

Why does my truck respond to starting fluid but not start normally?

Bill avatar

Bill:

When your engine fires with starting fluid, but not otherwise, it indicates the engine is getting spark and air but insufficient fuel. Here’s why that might happen:

Potential Causes

  1. Insufficient Fuel Delivery:

    • Even with new pumps, there might be an obstruction or a weak electrical supply affecting the pump’s performance.
  2. Fuel Pressure Regulator:

    • A faulty regulator might be providing insufficient pressure, preventing fuel from reaching the injectors effectively.
  3. Injectors Not Firing:

    • The injectors might not be getting the signal to fire. This could be a wiring issue, a blown fuse, or a problem with the Engine Control Unit (ECU).

What to Check Next

  1. Injector Pulse:

    • Use a noid light to check if the injectors are getting a pulse. If not, it’s likely an electrical or ECU issue.
  2. Fuel Pressure:

    • Even with new components, verify that the pressure at the fuel rail meets specifications.
  3. ECU and Electrical Connections:

    • Ensure all related electrical connectors are secure, with no corrosion or damage.
  4. Check Grounds:

    • Poor grounding can affect fuel system components, causing erratic behavior.

By addressing these areas, you can better pinpoint the weak link in the fuel delivery system. Let me know how you progress!

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User:

Does the 1986 Ford F150 have an OBD port for diagnostics?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Your 1986 F-150 likely doesn’t have an OBD-I port like later vehicles. Instead, it uses a self-test connector under the hood, typically near the driver’s side fender. You can use a code reader specifically for Ford vehicles from this era or perform a manual test with a test light or multimeter to read trouble codes.

Here’s how you can do it:

How to Read Codes

  1. Locate the Connector:

    • Find the EEC-IV test connector under the hood.
  2. Connect a Test Light:

    • Use a test light or jumper wire to connect the Self-Test Input (STI) to the Signal Return (SIG RET).
  3. Turn the Key On:

    • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position without starting the engine.
  4. Read the Codes:

    • Count the flashes of the Check Engine Light or test light. The flashes correspond to two-digit trouble codes.

Tips

  • Code Interpretation:

    • Refer to a code list for specific meanings. There should be two sets: continuous memory codes and hard fault codes.
  • Be Patient:

    • The process takes a little time, so be patient while counting the flashes.

This can help pinpoint issues that might not be immediately obvious. Let me know what codes you find!

User avatar

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User:

Where can I find the OBD port under the hood of my 1986 F150?

Bill avatar

Bill:

The EEC-IV test connector on your 1986 F-150 is usually located near the driver’s side fender, close to the firewall or the brake booster. It might be covered with a plastic cap. Look for a small, rectangular connector with a couple of wires leading into it. If you’re having trouble locating it, check the area around the master cylinder or the power distribution box.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What maintenance tasks should I perform on my 1986 Ford F250 7.5 4×4?


Bullnose Bill explains maintenance tips for a 1986 Ford F250 7.5 4x4.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Keeping your 1986 F250 with the 7.5L V8 running smoothly involves regular maintenance. Here’s a solid checklist to follow:

Engine Maintenance

  1. Oil and Filter Change

    • Change every 3,000 miles or every six months.
    • Use a quality oil filter and the recommended oil grade (typically 10W-30).
  2. Air Filter Replacement

    • Check every 12,000 miles and replace if dirty.
    • Consider a high-flow aftermarket option for better performance.
  3. Fuel System

    • Replace the fuel filter every 24,000 miles.
    • Consider a fuel system cleaner to keep injectors clean.
  4. Cooling System

    • Inspect the radiator, hoses, and water pump for leaks.
    • Flush and replace coolant every 2 years.

Ignition System

  • Spark Plugs and Wires

    • Replace spark plugs every 30,000 miles.
    • Inspect and replace wires if they’re cracked or worn.
  • Distributor Cap and Rotor

    • Check for wear and replace if necessary.

Transmission and Drivetrain

  1. Transmission Fluid and Filter

    • Change every 30,000 miles.
    • Make sure to use the correct type of ATF for your transmission.
  2. Transfer Case Fluid

    • Change fluid every 30,000 miles for 4×4 systems.
  3. Differential Fluid

    • Inspect and replace every 60,000 miles.

Brakes and Suspension

  1. Brake System

    • Check pads, rotors, and lines every 10,000 miles.
    • Bleed the brake system every 2 years to replace fluid.
  2. Suspension and Steering

    • Inspect bushings, ball joints, and tie rods for wear.
    • Lubricate steering components regularly.

Tires and Alignment

  • Tire Rotation

    • Rotate tires every 6,000-8,000 miles to ensure even wear.
  • Alignment Check

    • Get the alignment checked yearly, or if you notice uneven tire wear.

General Tips

  • Battery and Electrical System

    • Clean battery terminals and check charge.
    • Inspect all lights and replace any burnt-out bulbs.
  • Exhaust System

    • Inspect for leaks or damage periodically.
  • Rust Prevention

    • Keep an eye on rust, especially on the frame and body panels.
    • Treat any spots promptly to prevent spread.

Regular maintenance keeps these classics running great. If you’re ever unsure about a procedure, there may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage channel — worth a look. Happy wrenching!


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User:

What is the first modification I should consider for my F250?

Bill avatar

Bill:

When it comes to your first mod for a 1986 F250, it largely depends on what you’re looking to achieve—performance, comfort, or aesthetics. Here are some popular first mods:

Performance

  • Exhaust Upgrade

    • A performance exhaust can improve airflow and add a nice growl to your truck.
  • Air Intake System

    • A high-flow air intake can help your engine breathe better, which might give you a slight performance boost.

Comfort

  • Seat Upgrade
    • Swapping in more comfortable seats can make a big difference if you spend a lot of time driving.

Aesthetics

  • LED Lighting
    • Upgrading to LED headlights and interior lights can improve visibility and give your truck a modern look.

Versatility

  • Toolbox or Bed Cover
    • Useful for securing your gear and tools, and it adds a practical touch to your truck.

Think about what matters most to you and start there. If performance is key, going with an exhaust or intake is a solid choice. For comfort or practicality, seats or bed accessories are great. Enjoy modding your Bullnose!

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User:

What could cause my F250 to crank but not start?

Bill avatar

Bill:

If your truck cranks but won’t start, it usually boils down to one of three main issues: fuel, spark, or air. Here’s how to troubleshoot each:

1. Fuel System

  • Fuel Pump

    • Listen for a humming sound from the fuel tank when you turn the key to the "ON" position. If it’s silent, the pump might be failing.
  • Fuel Filter

    • A clogged filter can restrict flow. If it hasn’t been changed in a while, it’s a good place to start.
  • Fuel Pressure

    • Test the fuel pressure with a gauge. It should meet the specifications for the 7.5L engine.

2. Ignition System

  • Spark Plugs

    • Remove a plug and check for spark. If there’s no spark, inspect the plugs, wires, and distributor.
  • Ignition Coil

    • A bad coil can prevent spark. Test it with a multimeter.
  • Distributor Cap and Rotor

    • Remove and inspect for cracks or carbon tracking.

3. Air System

  • Air Filter

    • Ensure it’s not clogged and that air can flow freely into the engine.
  • Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) or Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

    • Check for any fault codes that might indicate a sensor issue.

Other Considerations

  • Battery and Charging System

    • Ensure the battery is fully charged and all connections are clean and tight.
  • Engine Timing

    • If the timing chain or belt has slipped, it can cause these symptoms.

Troubleshooting Tips

  • Start with the basics: check for codes with a diagnostic tool.
  • Listen for unusual sounds when cranking, as they might give clues.
  • If you’re stuck, there might be a related video on the Bullnose Garage channel that can help.

If none of these pan out, it might be worth digging deeper into each system or consulting a professional. Good luck!

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User:

Are 315/75/16 tires compatible with my 1986 F250?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Fitting 315/75/16 tires on your 1986 F250 can be challenging without modifications. Here’s what to consider:

Fitment Considerations

  1. Lift Kit

    • You’ll likely need a lift to accommodate the larger tires. A 4-inch suspension lift is a common choice for this size.
  2. Wheel Backspacing

    • Ensure the wheels have the correct backspacing to avoid rubbing on the suspension or body.
  3. Trimming

    • You might need to trim fenders or modify wheel wells to prevent rubbing during turns or suspension compression.
  4. Gear Ratios

    • Larger tires can affect performance and fuel economy. Consider re-gearing the differentials to match the new tire size.

Checking Fitment

  • Test fit one tire before committing to the set.
  • Remember, off-road use can increase the likelihood of rubbing.

These mods involve some investment, so consider your driving needs and budget. If you’re looking to tackle this mod, there might be helpful guides or videos on Bullnose Garage to walk you through it.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the steps to find a hydraulic slave and throw-out for the NP435 in 1980-1986 Ford trucks?


Bullnose Bill explains how to find hydraulic parts for Ford trucks from 1980 to 1986.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Finding the right hydraulic slave cylinder and throw-out bearing for your NP435 transmission can be a bit of a hunt, but I’ve got some pointers to help you out.

Understanding the NP435

The NP435 is a tough, four-speed manual transmission found in many Ford trucks from the 1960s to 1990s. In a Bullnose Ford (1980–1986), it’s more likely to be paired with a mechanical linkage rather than a hydraulic one. However, if you’re looking to retrofit a hydraulic system, you’ve got options.

Retrofit Kits

  1. Hydraulic Clutch Conversions Kits:

    • Companies like American Powertrain and Modern Driveline offer hydraulic clutch conversion kits that might suit your needs. These kits generally include a master cylinder, slave cylinder, and necessary linkages or lines.
  2. Universal Hydraulic Slave Cylinders:

    • You can also look into universal hydraulic slave cylinders. These require some customization for mounting and connection to your clutch fork, but they offer flexibility.

Finding the Parts

  1. OEM Parts:

    • If your truck originally came with a hydraulic system (rare for Bullnose trucks with the NP435), check classic Ford parts suppliers or even salvage yards specializing in vintage parts.
  2. Aftermarket Options:

    • Look into aftermarket suppliers like Summit Racing, RockAuto, or LMC Truck. They might not have a direct bolt-on kit for the NP435 in a Bullnose, but they can provide components you can adapt.
  3. Fabrication:

    • Sometimes, a bit of custom fabrication is needed to get everything lined up correctly. If you’re not comfortable with this, a local machine shop or mechanic with experience in classic Ford trucks might be able to help.

Tips and Considerations

  • Pedal Assembly: Ensure your pedal assembly is compatible with a hydraulic setup. Some fabrication or swapping might be necessary.
  • Bleeding the System: Properly bleeding the hydraulic system is crucial. Any air in the lines can lead to a spongy pedal feel.
  • Compatibility: Double-check the fit and compatibility of all components with your specific truck model and year to avoid headaches down the road.

For more detailed guidance, there might be relevant videos on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that can walk you through parts of this conversion. And if you’re into community support, the Bullnose Ford subreddit could also be a good place to ask for advice from fellow enthusiasts. Good luck with your project!


User avatar

User:

I appreciate your help.

Bill avatar

Bill:

You’re welcome! If you have any more questions about your Bullnose Ford or need further advice, feel free to ask. Happy wrenching!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What upgrades are needed for a 1984 F150 when swapping to a 302 or 351 engine?


Bullnose Bill explaining engine swap options for a 1984 F150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Hey there! Sounds like you’re planning an exciting swap. Let’s dive into what you’ll need to consider for dropping a 302 or 351 into your ’84 F150.

Transmission Considerations

Your truck currently has a 3-speed manual with overdrive (probably the Tremec RTS or similar). Both the 302 and 351W (Windsor) can bolt up to your existing transmission bellhousing. However, the clutch and flywheel may need attention:

  • Flywheel: The 300 I6 and small-block V8s (302 and 351) use different flywheels. You’ll need a flywheel that matches the engine you choose.
  • Bellhousing: If your current bellhousing fits the small-block pattern, you’re in luck. If not, you’ll need a V8-compatible bellhousing.
  • Clutch: Make sure your clutch matches the flywheel and engine torque. Going from an I6 to a V8 might necessitate an upgrade for durability.

Engine Mounts

You’ll need V8 engine mounts. The good news is that they should bolt right into your frame, as the mounting points are the same between the I6 and V8 models.

Rear End and Driveshaft

The existing rear end should handle the power increase of a 302 or 351, assuming it’s in good condition. Here’s what to check:

  • Rear Axle: The 8.8-inch or 9-inch rear ends found in these trucks are robust, but it’s wise to ensure the gears and differential are in good shape.
  • Driveshaft: You might need a different length driveshaft, especially if any transmission changes are required down the line.

Cooling and Exhaust

Don’t forget the ancillary systems:

  • Radiator: Consider upgrading to a V8 radiator for better cooling capacity.
  • Exhaust: Get a V8 compatible exhaust manifold or headers and exhaust system.

Electrical and Fuel System

You’ll have to tweak these systems:

  • Wiring Harness: The wiring for the I6 may not match up perfectly with a V8. You might need some customization or an aftermarket harness.
  • Fuel System: If you’re switching to a carbureted setup, make sure the fuel delivery system is up to par with the V8’s needs.

This swap is popular and well-documented, so resources are out there to help guide you through the process. There might be a video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that breaks down a similar swap. Also, hit up the Bullnose Ford subreddit for community advice. Good luck, and enjoy the project!


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.