Category Bullnose Bill Answer

Bullnose Bill Answer
by Ed

What parts and steps are required to swap a Ford C6 automatic for a T18 manual in 1980–1986 F-series trucks?

Bullnose Bill pointing to a 1980s Ford clutch and T18 gearbox while explaining the C6-to-T18 swap.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Swapping from a C6 automatic to a T18 manual transmission is a solid choice for durability and control. Here’s a rundown of what you’ll need and consider:

Parts Required

  1. T18 Transmission:

    • Make sure it’s in good condition. Check for any worn gears or syncros.

  2. Clutch Assembly:

    • You’ll need the clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing compatible with the T18.

  3. Flywheel:

    • The flywheel from a manual transmission setup. It must match your engine’s balance (either internally or externally balanced).

  4. Bellhousing:

    • A bellhousing that fits both your engine and the T18.

  5. Clutch Pedal Assembly:

    • This includes the clutch pedal and any associated linkage or hydraulic components, depending on your setup.

  6. Clutch Linkage or Hydraulic System:

    • If your truck uses a mechanical linkage, make sure everything is intact. For hydraulic systems, ensure the master and slave cylinders are in good shape.

  7. Driveshaft:

    • You might need to modify the length, as the T18 can be a different length than the C6.

  8. Crossmember and Mount:

    • Check if the crossmember needs adjustment or if a new mount is necessary.

  9. Shifter and Boot:

    • A T18 shifter with a boot to seal the cab.

  10. Floor Pan Cover:

    • You might need to modify the floor pan or get a cover for the new shifter location.

Additional Considerations

  • Starter: Ensure the starter is compatible with the manual flywheel.
  • Transmission Cooler: You can remove the C6’s cooler if you’re not using it elsewhere.
  • Wiring: It might be necessary to change or bypass the neutral safety switch wiring.
  • Gear Ratios: Be prepared for the different gear ratios. The T18 has a very low first gear, which is great for torque but may take some getting used to.

Pro Tips

  • Match the Transmission to the Engine: Make sure your flywheel and clutch are the correct size for the engine you’re working with.
  • Documentation: Keep track of all parts and take photos during disassembly for easier reassembly.
  • Community: Check out resources like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or the Bullnose Garage channel for more insights and community help.

Swapping transmissions can be a rewarding project that improves your truck’s capability and driving experience. Good luck, and feel free to reach out with more questions!

This conversation had no additional replies.

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.
Bullnose Bill Answer
by Ed

Is there a disc brake conversion kit for a 1985 Ford TTB Dana 44 front axle?

Bullnose Bill pointing at a 1985 Ford TTB Dana 44 axle diagram, explaining disc brake conversion parts and fitment.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Absolutely! Upgrading to disc brakes on a 1985 Ford TTB Dana 44 is a popular choice. Here’s a breakdown of what you need to know:

Why Upgrade to Disc Brakes?

  • Improved Stopping Power: Disc brakes generally provide better stopping power than drums.
  • Heat Dissipation: They dissipate heat more effectively, reducing brake fade.
  • Easier Maintenance: Changing pads is usually simpler than dealing with drum systems.

Disc Brake Conversion Kit

Several companies offer conversion kits. Look for kits designed specifically for the TTB Dana 44 to ensure proper fitment. Common parts included are:

  • Rotors and Calipers: Ensure they’re compatible with the TTB Dana 44.
  • Brake Pads: Usually included in kits.
  • Brackets and Hardware: Essential for mounting the calipers and rotors.
  • Hoses and Lines: Ensure these are rated for your truck’s weight and intended use.

Installation Considerations

  1. Compatibility: Confirm that the kit matches your axle configuration.
  2. Tools Needed: Basic hand tools, a torque wrench, and possibly a brake bleeder.
  3. Time: Set aside a weekend for the swap, especially if it’s your first time.

Pro Tips

  • Master Cylinder: Sometimes, it’s necessary to upgrade the master cylinder for optimal performance with disc brakes. Check compatibility.
  • Brake Bias: Consider an adjustable proportioning valve to fine-tune front-to-rear brake bias.
  • Wheel Compatibility: Make sure your wheels have the necessary clearance for the new brake setup.

Before You Start

  • Research: Double-check with product reviews and forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit for real-world feedback.
  • Safety First: Always use jack stands and ensure the vehicle is securely supported before starting work.

If you’re unsure about any specific part of the process, there might be a video on the Bullnose Garage channel to help you out. Happy wrenching!

This conversation had no additional replies.

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bill Answer
by Ed

Can I use the 302 2bbl flex plate when swapping a rebuilt 1985 351W 4bbl into my 1983 F-150 with a rebuilt C6?

Bullnose Bill explaining flex plate and torque converter fit for a 1983 F-150 351W swap

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Great question! When swapping from a 302 to a 351W in your 1983 F-150, you need to pay attention to the imbalance of the engines. The original 302 uses a 50 oz-in imbalance, whereas the 351W uses a 28 oz-in imbalance. This means you’ll need a different flexplate for the 351W.

Flexplate Considerations

  1. Imbalance:

    • 302: 50 oz-in
    • 351W: 28 oz-in

  2. Tooth Count:

    • Both the 302 and 351W commonly use a 164-tooth flexplate for the C6 transmission.

  3. Crankshaft Bolt Pattern:

    • Ensure the flexplate matches the bolt pattern of the 351W crankshaft.

What You Need

  • 28 oz-in Imbalance Flexplate: Make sure it has the 164-tooth count for compatibility with your C6 transmission.

Pro Tips

  • Check Starter Engagement: After installing the new flexplate, verify proper starter engagement to prevent future issues.
  • Torque Converter Compatibility: Ensure the flexplate’s bolt pattern matches your torque converter.

Installation Advice

  • Torque Specifications: Use a torque wrench to secure the flexplate bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications to avoid vibration issues.

If you want more detailed guidance, there may be a video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that covers flexplate swaps.

Got any other questions about your Bullnose?

User avatar

User:

Which torque converter fits a rebuilt 1985 351W 4bbl in my 1983 F-150 with a rebuilt C6—will the 302 2bbl converter work?

Bill avatar

Bill:

When swapping from a 302 to a 351W, you can generally use the original torque converter from your C6 transmission. Here’s a rundown:

Torque Converter Considerations

  1. Bolt Pattern:

    • Ensure the flexplate bolt pattern matches your existing torque converter. Most C6 converters will work, but double-check fitment.

  2. Stall Speed:

    • If you’re keeping the truck mostly stock with 3.50 gears, the original converter’s stall speed should be fine. If you plan on performance upgrades, you might want a higher stall converter.

  3. Condition:

    • Inspect your torque converter for wear or damage. Consider rebuilding or replacing it if it’s seen better days.

Installation Tips

  • Drain and Flush: Make sure to drain and flush the torque converter and transmission cooler to avoid contamination.
  • Alignment: Properly align the torque converter to the transmission pump to prevent damage.

Pro Tips

  • Converter Size: Most C6 converters are similar, but verify size and bolt pattern to ensure compatibility with the new flexplate.
  • Upgrade Considerations: If the engine rebuild includes performance upgrades, consider a torque converter with a suitable stall speed.

If you need more specifics, there might be a relevant discussion on the Bullnose Ford subreddit or a video on the Bullnose Garage channel.

Let me know if there’s anything else on your mind!

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bill Answer
by Ed

What type of bulb is used in the 1986 F-150 gauge cluster?

Bullnose Bill pointing at a 1986 F-150 gauge cluster while holding a small wedge dash bulb

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

On a 1986 Ford F-150, the gauge cluster uses 194 bulbs for illumination. These are small wedge-base bulbs that are fairly easy to replace. Here’s a quick guide on swapping them out:

Steps to Replace Gauge Cluster Bulbs

  1. Disconnect the Battery: Always disconnect the negative battery cable before working on your vehicle’s electrical system to avoid any shorts.

  2. Remove the Dash Bezel:

    • Carefully remove any screws holding the bezel in place.
    • Gently pry the bezel off. Be cautious not to break any clips.

  3. Access the Cluster:

    • Unscrew the gauge cluster. It’s usually held in by a few screws around the perimeter.
    • Gently pull the cluster towards you, but don’t yank it out. You’ll need to disconnect the wiring harnesses.

  4. Replace the Bulbs:

    • Locate the bulb sockets on the back of the cluster. They twist in and out.
    • Remove the old 194 bulbs from their sockets.
    • Install the new bulbs.

  5. Reassemble:

    • Reconnect the wiring harnesses.
    • Secure the cluster back into place with the screws.
    • Reattach the dash bezel and its screws.

  6. Reconnect the Battery: Once everything is back in place, reconnect the negative battery cable.

Pro Tips

  • Check the Sockets: Make sure the bulb sockets are clean and free of corrosion. This ensures good electrical contact.
  • Test Before Reassembly: It’s a good idea to test the new bulbs before fully reassembling to ensure they light up.
  • Consider LED Upgrades: If you want brighter or different colored lighting, consider upgrading to LED bulbs. Just make sure they’re compatible with your truck.

If you run into any issues or need further guidance, there may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel — worth a look!

This conversation had no additional replies.

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bill Answer
by Ed

What can I do to improve cold starting on my 1983 F350 6.9 IDI with white smoke issues?

Bullnose Bill explaining cold start issues on a 1983 F350 6.9 IDI.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Alright, let’s dig into that cold start issue on your 1983 F350 with the 6.9 IDI. You’ve done a lot already, so let’s focus on a few areas that might still be causing trouble.

Glow Plug System

  1. Glow Plugs: Make sure they’re all functioning. If even one is dead, it can cause hard starts. Test them with a multimeter: they should show low resistance. Replace any faulty ones with quality plugs like Motorcraft or Beru.

  2. Glow Plug Relay: Check if the relay is clicking on and off as it should. If it’s not functioning, the plugs won’t heat properly.

  3. Controller: The glow plug controller can sometimes be the culprit. Verify that it’s sending power to the glow plugs for the correct duration.

Fuel Delivery

  1. Air Leaks: Double-check for any air leaks in the fuel lines, especially since you’ve replaced them. Air in the system can lead to starting issues.

  2. Fuel Pump Pressure: Since you’ve switched to an electric fuel pump, confirm it’s delivering the correct pressure (around 4-6 PSI for the 6.9 IDI).

Engine Timing

  1. Injection Timing: If the timing is off, it can lead to hard starts and excessive smoke. Ensure the injection pump is correctly timed. A slight advance or retardation can make a big difference.

Electrical System

  1. Battery and Cables: Ensure the batteries are strong and the cables are clean and tight. The starter needs a good supply to crank effectively, especially in cold weather.

Other Tips

  • Block Heater: Using a block heater in colder weather can make a big difference. If you don’t have one, consider adding it.

  • Ether Use: Avoid using ether regularly, especially if your glow plugs are active—it can cause damage.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve covered all these and still face issues, there may be a deeper problem, like compression loss, which would require further inspection.

Remember, the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) is also a great place to connect with others who might have faced similar issues. Keep at it—you’re on the right track!

This conversation had no additional replies.

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bill Answer
by Ed

What are the common issues with a 1986 Ford F150 5.0 automatic not starting?

Bullnose Bill explaining troubleshooting for a 1986 Ford F150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Great! What would you like to know or do with your 1986 F-150? Looking for repair advice, maintenance tips, or maybe some upgrade ideas? Let me know!

User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

What could be causing my 1986 F150 to not start despite new fuel injectors and lines?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Let’s dig into this fuel issue with your ’86 F-150. It sounds like you’re dealing with a fuel delivery problem. Here are a few steps to troubleshoot and hopefully resolve it:

Check Fuel Pressure

  1. Fuel Pressure Test:

    • Use a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure at the fuel rail. The 5.0 EFI should have around 35-45 psi.
    • If the pressure is low, it might be a failing fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter.

  2. Fuel Pump:

    • Listen for the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to the "ON" position. If you don’t hear it, the pump may be failing or there could be an electrical issue.

Inspect Fuel System Components

  1. Fuel Filter:

    • Make sure your fuel filter isn’t clogged. A blocked filter will restrict fuel flow to the engine.

  2. Fuel Pump Relay:

    • Check the fuel pump relay and its connections. A faulty relay can prevent power from reaching the pump.

  3. Inertia Switch:

    • Ensure the inertia switch hasn’t been tripped. This switch cuts off fuel in the event of a collision but can sometimes trip accidentally.

Check Air and Idle Control

  1. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC):

    • A faulty IAC valve can cause high idle and stalling. Clean or replace it if needed.

  2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS):

    • If the TPS is out of adjustment or faulty, it can cause stalling when you hit the gas. Test it with a multimeter to ensure proper operation.

Electrical and Sensor Checks

  1. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor:

    • Make sure the MAF sensor is clean and functioning properly. A dirty or defective MAF can cause idle and throttle issues.

  2. Engine Control Unit (ECU):

    • Consider checking for any stored trouble codes, even if the Check Engine Light isn’t on. This might give you clues.

Pro Tips

  • Fuel Quality: Ensure the fuel is fresh and not contaminated with water or debris.
  • Vacuum Leaks: Inspect for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and hoses, as these can affect idle and throttle response.

If you go through these steps and still have issues, there could be something more specific tied to the electrical system or the ECU. Keep me posted on what you find!

User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

I have replaced all fuel pumps and filters; what else should I check?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Got it. Since you’ve got new fuel pumps and filters, let’s focus on some other potential culprits:

Electrical and Sensor Focus

  1. Fuel Pump Relay and Wiring:

    • Double-check the relay and associated wiring for any corrosion or loose connections.

  2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS):

    • Test the TPS with a multimeter. It should have a smooth change in voltage as you move the throttle.

  3. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC):

    • Clean the IAC valve. If it’s sticking, it can cause idle and stalling issues.

Fuel System Pressure Check

  • Pressure Regulator:
    • Ensure the fuel pressure regulator isn’t leaking or faulty. Check the vacuum line attached to it for fuel presence, indicating a diaphragm issue.

Air Intake and Sensors

  1. MAF Sensor:

    • Ensure the MAF sensor is clean. Use MAF cleaner to avoid damaging it.

  2. Check for Vacuum Leaks:

    • Inspect all hoses and the intake manifold for leaks with a smoke test or carb cleaner spray.

ECU and Codes

  • Diagnostic Scan:
    • Even if the Check Engine Light isn’t on, use a scan tool to check for any stored codes.

Additional Thoughts

  • Timing and Ignition:
    • Confirm the ignition timing is set correctly and the distributor cap and rotor aren’t worn out.

If you troubleshoot these areas and still face issues, it might be worth consulting with a local mechanic for a deeper diagnostic. Let me know how it goes!

User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

Why does my truck respond to starting fluid but not start normally?

Bill avatar

Bill:

When your engine fires with starting fluid, but not otherwise, it indicates the engine is getting spark and air but insufficient fuel. Here’s why that might happen:

Potential Causes

  1. Insufficient Fuel Delivery:

    • Even with new pumps, there might be an obstruction or a weak electrical supply affecting the pump’s performance.

  2. Fuel Pressure Regulator:

    • A faulty regulator might be providing insufficient pressure, preventing fuel from reaching the injectors effectively.

  3. Injectors Not Firing:

    • The injectors might not be getting the signal to fire. This could be a wiring issue, a blown fuse, or a problem with the Engine Control Unit (ECU).

What to Check Next

  1. Injector Pulse:

    • Use a noid light to check if the injectors are getting a pulse. If not, it’s likely an electrical or ECU issue.

  2. Fuel Pressure:

    • Even with new components, verify that the pressure at the fuel rail meets specifications.

  3. ECU and Electrical Connections:

    • Ensure all related electrical connectors are secure, with no corrosion or damage.

  4. Check Grounds:

    • Poor grounding can affect fuel system components, causing erratic behavior.

By addressing these areas, you can better pinpoint the weak link in the fuel delivery system. Let me know how you progress!

User avatar

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User:

Does the 1986 Ford F150 have an OBD port for diagnostics?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Your 1986 F-150 likely doesn’t have an OBD-I port like later vehicles. Instead, it uses a self-test connector under the hood, typically near the driver’s side fender. You can use a code reader specifically for Ford vehicles from this era or perform a manual test with a test light or multimeter to read trouble codes.

Here’s how you can do it:

How to Read Codes

  1. Locate the Connector:

    • Find the EEC-IV test connector under the hood.

  2. Connect a Test Light:

    • Use a test light or jumper wire to connect the Self-Test Input (STI) to the Signal Return (SIG RET).

  3. Turn the Key On:

    • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position without starting the engine.

  4. Read the Codes:

    • Count the flashes of the Check Engine Light or test light. The flashes correspond to two-digit trouble codes.

Tips

  • Code Interpretation:

    • Refer to a code list for specific meanings. There should be two sets: continuous memory codes and hard fault codes.

  • Be Patient:

    • The process takes a little time, so be patient while counting the flashes.

This can help pinpoint issues that might not be immediately obvious. Let me know what codes you find!

User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

Where can I find the OBD port under the hood of my 1986 F150?

Bill avatar

Bill:

The EEC-IV test connector on your 1986 F-150 is usually located near the driver’s side fender, close to the firewall or the brake booster. It might be covered with a plastic cap. Look for a small, rectangular connector with a couple of wires leading into it. If you’re having trouble locating it, check the area around the master cylinder or the power distribution box.

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.