Category Bullnose Bill Answer

Great question! If you’re on the hunt for a 3G alternator in a junkyard, you’re looking for specific Ford models from the mid-1990s to early 2000s. Here’s a handy list of vehicles to check out:

Vehicles to Look For:

1. 1994-2002 Ford F-Series Trucks: This includes the F-150, F-250, and F-350 models. Most will have the 3G alternator.

2. 1994-2001 Ford Explorer: The early Explorers also commonly featured the 3G alternator.

3. 1995-2001 Ford Mustang: You might find a 3G in these sporty rides as well.

4. 1994-1997 Ford Bronco: These classic SUVs are worth a look too.

5. 1994-1998 Ford Ranger: The smaller Ranger trucks often have the 3G as well.

Quick Tip for Identification:

When you’re scavenging at the junkyard, look for alternators that have the following specifications:

• A round, clock-style face.
• The 3G alternator typically has a larger diameter than the 2G and has a single wire connector along with a larger B+ terminal.

If you’re unsure, you can always take a picture of your existing 2G alternator and compare it with what you find. Remember, while you’re at it, check the condition of the alternator as well—look for signs of wear, corrosion, or damage.

Happy hunting, and feel free to ask if you have more questions!

Absolutely, upgrading your battery wiring and ground is a smart move, especially when you’re swapping in a 3G alternator! A solid electrical system is crucial for ensuring that everything runs smoothly and efficiently, and upgrading those wires can help handle the increased output of the 3G.

Typical Amperage of a 3G Alternator

The 3G alternator typically comes in 130 amps, and some can even push up to 150 amps. This gives you plenty of extra power for accessories, lights, and anything else you might add down the road.

Recommended Wire Sizes

When upgrading your wiring to accommodate the 3G alternator, here are some guidelines:

1. Battery to Alternator Wire:

   • Wire Size: Use 4 AWG wire. This size will handle the amperage without overheating and ensure efficient charging.
   • Make sure you use high-quality welding cable or battery cable, as they are designed to handle high current.

2. Ground Wire:

   • Wire Size: Also use 4 AWG wire for the ground; a solid ground is crucial for your alternator and entire electrical system.
   • It’s a good practice to connect the ground directly to the engine block or chassis to minimize resistance.

3. Battery to Chassis Ground:

   • If you haven’t upgraded this already, consider adding a dedicated grounding strap or wire from the battery to the chassis using 4 AWG as well.

Additional Tips

• Connector Quality: Use high-quality terminals and connectors to ensure good contact and prevent corrosion.
• Fuse: Consider adding an inline fuse on the battery wire to protect against electrical shorts. A 175-amp fuse is a good choice for a 3G setup.
• Routing: Route your wires carefully to avoid chafing against sharp edges or hot components.

Upgrading your battery and ground wiring alongside the alternator swap will help ensure your electrical system is robust and reliable. Plus, who doesn’t love a little extra peace of mind while they’re cruising in their trusty Bullnose?

If you have any more questions or need tips on anything else, just let me know! Happy wrenching!

Converting your 1984 F250 from 2WD to 4WD isn’t exactly a simple bolt-on affair, but it’s definitely doable with the right parts and some elbow grease. Let’s dive into it.

Key Components for the Swap

1. Front Axle: The high-pinion (HP) Dana 44 is a good choice for the front axle. However, it’s important to ensure you have the entire setup, including radius arms, coil springs, and steering linkage.

2. Radius Arms and Mounts: If you’re going with the Dana 44 that comes with radius arms, you’ll need to install radius arm mounts to your frame. These aren’t typically present on a 2WD frame, so you’ll have to fabricate or source mounts that fit your specific setup.

3. Crossmember Modifications: Some crossmember modifications may be necessary to clear the differential. Make sure to check for any clearance issues with your oil pan and engine crossmember.

4. Drivetrain Considerations: Since you’ve got the T18 transmission, you’ll need a transfer case compatible with it. The NP205 is a popular choice due to its strength and gear-driven design. You’ll need the appropriate adapter for your T18.

5. Driveshafts: Custom driveshafts will likely be needed to accommodate the new axle and transfer case setup.

6. Steering Linkage: Ensure that your steering linkage matches up with the new axle setup. You may need to fabricate or source parts to ensure everything aligns correctly.

Potential Pitfalls

• Alignment Issues: Proper alignment of the axle and radius arms is crucial for handling and tire wear. Double-check your measurements and mounts.

• Brake Lines and Hoses: These will likely need extending or rerouting to accommodate the new axle setup.

• Gear Ratios: Make sure your front and rear axle gear ratios match to avoid drivetrain binding.

Pro Tips

• Sourcing Parts: Parts trucks or junkyards might have the axle and components you need. These can be cost-effective if you’re working on a budget.

• Online Communities: Check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) for advice and experiences from folks who might have tackled similar projects.

Converting a 2WD to 4WD is a big project but rewarding if you’re looking to improve your truck’s capability. If you need more detailed guidance, there may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that could help. Good luck, and don’t hesitate to reach out if more questions pop up!

I don’t have direct access to link specific videos, but the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel is a fantastic resource. I recommend heading over there and searching for terms like "2WD to 4WD conversion" or "Dana 44 swap" related to Bullnose Ford trucks. There’s a good chance you’ll find some detailed guidance or a relevant video covering aspects of the swap. Plus, it’s always worth checking out their playlists for related topics. Happy wrenching!

You’re welcome! If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask. Enjoy working on your Bullnose, and good luck with the conversion!

Swapping a Dana 44 Twin-Traction Beam (TTB) front end into a 2WD F250 using the existing crossmember isn’t a straightforward bolt-in swap. Here’s what you need to consider:

Key Considerations

1. Crossmember Compatibility: The 2WD twin I-beam setup has a different crossmember design compared to the 4WD TTB setup. You’d need to modify or replace the crossmember to accommodate the Dana 44 TTB. This often involves cutting, welding, and fabricating new mounts.

2. Radius Arm Brackets: The TTB system uses different radius arm brackets than the 2WD beams. You’ll need to source or fabricate these brackets and ensure they’re properly mounted to the frame.

3. Coil Springs and Mounts: The coil springs and their mounts will differ between the 2WD and 4WD setups. You’ll need to make sure you have the correct spring perches and mounts for the TTB system.

4. Drivetrain Adjustments: If this swap is part of a 4WD conversion, don’t forget to address the transfer case and driveshafts, as well as ensuring matched gear ratios between the front and rear axles.

5. Steering Components: The steering linkage for the TTB will be different. You’ll need to adapt or replace these to work with your current steering setup.

Potential Pitfalls

• Frame Modifications: Be prepared for some significant frame work to mount everything securely. This isn’t a task for the faint of heart and might require professional fabrication assistance.

• Alignment Challenges: Make sure to set up the front end alignment correctly after the swap to avoid handling issues.

Pro Tips

• Donor Vehicles: Consider finding a donor truck with a complete TTB setup to simplify sourcing parts.

• Measurement and Planning: Take precise measurements and plan your modifications to avoid any surprises during the swap.

Converting from a 2WD to a TTB 4WD system can be complex, but with careful planning and the right resources, it’s achievable. If you need more visual guidance, I’d check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for similar projects—they might have a video that helps. Best of luck!

You’re welcome! If you have any more questions or run into any issues, feel free to reach out. Enjoy the project and keep those wheels turning!

You’re very welcome! It’s totally understandable to have concerns about that swap; these projects can get tricky, but they’re also super rewarding!

Keeping the lighter F-150 frame while using the F-250 components is a good approach, especially if you want to maintain a bit of that nimbleness, but dropping the F-150 body onto the F-250 chassis can be a fantastic option too! That way, you’ll benefit from the stronger F-250 frame, which should handle the added weight and power of the 460 much better.

Here are some things to consider if you decide to go that route:

1. Fitment: Make sure the body mounts line up properly between the two frames. You may need to do some custom mounting or adjustments to get everything to fit just right.

2. Height Differences: Keep an eye on the height of the F-250 frame compared to the F-150. You might end up with a higher ride height, which could affect your center of gravity. Adjusting the suspension could help to level things out.

3. Drivetrain Alignment: Ensure that the drivetrain (engine, transmission, driveshaft) lines up correctly once you drop the body onto the F-250 frame.

4. Wiring and Dash Components: There might be some differences in the wiring harnesses, especially if you’re using components from different model years. Just make sure to document everything for a smoother install.

5. Weight Distribution: The F-250 frame is built to handle more weight, so it should be more stable with the bigger engine. That could enhance your overall ride quality and performance, especially under load.

6. Future Modifications: If you plan to do any further modifications, like adding towing capacity or off-road enhancements, starting with the F-250 frame can provide a solid foundation.

You’re on the right track thinking about these options! Whatever you decide, it’s bound to be an impressive build. If you have any further questions or need advice on specifics, feel free to reach out. Happy wrenching!

That sounds like a blast! Setting up your Bullnose for off-road adventures is such a great way to enjoy your truck. With a solid platform like the F-250 chassis and the 460 engine, you’re already on your way to an off-road beast!

When it comes to suspension, here are some key points to keep in mind:

1. Lift Kit: If you’re planning to tackle some serious off-roading, consider investing in a good lift kit. A 4 to 6-inch lift will give you more ground clearance, which is essential for navigating rocks and rough terrain. Plus, it’ll allow you to fit larger tires.

2. Quality Shocks: Look for high-performance shocks designed for off-road use. They’ll help absorb the impact from bumps and rugged trails. Brands like Fox or Bilstein are popular choices among off-road enthusiasts.

3. Leaf Springs: If you’re keeping the stock leaf springs, you might want to upgrade them to heavy-duty or off-road-rated springs. This will improve load capacity and ride quality when hitting the trails.

4. Sway Bars: If your truck has sway bars, consider adjustable or disconnectable ones. This can help with articulation when you’re off-roading, allowing the wheels to move up and down more freely over obstacles.

5. Tires: Don’t forget about the tires! A good set of all-terrain or mud-terrain tires will improve traction significantly. Make sure they fit within your wheel wells after lifting the truck.

6. Alignment: After making any suspension changes, get a proper alignment. This will help ensure that your tires wear evenly and that the truck handles well on and off the road.

7. Skid Plates: Consider adding skid plates to protect your undercarriage, especially with the bigger engine and any off-roading you’ll be doing. This will help you avoid damage from rocks and uneven surfaces.

If you’re looking for inspiration, check out some off-road builds on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They often share invaluable tips and ideas that can help you with your project.

Once you get that suspension dialed in, you’ll be ready to hit the trails with confidence! If you have more questions or need specific advice as you move forward, just let me know. I’m here to help!

Absolutely! There are a few solid options out there for floor shifter kits that work well with the NP435 transmission in your Bullnose F-150. Here are a couple of recommendations:

1. Hurst Shifter Kits

• Hurst offers a great reputation and quality when it comes to shifters. Their kits are well-engineered and provide a smooth, positive shift feel. Look for their specific NP435 shifter kit; it should include everything you need for a straightforward installation.

2. B&M Floor Shifter Kits

• B&M is another popular choice among gearheads. They have a variety of shifter kits that are compatible with the NP435. Their products typically come with detailed instructions, making installation easier for DIYers.

3. Lokar Shifter Kits

• If you’re looking for something with a bit more style, Lokar offers shifter kits that boast a vintage look with modern performance. Their kits often come with a variety of options for knobs and finishes, allowing you to customize the interior of your Bullnose.

4. DIY Solutions

• If you’re feeling adventurous, some enthusiasts opt for a custom or DIY approach using generic shifter components. You’ll need to source parts that work with NP435 and ensure proper linkage, but this can lead to a unique setup tailored to your preferences.

Where to Buy

You can typically find these kits online at major auto parts retailers like Summit Racing, Jegs, or even Amazon. Local hot rod shops might also have them in stock.

Each kit will have its own set of instructions, so be sure to read through those carefully. And, as always, check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for any install tips or tricks that might help you along the way. Happy swapping, and let me know if you need anything else!

Yes, you’ll definitely want to plug the old holes where the column shifter was mounted once you’ve completed the swap to a floor shifter. This will help maintain a clean appearance in your interior and prevent any unwanted debris or moisture from entering the cab. Here are a couple of options for addressing those holes:

1. Rubber or Plastic Plugs

• You can find rubber or plastic plugs at most auto parts stores or online. These are designed to fit various hole sizes and can be a quick and effective way to seal off the old holes.

2. Metal or Fabricated Plates

• If you want a more permanent and aesthetically pleasing solution, consider fabricating a small plate or using a metal cover to seal the holes. You can paint it to match your interior or use a simple black or silver finish for a clean look.

3. Body Filler

• For a more involved approach, you could use body filler to fill the holes completely, then sand and paint the area to match your truck’s interior. This method requires more work but can result in a seamless finish.

Final Tip

Make sure whatever method you choose is secure and weather-resistant, especially if your truck sees any outdoor use. Keeping your Bullnose looking sharp is half the fun! If you need more tips or have other questions, feel free to ask!

Surface rust is definitely something to keep an eye on, but it’s not always a cause for alarm! If you catch it early, you can often address it before it becomes a bigger issue. Here are a few key points about surface rust on your Bullnose:

What to Look For

• Appearance: Surface rust usually appears as light discoloration or patches of rust on the metal. If it’s just a small spot, you might not need to panic.
• Location: Check common areas like the fenders, the bed, and the frame. If it’s on a non-structural part, you have a bit more leeway.

Should You Worry?

• Yes, but gently: While surface rust can often be treated without major repairs, ignoring it can lead to deeper rust issues. If it spreads, it could compromise the integrity of the metal.
• Rust Prevention: If you see it, clean it up before it gets worse. You can use sandpaper or a wire brush to remove the rust, then apply primer and paint to protect the bare metal.

Remedies

• DIY Fixes: If you’re comfortable, you can handle these small fixes yourself. It’s a great project to tackle on a weekend! Just grab some supplies from your local auto parts store.
• Professional Help: If the rust has spread a bit more than you’d like or you’re not sure about your skills, it’s always a good idea to consult with a professional.

Remember, keeping your Bullnose looking its best is part of the fun! Plus, it’ll help maintain that classic charm. If you’re ever unsure, you can always check out resources like the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for more hands-on advice. Happy truckin’!

Absolutely, getting your 1984 F-150 up to snuff after sitting for a while is a fantastic project! Here’s a handy checklist to help you tackle the maintenance and cleaning. We’ll break it down into categories so you can keep organized.

1. Fluids

• Engine Oil: Change the oil and filter. Use a high-quality oil suitable for older engines.
• Transmission Fluid: Check the level and condition. If it’s dark or smells burnt, it’s time for a change.
• Coolant: Flush the cooling system and replace with fresh coolant.
• Brake Fluid: Check for moisture and replace if necessary.
• Power Steering Fluid: Top off if low; consider a change if it’s been a while.
• Differential Fluid: Inspect and replace if it’s been too long since the last change.

2. Filters

• Air Filter: Replace to improve airflow to the engine.
• Fuel Filter: Change this to ensure clean fuel delivery.
• Cabin Filter: Replace if equipped; it helps with air quality inside.

3. Belts and Hoses

• Inspect Belts: Look for cracks or wear. Replace if any signs of damage are found.
• Check Hoses: Look for leaks, cracks, or bulging; replace as necessary.

4. Brake System

• Inspect Brake Pads and Rotors: Check for wear and replace if they’re too thin.
• Brake Lines: Look for corrosion or leaks in the lines.

5. Suspension and Steering

• Shocks/Struts: Inspect for leaks or wear.
• Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends: Check for play or damage.
• Bushings: Examine for cracking or wear.

6. Tires

• Check Tread Depth: Ensure they’re safe to drive on.
• Inspect Sidewalls: Look for cracks or bulges.
• Check Alignment: After sitting, it’s a good idea to check the alignment.

7. Electrical System

• Battery: Check charge and connections; clean corrosion off terminals.
• Lights: Test all lights, including headlights, brake lights, and turn signals.
• Fuses: Check for any blown fuses.

8. Cleaning

• Exterior Wash and Wax: Give the truck a good wash and apply wax to protect the paint.
• Interior Cleaning: Vacuum and clean the interior; consider treating vinyl or leather surfaces.
• Underbody Cleaning: If accessible, clean the undercarriage to remove any dirt or rust.

9. Inspection

• Check for Rust: Look under the truck, especially in the wheel wells and frame.
• Listen for Unusual Noises: While driving, pay attention to any odd sounds that could indicate issues.

10. Miscellaneous

• Documentation: Keep a maintenance log for future reference.
• Test Drive: Take it for a spin and pay attention to how it feels and sounds.

Once you’ve gone through this checklist, you should have a solid foundation to enjoy your Bullnose for many more miles! Feel free to reach out if you have specific questions on any of these points, and don’t forget to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for some great visual guides. Happy wrenching!