Category Bullnose Bill Answer

Can replacing the starter module fix misfires and a rough idle on a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat?


Bullnose Bill beside a red-white 1986 F250, pointing at the engine while explaining starter module, misfires, and rough idle.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

A misfire and rough idle are usually not directly related to the starter module. The starter module’s main job is to help start the engine. Once the engine is running, the module isn’t involved.

Possible Causes for Misfires and Rough Idle:

  1. Ignition System:

    • Spark Plugs and Wires: Worn plugs or damaged wires can cause misfires.
    • Distributor Cap and Rotor: Check for wear or carbon tracking.
    • Ignition Coil: A failing coil might not provide enough spark.
  2. Fuel System:

    • Fuel Filter: A clogged filter can reduce fuel flow.
    • Fuel Pump: If it’s weak, you might have fuel delivery issues.
    • Injectors: Dirty or clogged injectors can cause problems.
  3. Air Intake System:

    • Vacuum Leaks: Check hoses and gaskets for leaks.
    • Air Filter: A dirty filter can restrict airflow.
  4. Sensors:

    • O2 Sensors: Faulty sensors can affect fuel mixture.
    • MAP/MAF Sensors: If they’re sending incorrect signals, it can cause a rough idle.

Steps to Diagnose:

  • Check for Trouble Codes: If you have an OBD-I scanner, see if any codes are stored.
  • Inspect Ignition Components: Look for obvious signs of wear or damage.
  • Test Fuel Pressure: Ensure your fuel pump and filter are working properly.
  • Inspect for Vacuum Leaks: Listen for hissing sounds or use carb cleaner around gaskets and hoses.

If you’re unsure or need a deeper dive, there might be a video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that covers some of these diagnostics. You can also check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit for shared experiences from other enthusiasts.

Feel free to ask if you have more details or need further guidance!


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User:

Can a stock 1986 F250 XLT Lariat fit 33-inch tires without modifications?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Fitting 33-inch tires on a stock 1986 F250 XLT Lariat is possible, but you might run into a few challenges.

Considerations:

  1. Clearance:

    • You may experience some rubbing, especially during full turns or when the suspension is compressed.
  2. Suspension:

    • A slight lift (like a leveling kit) might be needed to provide enough clearance for those larger tires.
  3. Gearing:

    • Larger tires can affect your gearing and overall performance. You might notice a drop in acceleration or increased strain on the drivetrain.
  4. Speedometer:

    • Your speedometer may read incorrectly due to the larger tire diameter.

Recommendations:

  • Test Fit: If possible, test fit the tires to see if they clear.
  • Consider a Lift: A small suspension lift can make all the difference.
  • Adjust Gearing: If performance is affected, consider re-gearing the differential.

If you need a more detailed guide, the Bullnose Garage channel might have content on suspension setup and tire fitting. Let me know if you need more help!

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User:

What lift or leveling height is needed to fit 12-inch-wide tires on a 1986 F250?

Bill avatar
Bill:

To fit 33×12.5-inch tires on your 1986 F250, a small lift or leveling kit should suffice, but you’ll need to consider a few things:

Lift Recommendations:

  1. Leveling Kit (1.5 to 2 inches):

    • This may provide enough clearance for the wider tires, especially if you’re mainly concerned about rubbing at the front.
  2. Suspension Lift (2 to 4 inches):

    • A lift in this range ensures better clearance and reduces the chance of rubbing when turning or articulating.

Additional Considerations:

  • Wheel Backspacing:

    • Ensure your wheels have the correct backspacing to avoid inner fender contact.
  • Fender Trimming:

    • Minor trimming of the fender or inner fender liner might be necessary, depending on your specific setup.
  • Alignment:

    • After lifting, get a proper alignment to ensure good handling and tire wear.

It’s always a good idea to see if there’s relevant info on the Bullnose Garage channel or check with fellow enthusiasts on the Bullnose Ford subreddit. Let me know if you need more guidance!

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User:

What is the typical cost for a leveling kit for a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat?

Bill avatar
Bill:

A leveling kit for your 1986 F250 typically costs between $50 and $200, depending on the brand and components included. Here’s what to consider:

Cost Breakdown:

  1. Basic Kits:

    • Simple spacers usually range from $50 to $100.
  2. Premium Kits:

    • Kits with additional components like new shocks or extended coils can cost between $150 to $200.

Installation:

  • DIY Installation:

    • If you’re handy with tools, you can save on labor costs by installing it yourself.
  • Professional Installation:

    • Expect to pay an additional $100 to $300 for a shop to do the install, depending on local rates.

Recommendations:

  • Research Brands: Read reviews and consider reputable brands for quality.
  • Consider a Package: Some kits come with alignment options or additional hardware.

If you’re diving into this project, it might be worth checking the Bullnose Garage channel for installation tips or tutorials.

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User:

What are the best performance and reliability upgrades for a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat SuperCab?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Upgrading your 1986 F250 XLT Lariat SuperCab can enhance its performance, comfort, and style. Here are some top upgrades to consider:

Performance Upgrades:

  1. Exhaust System:

    • A high-flow exhaust can improve horsepower and give your truck a deeper tone.
  2. Air Intake:

    • A cold air intake increases airflow to the engine, boosting performance.
  3. Ignition System:

    • Upgrading to high-performance spark plugs and wires can improve efficiency and firing consistency.
  4. Suspension:

    • Consider upgrading to heavy-duty shocks or a small lift for better ride quality and off-road capability.

Comfort and Convenience:

  1. Interior Refresh:

    • New seat covers, dash pads, or carpet kits can rejuvenate the cabin.
  2. Sound System:

    • A modern stereo with Bluetooth and upgraded speakers enhances your driving experience.
  3. AC System:

    • If your AC is lacking, consider a retrofit or upgrade kit for better cooling.

Exterior Enhancements:

  1. Lighting:

    • LED headlights and auxiliary lights improve visibility and appearance.
  2. Wheels and Tires:

    • A fresh set of wheels and tires can transform the truck’s look and performance.
  3. Body Protection:

    • Add features like grille guards or bed liners for durability and utility.

Practical Tips:

  • Budget Wisely: Prioritize upgrades based on your needs and budget.
  • Research: Look for quality parts from reputable sources.

For more detailed guides, check out Bullnose Garage videos or the Bullnose Ford subreddit for advice from other enthusiasts. Let me know if you need more specific info on any of these upgrades!

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User:

Which Detroit Diesel engine swaps are compatible with a 1986 F250 chassis?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Swapping a Detroit Diesel into your 1986 F250 is a hefty project, but a popular choice is the Detroit Diesel 4-53. Here’s what you need to know:

Compatibility and Considerations:

  1. Engine Size and Weight:

    • The 4-53 is a relatively compact option for a diesel swap, but it’s still heavier than a gas engine. Make sure your suspension can handle the added weight.
  2. Transmission:

    • You’ll likely need a different transmission or an adapter for your existing one. The manual transmissions (like the T-19) might pair better with a diesel.
  3. Motor Mounts and Fabrication:

    • Custom motor mounts and fabrication work will be necessary to fit the engine in the bay.
  4. Cooling System:

    • Upgrade the radiator and cooling system to handle the diesel engine’s heat output.
  5. Electrical and Fuel Systems:

    • Diesel engines require different electrical and fuel system setups. Plan for wiring changes and a diesel fuel tank.

Challenges:

  • Space Constraints: Ensure you have enough room in the engine bay.
  • Regulatory Compliance: Check local emissions and swap regulations.

Recommendations:

  • Research Thoroughly: Look at forums and communities for guidance from those who’ve done similar swaps.
  • Professional Help: Consider consulting a professional for parts of the swap if you’re not experienced with diesel engines.

If you’re looking for more info or inspiration, the Bullnose Garage channel or Bullnose Ford subreddit might have related content. Let me know if you have other questions!

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What is the value of a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat extended-cab long bed with 44K miles, 460 V8, automatic, minimal surface rust, and working options?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Valuing a classic like your 1986 F250 XLT Lariat involves several factors. Here’s a breakdown:

Factors Affecting Value:

  1. Condition:

    • Minimal rust and low mileage (44k) are huge positives.
  2. Original Features:

    • Factory bucket seats, functional AC, and power options add to its value.
  3. Engine and Transmission:

    • A functioning 460 motor and automatic transmission are desirable.
  4. Market Demand:

    • Interest in Bullnose Fords has been rising, which can increase value.

Estimated Value:

  • General Range:

    • You might see values from $10,000 to $20,000, depending on the buyer and market.
  • Regional Variations:

    • Prices can vary based on location and demand in your area.

Tips for Maximizing Value:

  1. Documentation:

    • Keep any service records and original paperwork.
  2. Cosmetics:

    • Address any minor cosmetic issues, like surface rust, to enhance appeal.
  3. Market Research:

    • Check online listings and auctions for similar vehicles to gauge current trends.

Remember, actual sales can vary, so it’s wise to consult with a classic car appraiser for a more precise valuation. If you want to connect with other enthusiasts, the Bullnose Ford subreddit could be a helpful community.

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User:

How do complete service records and an Illinois (Midwest) location affect the resale value of my 1986 F250?

Bill avatar
Bill:

With complete service records and being in Illinois, your 1986 F250 XLT Lariat is in a good spot for value. Here’s a refined estimate:

Midwest Market Value:

  • Estimated Range: $12,000 to $22,000.
    • Top End: Exceptional condition and documentation can push you toward the higher end.

Selling Tips:

  1. Highlight Documentation:

    • Emphasize complete service history in listings.
  2. Local Demand:

    • Check local classifieds and online marketplaces to see what similar trucks are listed for.
  3. Showcase Condition:

    • High-quality photos and detailed descriptions can attract more serious buyers.

Remember, prices fluctuate, so it’s wise to see what’s happening in the market. Good luck! If you need more advice, feel free to ask.

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User:

What are good names for a red-and-white 1986 ‘Bullnose’ F250?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Naming your Bullnose is a fun way to personalize it. Here are a few suggestions:

  1. Big Red
  2. Rusty
  3. Crimson Cruiser
  4. Bullseye
  5. Scarlet Steed
  6. Cherry Bomb
  7. Old Glory
  8. Red Rover

Choose a name that resonates with your truck’s personality and your style. Enjoy the ride!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Resistor wire and ignition coil compatibility for 1980-1986 Ford F-Series trucks


Bullnose Bill points to a 1980s Ford F-Series ignition coil and resistor wire, explaining fitment and failure signs.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Alright, let’s dive into the ignition coil resistor wire for your Bullnose Ford. This wire is a key component in the ignition system, reducing the voltage from the battery to prevent coil overheating.

Purpose of the Resistor Wire

  • Voltage Reduction: The resistor wire drops the voltage from 12 volts to about 9 volts during normal operation. This prolongs the life of your ignition coil and points.
  • Starting: During engine start, full battery voltage bypasses the resistor to provide a hotter spark.

Common Issues

  1. Starting Problems: If the truck cranks but doesn’t start, a faulty resistor wire might not be delivering the right voltage.
  2. Overheating Coil: If the coil gets too hot, the resistor wire might be bypassed or shorted.
  3. Voltage Testing: Use a multimeter to check voltage at the coil with the engine running. You should see around 9 volts.

Replacement Tips

  • OEM Spec: Stick with OEM-spec resistor wire to ensure proper voltage drop.
  • Routing: Ensure the wire is routed away from heat sources to prevent damage.
  • Connections: Check all connections for corrosion or looseness, which can cause voltage drop issues.

Pro Tips

  • Bypass During Testing: Temporarily bypass the resistor wire for testing purposes, but don’t run it this way for long — it’ll wear out the coil.
  • Check Grounds: Make sure all grounds are clean and secure, as poor grounding can mimic resistor wire issues.

If you’re unsure about any step, checking out related videos on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel might be helpful. If you’ve got more questions, feel free to ask!


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User:

Where to find replacement resistor wire and ignition coil for 1980-1986 Ford F-Series

Bill avatar

Bill:

Finding a replacement resistor wire for your Bullnose Ford can be straightforward if you know where to look. Here are some options:

Where to Find Replacement Resistor Wire

  1. Auto Parts Stores: Check out local stores like AutoZone, NAPA, or O’Reilly. They often have listings for classic Ford ignition parts.

  2. Online Retailers: Websites like RockAuto or Summit Racing offer a wide range of parts for older vehicles. Just ensure the part matches your truck’s year and model.

  3. Specialty Suppliers: Consider suppliers that specialize in classic Ford parts. They might offer more accurate OEM-style replacements.

  4. Salvage Yards: Sometimes, you can find usable parts in salvage yards. It’s a bit of a treasure hunt, but you might get lucky.

Installation Tips

  • Compare Before Installing: Make sure the new wire matches the length and resistance of the original.
  • Secure Properly: Use clips or ties to keep the wire away from high heat or moving parts.

If you’re still searching, there may be more specific advice or suggestions on the Bullnose Ford subreddit, which can be a great resource. Let me know if there’s anything else you need!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What is the engine oil capacity for a 1986 F-150 XLT Lariat with the 351W Windsor V8?


Bullnose Bill pointing at the 351W engine bay of a 1986 F-150 XLT Lariat while explaining oil and fluids.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

For your 1986 F-150 with a 351 Windsor, you’ll need about 6 quarts of oil, including the oil filter. Always double-check the dipstick after filling to ensure it’s at the correct level. Make sure to use the right viscosity, typically 10W-30, but check your owner’s manual or local climate recommendations. If you need more maintenance tips, feel free to ask!


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User:

How much transmission fluid does a 1986 F-150 XLT Lariat with the 351W hold?

Bill avatar

Bill:

For your 1986 F-150 with a 351W, the type and amount of transmission fluid depend on the transmission model:

Automatic Transmission (C6)

  • Fluid Type: Mercon/Dexron III
  • Capacity: Around 12-13 quarts for a full system drain and refill, but about 4-5 quarts if you’re just doing a pan drop and filter change.

Manual Transmission (if applicable, such as T-18)

  • Fluid Type: Use gear oil, typically 80W-90.
  • Capacity: About 3.5 to 4 quarts.

Always check the specific service manual for exact specifications and consider inspecting the condition of the fluid and filter. Let me know if you have more questions!

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User:

Does a 1986 F-150 351W require Mercon or Dexron III transmission fluid?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Yes, for your C6 automatic transmission, Mercon/Dexron III is recommended. It’s formulated to provide the right friction characteristics and protection. While there are newer fluids on the market, sticking with Mercon/Dexron III ensures compatibility and performance. If you have any concerns or modifications, it’s always a good idea to consult a transmission specialist.

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User:

How much coolant is needed to flush and refill the cooling system on a 1986 F-150 351W?

Bill avatar

Bill:

For your 1986 F-150, you’ll need about 16-18 quarts of coolant for a complete flush and refill of the cooling system. This includes the radiator, engine block, and heater core.

Tips:

  • Mix: Use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water unless you’re using pre-mixed coolant.
  • Type: An ethylene glycol-based coolant is typically recommended.
  • Bleeding: After refilling, make sure to properly bleed air from the system to avoid air pockets, which can cause overheating.

Feel free to ask more if you need help with the flushing process!

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User:

What is the proper procedure to bleed air from the cooling system on a 1986 F-150 351W?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Bleeding the air from your cooling system is crucial to prevent overheating. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Steps to Bleed Air from the Cooling System

  1. Park on Level Ground:

    • Ensure your truck is on a flat surface and the engine is cool.
  2. Open the Radiator Cap:

    • Remove the radiator cap to release any pressure.
  3. Fill the Radiator:

    • Fill the radiator with a 50/50 coolant mix until it’s full.
  4. Fill the Coolant Reservoir:

    • Make sure the coolant reservoir is filled to the "Full" line.
  5. Start the Engine:

    • Turn on the engine and let it idle. Set the heater to the maximum setting to help circulate coolant.
  6. Observe Coolant Level:

    • As the engine warms, air bubbles may escape, causing the coolant level to drop. Add more coolant as needed.
  7. Rev the Engine Gently:

    • Occasionally rev the engine gently (around 2000 RPM) to help purge air pockets.
  8. Check for Air Bubbles:

    • Watch for escaping bubbles at the radiator opening. Continue until bubbles stop appearing.
  9. Replace the Radiator Cap:

    • Once the system is bled and coolant level is stable, replace the radiator cap.
  10. Monitor and Test Drive:

    • Take the truck for a short drive, then check coolant levels again once the engine cools.

Pro Tips

  • Heater Output: If the heater doesn’t blow hot air, there might still be air in the system.
  • Safety: Use caution, as coolant can reach high temperatures.

Let me know if you have more questions!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Why does my 1986 F-250 460 shut off, blow the solenoid fuse, and restart after resetting it?


Bullnose Bill points to a 1986 F-250 460 engine bay while explaining solenoid fuse, ICM, and grounding causing stalls.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Alright, let’s dig into this. It sounds like you’re dealing with an electrical short that’s causing your fuse to blow. Here’s a step-by-step approach to diagnose and fix the issue:

1. Inspect the Wiring:

  • Solenoid Wiring: Check the wires connected to the solenoid for any visible damage, like fraying or cracks. Pay special attention to areas where the wires might rub against metal parts.
  • Look for Short Circuits: Trace the wiring back to the ignition switch and battery. Any exposed wires touching metal can cause a short.

2. Check Connections:

  • Tight and Clean: Ensure all connections to the solenoid and battery are tight and free of corrosion. A loose connection can cause intermittent issues.
  • Grounds: Verify that your engine and body grounds are secure and clean.

3. Inspect the Solenoid:

  • Internal Faults: A faulty solenoid might cause a short. If it’s old or showing signs of wear, consider replacing it.

4. Examine the Fuse Box:

  • Proper Fuse Rating: Double-check that you’re using the correct fuse rating for that circuit.
  • Corrosion or Damage: Inspect the fuse box for corrosion or signs of damage that might affect the circuit.

5. Test Components:

  • Ignition Switch: Faulty ignition switches can cause intermittent power loss. Test or replace if needed.
  • Alternator and Battery: Make sure both are in good working order. Voltage spikes from a failing alternator could cause electrical issues.

6. Use a Multimeter:

  • Continuity Tests: Use a multimeter to check for continuity and find where the short might be occurring in the circuit.

Pro Tip:

  • Consult a Wiring Diagram: A wiring diagram for your specific year and model can help immensely in tracing the circuit and identifying potential problem areas.

If you’re still stumped, you might want to check out community resources like the Bullnose Ford subreddit for additional insights or see if there’s a related video on the Bullnose Garage channel.

Let me know if you need more details on any of these steps!


User avatar

User:

I’ve installed a new solenoid, ignition switch, ICM, rotor, cap, and plug wires — what else could cause the fuse-blow and stalling?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Alright, with those new parts, we can narrow it down further. Since the problem persists, it’s likely an issue with the wiring or connections. Let’s focus on those:

Further Steps:

  1. Re-check Wiring:

    • Inspect New Connections: Double-check the installation of your new parts. Ensure all connectors are fully seated and wires are properly routed.
  2. Trace Wires Thoroughly:

    • Look for Pinched or Damaged Wires: Follow the wires from the solenoid, ignition switch, and ICM to ensure none are pinched or damaged during the installation.
  3. Check Grounds:

    • Verify New Component Grounds: Make sure all grounds related to your new components are clean and secure.
  4. Fuse Box Inspection:

    • Thoroughly Inspect Fuse Box: Sometimes, issues can arise from within the fuse box itself, such as loose connections or internal faults.
  5. Multimeter Testing:

    • Check for Continuity: Use the multimeter again to verify there’s no short to ground in the circuits related to the fuse that’s blowing.

Pro Tip:

  • Consider Heat: Intermittent issues might also be heat-related. Check if any wires are close to hot engine components and could be causing temporary shorts when they expand or shift.

If the problem continues, you might need to go wire by wire. Electrical gremlins can be a real pain, but patience and thoroughness usually win the day.

Keep me posted on your progress!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Is there a preferred Ford 300 I6 year for turboing and swapping into a 1986 Ford? Which transmissions bolt to a 351W 4×4?


Bullnose Bill with a 300 I6 block and a 351W bellhousing, explaining turbo swap and transmission fitment for an '86 Ford.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

The Ford 300 Inline-Six is a solid engine, known for its durability and torque. When it comes to turbocharging, there are a few things to consider:

Preferred Year of the 300

  • Late 80s and 90s Models: These have fuel injection, which can be beneficial for turbo applications. You can convert an older carbureted model to EFI, but it’s extra work.
  • Strength and Durability: The basic design didn’t change much over the years, so they’re all pretty robust. If your ’72 engine is in good shape, it can work well with a turbo setup.

Turbocharging Tips

  • Compression Ratio: Keep an eye on the compression ratio. Lower compression is often better for forced induction to prevent detonation.
  • Fuel System: Ensure your fuel system can handle the increased demand for fuel.
  • Exhaust and Cooling: A good exhaust system and an upgraded cooling system are essential to manage the additional heat.

Transmissions for 351W in 4WD

For a 4WD setup with a 351W, you’ll want a transmission that can handle the power:

  • C6 Automatic: A heavy-duty option that can be found in many older Ford trucks.
  • ZF5 Manual: A robust five-speed manual transmission that pairs well with the 351W.
  • E4OD Automatic: An electronically controlled automatic, but you’ll need to manage the electronics.

Things to Remember

  • Transfer Case Compatibility: Make sure your transfer case mates up with the transmission you choose.
  • Driveshaft Modifications: You might need driveshaft adjustments depending on the transmission length.

Turbocharging and engine swaps can get complex, so plan each phase carefully. There may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage channel — worth a look for more insights.

If you have more questions, feel free to ask!


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What parts and steps are required to swap a Ford C6 automatic for a T18 manual in 1980–1986 F-series trucks?


Bullnose Bill pointing to a 1980s Ford clutch and T18 gearbox while explaining the C6-to-T18 swap.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Swapping from a C6 automatic to a T18 manual transmission is a solid choice for durability and control. Here’s a rundown of what you’ll need and consider:

Parts Required

  1. T18 Transmission:

    • Make sure it’s in good condition. Check for any worn gears or syncros.
  2. Clutch Assembly:

    • You’ll need the clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing compatible with the T18.
  3. Flywheel:

    • The flywheel from a manual transmission setup. It must match your engine’s balance (either internally or externally balanced).
  4. Bellhousing:

    • A bellhousing that fits both your engine and the T18.
  5. Clutch Pedal Assembly:

    • This includes the clutch pedal and any associated linkage or hydraulic components, depending on your setup.
  6. Clutch Linkage or Hydraulic System:

    • If your truck uses a mechanical linkage, make sure everything is intact. For hydraulic systems, ensure the master and slave cylinders are in good shape.
  7. Driveshaft:

    • You might need to modify the length, as the T18 can be a different length than the C6.
  8. Crossmember and Mount:

    • Check if the crossmember needs adjustment or if a new mount is necessary.
  9. Shifter and Boot:

    • A T18 shifter with a boot to seal the cab.
  10. Floor Pan Cover:

    • You might need to modify the floor pan or get a cover for the new shifter location.

Additional Considerations

  • Starter: Ensure the starter is compatible with the manual flywheel.
  • Transmission Cooler: You can remove the C6’s cooler if you’re not using it elsewhere.
  • Wiring: It might be necessary to change or bypass the neutral safety switch wiring.
  • Gear Ratios: Be prepared for the different gear ratios. The T18 has a very low first gear, which is great for torque but may take some getting used to.

Pro Tips

  • Match the Transmission to the Engine: Make sure your flywheel and clutch are the correct size for the engine you’re working with.
  • Documentation: Keep track of all parts and take photos during disassembly for easier reassembly.
  • Community: Check out resources like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or the Bullnose Garage channel for more insights and community help.

Swapping transmissions can be a rewarding project that improves your truck’s capability and driving experience. Good luck, and feel free to reach out with more questions!


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This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


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