Bullnose Bill Answer Archives - Page 2 of 13

by Ed November 18, 2025

What is the engine oil capacity for a 1986 F-150 XLT Lariat with the 351W Windsor V8?

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

For your 1986 F-150 with a 351 Windsor, you’ll need about 6 quarts of oil, including the oil filter. Always double-check the dipstick after filling to ensure it’s at the correct level. Make sure to use the right viscosity, typically 10W-30, but check your owner’s manual or local climate recommendations. If you need more maintenance tips, feel free to ask!

User:

How much transmission fluid does a 1986 F-150 XLT Lariat with the 351W hold?

Bill:

For your 1986 F-150 with a 351W, the type and amount of transmission fluid depend on the transmission model:

Automatic Transmission (C6)

Fluid Type: Mercon/Dexron III
Capacity: Around 12-13 quarts for a full system drain and refill, but about 4-5 quarts if you’re just doing a pan drop and filter change.

Manual Transmission (if applicable, such as T-18)

Fluid Type: Use gear oil, typically 80W-90.
Capacity: About 3.5 to 4 quarts.

Always check the specific service manual for exact specifications and consider inspecting the condition of the fluid and filter. Let me know if you have more questions!

User:

Does a 1986 F-150 351W require Mercon or Dexron III transmission fluid?

Bill:

Yes, for your C6 automatic transmission, Mercon/Dexron III is recommended. It’s formulated to provide the right friction characteristics and protection. While there are newer fluids on the market, sticking with Mercon/Dexron III ensures compatibility and performance. If you have any concerns or modifications, it’s always a good idea to consult a transmission specialist.

User:

How much coolant is needed to flush and refill the cooling system on a 1986 F-150 351W?

Bill:

For your 1986 F-150, you’ll need about 16-18 quarts of coolant for a complete flush and refill of the cooling system. This includes the radiator, engine block, and heater core.

Tips:

Mix: Use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water unless you’re using pre-mixed coolant.
Type: An ethylene glycol-based coolant is typically recommended.
Bleeding: After refilling, make sure to properly bleed air from the system to avoid air pockets, which can cause overheating.

Feel free to ask more if you need help with the flushing process!

User:

What is the proper procedure to bleed air from the cooling system on a 1986 F-150 351W?

Bill:

Bleeding the air from your cooling system is crucial to prevent overheating. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Steps to Bleed Air from the Cooling System

Park on Level Ground:
- Ensure your truck is on a flat surface and the engine is cool.
Open the Radiator Cap:
- Remove the radiator cap to release any pressure.
Fill the Radiator:
- Fill the radiator with a 50/50 coolant mix until it’s full.
Fill the Coolant Reservoir:
- Make sure the coolant reservoir is filled to the "Full" line.
Start the Engine:
- Turn on the engine and let it idle. Set the heater to the maximum setting to help circulate coolant.
Observe Coolant Level:
- As the engine warms, air bubbles may escape, causing the coolant level to drop. Add more coolant as needed.
Rev the Engine Gently:
- Occasionally rev the engine gently (around 2000 RPM) to help purge air pockets.
Check for Air Bubbles:
- Watch for escaping bubbles at the radiator opening. Continue until bubbles stop appearing.
Replace the Radiator Cap:
- Once the system is bled and coolant level is stable, replace the radiator cap.
Monitor and Test Drive:
- Take the truck for a short drive, then check coolant levels again once the engine cools.

Pro Tips

Heater Output: If the heater doesn’t blow hot air, there might still be air in the system.
Safety: Use caution, as coolant can reach high temperatures.

Let me know if you have more questions!

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bill Answer

by Ed November 18, 2025

Why does my 1986 F-250 460 shut off, blow the solenoid fuse, and restart after resetting it?

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Alright, let’s dig into this. It sounds like you’re dealing with an electrical short that’s causing your fuse to blow. Here’s a step-by-step approach to diagnose and fix the issue:

1. Inspect the Wiring:

Solenoid Wiring: Check the wires connected to the solenoid for any visible damage, like fraying or cracks. Pay special attention to areas where the wires might rub against metal parts.
Look for Short Circuits: Trace the wiring back to the ignition switch and battery. Any exposed wires touching metal can cause a short.

2. Check Connections:

Tight and Clean: Ensure all connections to the solenoid and battery are tight and free of corrosion. A loose connection can cause intermittent issues.
Grounds: Verify that your engine and body grounds are secure and clean.

3. Inspect the Solenoid:

Internal Faults: A faulty solenoid might cause a short. If it’s old or showing signs of wear, consider replacing it.

4. Examine the Fuse Box:

Proper Fuse Rating: Double-check that you’re using the correct fuse rating for that circuit.
Corrosion or Damage: Inspect the fuse box for corrosion or signs of damage that might affect the circuit.

5. Test Components:

Ignition Switch: Faulty ignition switches can cause intermittent power loss. Test or replace if needed.
Alternator and Battery: Make sure both are in good working order. Voltage spikes from a failing alternator could cause electrical issues.

6. Use a Multimeter:

Continuity Tests: Use a multimeter to check for continuity and find where the short might be occurring in the circuit.

Pro Tip:

Consult a Wiring Diagram: A wiring diagram for your specific year and model can help immensely in tracing the circuit and identifying potential problem areas.

If you’re still stumped, you might want to check out community resources like the Bullnose Ford subreddit for additional insights or see if there’s a related video on the Bullnose Garage channel.

Let me know if you need more details on any of these steps!

User:

I’ve installed a new solenoid, ignition switch, ICM, rotor, cap, and plug wires — what else could cause the fuse-blow and stalling?

Bill:

Alright, with those new parts, we can narrow it down further. Since the problem persists, it’s likely an issue with the wiring or connections. Let’s focus on those:

Further Steps:

Re-check Wiring:
- Inspect New Connections: Double-check the installation of your new parts. Ensure all connectors are fully seated and wires are properly routed.
Trace Wires Thoroughly:
- Look for Pinched or Damaged Wires: Follow the wires from the solenoid, ignition switch, and ICM to ensure none are pinched or damaged during the installation.
Check Grounds:
- Verify New Component Grounds: Make sure all grounds related to your new components are clean and secure.
Fuse Box Inspection:
- Thoroughly Inspect Fuse Box: Sometimes, issues can arise from within the fuse box itself, such as loose connections or internal faults.
Multimeter Testing:
- Check for Continuity: Use the multimeter again to verify there’s no short to ground in the circuits related to the fuse that’s blowing.

Pro Tip:

Consider Heat: Intermittent issues might also be heat-related. Check if any wires are close to hot engine components and could be causing temporary shorts when they expand or shift.

If the problem continues, you might need to go wire by wire. Electrical gremlins can be a real pain, but patience and thoroughness usually win the day.

Keep me posted on your progress!

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bill Answer

by Ed November 18, 2025

Is there a preferred Ford 300 I6 year for turboing and swapping into a 1986 Ford? Which transmissions bolt to a 351W 4×4?

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

The Ford 300 Inline-Six is a solid engine, known for its durability and torque. When it comes to turbocharging, there are a few things to consider:

Preferred Year of the 300

Late 80s and 90s Models: These have fuel injection, which can be beneficial for turbo applications. You can convert an older carbureted model to EFI, but it’s extra work.
Strength and Durability: The basic design didn’t change much over the years, so they’re all pretty robust. If your ’72 engine is in good shape, it can work well with a turbo setup.

Turbocharging Tips

Compression Ratio: Keep an eye on the compression ratio. Lower compression is often better for forced induction to prevent detonation.
Fuel System: Ensure your fuel system can handle the increased demand for fuel.
Exhaust and Cooling: A good exhaust system and an upgraded cooling system are essential to manage the additional heat.

Transmissions for 351W in 4WD

For a 4WD setup with a 351W, you’ll want a transmission that can handle the power:

C6 Automatic: A heavy-duty option that can be found in many older Ford trucks.
ZF5 Manual: A robust five-speed manual transmission that pairs well with the 351W.
E4OD Automatic: An electronically controlled automatic, but you’ll need to manage the electronics.

Things to Remember

Transfer Case Compatibility: Make sure your transfer case mates up with the transmission you choose.
Driveshaft Modifications: You might need driveshaft adjustments depending on the transmission length.

Turbocharging and engine swaps can get complex, so plan each phase carefully. There may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage channel — worth a look for more insights.

If you have more questions, feel free to ask!

This conversation had no additional replies.

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bill Answer

by Ed November 11, 2025

What parts and steps are required to swap a Ford C6 automatic for a T18 manual in 1980–1986 F-series trucks?

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Swapping from a C6 automatic to a T18 manual transmission is a solid choice for durability and control. Here’s a rundown of what you’ll need and consider:

Parts Required

T18 Transmission:
- Make sure it’s in good condition. Check for any worn gears or syncros.
Clutch Assembly:
- You’ll need the clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing compatible with the T18.
Flywheel:
- The flywheel from a manual transmission setup. It must match your engine’s balance (either internally or externally balanced).
Bellhousing:
- A bellhousing that fits both your engine and the T18.
Clutch Pedal Assembly:
- This includes the clutch pedal and any associated linkage or hydraulic components, depending on your setup.
Clutch Linkage or Hydraulic System:
- If your truck uses a mechanical linkage, make sure everything is intact. For hydraulic systems, ensure the master and slave cylinders are in good shape.
Driveshaft:
- You might need to modify the length, as the T18 can be a different length than the C6.
Crossmember and Mount:
- Check if the crossmember needs adjustment or if a new mount is necessary.
Shifter and Boot:
- A T18 shifter with a boot to seal the cab.
Floor Pan Cover:
- You might need to modify the floor pan or get a cover for the new shifter location.

Additional Considerations

Starter: Ensure the starter is compatible with the manual flywheel.
Transmission Cooler: You can remove the C6’s cooler if you’re not using it elsewhere.
Wiring: It might be necessary to change or bypass the neutral safety switch wiring.
Gear Ratios: Be prepared for the different gear ratios. The T18 has a very low first gear, which is great for torque but may take some getting used to.

Pro Tips

Match the Transmission to the Engine: Make sure your flywheel and clutch are the correct size for the engine you’re working with.
Documentation: Keep track of all parts and take photos during disassembly for easier reassembly.
Community: Check out resources like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or the Bullnose Garage channel for more insights and community help.

Swapping transmissions can be a rewarding project that improves your truck’s capability and driving experience. Good luck, and feel free to reach out with more questions!

This conversation had no additional replies.

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bill Answer

by Ed November 6, 2025

Is there a disc brake conversion kit for a 1985 Ford TTB Dana 44 front axle?

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Absolutely! Upgrading to disc brakes on a 1985 Ford TTB Dana 44 is a popular choice. Here’s a breakdown of what you need to know:

Why Upgrade to Disc Brakes?

Improved Stopping Power: Disc brakes generally provide better stopping power than drums.
Heat Dissipation: They dissipate heat more effectively, reducing brake fade.
Easier Maintenance: Changing pads is usually simpler than dealing with drum systems.

Disc Brake Conversion Kit

Several companies offer conversion kits. Look for kits designed specifically for the TTB Dana 44 to ensure proper fitment. Common parts included are:

Rotors and Calipers: Ensure they’re compatible with the TTB Dana 44.
Brake Pads: Usually included in kits.
Brackets and Hardware: Essential for mounting the calipers and rotors.
Hoses and Lines: Ensure these are rated for your truck’s weight and intended use.

Installation Considerations

Compatibility: Confirm that the kit matches your axle configuration.
Tools Needed: Basic hand tools, a torque wrench, and possibly a brake bleeder.
Time: Set aside a weekend for the swap, especially if it’s your first time.

Pro Tips

Master Cylinder: Sometimes, it’s necessary to upgrade the master cylinder for optimal performance with disc brakes. Check compatibility.
Brake Bias: Consider an adjustable proportioning valve to fine-tune front-to-rear brake bias.
Wheel Compatibility: Make sure your wheels have the necessary clearance for the new brake setup.

Before You Start

Research: Double-check with product reviews and forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit for real-world feedback.
Safety First: Always use jack stands and ensure the vehicle is securely supported before starting work.

If you’re unsure about any specific part of the process, there might be a video on the Bullnose Garage channel to help you out. Happy wrenching!

This conversation had no additional replies.

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bill Answer

by Ed November 6, 2025

Can I use the 302 2bbl flex plate when swapping a rebuilt 1985 351W 4bbl into my 1983 F-150 with a rebuilt C6?

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Great question! When swapping from a 302 to a 351W in your 1983 F-150, you need to pay attention to the imbalance of the engines. The original 302 uses a 50 oz-in imbalance, whereas the 351W uses a 28 oz-in imbalance. This means you’ll need a different flexplate for the 351W.

Flexplate Considerations

Imbalance:
- 302: 50 oz-in
- 351W: 28 oz-in
Tooth Count:
- Both the 302 and 351W commonly use a 164-tooth flexplate for the C6 transmission.
Crankshaft Bolt Pattern:
- Ensure the flexplate matches the bolt pattern of the 351W crankshaft.

What You Need

28 oz-in Imbalance Flexplate: Make sure it has the 164-tooth count for compatibility with your C6 transmission.

Pro Tips

Check Starter Engagement: After installing the new flexplate, verify proper starter engagement to prevent future issues.
Torque Converter Compatibility: Ensure the flexplate’s bolt pattern matches your torque converter.

Installation Advice

Torque Specifications: Use a torque wrench to secure the flexplate bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications to avoid vibration issues.

If you want more detailed guidance, there may be a video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that covers flexplate swaps.

Got any other questions about your Bullnose?

User:

Which torque converter fits a rebuilt 1985 351W 4bbl in my 1983 F-150 with a rebuilt C6—will the 302 2bbl converter work?

Bill:

When swapping from a 302 to a 351W, you can generally use the original torque converter from your C6 transmission. Here’s a rundown:

Torque Converter Considerations

Bolt Pattern:
- Ensure the flexplate bolt pattern matches your existing torque converter. Most C6 converters will work, but double-check fitment.
Stall Speed:
- If you’re keeping the truck mostly stock with 3.50 gears, the original converter’s stall speed should be fine. If you plan on performance upgrades, you might want a higher stall converter.
Condition:
- Inspect your torque converter for wear or damage. Consider rebuilding or replacing it if it’s seen better days.

Installation Tips

Drain and Flush: Make sure to drain and flush the torque converter and transmission cooler to avoid contamination.
Alignment: Properly align the torque converter to the transmission pump to prevent damage.

Pro Tips

Converter Size: Most C6 converters are similar, but verify size and bolt pattern to ensure compatibility with the new flexplate.
Upgrade Considerations: If the engine rebuild includes performance upgrades, consider a torque converter with a suitable stall speed.

If you need more specifics, there might be a relevant discussion on the Bullnose Ford subreddit or a video on the Bullnose Garage channel.

Let me know if there’s anything else on your mind!

This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.