Category Bullnose Bill Answer

The Ford 300 Inline-Six is a solid engine, known for its durability and torque. When it comes to turbocharging, there are a few things to consider:

Preferred Year of the 300

• Late 80s and 90s Models: These have fuel injection, which can be beneficial for turbo applications. You can convert an older carbureted model to EFI, but it’s extra work.
• Strength and Durability: The basic design didn’t change much over the years, so they’re all pretty robust. If your ’72 engine is in good shape, it can work well with a turbo setup.

Turbocharging Tips

• Compression Ratio: Keep an eye on the compression ratio. Lower compression is often better for forced induction to prevent detonation.
• Fuel System: Ensure your fuel system can handle the increased demand for fuel.
• Exhaust and Cooling: A good exhaust system and an upgraded cooling system are essential to manage the additional heat.

Transmissions for 351W in 4WD

For a 4WD setup with a 351W, you’ll want a transmission that can handle the power:

• C6 Automatic: A heavy-duty option that can be found in many older Ford trucks.
• ZF5 Manual: A robust five-speed manual transmission that pairs well with the 351W.
• E4OD Automatic: An electronically controlled automatic, but you’ll need to manage the electronics.

Things to Remember

• Transfer Case Compatibility: Make sure your transfer case mates up with the transmission you choose.
• Driveshaft Modifications: You might need driveshaft adjustments depending on the transmission length.

Turbocharging and engine swaps can get complex, so plan each phase carefully. There may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage channel — worth a look for more insights.

If you have more questions, feel free to ask!

Swapping from a C6 automatic to a T18 manual transmission is a solid choice for durability and control. Here’s a rundown of what you’ll need and consider:

Parts Required

1. T18 Transmission:

   • Make sure it’s in good condition. Check for any worn gears or syncros.

2. Clutch Assembly:

   • You’ll need the clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing compatible with the T18.

3. Flywheel:

   • The flywheel from a manual transmission setup. It must match your engine’s balance (either internally or externally balanced).

4. Bellhousing:

   • A bellhousing that fits both your engine and the T18.

5. Clutch Pedal Assembly:

   • This includes the clutch pedal and any associated linkage or hydraulic components, depending on your setup.

6. Clutch Linkage or Hydraulic System:

   • If your truck uses a mechanical linkage, make sure everything is intact. For hydraulic systems, ensure the master and slave cylinders are in good shape.

7. Driveshaft:

   • You might need to modify the length, as the T18 can be a different length than the C6.

8. Crossmember and Mount:

   • Check if the crossmember needs adjustment or if a new mount is necessary.

9. Shifter and Boot:

   • A T18 shifter with a boot to seal the cab.

10. Floor Pan Cover:

    • You might need to modify the floor pan or get a cover for the new shifter location.

Additional Considerations

• Starter: Ensure the starter is compatible with the manual flywheel.
• Transmission Cooler: You can remove the C6’s cooler if you’re not using it elsewhere.
• Wiring: It might be necessary to change or bypass the neutral safety switch wiring.
• Gear Ratios: Be prepared for the different gear ratios. The T18 has a very low first gear, which is great for torque but may take some getting used to.

Pro Tips

• Match the Transmission to the Engine: Make sure your flywheel and clutch are the correct size for the engine you’re working with.
• Documentation: Keep track of all parts and take photos during disassembly for easier reassembly.
• Community: Check out resources like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or the Bullnose Garage channel for more insights and community help.

Swapping transmissions can be a rewarding project that improves your truck’s capability and driving experience. Good luck, and feel free to reach out with more questions!

Absolutely! Upgrading to disc brakes on a 1985 Ford TTB Dana 44 is a popular choice. Here’s a breakdown of what you need to know:

Why Upgrade to Disc Brakes?

• Improved Stopping Power: Disc brakes generally provide better stopping power than drums.
• Heat Dissipation: They dissipate heat more effectively, reducing brake fade.
• Easier Maintenance: Changing pads is usually simpler than dealing with drum systems.

Disc Brake Conversion Kit

Several companies offer conversion kits. Look for kits designed specifically for the TTB Dana 44 to ensure proper fitment. Common parts included are:

• Rotors and Calipers: Ensure they’re compatible with the TTB Dana 44.
• Brake Pads: Usually included in kits.
• Brackets and Hardware: Essential for mounting the calipers and rotors.
• Hoses and Lines: Ensure these are rated for your truck’s weight and intended use.

Installation Considerations

1. Compatibility: Confirm that the kit matches your axle configuration.
2. Tools Needed: Basic hand tools, a torque wrench, and possibly a brake bleeder.
3. Time: Set aside a weekend for the swap, especially if it’s your first time.

Pro Tips

• Master Cylinder: Sometimes, it’s necessary to upgrade the master cylinder for optimal performance with disc brakes. Check compatibility.
• Brake Bias: Consider an adjustable proportioning valve to fine-tune front-to-rear brake bias.
• Wheel Compatibility: Make sure your wheels have the necessary clearance for the new brake setup.

Before You Start

• Research: Double-check with product reviews and forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit for real-world feedback.
• Safety First: Always use jack stands and ensure the vehicle is securely supported before starting work.

If you’re unsure about any specific part of the process, there might be a video on the Bullnose Garage channel to help you out. Happy wrenching!

Great question! When swapping from a 302 to a 351W in your 1983 F-150, you need to pay attention to the imbalance of the engines. The original 302 uses a 50 oz-in imbalance, whereas the 351W uses a 28 oz-in imbalance. This means you’ll need a different flexplate for the 351W.

Flexplate Considerations

1. Imbalance:

   • 302: 50 oz-in
   • 351W: 28 oz-in

2. Tooth Count:

   • Both the 302 and 351W commonly use a 164-tooth flexplate for the C6 transmission.

3. Crankshaft Bolt Pattern:

   • Ensure the flexplate matches the bolt pattern of the 351W crankshaft.

What You Need

• 28 oz-in Imbalance Flexplate: Make sure it has the 164-tooth count for compatibility with your C6 transmission.

Pro Tips

• Check Starter Engagement: After installing the new flexplate, verify proper starter engagement to prevent future issues.
• Torque Converter Compatibility: Ensure the flexplate’s bolt pattern matches your torque converter.

Installation Advice

• Torque Specifications: Use a torque wrench to secure the flexplate bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications to avoid vibration issues.

If you want more detailed guidance, there may be a video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that covers flexplate swaps.

Got any other questions about your Bullnose?

On a 1986 Ford F-150, the gauge cluster uses 194 bulbs for illumination. These are small wedge-base bulbs that are fairly easy to replace. Here’s a quick guide on swapping them out:

Steps to Replace Gauge Cluster Bulbs

1. Disconnect the Battery: Always disconnect the negative battery cable before working on your vehicle’s electrical system to avoid any shorts.

2. Remove the Dash Bezel:

   • Carefully remove any screws holding the bezel in place.
   • Gently pry the bezel off. Be cautious not to break any clips.

3. Access the Cluster:

   • Unscrew the gauge cluster. It’s usually held in by a few screws around the perimeter.
   • Gently pull the cluster towards you, but don’t yank it out. You’ll need to disconnect the wiring harnesses.

4. Replace the Bulbs:

   • Locate the bulb sockets on the back of the cluster. They twist in and out.
   • Remove the old 194 bulbs from their sockets.
   • Install the new bulbs.

5. Reassemble:

   • Reconnect the wiring harnesses.
   • Secure the cluster back into place with the screws.
   • Reattach the dash bezel and its screws.

6. Reconnect the Battery: Once everything is back in place, reconnect the negative battery cable.

Pro Tips

• Check the Sockets: Make sure the bulb sockets are clean and free of corrosion. This ensures good electrical contact.
• Test Before Reassembly: It’s a good idea to test the new bulbs before fully reassembling to ensure they light up.
• Consider LED Upgrades: If you want brighter or different colored lighting, consider upgrading to LED bulbs. Just make sure they’re compatible with your truck.

If you run into any issues or need further guidance, there may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel — worth a look!

Alright, let’s dig into that cold start issue on your 1983 F350 with the 6.9 IDI. You’ve done a lot already, so let’s focus on a few areas that might still be causing trouble.

Glow Plug System

1. Glow Plugs: Make sure they’re all functioning. If even one is dead, it can cause hard starts. Test them with a multimeter: they should show low resistance. Replace any faulty ones with quality plugs like Motorcraft or Beru.

2. Glow Plug Relay: Check if the relay is clicking on and off as it should. If it’s not functioning, the plugs won’t heat properly.

3. Controller: The glow plug controller can sometimes be the culprit. Verify that it’s sending power to the glow plugs for the correct duration.

Fuel Delivery

1. Air Leaks: Double-check for any air leaks in the fuel lines, especially since you’ve replaced them. Air in the system can lead to starting issues.

2. Fuel Pump Pressure: Since you’ve switched to an electric fuel pump, confirm it’s delivering the correct pressure (around 4-6 PSI for the 6.9 IDI).

Engine Timing

1. Injection Timing: If the timing is off, it can lead to hard starts and excessive smoke. Ensure the injection pump is correctly timed. A slight advance or retardation can make a big difference.

Electrical System

1. Battery and Cables: Ensure the batteries are strong and the cables are clean and tight. The starter needs a good supply to crank effectively, especially in cold weather.

Other Tips

• Block Heater: Using a block heater in colder weather can make a big difference. If you don’t have one, consider adding it.

• Ether Use: Avoid using ether regularly, especially if your glow plugs are active—it can cause damage.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve covered all these and still face issues, there may be a deeper problem, like compression loss, which would require further inspection.

Remember, the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) is also a great place to connect with others who might have faced similar issues. Keep at it—you’re on the right track!