Category Bullnose Bill Answer

A loud noise when your steering is at full lock could be related to a few different things. The power steering belt might be one factor, but let’s explore the possibilities:

Possible Causes

1. Power Steering Belt:

   • Why: A worn or loose belt can slip, causing noise.
   • What to Do: Inspect the belt for wear, cracks, or glazing. If it’s in bad shape, replace it. Also, make sure it’s tensioned properly to prevent slipping.

2. Power Steering Fluid:

   • Why: Low fluid levels can make the pump struggle, leading to noise.
   • What to Do: Check the power steering fluid level and top it off if necessary. Be sure to use the correct type of fluid for your system.

3. Power Steering Pump:

   • Why: A failing pump can produce noise, especially under stress.
   • What to Do: Listen for noise from the pump itself. If it’s worn, you might need to replace or rebuild it.

4. Steering Components:

   • Why: Binding or worn components like tie rods or ball joints can make noise.
   • What to Do: Inspect these parts for wear and replace as needed.

5. Full Lock Over-Pressure:

   • Why: Holding the steering wheel at full lock can strain the pump, causing noise.
   • What to Do: Avoid holding the wheel at full lock for extended periods. It’s normal for some noise to occur, but it should be brief.

Conclusion

Start by checking the belt and fluid, as they’re the easiest and cheapest fixes. If the problem continues, look into the pump and steering components. Remember, keeping your power steering system in good shape not only reduces noise but keeps your drive smooth and comfortable.

Feel free to hit me up with more questions if you need help with the process!

Replacing the power steering belt on your 1985 F250 with a 351W is a pretty straightforward job. Let’s break it down into what you’ll need and the steps to get it done.

Belt Size

For a 1985 Ford F250 with the 351 Windsor engine, you’ll typically need a belt that’s around 53.5 inches in length, but this can vary slightly based on specific configurations or aftermarket setups. It’s always a good idea to double-check the belt routing sticker under the hood or consult a parts store database to confirm the exact size for your setup.

Tools and Materials

• New power steering belt
• Wrench set (usually 1/2" or 9/16" will do)
• Socket set and ratchet
• Pry bar or a long wrench (for tensioning)
• Safety gloves and goggles

Steps to Replace the Belt

1. Safety First: Ensure the engine is off and cool. Disconnect the battery to avoid any accidental starts.

2. Locate the Belt: Identify the power steering pump and the belt that drives it. The belt routing diagram under the hood can help here.

3. Loosen the Tensioner or Mount:

   • On the 351W, the power steering pump mounts are adjustable, allowing you to swing the pump to adjust tension.
   • Loosen the bolts holding the pump to release the tension. These are typically on the bracket and the bottom of the pump.

4. Remove the Old Belt:

   • Once the tension is relieved, slide the old belt off the pulleys. Take note of the routing for reinstallation.

5. Install the New Belt:

   • Route the new belt around the pulleys following the same pattern as the old one.
   • Use the pry bar or long wrench to apply pressure to the pump, swinging it to tension the belt.

6. Tighten the Bolts:

   • Once the belt has the right tension (about 1/2-inch deflection in the longest span), tighten the mounting bolts to secure the pump.

7. Check the Work:

   • Give the belt a quick check to ensure it’s seated correctly on all pulleys.
   • Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Check for any slippage or noise.

Pro Tips

• Belt Tension: Too tight can wear bearings; too loose can slip. Aim for that sweet spot with slight deflection.
• Periodic Checks: Once installed, keep an eye (and ear) on the new belt for the first few drives.

This job should be manageable within an hour or two, even for a novice. If you run into any snags or hear any unusual noises afterward, feel free to ask for more guidance. Happy wrenching!

For your 1985 F250 with a 351 Windsor, choosing the right oil and air filters is crucial to keep your engine running smoothly. Here’s what you need:

Oil Filter

For the 351W engine, the oil filter commonly used is the Motorcraft FL-1A. This is a widely used filter that fits many older Ford V8 engines, and it’s known for its reliability and efficiency.

Air Filter

The air filter for your truck can vary slightly depending on the setup, but the Motorcraft FA-1045 is a common fit for the 351W in the Bullnose era.

Tips for Replacement

Oil Filter

• Tools Needed: Oil filter wrench, drain pan, and new oil (around 5 quarts of 10W-30 is typically recommended for the 351W).
• Replacement Steps:
  1. Drain the old oil.
  2. Use the oil filter wrench to remove the old filter.
  3. Lubricate the rubber gasket on the new filter with fresh oil.
  4. Install the new filter and tighten it by hand — no need to overdo it.

Air Filter

• Tools Needed: Usually, no tools are required unless there’s a stubborn clip or bolt.
• Replacement Steps:
  1. Open the air filter housing — usually held together by clips or screws.
  2. Remove the old filter and clean out any debris in the housing.
  3. Insert the new filter, ensuring it seats properly.
  4. Re-secure the housing.

These maintenance tasks are straightforward and can noticeably improve your truck’s performance and longevity. If you have any more questions or run into any issues, feel free to reach out. Happy wrenching!

When it comes to spark plugs and plug wires for your 1985 F250 with a 351 Windsor, sticking with known, reliable brands helps ensure consistent performance and longevity. Here’s what I recommend:

Spark Plugs

Motorcraft is the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) for Ford, and their spark plugs are specifically designed to work well with Ford engines. For your 351W, the Motorcraft ASF-42C or AWSF-42C are commonly recommended options.

• Why: They are designed to handle the specific ignition requirements of Ford engines, providing reliable performance and good longevity.
• Gap: Make sure to gap them correctly. The typical gap for a 351W is around 0.044 inches, but always double-check your truck’s specific requirements.

Spark Plug Wires

Motorcraft is again a solid choice here, given their compatibility and quality. However, if you’re looking for performance upgrades, MSD or Taylor spark plug wires are also popular among enthusiasts.

• Why: Motorcraft wires ensure compatibility with minimal fuss, while MSD and Taylor offer low-resistance construction which can improve ignition performance slightly, especially in tuned engines.
• Features: Look for good insulation to resist heat and prevent interference with electronic components.

Installation Tips

• Replace Together: When swapping plugs, it’s a good idea to replace the wires simultaneously. It ensures the entire ignition system is fresh.
• Dielectric Grease: Use a bit of dielectric grease on the inside of the plug boots to make installation easier and prevent moisture ingress.
• Torque: Don’t overtighten spark plugs. Use a torque wrench if you have one — around 15-20 ft-lbs is typical for most plugs.

These upgrades should help your Bullnose start more reliably and run more efficiently. If you have further questions or need installation guidance, feel free to ask!

Switching to a FiTech fuel injection system can impact your ignition setup, but it often doesn’t require a drastic change in spark plugs or gap unless you’re pushing the engine with performance upgrades. Here’s what to consider:

Spark Plug Selection

• Stick with Quality: You can generally continue using those Motorcraft ASF-42C plugs. They’re reliable and proven to work well with Ford engines.
• Consider Heat Range: If you’ve made performance modifications that increase combustion heat (like higher compression or boost), you might need a colder plug. This would be something like an ASF-32C for a slightly colder option. However, for most stock or mild setups, the regular heat range should be fine.

Spark Plug Gap

• Injection vs. Carburetion: Fuel injection often allows for a slightly larger gap due to more efficient fuel atomization. However, the stock gap of 0.044 inches is usually adequate.
• Adjust for Performance: If you’re tweaking for a bit more performance or experiencing misfires, you might try increasing the gap slightly — but only by about 0.005 inches at a time. Just be cautious, as too large of a gap can stress the ignition system.

Additional Tips

• Ignition System: Make sure your coil and ignition components can handle any increased demands if you increase the gap.
• Monitor Performance: Pay attention to how the engine runs after making changes. Misfires or rough idle could indicate the gap is too wide.

Your FiTech system should provide a noticeable improvement in driveability and efficiency. Just remember, small adjustments can make a big difference, so keep an eye on how things run and adjust slowly. If you hit any snags or need more advice, feel free to ask!

For a 1985 Ford F250, you’ll need windshield wiper blades that are typically 18 inches in length. This size is common for the Bullnose era trucks and should give you the coverage you need for clear visibility.

Tips for Replacement

• Quality Matters: Invest in good quality blades, like those from Bosch, Rain-X, or Anco. They tend to last longer and perform better in various weather conditions.
• Check Compatibility: While most 18-inch blades will fit, always double-check that they have the correct connector for your truck’s wiper arms.
• Replacement Steps:
  1. Lift the wiper arm away from the windshield.
  2. Locate the release tab or button on the wiper arm joint.
  3. Press or pull the tab to release the old blade.
  4. Attach the new blade, ensuring it clicks securely into place.

Replacing your wiper blades every 6-12 months or as needed will keep your view clear and safe, especially in inclement weather. If you need any more guidance, feel free to ask!

Ah, that steering wheel play can be a little unnerving, can’t it? But don’t worry, it’s something we can address! Here are some common causes and steps to help you tighten things up and get your Bronco steering feeling nice and responsive.

1. Check the Steering Gear

The play in the steering wheel is often due to a worn steering gear. Here’s how to check it:

• Locate the Steering Gear: It’s mounted on the frame and connects to the steering column.
• Inspect for Play: Have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you watch the steering gear. If the sector shaft moves without the pitman arm moving, it might need adjustment or replacement.

2. Adjust the Steering Gear

If the steering gear is adjustable, you can reduce play:

• Find the Adjustment Screw: Look for a screw on the top of the steering box. It usually has a lock nut.
• Tweak it Carefully: Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw slightly clockwise. Don’t overdo it; too tight can lead to stiff steering. Tighten the lock nut back once adjusted.

3. Inspect the Steering Linkage

Sometimes, the issue lies in the linkage.

• Check the Tie Rods and Ball Joints: Look for any play or wear in the tie rods and ball joints. If these are worn out, they may need to be replaced.
• Pitman Arm and Idler Arm: Ensure these components are secure and not worn out. If they’re loose, that could be contributing to the play.

4. Alignment

If everything seems tight but you still feel play, it might be worth checking your alignment. An improper alignment can cause steering issues.

5. Steering Column Components

Lastly, the steering column itself could be the culprit. Inspect the coupler at the base of the steering column for wear. Sometimes, tightening the bolts can help reduce play.

Wrap-Up

Once you’ve tackled these areas, take it for a test drive to see how it feels. If it’s still not right, it may be time to consult a professional or dive deeper into the steering system.

And remember, checking out videos on Bullnose Garage or discussions on forums can provide some visual guidance and extra tips from fellow enthusiasts. Got any other questions or concerns about your Bronco? I’m here to help!

Absolutely, over-tightening those axle retainer studs can indeed lead to damage to the wheel bearings! Here’s how that happens:

1. Excess Pressure: When you over-tighten the studs, it can exert excessive pressure on the wheel hub and bearing assembly. This added pressure can cause the bearings to wear out faster than normal, leading to premature failure.

2. Heat Generation: The extra force can create additional friction and heat. Bearings thrive on lubrication, and excessive heat can break down the grease, leading to poor lubrication and eventually bearing failure.

3. Misalignment: Just like with the brake drum, over-tightening can lead to misalignment. If the hub isn’t properly aligned, it can cause uneven loading on the wheel bearings, further accelerating wear and tear.

4. Play in the Assembly: In some cases, it can even lead to play in the wheel assembly, which can affect how your truck handles and rides. You definitely want to avoid any wobbly sensations while cruising!

So, keeping those torque specs in check is crucial for the longevity of your wheel bearings. If you’re diving into projects like these, you might find some helpful insights on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. If you need anything else or have more questions, just let me know!

Oh no, that sounds like a tough situation! When a wheel bearing has crushed and differential oil has seeped onto your brakes, it’s important to address it promptly. Here’s a step-by-step guide to get you rolling again safely:

1. Assess the Damage:

• Visual Inspection: Check the brake components for any oil contamination. If the brake pads or shoes are soaked in differential oil, they will need to be replaced.
• Wheel Bearing Housing: Inspect the bearing housing for damage. If it’s damaged, you may need to replace the entire housing or the affected components.

2. Remove the Wheel and Brake Components:

• Safely lift the truck using jack stands and remove the wheel.
• Take off the brake drum or rotor, depending on your setup. Make sure to keep track of all hardware.

3. Replace the Wheel Bearing:

• Remove the Crushed Bearing: This can sometimes require a bearing puller or a press. Be gentle not to damage the housing further.
• Clean the Housing: Make sure to clean out any debris or oil. A clean surface is essential for the new bearing.

4. Install a New Bearing:

• Get a quality replacement bearing and install it according to the specifications. Don’t forget to properly torque any fasteners to prevent future issues!

5. Address the Brake Components:

• If your brake pads or shoes are contaminated, replace them. Clean any other affected components thoroughly, including the caliper or brake backing plate.
• Check Brake Fluid: Ensure the differential fluid is not leaking into the brake lines; if it is, you’ll need to inspect and possibly replace the brake lines.

6. Reassemble Everything:

• Ensure all components are clean and properly installed. Torque everything to the manufacturer’s specifications.

7. Test Everything:

• Once reassembled, make sure to test drive the truck in a safe area to ensure everything is functioning properly. Listen for any unusual noises and feel for any vibrations.

8. Check for Leaks:

• After driving, check to see if there’s any oil leaking from the differential or around the bearing area.

This is definitely a bit of work, but taking your time to do it right will help ensure your Bullnose runs smoothly and safely! If you want more detailed guidance on any specific step, the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel might have some great videos that could help. If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

Great question! There are several places you can look for replacement radiators for your ’86 F-250 with the 6.9L diesel engine. Here are some options to consider:

1. Local Auto Parts Stores

• O’Reilly Auto Parts, AutoZone, or NAPA Auto Parts: They typically carry a selection of radiators, and they can often order one if they don’t have it in stock. Just make sure to provide them with your truck’s details.

2. Online Retailers

• RockAuto: This site often has a wide array of parts, including radiators for your Bullnose. You can filter by your specific vehicle to find the right fit.
• Amazon: You can find various aftermarket radiators here, but make sure to check reviews and compatibility.
• Summit Racing: They have a good selection of performance and stock parts for classic trucks.

3. Specialty Suppliers

• LMC Truck or Classic Industries: These companies specialize in parts for classic trucks and often carry quality replacement radiators.
• Radiator Specialty Companies: Some businesses focus specifically on radiators, so a quick search might yield some local or online options.

4. Local Salvage Yards

• Sometimes you can find a good used radiator at a salvage yard. Just make sure it’s in good condition before purchasing.

5. Community Recommendations

• Check out forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or the F150 Forum. The community often shares leads on where to find parts or may have recommendations based on their experiences.

No matter where you decide to purchase, just ensure that the radiator is specifically compatible with your 6.9L engine to avoid any issues. If you need help with anything else, feel free to ask! Happy hunting!

Sure thing! Pricing for performance parts can vary greatly based on brand, quality, and where you purchase them. Here’s a rough estimate for each component you’re considering for your 300 inline-six build:

1. Intake Manifold:

• Cost: $200 – $400
• Look for options from brands like Edelbrock or Offenhauser for quality performance.

2. Camshaft:

• Cost: $150 – $500
• Prices can vary significantly depending on the lift and duration of the cam. Check out options from Comp Cams or Crane Cams.

3. Headers:

• Cost: $200 – $400
• Headers from companies like Doug’s or Patriot Exhaust are popular choices.

4. Dual Straight Exhaust:

• Cost: $300 – $800
• This includes the cost of piping, mufflers, and installation if you’re not doing it yourself. You can find kits that fit the Bullnose style.

5. 650 CFM Carburetor:

• Cost: $300 – $600
• Holley and Edelbrock are great options. Just remember to factor in the cost of a mounting adapter if needed.

6. Upgraded Fuel Pump:

• Cost: $50 – $150
• Look for an electric fuel pump with enough flow for your new setup.

Estimated Total:

Adding it all up, you’re looking at approximately $1,500 to $2,900 depending on your choices and whether you do the work yourself or hire a mechanic.

Keep in mind that these are rough estimates, and prices can fluctuate based on sales, location, and specific part brands. Always do a bit of shopping around, and consider checking out forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or other dedicated communities for recommendations on parts and where to buy them.

Happy building, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have more questions or need further guidance!

Estimating the horsepower gain from your proposed modifications for the 300 inline-six can be a bit of a guessing game, as it depends on several factors including the specific parts used, tuning, and overall engine condition. However, I can give you some ballpark figures based on similar upgrades.

Potential Horsepower Gains:

1. Intake Manifold:

   • Estimated Gain: 10-20 hp
   • A better intake improves airflow and efficiency.

2. Camshaft:

   • Estimated Gain: 20-40 hp
   • A performance cam can significantly increase power, especially if it’s designed for higher RPMs.

3. Headers:

   • Estimated Gain: 10-20 hp
   • Headers reduce back pressure and improve exhaust flow, which helps the engine breathe better.

4. Dual Straight Exhaust:

   • Estimated Gain: 10-20 hp
   • A less restrictive exhaust system allows for better flow and can enhance performance.

5. 650 CFM Carburetor:

   • Estimated Gain: 10-30 hp
   • A larger carburetor can improve the air/fuel mixture, leading to more power.

6. Upgraded Fuel Pump:

   • Estimated Gain: Minimal to 5 hp
   • While a good fuel pump isn’t a power producer itself, it ensures your engine gets the fuel it needs to perform at its best, especially after modifications.

Total Estimated Gain:

When you add it all up, you’re looking at a potential increase of 70 to 135 horsepower.

Of course, these figures can vary widely, and achieving those gains relies heavily on proper tuning and ensuring all modifications work well together. If you can get your engine on a dynamometer after the upgrades, you’ll get a precise measurement of the horsepower increase.

Remember that while it’s exciting to aim for high horsepower figures, the torque and drivability of the engine are just as important, especially for street use. And as always, consult with experienced builders or tuners to help you maximize your setup!

Let me know if you have more questions or need help with something else!

Getting a good 0-60 time for your modified 300 inline-six Bullnose truck will depend on several factors, including the weight of the truck, tire grip, gearing, and the specific modifications you make. However, I can provide a rough estimate based on typical performance gains from those modifications.

Stock Performance:

• A stock 300 inline-six typically has 0-60 times in the range of 10 to 12 seconds.

Estimated Performance After Modifications:

With the upgrades you’re considering (intake manifold, camshaft, headers, dual exhaust, 650 CFM carburetor, and upgraded fuel pump), you could potentially lower that time significantly.

• Expected 0-60 Time: Approximately 8 to 10 seconds.

This is a general estimate, and as you might expect, the actual performance can vary based on tuning and other factors. If you manage to push your horsepower closer to that 350 hp mark, you might even see lower times, especially if everything is dialed in correctly.

Important Factors to Consider:

1. Weight of the Truck: The weight of your Bullnose will play a significant role in acceleration. A lighter truck will naturally have better acceleration.

2. Tires and Traction: Upgrading to performance tires can significantly improve grip, which is crucial for launching effectively.

3. Gearing: Rear-end gearing can also have a big impact on how quickly you can accelerate. A lower gear ratio can help improve your 0-60 time.

4. Tuning: Proper tuning after all modifications is key to achieving the best performance. A good dyno tune can help you maximize your setup.

5. Driver Skill: Don’t forget that driver skill plays a big role in achieving the best 0-60 times. Practice launching and shifting can make a noticeable difference.

If you’re excited to see how your Bullnose performs, consider timing it on a stretch of road or at a track after modifications. It’s a great way to enjoy the fruits of your labor! Let me know if you have any more questions or need further guidance!

Alright, let’s dive into the costs for a turbocharged setup along with the performance upgrades you’re considering for your 300 inline-six. Adding a turbocharger can dramatically increase your horsepower potential, but it also comes with its own set of costs and considerations.

Estimated Costs:

1. Intake Manifold:

   • Cost: $200 – $400

2. Camshaft:

   • Cost: $150 – $500

3. Headers:

   • Cost: $200 – $400

4. Dual Straight Exhaust:

   • Cost: $300 – $800

5. 650 CFM Carburetor:

   • Cost: $300 – $600

6. Upgraded Fuel Pump:

   • Cost: $50 – $150

7. Turbocharger Kit:

   • Cost: $1,500 – $3,000
   • This can vary widely based on the brand and whether you’re getting a complete kit with all necessary components (e.g., intercooler, piping, wastegate, etc.). Look for kits specifically designed for the 300 inline-six to ensure compatibility.

8. Additional Components:

   • Intercooler: $300 – $600
   • Boost Controller: $50 – $200
   • Tuning: $200 – $500 (for a proper dyno tune)
   • Miscellaneous (piping, fittings, gaskets, etc.): $200 – $500

Estimated Total:

When you add it all up, you’re looking at approximately $3,200 to $7,600 for the entire setup. This is a broad range, as the final cost will depend on the specific components you choose and whether you do the work yourself or hire professionals.

Performance Expectations:

With all these modifications, including turbocharging, you could see horsepower figures exceeding 400 hp depending on boost levels and tuning. That would have a substantial impact on your 0-60 times as well, potentially getting you into the sub-6 second range if everything is optimized correctly!

Important Considerations:

• Engine Internals: Before going for high boost, consider that the stock internals of the 300 may not handle excessive pressure reliably. You might want to upgrade pistons and rods for added strength.
• Fuel Quality: Turbocharging typically requires higher octane fuel to avoid knock, so be prepared to use premium gas.
• Tuning: Proper tuning is crucial for reliability and performance, so don’t skimp on this step.

Always consult with experienced builders or tuners who have worked with turbocharged setups on these engines to ensure everything fits and works well together. If you have more questions or need further guidance, just let me know! Happy building!

Sure thing! Let’s break down the estimated costs for each component you’re considering for your 300 inline-six build with a 750 CFM carburetor. Here’s how much each part might set you back:

Estimated Costs:

1. Intake Manifold:

   • Cost: $200 – $400
   • Look for performance options from brands like Edelbrock or Offenhauser.

2. Camshaft:

   • Cost: $150 – $500
   • Performance camshafts from Comp Cams or similar brands are a good choice.

3. Headers:

   • Cost: $200 – $400
   • Companies like Doug’s or Patriot Exhaust offer good options.

4. Dual Straight Exhaust:

   • Cost: $300 – $800
   • This includes piping, mufflers, and potentially installation costs if you’re not doing it yourself.

5. 750 CFM Carburetor:

   • Cost: $350 – $700
   • Holley and Edelbrock have great carb options that would fit your needs.

6. Upgraded Fuel Pump:

   • Cost: $50 – $150
   • An electric fuel pump rated for your horsepower goals would ensure proper fuel delivery.

Estimated Total:

Adding these together, you’re looking at a total cost of approximately $1,300 to $2,900.

Performance Expectations:

With these modifications, you could see a significant horsepower increase. While exact figures can vary, you might expect to gain around 70 to 135 horsepower, depending on how well everything is tuned and matched.

Final Thoughts:

As always, ensure that you have a proper tune after installation to maximize performance and reliability. This is where you can really dial in the power and efficiency of your engine.

If you have any more questions or need help with anything else, feel free to ask! Happy wrenching!