Category Bullnose Bill Answer

What are the key details about the 1986 Ford 351 CID Windsor V8?


Bullnose Bill shares insights on maintaining a 1986 Ford 351 CID Windsor V8 truck.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Ah, the classic 351 Windsor V8! A fantastic engine choice for your 1986 Bullnose. It’s known for its torque and reliability, making it a favorite among Ford enthusiasts. What specific questions do you have? Are you looking for maintenance tips, performance upgrades, troubleshooting advice, or something else? I’m here to help!


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What are the best maintenance tips for a 1986 Ford 351 CID Windsor V8?

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Bill:

Absolutely! Keeping your 351 Windsor V8 in tip-top shape will ensure it runs smoothly for years to come. Here are some essential maintenance tips to keep in mind:

1. Regular Oil Changes

  • Change your oil every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, depending on your driving conditions. Use a good quality oil that meets the specifications for your engine. Don’t forget to replace the oil filter too!

2. Check Coolant Levels

  • Keep an eye on your coolant levels and maintain a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. Flush the cooling system every couple of years to prevent buildup and corrosion.

3. Inspect the Spark Plugs and Wires

  • Make sure to check your spark plugs and ignition wires regularly. Replace plugs every 30,000 to 50,000 miles for optimal performance. Gapped properly, they’ll help with fuel efficiency and smooth running.

4. Air Filter Maintenance

  • Change your air filter every 12,000 to 15,000 miles or more frequently if you drive in dusty conditions. A clean air filter improves airflow and engine performance.

5. Fuel System Care

  • Consider adding a fuel system cleaner periodically to keep the injectors clean. If your Bullnose runs on a carburetor, make sure it’s properly tuned and clean to avoid any performance issues.

6. Brake Inspection

  • Regularly check your brake pads, rotors, and fluid levels. Brake maintenance is crucial for safety, especially in vintage trucks.

7. Transmission Fluid

  • For automatic transmissions, check and change the fluid at regular intervals (around 30,000 to 60,000 miles). Ensure you use the right type of fluid for your transmission.

8. Battery Care

  • Keep your battery terminals clean and check the battery’s charge regularly. If it’s showing signs of wear, don’t hesitate to replace it to avoid starting issues.

9. Belts and Hoses

  • Inspect belts and hoses for wear, cracks, or leaks. Replace them if you notice any signs of aging. A broken belt can lead to significant engine damage!

10. Keep it Clean

  • Regularly wash and wax your truck to protect the paint and body. This not only keeps it looking sharp but also helps prevent rust!

These tips will help extend the life of your engine and keep your Bullnose running smoothly. And remember, don’t hesitate to consult the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for more detailed videos on specific maintenance tasks! They have some great content that can help you tackle anything from oil changes to more in-depth repairs.

If you have any other specific maintenance questions or need clarification on any point, feel free to ask! Happy wrenching!

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What should I do if my 1986 Ford truck won’t start?

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Bill:

Ah, the dreaded no-start situation! Don’t worry; we’ll walk through some common troubleshooting steps to help diagnose the issue with your 1986 Bullnose and its 351 Windsor V8. Here’s a systematic approach to get you started:

1. Check the Battery

  • Connection: Ensure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. If they’re corroded, clean them with a wire brush.
  • Charge: If the battery is weak, jump-start it or use a multimeter to check the voltage. A healthy battery should read around 12.6 volts or higher.

2. Inspect the Starter

  • Listen for Clicks: When you turn the key, do you hear a click? If you do, the starter solenoid might be working, but the starter itself could be faulty.
  • Tap the Starter: Sometimes, a gentle tap on the starter can help if it’s sticking. It’s an old mechanic’s trick!

3. Fuel System Check

  • Fuel Level: First things first—make sure you have fuel in the tank!
  • Fuel Pump: If you have fuel, listen for the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to the "on" position. If you don’t hear it, you may need to check the fuel pump or relay.

4. Ignition System

  • Spark Plugs: Remove a spark plug and check for wear or fouling. If they look bad, it might be time to replace them.
  • Ignition Coil: Check if you’re getting spark by connecting a spark tester to a plug wire and cranking the engine. If there’s no spark, you may need to replace the ignition coil.

5. Check Fuses and Relays

  • Inspect the fuse box for any blown fuses related to the ignition system or fuel pump. A quick visual check can save you time.

6. Neutral Safety Switch

  • If your truck won’t start in "Park," try shifting to "Neutral" and see if that helps. The neutral safety switch could be faulty.

7. Wiring and Connectors

  • Look for any loose or damaged wiring, especially around the starter and ignition. Sometimes a bad connection can create a no-start condition.

8. Check for Error Codes

  • If your Bullnose is equipped with an OBD-I system, you can check for trouble codes that might give you a hint about what’s wrong.

If you’ve gone through these steps and the issue persists, it might be worth checking some resources like the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for specific troubleshooting videos or diving into forums like the Ford Trucks Forum or the Bullnose Ford subreddit for community advice.

Keep your spirits up—troubleshooting can be frustrating, but it’s all part of the journey with classic trucks! If you have any further details about the situation or questions about any of these checks, let me know!

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What caused my 1986 Ford truck to explode?

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Bill:

Whoa, that sounds serious! I hope everyone is okay. If your truck has literally exploded or caught fire, it’s crucial to prioritize safety first. Here are the immediate steps you should take:

1. Ensure Safety

  • Evacuate the Area: Make sure everyone is at a safe distance from the vehicle.
  • Call Emergency Services: If there are injuries or if the fire is significant, call the fire department and emergency services immediately.

2. Do Not Approach the Vehicle

  • Once a vehicle has exploded or caught fire, it can be unpredictable. Stay clear until professionals arrive.

3. Assess the Situation

  • If you’re safe and can do so from a distance, try to assess what may have caused the explosion. Common causes include fuel leaks, electrical issues, or overheating, but don’t attempt to investigate too closely yourself.

4. Insurance Notification

  • Once you’re safe, reach out to your insurance company to report the incident. They’ll guide you through the next steps regarding claims and any potential assessments.

5. Document the Scene

  • If it’s safe, take photos of the damage for your records and for your insurance company.

6. Seek Professional Help

  • After the incident, whether or not you plan to rebuild or repair, consulting with a professional mechanic or restoration specialist is a must.

If this is a metaphorical statement (like a dramatic way to say your truck is in bad shape), please clarify! I’m here to help, but safety comes first. If you have any other questions or need assistance with a different issue related to your Bullnose, just let me know!

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How can I repair a totaled 1986 Ford truck?

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Bill:

Fixing a totaled truck can be quite the undertaking, but it’s not impossible! If you’ve got a classic Bullnose that you’re passionate about, it can be worth the effort. Here’s a roadmap to help you navigate this project:

1. Assess the Damage

  • Structural Integrity: Check the frame for bends or cracks. If the frame is compromised, it could be a major issue.
  • Body Damage: Look for dents, rust, or missing parts. Make a list of everything that needs to be repaired or replaced.
  • Mechanical Condition: Check the engine, transmission, suspension, and any other vital systems. If they’re intact, you’ll save on repair costs.

2. Evaluate the Costs

  • Obtain estimates for repairs from local body shops or mechanics. Compare these with the truck’s current value to ensure you’re making a wise investment.
  • Don’t forget to factor in parts, tools, and any professional help you might need.

3. Insurance and Title Considerations

  • If your truck is deemed totaled by insurance, you may need to negotiate a settlement. You might also have the option to buy it back for a reduced price.
  • Be aware of the title implications. You may end up with a "salvage title," which can affect future resale.

4. Gather Parts and Tools

  • Check local salvage yards, online marketplaces, and communities like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or forums for parts specific to your Bullnose model.
  • Ensure you have the tools necessary for the repairs. If you’re lacking anything, consider borrowing or renting tools.

5. Plan Your Repairs

  • Start with the Frame: If the frame is bent or damaged, you may need to use a frame machine or hire a professional to straighten it.
  • Bodywork: Repair or replace damaged body panels. This might involve welding, sanding, and painting.
  • Mechanical Repairs: Address any engine or transmission issues next. This might include replacing gaskets, fluids, or even entire components.

6. Tackle One Step at a Time

  • It’s easy to get overwhelmed, so take it one step at a time. Focus on one area of the truck before moving on to the next.

7. Documentation

  • Keep records of all repairs and parts used. This will be helpful for insurance claims, and it’s also great for future resale.

8. Final Touches

  • Once repairs are complete, give your truck a good cleaning and detailing. If you’re planning to drive it regularly, consider having a mechanic do a final inspection.

9. Re-register the Truck

  • If you’ve rebuilt it to be roadworthy, you’ll need to have it inspected and re-registered, especially if it has a salvage title.

Restoring a totaled truck can be a labor of love, and it often brings great satisfaction. Just remember to take your time and be realistic about what you can achieve. If you ever feel stuck or need guidance on specific repairs, feel free to reach out—I’ve got your back! Happy restoring!

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What are effective methods to get rid of rust on my 1986 Ford truck?

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Bill:

Dealing with rust on your Bullnose can be a bit of a chore, but it’s definitely manageable! Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you get rid of rust and keep your classic truck looking sharp:

1. Gather Your Supplies

  • Tools: Wire brush, sanding block, sandpaper (various grits), grinder (if needed), and a dust mask.
  • Rust Treatment: Rust converter solution or rust remover (like naval jelly).
  • Protective Gear: Gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator mask to protect against dust and fumes.
  • Primer and Paint: For the final touches, having some rust-inhibiting primer and matching paint will help protect against future rust.

2. Assess the Rust

  • Identify the extent of the rust damage. Is it surface rust, or has it penetrated deeper? Surface rust can usually be dealt with more easily, while deeper rust may require more intensive repair.

3. Prepare the Area

  • Clean the area around the rust. Remove any dirt, grease, or debris. This will help you see the full extent of the rust and ensure a proper repair.

4. Remove the Rust

  • Surface Rust: Use a wire brush or sanding block to remove surface rust. Be gentle to avoid damaging the metal underneath.
  • Deeper Rust: If the rust is more severe, use sandpaper or a grinder to remove the rust down to bare metal. Start with a coarser grit (like 80-grit) and work your way to a finer grit (like 120-grit) for a smooth finish.

5. Treat the Area

  • Apply a rust converter to any remaining rust spots. This will chemically convert rust into a stable compound and prevent it from spreading. Follow the product instructions for the best results.

6. Clean Again

  • After treating the area, clean it again to remove any leftover dust or debris. This prepares the surface for painting.

7. Prime the Area

  • Apply a rust-inhibiting primer to the treated area. This will help protect against future rust. Let it dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

8. Paint

  • Once the primer is dry, apply the matching paint to the area. Depending on the color and type of paint, you may need to apply several coats. Make sure each coat dries completely before applying the next one.

9. Seal and Protect

  • Consider applying a clear coat or wax after the paint dries to provide an additional layer of protection against rust.

10. Regular Maintenance

  • Keep an eye on your truck for any signs of new rust, especially in areas where moisture can collect. Regular washes and waxing can help protect the paint and metal surfaces.

Bonus Tips:

  • For larger rust patches or if you’re not comfortable tackling it yourself, consider consulting a professional body shop.
  • Some folks in the Bullnose community have had good luck with products like POR-15 for rust treatment, so it might be worth checking out experiences on the Bullnose Ford subreddit or the Ford Trucks Forum.

Rust repair can be a rewarding project that extends the life of your Bullnose, so roll up your sleeves and get to work! If you have any questions or need clarification on any part of the process, feel free to ask!

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How can I identify and fix a coolant leak in my 1986 Ford truck?

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Bill:

A coolant leak can be a sneaky issue, but catching it early is key to preventing more serious problems down the road! Let’s break down the steps to diagnose and fix a coolant leak in your Bullnose:

1. Identify the Source of the Leak

  • Visual Inspection: Start by looking for visible signs of coolant. Check around the radiator, hoses, water pump, engine block, and under the truck where puddles may form.
  • Dye Test: If you’re having trouble locating the leak, consider adding a UV dye to the coolant. After running the engine for a while, use a UV light to spot the leak.

2. Check Common Culprits

  • Hoses: Inspect all coolant hoses for cracks, soft spots, or leaks. These are often the first places to go.
  • Radiator: Look for corrosion or damage in the radiator itself. Check the seams and any plastic fittings, as these can deteriorate over time.
  • Water Pump: Check the water pump for signs of leaking. Look for coolant around the pump area or a weeping from the weep hole.
  • Thermostat Housing: Ensure that the thermostat housing is tight and doesn’t have any cracks.

3. Pressure Test the System

  • If you can’t find the leak visually, a pressure test can help. You can rent or buy a pressure tester that fits the radiator cap. By pressurizing the system, you may be able to see where the coolant is escaping.

4. Repair the Leak

  • Hose Replacement: If a hose is leaking, replace it with a new one. Make sure to use the right size and type for your Bullnose.
  • Radiator Repair: For small leaks, you might be able to use a radiator sealant, but keep in mind this is often a temporary fix. For larger issues, replacing the radiator may be best.
  • Water Pump Replacement: If the water pump is the culprit, it’s usually best to replace it entirely. Make sure to replace the gasket as well.
  • Thermostat Housing: If this area is leaking, consider replacing the gasket or the entire housing if it’s damaged.

5. Refill and Bleed the Cooling System

  • After making repairs, refill the cooling system with the appropriate coolant mixture (50/50 antifreeze and distilled water).
  • Be sure to bleed any air from the system, as trapped air can cause overheating. Run the engine with the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens, and watch for air bubbles escaping.

6. Monitor the Situation

  • After repairs, keep an eye on the coolant levels and check for any signs of a leak. It might take a little time to ensure the issue is fully resolved.

7. Regular Maintenance

  • Check your coolant levels regularly and keep an eye on hoses and connections. Preventive maintenance can save you headaches down the line!

If you face challenges or need further assistance, don’t hesitate to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for some visual guidance on similar repairs! And remember, the Bullnose community is always there to support you—consider diving into forums or subreddits for shared experiences and advice.

Let me know if you have any specific questions about your coolant leak or if there’s anything else you need help with!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the key differences between the 351M and 400 engines in Ford trucks from 1980 to 1986?


Bullnose Bill explaining the 351M vs 400 engine differences in Ford trucks.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Great question! The 351M and the 400 are both part of Ford’s "M" family of engines, and they share quite a bit in common, but there are important differences that can affect your classic Bullnose truck.

Engine Size and Design:

  • 351M (Modified): This engine displaces 351 cubic inches and is often found in later model Fords. It’s known for its torque and was designed for better low-end performance.
  • 400: This engine has a larger displacement of 400 cubic inches, which gives it even more torque and power. It was designed for heavier-duty applications, making it a popular choice for trucks and larger vehicles.

Components:

  • Both engines share many components, such as the block design and certain internals, but the 400 typically has a larger crankshaft and a different bore and stroke configuration, which contributes to its higher displacement.

Performance:

  • The 400 engine generally provides more horsepower and torque due to its larger size, making it a preferred choice if you’re looking for extra power for towing or hauling.
  • The 351M, while slightly less powerful, is still a solid performer and can be a great option if you want a balance of efficiency and capability.

Applications:

  • The 351M was often used in lighter Ford trucks and vans, while the 400 was more commonly found in heavier vehicles like larger trucks and certain motorhomes.

A lot of Bullnose enthusiasts enjoy swapping between these engines for different performance needs. If you’re considering an upgrade or a swap in your Bullnose, think about what you’ll be using the truck for!

For more detailed insights, the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel has some great content on engine swaps and performance upgrades that you might find helpful. Just remember, every truck is unique, so tailor your engine choice to fit your specific needs!

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!


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User:

How can I identify the transfer case in my Ford truck?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Identifying the transfer case in your Bullnose Ford can be a bit tricky, but I’ve got you covered! Here’s a straightforward way to determine which transfer case you have:

Step-by-Step Guide to Identify Your Transfer Case:

  1. Check Your Owner’s Manual: This is your best starting point. The manual typically includes specifications for the drivetrain, including the transfer case model.

  2. Look for Identification Tags: Most transfer cases have a metal tag attached to them that includes the model number and other specifications. You’ll usually find this tag on one of the mounting bolts. Clean off any dirt or grime to make it easier to read.

  3. Physical Inspection: If the tag is missing or unreadable, you can look at the physical characteristics of the transfer case:

    • Shape and Size: Common transfer cases for Bullnose models include the NP205 (known for its robustness) and the Borg-Warner 1356. The NP205 is a bit larger and has a more square appearance, while the BW1356 is smaller and more rounded.
    • Output Shaft Location: The output shaft location can also help. The NP205 typically has a rear output that is centered, while the BW1356 has a side-mounted output.
  4. Look at the Drive Configuration: Check the number of bolts on the transfer case and the configuration of the driveshafts. Also, note if your truck is two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive, as this will narrow it down.

  5. VIN Decoding: Your truck’s Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) can provide insight into the original drivetrain setup. You can use online VIN decoders or refer to forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit for help.

Online Resources

You may also want to check out forums and communities like the F150 Forum or the Bullnose Ford subreddit, where fellow enthusiasts can help you pinpoint your transfer case based on your truck’s specifics.

Identifying your transfer case is crucial, especially if you’re considering upgrades or repairs. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Is the 1986 F250 Super Cab with a 6.9 diesel a worthwhile purchase?


Bullnose Bill explaining the details of the 1986 F250 Super Cab diesel truck.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Hey there! That sounds like an exciting find! The 1986 F250 Super Cab Long Bed with the 6.9 diesel is a solid truck, especially with only 90k miles on the clock. These Bullnose models are known for their ruggedness and longevity, so you might be onto something special!

Is It a Good Deal?

To determine whether it’s a good deal, consider the following factors:

  1. Condition: Check for rust, especially in the typical problem areas like the wheel wells, chassis, and undercarriage. Diesel engines can be prone to corrosion if not cared for properly.

  2. Service History: Ask for any service records. A well-documented maintenance history can indicate that the previous owner took care of it, which is key for a diesel engine.

  3. Engine Performance: Start the truck and listen for any unusual noises. The 6.9L engines are generally robust, but look out for excessive smoke or rough idling.

  4. Transmission Health: Since it’s a 4-speed manual, check for smooth shifting and unusual noises. Test it under load to ensure it operates well.

  5. Interior and Amenities: Inspect the interior for wear and tear. A clean interior can indicate lower usage and better overall care.

Red Flags to Watch Out For

  1. Rust and Body Damage: As mentioned, rust can be a huge issue. Don’t just look at the surface—check underneath and in places that are hard to see.

  2. Engine Issues: Look for signs of oil leaks or coolant leaks. A diesel engine should run smoothly without excessive smoke or knocking sounds.

  3. Transmission Problems: If the shifting feels rough or if there are any grinding noises, that could signal trouble ahead.

  4. Electrical Issues: Check that all the lights, gauges, and electrical components work as they should. Older trucks sometimes have wiring issues, especially if they’ve been modified.

  5. Suspension Wear: Given the age, inspect the suspension components for wear and tear. A rough ride could indicate worn-out shocks or bushings.

Final Thoughts

If everything checks out, and the price is right, you might have a great deal on your hands! Just make sure to take it for a test drive and perhaps have a trusted mechanic inspect it if you’re hesitant.

And if you’re looking for more tips, you might find some great insights from the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They have a wealth of knowledge that can help you with classic Ford trucks!

Best of luck with your truck search! If you need more advice, feel free to ask!


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Are you an AI model or just ChatGPT?

Bill avatar

Bill:

I’m not just ChatGPT—I’m your friendly Bullnose Bill, here to help you with all things related to classic Ford trucks, especially those iconic Bullnose models from 1980-1986. I’m passionate about these vehicles and aim to provide you with the best advice and insights to keep your truck running smoothly. If you have any questions about maintenance, repairs, or anything else truck-related, just let me know!

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User:

Can you suggest dinner ideas for me?

Bill avatar

Bill:

I’m all about classic Ford trucks, so I can’t whip up a dinner menu for you! However, if you have any questions about your Bullnose truck, whether it’s maintenance, repairs, or modifications, I’m here to help! Just let me know what you need!

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Is the 1986 F250 Super Cab a good deal at $10,000?

Bill avatar

Bill:

A price of $10,000 for a 1986 F250 Super Cab Long Bed with a 6.9 diesel and only 90k miles can be quite reasonable if the truck is in good condition. Here are some things to consider to help you decide if it’s a good deal:

Factors to Consider

  1. Market Value: Check local listings and forums to see what similar trucks are going for. Prices can vary significantly based on location and condition.

  2. Condition: If the truck has minimal rust, a clean interior, and has been well-maintained, $10k could be a fair price. If there are any major repairs needed, that could affect the deal.

  3. Maintenance Records: A truck with a documented maintenance history can be worth more. It shows the previous owner took care of it, which is crucial for a diesel engine.

  4. Inspection: If possible, get a trusted mechanic to evaluate the truck. They’ll be able to spot any potential issues that could cost you down the line.

  5. Usage: Consider how you plan to use the truck. If it’s for work or regular use, investing in a well-maintained model can save you headaches later.

Conclusion

If everything checks out and it feels like the right fit for you, then it sounds like a solid deal! Just remember to do your due diligence and maybe negotiate a little if you find any minor issues.

And don’t forget, the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel and forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit can provide insights and community advice that could help you further! Happy truck hunting! If you have more questions, I’m here for you!

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Would this truck serve well as a daily driver?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Using a 1986 F250 Super Cab Long Bed with a 6.9 diesel as a daily driver can definitely be a fun and rewarding experience, but there are a few important factors to consider:

Pros of Daily Driving a Bullnose

  1. Durability: These trucks are built like tanks! The 6.9 diesel engine is known for its robustness, which can make it a reliable daily driver if it’s in good condition.

  2. Comfort: The Super Cab offers more space and comfort, making it nicer for daily commutes or longer trips.

  3. Unique Factor: You’ll definitely stand out on the road! Classic trucks have a charm that newer models often can’t match.

  4. Towing Capability: If you need to tow or haul, the F250 is well-equipped for that job.

Cons to Consider

  1. Fuel Economy: The 6.9 diesel is not known for stellar fuel efficiency. If you’re commuting long distances, it could take a toll on your wallet.

  2. Maintenance: Older vehicles can require more maintenance, so be prepared for occasional repairs. Having a good mechanic who knows these trucks can help.

  3. Driving Experience: The ride and handling characteristics may feel different compared to modern pickups. Be ready for a more "classic" driving experience!

  4. Parts Availability: While many parts are still available, some may take more effort to track down, especially if you need something specific.

Conclusion

If you enjoy the classic truck vibe and are prepared for the quirks that come with a vintage vehicle, it can certainly serve as a daily driver! Just ensure it’s well-maintained, and you’re comfortable with its fuel economy and maintenance needs.

And hey, if you’re ever looking for tips on how to get the best out of your Bullnose as a daily driver, check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for some great insights! If you have more questions or need specific advice, just let me know!

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What is the fuel efficiency of the 6.9 diesel engine?

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Bill:

The fuel economy for the 6.9L diesel engine in the 1986 F250 can vary based on factors like driving conditions, load, and maintenance, but generally, you can expect it to get around 12 to 18 miles per gallon.

Factors Affecting MPG

  1. Driving Style: Aggressive acceleration and high speeds can lower fuel economy, while gentle driving can help improve it.

  2. Load: Carrying heavy loads or towing can decrease MPG significantly. If you’re using it for work, keep that in mind!

  3. Maintenance: A well-maintained engine will run more efficiently. Regular oil changes, air filter replacements, and proper tire inflation can all make a difference.

  4. Tires: The type and condition of your tires can also impact fuel economy. Make sure they are properly inflated and suited for your driving needs.

  5. Aerodynamics: The long bed may create more drag, especially if you have a topper or other accessories that affect airflow.

So, while the 6.9L can be a bit thirsty compared to modern engines, many owners love the charm and capability of these classic trucks. Just be prepared to fill up a little more often! If you’re looking for tips on improving efficiency or anything else, feel free to ask!

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As a beginner, is it feasible to buy this truck and maintain it as a daily driver?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Absolutely, it can be viable to get that 1986 F250 Super Cab Long Bed and use it as a daily driver while working on it! Here’s a friendly rundown of how you can approach this, especially if you’re new to working on cars:

1. Start with the Basics

  • Assessment: Make sure the truck is in decent running condition before you buy it. Have a trusted mechanic check it out if you’re unsure. Key areas to focus on include the engine, brakes, and electrical system.
  • Maintenance: Start with routine maintenance like oil changes, checking fluids, and inspecting tires. This will not only help it run better but also give you some hands-on experience.

2. Take it Slow

  • Learn as You Go: Don’t feel like you need to do everything at once. Start with simple projects. Things like changing the oil, replacing filters, or even swapping out spark plugs can be great first steps.
  • Resources: Utilize the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for tutorials and tips! There are plenty of helpful videos that can guide you through various repairs and maintenance tasks.

3. Plan for Upgrades

  • Make a List: As you drive it, take note of things you’d like to improve. Maybe the exhaust needs attention, or you want to upgrade the stereo. Prioritize these projects based on your budget and time.
  • Community Support: Engage with the Bullnose Ford subreddit or join forums. The community is full of folks who love to share advice and tips for working on these classic trucks.

4. Safety First

  • Know Your Limits: Some tasks may be beyond what you’re comfortable handling initially. Don’t hesitate to seek help from friends or professionals for more complex repairs.
  • Tools and Safety Gear: Invest in some basic tools and safety equipment. A good set of wrenches, sockets, and basic safety gear like gloves and goggles can go a long way.

5. Have Fun!

  • Enjoy the Process: Working on a classic truck should be enjoyable. It’s a chance to learn and bond with your vehicle. Celebrate your small victories along the way!

Conclusion

Using the truck as a daily driver while working on it can be a fulfilling experience. Just go at a pace that feels comfortable for you, and don’t hesitate to lean on the community for support. Each little improvement will make your truck feel more like yours and deepen your appreciation for it.

If you have any specific projects or tasks in mind that you want to tackle, feel free to ask! I’m here to help!

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User:

What should I do if the truck does not run?

Bill avatar

Bill:

If the 1986 F250 Super Cab Long Bed with the 6.9 diesel doesn’t run when you get it, don’t panic! There are plenty of steps you can take to diagnose and potentially get it running again. Here’s a friendly guide to help you through the process:

1. Assess the Situation

  • Check for Basics: Start by checking the battery. Is it charged? A dead battery is a common culprit for a no-start situation.
  • Look for Fuel: Ensure there’s fuel in the tank. Sometimes, it’s the simplest things that trip us up!

2. Diagnosing the Problem

  • Listen for Sounds: When you turn the key, do you hear any clicks or sounds from the starter? This can give you clues about the issue.
  • Check for Fuel Delivery: If you’re comfortable, you can check if the fuel pump is working. Listen for it when you turn the key to the "on" position without starting the engine.
  • Inspect the Glow Plugs: For the 6.9 diesel, glow plugs are essential for starting, especially in cold weather. If they’re malfunctioning, the engine may not start.

3. Basic Troubleshooting Steps

  • Change the Battery: If the battery is old or weak, replacing it can sometimes do the trick.
  • Fuel Filter: A clogged fuel filter can prevent the engine from getting the fuel it needs. Replacing it is a relatively easy task.
  • Starter and Connections: Check the connections to the starter and the battery. Corroded or loose connections can lead to starting issues.

4. Getting Help

  • Mechanic: If you’re unsure about diagnosing the issue, it might be worth taking it to a mechanic. They can perform a thorough analysis and give you a better idea of what’s wrong.
  • Community Forums: Don’t forget about the Bullnose Ford subreddit or other forums. You can share your symptoms and get advice from others who have faced similar problems.

5. Consider Your Options

  • Project Truck: If the truck doesn’t run and needs significant work, consider if you want to invest time and money into getting it back on the road. Sometimes, a non-running vehicle can be a great learning project!

Conclusion

Even if the truck doesn’t run, it can still be an exciting opportunity to learn about mechanics and diesel engines. Take your time, and don’t hesitate to ask for help as you work through the issues.

If you have any specific symptoms you want to discuss or questions about troubleshooting, let me know! I’m here to help you get that Bullnose back on the road!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the advantages of converting a 1984 F250 from 2WD to 4WD using a Dana 44 straight axle?


Bullnose Bill explaining the 1984 F250 2WD to 4WD conversion process.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Converting a 1984 F250 from 2WD to 4WD is a big project, but definitely doable. Going with a Dana 44 straight axle is a solid choice — especially if you want a more straightforward and durable setup compared to the Twin-Traction Beam (TTB) alternative. Let’s break it down.

Why Choose a Dana 44 Solid Axle?

  1. Simplicity: The solid axle with radius arms and coil springs is less complex than a TTB setup. That means fewer moving parts to maintain and replace.

  2. Durability: Solid axles are generally more robust, which is a plus if you plan on doing any heavy-duty work or off-roading.

  3. Aftermarket Support: A solid axle swap has a lot of community support and available parts, including lift kits and custom fabrication parts.

Steps for the Conversion

  1. Front Axle Swap:

    • Remove the existing 2WD suspension and components.
    • Install the Dana 44 axle. You’ll need to ensure you have the proper brackets for mounting the radius arms and coil springs to your frame.
    • Make sure the axle is correctly aligned and centered.
  2. Transfer Case Installation:

    • Swap out the 2WD transmission or modify it to accept a transfer case. A transmission with a removable tailshaft is ideal.
    • Install a transfer case compatible with your transmission. The NP205 or NP208 are common choices.
  3. Driveline Modifications:

    • Fabricate or source new drive shafts for both the front and rear. Length and yoke compatibility will be crucial.
    • Ensure the U-joints are properly aligned to avoid vibrations.
  4. Steering Adjustments:

    • Modify or replace the steering linkage to accommodate the new axle.
    • Consider a crossover steering setup if you’re looking to improve handling and reduce bump steer.
  5. Brake System:

    • Adapt the brake lines for the new axle setup.
    • You may need a proportioning valve to balance the brake force between the front and rear.

Pros and Cons

  • Pros: Improved off-road capability, increased durability, and a straightforward setup compared to TTB.
  • Cons: Requires cutting and welding, driveline modifications, and potential challenges with legalities or inspections.

Potential Pitfalls

  • Alignment: Proper alignment of the axle and radius arms is crucial. Improper setup can lead to handling issues.
  • Parts Compatibility: Ensure all parts like the transfer case, drive shafts, and steering components are compatible with your setup.
  • Budget: This swap isn’t cheap. Consider all costs, including unforeseen ones, before diving in.

If you’re looking for more detailed guidance, check out some resources on the Bullnose Ford subreddit or see if the Bullnose Garage channel has related videos. Good luck with the swap, and keep asking questions if you need more info!


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the differences between the ZF5 S42 and S47 transmissions in a 1987 Ford F350?


Bullnose Bill explaining ZF5 transmission differences for 1987 Ford F350.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Ah, the 1987 F350 with the mighty 460! That’s a great truck you’ve got there. As for your ZF5 transmission, it can be a bit tricky to identify between the S42 and S47 when there’s no tag present, but I can help you narrow it down.

Generally, the S42 has a slightly shorter gear ratio compared to the S47, and it’s often found in lighter-duty applications. The S47, on the other hand, is designed for heavier loads and has a more robust structure.

Here are a couple of ways to help you identify which one you have:

  1. Gear Ratios: The easiest way to differentiate between the two is by checking the gear ratios. If you can get access to the transmission and operate it, the S42 typically has a first gear ratio of about 5.61:1, while the S47 has a ratio of around 6.34:1.

  2. Input Shaft: If you have a way to measure the input shaft length, the S42 usually has a shorter input shaft compared to the S47.

  3. Physical Dimensions: Sometimes, looking at the physical size and the shape of the transmission can provide clues. The S47 is a bit bulkier, especially around the bell housing area.

If you’d like to dive deeper into this topic, I recommend checking out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel or forums like the F150 Forum and the Bullnose Ford subreddit. There are plenty of folks there with hands-on experience who can lend a hand!

Let me know if you have any other questions or need further clarification!


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User:

Is it possible to replace a ZF5 S42 with a ZF5 S47?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Absolutely! You can use a ZF5 S47 in place of a ZF5 S42, but there are a few considerations to keep in mind to ensure a smooth swap.

  1. Mounting Points: The transmission mounting points are generally the same, so you should be able to use the same crossmember. Double-check alignment to avoid any issues.

  2. Driveshaft Length: The S47 might have slightly different dimensions than the S42, especially if there are variations in gear ratios. You may need to adjust your driveshaft length or reconfigure its angles to prevent any vibrations or wear.

  3. Shift Linkage: Ensure the shift linkage is compatible. While they should generally be interchangeable, you may need to adjust or modify the linkage to fit perfectly.

  4. Gear Ratio: Since the S47 is usually geared for heavier loads, you might notice a difference in performance. It could mean a more robust feel when towing or hauling, but it might also change how your truck feels under normal driving conditions.

  5. Transmission Fluid: Don’t forget to use the correct transmission fluid as specified for the ZF5 to maintain optimal performance.

It’s always best to consult a service manual for your specific truck for detailed specifications, or consider reaching out to the Bullnose community forums, like the Bullnose Ford subreddit, for additional insights from fellow enthusiasts who’ve tackled similar swaps.

If you have any more questions or need further details about your setup, feel free to ask!

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User:

Can the transmission’s casting number indicate its model?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Yes, you can often identify your ZF5 transmission (whether it’s the S42 or S47) by the casting number found on the side of the transmission case. This number is usually stamped or cast into the metal and can provide important information regarding the specific model and its specifications.

Here’s how you can go about it:

  1. Locate the Casting Number: Check the driver’s side of the transmission case. You might need to clean off some grime or dirt to see it clearly.

  2. Decode the Number: Once you have the casting number, you can look it up online or refer to a service manual for your specific truck to determine the exact specifications. Some forums, like the Bullnose Ford subreddit, may also have members who can help you decode it.

  3. Compare with Known Values: If you find the casting number, you can compare it with known values for the S42 and S47 to figure out which one you have.

Identifying the correct transmission by casting number is a great way to ensure you have the right parts and information for maintenance or swapping. If you need help interpreting the casting number, feel free to share it, and I’ll do my best to assist you!

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User:

What does the casting number 130730108 4.4 signify?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Great job finding that casting number! Based on the casting number you’ve provided, 130730108 4.4, this generally corresponds to the ZF5 transmission, specifically indicating that it’s likely an S47.

The "4.4" part often refers to the output shaft diameter, but the most definitive way to confirm it’s the S47 is through the overall build and characteristics of the transmission as mentioned earlier. The S47 is designed for heavier-duty applications, which aligns with your 1987 F350 and its capabilities.

If you’re looking to verify this further, I’d recommend checking out forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or consulting with the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel, as there are plenty of enthusiasts who can offer additional insights on identifying ZF5 transmissions.

Do you have any more questions about your truck or any projects you’re working on? I’m here to help!

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User:

Where is the casting number located on the transmission of a cab and chassis 4×4 truck?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Thanks for the clarifying details! If the casting number is on the passenger side and your truck is a cab and chassis 4×4, that can impact the type of ZF5 transmission you have.

In cab and chassis configurations, Ford often used the ZF5 S47 due to its robust construction and ability to handle the additional weight and towing demands that come with those setups. The S47 is typically found in heavier applications, which fits well with the cab and chassis design.

Keep in mind that the layout and gearing of 4×4 systems can also influence the transmission’s characteristics. If you’re planning on any modifications or repairs, having the S47 means you might have a bit more durability for heavy towing or off-road use.

If you’re considering swapping or replacing parts, ensure you’re sourcing components that match the S47 specifications. Also, feel free to reach out to the Bullnose Garage community or the forums for any specific advice related to cab and chassis models!

If you have more questions about your specific setup or any other projects, just let me know!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What is the maximum horsepower the 1986 Ford F150 351 Windsor engine block can handle?


Bullnose Bill explaining horsepower limits of the 1986 Ford F150 351 Windsor.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

The 351 Windsor is a sturdy engine that can handle a good amount of horsepower, especially if properly built and maintained. Stock, the 351 Windsor from 1986 makes about 150-200 horsepower, depending on the specific configuration.

If you’re looking to increase its performance, many enthusiasts have successfully pushed these engines to around 400-450 horsepower with the right modifications, such as upgrading the intake and exhaust systems, adding a performance camshaft, and possibly rebuilding the internals with stronger components.

Just remember, with great power comes great responsibility! Make sure your transmission, rear end, and brakes are up to the task if you’re planning to boost the power. And if you want some insights or modifications that have worked for others, check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford. Happy wrenching!


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User:

What is the horsepower output with a 4.10 ratio and 31-inch tires?

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User:

How does the 450hp with a 4.10 ratio and 31-inch tires affect 0-60 times?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Estimating 0-60 mph times can be a bit tricky since it depends on several factors, including weight, traction, and tuning. However, with a well-tuned 1986 Ford F150 equipped with a 351 Windsor producing around 450 horsepower, a 4.10 gear ratio, and 31-inch tires, you’re likely looking at a 0-60 time in the ballpark of 6 to 7 seconds, assuming good traction and a proper launch.

Keep in mind that a lot of variables can affect this time:

  1. Weight of the Truck: If you’ve got a lot of extra equipment or a heavy load, that will slow you down.

  2. Tires: The type of tires you have can significantly affect grip and acceleration. Performance tires will give you a better launch than all-terrain ones.

  3. Transmission Type: If you’re using a manual transmission, your shifting skill will play a big role in your acceleration. An automatic with a good torque converter can help you get off the line quicker.

  4. Tuning and Fuel: Proper tuning and using high-octane fuel can help you maximize that horsepower, leading to better acceleration.

  5. Launch Technique: How you launch the vehicle can impact your times. Too much wheel spin or launching without enough power can slow you down.

If you want real-world insights from other Bullnose owners, don’t forget to check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford. Happy racing!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.