Category Bullnose Bill Answer

What is the correct clutch kit for a 1979 Ford Bronco with a T-18 transmission?


Bullnose Bill demonstrating clutch kit installation on a Ford truck.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Ah, the 1979 Ford Bronco! What a classic ride—strong, rugged, and full of character! Now, when it comes to your clutch not disengaging, that can be a bit tricky. Let’s tackle it step by step and get you sorted out.

Diagnosing the Clutch Issue

Before diving into the clutch kit selection, it’s a good idea to ensure the problem is indeed with the clutch itself. Here are a few things to check:

  1. Hydraulic System: If your Bronco has a hydraulic clutch, check the fluid level and look for leaks. Air in the system can cause disengagement issues.
  2. Clutch Fork: Inspect the clutch fork for proper movement. If it’s bent or worn, it might not be allowing the clutch to disengage.
  3. Clutch Cable: If you have a cable-operated clutch, make sure the cable is adjusted correctly and isn’t frayed.

Choosing the Right Clutch Kit

Assuming everything checks out, here’s what you’ll need for your T-18 transmission setup. For the 1979 Bronco, the clutch kit usually consists of three main components: the clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing.

Recommended Clutch Kits:

  1. Standard Clutch Kit: A standard clutch kit for the T-18 typically comes with a 10.5-inch clutch disc. You can check out brands like LUK or Exedy, as they tend to offer solid kits.
  2. Upgraded Performance Kit: If you’re looking for something with a bit more bite—perhaps for off-roading or heavier towing—consider an upgraded kit. Kits from Centerforce or Spec are popular in the community and provide improved performance.

Where to Buy

You can find these kits at your local auto parts store or online retailers like RockAuto or Summit Racing. Just make sure to specify that you’re looking for a clutch kit for a 1979 Ford Bronco with a T-18 transmission.

If you want to dive deeper into the installation process or look for alternative solutions, the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel has some fantastic content that could guide you through the steps, though they may focus more on the Bullnose Fords.

Feel free to reach out if you have any more questions or need further assistance! Happy wrenching!


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User:

Does my cable-operated clutch affect the kit choice?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Thanks for clarifying that you have a cable-operated clutch! That definitely helps narrow things down.

Troubleshooting a Cable-Operated Clutch

Here are a few specific things to check with a cable-operated clutch since they can sometimes be the culprit when your clutch won’t disengage:

  1. Cable Inspection: Start by visually inspecting the clutch cable for fraying or damage. If it looks worn, it may need to be replaced.

  2. Adjustment: Make sure the cable is adjusted correctly. There should be a little slack when the pedal is at rest. If it’s too tight, it might not allow the clutch to disengage fully.

  3. Clutch Pedal Linkage: Check the linkage and pivot points for any wear or binding. Sometimes, a stuck pivot or worn bushing can make the pedal feel stiff and prevent it from moving the clutch fork properly.

  4. Clutch Fork Movement: If possible, observe the movement of the clutch fork when you press the pedal. It should move smoothly and fully disengage the clutch. If it’s not moving well, there might be an issue with the clutch fork itself or the pivot point.

Replacement Parts

If you determine that the cable or other components are worn and need replacing, here’s what you’ll typically need:

  • Clutch Cable: Make sure to specify that you’re looking for a clutch cable for a 1979 Ford Bronco with a cable-operated clutch. Brands like Dorman or Spectre often have good options.

  • Clutch Kit: As mentioned earlier, for the clutch kit, you’ll still be looking for the standard 10.5-inch kit compatible with your T-18 transmission. The clutch kit will include the disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing.

Installation and Resources

If you’re planning to do the work yourself, be sure to refer to a repair manual for torque specifications and procedures, especially for installing the new clutch components. While the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel might focus on the Bullnose Fords, they often cover basic mechanical principles that can be very helpful for similar tasks.

Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have more questions or need assistance with anything else! I’m here to help you get that Bronco back on the road!

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User:

Why isn’t my clutch fork moving enough to disengage the clutch?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Got it! If the clutch fork isn’t moving enough to disengage the clutch, that’s definitely something we need to address. Let’s go through a few potential causes and solutions:

Possible Causes for Insufficient Clutch Fork Movement

  1. Worn Clutch Cable: If the cable is frayed or stretched, it may not be pulling the clutch fork far enough. Replacing the cable could solve the issue.

  2. Cable Adjustment: If the cable is too tight or not adjusted correctly, it can prevent the fork from moving fully. Check the adjustment and ensure there’s some slack when the pedal is at rest.

  3. Clutch Fork Pivot Point: The pivot point where the clutch fork attaches can sometimes get gummed up or rusty. Cleaning and lubricating the pivot point may help it move more freely.

  4. Clutch Fork Wear or Damage: Inspect the clutch fork for any signs of bending or wear. If it’s not in good condition, it may need to be replaced.

  5. Clutch Disc Binding: If the clutch disc is binding against the flywheel or pressure plate, it can prevent disengagement. This could happen if the disc is worn unevenly or if there’s debris or rust inside the bell housing.

  6. Throwout Bearing Issues: If the throwout bearing is worn or damaged, it may not be applying sufficient pressure to the clutch. Inspecting and replacing it may be necessary.

What to Do Next

  1. Inspect the Cable: If you haven’t already, check the cable for wear or fraying. If you find any issues, replacing the cable should be your first step.

  2. Adjust the Cable: If the cable looks good, try adjusting it to ensure there is enough free play.

  3. Check the Fork and Pivot: Remove the inspection cover (if applicable) and see if the clutch fork moves freely. Lubricate the pivot point and check for any bends or breaks.

  4. Examine the Throwout Bearing: If you’re pulling the clutch to check the other components, it’s a good idea to inspect the throwout bearing too.

Community Resources

You might also find additional insights from fellow Bronco enthusiasts on the Bullnose Ford subreddit or forums like the F150 Forum. Sometimes, sharing experiences with others can lead to finding a solution you might not have considered.

If you have any more questions or need further guidance as you work through this, feel free to reach out! I’m here to help you get that clutch sorted out!

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User:

Can a 351 Windsor flywheel be used with a 351 Cleveland?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great question! The 351 Windsor and 351 Cleveland engines have different flywheel designs, and they are not directly interchangeable. Here are some key points to keep in mind:

Differences Between the Flywheels

  1. Bolt Pattern: The bolt pattern on the crankshafts is different between the two engines. The 351 Windsor uses a 28-ounce imbalance flywheel, while the 351 Cleveland uses a 50-ounce imbalance flywheel, contributing to the differences.

  2. Diameter and Tooth Count: The flywheels also vary in diameter and tooth count depending on the starter used. This means that even if you were able to mechanically fit them, they may not work properly with your starter.

  3. Starter Compatibility: Each engine type uses different starters, so even if you were to find a way to fit a Cleveland flywheel onto a Windsor, you’d likely run into issues with the starter engagement.

Conclusion

In short, you cannot use a 351 Windsor flywheel on a 351 Cleveland or vice versa. If you’re working on a swap or needing to replace a flywheel, it’s essential to use the correct one for your specific engine model.

If you have more questions about your project or need further assistance, feel free to ask! I’m here to help!

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User:

Why is my 351 Windsor pressure plate 0.40in shorter than the original?

Bill avatar
Bill:

It sounds like you’re dealing with a potential mismatch in pressure plate specifications, which can lead to issues with clutch engagement and disengagement. Let’s break down what you’re seeing and what you can do about it.

Understanding the Measurement

The distance from the clutch fingers to the engine mount surface is critical for proper clutch operation. If your new pressure plate measures 0.40 inches less than the original, here are some potential implications:

  1. Engagement Issues: A pressure plate that is shorter could lead to incomplete disengagement of the clutch, making it difficult to shift gears.

  2. Clutch Travel: If the pressure plate is not allowing enough travel for the clutch disc to disengage, it might lead to grinding gears or difficulty in shifting.

  3. Clutch Fork Movement: A significant difference in pressure plate height may not allow the clutch fork to move properly, preventing full disengagement.

What to Do Next

  1. Verify Specifications: Double-check the specifications for both the original and new pressure plates. Make sure they are designed for the same clutch disc and setup.

  2. Check Compatibility: Ensure that the new pressure plate is compatible with your 351 Windsor setup. Sometimes, parts that seem interchangeable might have small differences that can lead to issues.

  3. Return or Exchange: If you find that the new pressure plate is indeed significantly different and incompatible, it may be best to return or exchange it for one that matches the original specifications.

  4. Installation Inspection: If you’ve already installed it, consider removing it and inspecting both the clutch disc and the pressure plate for any wear or damage that might affect the fit.

Community Insights

For more tailored experiences regarding pressure plate measurements and compatibility, checking in on forums like the F150 Forum or the Bullnose Ford subreddit can provide insights from fellow enthusiasts who may have encountered similar situations.

If you have any more questions or need further clarification on this, feel free to ask! I’m here to help get your clutch situation sorted out!

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User:

What are my options for a 351 Windsor clutch pressure plate?

Bill avatar
Bill:

When it comes to choosing a clutch pressure plate for your 351 Windsor, you’ve got several great options depending on your driving style and needs. Here’s a breakdown of some popular choices:

Standard Pressure Plates

  1. LUK: Known for their durability and reliability, LUK pressure plates are a solid choice for a standard replacement. They offer good performance for everyday driving.

  2. Exedy: Another reputable brand, Exedy offers OEM-quality pressure plates that work well for stock applications.

Performance Pressure Plates

If you’re looking for something that can handle more power or provide a firmer feel, consider these options:

  1. Centerforce: Their pressure plates are known for providing increased clamping force, making them suitable for performance applications. The Centerforce II is particularly popular among enthusiasts for its balance of performance and drivability.

  2. Spec Clutch: Spec offers various pressure plates that are designed for different performance levels. Their Stage 1 and Stage 2 pressure plates provide increased clamping force without sacrificing too much drivability.

  3. McLeod Racing: McLeod pressure plates are respected in the performance community. They offer options that cater to both street and strip applications, providing solid performance under high torque.

Heavy-Duty Options

If you’re planning to tow or engage in heavy-duty tasks with your Windsor:

  1. Valair Clutch: Valair specializes in heavy-duty clutches and pressure plates, designed to handle increased loads and provide excellent performance.

  2. RAM Clutches: RAM offers heavy-duty pressure plates that can withstand the rigors of towing and performance driving.

Where to Buy

You can find these pressure plates at local auto parts stores or online retailers like Summit Racing, RockAuto, or even Amazon. Just make sure to specify that you’re looking for a pressure plate for a 351 Windsor engine.

Final Thoughts

When selecting a pressure plate, consider your vehicle’s use. Daily driving may not require the same setup as a performance or towing application. Always check for compatibility with your existing clutch disc and other components.

If you have any more questions about your setup or need further guidance, feel free to reach out! I’m here to help you make the right choice for your 351 Windsor!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Can I use a serpentine setup from a later model on my 1985 F-150 351W?


Bullnose Bill demonstrating the process of adapting a serpentine setup on a 1985 F-150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Absolutely, you can adapt a later-model serpentine belt setup to the 351W in your 1985 F-150! It’s a popular modification that can improve belt alignment and tension. However, there are a few things you should be aware of to make the transition smoother.

Compatibility

  1. Engine Mounts and Accessories: Make sure that the accessories (like the alternator, power steering pump, and A/C compressor) from the later model fit properly. You might need to get adapters or custom brackets, depending on the specific setup you choose.

  2. Water Pump: Many late-model serpentine setups use a different water pump. You may need to switch to a compatible water pump that matches the pulley alignment of the serpentine system.

Belt Tensioner

  1. Belt Tensioner: The later models often come with a belt tensioner that helps maintain proper belt tension. Make sure to get one that will fit with your setup.

Pulley Alignment

  1. Pulley Alignment: Proper alignment is crucial to avoid premature wear on the belt and accessories. You might need to add shims or modify brackets to ensure everything lines up correctly.

Wiring and Electrical

  1. Wiring: If you’re swapping in a serpentine system that includes components like an electric fan, you may need to address wiring changes. Be prepared to do some minor electrical work.

Clearances

  1. Clearance Issues: Depending on the accessories you choose, you may run into clearance issues with the radiator or the front of the engine bay. Always mock up your setup before finalizing everything.

Resources

For more detailed steps and visual guidance, check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They often cover similar modifications and can provide some useful insights and tips from the community.

It’s a fun project that can bring a fresh look to your engine bay, and I know you’ll enjoy the benefits of better performance and reliability. If you have any more questions along the way, feel free to ask!


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User:

Which vehicles are ideal donors for this serpentine swap?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Great question! When it comes to finding a donor vehicle for a serpentine swap on your 351W, you want to look for trucks or vans from the late ’80s to early ’90s. Here are some recommended donor vehicles:

Best Donor Vehicles

  1. Ford F-150 (1987-1996): These trucks often came with the 5.0L or 5.8L engines, which are similar to the 351W. They typically have compatible serpentine setups.

  2. Ford Bronco (1987-1996): Like the F-150, the Bronco from this era will have a similar engine setup and can provide you with the serpentine belt system you need.

  3. Ford Explorer (1991-1994): The V8 Explorers can also have compatible hardware, especially if you’re looking for a more compact setup.

  4. Ford Expedition (1997 onward): If you’re looking for something newer, the Expedition can provide a modern serpentine setup, though modifications may be needed to fit in the Bullnose.

Where to Find Donor Vehicles

  • Local Junkyards: Check out your local auto salvage yards. They can be a goldmine for donor parts. Bring a good list and take your time to find what you need.

  • Online Marketplaces: Websites like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and OfferUp often have listings for older vehicles being sold for parts. You can often negotiate a good deal.

  • Classic Car Shows: Attend local car shows or swap meets. You might find someone with a parts truck or get leads on where to find one.

  • Community Forums: Don’t forget to check the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford. The community there is helpful and might share leads or even have parts available.

Tips for Buying

  • Inspect the Donor Vehicle: If possible, inspect the donor vehicle before buying. Look for signs of wear and check the condition of the serpentine components.

  • Ask About History: Try to find out how well the vehicle was maintained. A well-kept truck will have better parts for your swap.

Swapping to a serpentine setup can be a rewarding project, and with the right donor, you’ll be well on your way to improving your Bullnose. If you have more questions about the swap or need tips along the way, just let me know!

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User:

Do Mustang brackets fit the serpentine setup for the 351W?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Yes, Mustang brackets can indeed work for your serpentine swap on the 351W! In fact, using brackets from a late-model Mustang can be a great way to achieve a clean installation, but there are a few things to keep in mind:

Compatibility

  1. Engine Year: Make sure the Mustang brackets you’re considering come from a car with the same engine configuration. For example, 5.0L Mustangs from the late ’80s to early ’90s will have similar setups.

  2. Belt Alignment: Brackets from Mustangs are designed to work with their specific accessory configurations, so you’ll need to ensure that the alignment matches your setup on the Bullnose. This is crucial for proper belt tension and performance.

Modifications

  1. Fabrication: You may need to do a bit of fabrication to make the Mustang brackets fit your Bullnose. Custom brackets or spacers might be necessary to get everything aligned properly.

  2. Accessory Compatibility: Keep in mind that the accessories (like the alternator and power steering pump) from the Mustang may differ from what you had on your Bullnose. You may need to swap out some components to ensure everything works smoothly.

Benefits

  1. Weight and Aesthetics: Mustang brackets are often lighter and can provide a more polished look in your engine bay, which is a nice bonus!

Resources

For a more detailed overview and tips on using Mustang brackets, you might want to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They often dive into modifications and can provide some visual guidance that’s super helpful.

Overall, using Mustang brackets can be a great choice for your serpentine swap. Just be prepared for some trial and error in terms of fitting and alignment. If you run into any hiccups, feel free to ask for more advice! Happy wrenching!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What do I need for a 460 engine swap in my 1985 F150?


Bullnose Bill explaining the 1985 Ford F150 460 engine swap process.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Sure thing! Swapping a 460 big-block into your ’85 F150 with a 300 inline-six is a popular upgrade for more power. Let’s break it down into the key areas you need to address:

Engine Mounts

  • Mounts: You’ll need engine mounts specific to the 460. The frame-side brackets from a big-block F250 of the same era should work. Aftermarket kits are also available if you can’t source originals.
  • Clearance: The 460 is wider and taller than the 300, so check for clearance around the brake booster and steering components.

Transmission

  • Bellhousing: The NP435 you have won’t bolt directly to the 460. You’ll need a bellhousing compatible with the 460. Fortunately, the NP435 was used with a variety of engines, so you might find a bellhousing from a donor truck.
  • Clutch: Ensure your clutch setup fits the 460’s flywheel. You may need a new clutch kit to match the bellhousing and 460 flywheel.

Exhaust

  • Headers/Manifolds: Stock manifolds from the 460 donor might fit, but headers designed for the swap can improve performance and fitment.
  • Exhaust Routing: You’ll probably need a custom exhaust setup from the headers back to accommodate the chassis and clearance changes.

Cooling System

  • Radiator: The 460 will generate more heat than your 300, so upgrade to a larger radiator. A V8 radiator from a similar era F-Series should suffice.
  • Fan Shroud: Ensure you have the correct fan shroud for the new radiator and engine position.

Fuel System

  • Fuel Pump: The 460 from ’89 likely uses an electric fuel pump, so you’ll need to update your fuel system if your truck still has the mechanical pump setup.
  • Fuel Lines: Ensure fuel lines are rated for higher pressure if upgrading to an electric pump.

Electrical and Accessories

  • Wiring Harness: You’ll need to modify or replace sections of your engine wiring harness to accommodate the 460’s electronic components.
  • Alternator and Brackets: Make sure you have the correct brackets for the alternator and other accessories.

Driveshaft

  • Length and Yokes: The driveshaft might need modification in length, and possibly a new yoke, depending on the placement of the 460 and the transmission setup.

Additional Considerations

  • Weight and Suspension: The 460 is heavier than the 300, so consider upgrading front springs or shocks to handle the extra weight.
  • Documentation: Keep track of part numbers and sources for everything you change. This will help for future repairs or replacements.

This is a general roadmap, and specific needs can vary depending on the exact components from the donor and your preferences. Keep in mind, the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) is a great place to connect with others who’ve done similar swaps. Good luck with your project, and feel free to ask if you have more questions!


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User:

Is the NP435 input shaft compatible with the C6 for this swap?

Bill avatar

Bill:

You’re right that the NP435 and C6 both used the same input shaft size in many cases, but the bellhousing bolt pattern is what determines compatibility. The C6 transmission was commonly used behind the 460, so its bellhousing pattern matches the big block.

However, the NP435 bellhousing originally mated to a 300 inline-six won’t bolt up to the 460 without a compatible bellhousing. You’ll need to source a bellhousing either from a big-block setup or one that’s designed to mate an NP435 to a 460.

Here’s a quick checklist:

  • Bellhousing: Make sure you have one that fits the 460.
  • Clutch Disc: Even if the input shaft splines match, ensure your clutch disc matches both the diameter and spline count needed for the 460 flywheel and NP435 input.
  • Throwout Bearing and Linkage: Ensure compatibility with the new bellhousing and clutch setup.

Since minor variances can occur based on production years and specific applications, double-checking these parts will save you hassle down the road. Always good to measure twice and swap once! If you’ve got more questions, just let me know.

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User:

How does swapping a 460 into my truck differ from 1986 4×4 models?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Great question! The Bullnose trucks that came with a 460 from the factory have some specific features and considerations that simplify the swap compared to starting with a 300 inline-six. Here’s a breakdown:

Factory 460 Setup

  • Engine Bay Setup: Trucks originally equipped with a 460 have engine mounts and brackets specifically designed for the big block right from the factory. This means everything is positioned for ideal fitment with no need for modification.

  • Cooling System: Factory 460 trucks come with a larger radiator and appropriate fan shroud. This setup is specifically designed to handle the extra heat generated by the larger engine.

  • Exhaust System: These trucks have exhaust manifolds and routing designed for the 460, which ensures proper clearance and fitment. Custom exhaust work is usually unnecessary.

  • Fuel System: They come equipped with the correct fuel system setup, often with an electric fuel pump, to meet the demands of the 460.

  • Transmission and Drivetrain: The transmission, like your NP435 or a C6, has the correct bellhousing and input setup for a direct bolt-on. Driveshaft lengths and yokes are also set up to work with the larger powertrain.

Differences When Starting with a 300 Inline-Six

  • Mounts and Brackets: As previously mentioned, with a 300 inline-six starting point, you’ll need to find or fabricate engine mounts and brackets for the 460.

  • General Fitment: You may encounter clearance issues with brake components or steering, which requires some additional adjustment or fabrication.

  • Upgrades: Cooling and exhaust systems will likely need upgrades to handle the 460’s requirements.

Other Considerations

  • Availability of Parts: Finding OEM parts from a factory 460 truck can be a treasure hunt. Junkyards or forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit can be valuable resources.

  • Cost and Time: Consider the potential for increased cost and project time as you source and adapt components to make everything fit and work together seamlessly.

If you come across a donor truck with a factory 460, it can significantly cut down on the work involved in a swap. But with the right preparation and parts, swapping a 460 into your truck is very doable and can be a rewarding upgrade. Keep the questions coming if you need more info!

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User:

Would using a 1985 2WD with a 460 and 33" tires require any modifications?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Looks like that’s a variation of something we’ve already covered. The change in tire size or setup won’t significantly affect the answer. Let’s dig into a new topic! If there’s something else you’d like to explore, feel free to ask.

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User:

Is there a Bullnose Garage video on this full engine swap?

Bill avatar

Bill:

I’m not sure if there’s a specific video on Bullnose Garage that covers a full 460 engine swap for the Bullnose trucks. However, I’d recommend checking out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for any related content, as they often cover engine swaps and similar projects. If there’s no direct video, they might have content that goes over parts of the process, like engine removal or installation tips. It’s definitely worth a look. If you have more questions or need further guidance, just let me know!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the names of the four bolts that secure the rear axle in a 1980 Ford F-150 300 inline 6?


Bullnose Bill discussing the rear axle bolts for a 1980 Ford F-150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Hey there! The 1980 Ford F-150 with the 300 Inline-6 is a classic workhorse. Now, regarding the rear axle, the four bolts you’re referring to are typically called "axle bearing retainer bolts" or simply "rear axle bolts." They secure the axle housing to the center section of the differential.

When you’re working on those bolts, make sure you’re using the correct torque specifications. For the 9-inch rear end, it’s usually around 35-45 ft-lbs, but it’s always good to double-check a service manual or reliable online resources for your specific setup.

If you’re diving into an axle project, don’t forget the importance of a good sealant and checking the condition of the axle bearings while you’re at it! Happy wrenching! If you have more questions, feel free to ask!


User avatar

User:

Where can I find new rear axle bolts for my 1980 Ford F-150?

Bill avatar

Bill:

You can find new axle bearing retainer bolts for your 1980 Ford F-150 at several places:

  1. Local Auto Parts Stores: Stores like AutoZone, O’Reilly Auto Parts, or NAPA often carry common fasteners. Just bring in the old bolts or the part number if you have it, and they can help you find a match.

  2. Online Retailers: Websites like RockAuto, Summit Racing, and even Amazon can be excellent sources for specific parts like these bolts. Make sure to check the descriptions to ensure compatibility with your 9-inch axle.

  3. Specialty Classic Ford Parts Suppliers: Companies like LMC Truck or Dennis Carpenter specialize in classic Ford parts and should have what you need. They have catalogs that cater specifically to classic truck enthusiasts!

  4. Ford Dealerships: If you’re looking for original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts, your local Ford dealer can sometimes order them for you, although it might be pricier than other options.

Before placing an order, it’s always a good idea to double-check the specifications and, if possible, compare them to your existing bolts for a perfect fit. Happy shopping! If you need help with anything else, just let me know!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What does it take to swap a 1982 Ford Bronco from C6 to ZF5 4WD?


Bullnose Bill assists with the process of upgrading a 1982 Ford Bronco transmission.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

I’m "Bullnose Bill," your friendly virtual mechanic specializing in classic Ford trucks, especially the iconic Bullnose models from 1980 to 1986. I’m here to help you with maintenance tips, repairs, modifications, and any questions you might have about these beloved vehicles. So, if you’ve got a question or need some advice, just let me know!


User avatar

User:

What is required to swap a 1982 Ford Bronco C6 to ZF5 4WD NP208?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Swapping a C6 transmission for a ZF5 in your 1982 Ford Bronco with a 351W is a great way to enhance your truck’s performance, especially if you’re looking for better gear ratios and improved drivability. Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll need to consider for this swap:

Parts and Equipment Required

  1. ZF5 Transmission:

    • Make sure to source a ZF5 that’s compatible with the 351W. Check for one that includes the transmission harness and any necessary adapters.
  2. NP208 Transfer Case:

    • You’ll need the NP208 transfer case, which is a great choice for 4WD. Be sure to get the correct adapter for the ZF5.
  3. Adapter Plate:

    • An adapter plate will be required to connect the ZF5 to the NP208. These can often be found from specialty suppliers or online.
  4. Transmission Mount:

    • The ZF5 will require a different transmission mount, so be sure to grab one that fits.
  5. Driveshafts:

    • You may need to modify your existing driveshafts or get new ones to accommodate the different lengths and locations of the ZF5 and NP208.
  6. Clutch Assembly:

    • Since you’re moving to a manual transmission, a new clutch kit, flywheel, and associated hardware will be necessary.
  7. Pedal Assembly:

    • You’ll need a clutch pedal assembly, as the C6 is an automatic and the ZF5 is a manual.
  8. Wiring and Linkage:

    • Make sure to check the wiring harness for compatibility. You might need to do some modifications for the new transmission. Also, ensure that the shifter linkage will work with the ZF5.
  9. Crossmember:

    • You may need to modify or replace your existing crossmember to accommodate the new setup.

Tools Needed

  • Basic hand tools (sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers)
  • Transmission jack
  • Torque wrench
  • Engine hoist (optional, but helpful)

Step-by-Step Overview

  1. Preparation:

    • Disconnect the battery and remove the C6 transmission and transfer case. Make sure to drain fluids and disconnect any wiring.
  2. Install Clutch Components:

    • Install the clutch assembly and flywheel before the ZF5 is mounted.
  3. Mount the ZF5:

    • Position the ZF5 onto the engine and secure it with the appropriate bolts.
  4. Connect the NP208:

    • Attach the NP208 transfer case using the adapter plate you’ve sourced.
  5. Modify Driveshafts:

    • Adjust and install the driveshafts to ensure proper alignment.
  6. Install Pedal Assembly:

    • Install the clutch pedal assembly and modify the wiring harness as needed.
  7. Final Checks:

    • Ensure all connections are secure, and fill all fluids before starting the vehicle.

Tips

  • Documentation: Keep the service manuals handy for both the Bronco and the ZF5; they’ll help guide you through the swap.
  • Community Resources: For additional insights and experiences, check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit or forums like Gary’s Garagemahal to see if anyone else has tackled a similar swap.
  • Take Your Time: This swap can be quite involved, so take your time and double-check everything.

This is a comprehensive project, but with some patience and the right resources, you’ll have a Bronco that’s ready for any adventure! If you have any specific questions or need more details on a part of the process, feel free to ask!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What is the maximum tire size for an ’86 F150 4×4 with a 6-inch suspension lift and 3-inch body lift?


Bullnose Bill discussing tire size options for an 86 F150 4x4 with lifts.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

That’s a great question! With a setup like that on your ’86 F150 4×4, you can really go big with your tire size! Generally, you can fit tires up to 38 inches in diameter without any major modifications, assuming you have the right wheel backspacing and offsets.

However, here are a few things to keep in mind:

  1. Clearance: Make sure you have enough clearance, especially when turning or flexing the suspension. You might want to do a little test fit with cardboard or a smaller tire before committing to 38s.

  2. Wheel Width: Typically, a tire width of around 12.5 to 14.5 inches works well with that lift. Ensure you choose wheels with proper backspacing (usually 3.5 to 4.5 inches) to avoid rubbing.

  3. Fender Modifications: While many folks have fit those larger tires without issues, some might need to trim or modify the fenders slightly for a cleaner fit, especially if you plan on taking it off-road.

  4. Gear Ratio Adjustments: Lastly, if you’re going with such large tires, it’s wise to consider how it affects your gear ratios. You might need to re-gear your axles to maintain good power and performance.

It’s always a good idea to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for some visual guides and discussions on tire sizing and lift kits. They really dive deep into the nitty-gritty of these classic trucks!

Let me know if you have any other questions or need further guidance!


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User:

What are the performance upgrades for an ’86 F150 351W 4×4 with 205hp?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Wow, you’ve got quite the setup on your ’86 F150! It sounds like a beast! With that combination of a 351W, performance headers, a tuned carb, and a beefy 5.13 gear ratio, you’ll definitely notice some serious power and torque.

Here are a few tips to help you get the most out of your setup:

1. Fine-tune Your Carburetor

Since you have a tuned 750 cfm four-barrel carb, make sure it’s jetted correctly for your engine’s performance mods. You may want to experiment with different jets and power valves to optimize performance, especially under load.

2. Ignition Timing

With an upgraded ignition system, ensure that your timing is dialed in. A good starting point for a performance cam is around 32-36 degrees of total timing. Just remember to adjust it based on how the truck runs and any detonation you might hear.

3. Exhaust System

Since you’re running straight dual exhausts with performance headers, ensure you have quality flowmaster or similar mufflers to maintain a good balance of sound and back pressure. This setup should give you a nice growl while maximizing performance.

4. Suspension Setup

With your upgraded suspension, make sure all your components are properly aligned and in good condition. This will help with handling, especially off-road. Consider using heavy-duty shocks to complement your lift and improve ride quality.

5. Tire Selection

You mentioned having 28×10.5 tires. With your gearing, you might find that you can handle larger tires if you want to go bigger on the rubber, as discussed earlier. Just keep in mind your clearance when considering larger sizes.

6. Gear Ratio

Running a 5.13 gear ratio is great for off-road and towing, but it might be a bit low for highway driving. If you plan to hit the freeway often, you might want to consider a different set of ratios for better fuel economy at higher speeds.

7. Regular Maintenance

With all these performance upgrades, regular maintenance becomes even more critical. Change your oil regularly, keep an eye on your coolant levels, and make sure to inspect your drivetrain components frequently to catch any wear and tear early.

You might find it helpful to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for some videos on performance upgrades and maintenance tips. The community there is also super helpful if you have specific questions!

Keep up the awesome work on your truck, and if you have more questions or need further details, just holler!

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User:

How do I enhance my ’86 F150 351W 4×4’s performance with an 850 carb and spark plugs?

Bill avatar

Bill:

It sounds like you’ve built an impressive performance machine with your ’86 F150! With all those modifications, you can definitely expect a solid 0-60 time, especially with that 351W engine and the gearing you’ve chosen.

Estimating 0-60 Time

While I can’t give you an exact number since it can depend on various factors like vehicle weight, traction, and tuning, a well-tuned 351W with your setup could potentially get you anywhere from 6 to 8 seconds for 0-60 mph under good conditions. Here are a few things to consider that can help you optimize your performance:

  1. Traction: With the 28×10.5 tires, traction is key. Make sure your tires are adequately inflated and have good tread. If you’re hitting the pavement hard, consider a wider tire for better grip.

  2. Launch Technique: Since you have a 5-speed manual transmission, mastering your launch technique can make a significant difference. Try to find the sweet spot in your clutch engagement to minimize wheel spin while maximizing torque.

  3. Weight Reduction: If you’re looking to improve your times, consider removing any unnecessary weight from the truck. Every little bit helps!

  4. Tuning: Since you’ve mentioned a tuned fuel system and ignition, make sure that all components (like your carb and ignition timing) are dialed in perfectly. A small tweak can sometimes yield noticeable results!

  5. Environment: Keep in mind that weather conditions play a role too. Cooler air can improve performance, while high humidity or heat can make things a bit sluggish.

  6. Testing and Re-testing: Experiment with different launch RPMs to see where your engine feels strongest. Sometimes, it’s about finding the right balance between power and traction.

If you’re curious about real-world performance, consider checking out the Bullnose Garage channel or forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit. You might find others with similar setups sharing their experiences and times!

Let me know if you have more specific questions or need further guidance on any aspect of your build! Keep on truckin’!

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User:

Can my ’86 F150 351W 4×4 handle 28×12.5 tires with performance upgrades?

Bill avatar

Bill:

It looks like you’ve made some great upgrades to your ’86 F150! With the 351W engine, those performance mods, and now you’re running 28×12.5 tires, your truck is set up to be a serious performer.

Estimating Your 0-60 Time

With the combination of an 850 cfm carb, performance headers, and a 5-speed manual transmission, you could expect a 0-60 time in the ballpark of 6 to 8 seconds, similar to what I mentioned previously. The wider tires (28×12.5) provide more contact with the road, which should help with traction, especially if they’re properly inflated and have good tread.

Factors to Consider for Optimizing Performance

  1. Tire Selection: With 12.5 inches of width, you should have decent traction. However, make sure these tires are suited for your driving conditions—some are better for street and others for off-road.

  2. Launch Technique: Your launch technique can greatly affect your times. Practice finding the sweet spot for your clutch engagement to avoid wheel spin while maximizing torque.

  3. Tuning: Since you have a tuned ignition and fuel system, keeping everything in tip-top shape will make a difference. Regularly check the tuning on your carb and ensure that your ignition timing is optimized for the performance cam you have.

  4. Driving Conditions: Weather can impact your performance too. Cool, dry conditions are ideal for best times, so try to do any testing on days when the weather is favorable!

  5. Weight Management: If you’re looking to shave off a few tenths, consider removing any unnecessary weight. However, keep in mind that weight distribution can also affect handling, so take care when doing this.

  6. Periodic Maintenance: Make sure your performance spark plugs and ignition system are in good condition. Keeping everything well-maintained is key to maintaining your performance levels.

I’d recommend checking out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel or the Bullnose Ford subreddit for additional tips and experiences from other enthusiasts who’ve done similar builds. They often share insights that can help you optimize your truck even further!

If you have any more questions or need more specific guidance, feel free to ask! Happy trucking!

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User:

What performance options exist for my short bed ’86 F150 351W 4×4?

Bill avatar

Bill:

You’ve got a seriously impressive build on your ’86 F150! With the 351W engine and all the performance modifications you listed, you’re definitely set up for some fun driving!

0-60 Time Estimation

Given everything you’ve mentioned—headers, dual exhaust, a tuned 850 cfm carb, performance camshaft, and a 5-speed manual transmission—your truck could likely achieve a 0-60 time in the range of 6 to 7 seconds under optimal conditions. The 5.13 gear ratio will help you launch out of the hole, and the wider 28×12.5 tires should provide solid traction.

Tips for Optimizing Performance

  1. Tire Grip: Make sure those 28×12.5 tires are in excellent condition and properly inflated. Proper pressure is crucial for maximizing grip and performance.

  2. Launch Control: Work on your launch technique! Finding the right RPM to launch from can make a huge difference in off-the-line performance. Too low may bog your engine, and too high may cause excessive wheel spin.

  3. Tuning: Since you’ve got a tuned fuel system and ignition, regularly check to make sure everything is performing as it should. A good tune can make a world of difference in how the truck reacts when you put the pedal down.

  4. Overall Weight: Consider the weight of your truck and how it might affect performance. Reducing unnecessary weight can help improve your acceleration times.

  5. Weather Factors: Keep in mind that weather can affect performance. Cooler air is denser and can help your engine produce more power, while hot, humid days might slow you down a bit.

  6. Regular Maintenance: Ensure your performance spark plugs and ignition system are in top shape. Regular maintenance is key to keeping your engine running strong.

If you’re looking for more insights, I highly recommend checking out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They cover a lot of performance-related topics, and you might find some great tips and tricks that can help you get even more out of your truck.

Feel free to reach out if you have more questions or want to discuss further! Keep enjoying that Bullnose!

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User:

Can a cowl hood fit my short bed ’86 F150 351W 4×4 with performance upgrades?

Bill avatar

Bill:

You’re really putting together an amazing ride with that ’86 F150! With all those performance mods—including the cowl hood for added engine clearance and improved airflow—you’re set up to unleash some serious power.

Estimating 0-60 Time

With your combination of performance headers, an 850 cfm carb, performance cam, along with a 5.13 gear ratio and those 28×12.5 tires, you might see a 0-60 time in the range of 6 to 7 seconds, maybe even a bit faster under ideal conditions. The cowl hood not only looks great, but it can also help with engine cooling and airflow, which is a nice bonus for performance.

Performance Tips

  1. Cowl Hood Benefits: The cowl hood you’ve added is great for allowing more airflow to your engine, especially if you’ve got a high-performance set-up. It can help keep things cooler and improve performance under load.

  2. Optimize Tuning: Since you’ve got a tuned fuel system and ignition, keep an eye on how your truck performs over time. Regular tuning can help you maintain optimal performance. Consider a wideband O2 sensor to monitor your air-fuel ratio for the best performance.

  3. Launch Techniques: As we’ve discussed before, the way you launch can greatly affect your 0-60 times. Practice finding that sweet spot in your clutch engagement to minimize wheel spin while maximizing power.

  4. Tire Maintenance: Ensure your 28×12.5 tires are in excellent condition and properly inflated. The wider tires can provide a better footprint, but maintaining them is key for performance.

  5. Weight Distribution: Make sure to account for any weight distribution changes due to the cowl hood or other modifications. Sometimes, a slight adjustment can help improve handling and acceleration.

  6. Regular Checks: Keep up with maintenance on performance spark plugs and your ignition system. They play a crucial role in your engine’s efficiency and power delivery.

If you’re looking for more detailed advice or shared experiences, don’t forget to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. It’s a treasure trove of information, and the community there is super friendly and helpful!

Feel free to ask if you have more questions or want to dive deeper into any specific aspect of your truck. Enjoy every mile in that Bullnose!

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User:

What are the benefits of dual 750 carbs for my ’86 F150 351W 4×4?

Bill avatar

Bill:

You’re really stepping up your game with that ’86 F150! With dual 750 cfm carburetors, your 351W is definitely set to breathe better and produce some impressive power. Here’s how your setup is likely to affect your performance, particularly your 0-60 times.

Estimating 0-60 Time

With your combination of dual 750 cfm carbs, performance headers, camshaft, and a 5.13 gear ratio, you could realistically expect a 0-60 time in the range of 5.5 to 7 seconds. The dual carbs will provide a significant boost in airflow, which should translate to more power under acceleration, especially when combined with your performance mods.

Tips for Maximizing Performance

  1. Tuning the Carbs: With dual 750 cfm carbs, make sure they are properly synchronized and tuned. The tuning process is essential, as it will ensure that both carbs are delivering the correct air-fuel mixture to each bank of cylinders, maximizing performance.

  2. Air-Fuel Ratio: Consider monitoring your air-fuel ratio (AFR) during different driving conditions. A wideband O2 sensor can be a great investment to help you dial in your tuning perfectly.

  3. Weight Reduction: If you’re looking to improve your times even further, consider any unnecessary weight you can remove from the truck. This can help your acceleration without sacrificing stability too much.

  4. Launch Strategy: Perfecting your launch technique is crucial. Work on finding the right RPM to engage the clutch to avoid wheel spin while still getting a strong launch.

  5. Regular Maintenance: Keep an eye on your performance spark plugs and ignition system. Regular checks will ensure everything is functioning efficiently, which is vital with a performance setup like yours.

  6. Suspension Adjustments: Since you’ve upgraded the suspension, make sure it’s set up to handle the power and traction you’re trying to achieve. This may involve adjusting shocks, ride height, or sway bars to optimize handling.

  7. Testing Conditions: Lastly, remember that your performance can be affected by weather and road conditions. Cooler days can help with power due to denser air, so try to test in optimal conditions.

For further tips and shared experiences, you might want to dive into the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel and the Bullnose Ford subreddit. Both are fantastic places to get advice and connect with other enthusiasts who have similar setups.

If you have any further questions or want to explore more specifics, just let me know! Enjoy every moment behind the wheel of that beauty!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.