Category Bullnose Bill Answer

Thanks for clarifying that you have a cable-operated clutch! That definitely helps narrow things down.

Troubleshooting a Cable-Operated Clutch

Here are a few specific things to check with a cable-operated clutch since they can sometimes be the culprit when your clutch won’t disengage:

1. Cable Inspection: Start by visually inspecting the clutch cable for fraying or damage. If it looks worn, it may need to be replaced.

2. Adjustment: Make sure the cable is adjusted correctly. There should be a little slack when the pedal is at rest. If it’s too tight, it might not allow the clutch to disengage fully.

3. Clutch Pedal Linkage: Check the linkage and pivot points for any wear or binding. Sometimes, a stuck pivot or worn bushing can make the pedal feel stiff and prevent it from moving the clutch fork properly.

4. Clutch Fork Movement: If possible, observe the movement of the clutch fork when you press the pedal. It should move smoothly and fully disengage the clutch. If it’s not moving well, there might be an issue with the clutch fork itself or the pivot point.

Replacement Parts

If you determine that the cable or other components are worn and need replacing, here’s what you’ll typically need:

• Clutch Cable: Make sure to specify that you’re looking for a clutch cable for a 1979 Ford Bronco with a cable-operated clutch. Brands like Dorman or Spectre often have good options.

• Clutch Kit: As mentioned earlier, for the clutch kit, you’ll still be looking for the standard 10.5-inch kit compatible with your T-18 transmission. The clutch kit will include the disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing.

Installation and Resources

If you’re planning to do the work yourself, be sure to refer to a repair manual for torque specifications and procedures, especially for installing the new clutch components. While the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel might focus on the Bullnose Fords, they often cover basic mechanical principles that can be very helpful for similar tasks.

Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have more questions or need assistance with anything else! I’m here to help you get that Bronco back on the road!

Got it! If the clutch fork isn’t moving enough to disengage the clutch, that’s definitely something we need to address. Let’s go through a few potential causes and solutions:

Possible Causes for Insufficient Clutch Fork Movement

1. Worn Clutch Cable: If the cable is frayed or stretched, it may not be pulling the clutch fork far enough. Replacing the cable could solve the issue.

2. Cable Adjustment: If the cable is too tight or not adjusted correctly, it can prevent the fork from moving fully. Check the adjustment and ensure there’s some slack when the pedal is at rest.

3. Clutch Fork Pivot Point: The pivot point where the clutch fork attaches can sometimes get gummed up or rusty. Cleaning and lubricating the pivot point may help it move more freely.

4. Clutch Fork Wear or Damage: Inspect the clutch fork for any signs of bending or wear. If it’s not in good condition, it may need to be replaced.

5. Clutch Disc Binding: If the clutch disc is binding against the flywheel or pressure plate, it can prevent disengagement. This could happen if the disc is worn unevenly or if there’s debris or rust inside the bell housing.

6. Throwout Bearing Issues: If the throwout bearing is worn or damaged, it may not be applying sufficient pressure to the clutch. Inspecting and replacing it may be necessary.

What to Do Next

1. Inspect the Cable: If you haven’t already, check the cable for wear or fraying. If you find any issues, replacing the cable should be your first step.

2. Adjust the Cable: If the cable looks good, try adjusting it to ensure there is enough free play.

3. Check the Fork and Pivot: Remove the inspection cover (if applicable) and see if the clutch fork moves freely. Lubricate the pivot point and check for any bends or breaks.

4. Examine the Throwout Bearing: If you’re pulling the clutch to check the other components, it’s a good idea to inspect the throwout bearing too.

Community Resources

You might also find additional insights from fellow Bronco enthusiasts on the Bullnose Ford subreddit or forums like the F150 Forum. Sometimes, sharing experiences with others can lead to finding a solution you might not have considered.

If you have any more questions or need further guidance as you work through this, feel free to reach out! I’m here to help you get that clutch sorted out!

Great question! The 351 Windsor and 351 Cleveland engines have different flywheel designs, and they are not directly interchangeable. Here are some key points to keep in mind:

Differences Between the Flywheels

1. Bolt Pattern: The bolt pattern on the crankshafts is different between the two engines. The 351 Windsor uses a 28-ounce imbalance flywheel, while the 351 Cleveland uses a 50-ounce imbalance flywheel, contributing to the differences.

2. Diameter and Tooth Count: The flywheels also vary in diameter and tooth count depending on the starter used. This means that even if you were able to mechanically fit them, they may not work properly with your starter.

3. Starter Compatibility: Each engine type uses different starters, so even if you were to find a way to fit a Cleveland flywheel onto a Windsor, you’d likely run into issues with the starter engagement.

Conclusion

In short, you cannot use a 351 Windsor flywheel on a 351 Cleveland or vice versa. If you’re working on a swap or needing to replace a flywheel, it’s essential to use the correct one for your specific engine model.

If you have more questions about your project or need further assistance, feel free to ask! I’m here to help!

It sounds like you’re dealing with a potential mismatch in pressure plate specifications, which can lead to issues with clutch engagement and disengagement. Let’s break down what you’re seeing and what you can do about it.

Understanding the Measurement

The distance from the clutch fingers to the engine mount surface is critical for proper clutch operation. If your new pressure plate measures 0.40 inches less than the original, here are some potential implications:

1. Engagement Issues: A pressure plate that is shorter could lead to incomplete disengagement of the clutch, making it difficult to shift gears.

2. Clutch Travel: If the pressure plate is not allowing enough travel for the clutch disc to disengage, it might lead to grinding gears or difficulty in shifting.

3. Clutch Fork Movement: A significant difference in pressure plate height may not allow the clutch fork to move properly, preventing full disengagement.

What to Do Next

1. Verify Specifications: Double-check the specifications for both the original and new pressure plates. Make sure they are designed for the same clutch disc and setup.

2. Check Compatibility: Ensure that the new pressure plate is compatible with your 351 Windsor setup. Sometimes, parts that seem interchangeable might have small differences that can lead to issues.

3. Return or Exchange: If you find that the new pressure plate is indeed significantly different and incompatible, it may be best to return or exchange it for one that matches the original specifications.

4. Installation Inspection: If you’ve already installed it, consider removing it and inspecting both the clutch disc and the pressure plate for any wear or damage that might affect the fit.

Community Insights

For more tailored experiences regarding pressure plate measurements and compatibility, checking in on forums like the F150 Forum or the Bullnose Ford subreddit can provide insights from fellow enthusiasts who may have encountered similar situations.

If you have any more questions or need further clarification on this, feel free to ask! I’m here to help get your clutch situation sorted out!

When it comes to choosing a clutch pressure plate for your 351 Windsor, you’ve got several great options depending on your driving style and needs. Here’s a breakdown of some popular choices:

Standard Pressure Plates

1. LUK: Known for their durability and reliability, LUK pressure plates are a solid choice for a standard replacement. They offer good performance for everyday driving.

2. Exedy: Another reputable brand, Exedy offers OEM-quality pressure plates that work well for stock applications.

Performance Pressure Plates

If you’re looking for something that can handle more power or provide a firmer feel, consider these options:

1. Centerforce: Their pressure plates are known for providing increased clamping force, making them suitable for performance applications. The Centerforce II is particularly popular among enthusiasts for its balance of performance and drivability.

2. Spec Clutch: Spec offers various pressure plates that are designed for different performance levels. Their Stage 1 and Stage 2 pressure plates provide increased clamping force without sacrificing too much drivability.

3. McLeod Racing: McLeod pressure plates are respected in the performance community. They offer options that cater to both street and strip applications, providing solid performance under high torque.

Heavy-Duty Options

If you’re planning to tow or engage in heavy-duty tasks with your Windsor:

1. Valair Clutch: Valair specializes in heavy-duty clutches and pressure plates, designed to handle increased loads and provide excellent performance.

2. RAM Clutches: RAM offers heavy-duty pressure plates that can withstand the rigors of towing and performance driving.

Where to Buy

You can find these pressure plates at local auto parts stores or online retailers like Summit Racing, RockAuto, or even Amazon. Just make sure to specify that you’re looking for a pressure plate for a 351 Windsor engine.

Final Thoughts

When selecting a pressure plate, consider your vehicle’s use. Daily driving may not require the same setup as a performance or towing application. Always check for compatibility with your existing clutch disc and other components.

If you have any more questions about your setup or need further guidance, feel free to reach out! I’m here to help you make the right choice for your 351 Windsor!

Great question! When it comes to finding a donor vehicle for a serpentine swap on your 351W, you want to look for trucks or vans from the late ’80s to early ’90s. Here are some recommended donor vehicles:

Best Donor Vehicles

1. Ford F-150 (1987-1996): These trucks often came with the 5.0L or 5.8L engines, which are similar to the 351W. They typically have compatible serpentine setups.

2. Ford Bronco (1987-1996): Like the F-150, the Bronco from this era will have a similar engine setup and can provide you with the serpentine belt system you need.

3. Ford Explorer (1991-1994): The V8 Explorers can also have compatible hardware, especially if you’re looking for a more compact setup.

4. Ford Expedition (1997 onward): If you’re looking for something newer, the Expedition can provide a modern serpentine setup, though modifications may be needed to fit in the Bullnose.

Where to Find Donor Vehicles

• Local Junkyards: Check out your local auto salvage yards. They can be a goldmine for donor parts. Bring a good list and take your time to find what you need.

• Online Marketplaces: Websites like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and OfferUp often have listings for older vehicles being sold for parts. You can often negotiate a good deal.

• Classic Car Shows: Attend local car shows or swap meets. You might find someone with a parts truck or get leads on where to find one.

• Community Forums: Don’t forget to check the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford. The community there is helpful and might share leads or even have parts available.

Tips for Buying

• Inspect the Donor Vehicle: If possible, inspect the donor vehicle before buying. Look for signs of wear and check the condition of the serpentine components.

• Ask About History: Try to find out how well the vehicle was maintained. A well-kept truck will have better parts for your swap.

Swapping to a serpentine setup can be a rewarding project, and with the right donor, you’ll be well on your way to improving your Bullnose. If you have more questions about the swap or need tips along the way, just let me know!

Yes, Mustang brackets can indeed work for your serpentine swap on the 351W! In fact, using brackets from a late-model Mustang can be a great way to achieve a clean installation, but there are a few things to keep in mind:

Compatibility

1. Engine Year: Make sure the Mustang brackets you’re considering come from a car with the same engine configuration. For example, 5.0L Mustangs from the late ’80s to early ’90s will have similar setups.

2. Belt Alignment: Brackets from Mustangs are designed to work with their specific accessory configurations, so you’ll need to ensure that the alignment matches your setup on the Bullnose. This is crucial for proper belt tension and performance.

Modifications

3. Fabrication: You may need to do a bit of fabrication to make the Mustang brackets fit your Bullnose. Custom brackets or spacers might be necessary to get everything aligned properly.

4. Accessory Compatibility: Keep in mind that the accessories (like the alternator and power steering pump) from the Mustang may differ from what you had on your Bullnose. You may need to swap out some components to ensure everything works smoothly.

Benefits

5. Weight and Aesthetics: Mustang brackets are often lighter and can provide a more polished look in your engine bay, which is a nice bonus!

Resources

For a more detailed overview and tips on using Mustang brackets, you might want to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They often dive into modifications and can provide some visual guidance that’s super helpful.

Overall, using Mustang brackets can be a great choice for your serpentine swap. Just be prepared for some trial and error in terms of fitting and alignment. If you run into any hiccups, feel free to ask for more advice! Happy wrenching!

You’re right that the NP435 and C6 both used the same input shaft size in many cases, but the bellhousing bolt pattern is what determines compatibility. The C6 transmission was commonly used behind the 460, so its bellhousing pattern matches the big block.

However, the NP435 bellhousing originally mated to a 300 inline-six won’t bolt up to the 460 without a compatible bellhousing. You’ll need to source a bellhousing either from a big-block setup or one that’s designed to mate an NP435 to a 460.

Here’s a quick checklist:

• Bellhousing: Make sure you have one that fits the 460.
• Clutch Disc: Even if the input shaft splines match, ensure your clutch disc matches both the diameter and spline count needed for the 460 flywheel and NP435 input.
• Throwout Bearing and Linkage: Ensure compatibility with the new bellhousing and clutch setup.

Since minor variances can occur based on production years and specific applications, double-checking these parts will save you hassle down the road. Always good to measure twice and swap once! If you’ve got more questions, just let me know.

Great question! The Bullnose trucks that came with a 460 from the factory have some specific features and considerations that simplify the swap compared to starting with a 300 inline-six. Here’s a breakdown:

Factory 460 Setup

• Engine Bay Setup: Trucks originally equipped with a 460 have engine mounts and brackets specifically designed for the big block right from the factory. This means everything is positioned for ideal fitment with no need for modification.

• Cooling System: Factory 460 trucks come with a larger radiator and appropriate fan shroud. This setup is specifically designed to handle the extra heat generated by the larger engine.

• Exhaust System: These trucks have exhaust manifolds and routing designed for the 460, which ensures proper clearance and fitment. Custom exhaust work is usually unnecessary.

• Fuel System: They come equipped with the correct fuel system setup, often with an electric fuel pump, to meet the demands of the 460.

• Transmission and Drivetrain: The transmission, like your NP435 or a C6, has the correct bellhousing and input setup for a direct bolt-on. Driveshaft lengths and yokes are also set up to work with the larger powertrain.

Differences When Starting with a 300 Inline-Six

• Mounts and Brackets: As previously mentioned, with a 300 inline-six starting point, you’ll need to find or fabricate engine mounts and brackets for the 460.

• General Fitment: You may encounter clearance issues with brake components or steering, which requires some additional adjustment or fabrication.

• Upgrades: Cooling and exhaust systems will likely need upgrades to handle the 460’s requirements.

Other Considerations

• Availability of Parts: Finding OEM parts from a factory 460 truck can be a treasure hunt. Junkyards or forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit can be valuable resources.

• Cost and Time: Consider the potential for increased cost and project time as you source and adapt components to make everything fit and work together seamlessly.

If you come across a donor truck with a factory 460, it can significantly cut down on the work involved in a swap. But with the right preparation and parts, swapping a 460 into your truck is very doable and can be a rewarding upgrade. Keep the questions coming if you need more info!

Looks like that’s a variation of something we’ve already covered. The change in tire size or setup won’t significantly affect the answer. Let’s dig into a new topic! If there’s something else you’d like to explore, feel free to ask.

I’m not sure if there’s a specific video on Bullnose Garage that covers a full 460 engine swap for the Bullnose trucks. However, I’d recommend checking out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for any related content, as they often cover engine swaps and similar projects. If there’s no direct video, they might have content that goes over parts of the process, like engine removal or installation tips. It’s definitely worth a look. If you have more questions or need further guidance, just let me know!

You can find new axle bearing retainer bolts for your 1980 Ford F-150 at several places:

1. Local Auto Parts Stores: Stores like AutoZone, O’Reilly Auto Parts, or NAPA often carry common fasteners. Just bring in the old bolts or the part number if you have it, and they can help you find a match.

2. Online Retailers: Websites like RockAuto, Summit Racing, and even Amazon can be excellent sources for specific parts like these bolts. Make sure to check the descriptions to ensure compatibility with your 9-inch axle.

3. Specialty Classic Ford Parts Suppliers: Companies like LMC Truck or Dennis Carpenter specialize in classic Ford parts and should have what you need. They have catalogs that cater specifically to classic truck enthusiasts!

4. Ford Dealerships: If you’re looking for original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts, your local Ford dealer can sometimes order them for you, although it might be pricier than other options.

Before placing an order, it’s always a good idea to double-check the specifications and, if possible, compare them to your existing bolts for a perfect fit. Happy shopping! If you need help with anything else, just let me know!

Swapping a C6 transmission for a ZF5 in your 1982 Ford Bronco with a 351W is a great way to enhance your truck’s performance, especially if you’re looking for better gear ratios and improved drivability. Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll need to consider for this swap:

Parts and Equipment Required

1. ZF5 Transmission:

   • Make sure to source a ZF5 that’s compatible with the 351W. Check for one that includes the transmission harness and any necessary adapters.

2. NP208 Transfer Case:

   • You’ll need the NP208 transfer case, which is a great choice for 4WD. Be sure to get the correct adapter for the ZF5.

3. Adapter Plate:

   • An adapter plate will be required to connect the ZF5 to the NP208. These can often be found from specialty suppliers or online.

4. Transmission Mount:

   • The ZF5 will require a different transmission mount, so be sure to grab one that fits.

5. Driveshafts:

   • You may need to modify your existing driveshafts or get new ones to accommodate the different lengths and locations of the ZF5 and NP208.

6. Clutch Assembly:

   • Since you’re moving to a manual transmission, a new clutch kit, flywheel, and associated hardware will be necessary.

7. Pedal Assembly:

   • You’ll need a clutch pedal assembly, as the C6 is an automatic and the ZF5 is a manual.

8. Wiring and Linkage:

   • Make sure to check the wiring harness for compatibility. You might need to do some modifications for the new transmission. Also, ensure that the shifter linkage will work with the ZF5.

9. Crossmember:

   • You may need to modify or replace your existing crossmember to accommodate the new setup.

Tools Needed

• Basic hand tools (sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers)
• Transmission jack
• Torque wrench
• Engine hoist (optional, but helpful)

Step-by-Step Overview

1. Preparation:

   • Disconnect the battery and remove the C6 transmission and transfer case. Make sure to drain fluids and disconnect any wiring.

2. Install Clutch Components:

   • Install the clutch assembly and flywheel before the ZF5 is mounted.

3. Mount the ZF5:

   • Position the ZF5 onto the engine and secure it with the appropriate bolts.

4. Connect the NP208:

   • Attach the NP208 transfer case using the adapter plate you’ve sourced.

5. Modify Driveshafts:

   • Adjust and install the driveshafts to ensure proper alignment.

6. Install Pedal Assembly:

   • Install the clutch pedal assembly and modify the wiring harness as needed.

7. Final Checks:

   • Ensure all connections are secure, and fill all fluids before starting the vehicle.

Tips

• Documentation: Keep the service manuals handy for both the Bronco and the ZF5; they’ll help guide you through the swap.
• Community Resources: For additional insights and experiences, check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit or forums like Gary’s Garagemahal to see if anyone else has tackled a similar swap.
• Take Your Time: This swap can be quite involved, so take your time and double-check everything.

This is a comprehensive project, but with some patience and the right resources, you’ll have a Bronco that’s ready for any adventure! If you have any specific questions or need more details on a part of the process, feel free to ask!