Category How To

Armorpoxy in my garage

My whole life I’ve wanted my own garage… my own ‘Man Cave’ that I can use to do the real work of engine modding and grease monkeying. Once I finally got one, it took years for me to work up the courage, funding, and sheer will to mold my once dingy and dusty garage into my man cave paradise. One of the questions I was asking myself was if it was worth it to spend the extra money on an expensive garage floor coating, or if something from a big box store would be ‘good enough.’ I decided to spend the dough and do it right (or so I thought). Check out my review of Armorpoxy below to find out if I made the right choice.

Watch the related video on YouTube:

Armorpoxy Review! Is Expensive Garage Floor Epoxy Worth It? Learn What I Would've Done Differently.

Part of the The Garage series.

Part of the Bullnose Garage Reviews series.

The Epoxy Choice: Armorpoxy

By now you know that the garage floor product I chose is Armorpoxy (find it here: https://amzn.to/3LQIRWR). There were several options, but it seemed to have some of the best customer service, came in the color I wanted, and is 100% solids. It’s a true 100% solids epoxy coating, and yes, it wasn’t cheap. But was it worth the cost? Let’s find out.

Options and Considerations

When it comes to garage floors, you have a bunch of options. You could leave the concrete as-is, especially if you’re in a commercial setting or dealing with heavy traffic. However, for a residential garage, where aesthetics and durability matter, a coating might be worth considering. Here’s a quick rundown of your options:

  • Floor Paint: Cheap and easy but doesn’t last long. It peels and shows wear after a few years.
  • Epoxy: Comes in various grades. The budget options are better than paint but may not last long under heavy use.
  • High-End Epoxy or Polyurea: More durable and resistant to chemicals but costs more.

I chose a higher end epoxy because I wanted something tough and long-lasting, especially since I’ll be working on engines and dealing with chemicals in the garage. I’ve used big box store garage floor coatings in the past and, while they look nice for a bit, they don’t tend to last long in a garage that gets any real work… including driving in and out with a car or truck. My goal for this was to be ‘one and done’. Spend the money up front, do the hard work, and then enjoy it for basically forever.

Prep Work

Prep is critical. My floor had old paint, so I had to strip it off. I rented a floor buffer with a diamond brush to remove the paint, which was a dusty, messy job. A cloud of dust pretty much coated my entire neighborhood, and I had dust in every single pore of my body. Make sure you wear proper protection, including a mask and ear protection.

Next, I filled cracks with PC Concrete (found here: https://amzn.to/3ygFupc), which is claimed to be stronger than concrete itself. For any low spots or divots, I used the same product to level them out. 4 years later the cracks in my garage floor still haven’t resurfaced, but there were a couple of places in front of the garage, exposed to the elements, were PC Concrete separated from the floor and fell out of the cracks. So, if you’re going to use it and then cover it with another product I think it will last a long time. If you’re planning on keeping it uncovered out in the elements I might look elsewhere.

Application Process

Day 1: Primer

  • Applied the primer. It went on faster than I expected but was tough to handle due to the fumes. Proper ventilation is crucial. I learned this the hard way by ending up feeling quite unwell from the fumes. Always use a respirator. This was basically just like rolling on a thick paint.

Day 2: Epoxy and Flakes

  • Applied the epoxy and flakes with the help of my father-in-law. The epoxy application was straightforward, but throwing the flakes was tricky. My spiky shoes kept slipping, which made the process more challenging. The epoxy was tacky for a while, and I had to wait before applying the top coat. When applying, do so in sections. I was fortunate to have my father-in-law’s help so he could mix the batches of the two-part epoxy while I used a squeegee to lay it down.

Final Touches: Top Coat

  • Applied the top coat, which was clear and hard to manage since you can’t see where you’ve applied it. This led to some unevenness and beading in places, which I suspect was due to a mix of technique and product issues. It may have also had something to do with not allowing the coat to dry before applying it. In any case, pay close attention to where you’ve been and make a plan before you start, even if you need to section things off.

Final Thoughts

So, was it worth it? Absolutely. Here’s why:

  • Durability: It’s incredibly tough. I’ve dropped heavy items and spilled chemicals with no damage to the floor.
  • Aesthetics: It looks great. Friends and family have been impressed with the results.
  • Value: Despite some issues with shipping and packaging, I believe the end result justifies the investment.

The Bad

  • Shipping and Packaging: The product arrived in beat-up cans, and I didn’t get the mixing buckets that were advertised.
  • Top Coat Application: The clear coat was challenging to apply and led to some beading and unevenness. This might be partly my fault, but it’s worth noting for future DIYers.

Takeaways

  1. Prepare Thoroughly: Proper prep work is key. Make sure your floor is clean and well-prepped.
  2. Ventilate: The fumes from the products are no joke. Use proper ventilation and protective gear.
  3. Practice: If you’re using a top coat, practice your technique to avoid issues with uneven application.
    • Also practice throwing the flakes. I have one big pile in the middle of my floor that’s obvious if you look. Once the flakes are down they are down, and trying to spread them out with the squeegee or other method is pretty futile.

So there you have it. If you’re up for the challenge and want a durable, high-quality floor, a premium epoxy coating like Armorpoxy is worth it. It’s not without its challenges, but the results speak for themselves. 4 years later and it looks as good as the day I put it on. We’ve done several garage sales in the garage and I always get a load of folks who compliment me on the floor. I even had one person who does it professionally ask me, half-jokingly, if I wanted a job.

If you want a more detailed Armorpoxy review or overview then watch my video on YouTube below.

If you want more information on my Garage, check it out: My Dream Garage

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Today, we’re diving into the world of DIY workbenches, because who needs those overpriced, store-bought ones anyway? Let’s get started!


Step 1: Plan Your Masterpiece

Ever since I completed my garage renovation, I’ve had this big empty space begging for a workbench. After scouring the internet and discovering that decent workbenches cost more than my first car, I decided to build my own. The goal? A beast of a workbench that can handle anything from a transmission rebuild to refurbishing a truck dash. Oh, and it had to be budget-friendly. Challenge accepted!

Watch the related video on YouTube:

Heavy Duty DIY Garage Workbench with Adjustable Legs and Casters – No Special Tools!

Part of the The Garage series.

Step 2: Gather Materials (and Patience)

Here’s what you’ll need for this $250 wonder:

Step 3: Construct the Ultimate Tabletop

I started by cutting my plywood. Pro tip: Have someone else cut it, then complain when it’s not perfect. Just kidding! Sort of. The plywood pieces weren’t exact, but that’s okay because perfection is overrated. I used three layers of 3/4 inch plywood, glued (Titebond III Wood Glue) and screwed (1 1/4 Coarse Drywall Screws) together to create a top thick enough to withstand an apocalypse.

Step 4: Add the Sacrificial Layer

I topped the plywood with a 1/4 inch hardboard. Why? Because it’s cheap and easily replaceable. Glue it, screw it, and feel accomplished because now you have a workbench top that’s basically indestructible.

Step 5: Trim and Paint

For the edges, I used poplar trim, and for the finish, I opted for a bed liner. Not only does it sound cool, but it’s also super durable. I learned the hard way that the spray can version loves to clog. After a few rounds with brake cleaner and some colorful language, I managed to get it all painted. Make sure to use a good primer first (like this one).

Step 6: Attach the Legs (and Casters for Mobility)

I got these snazzy adjustable legs from Amazon (perfect for customizing the height). Slap some heavy-duty casters on there (these are great) so you can roll your workbench around like a boss. Drill, screw (Lag Screws, Construction Screws), and voila! You’ve got a mobile, adjustable workbench.

Step 7: Final Touches

For the finishing touches, I added a back piece to prevent screws and other small parts from escaping. I also installed a power strip (this one works well) and some lights (here’s the link) because a well-lit workbench is a happy workbench.


The Grand Reveal

So there you have it, folks. A heavy-duty, DIY workbench that didn’t break the bank and can handle whatever you throw at it. Plus, it’s got that homemade charm you just can’t buy.

Thanks for joining me on this journey. If you enjoyed this project (or just enjoyed laughing at my struggles), stay tuned for more DIY adventures here at Bullnose Garage. Until next time, keep those wrenches turning and your spirits high!

Introduction

Hey folks, Ed here! Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today, we’re stepping away from the Bullnose and working on my trusty 2007 Ford F-150. After years of faithful service, the headlights had become hazy and cloudy, making my truck look tired. But worry not! I’m here to show you a simple, effective, and budget-friendly way to restore those headlights using just sandpaper and 2K clear coat. Let’s dive in and give your vehicle’s headlights a fresh, new look!

What You’ll Need For Proper Headlight Restoration

Before we get started, here’s what you’ll need for this project:

  • 2K Clear CoatGet it here
  • SandpaperGet it here
  • Masking tape
  • Isopropyl alcohol
  • Clean cloths
  • Respirator (for safety)
  • Car wax (optional, but recommended)

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Remove the Headlights

For this generation of F-150, the headlights are pretty easy to remove. Trust me, taking them off the truck makes this job a whole lot easier. So, start by popping those bad boys off and set them up on a stable work surface.

Step 2: Sanding the Headlights

The key to a great finish is in the prep work. Here’s how to do it:

  1. Start with 220 Grit Sandpaper:
    • This is pretty aggressive for a headlight, but it’ll help remove all the gunk and scratches.
    • Use a swirling motion to sand down the headlight, then switch to a horizontal motion to get rid of swirl marks.
  2. Move to 400 Grit Sandpaper:
    • Repeat the process: swirl, then horizontal.
  3. Then Use 600 Grit Sandpaper:
    • Again, swirl and then horizontal.
  4. Finish with 2000 Grit Sandpaper:
    • This will give you a super smooth surface ready for the clear coat.

Step 3: Clean and Mask

Once you’ve sanded the headlights to a smooth finish:

  • Clean them thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol to remove any dust and oils.
  • Mask off the areas around the headlights to avoid getting clear coat on your truck’s paint.

Step 4: Apply the 2K Clear Coat

Now for the magic touch! But first, safety first:

  • Wear a respirator when working with 2K clear coat. The stuff is potent and not great for your lungs.

To apply:

  1. Shake the can well.
  2. Apply the clear coat in light, even coats. Two to three coats should be sufficient.
  3. Allow each coat to dry for about 10 minutes before applying the next.

Step 5: Let It Cure

After applying the final coat, let the headlights cure for 24-48 hours. This waiting period ensures the clear coat hardens properly, giving you a durable finish.

Step 6: Optional – Wax the Headlights

To add an extra layer of protection and a bit more shine:

  1. Use any car wax you have on hand. I used Maguire’s Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax.
  2. Apply the wax to a clean cloth and spread it over the headlights.
  3. Let it sit for a bit, then buff it off.

The Final Product

And there you have it! Your headlights should now look almost brand new. Sure, you might see a bit of orange peel up close, but from a few feet away, they look fantastic. Plus, this clear coat should last the lifetime of your truck, keeping those headlights bright and clear.

Check Out My Other Projects

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Buying from any Amazon links posted here will help out the Channel. Thank you!


With these simple steps, you’ll have your vehicle’s headlights looking great in no time. Plus, you’ll save a ton of money doing it yourself. Happy wrenching!