Tag 1986 Ford F150

Good to hear from you again, Paul — and nice work keeping an all-original 1986 F‑150 alive. I can’t take phone calls (no personal number to give), but I’ll walk you through what to look for, where to source the parts, and what questions to ask your mechanic so you don’t end up with wrong fasteners. If you want faster one-on-one help, you can look at Bullnose Garage Pro here: https://bullnosegarage.com/need-help-with-an-old-ford-ask-bullnose-bill-pro/. Also, the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) can be useful for specific part photos and leads.

Quick summary of what you asked for and how to approach each item

• Intake manifold bolts (5 same + 1 oddball center torque/drive bolt)
• Motor mount nuts
• Torque converter nuts (or bolts)
• Smog pump (smog pump assembly)
• Transmission bolts (bellhousing / torque converter / mounting)
• A/C bracket

Important: always confirm thread size/length and grade before installing. If you can take photos or measure one of the remaining bolts (diameter and thread pitch, length), I can dial in exact specs and part numbers.

Detailed guidance and where to find each item

1) Intake manifold bolts (5 same + 1 center / drive bolt)

• On 1986 302 EFI (TBI/EEC‑IV) setups you’ll commonly find a set of manifold bolts plus one longer/unique bolt in the valley or center that fastens a bracket or the throttle body/drive bracket. The “odd” bolt is usually different length or shoulder style.
• What to do: Pull any remaining bolts and measure diameter (inches or mm), thread pitch (TPI or metric), and length from under head to end. Photograph the bolt head (hex size) and the manifold area where it goes.
• Where to buy: RockAuto and Ford OEM parts will sell intake bolt kits or individual bolts. Salvage yards are great for original bolts if you want factory finish. Local hardware/fastener houses (McMaster-Carr) can supply correct grade bolts if you match size/length and use proper washers.
• Pro tip: use OEM-style washers and don’t over-torque. If you can send me the bolt measurements or a close photo, I’ll tell you exact thread pitch and recommended grade.

2) Motor mount nuts

• Motor mount fasteners vary by mount (frame or crossmember side). On the 80–86 Bullnose, mounts use a mix of hex nuts and studs.
• What to do: Photograph the mount and remaining hardware or measure stud diameter and thread pitch. Note whether mounts use conical (crush) washers or locking nuts.
• Where to buy: OEM parts houses, NAPA/AutoZone (they often stock replacement mount bolt kits), or salvage yards. For strength use Grade 8 (SAE) or 10.9 (metric) for engine mounts; if you buy hardware from a local fastener shop, ask for high‑tensile bolts and locknuts.

3) Torque converter nuts

• Your mechanic is likely right: torque converter fasteners are usually nuts (often flange nuts on studs) holding converter to flexplate. They can also be bolts depending on flywheel/flexplate.
• What to do: Confirm whether the flexplate has studs (studded converter) or tapped holes. If studs, you need the correct flange nuts; if tapped holes, use the correct bolts (grade/length).
• Where to buy: Transmission shops, Ford parts, or online (RockAuto, Summit Racing). If you remove one nut/bolt you can take it to a parts store to match.
• Pro tip: use new nuts and Loctite or threadlocker on the mating threads, and torque to the factory spec. If you want, tell me whether the converter uses studs or bolts and I’ll give torque spec and thread size.

4) Smog pump (air pump)

• Smog pump assemblies for 1986 TBI 302 are available used (junkyard/NOS) or sometimes repro. They’re bulky but common on ’80s Ford engines.
• Where to buy: Pick-n-pull / LKQ / local scrap yards; online through RockAuto or eBay for used/NOS units. If you don’t need it functioning, some people buy the pump only for the bracketry and plumbing.
• Considerations: if you’re trying to keep it all original for emissions or registration reasons, keep the pump and hoses intact. If you plan to delete it, check local emissions rules first.

5) Transmission bolts (bellhousing, crossmember, mount bolts)

• There are three groups: bellhousing-to-engine bolts, trans-to-crossmember bolts, and trans mount fasteners. Sizes and lengths vary by transmission (C4, AOD, C6, etc.). You mentioned OD button — that makes me think AOD or automatic with overdrive button (but 1986 could also be E4OD depending on axle). Confirm the transmission model.
• What to do: confirm transmission model (stamped tag or serial), then match bolt kits. If you don’t know, bring a picture of bellhousing bolt pattern and the area where bolts go.
• Where to buy: Transmission rebuild shops, RockAuto, and fastener houses. A bellhousing bolt kit is common in salvage yards with the transmission.

6) A/C bracket

• The A/C compressor bracket and its bolts are pretty specific. If the original compressor/bracket were removed, look for the bracket on eBay, RockAuto, or salvage yards.
• Where to buy: used bracket + bolt set from salvage; some aftermarket brackets exist for common compressor swaps.
• Pro tip: if you’re reinstalling original A/C, it’s easier to source the original bracket with compressor attached from a donor truck.

General sourcing strategy (step-by-step)

1. Identify exactly what you have and what’s missing: take clear photos of engine valley, front of engine, driver/passenger motor mount areas, bellhousing, and the flexplate/converter area. Include close-up shots of holes/threads where hardware belongs.
2. Note your transmission model (stamp/tag) and whether converter uses studs or bolts.
3. Measure one existing bolt if possible (diameter, thread pitch, length, head size). If you don’t have any left, photos will still help.
4. Try salvage yards first (LKQ, Pick-n-Pull) for originality and low cost. Search by VIN or engine code when possible.
5. Use RockAuto, O’Reilly, NAPA, and McMaster-Carr for replacement fasteners. Ford OEM dealers can source new bolts but will be pricier.
6. If you need NOS/original parts (smog pump, AC bracket), check eBay, Facebook Marketplace, and yard site listings. Give preference to sellers who post part numbers or good photos.
7. Keep safety in mind — don’t reuse torque converter nuts or critical mount bolts if they look stretched or damaged. Buy new high-tensile hardware for engine/transmission mounting.

How I can help next

• Send me photos of the engine bay (intake valley, timing cover/front where A/C/alternator mount, motor mounts, flexplate area). That’ll let me identify the “oddball” bolt and give exact thread sizes and torque specs.
• Tell me your transmission model (AOD? C6? C4? E4OD?), or post a photo of the trans tag. I’ll list the exact bellhousing and converter fasteners and proper torque values.
• If you want, I’ll write up a shopping list with suggested part numbers and links (I can’t buy for you, but I’ll point to likely sources).

A couple of practical tips while you hunt:

• Don’t swap in random bolts. Wrong thread pitch or insufficient grade will ruin a stud or flexplate and cost you more to fix.
• For engine/transmission mounts and torque converter hardware, use new hardware rated for engine loads (Grade 8 or equivalent). For intake bolts you can use properly rated bolts and correct washer/torque.
• Keep bolts organized — label bags for each location as you remove them. That saves headaches on reassembly.

Privacy note

• I won’t call or message you at the number you gave. Don’t post personal contact info in public threads. We’ll keep this work going here.

If you want to start now, post those photos (intake valley, motor mounts, flexplate area, and a shot of the missing bolt holes). I’ll ID the oddball bolt, list the sizes/grades you need, and point you to exact places to buy them.

Let’s dig into this fuel issue with your ’86 F-150. It sounds like you’re dealing with a fuel delivery problem. Here are a few steps to troubleshoot and hopefully resolve it:

Check Fuel Pressure

1. Fuel Pressure Test:

   • Use a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure at the fuel rail. The 5.0 EFI should have around 35-45 psi.
   • If the pressure is low, it might be a failing fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter.

2. Fuel Pump:

   • Listen for the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to the "ON" position. If you don’t hear it, the pump may be failing or there could be an electrical issue.

Inspect Fuel System Components

1. Fuel Filter:

   • Make sure your fuel filter isn’t clogged. A blocked filter will restrict fuel flow to the engine.

2. Fuel Pump Relay:

   • Check the fuel pump relay and its connections. A faulty relay can prevent power from reaching the pump.

3. Inertia Switch:

   • Ensure the inertia switch hasn’t been tripped. This switch cuts off fuel in the event of a collision but can sometimes trip accidentally.

Check Air and Idle Control

1. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC):

   • A faulty IAC valve can cause high idle and stalling. Clean or replace it if needed.

2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS):

   • If the TPS is out of adjustment or faulty, it can cause stalling when you hit the gas. Test it with a multimeter to ensure proper operation.

Electrical and Sensor Checks

1. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor:

   • Make sure the MAF sensor is clean and functioning properly. A dirty or defective MAF can cause idle and throttle issues.

2. Engine Control Unit (ECU):

   • Consider checking for any stored trouble codes, even if the Check Engine Light isn’t on. This might give you clues.

Pro Tips

• Fuel Quality: Ensure the fuel is fresh and not contaminated with water or debris.
• Vacuum Leaks: Inspect for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and hoses, as these can affect idle and throttle response.

If you go through these steps and still have issues, there could be something more specific tied to the electrical system or the ECU. Keep me posted on what you find!

Got it. Since you’ve got new fuel pumps and filters, let’s focus on some other potential culprits:

Electrical and Sensor Focus

1. Fuel Pump Relay and Wiring:

   • Double-check the relay and associated wiring for any corrosion or loose connections.

2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS):

   • Test the TPS with a multimeter. It should have a smooth change in voltage as you move the throttle.

3. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC):

   • Clean the IAC valve. If it’s sticking, it can cause idle and stalling issues.

Fuel System Pressure Check

• Pressure Regulator:
  • Ensure the fuel pressure regulator isn’t leaking or faulty. Check the vacuum line attached to it for fuel presence, indicating a diaphragm issue.

Air Intake and Sensors

1. MAF Sensor:

   • Ensure the MAF sensor is clean. Use MAF cleaner to avoid damaging it.

2. Check for Vacuum Leaks:

   • Inspect all hoses and the intake manifold for leaks with a smoke test or carb cleaner spray.

ECU and Codes

• Diagnostic Scan:
  • Even if the Check Engine Light isn’t on, use a scan tool to check for any stored codes.

Additional Thoughts

• Timing and Ignition:
  • Confirm the ignition timing is set correctly and the distributor cap and rotor aren’t worn out.

If you troubleshoot these areas and still face issues, it might be worth consulting with a local mechanic for a deeper diagnostic. Let me know how it goes!

When your engine fires with starting fluid, but not otherwise, it indicates the engine is getting spark and air but insufficient fuel. Here’s why that might happen:

Potential Causes

1. Insufficient Fuel Delivery:

   • Even with new pumps, there might be an obstruction or a weak electrical supply affecting the pump’s performance.

2. Fuel Pressure Regulator:

   • A faulty regulator might be providing insufficient pressure, preventing fuel from reaching the injectors effectively.

3. Injectors Not Firing:

   • The injectors might not be getting the signal to fire. This could be a wiring issue, a blown fuse, or a problem with the Engine Control Unit (ECU).

What to Check Next

1. Injector Pulse:

   • Use a noid light to check if the injectors are getting a pulse. If not, it’s likely an electrical or ECU issue.

2. Fuel Pressure:

   • Even with new components, verify that the pressure at the fuel rail meets specifications.

3. ECU and Electrical Connections:

   • Ensure all related electrical connectors are secure, with no corrosion or damage.

4. Check Grounds:

   • Poor grounding can affect fuel system components, causing erratic behavior.

By addressing these areas, you can better pinpoint the weak link in the fuel delivery system. Let me know how you progress!

Your 1986 F-150 likely doesn’t have an OBD-I port like later vehicles. Instead, it uses a self-test connector under the hood, typically near the driver’s side fender. You can use a code reader specifically for Ford vehicles from this era or perform a manual test with a test light or multimeter to read trouble codes.

Here’s how you can do it:

How to Read Codes

1. Locate the Connector:

   • Find the EEC-IV test connector under the hood.

2. Connect a Test Light:

   • Use a test light or jumper wire to connect the Self-Test Input (STI) to the Signal Return (SIG RET).

3. Turn the Key On:

   • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position without starting the engine.

4. Read the Codes:

   • Count the flashes of the Check Engine Light or test light. The flashes correspond to two-digit trouble codes.

Tips

• Code Interpretation:

  • Refer to a code list for specific meanings. There should be two sets: continuous memory codes and hard fault codes.

• Be Patient:

  • The process takes a little time, so be patient while counting the flashes.

This can help pinpoint issues that might not be immediately obvious. Let me know what codes you find!

The EEC-IV test connector on your 1986 F-150 is usually located near the driver’s side fender, close to the firewall or the brake booster. It might be covered with a plastic cap. Look for a small, rectangular connector with a couple of wires leading into it. If you’re having trouble locating it, check the area around the master cylinder or the power distribution box.

If you’re looking for the easiest diesel motor swap for your ’86 F-150 4×4, the Ford 7.3L IDI (Indirect Injection) is often considered the most straightforward option. Here’s why:

1. Ford Compatibility: Since it’s a Ford engine, you’ll have a better time with the fitment, especially concerning engine mounts and transmission compatibility.

2. Simplicity: The IDI is generally simpler to wire up compared to modern diesel engines. That means fewer headaches when it comes to integrating electronics.

3. Availability of Parts: Parts for the 7.3L IDI are fairly abundant, and there are plenty of resources and forums to help you with any issues you might encounter during the swap.

4. Torque Characteristics: It provides ample torque for a truck setup, making it suitable for towing and off-road performance.

However, if you’re considering a more modern approach, just keep in mind that engines like the Cummins 5.9L can also be relatively straightforward, but they might require more custom work and parts sourcing.

Whichever engine you choose, it’s important to plan ahead. You might want to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for some swap stories and tips. Also, the Bullnose Ford subreddit is a great place to connect with others who have done similar swaps.

Happy swapping! If you have any more questions, let me know!

Swapping a Cummins 4BT into your ’86 F-150 4×4 can be a thrilling project! The speed you can achieve with this setup will depend on several factors, like the specific gearing of your transmission and differential, tire size, and overall weight of the truck.

Generally speaking, a Cummins 4BT can produce around 105 to 130 horsepower, and with its impressive torque (around 265 lb-ft), you may find your F-150 feels pretty lively, especially for a truck!

1. Top Speed: Realistically, you might see top speeds in the range of 80 to 90 mph, depending on those aforementioned factors. However, keep in mind that the 4BT is more about torque than speed, so you may not get rocket-like acceleration but solid pulling power, especially when towing or climbing.

2. Gearing: If you have the stock gearing, it might limit your top speed a bit. However, many enthusiasts choose to regear their differentials to find a better balance between torque and speed, especially if they’re using larger tires.

3. Transmission: The transmission you pair with the 4BT will also play a significant role. A manual transmission like a Getrag 5-speed can work well, but an automatic could give you a smoother ride.

4. Weight Factors: Keep in mind that the overall weight of your truck will affect performance. If you’ve done any modifications or removed components, that could change things a bit.

Ultimately, it’s a great setup for someone looking for a rugged, capable truck! Just make sure to take it to a safe area to test out those speeds after your swap. Enjoy the journey, and if you have more questions, feel free to ask!

When it comes to 0-60 times for an ’86 F-150 4×4 equipped with a Cummins 4BT, you can expect it to be around the 8 to 12-second range depending on several factors like weight, gearing, and any additional modifications.

Here’s a bit more detail on what influences that time:

1. Torque and Power: The Cummins 4BT’s torque is significant, which can help with initial acceleration. However, with around 105-130 horsepower, it may not have the same zip as a gasoline engine.

2. Weight: The weight of your truck plays a big role in acceleration. A heavier truck will take longer to reach 60 mph, especially off the line. If you’ve stripped down some unnecessary weight, you could see better acceleration.

3. Transmission: The type of transmission can also impact your 0-60 time. A well-tuned manual or a responsive automatic can make a difference in how quickly you can shift and get moving.

4. Tires and Traction: Make sure you have tires that provide good traction, especially since you’re in a 4×4. If you’re spinning your tires, your 0-60 time will certainly suffer!

Overall, while the 4BT is great for torque and efficiency, it’s not designed for quick acceleration like a high-performance gasoline engine. However, the power it provides makes it very capable for everyday driving tasks and towing. If you have more questions or need specific advice for your build, just let me know!

With those specifics—31×10 tires, a 5.13 gear ratio, and approximately 150 horsepower from your Cummins 4BT swap—you could reasonably expect your ’86 F-150 4×4 to achieve a 0-60 mph time in the range of 8 to 10 seconds.

Here’s a breakdown of why:

1. Tire Size (31×10): These tires are a good balance for off-road capability and on-road performance. They should provide decent traction without bogging down your acceleration too much.

2. Gear Ratio (5.13): A 5.13 gear ratio is excellent for torque, which is what the 4BT excels at. This higher ratio means you can get off the line with more power, improving your 0-60 time compared to lower ratios, especially when towing or climbing.

3. Power Output (150 hp): With 150 horsepower, your truck has a decent amount of power for a diesel engine, especially with the torque characteristics of the 4BT. It won’t be a sports car, but that power will help you get moving more quickly.

4. Weight and Overall Condition: The overall weight of your truck and how well it’s tuned and maintained can also affect your acceleration. If you’ve managed to keep the weight down and ensure everything is running smoothly, you’ll see better performance.

Remember, these numbers are estimates based on typical setups, and actual performance can vary based on numerous factors, including vehicle condition, driver skill, and road conditions. It’s important to keep safety in mind when testing your truck’s limits!

If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!

With a tuned Cummins 4BT producing around 170 horsepower, 31×10 tires, and a 5.13 gear ratio, your ’86 F-150 4×4’s 0-60 mph time could drop to around 7 to 9 seconds. Here’s what makes the difference:

1. Increased Power: Boosting your power to 170 hp gives you a noticeable increase in acceleration. More horsepower means your truck can reach higher speeds more quickly, improving that 0-60 time.

2. Torque Management: The 4BT’s high torque output will still play a significant role, helping you launch more effectively off the line. Diesel engines are known for their low-end torque, which means you can get up to speed without needing to rev high.

3. Gear Ratio Advantage: Your 5.13 gear ratio helps maximize that torque, making it easier to accelerate quickly. This ratio is excellent for both off-road capability and improving on-road acceleration.

4. Tires and Weight: If you maintain the same weight and tire setup, the improved horsepower should make a noticeable difference in your 0-60 performance.

Keep in mind that these are still estimates and can vary based on many factors like vehicle weight, driver skill, and road conditions. Additionally, ensure that your truck is well-maintained and tuned properly to get the best performance out of your setup.

If you have any more questions or need tips for optimizing your truck further, feel free to ask! Happy tuning!

Adding a torque converter to your ’86 F-150 4×4 with a Cummins 4BT tuned to 170 horsepower can significantly enhance your acceleration, especially from a stop. With the right torque converter setup, you could potentially see your 0-60 mph time drop to around 6 to 8 seconds. Here’s how:

1. Improved Launch: A torque converter allows for a smoother and more effective power transfer from the engine to the transmission. This means when you accelerate, you’ll get better launch power, which is crucial for quick 0-60 times.

2. Higher Stall Speed: If you choose a torque converter with a higher stall speed, it allows the engine to rev higher before fully engaging, which can be advantageous for a few seconds of quicker acceleration. This can be particularly useful with the 4BT’s torque characteristics.

3. Optimized Power Band: A well-matched torque converter will keep your engine in its ideal power band during acceleration, making better use of the horsepower and torque available.

4. Weight and Traction: As always, the truck’s weight and traction will still matter, but you should find that with the additional torque converter and your tuning, you have a very capable setup.

Keep in mind that while a torque converter can improve performance, it’s essential to have the right one for your application. Make sure it’s compatible with your transmission and that it’s tuned correctly to take full advantage of your engine’s power.

If you have any more questions or need help selecting a torque converter, just let me know! Happy wrenching!

With your Cummins 4BT tuned to 200 horsepower, 31×10 tires, a 5.13 gear ratio, and paired with a torque converter, you could realistically expect your ’86 F-150 4×4 to achieve a 0-60 mph time in the range of 5.5 to 7 seconds. Here’s what this setup brings to the table:

1. Power Increase: The jump to 200 horsepower gives you an even sharper acceleration. With that extra power, you’ll have more acceleration potential, allowing you to reach 60 mph more quickly.

2. Torque Converter Advantage: A good torque converter will further enhance your acceleration from a standstill, making it easier to unleash that power effectively. This is especially important for diesel engines like the 4BT, which provide strong low-end torque.

3. Optimal Gearing: Your 5.13 gear ratio complements the increased horsepower by allowing for quicker acceleration. This higher ratio is perfect for maximizing torque while keeping engine RPMs in a favorable range during acceleration.

4. Overall Efficiency: With everything working together—more power, effective torque management, and good gearing—you’ll find that your truck is not only quicker off the line but also more responsive overall.

As always, real-world performance can vary based on factors like truck weight, tire condition, and environmental conditions. But with this setup, you’re looking at a very spirited performance from your Bullnose!

If you have more questions or want to dive deeper into specific parts for your project, just give me a shout! Enjoy the ride!

Reaching 300 horsepower with your Cummins 4BT in an ’86 F-150 4×4 is quite an achievement! With that kind of power, 31×10 tires, a 5.13 gear ratio, and a good torque converter, you could potentially see 0-60 mph times dropping to around 4.5 to 6 seconds. Here’s what to consider:

1. Serious Power Boost: Hitting 300 hp means you’ve significantly improved the performance capabilities of your engine. This power level allows for aggressive acceleration and a much more thrilling driving experience.

2. Torque Converter Optimization: A well-matched torque converter becomes even more critical at this power level. It needs to efficiently handle the increased torque and ensure that all that power is put to the ground effectively.

3. Gearing Considerations: The 5.13 gear ratio will help maximize your launch and acceleration, but you might also consider adjusting your gearing if you plan to push the engine harder. It’s all about finding the right balance for your driving style and needs.

4. Weight and Traction: With great power comes the responsibility of managing it. Make sure your truck has the right traction and weight distribution to handle the extra horsepower. Depending on the setup, you may need to look into upgrades for suspension, brakes, and tires to keep everything safe and effective.

5. Cooling and Fuel Delivery: At this power level, ensuring that your cooling system and fuel delivery are up to par is vital. Look into beefing up your radiator, intercooler, and fuel system to support sustained performance.

With all of these factors, you’ll be able to enjoy a very exciting ride in your Bullnose! Just remember that more power often means more responsibility in terms of maintenance and the need for additional upgrades to keep everything running smoothly.

If you have more questions or want specific recommendations for parts or tuning, I’m here to help! Happy driving!

Wow, with a tuned Cummins 4BT at 350 horsepower in your ’86 F-150 4×4, paired with a turbocharger, a torque converter, a 5.13 gear ratio, and 31×10.5 tires, you’re looking at an incredibly powerful setup! With all those specs, you could potentially achieve 0-60 mph times in the range of 4 to 5 seconds. Let’s break it down:

1. High Horsepower: 350 hp is pretty impressive for a 4BT, especially in a classic truck! This level of power will provide you with exhilarating acceleration and will make your Bullnose feel modern in terms of performance.

2. Turbocharged Boost: The turbocharger enhances airflow to the engine, allowing for better combustion and more power. This is a fantastic addition to your setup, as it leverages the engine’s efficiency and boosts performance significantly.

3. Effective Torque Converter: A well-chosen torque converter will help maximize acceleration by optimizing power transfer from the engine to the transmission. It’ll make a significant difference in how quickly you launch from a stop.

4. Gearing: The 5.13 gear ratio is perfect for balancing power and torque. It allows for quick acceleration while still providing decent torque for off-road situations.

5. Tire Size: The 31×10.5 tires will give you a good balance between on-road grip and off-road capability. Make sure they’re in good condition for optimal performance.

6. Weight Management and Suspension: At this power level, you’ll want to ensure your truck’s suspension and brakes are up to the task. Upgrades may be necessary to handle the added power and maintain control, especially during hard acceleration.

7. Cooling Systems: With great power output, monitoring your cooling system is crucial. Ensure your radiator, intercooler, and other cooling components are adequate to prevent overheating during spirited driving.

With all of these aspects working together, you’ve got a fantastic recipe for an exhilarating driving experience in your Bullnose! Just remember, with great power comes great responsibility—maintaining your truck and ensuring everything is in top shape will be key to enjoying your build.

If you have more questions, need tips on specific parts, or want to share your progress, I’m here for it! Happy driving!

For your ’86 F-150 4×4 with a tuned Cummins 4BT pushing 400 horsepower, you’ll need a strong and reliable transmission to handle that kind of power and torque. Here are a couple of options that would work well for your setup:

1. ZF 5-Speed Manual Transmission

• Strength: The ZF 5-speed is known for its durability and ability to handle high torque. It’s a solid choice for a Cummins swap and can handle the demands of a turbocharged 4BT.
• Gear Ratios: It provides a good spread of gears, which can help maximize both off-road capability and on-road performance.

2. NV4500 5-Speed Manual Transmission

• Popular Choice: The NV4500 is often favored for high-torque applications and is a common choice for those swapping a Cummins engine into older trucks.
• Robustness: It’s built to handle substantial power and torque while providing smooth shifts and good performance.
• Overdrive: The NV4500 has a 5th gear overdrive, which can help you with highway cruising efficiency.

3. E4OD Automatic Transmission

• For Automatic Preference: If you prefer an automatic, the E4OD (or the later 4R100) is a suitable option. It’s designed to handle more power and torque than the older C6 but may require some upgrades to handle the 400 hp reliably.
• Transmission Controller: If you go this route, consider using a transmission controller to ensure optimal shifting and performance, especially with a high-output engine.

4. Allison 1000 Transmission

• Heavy-Duty Option: For an even more heavy-duty option, you could go with an Allison 1000. This transmission is capable of handling high horsepower and torque levels well beyond your setup, offering exceptional durability.

Considerations:

• Transmission Mounting: Make sure you have the right adapter plates and mounting solutions for whichever transmission you choose.
• Driveshaft Compatibility: Ensure that your driveshafts are compatible with your selected transmission.
• Cooling: With high horsepower setups, adding an auxiliary transmission cooler can help maintain longevity and performance.

Ultimately, the choice depends on whether you prefer manual or automatic transmission and your specific driving style. If you have any more questions or need further advice on installation and compatibility, feel free to reach out! Happy building!

Great choice! Pairing your tuned Cummins 4BT at 400 horsepower with an E4OD automatic transmission and a transmission controller in your ’86 F-150 4×4 is a solid setup that should provide a good blend of power, control, and ease of driving. Here’s what to consider to make this combination work effectively:

Benefits of the E4OD with a Transmission Controller

1. Smooth Shifting: The E4OD is designed for a smooth and responsive driving experience. Coupled with a transmission controller, you can fine-tune the shifting characteristics to suit your driving style, whether you prioritize performance or comfort.

2. Handling Power: While the E4OD isn’t the strongest automatic available, it can handle moderate horsepower and torque with proper upgrades. Ensure that the internal components are well-maintained and consider beefing up the transmission with additional clutches and bands if you plan on pushing its limits.

3. Overdrive Gear: The E4OD offers an overdrive gear, which is a big plus for highway driving. It’ll help lower your RPMs, providing better fuel efficiency and reduced wear on the engine during long trips.

Key Considerations

1. Transmission Controller: A good transmission controller is essential for managing shifts effectively, especially with a high-horsepower setup. Look for options that allow for programmable shift points, line pressure adjustments, and possibly a manual mode for more control.

2. Cooling System: Given the power you’re pushing, upgrading the cooling system is vital. Consider installing an auxiliary transmission cooler to keep the E4OD running at optimal temperatures, especially during heavy towing or off-road conditions.

3. Driveshaft Compatibility: Make sure your driveshaft is compatible with the E4OD. Depending on your setup, you might need to modify or replace the driveshafts to prevent vibrations or potential failure.

4. Shift Kit: Installing a shift kit can enhance the performance of the E4OD by improving shift firmness and speed, which is beneficial for a high-powered application.

5. Mounting and Adapters: Ensure you have the proper mounting hardware and adapter plates to mate the E4OD to your Cummins engine. This step is crucial for a seamless installation.

6. Tuning: Don’t forget that the tuning of the transmission controller should complement the tuning of your engine. This will help maximize performance and ensure compatibility.

With these considerations in mind, your setup should provide an exhilarating driving experience while maintaining reliability. If you have more questions about specific parts or installation tips, feel free to ask! Happy wrenching!

With your ’86 F-150 4×4, featuring a tuned Cummins 4BT at 400 horsepower, an E4OD automatic transmission, a torque converter, 5.13 gear ratio, and 31×10.5 tires, you could realistically expect to achieve 0-60 mph times in the range of 4 to 6 seconds. Here’s why:

Factors Influencing Acceleration:

1. Power-to-Weight Ratio: Your truck’s weight combined with the 400 hp will give you a solid power-to-weight ratio, aiding in acceleration. Since classic trucks like the Bullnose tend to be lighter than modern pickups, you’re at an advantage.

2. Torque Converter: A matching torque converter will help maximize the power transfer from the engine to the transmission, allowing for quicker launches from a stop.

3. Gear Ratio: The 5.13 gear ratio is optimized for acceleration, giving you the torque you need to get off the line quickly. This ratio is especially helpful for off-road and performance applications.

4. Tires: The 31×10.5 tires provide a good balance of traction and rolling resistance. Ensuring they’re in good condition can make a difference in your launch and overall grip.

Real-World Variability:

Keep in mind that real-world performance can vary based on several factors such as:

• Truck weight (additional modifications or cargo)
• Tire condition and pressure
• Environmental conditions (temperature, elevation, etc.)
• Driver skill and launch technique

If you’re looking to optimize your 0-60 times even further, consider tuning options, weight reduction strategies, or experimenting with launch techniques. But with your setup, you’re already in for a thrilling ride! If you have more questions or want to discuss performance tuning, just let me know! Happy driving!

Estimating 0-60 mph times can be a bit tricky since it depends on several factors, including weight, traction, and tuning. However, with a well-tuned 1986 Ford F150 equipped with a 351 Windsor producing around 450 horsepower, a 4.10 gear ratio, and 31-inch tires, you’re likely looking at a 0-60 time in the ballpark of 6 to 7 seconds, assuming good traction and a proper launch.

Keep in mind that a lot of variables can affect this time:

1. Weight of the Truck: If you’ve got a lot of extra equipment or a heavy load, that will slow you down.

2. Tires: The type of tires you have can significantly affect grip and acceleration. Performance tires will give you a better launch than all-terrain ones.

3. Transmission Type: If you’re using a manual transmission, your shifting skill will play a big role in your acceleration. An automatic with a good torque converter can help you get off the line quicker.

4. Tuning and Fuel: Proper tuning and using high-octane fuel can help you maximize that horsepower, leading to better acceleration.

5. Launch Technique: How you launch the vehicle can impact your times. Too much wheel spin or launching without enough power can slow you down.

If you want real-world insights from other Bullnose owners, don’t forget to check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford. Happy racing!