Tag Bullnose Models

Choosing the right shocks for your 1985 F-150 with the 300 inline-six depends on how you use your truck and what kind of ride quality you’re looking for. Here are some options and considerations:

Stock Replacement

If you’re looking to maintain the original ride feel, go for OEM-style shocks. Brands like Monroe or KYB offer replacement shocks that are designed to match factory specifications.

Upgraded Performance

For improved handling and ride comfort, especially if you do a mix of highway driving and light off-roading, the Bilstein 4600 Series is a popular choice. They offer better damping and control without being too stiff for daily use.

Heavy-Duty and Off-Road

If you’re hauling heavy loads or hitting rougher trails, consider the Rancho RS5000X or Bilstein 5100 Series. These shocks provide increased durability and improved performance in demanding conditions.

Installation Tips

• Make sure your truck is safely supported before removing any components.
• Check for any signs of suspension wear, like bushings or mounts, and replace those as needed.
• Always tighten all fasteners to the manufacturer’s specifications to ensure safety and performance.

Pro Tips

• Consider pairing your new shocks with upgraded bushings or sway bars if you’re looking to further enhance stability.
• It’s often a good idea to replace all four shocks at the same time to maintain balanced handling.

By considering these factors, you’ll get the best performance and comfort for your specific needs. If you want to see more about suspension upgrades, there might be a related video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel worth checking out. Let me know if you need more details!

Great question! There are several places you can look for replacement radiators for your ’86 F-250 with the 6.9L diesel engine. Here are some options to consider:

1. Local Auto Parts Stores

• O’Reilly Auto Parts, AutoZone, or NAPA Auto Parts: They typically carry a selection of radiators, and they can often order one if they don’t have it in stock. Just make sure to provide them with your truck’s details.

2. Online Retailers

• RockAuto: This site often has a wide array of parts, including radiators for your Bullnose. You can filter by your specific vehicle to find the right fit.
• Amazon: You can find various aftermarket radiators here, but make sure to check reviews and compatibility.
• Summit Racing: They have a good selection of performance and stock parts for classic trucks.

3. Specialty Suppliers

• LMC Truck or Classic Industries: These companies specialize in parts for classic trucks and often carry quality replacement radiators.
• Radiator Specialty Companies: Some businesses focus specifically on radiators, so a quick search might yield some local or online options.

4. Local Salvage Yards

• Sometimes you can find a good used radiator at a salvage yard. Just make sure it’s in good condition before purchasing.

5. Community Recommendations

• Check out forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or the F150 Forum. The community often shares leads on where to find parts or may have recommendations based on their experiences.

No matter where you decide to purchase, just ensure that the radiator is specifically compatible with your 6.9L engine to avoid any issues. If you need help with anything else, feel free to ask! Happy hunting!

Fitting 33-inch tires on your 1983 F100 with a stock suspension is pushing the limits a bit more. While it’s not impossible, you’ll probably face some challenges.

Potential Issues with 33s

1. Rubbing: It’s very likely you’ll experience rubbing at full lock or when hitting bumps. This can happen on the fender wells and possibly on suspension components.

2. Trimming and Modifications: To avoid rubbing, you’ll probably need to trim the fender edges or modify the wheel wells. It might also require adjusting the suspension with a small lift for better clearance.

3. Performance Impact: The extra weight and size can noticeably affect handling, acceleration, and braking. It’s even more pronounced with a stock engine and the AOD transmission.

4. Gear Ratio: With 33s, your effective gear ratio changes significantly, which can reduce low-end torque and impact drivability, especially if your truck isn’t geared for it. You might consider a regear if performance drops off too much.

5. Speedometer Calibration: With larger tires, your speedometer will be off, and you’ll need to recalibrate it for accurate readings.

Recommendations

If you’re set on running 33s, consider a small lift kit to facilitate proper clearance. Alternatively, rolling or trimming the fender lips might suffice depending on how aggressively you drive.

For more ideas and setups others have tried, you might find useful discussions on the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) or potentially related videos on the Bullnose Garage channel. Always good to see what solutions other folks have come up with!

Going with 32-inch tires on your 1983 F100 at stock height is a bit more feasible than 33s, but still requires some consideration.

Fitting 32s

• Rubbing: You might still run into some minor rubbing issues, especially at full lock or when hitting a bump. This is less severe than with 33s, but something to watch out for.

• Minor Modifications: Depending on your specific truck and its suspension setup, you might get away with just minor adjustments, like possibly trimming the fender lips or adjusting the inner fender wells.

• Performance Impact: As with any tire size increase, expect some impact on performance — reduced acceleration, slight drops in fuel economy, and possibly more strain on your brakes.

• Gear Ratio Changes: The impact on your effective gear ratio is less dramatic than with 33s but still present, so keep an eye on how your truck feels, especially in terms of torque.

• Speedometer Adjustment: As with any tire size change, you’ll want to check your speedometer for accuracy and recalibrate if necessary.

Practical Steps

1. Check Wheel Backspacing: Ensure your wheels have the proper backspacing to help minimize rubbing. This adjustment can sometimes help fit larger tires without major mods.

2. Test Fit: If possible, try to test fit the tires before purchasing. This gives you a sense of clearance and any issues upfront.

If you decide on 32s and need more insights, the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) could be a source of firsthand experiences, and there might be related content over on the Bullnose Garage channel that could help guide your decision.

Retrofitting or upgrading the A/C system in your 1983 F100 can make a big difference in comfort, especially if you’re dealing with an older system or one that’s not functioning well. Let’s look at your options and what you need to consider.

Common Retrofit Options

1. R12 to R134a Conversion:

   • Overview: The original A/C systems in these trucks typically used R12 refrigerant, which is now obsolete and expensive. Converting to R134a is a common upgrade.
   • Components to Replace:
     • Compressor: Ensure it’s compatible with R134a or upgrade to a newer model.
     • Condenser: Consider a parallel flow condenser for better efficiency.
     • Drier/Accumulator: Always replace this component when opening the system.
     • Orifice Tube/Expansion Valve: Replace for optimal performance.
   • Seals and O-rings: Make sure all rubber components are compatible with R134a.

2. Vintage Air Systems:

   • Overview: Vintage Air offers complete aftermarket systems designed for classic vehicles. They provide modern A/C performance while integrating well with the original design.
   • Pros: More efficient cooling, modern reliability, and often cleaner installation.
   • Cons: Higher upfront cost and may require custom work for perfect fitment.

3. OEM Replacements:

   • Overview: If you’re keen on keeping things closer to original, you can replace the key components with OEM or equivalent parts designed for R12 but adapted for R134a.
   • Considerations: Availability can be an issue, as not all OEM parts are still in production.

Tips for a Successful Retrofit

• Flush the System: Before switching refrigerants, thoroughly flush the system to remove all traces of the old oil and refrigerant.

• Check for Leaks: Use a vacuum test to ensure there are no leaks before charging the system with the new refrigerant.

• Professional Help: If you’re not comfortable with A/C systems, consider having a professional do the retrofit. Proper handling of refrigerants is crucial for safety and legality.

• Resources: If you’re interested in a DIY approach, there may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that walks through an A/C retrofit.

For more specific advice or shared experiences, the folks over on the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) might have some valuable insights. A/C work can be fiddly, but the comfort is worth it!

I specialize in the 1980–1986 Ford trucks, particularly the Bullnose generation. For advice on a Chevy C10, I recommend checking out forums or resources dedicated to that model. There are plenty of knowledgeable folks out there who can help with C10-specific questions. If you have any more questions about Bullnose Fords, feel free to ask!

You’re very welcome! It’s totally understandable to have concerns about that swap; these projects can get tricky, but they’re also super rewarding!

Keeping the lighter F-150 frame while using the F-250 components is a good approach, especially if you want to maintain a bit of that nimbleness, but dropping the F-150 body onto the F-250 chassis can be a fantastic option too! That way, you’ll benefit from the stronger F-250 frame, which should handle the added weight and power of the 460 much better.

Here are some things to consider if you decide to go that route:

1. Fitment: Make sure the body mounts line up properly between the two frames. You may need to do some custom mounting or adjustments to get everything to fit just right.

2. Height Differences: Keep an eye on the height of the F-250 frame compared to the F-150. You might end up with a higher ride height, which could affect your center of gravity. Adjusting the suspension could help to level things out.

3. Drivetrain Alignment: Ensure that the drivetrain (engine, transmission, driveshaft) lines up correctly once you drop the body onto the F-250 frame.

4. Wiring and Dash Components: There might be some differences in the wiring harnesses, especially if you’re using components from different model years. Just make sure to document everything for a smoother install.

5. Weight Distribution: The F-250 frame is built to handle more weight, so it should be more stable with the bigger engine. That could enhance your overall ride quality and performance, especially under load.

6. Future Modifications: If you plan to do any further modifications, like adding towing capacity or off-road enhancements, starting with the F-250 frame can provide a solid foundation.

You’re on the right track thinking about these options! Whatever you decide, it’s bound to be an impressive build. If you have any further questions or need advice on specifics, feel free to reach out. Happy wrenching!

That sounds like a blast! Setting up your Bullnose for off-road adventures is such a great way to enjoy your truck. With a solid platform like the F-250 chassis and the 460 engine, you’re already on your way to an off-road beast!

When it comes to suspension, here are some key points to keep in mind:

1. Lift Kit: If you’re planning to tackle some serious off-roading, consider investing in a good lift kit. A 4 to 6-inch lift will give you more ground clearance, which is essential for navigating rocks and rough terrain. Plus, it’ll allow you to fit larger tires.

2. Quality Shocks: Look for high-performance shocks designed for off-road use. They’ll help absorb the impact from bumps and rugged trails. Brands like Fox or Bilstein are popular choices among off-road enthusiasts.

3. Leaf Springs: If you’re keeping the stock leaf springs, you might want to upgrade them to heavy-duty or off-road-rated springs. This will improve load capacity and ride quality when hitting the trails.

4. Sway Bars: If your truck has sway bars, consider adjustable or disconnectable ones. This can help with articulation when you’re off-roading, allowing the wheels to move up and down more freely over obstacles.

5. Tires: Don’t forget about the tires! A good set of all-terrain or mud-terrain tires will improve traction significantly. Make sure they fit within your wheel wells after lifting the truck.

6. Alignment: After making any suspension changes, get a proper alignment. This will help ensure that your tires wear evenly and that the truck handles well on and off the road.

7. Skid Plates: Consider adding skid plates to protect your undercarriage, especially with the bigger engine and any off-roading you’ll be doing. This will help you avoid damage from rocks and uneven surfaces.

If you’re looking for inspiration, check out some off-road builds on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They often share invaluable tips and ideas that can help you with your project.

Once you get that suspension dialed in, you’ll be ready to hit the trails with confidence! If you have more questions or need specific advice as you move forward, just let me know. I’m here to help!

You’re on the right track! Having that AOD built a bit more heavy-duty is definitely a smart move, especially since you’re planning on using it for light towing. A well-built AOD can provide that peace of mind you’re after, and there are a few upgrades you might consider:

1. Stronger Clutches: Upgrading to higher-performance clutches can help your transmission handle more power and stress, which is great for towing.

2. Better Bands: Similar to the clutches, stronger bands can improve holding power and durability.

3. Upgraded Torque Converter: A high-stall torque converter can improve performance, especially when towing. It allows the engine to reach higher RPMs before the converter locks up, which can be beneficial for acceleration.

4. Improved Valve Body: A performance valve body can enhance shifting responsiveness and durability. This upgrade can make a big difference, especially when you’re towing and need that extra performance.

5. Cooling Upgrades: As mentioned, don’t skimp on the cooling system! A larger external cooler can prevent overheating, which is critical for maintaining the health of your transmission.

6. Consult a Professional: It’s always a good idea to consult with a transmission specialist who has experience with AODs. They can tailor the build to your specific needs and driving habits.

Building your AOD can be a fantastic way to ensure reliability while enjoying the benefits of overdrive. Plus, it’ll make your E350 a lot more enjoyable on the highway!

If you have any more questions about the process or need further tips, feel free to ask! Happy to help!

You bet! The 1986 Econoline falls under the Bullnose category. The Bullnose era, which spans from 1980 to 1986, is known for its distinctive boxy design and those iconic front ends. So, in short, your E350 is definitely part of the Bullnose family!

This makes it a great candidate for modifications and upgrades, just like any of the Ford trucks from that era. The Bullnose community is passionate, and you’ll find plenty of folks who share your enthusiasm for these classic vehicles.

If you’re looking for advice or tips on anything specific to your Econoline or Bullnose models in general, don’t hesitate to reach out. Enjoy the journey of getting it up and running, and happy driving!

That’s fantastic! With only 74,000 original miles and a straight body, you’ve got a real gem on your hands! It sounds like your 1986 Econoline has been well cared for, and that makes it an even more exciting project.

When you’re working on a vehicle with such low mileage, it’s a good opportunity to focus on preventive maintenance. Here are a few tips to consider as you get started:

1. Fluid Changes: Make sure to change all the fluids—engine oil, transmission fluid, rear differential fluid, and coolant. Fresh fluids can do wonders for a vehicle that’s been sitting.

2. Inspect Belts and Hoses: Check the condition of all belts and hoses for signs of wear or cracking. These can deteriorate over time, even if the mileage is low.

3. Brake System: Inspect the brake lines, pads, and rotors. Low mileage doesn’t always mean the brakes are in good shape, especially if they’ve been sitting for a while.

4. Fuel System: If the fuel is old, consider draining the tank and replacing the fuel filter. Adding a fuel system cleaner can also help revive the injectors.

5. Tires: Check the condition of the tires for dry rot or flat spots, especially if it hasn’t been driven much recently. It’s essential for safety!

6. Electrical System: Look over the battery and all electrical connections. Sometimes, corroded connections can lead to electrical gremlins down the road.

Taking care of these basics will set you up for success as you start enjoying your Bullnose. And don’t forget to share your progress with the Bullnose community—you’ll find plenty of supportive folks who are just as excited about these classics as you are!

If you have any questions as you dive into your project, don’t hesitate to ask. I’m here to help!

Wow, sounds like you hit the jackpot with that purchase! Having a master mechanic do all that work is a huge plus, especially with the fluid changes, belts, and the AC swap to R134. That should give you a solid foundation to build on!

Those aftermarket wheels and tires can really enhance both the appearance and performance of your Econoline, too. Just make sure that the tire size and offset are suitable for your vehicle to avoid any rubbing or handling issues.

Since your truck is in such good shape and has been well maintained, you can focus on any personal touches or upgrades you want to make. Here are a few ideas to consider as you enjoy your Bullnose:

1. Interior Upgrades: Consider updating the stereo system or adding some comfortable seat covers. These small changes can really enhance your driving experience.

2. Performance Mods: If you’re feeling adventurous, you could explore some performance upgrades for the 5.8 engine, like a better intake or exhaust system to improve airflow.

3. Sound Deadening: Adding sound-deadening material inside can make the ride quieter and more enjoyable, especially on longer trips.

4. LED Lighting: Consider upgrading to LED headlights and interior lights for better visibility and a modern touch.

5. Community Involvement: Since you’re part of the Bullnose family, don’t forget to connect with fellow enthusiasts online, whether it’s through the Bullnose Ford subreddit or other forums. It’s a great way to share experiences and get inspiration!

With a solid starting point and your enthusiasm, I can’t wait to see how your project comes together. If you have more questions or need tips along the way, just let me know! Happy cruising!

That sounds like a blast! Using your Econoline to haul around English bulldogs is sure to be a fun and unique experience. They’ll definitely appreciate the roomy ride, and it’ll be a great way to take them on adventures!

Adding LED lights and a decent stereo will not only enhance your driving experience but also make those doggy outings more enjoyable. Here are a couple of extra tips for your plans:

1. LED Lighting: When upgrading to LED lights, consider both the headlights and interior lighting. For the headlights, look for high-quality options that provide good visibility. For the interior, LED strips or replacement bulbs can create a nice ambiance.

2. Stereo System: A decent stereo will make those drives a lot more enjoyable. Look for one with Bluetooth capabilities so you can stream music easily. Don’t forget to consider adding some better speakers or even a subwoofer for deeper sound!

3. Pet Safety: As you’re transporting your bulldogs, think about adding some pet safety measures, like a good seat cover to protect your interior and maybe a pet barrier to keep them comfy and secure while you drive.

4. Comfort Features: Since you’re planning to spend time in the van with your pups, consider adding some comfort features like seat covers, floor mats, or even a small portable fan if you’re in warmer climates.

Your enthusiasm for making this rig nice is contagious! If you have any more questions or need advice on your upgrades, just holler. I’m here to help! Happy hauling!

Ah, the classic dual tank issue! That’s a common quirk in Bullnose models, but don’t worry—we can tackle it! A non-functional fuel gauge can be frustrating, especially when you have two tanks to manage. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can take to pinpoint the issue:

1. Check the Wiring: Start by checking the wiring to the fuel sender units in both tanks. Loose or corroded connections can lead to gauge malfunction. Look for any frayed wires or poor connections.

2. Fuel Senders: Each tank has its own fuel sender, which sends the fuel level information to the gauge. If one or both senders are faulty, it could cause the gauge to read incorrectly or not at all. You might need to access the senders by dropping the tanks (be careful when doing this!).

3. Gauge Cluster: Sometimes, the issue can be within the gauge cluster itself. Ensure that the cluster connections are clean and secure. If you have a multimeter, you can test the gauge for proper operation.

4. Select Switch: If your Econoline has a fuel tank selector switch, check to ensure it’s functioning properly. If the switch is faulty, it may be sending incorrect signals to the gauge.

5. Testing: If you’re comfortable with it, you can test the senders by connecting a multimeter or resistance tester to see if they’re sending the right signals as the fuel level changes.

6. Replacement: If you determine that the sender units are the culprit and they need replacing, you can find them online or at a local parts store. It’s a good idea to replace both if one is faulty, just to avoid further issues down the road.

If you’re unsure about any of these steps, or if you’d like a visual guide, there might be some useful videos on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that could help you out.

Don’t let this issue dampen your excitement! You’ll have that fuel gauge working in no time, and you’ll be set to enjoy your Econoline to the fullest. If you have more questions or need further assistance, just let me know!

Absolutely! Cutting an access hole is a popular and clever method to reach the fuel sending units without the hassle of dropping the tank. This approach can save you a lot of time and effort, especially if the tank is full or if you’re working in a tight space. Just make sure to follow a few key steps if you decide to go this route:

1. Location: Before cutting, locate the sending unit. You’ll typically find it on the top of the tank. Be sure to mark where you want to cut the access hole, so it’s directly above the sending unit.

2. Access Panel: Use a suitable tool to cut an access panel, like a rotary tool or a jigsaw. Make sure to wear safety glasses and gloves to protect yourself from metal shavings and debris.

3. Size of the Hole: Cut the hole large enough to give you access to the sender, but not so big that you compromise the structural integrity of the vehicle or create a mess. A 6” to 8” round opening is usually sufficient.

4. Sealing the Hole: After you’re done working on the senders, consider using a removable access cover or panel to seal the hole. This will help keep dirt and moisture out, plus it makes it easier to access in the future if necessary.

5. Double-Check: Be sure to check your work before sealing everything back up. Make sure connections are clean and secure, and test the senders if possible.

This method can save you a lot of frustration, and many in the Bullnose community have successfully used it. Just be cautious and take your time during the process.

If you need more guidance or want to see if there are some video tutorials on this topic, feel free to check out Bullnose Garage or other forums where enthusiasts share their experiences. And of course, if you have any more questions, I’m here for you! Happy tinkering!

Ah, that’s no good! Overfilling and leaking from the front tank can definitely be a headache. This issue may be caused by a couple of different factors, so let’s go through some potential causes and solutions:

1. Vent Issues: The most common culprit is a blocked vent line. Your fuel tank has a vent to allow air to escape as you fill it up. If this vent is clogged or kinked, it can cause fuel to back up and spill out. You’ll want to check the vent line for any obstructions or damage.

2. Filler Neck: Inspect the fuel filler neck for any cracks or damage. If there’s a problem with the filler neck, it could cause fuel to leak out when filling.

3. Fuel Sender Seal: If the sending unit seal is damaged or if the unit is improperly seated, this could create a leak when the tank is full. Make sure that the sending unit is properly installed and that the seal is in good condition.

4. Tank Condition: Check the tank itself for any rust, corrosion, or punctures. Older tanks can develop issues over time, especially if they’ve been exposed to moisture or road salt.

5. Pump Issues: If your fuel pump is malfunctioning, it could be causing excessive pressure in the tank, which might lead to leaks. Make sure the pump is working correctly.

6. Testing: To help diagnose the leak, you might want to fill the tank slowly and watch closely for where the fuel is coming from. This can help you identify if it’s a vent issue, a seal, or another problem.

If these steps don’t resolve the issue, you might want to consult with a local mechanic or refer to some DIY guides that could provide more detailed troubleshooting.

It’s always best to address fuel leaks promptly for safety reasons. If you have any more questions or need further help, don’t hesitate to reach out! I’m here to help you get that Bullnose running smoothly!

You’re very welcome! Now, when it comes to fuel mileage with a C6 transmission in your Bullnose, it can vary quite a bit based on several factors, including the engine, driving conditions, and how you drive. Generally speaking, you can expect fuel economy in the ballpark of:

• Around 10 to 15 miles per gallon: If you have a 5.0L (302) or 5.8L (351) V8, you might see numbers towards the lower end of that range, especially if you’re doing a lot of stop-and-go driving or towing.

• Highway Driving: If you’re mostly cruising on the highway, you might get closer to the higher end, possibly up to 15-18 miles per gallon, depending on your setup and how well the truck is tuned.

Several things can help improve your fuel mileage:

1. Regular Maintenance: Keep up with oil changes, air filter replacements, and ensure your fuel system is clean. A well-maintained engine runs more efficiently.

2. Tire Pressure: Make sure your tires are properly inflated. Under-inflated tires create extra drag, which can hurt your mileage.

3. Driving Habits: Smooth acceleration and braking can make a difference. Try to avoid rapid starts and hard stops to improve your fuel efficiency.

4. Weight: Be mindful of how much weight you’re carrying. The more weight in the truck, the worse the mileage.

5. Performance Upgrades: If you’re feeling ambitious, consider performance upgrades like a better air intake or exhaust system. These can sometimes help improve efficiency along with performance.

Ultimately, every truck is different, and real-world fuel economy can vary widely. If you keep an eye on your mileage and make adjustments as needed, you’ll get a better idea of what to expect for your specific setup.

If you have more questions or need any tips on improving those numbers, just let me know! I’m here to help you enjoy your Bullnose even more!

Great question! The Bullnose grille from the trucks typically does not fit the Bullnose vans. While they share the same general design language and some parts, the front end dimensions and mounting points are different between the two.

The Bullnose vans (like the E-Series) have their own distinct grille and front-end styling, so you won’t be able to directly swap the truck grille over to the van without some significant modifications.

However, if you’re looking to customize or upgrade your van’s front-end appearance, you might find some aftermarket options or even consider modifying the existing grille for a unique look.

If you’re thinking about a specific style or upgrade, check out forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or sites like Gary’s Garagemahal for inspiration and ideas from fellow enthusiasts who have tackled similar projects.

If you have more questions or need help with anything else, feel free to ask! I’m always here to help you out!

That sounds like an exciting project! Wrapping your Bullnose is a fantastic way to give it a fresh look without the commitment of a full paint job. Plus, it allows you to experiment with colors and designs. Here are some tips to help you as you get ready for the wrap:

1. Prep the Surface: Make sure the truck’s surface is clean and free of any wax, grease, or dirt. You might need to do some light sanding if there are rough spots or imperfections.

2. Choose Quality Materials: Invest in high-quality vinyl wrap material. Cheaper wraps can fade or peel more quickly, and you want your Bullnose to look good for years to come.

3. Plan Your Design: Take some time to think about the color, graphics, and overall design you want. Consider creating mock-ups to visualize how it will look. There are plenty of online tools and apps that can help with this.

4. Professional Help: If you’re not comfortable applying the wrap yourself, consider hiring a professional. They have the experience and tools to ensure a smooth application without bubbles or wrinkles.

5. Finish with Care: After the wrap is on, make sure to take care of it. Avoid high-pressure washes and harsh chemicals that could damage the vinyl. Regularly wash it with gentle soap and water.

6. Community Inspiration: Don’t forget to check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit and other forums. You might find inspiration from other Bullnose enthusiasts who have wrapped their vehicles.

It sounds like you’re on the path to making your Bullnose a real head-turner! If you have any more questions about the wrap process or anything else, feel free to ask. I’m here to help you every step of the way! Happy wrapping!

That’s a fantastic idea! Using your Bullnose as advertising for the Bulldogs is a creative way to promote your team while also having fun with your ride. A well-designed wrap can really grab attention and spread the word. Here are some tips to make

Coming up with a cool nickname for your Bullnose van can really add personality to your advertising efforts! Here are some fun ideas that might inspire you:

1. Bulldog Hauler: A nod to your team and what your van will be doing!
2. Van-tastic Bulldog: A playful twist that highlights both the van and your mascot.
3. Bully Wagon: Simple and catchy, this keeps it connected to your team.
4. The Bullnose Beast: Emphasizes the ruggedness of the Bullnose while sounding strong.
5. Paw-sitive Vibes: A fun pun that gives off a friendly feel.
6. The K-9 Cruiser: Perfect if you want to highlight the Bulldog theme with a canine touch.
7. Team Van-tastic: A cheerful name that reflects team spirit!
8. Bully Mobile: Straightforward and catchy, it makes it clear what the van is about.

Whatever name you choose, make sure it resonates with your team’s spirit and the message you want to convey. It can also be a great conversation starter! If you have any specific themes or ideas in mind, let me know, and I can help brainstorm more. Happy naming!

I love that name for your kennel! It really sets the stage for some creative nicknames for your Bullnose van. Here are a few ideas that incorporate “Dream Team” and your Bulldog theme:

1. Dream Team Machine: A catchy and fun name that highlights both the kennel and the van’s purpose.
2. Bulldog Dream Chaser: Perfect for a van that’s all about showcasing your dogs!
3. Team Pup Mobile: A playful nod to the Dream Team while keeping it lighthearted.
4. The English Dreamer: A classy touch that brings in your breed’s name.
5. Dream Team Cruiser: Simple yet effective, keeping it all about the team spirit.
6. The Bulldog Brigade: Emphasizes camaraderie and your English Bulldogs.
7. Dream Team Dawg Wagon: A fun and memorable name that rolls off the tongue.

Whatever you choose, make sure it reflects the personality of your kennel and the essence of your Bulldogs. If you have any other themes or ideas in mind, I’d be happy to help brainstorm even more! Enjoy the process, and happy advertising!

You’re very welcome! I’m thrilled you liked the suggestions! It sounds like you’ve got an exciting project ahead of you with your Bullnose van and promoting your kennel. Supporting Bullnose Garage is a great choice; they’ve got tons of valuable insights and an amazing community of enthusiasts.

If you ever have more questions, whether about your van, maintenance tips, or anything else related to Bullnose classics, don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m always here to help out a fellow enthusiast. Enjoy the journey with your Dream Team Custom English Bulldogs, and happy cruising! 🐾🚐

You’re too kind! Thank you so much for the compliments! It truly makes my day to help fellow Bullnose enthusiasts like you. Remember, whether it’s about maintenance, modifications, or just chatting about classic trucks, I’m here for you. Enjoy your adventures with your Bullnose and your Bulldogs! Keep rocking, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you need anything else. Happy cruising! 🌟🚙

Good night, Gordy! It’s been a pleasure chatting with you. If you ever have more questions or just want to share how your Bullnose project is going, feel free to drop by anytime. Sweet dreams, and may your Bulldogs and Bullnose adventures be nothing short of awesome! Take care! 🌙🐶🚐

Hey there, Gordy! I’m doing great, thanks for asking! I’m glad you’re diving into the details of your 1986 Bullnose Econoline E350.

For the 1986 E350, the dual fuel tank system typically has a combined capacity of around 38 gallons—two tanks of about 19 gallons each. This setup lets you switch between tanks, which is pretty handy for longer trips or when you want to maximize your fuel range.

Just a quick note: If you’re planning to work on or modify the fuel system, always make sure to inspect the lines and connections for any leaks or wear. Safety first!

If you have more specific questions or need further details, feel free to ask! I’m here to help!

You’re very welcome, Gordy! As for cruising at 70 mph in your 1986 Bullnose Econoline E350, it’s generally safe to do so, especially if the engine is in good condition. Many owners find that these vans can handle highway speeds comfortably.

However, for optimal performance and to keep the engine happy, a sweet spot is usually between 55 and 65 mph. This range allows the engine to run efficiently without straining too much. Running at higher speeds can increase wear and tear, especially if you have an older engine.

Make sure to keep an eye on your temperature gauges, and ensure your oil and coolant levels are good before hitting the highway. Regular maintenance goes a long way in keeping your Bullnose running strong!

If you have any more questions or need tips on highway driving with your van, just let me know! Safe travels! 🚐💨

That sounds like a fantastic drive, Gordy! Staying around 60 mph is a smart choice, especially for long trips like that. It gives you a nice balance of speed and engine longevity. Plus, it sounds like your Bullnose is really performing well if it ran perfectly for that journey.

Just remember to take those breaks, especially on those longer drives—your Bullnose will appreciate a little downtime, and so will you! If you ever want tips on routes, stops, or even maintenance before your next trip, don’t hesitate to ask. Keep enjoying those adventures! 🚐✨

Absolutely, Gordy! I’m all about those classic Bullnose Ford trucks and vans, especially from 1980 to 1986. These vehicles have a unique charm and character that’s hard to beat! Whether it’s maintenance, repairs, modifications, or just general care tips, I’m here to help you with any questions you might have about them. If there’s a specific area you’re interested in—like engines, transmissions, or even restoration advice—feel free to ask! I’m excited to share my knowledge! 🚙💙

I appreciate your curiosity, Gordy! My expertise is focused primarily on the Bullnose Ford trucks and vans from 1980 to 1986. While I may have some general knowledge about other vehicles, I’m really here to help you with everything related to those classic Bullnose models. If you have any specific questions about them, I’m all ears! If you’re ever looking for info on other makes or models, I recommend checking out specialized forums or resources for those vehicles. But for Bullnose goodness, I’m your go-to! 🚐🔧

That’s a fantastic engine, Gordy! The 7.3L Power Stroke diesel is legendary for its durability and performance. While I focus on the Bullnose models, I can certainly appreciate the qualities of the 1998 Ford with that powerhouse engine. It’s known for being a workhorse and holds a special place in the hearts of many Ford enthusiasts.

If you have any specific questions about the 7.3 or how it compares to your Bullnose, feel free to share! Otherwise, I’m here to keep the focus on those classic Bullnose beauties. Just let me know what you need!

Good morning! Happy New Year to you too, Gordy! 🎉 I hope you’re having a great start to 2024.

Now, onto your question about transmissions. The AOD (Automatic Overdrive) and the C6 each have their strengths, so it really depends on what you’re looking for in your Bullnose.

C6 with Gear Vendors:

• The C6 is a robust three-speed automatic known for its durability.
• Pairing it with a Gear Vendors overdrive lets you effectively turn it into a four-speed transmission, giving you better fuel economy at highway speeds without sacrificing the ruggedness of the C6.
• This combo is great for towing or heavy-duty applications since the C6 can handle a lot of power and torque.

AOD:

• The AOD is a four-speed automatic with an overdrive gear, which means it’s designed for more relaxed highway cruising right out of the box.
• It’s easier to install in some cases, and it gives you better fuel economy compared to a non-overdrive setup, especially at highway speeds.
• However, it may not be as robust as the C6, particularly under heavy loads or high-performance situations.

In summary, if you’re looking for durability and plan to tow or push your Bullnose, the C6 with Gear Vendors might be your best bet. If you’re aiming for fuel efficiency and a smoother ride on the highway, the AOD could work well for you.

If you need more specific advice or have other details about your setup, feel free to share! I’m here to help! 🚙💨

You’re very welcome, Gordy! If you have any more questions or need further assistance, don’t hesitate to reach out. Enjoy your Bullnose and happy cruising! 🚐✨

Great question, Gordy! The AOD transmission was indeed available in some Bullnose models, but it’s more common in the later years of the Ford F-Series trucks.

For the classic Bullnose trucks (1980-1986), the AOD was typically found in the later years, especially in the 1985 and 1986 models where it was offered as an option. It was primarily paired with the 302 and 351 engines.

If you’re working on a specific model year or setup, let me know, and I can provide more tailored info! Happy to help you dive deeper into the Bullnose world! 🚙🔧

You’re welcome, Gordy! The AOD is generally a bit longer than the C6.

To give you a clearer picture:

• The AOD measures about 30.5 inches in length.
• The C6 is approximately 29.3 inches long.

This difference in length can affect your driveshaft length and potentially your crossmember placement if you’re swapping between the two. Always a good idea to double-check those measurements before making any changes!

If you’re considering a swap or modification, feel free to ask for more tips. I’m here to help! 🚐🔩

Hey there, Gordy! Doing a tune-up on a 1986 Econoline van is a pretty manageable task, especially if you have some basic tools and a little patience. Here’s a quick rundown to help you out:

Steps for a Tune-Up:

1. Gather Your Supplies:

   • New spark plugs
   • Spark plug wires
   • Distributor cap and rotor (if applicable)
   • Air filter
   • Fuel filter (optional but recommended)
   • PCV valve (if needed)
   • Tools: socket set, pliers, screwdrivers, and maybe a torque wrench.

2. Change the Spark Plugs:

   • Start by removing the old spark plugs. You’ll want to disconnect the spark plug wires (mark them if necessary) and use a socket wrench to unscrew the plugs.
   • Check the gap on the new plugs (typically around .044 inches for the 302 engine) and install them, tightening to the manufacturer’s specifications.

3. Replace the Spark Plug Wires:

   • It’s often easier to replace the wires one at a time to avoid mixing them up. Make sure to use quality wires designed for your engine.

4. Update the Distributor Cap and Rotor:

   • If your Econoline has a distributor, remove the cap and replace the rotor underneath. Make sure to clean the contacts inside the cap before putting it back together.

5. Change the Air Filter:

   • Simply unclip or unscrew the air filter housing, replace the old filter with a new one, and reassemble.

6. Replace the Fuel Filter:

   • This usually involves disconnecting the fuel lines, so be careful and have a rag handy for any spills. Make sure to follow the flow direction marked on the filter.

7. Inspect Other Components:

   • While you’re at it, check the PCV valve and replace it if it’s clogged or dirty.

Tips:

• Refer to a Manual: Having a repair manual specific to the 1986 Econoline can be super helpful for torque specs and specific instructions.
• Take Your Time: Don’t rush it! Enjoy the process, maybe put on some music, and take breaks if needed.

Overall, it’s a solid project to tackle, and you’ll feel great once you’ve done it! If you run into any specific issues or have questions along the way, just let me know. I’m here to cheer you on! 🚐🔧✨

For the 1986 Econoline van, whether you need to remove the engine cover depends on the engine configuration. If your Econoline has a 5.0L (302) or 5.8L (351) V8 engine, you typically do not need to remove the engine cover to access the spark plugs, but it can be a bit tight.

However, if you have a 6-cylinder engine, the plugs are usually more accessible, and you shouldn’t need to remove anything other than possibly some air intake components.

A Few Tips:

• Check for Obstructions: You might need to move or remove some components like the air cleaner or wiring harnesses to get better access.
• Use a Swivel Socket: A swivel socket can help reach those tricky plugs without too much hassle.
• Work in Sections: If it feels cramped, take it one side at a time to avoid feeling overwhelmed.

If you encounter any difficulties or specific parts that seem in the way, just let me know. I’m here to help you navigate through the process! Good luck with your tune-up! 🚐✨

You’re welcome, Gordy! The dashboard for the 1986 Bullnose F-Series trucks and the Econoline vans are not interchangeable.

While they may share some design elements due to being part of the same generation, the overall shape and mounting points differ. The truck dash is designed to fit the contours and layout specific to the F-Series, while the Econoline has its own unique design tailored for a van.

If you’re considering a dash replacement or modification, it’s a good idea to source parts specifically for your vehicle type. If you need help finding parts or have more questions about your Bullnose, just let me know! I’m happy to assist you! 🚐🔧

Yes, Gordy! There are options for digital dashes that can be used in a 1986 Econoline. Companies like Dakota Digital offer customizable digital instrument clusters that can fit a variety of classic vehicles, including Ford models from that era.

Here are some points to consider:

• Fitment: Make sure to check compatibility with your specific van model and engine configuration.
• Features: Many digital dashes come with features like customizable lighting, multiple gauge options, and even data logging capabilities.
• Installation: Depending on your comfort level with wiring and modifications, installation can range from straightforward to more involved. Having a good set of instructions is key!

If you’re interested, I recommend checking out the Dakota Digital website or reaching out to them for more specific information on their products for your Econoline.

Also, if you’re looking for installation tips, the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel has videos that might be helpful! Just remember to take your time with the install, and feel free to reach out if you have more questions. Happy cruising! 🚐💨✨

Good morning, Gordy! Great question! Driving a 1986 Econoline daily to work can definitely be a viable option, especially if it’s well-maintained. Here are a few factors to consider:

Pros:

• Reliability: Many owners love their Econolines for their durability. If yours has been well taken care of, it can serve you well as a daily driver.
• Space: The Econoline offers ample room for passengers and cargo, which can be a big plus if you need to haul anything.
• Comfort: They can be quite comfortable for longer drives if equipped properly.

Things to Check:

• Mechanical Condition: Make sure everything is in good shape—engine, transmission, brakes, and tires. Regular maintenance is key!
• Fuel Efficiency: Keep in mind that older vans may not be as fuel-efficient as modern vehicles. It’s worth checking your expected mileage.
• Safety Features: Ensure that your brakes, lights, and signals are functioning correctly for safe commuting.
• Comfort: If you plan to spend considerable time in it, consider the condition of the seats and any climate controls.

Final Thoughts:

If your Econoline is in good working order, it can be a fun and functional daily driver! Just stay on top of maintenance, and you’ll likely enjoy the ride without major issues. If you have any specific concerns about your van, feel free to ask! I’m here to help! 🚐✨

Hello there, Gordy! I’m doing well, thanks for asking! Now, regarding your question about the A-pillars in the 1986 E350 and F350, the A-pillars are generally not interchangeable between the two models.

Key Differences:

• Design and Configuration: The A-pillars on the E350 are designed to fit the van’s body style, while the F350 has a different configuration based on its pickup design.
• Mounting Points: The mounting points and perhaps even the angles of the A-pillars can vary due to the differences in the vehicle structures.

If You’re Considering Replacement:

• Source Parts Specifically: When looking for replacement parts, ensure that you’re sourcing them specifically for your model. It’s always best to get parts that are designed for the exact vehicle to ensure proper fitment.

If you’re working on a project or need specific advice on repairs or modifications, feel free to ask! I’m happy to help out! 🚐🔧✨

Yes, Gordy! There are gauge pillar pods available for the 1986 Econoline vans, although they might not be as widely available as those for more common vehicles. Companies like Auto Meter or Dakota Digital offer universal gauge pods that can be adapted for your Econoline.

A Few Things to Keep in Mind:

• Universal Fit: Some gauge pods are universal and may require a bit of customization to fit your van’s A-pillar, but they can still work well.
• Gauge Type: Make sure to choose a pod that can accommodate the gauges you want to install (like oil pressure, temperature, etc.).
• Installation: Installation will typically involve some minor modifications, so be prepared for that if you go this route.

It’s a good idea to check with local automotive shops or online retailers that specialize in classic truck and van parts. If you’re looking for specific installation tips or have questions about gauge selection, feel free to ask! Happy modding! 🚐🔧✨

You’re very welcome, Gordy! I’m glad I could help you out. If you have any more questions or need assistance down the road, just holler! Enjoy working on your van, and happy cruising! 🚐✨

Hello again, Gordy! I’m doing great, thanks for asking! Now, about your question regarding the 351W block and a .060" bore—yes, it can be safe, but there are a few important factors to consider:

Key Points:

• Bore and Wall Thickness: The 351W block can typically handle a .060" overbore, but you have to ensure that you still have adequate wall thickness. It’s crucial to have the block inspected by a machine shop to ensure it’s in good shape.
• Heat Dissipation: A larger bore increases the surface area, which can help with heat dissipation. However, make sure your cooling system is up to the task, especially if you’re planning on pushing more power.
• Piston Selection: When boring to .060", be sure to choose the right pistons. You’ll want to look for pistons that can handle the increased displacement and match your engine’s performance goals.

Final Thoughts:

If the block is in good condition and has been properly machined, a .060" bore can work just fine. Just be sure to consult with a trusted engine builder or machine shop to ensure everything is done right. They can assess the block and provide insight specific to your setup.

If you have any further questions or need more details, feel free to ask! I’m here to help! 🛠️💪✨

Great question, Gordy! Going with a .030" or .040" overbore can indeed be a safer option for your 351W block, especially if you’re concerned about maintaining the integrity of the block. Here’s why:

Advantages of .030" or .040" Bore:

• More Wall Thickness: By not pushing the limits to .060", you retain more material in the cylinder walls, which can help with strength and longevity.
• Less Risk of Overheating: A smaller bore means less surface area, which can lead to more controlled heat dissipation, reducing the risk of overheating.
• Better for Stock Applications: If you’re aiming for a mild build or restoration, sticking to a smaller bore can be easier on the engine and maintain its reliability.

Performance Considerations:

• If you’re looking for a bit more power but want to stay safe, both .030" and .040" are common choices that many engine builders recommend. They allow for a performance boost without the risk that comes with going too far.
• Remember to match your piston selection and tune your engine accordingly to get the most out of the smaller bore.

Ultimately, it boils down to your goals for the engine and how much power you’re aiming to achieve. A good discussion with a machine shop or engine builder can provide you with tailored advice based on your specific block’s condition and your performance aspirations.

Feel free to ask if you have more questions or need further assistance! I’m here for you! 🛠️🚀✨

Great question, Gordy! When it comes to stroking a 351W block without requiring grinding or significant modifications, you generally want to stick with a stroke up to 3.85 inches. This is the typical stroke for aftermarket stroker kits designed for the 351W that don’t require grinding the block.

Key Considerations:

• Stock Crankshaft Stroke: The stock stroke for a 351W is 3.5 inches, so a mild increase to 3.85 inches is a common choice for adding some extra torque and horsepower.
• Piston Selection: Make sure to choose pistons that are designed for the specific stroke you decide on. They should be compatible with your setup to maintain proper compression ratios.
• Clearance Checks: While a stroke of 3.85 inches usually avoids any grinding, it’s still crucial to check for clearance in the block, especially with connecting rods and the crankshaft.

Final Thoughts:

If you’re looking to increase performance without the hassle of grinding, sticking to a 3.85-inch stroke is a solid option. It’s always a good idea to consult with your engine builder or machine shop for personalized advice based on your goals.

If you have more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask! Happy building! 🛠️✨

Excellent question, Gordy! A safe and effective stroker combination for a 351W can really bring out its potential. Here’s a popular setup that many enthusiasts and builders have had success with:

Recommended 351W Stroker Combination:

• Stroker Kit: Use a 393 cubic inch stroker kit. This typically involves a 4.00-inch stroke crankshaft paired with the stock 351W 5.956-inch connecting rods.
• Pistons: Choose high-quality forged pistons designed for a 393 stroker setup. You’ll want pistons that can give you around 9.5:1 to 10.5:1 compression, depending on your fuel choice and intended use.
• Camshaft: A camshaft with a duration around 220-230 degrees at .050 lift and a lift of around .500-.550 inches can provide excellent torque and horsepower while maintaining streetability.
• Cylinder Heads: Consider aftermarket heads, such as Edelbrock Performer RPM or Trick Flow heads. They improve airflow considerably and can really help unlock the potential of your stroker.
• Intake Manifold: A dual-plane intake like the Edelbrock Performer can offer great low to mid-range power, while a single-plane manifold works better at higher RPMs if that’s your goal.

Additional Considerations:

• Fuel System: Ensure your carburetor or fuel injection system is up to the task. A carburetor around 750 CFM is usually a good match for this setup.
• Ignition System: A quality ignition system is essential. Consider a performance distributor and a good set of spark plugs and wires to ensure proper firing.
• Cooling System: A high-performance radiator and upgraded cooling components are a good idea, especially with the extra heat generated by the added power.

This combination can provide you with a powerful and reliable engine setup without compromising the streetability of your 351W. As always, consulting with a knowledgeable engine builder can help you fine-tune the specs to fit your unique needs.

If you have more questions or need further clarification, just let me know! Happy building! 🚀🛠️✨

Great choice, Gordy! If you’re looking to build a 351W stroker with a 3.85-inch crank and a .040" overbore, you’re targeting a setup that should yield around 392 cubic inches. Here’s a solid combination to consider:

Recommended Stroker Combination:

1. Crankshaft: Use a 3.85-inch stroke crankshaft specifically designed for the 351W. This will give you the desired displacement when combined with the overbore.

2. Bore: With a .040" overbore, you’ll be working with a bore diameter of about 4.030 inches. This is a common size and provides a great balance of power and reliability when done right.

3. Pistons: Choose forged pistons designed for a 392 setup. Look for a compression ratio around 10:1 to 10.5:1 for good performance on pump gas, but make sure to check your head’s combustion chamber size for exact calculations.

4. Connecting Rods: Use stock 351W rods or aftermarket rods compatible with your crank. If you’re using a stroker crank, you might want to consider custom-length rods to achieve the best geometry.

5. Camshaft: A camshaft with a duration of roughly 220-230 degrees at .050 lift with a lift around .500 to .550 inches is a solid choice. This can provide good mid-range torque and horsepower.

6. Cylinder Heads: Aftermarket heads such as the Edelbrock Performer RPM or Trick Flow heads can really help enhance airflow, which is crucial for stroker builds.

7. Intake and Carburetor: A good dual-plane intake like the Edelbrock Performer will work great. For carburetion, aim for around a 750 CFM carburetor to match your performance goals.

Additional Tips:

• Clearance: Always check for clearance issues with the larger stroke and bore. You want to make sure everything fits well together, especially with the pistons and valves.
• Cooling: With higher power output, you may want to upgrade your cooling system for optimal performance.
• Tune: After your build, a proper tune is crucial to get the most out of your setup.

This combination can give you a strong, reliable engine that performs well on the street and during spirited driving. If you have any more questions or need further assistance with your project, feel free to reach out! Happy building! 🚀🛠️✨

That sounds like an exciting project, Gordy! Building a 351W stroker engine to pair with an AOD (Automatic Overdrive) transmission in your 1986 E350 will certainly enhance both power and drivability. Here’s a solid approach to help you get started:

Stroker Engine Setup:

1. Stroker Crankshaft: Aim for a 3.85 to 4.00-inch stroker crankshaft. This will increase your displacement and provide more torque and horsepower. A common choice is a 393 stroker kit with a 4.00-inch stroke.

2. Bore Size: You can go with a .030 to .040 overbore, which should give you a bore size of approximately 4.030 inches if you choose .040". This is a solid option for balance and performance.

3. Pistons: High-quality forged pistons are essential. Look for pistons that will give you a compression ratio between 9.5:1 and 10.5:1, which should be compatible with pump gas.

4. Connecting Rods: Use strong, aftermarket connecting rods designed for your stroker setup. This helps in ensuring durability under load.

5. Camshaft: Opt for a camshaft with a duration of around 220-230 degrees at .050 lift with a lift of about .500 to .550 inches. This will provide good low-end and mid-range power, which is great for a van.

6. Cylinder Heads: Aftermarket heads such as Edelbrock Performer RPM will improve airflow significantly, helping maximize the potential of your stroker engine.

7. Intake and Carburetor: A dual-plane intake like the Edelbrock Performer will work well for your application. For carburetion, a 750 CFM carburetor is a good match for this setup.

AOD Transmission Setup:

1. Transmissions: The AOD transmission is a great choice for your E350, providing overdrive for cruising efficiency while still being strong enough for towing and hauling.

2. Transmission Controller: If you’re considering a later model AOD with electronic controls, you may need a standalone controller to manage shift points and functions.

3. Crossmember and Driveshaft: You may need to modify or source a new crossmember and driveshaft to accommodate the AOD transmission, so keep that in mind during your build.

4. Cooling: Make sure to install a transmission cooler, as AODs can generate extra heat, especially when towing.

Final Thoughts:

This combination will not only provide a significant performance boost over your stock engine but also improve fuel efficiency while cruising thanks to the overdrive. Make sure to consult with a knowledgeable engine builder or technician for the best parts and tuning for your specific application.

If you have more questions or need assistance along the way, just let me know! Happy building, and enjoy bringing your E350 to life! 🚐💨🛠️✨

Great question, Gordy! Deciding between the AOD and the 4R70W for your 351W stroker engine build can depend on your specific needs and driving style. Here’s a breakdown of both transmissions to help you make an informed choice:

AOD (Automatic Overdrive)

• Overview: The AOD is a three-speed automatic with an overdrive fourth gear. It’s known for its simplicity and reliability, making it a popular choice for many classic Ford builds.
• Advantages:
  • Simplicity: Easier to find parts and has a straightforward design.
  • Good for Street Use: Offers decent fuel economy with its overdrive for highway cruising.
  • Towing Capability: Capable of handling moderate loads, making it a decent option for towing.
• Disadvantages:
  • Shift Quality: The shift points can be less refined compared to more modern transmissions.
  • Limited Electronics: Older design means it lacks some of the advanced electronic controls that newer transmissions offer.

4R70W

• Overview: The 4R70W is a more modern four-speed automatic transmission with electronic controls. It’s an evolution of the AOD and offers improved performance and fuel efficiency.
• Advantages:
  • Improved Shift Quality: Offers better and more consistent shift points, especially when tuned properly.
  • Four Gears: The extra gear provides better fuel economy and performance, particularly under load or during acceleration.
  • Electronic Control: Allows for more precise tuning and adaptability to performance modifications.
• Disadvantages:
  • Complexity: More complex than the AOD, which can mean more parts to source and possibly more difficult to work on.
  • Electronic Dependency: The need for a compatible controller or a computer system to manage the transmission.

Which to Choose?

• For Simplicity and Reliability: If you prefer a straightforward, reliable setup and don’t mind a little less sophistication, the AOD would be a great choice.
• For Performance and Efficiency: If you’re looking for improved shift performance, better fuel economy, and the ability to handle more power, the 4R70W is likely the better option.

Ultimately, it depends on your specific goals for the build and how you plan to use your E350. If you’re leaning toward a spirited drive with possible towing, the 4R70W could be the way to go. If you’re keeping it simple and classic, stick with the AOD.

If you need more info or have further questions, feel free to ask! I’m here to help! 🚐💨🛠️✨

That’s a great question, Gordy! The strength and durability of the AOD compared to the 4R70W can be a key consideration in your build. Here’s how they stack up:

AOD (Automatic Overdrive)

• Strength: The AOD is a robust transmission, but it’s generally considered to be less capable of handling high horsepower and torque compared to the 4R70W. It was designed primarily for lighter-duty applications, and while it can handle moderate performance upgrades, it may struggle under heavy loads or extreme power levels without significant reinforcement.
• Parts Availability: There are many aftermarket upgrades available for the AOD, including stronger clutch packs and improved torque converters, which can help increase its durability.

4R70W

• Strength: The 4R70W is a more modern transmission that offers improved strength and durability. It was designed to handle more power and torque, making it better suited for performance applications. The addition of electronic controls also allows for more precise tuning, which can help prevent harsh shifting and unwanted wear.
• Performance Upgrades: Like the AOD, the 4R70W also has a wide range of aftermarket parts available, including heavy-duty rebuild kits and upgraded torque converters, making it easier to build for high-performance applications.

Summary

• AOD: Suitable for moderate horsepower and torque; can be made stronger with upgrades but may not hold up as well under extreme conditions.
• 4R70W: Generally stronger and more capable of handling higher power levels; better suited for performance builds and demanding applications.

If your 351W stroker is going to be a high-performance engine, the 4R70W is likely the better choice for durability and strength. However, if you’re keeping the power levels reasonable, the AOD can still be an excellent and reliable option.

If you have any more questions or need further help, just let me know! I’m here for you! 🚐💪🛠️✨

Great question, Gordy! While the AOD and 4R70W are different transmissions, there are some similarities, but generally speaking, they are not fully interchangeable. Here’s a breakdown of their compatibility:

Key Differences

1. Design and Construction: The AOD is an older design, whereas the 4R70W is a more modern evolution that incorporates electronic controls. This means that many of the internal components are different, and direct interchangeability is limited.

2. Transmission Control: The AOD operates purely mechanically, while the 4R70W relies on electronic controls. This affects components like the valve body and the modulator, which are not compatible between the two transmissions.

3. Bellhousing Pattern: Both transmissions have similar bellhousing patterns that allow them to be mounted to a 351W engine, but the mounting provisions might vary slightly, especially if you are using different converter styles.

Potentially Interchangeable Parts

While most parts aren’t interchangeable, there are a few components that might be compatible:

• Torque Converters: Some torque converters may work with both transmissions, but it’s essential to verify compatibility based on your specific setup and the stall speed you want.
• External Components: Certain external parts like shifters and linkages may be used with modifications.

Recommendations

If you’re considering parts for either transmission, it’s best to consult with a reputable parts supplier or engine builder who specializes in Ford transmissions. They can help you find the right components for your specific needs.

So, in short, while there are a few components that might share some compatibility, the AOD and 4R70W are largely distinct transmissions with limited interchangeability. If you have more questions or need specifics, feel free to ask! I’m here to help! 🚐🔧✨

You’re very welcome! I’m glad I could help. If you have any more questions or need further assistance with your Bullnose or anything else, just give me a shout. Happy tinkering, and keep that classic truck running strong! 🚐💨✨