Tag Ford truck parts

Finding the right hydraulic slave cylinder and throw-out bearing for your NP435 transmission can be a bit of a hunt, but I’ve got some pointers to help you out.

Understanding the NP435

The NP435 is a tough, four-speed manual transmission found in many Ford trucks from the 1960s to 1990s. In a Bullnose Ford (1980–1986), it’s more likely to be paired with a mechanical linkage rather than a hydraulic one. However, if you’re looking to retrofit a hydraulic system, you’ve got options.

Retrofit Kits

1. Hydraulic Clutch Conversions Kits:

   • Companies like American Powertrain and Modern Driveline offer hydraulic clutch conversion kits that might suit your needs. These kits generally include a master cylinder, slave cylinder, and necessary linkages or lines.

2. Universal Hydraulic Slave Cylinders:

   • You can also look into universal hydraulic slave cylinders. These require some customization for mounting and connection to your clutch fork, but they offer flexibility.

Finding the Parts

1. OEM Parts:

   • If your truck originally came with a hydraulic system (rare for Bullnose trucks with the NP435), check classic Ford parts suppliers or even salvage yards specializing in vintage parts.

2. Aftermarket Options:

   • Look into aftermarket suppliers like Summit Racing, RockAuto, or LMC Truck. They might not have a direct bolt-on kit for the NP435 in a Bullnose, but they can provide components you can adapt.

3. Fabrication:

   • Sometimes, a bit of custom fabrication is needed to get everything lined up correctly. If you’re not comfortable with this, a local machine shop or mechanic with experience in classic Ford trucks might be able to help.

Tips and Considerations

• Pedal Assembly: Ensure your pedal assembly is compatible with a hydraulic setup. Some fabrication or swapping might be necessary.
• Bleeding the System: Properly bleeding the hydraulic system is crucial. Any air in the lines can lead to a spongy pedal feel.
• Compatibility: Double-check the fit and compatibility of all components with your specific truck model and year to avoid headaches down the road.

For more detailed guidance, there might be relevant videos on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that can walk you through parts of this conversion. And if you’re into community support, the Bullnose Ford subreddit could also be a good place to ask for advice from fellow enthusiasts. Good luck with your project!

Alright, you’re working with a 1983 E-150 equipped with the 302 (5.0L) V8 engine. Good choice—those 302s are reliable workhorses!

Oil Type and Capacity

Oil Type:
For your 302 engine, you’ll typically want to use a high-quality SAE 10W-30 oil. If you’re in a hotter climate, you might opt for SAE 10W-40 for a little extra protection at higher temperatures.

Oil Capacity:
The oil capacity for the 302 V8 is about 5 quarts, including the oil filter. Always check the dipstick after filling, and top off if necessary to ensure you’re at the proper level.

Pro Tips:

• Oil Filter: Make sure to replace the oil filter every time you change the oil. A Motorcraft FL-1A is a solid choice and designed to fit perfectly.

• Break-In: If your engine is freshly rebuilt, you might want to use a break-in oil or an oil additive with high zinc (ZDDP) content for the first few hundred miles to ensure everything seats properly.

• Regular Checks: It’s always a good idea to regularly check your oil level and condition between changes, especially if your van is a daily driver or sees heavy use.

Hopefully, this gets you sorted. If you run into any issues or have more questions about your Bullnose, feel free to ask!

Great, sounds like you’ve got an ’85 F-150 with the venerable 300 inline-six. A solid workhorse for sure. What kind of info or help are you looking for? Whether it’s maintenance, upgrades, or a specific issue, I’m here to guide you through it.

Hey there! Great to hear you’re working on a 351W project. Installing 1974 351W heads on an 1985 351W is a popular upgrade, and it can definitely boost performance. But let’s dive into the details!

Compatibility

1. Head Bolt Pattern: The head bolt pattern on the 351W hasn’t changed, so the heads will bolt right up to your block without any issues.
2. Casting Differences: However, be aware that the 1974 heads (especially the earlier models) may have smaller combustion chambers compared to the later versions. This could impact your compression ratio, so make sure to check that out before you commit.

Accessory Bolts

As for the accessory bolt pattern, the front of the heads generally stayed consistent through the years. That means you should be able to use your existing accessory brackets and hardware. However, there can be slight variations depending on the exact year and any modifications made to the engine, so it’s always good to double-check.

Additional Considerations

• Intake Manifold: If you’re planning to use an aftermarket intake, ensure it’s compatible with the older head design.
• Valves and Springs: You might want to consider the condition of the valves and springs in the 1974 heads, as they may require a refresh.

If you’re looking for more insights or tips, you might want to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They often cover engine swaps and modifications that could give you some visual guidance.

Happy wrenching, and let me know if you have any more questions!

Hey there! Sounds like your ’86 F-250 is in need of some TLC! Replacing the radiator is a great way to keep that 6.9L diesel running cool and happy.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:

Tools & Materials

• New radiator (make sure it’s compatible with your 6.9L)
• Radiator hoses (it’s a good idea to replace these too)
• Hose clamps
• Coolant (make sure it’s the right type for diesel engines)
• Basic hand tools (sockets, wrenches, screwdriver)
• Drain pan
• Safety glasses and gloves

Step-by-Step Process

1. Preparation:

   • Park your truck on a flat surface and allow the engine to cool completely. Safety first!

2. Drain the Old Coolant:

   • Place your drain pan under the radiator and open the petcock at the bottom to drain the coolant. If there’s no petcock, you can remove the lower radiator hose.

3. Disconnect the Battery:

   • Always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before working on electrical components.

4. Remove the Radiator Hoses:

   • Loosen the clamps and detach the upper and lower radiator hoses. You might want to replace these hoses while you’re at it if they look worn.

5. Remove the Radiator:

   • Take off any mounting brackets or bolts holding the radiator in place. If your F-250 has an A/C condenser in front, you may need to remove it carefully to get the radiator out.

6. Install the New Radiator:

   • Place the new radiator in position and secure it with the mounting hardware.

7. Reconnect the Hoses:

   • Attach the upper and lower hoses and tighten the clamps.

8. Fill with Coolant:

   • Pour in the new coolant (50/50 mix of coolant and water is usually recommended) through the radiator cap. Don’t forget to check the overflow reservoir too!

9. Reconnect the Battery:

   • Hook everything back up by connecting the negative battery cable.

10. Check for Leaks:

    • Start the engine and let it idle for a bit. Keep an eye out for leaks around the hoses and radiator.

11. Test Drive:

    • Take your truck for a short drive, then check the temperature gauge and coolant levels again.

Additional Tips

• Sometimes, the mounting points can get rusty, so it’s a good idea to clean those up before installing your new radiator.
• If you need a little visual guidance, check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel; they have some great content on radiator swaps that might help!

And there you go! If you encounter any hiccups along the way or have questions about specific steps, just let me know. Happy wrenching!

Great question! The 351M and the 400 are both part of Ford’s "M" family of engines, and they share quite a bit in common, but there are important differences that can affect your classic Bullnose truck.

Engine Size and Design:

• 351M (Modified): This engine displaces 351 cubic inches and is often found in later model Fords. It’s known for its torque and was designed for better low-end performance.
• 400: This engine has a larger displacement of 400 cubic inches, which gives it even more torque and power. It was designed for heavier-duty applications, making it a popular choice for trucks and larger vehicles.

Components:

• Both engines share many components, such as the block design and certain internals, but the 400 typically has a larger crankshaft and a different bore and stroke configuration, which contributes to its higher displacement.

Performance:

• The 400 engine generally provides more horsepower and torque due to its larger size, making it a preferred choice if you’re looking for extra power for towing or hauling.
• The 351M, while slightly less powerful, is still a solid performer and can be a great option if you want a balance of efficiency and capability.

Applications:

• The 351M was often used in lighter Ford trucks and vans, while the 400 was more commonly found in heavier vehicles like larger trucks and certain motorhomes.

A lot of Bullnose enthusiasts enjoy swapping between these engines for different performance needs. If you’re considering an upgrade or a swap in your Bullnose, think about what you’ll be using the truck for!

For more detailed insights, the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel has some great content on engine swaps and performance upgrades that you might find helpful. Just remember, every truck is unique, so tailor your engine choice to fit your specific needs!

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask!