Tag upgrades

Can you guide me on installing a 3G alternator in my 1985 F-150 that currently has a 2G alternator? Where can I source one?


Bullnose Bill explaining 3G alternator installation for a 1985 F-150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
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Bill says:

Hey there! It’s fantastic to hear you’re diving into the upgrade of your 1985 F-150—going from that old 2G alternator to a 3G is a great choice! You’ll boost your truck’s electrical system, and it’s not too tough to install. So, let’s break it down step by step!

Finding a 3G Alternator

You have a couple of options when it comes to sourcing a 3G alternator.

  1. New Alternator: This is the way to go if you want reliability and warranty. You can find them at most auto parts stores, or check online retailers like RockAuto, Summit Racing, or even Amazon. Make sure you get a 130-amp model for optimal performance.

  2. Junkyard: If you’re looking to save some bucks and enjoy a bit of the thrill of the hunt, check your local junkyard. Just be sure to inspect it carefully for any signs of damage or wear. Sometimes, you can find gems there!

Installation Steps

Here’s a quick rundown on how to install the 3G alternator:

  1. Disconnect the Battery: Safety first! Always disconnect your battery before working on electrical components.

  2. Remove the Old 2G Alternator:

    • Remove the wiring harness from the 2G alternator. You’ll have a couple of connectors to detach.
    • Take off the belt by loosening the tensioner and sliding it off the alternator.
    • Unbolt the alternator from its bracket and remove it.
  3. Get the Right Bracket:

    • The good news is that the 3G alternator often fits right in the original location. However, sometimes you might need a new bracket. There are kits available specifically for swapping to a 3G alternator. You can find these at auto parts stores or online.
  4. Install the New 3G Alternator:

    • Place the 3G alternator in the bracket and bolt it down.
    • Reattach the wiring:
      • Connect the main power wire (usually a large ring terminal) to the B+ terminal.
      • Connect the smaller plug (the stator wire) to the corresponding terminal.
    • If your 3G alternator has an "I" terminal, you may need to run a wire to the ignition switch for proper charging—this is where the fun of learning comes in!
  5. Reattach the Belt: Put the serpentine belt back on and ensure it’s aligned correctly on all pulleys.

  6. Reconnect the Battery: Now that everything is in place, reconnect your battery.

  7. Test It Out: Start your truck and check the voltage at the battery with a multimeter. You should see a solid 13.5 to 14.5 volts while the engine is running.

Additional Tips

  • Wiring Considerations: Sometimes, you might need to modify your wiring a bit; be prepared for that. A wiring diagram can be a lifesaver if you’re unsure.
  • Pulley Compatibility: The 3G alternator may have a different pulley than the 2G. Check that they match up, or you may need to swap pulleys.

Community Resources

As you tackle this project, I recommend checking out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for visual guidance! They have some fantastic content that can help you see the process in action.

If you’re looking for further advice or have more questions, feel free to ask! And don’t forget to check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford for some extra community support and tips! Happy wrenching!


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User:

Which vehicles should I search for in a junkyard to find a 3G alternator?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great question! If you’re on the hunt for a 3G alternator in a junkyard, you’re looking for specific Ford models from the mid-1990s to early 2000s. Here’s a handy list of vehicles to check out:

Vehicles to Look For:

  1. 1994-2002 Ford F-Series Trucks: This includes the F-150, F-250, and F-350 models. Most will have the 3G alternator.

  2. 1994-2001 Ford Explorer: The early Explorers also commonly featured the 3G alternator.

  3. 1995-2001 Ford Mustang: You might find a 3G in these sporty rides as well.

  4. 1994-1997 Ford Bronco: These classic SUVs are worth a look too.

  5. 1994-1998 Ford Ranger: The smaller Ranger trucks often have the 3G as well.

Quick Tip for Identification:

When you’re scavenging at the junkyard, look for alternators that have the following specifications:

  • A round, clock-style face.
  • The 3G alternator typically has a larger diameter than the 2G and has a single wire connector along with a larger B+ terminal.

If you’re unsure, you can always take a picture of your existing 2G alternator and compare it with what you find. Remember, while you’re at it, check the condition of the alternator as well—look for signs of wear, corrosion, or damage.

Happy hunting, and feel free to ask if you have more questions!

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User:

Is it necessary to upgrade my battery wiring and ground when installing the 3G alternator? What is the typical amperage and wire size for a 3G?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Absolutely, upgrading your battery wiring and ground is a smart move, especially when you’re swapping in a 3G alternator! A solid electrical system is crucial for ensuring that everything runs smoothly and efficiently, and upgrading those wires can help handle the increased output of the 3G.

Typical Amperage of a 3G Alternator

The 3G alternator typically comes in 130 amps, and some can even push up to 150 amps. This gives you plenty of extra power for accessories, lights, and anything else you might add down the road.

Recommended Wire Sizes

When upgrading your wiring to accommodate the 3G alternator, here are some guidelines:

  1. Battery to Alternator Wire:

    • Wire Size: Use 4 AWG wire. This size will handle the amperage without overheating and ensure efficient charging.
    • Make sure you use high-quality welding cable or battery cable, as they are designed to handle high current.
  2. Ground Wire:

    • Wire Size: Also use 4 AWG wire for the ground; a solid ground is crucial for your alternator and entire electrical system.
    • It’s a good practice to connect the ground directly to the engine block or chassis to minimize resistance.
  3. Battery to Chassis Ground:

    • If you haven’t upgraded this already, consider adding a dedicated grounding strap or wire from the battery to the chassis using 4 AWG as well.

Additional Tips

  • Connector Quality: Use high-quality terminals and connectors to ensure good contact and prevent corrosion.
  • Fuse: Consider adding an inline fuse on the battery wire to protect against electrical shorts. A 175-amp fuse is a good choice for a 3G setup.
  • Routing: Route your wires carefully to avoid chafing against sharp edges or hot components.

Upgrading your battery and ground wiring alongside the alternator swap will help ensure your electrical system is robust and reliable. Plus, who doesn’t love a little extra peace of mind while they’re cruising in their trusty Bullnose?

If you have any more questions or need tips on anything else, just let me know! Happy wrenching!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the steps to convert a column shifter to a floor shifter in a Bullnose F-150 with an NP435 transmission?


Bullnose Bill explaining the column to floor shifter conversion for Ford F-150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Swapping from a column shifter to a floor shifter in your Bullnose F-150 with an NP435 transmission is a fantastic way to modernize the driving experience and give your truck a fresh look! It’s a rewarding project that can really enhance your classic ride. Let’s dive into the steps you’ll need to follow!

1. Gather Your Tools and Parts

  • Tools Needed:
    • Wrenches and sockets (various sizes)
    • Screwdrivers
    • Pliers
    • Torque wrench
    • Drill (if needed for mounting brackets)
  • Parts Needed:
    • Floor shifter kit specific for the NP435 (you can find these online or at your local parts store)
    • Shifter boot and plate
    • Linkage kit (if not included with the shifter kit)

2. Remove the Column Shifter

  • Start by disconnecting the battery. Safety first!
  • Remove the steering column cover and any trim pieces that may obstruct access to the shifter.
  • Disconnect the linkage from the column shifter to the transmission. Depending on your setup, you might need to unbolt a few parts.
  • Carefully remove the column shifter by unbolting it from the steering column.

3. Prepare the Floor

  • Remove the carpet to access the floor. This will also help you see where to place the new shifter.
  • Depending on the shifter kit you choose, you might need to drill holes for mounting brackets. Be sure to measure twice to avoid any mistakes!

4. Install the Floor Shifter

  • Follow the instructions from your floor shifter kit. You’ll typically mount the shifter base to the floor using the provided brackets.
  • Install the shifter lever and ensure it moves freely without obstruction.
  • Connect the linkage from the new floor shifter to the NP435 transmission. Make sure everything is tight and secured to prevent any rattling or misalignment.

5. Fit the Shifter Boot and Trim

  • Once everything is installed, position the boot over the shifter base and secure it to the floor. This will help keep dirt and debris out of the shifter assembly.
  • Reinstall any trim pieces that were removed and make sure everything looks neat.

6. Reconnect the Battery and Test

  • Reconnect your battery and start the truck. Take it for a test drive to ensure the shifter operates smoothly and that the linkage is correctly adjusted.

7. Final Checks

  • After a short drive, double-check all bolts and connections to ensure nothing has come loose.

Additional Tips:

  • If you haven’t done any shifter swaps before, consider watching a video tutorial for visual guidance. The Bullnose Garage YouTube channel often has practical tips and walkthroughs that can help you through this process!
  • Don’t hesitate to reach out to the community on the Bullnose Ford subreddit if you have any specific questions or run into issues.

This project might take a bit of time, but the satisfaction of shifting through those gears on the floor is well worth it. Happy wrenching! If you have any more questions or need clarification, feel free to ask!


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User:

Which floor shifter kits are recommended for this conversion?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Absolutely! There are a few solid options out there for floor shifter kits that work well with the NP435 transmission in your Bullnose F-150. Here are a couple of recommendations:

1. Hurst Shifter Kits

  • Hurst offers a great reputation and quality when it comes to shifters. Their kits are well-engineered and provide a smooth, positive shift feel. Look for their specific NP435 shifter kit; it should include everything you need for a straightforward installation.

2. B&M Floor Shifter Kits

  • B&M is another popular choice among gearheads. They have a variety of shifter kits that are compatible with the NP435. Their products typically come with detailed instructions, making installation easier for DIYers.

3. Lokar Shifter Kits

  • If you’re looking for something with a bit more style, Lokar offers shifter kits that boast a vintage look with modern performance. Their kits often come with a variety of options for knobs and finishes, allowing you to customize the interior of your Bullnose.

4. DIY Solutions

  • If you’re feeling adventurous, some enthusiasts opt for a custom or DIY approach using generic shifter components. You’ll need to source parts that work with NP435 and ensure proper linkage, but this can lead to a unique setup tailored to your preferences.

Where to Buy

You can typically find these kits online at major auto parts retailers like Summit Racing, Jegs, or even Amazon. Local hot rod shops might also have them in stock.

Each kit will have its own set of instructions, so be sure to read through those carefully. And, as always, check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for any install tips or tricks that might help you along the way. Happy swapping, and let me know if you need anything else!

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User:

Is it necessary to cover the old column shifter holes?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Yes, you’ll definitely want to plug the old holes where the column shifter was mounted once you’ve completed the swap to a floor shifter. This will help maintain a clean appearance in your interior and prevent any unwanted debris or moisture from entering the cab. Here are a couple of options for addressing those holes:

1. Rubber or Plastic Plugs

  • You can find rubber or plastic plugs at most auto parts stores or online. These are designed to fit various hole sizes and can be a quick and effective way to seal off the old holes.

2. Metal or Fabricated Plates

  • If you want a more permanent and aesthetically pleasing solution, consider fabricating a small plate or using a metal cover to seal the holes. You can paint it to match your interior or use a simple black or silver finish for a clean look.

3. Body Filler

  • For a more involved approach, you could use body filler to fill the holes completely, then sand and paint the area to match your truck’s interior. This method requires more work but can result in a seamless finish.

Final Tip

Make sure whatever method you choose is secure and weather-resistant, especially if your truck sees any outdoor use. Keeping your Bullnose looking sharp is half the fun! If you need more tips or have other questions, feel free to ask!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.