What Tools Do I Need to Rebuild an Engine?

If you’ve ever tried removing a harmonic balancer with a chisel or peeling off an old gasket using nothing but a butter knife (true story—I’ve seen it done), then you’ve come to the right place. Today, we’re tackling one of the most common questions in the world of gearheads and DIY automotive enthusiasts: “What tools do I need to rebuild an engine?” Or, put another way, “Which engine rebuild tools are absolutely essential, and which ones can I skip?”

Rebuilding an engine isn’t just a job; it’s a rite of passage. You take a tired old powerplant, tear it down to its bare bones, then piece it back together so it’s better, stronger, and ready to roar. But you can’t do that with random junk from your kitchen drawer or your grandpa’s woodshop. Sure, he might tell you to “use the right tool for the job,” and he’s not wrong, but in a pinch, we’ve all improvised (sorry, Grandpa). Yet if you want to keep your sanity—and keep your engine components in one piece—investing in the proper gear will save you time, money, and a whole lot of cursing.

Below, I’ve listed all the engine tools I use (or recommend) when I tear down and rebuild. We’ll go through why each matters, how it can save you some grief, and a few tips on what to look out for. And because I’m a big fan of convenience—and possibly funded by a few Amazon affiliate pennies—each section includes a link if you want to check out the tool for yourself. Ready? Let’s get into it.

1. Engine Hoist (Cherry Picker)

If you’re pulling your engine from a vehicle, you need something that can lift several hundred pounds of iron off the mounts, dangle it in midair, and not break your back or your garage floor in the process. Some folks call this a “cherry picker,” but I call it the Great Equalizer.

Must-Have Factor: 10/10
Typical Cost: $100–$400, depending on capacity and features
Why You Need It: You’re not lifting a 350-pound block by hand unless you’re training for a World’s Strongest Man contest.
Tips: Look for a hoist that can handle your engine’s weight plus some wiggle room. A load leveler (about $40 extra) makes those tilts and angles less of a circus act. Folding booms are sweet for saving space.

Engine Hoist on Amazon

2. Engine Stand

Once the engine’s out, you don’t want it rolling around on the floor like some giant paperweight. An engine stand is your best friend. Bolt up the block, and you can spin it around like a rotisserie chicken—just a lot more expensive than dinner at the local deli.

Must-Have Factor: 9/10
Typical Cost: $50–$250, depending on weight capacity
Why You Need It: Allows safe teardown without balancing a block on a wobbly bench or your lap.
Tips: Make sure the mounting pattern on the stand is compatible with your block and check the weight rating. Look for foldable stands if storage is an issue.

Engine Stand on Amazon

3. Silicone Tool Tray Set

Imagine 50 different bolts, washers, and doodads scattering across your workbench—or worse, the floor—never to be seen again. A silicone tray set is like a playpen for your parts.

Must-Have Factor: 5/10
Typical Cost: $15–$60
Why You Need It: Keeps the nuts and bolts you’ll eventually forget about neatly corralled.
Tips: Silicone trays resist heat, clean easily, and won’t scratch your surfaces. Bonus: they double as pet bowls. (Wash them first, obviously.)

Silicone Tool Tray Set on Amazon

4. Oil Drip Mat

Engines are messy. Oil, coolant, and grime love to drip onto your garage floor. If you value your garage, or your relationship, a good oil drip mat is a lifesaver.

Must-Have Factor: 4/10 (skip if you’re outside and don’t mind a mess)
Typical Cost: $20–$100
Why You Need It: Keeps spills from permanently staining your floor (or driveway).
Tips: Rubber mats are cheap but might not hold up to big spills. Spend a bit more on heavy-duty mats with raised edges if you’re messy like me.

Oil Drip Mat on Amazon

5. Harmonic Balancer Puller

Think of the harmonic balancer as a big stabilizer for your crankshaft. It’s more than just a pulley; it’s engineered to absorb vibrations. You typically have to yank it off to get to your timing components.

Must-Have Factor: 7/10
Typical Cost: $30–$80+
Why You Need It: Prevents you from doing the old “chisel and prybar” routine, which can wreck your balancer and bruise your knuckles.
Tips: Dedicated balancer pullers work better than generic three-jaw pullers. They don’t slip as easily.

Harmonic Balancer Puller on Amazon

6. Three-Jaw Puller

Sometimes your harmonic balancer puller isn’t the right fit for a random gear or stubborn pulley. That’s when a three-jaw puller steps up to the plate.

Must-Have Factor: 5/10
Typical Cost: $15–$80
Why You Need It: Versatility—removing pulleys, gears, and random stuck bits.
Tips: Position it carefully to avoid damaging surfaces. A little penetrating oil helps.

Three-Jaw Puller on Amazon

7. Carbide Scraper

Feel like you’re chiseling away at Jurassic rock when removing gaskets or sealant? A carbide scraper is the modern solution to that headache.

Must-Have Factor: 6/10
Typical Cost: $10–$50
Why You Need It: No more butter knives. Carbide stays sharp, so it digs through sealant without destroying your engine surface.
Tips: Use gentle pressure; you can gouge the metal if you’re too aggressive.

Carbide Scraper on Amazon

8. Plastigage

Strange name, awesome function. Plastigage is a waxy strip you place between bearings and journals to measure clearance.

Must-Have Factor: 8/10
Typical Cost: $10–$40
Why You Need It: You must confirm your bearing clearances during assembly. If it’s off, you’ll hear about it in the form of engine knock.
Tips: Keep surfaces clean. Measure carefully. Don’t reuse the strip.

Plastigage on Amazon

9. Feeler Gauge Set

Need to set valve lash or check your spark plug gaps? Feeler gauges are the unsung hero of the measurement world.

Must-Have Factor: 7/10
Typical Cost: $10–$60
Why You Need It: Ensures you nail down those precise clearances that keep your engine humming.
Tips: Keep each strip clean and stored properly—bent or dirty gauges give false readings.

Feeler Gauge Set on Amazon

10. Dial Bore Gauge

If you’re serious about rebuilding—especially if you’re double-checking cylinder bores—this is your accuracy weapon.

Must-Have Factor: 9/10
Typical Cost: $40–$200+
Why You Need It: Verifies your cylinder dimensions and bearing bores. When you aim for perfect ring seal, that’s a big deal.
Tips: Calibration is key. Make sure you zero it out using a known standard.

Dial Bore Gauge on Amazon

11. Straight Edge

Cylinder heads and deck surfaces can warp. A sturdy straight edge helps you spot trouble before you bolt everything back together.

Must-Have Factor: 6/10
Typical Cost: $10–$60
Why You Need It: Quick check for warpage—saves you from blown head gaskets down the road.
Tips: Keep it clean and store it carefully. Even a small ding can throw off its accuracy.

Straight Edge on Amazon

12. Dial Indicator with Magnetic Base

Whether you’re checking crankshaft endplay, camshaft runout, or even just verifying how square something is, a dial indicator is a precision must.

Must-Have Factor: 6/10
Typical Cost: $30–$150+
Why You Need It: Precise measurements of component movement or alignment.
Tips: Clean surfaces so the magnet can hold, and zero the indicator before measuring.

Dial Indicator with Magnetic Base on Amazon

13. Vacuum Pressure Gauge Kit

Not strictly essential for every teardown, but diagnosing weird leaks or verifying seals after a rebuild is easier with a vacuum gauge.

Must-Have Factor: 5/10
Typical Cost: $20–$100
Why You Need It: Finds vacuum leaks or sees if your engine is pulling the right vacuum.
Tips: Learn what normal vacuum readings look like for your engine. Deviations are a clue something’s off.

Vacuum Pressure Gauge Kit on Amazon

14. Vacuum Leak Down Tester

Cousin to the vacuum gauge kit. It’s better for diagnosing valves, piston rings, and cylinder seals. If you want to know exactly why your engine is losing compression, this is the tool.

Must-Have Factor: 7/10
Typical Cost: $50–$300
Why You Need It: Pinpoints internal leaks—valves, rings, or gaskets.
Tips: A consistent air supply is crucial. Weak compressors can skew your test.

Vacuum Leak Down Tester on Amazon

15. Mini Spring Tester

Hardcore builders or performance tinkerers often check if valve springs are up to spec. A mismatched or weak spring can lead to valve float at high RPM.

Must-Have Factor: 4/10
Typical Cost: $20–$80+
Why You Need It: Ensures you’re not mixing a weak spring into the valvetrain.
Tips: Follow instructions carefully, measure at the right height, and don’t compress the spring like you’re wrestling an alligator.

Mini Spring Tester on Amazon

16. Valve Spring Compressor (C-Clamp Style)

Don’t risk sending valve keepers flying across the garage. A proper valve spring compressor lets you remove and install springs safely.

Must-Have Factor: 8/10
Typical Cost: $20–$80
Why You Need It: Required for properly dismantling the cylinder head.
Tips: Position the compressor steadily, apply pressure slowly, and keep an eye on those keepers.

Valve Spring Compressor on Amazon

17. Piston Ring Filer

So you’ve got new rings? They might need adjusting to get the ideal gap. A piston ring filer lets you do that consistently.

Must-Have Factor: 7/10
Typical Cost: $20–$60+
Why You Need It: Proper ring gap is crucial for compression and preventing blow-by.
Tips: File slowly and measure often. Once you’ve gone too far, there’s no going back.

Piston Ring Filer on Amazon

18. Piston Ring Pliers

Don’t be the guy who snaps brand-new rings trying to muscle them on by hand. Ring pliers gently expand and slip them over the piston.

Must-Have Factor: 6/10
Typical Cost: $10–$40
Why You Need It: Avoid cracked rings and frantic runs to the parts store.
Tips: Slow, even pressure. Let the tool do the work.

Piston Ring Pliers on Amazon

19. Ring Compressor (Band Style)

Once the rings are on, you need to compress them to fit into the cylinder bores. Band-style compressors are the go-to for most hobbyists.

Must-Have Factor: 8/10
Typical Cost: $15–$40
Why You Need It: Protects the rings (and cylinder walls) as you guide pistons into place.
Tips: Snug the band firmly, lube the cylinder walls, and tap the piston gently into the bore.

Ring Compressor on Amazon

20. Torque Wrench

The King of engine tools, in my humble opinion. Torque specs aren’t suggestions; they’re life-or-death for your rebuild.

Must-Have Factor: 10/10
Typical Cost: $15–$200+
Why You Need It: Everything from rod bolts to head bolts depends on precise torque.
Tips: Don’t use it as a breaker bar. Check calibration occasionally, and store it in its case.

Torque Wrench on Amazon

Some bolts require torque-to-yield specs, which means you torque to a certain number, then turn them an additional angle.

Must-Have Factor: 7/10
Typical Cost: $20–$100
Why You Need It: Ensures uniform clamping on modern engines, especially aluminum blocks and heads.
Tips: Keep it aligned. Practice on a few junk bolts if you’ve never used one before.

Torque Angle Gauge on Amazon

22. Assembly Lube

No metal-on-metal contact before your oil pump starts circulating that sweet, sweet engine oil. Assembly lube coats critical surfaces so your brand-new bearings and cam lobes don’t get chewed up during the first seconds of startup.

Must-Have Factor: 8/10
Typical Cost: $5–$25
Why You Need It: Protects expensive components at their most vulnerable moment.
Tips: Use just enough to coat surfaces evenly. Too much can trap debris.

Permatex Ultra Slick Assembly Lube on Amazon

23. Thread Sealant with PTFE

For threaded fittings that carry fluids (oil, coolant, etc.), thread sealant is your friend. Nothing kills the mood like a freshly rebuilt engine…that’s leaking.

Must-Have Factor: 6/10
Typical Cost: $5–$10
Why You Need It: Creates a leak-proof seal. Also helps you remove fittings later without cursing your past self.
Tips: Don’t blob it everywhere. A thin, even coat on the male threads is enough.

Thread Sealant with PTFE on Amazon

24. Ridge Reamer

Cylinders get a small ridge at the top where the rings never touch. If you’re reusing your bore size, you’ll want a ridge reamer to shave that lip away before removing the pistons.

Must-Have Factor: 5/10 (especially if a machine shop is doing the bore work)
Typical Cost: $20–$100
Why You Need It: Prevents piston damage during removal and reinstall if you’re not overboring.
Tips: Go slow, don’t overdo it. Follow instructions to avoid gouging the cylinder wall.

Ridge Reamer on Amazon

25. Cylinder Hone (Ball or Stone)

If you’re freshening up cylinder walls, a hone deglazes the surface and creates that beautiful crosshatch pattern for new rings to seat. If you’re doing a big overbore or high-performance engine, let a machine shop handle the fancy stuff.

Must-Have Factor: 5/10 (or skip if the machine shop is doing it)
Typical Cost: $20–$100+
Why You Need It: Proper crosshatch ensures good oil retention and ring seal.
Tips: Use the right grit for your rings, and don’t hone too long—you can create tapers.

Ball Hone on Amazon
Stone Hone on Amazon

26. Freeze Plug Installer

Freeze plugs (sometimes called “core plugs”) block off the leftover openings from the engine’s casting process. If you’re refreshing your block, you might replace old, corroded freeze plugs.

Must-Have Factor: 4/10 (often left to machine shops)
Typical Cost: $10–$60
Why You Need It: Ensures a snug, damage-free fit.
Tips: Tapping them in crooked is the biggest mistake. Steady your aim and use gentle taps.

Freeze Plug Installer on Amazon

Taps and dies can “fix” threads but might remove metal if used incorrectly. A thread chaser is gentler—it cleans out debris and rust without cutting new threads.

Must-Have Factor: 5/10 (if your engine’s old and crusty, it’s a lifesaver)
Typical Cost: $15–$60
Why You Need It: Ensures accurate torque readings by clearing gunk out of bolt holes.
Tips: Line it up carefully to avoid cross-threading. Over-chasing can strip out threads.

Thread Chaser Kit on Amazon

28. Engine Rotating Tool

Sometimes you want to spin the crank by hand for checking clearances or installing certain components. Sure, you can put a socket on the crank snout. But a dedicated rotating tool offers more control.

Must-Have Factor: 4/10
Typical Cost: $20–$50+
Why You Need It: Smooth, consistent rotation—especially if you’re alone.
Tips: Remove spark plugs if you’re turning a mostly assembled engine. Compression can make it feel like you’re arm-wrestling a rhinoceros.

Engine Rotating Tool Option 1
Engine Rotating Tool Option 2

Bonus Tips & Wrap-Up

These are the main engine rebuild tools you’ll see me use on my 351 Windsor rebuild. Sure, there are some specialty doodads beyond this list, but if you’re new to the game, this covers about 95% of what you’ll need. Some folks might skip the dial bore gauge or vacuum tester if they’re letting a professional machine shop handle all the precision measuring, but I’m a big fan of learning how to do it yourself—just in case.

Remember, the most critical tool in your arsenal is knowledge. Learn the engine’s specs, read your workshop manual, watch a few videos (like the one on my channel), and don’t be afraid to ask questions. And hey, if you’re feeling overwhelmed by certain steps—like balancing the crank or cutting valve seats—there’s no shame in paying a professional. You can do part of the rebuild yourself and leave the specialized stuff to the machine shop.

In the end, picking the right engine tools is like picking a team: you want reliability, accuracy, and the confidence they’ll help you cross the finish line. Buy decent gear once, and it’ll pay for itself in peace of mind, consistent performance, and fewer midnight runs to the auto parts store.

Some of the links above are affiliate links. I earn a small commission if you purchase through them, which helps me buy more engine parts and keep my twin toddlers in mac ’n’ cheese. As always, I appreciate your support.