Archives April 2025

How can I convert my 1984 F250 2WD with Dana 61 to a 4WD system?


Bullnose Bill explaining the 1984 F250 2WD to 4WD conversion process.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Converting your 1984 F250 from 2WD to 4WD is quite the project! It’s a doable endeavor if you’ve got the time, tools, and determination. Let’s break down the process and the main components you’ll need to tackle.

Key Components Needed

  1. Front Axle:

    • You’ll need a solid Dana 44 or Dana 60 front axle, depending on the weight and intended use of your truck. The Dana 60 is heavier duty and might be preferable, especially for an F250.
    • Ensure you get the necessary radius arms, coil springs, and brackets.
  2. Transfer Case:

    • The NP205 is a solid choice for durability. You’ll need the appropriate transfer case adapter to mate with your existing T18 transmission.
    • Double-check your driveshaft lengths, as they will likely need to be custom made or sourced.
  3. Driveshafts:

    • Front and rear driveshafts will need adjusting or replacing to fit the new setup. Be prepared to have custom ones made or modified.
  4. Suspension and Steering:

    • 4WD conversion may require modifications to the suspension, such as installing leaf springs or converting to coil springs, depending on your front axle choice.
    • Steering components will need upgrading to handle the 4WD setup, like a steering box compatible with 4WD and potential linkages.
  5. Crossmember and Mounts:

    • Ensure you have the right crossmember and mounts for the transfer case. Fabrication might be necessary.

Steps for Conversion

  1. Planning and Research:

    • Gather parts and research thoroughly. Look for a donor truck if possible, as it can provide many of the necessary components in one go.
  2. Front Axle Installation:

    • Remove the existing 2WD front suspension and install the 4WD front axle. This might involve welding new brackets and modifying the frame slightly.
  3. Transfer Case and Transmission:

    • Remove the existing transmission if needed to install the transfer case adapter. Install the transfer case and ensure proper alignment and support.
  4. Driveshafts and Linkages:

    • Install or modify driveshafts to fit the new setup. Ensure the angles are correct to avoid vibrations.
  5. Steering and Brakes:

    • Update the steering linkages and ensure brakes are configured for the new axle setup. Consider upgrading to heavy-duty brakes if not already done.
  6. Testing and Adjusting:

    • Test drive and check for any unusual noises or behaviors. Adjust as necessary.

Pro Tips

  • Donor Truck: Finding a similar generation 4WD truck as a donor can save you time and hassle, especially for components like axles, transfer case, and linkages.

  • Documentation: Keep track of what changes you make and any custom work done for future reference or troubleshooting.

  • Community Resources: The Bullnose Ford subreddit is a great place to connect with others who may have tackled similar projects.

Converting to 4WD is a substantial project but can be highly rewarding, enhancing the capability and value of your truck. Good luck, and enjoy the process! If you need more detailed guidance along the way, feel free to ask.


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User:

Can a complete front HP Dana 44 with radius arms and steering linkage be installed on my 84 F250 2WD?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Converting your 1984 F250 from 2WD to 4WD isn’t exactly a simple bolt-on affair, but it’s definitely doable with the right parts and some elbow grease. Let’s dive into it.

Key Components for the Swap

  1. Front Axle: The high-pinion (HP) Dana 44 is a good choice for the front axle. However, it’s important to ensure you have the entire setup, including radius arms, coil springs, and steering linkage.

  2. Radius Arms and Mounts: If you’re going with the Dana 44 that comes with radius arms, you’ll need to install radius arm mounts to your frame. These aren’t typically present on a 2WD frame, so you’ll have to fabricate or source mounts that fit your specific setup.

  3. Crossmember Modifications: Some crossmember modifications may be necessary to clear the differential. Make sure to check for any clearance issues with your oil pan and engine crossmember.

  4. Drivetrain Considerations: Since you’ve got the T18 transmission, you’ll need a transfer case compatible with it. The NP205 is a popular choice due to its strength and gear-driven design. You’ll need the appropriate adapter for your T18.

  5. Driveshafts: Custom driveshafts will likely be needed to accommodate the new axle and transfer case setup.

  6. Steering Linkage: Ensure that your steering linkage matches up with the new axle setup. You may need to fabricate or source parts to ensure everything aligns correctly.

Potential Pitfalls

  • Alignment Issues: Proper alignment of the axle and radius arms is crucial for handling and tire wear. Double-check your measurements and mounts.

  • Brake Lines and Hoses: These will likely need extending or rerouting to accommodate the new axle setup.

  • Gear Ratios: Make sure your front and rear axle gear ratios match to avoid drivetrain binding.

Pro Tips

  • Sourcing Parts: Parts trucks or junkyards might have the axle and components you need. These can be cost-effective if you’re working on a budget.

  • Online Communities: Check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) for advice and experiences from folks who might have tackled similar projects.

Converting a 2WD to 4WD is a big project but rewarding if you’re looking to improve your truck’s capability. If you need more detailed guidance, there may be a related video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that could help. Good luck, and don’t hesitate to reach out if more questions pop up!

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User:

Do you have a video link that covers the 1984 F250 2WD to 4WD swap?

Bill avatar
Bill:

I don’t have direct access to link specific videos, but the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel is a fantastic resource. I recommend heading over there and searching for terms like "2WD to 4WD conversion" or "Dana 44 swap" related to Bullnose Ford trucks. There’s a good chance you’ll find some detailed guidance or a relevant video covering aspects of the swap. Plus, it’s always worth checking out their playlists for related topics. Happy wrenching!

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User:

I appreciate your help.

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re welcome! If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask. Enjoy working on your Bullnose, and good luck with the conversion!

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User:

Will a Dana 44 TTB front end fit in place of the 2WD twin eye beam arms using the current cross member?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Swapping a Dana 44 Twin-Traction Beam (TTB) front end into a 2WD F250 using the existing crossmember isn’t a straightforward bolt-in swap. Here’s what you need to consider:

Key Considerations

  1. Crossmember Compatibility: The 2WD twin I-beam setup has a different crossmember design compared to the 4WD TTB setup. You’d need to modify or replace the crossmember to accommodate the Dana 44 TTB. This often involves cutting, welding, and fabricating new mounts.

  2. Radius Arm Brackets: The TTB system uses different radius arm brackets than the 2WD beams. You’ll need to source or fabricate these brackets and ensure they’re properly mounted to the frame.

  3. Coil Springs and Mounts: The coil springs and their mounts will differ between the 2WD and 4WD setups. You’ll need to make sure you have the correct spring perches and mounts for the TTB system.

  4. Drivetrain Adjustments: If this swap is part of a 4WD conversion, don’t forget to address the transfer case and driveshafts, as well as ensuring matched gear ratios between the front and rear axles.

  5. Steering Components: The steering linkage for the TTB will be different. You’ll need to adapt or replace these to work with your current steering setup.

Potential Pitfalls

  • Frame Modifications: Be prepared for some significant frame work to mount everything securely. This isn’t a task for the faint of heart and might require professional fabrication assistance.

  • Alignment Challenges: Make sure to set up the front end alignment correctly after the swap to avoid handling issues.

Pro Tips

  • Donor Vehicles: Consider finding a donor truck with a complete TTB setup to simplify sourcing parts.

  • Measurement and Planning: Take precise measurements and plan your modifications to avoid any surprises during the swap.

Converting from a 2WD to a TTB 4WD system can be complex, but with careful planning and the right resources, it’s achievable. If you need more visual guidance, I’d check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for similar projects—they might have a video that helps. Best of luck!

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User:

Thank you for your assistance.

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re welcome! If you have any more questions or run into any issues, feel free to reach out. Enjoy the project and keep those wheels turning!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What challenges should I expect when swapping a 460 engine and F250 axles into my 1987 F150?


Bullnose Bill explains modifications for a 1987 F150 with F250 parts.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Hey there! That sounds like an exciting project you’ve got going on! Dropping a big-block 460 with a 5-speed transmission into your ’87 F-150 is sure to give you some serious power and performance.

Now, while it’s an awesome upgrade, there are a few things you should keep in mind:

  1. Engine Mounts: The 460 is a lot bigger than your stock engine, so you might need to get custom engine mounts or modify your existing ones to fit the new engine. Check the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for some tips on fabbing mounts if you’re going that route.

  2. Transmission Fitment: The 5-speed transmission will likely require some modification to the crossmember and possibly the driveshaft. Make sure to measure the length and check the alignment to avoid any surprises.

  3. Axle Compatibility: Since you’re using the axles from an ’89 F-250, ensure that the axle widths accommodate your F-150 frame well. Be mindful of the gear ratios too, as you’ll want to match the 460’s power band for optimal performance.

  4. Wiring: The 460 will also have a different wiring setup, especially if you’re using a later model transmission. You might need to do some re-wiring or adapt the harness to fit everything nicely.

  5. Cooling: With all that extra power, consider your cooling system too. The stock radiator might struggle to keep a big-block engine cool, so you might want to look into an upgrade.

  6. Braking System: The added weight and power will necessitate a good braking system. Upgrading to a more robust brake setup can help ensure safety.

Before you dive in, it might be worth checking out some discussions on the Bullnose Ford subreddit for insights from folks who’ve done similar swaps. It’s a great community, and you might find some valuable tips!

Best of luck with your build! If you run into any specific issues or questions, feel free to ask. I’m here to help!


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User:

I appreciate your insights. I’m concerned about the issues you raised. The F250 was rolled, but its frame remains straight. Should I consider placing the F150 body onto the F250 chassis instead?

Bill avatar

Bill:

You’re very welcome! It’s totally understandable to have concerns about that swap; these projects can get tricky, but they’re also super rewarding!

Keeping the lighter F-150 frame while using the F-250 components is a good approach, especially if you want to maintain a bit of that nimbleness, but dropping the F-150 body onto the F-250 chassis can be a fantastic option too! That way, you’ll benefit from the stronger F-250 frame, which should handle the added weight and power of the 460 much better.

Here are some things to consider if you decide to go that route:

  1. Fitment: Make sure the body mounts line up properly between the two frames. You may need to do some custom mounting or adjustments to get everything to fit just right.

  2. Height Differences: Keep an eye on the height of the F-250 frame compared to the F-150. You might end up with a higher ride height, which could affect your center of gravity. Adjusting the suspension could help to level things out.

  3. Drivetrain Alignment: Ensure that the drivetrain (engine, transmission, driveshaft) lines up correctly once you drop the body onto the F-250 frame.

  4. Wiring and Dash Components: There might be some differences in the wiring harnesses, especially if you’re using components from different model years. Just make sure to document everything for a smoother install.

  5. Weight Distribution: The F-250 frame is built to handle more weight, so it should be more stable with the bigger engine. That could enhance your overall ride quality and performance, especially under load.

  6. Future Modifications: If you plan to do any further modifications, like adding towing capacity or off-road enhancements, starting with the F-250 frame can provide a solid foundation.

You’re on the right track thinking about these options! Whatever you decide, it’s bound to be an impressive build. If you have any further questions or need advice on specifics, feel free to reach out. Happy wrenching!

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User:

My main focus is off-road capability. What should I consider for the suspension upgrade next?

Bill avatar

Bill:

That sounds like a blast! Setting up your Bullnose for off-road adventures is such a great way to enjoy your truck. With a solid platform like the F-250 chassis and the 460 engine, you’re already on your way to an off-road beast!

When it comes to suspension, here are some key points to keep in mind:

  1. Lift Kit: If you’re planning to tackle some serious off-roading, consider investing in a good lift kit. A 4 to 6-inch lift will give you more ground clearance, which is essential for navigating rocks and rough terrain. Plus, it’ll allow you to fit larger tires.

  2. Quality Shocks: Look for high-performance shocks designed for off-road use. They’ll help absorb the impact from bumps and rugged trails. Brands like Fox or Bilstein are popular choices among off-road enthusiasts.

  3. Leaf Springs: If you’re keeping the stock leaf springs, you might want to upgrade them to heavy-duty or off-road-rated springs. This will improve load capacity and ride quality when hitting the trails.

  4. Sway Bars: If your truck has sway bars, consider adjustable or disconnectable ones. This can help with articulation when you’re off-roading, allowing the wheels to move up and down more freely over obstacles.

  5. Tires: Don’t forget about the tires! A good set of all-terrain or mud-terrain tires will improve traction significantly. Make sure they fit within your wheel wells after lifting the truck.

  6. Alignment: After making any suspension changes, get a proper alignment. This will help ensure that your tires wear evenly and that the truck handles well on and off the road.

  7. Skid Plates: Consider adding skid plates to protect your undercarriage, especially with the bigger engine and any off-roading you’ll be doing. This will help you avoid damage from rocks and uneven surfaces.

If you’re looking for inspiration, check out some off-road builds on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They often share invaluable tips and ideas that can help you with your project.

Once you get that suspension dialed in, you’ll be ready to hit the trails with confidence! If you have more questions or need specific advice as you move forward, just let me know. I’m here to help!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the steps to convert a column shifter to a floor shifter in a Bullnose F-150 with an NP435 transmission?


Bullnose Bill explaining the column to floor shifter conversion for Ford F-150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Swapping from a column shifter to a floor shifter in your Bullnose F-150 with an NP435 transmission is a fantastic way to modernize the driving experience and give your truck a fresh look! It’s a rewarding project that can really enhance your classic ride. Let’s dive into the steps you’ll need to follow!

1. Gather Your Tools and Parts

  • Tools Needed:
    • Wrenches and sockets (various sizes)
    • Screwdrivers
    • Pliers
    • Torque wrench
    • Drill (if needed for mounting brackets)
  • Parts Needed:
    • Floor shifter kit specific for the NP435 (you can find these online or at your local parts store)
    • Shifter boot and plate
    • Linkage kit (if not included with the shifter kit)

2. Remove the Column Shifter

  • Start by disconnecting the battery. Safety first!
  • Remove the steering column cover and any trim pieces that may obstruct access to the shifter.
  • Disconnect the linkage from the column shifter to the transmission. Depending on your setup, you might need to unbolt a few parts.
  • Carefully remove the column shifter by unbolting it from the steering column.

3. Prepare the Floor

  • Remove the carpet to access the floor. This will also help you see where to place the new shifter.
  • Depending on the shifter kit you choose, you might need to drill holes for mounting brackets. Be sure to measure twice to avoid any mistakes!

4. Install the Floor Shifter

  • Follow the instructions from your floor shifter kit. You’ll typically mount the shifter base to the floor using the provided brackets.
  • Install the shifter lever and ensure it moves freely without obstruction.
  • Connect the linkage from the new floor shifter to the NP435 transmission. Make sure everything is tight and secured to prevent any rattling or misalignment.

5. Fit the Shifter Boot and Trim

  • Once everything is installed, position the boot over the shifter base and secure it to the floor. This will help keep dirt and debris out of the shifter assembly.
  • Reinstall any trim pieces that were removed and make sure everything looks neat.

6. Reconnect the Battery and Test

  • Reconnect your battery and start the truck. Take it for a test drive to ensure the shifter operates smoothly and that the linkage is correctly adjusted.

7. Final Checks

  • After a short drive, double-check all bolts and connections to ensure nothing has come loose.

Additional Tips:

  • If you haven’t done any shifter swaps before, consider watching a video tutorial for visual guidance. The Bullnose Garage YouTube channel often has practical tips and walkthroughs that can help you through this process!
  • Don’t hesitate to reach out to the community on the Bullnose Ford subreddit if you have any specific questions or run into issues.

This project might take a bit of time, but the satisfaction of shifting through those gears on the floor is well worth it. Happy wrenching! If you have any more questions or need clarification, feel free to ask!


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User:

Which floor shifter kits are recommended for this conversion?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Absolutely! There are a few solid options out there for floor shifter kits that work well with the NP435 transmission in your Bullnose F-150. Here are a couple of recommendations:

1. Hurst Shifter Kits

  • Hurst offers a great reputation and quality when it comes to shifters. Their kits are well-engineered and provide a smooth, positive shift feel. Look for their specific NP435 shifter kit; it should include everything you need for a straightforward installation.

2. B&M Floor Shifter Kits

  • B&M is another popular choice among gearheads. They have a variety of shifter kits that are compatible with the NP435. Their products typically come with detailed instructions, making installation easier for DIYers.

3. Lokar Shifter Kits

  • If you’re looking for something with a bit more style, Lokar offers shifter kits that boast a vintage look with modern performance. Their kits often come with a variety of options for knobs and finishes, allowing you to customize the interior of your Bullnose.

4. DIY Solutions

  • If you’re feeling adventurous, some enthusiasts opt for a custom or DIY approach using generic shifter components. You’ll need to source parts that work with NP435 and ensure proper linkage, but this can lead to a unique setup tailored to your preferences.

Where to Buy

You can typically find these kits online at major auto parts retailers like Summit Racing, Jegs, or even Amazon. Local hot rod shops might also have them in stock.

Each kit will have its own set of instructions, so be sure to read through those carefully. And, as always, check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for any install tips or tricks that might help you along the way. Happy swapping, and let me know if you need anything else!

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User:

Is it necessary to cover the old column shifter holes?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Yes, you’ll definitely want to plug the old holes where the column shifter was mounted once you’ve completed the swap to a floor shifter. This will help maintain a clean appearance in your interior and prevent any unwanted debris or moisture from entering the cab. Here are a couple of options for addressing those holes:

1. Rubber or Plastic Plugs

  • You can find rubber or plastic plugs at most auto parts stores or online. These are designed to fit various hole sizes and can be a quick and effective way to seal off the old holes.

2. Metal or Fabricated Plates

  • If you want a more permanent and aesthetically pleasing solution, consider fabricating a small plate or using a metal cover to seal the holes. You can paint it to match your interior or use a simple black or silver finish for a clean look.

3. Body Filler

  • For a more involved approach, you could use body filler to fill the holes completely, then sand and paint the area to match your truck’s interior. This method requires more work but can result in a seamless finish.

Final Tip

Make sure whatever method you choose is secure and weather-resistant, especially if your truck sees any outdoor use. Keeping your Bullnose looking sharp is half the fun! If you need more tips or have other questions, feel free to ask!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Published on April 24, 2025

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Show Transcript

Hey guys, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And you may have noticed I’m not posting as much lately as I have been in the recent past, and that’s just because of the time of year that it is. Spring and summer, man, there’s so much going on. I got a huge honeydew list, and, uh, you know, we got a bunch of stuff to go to: birthday parties, Easter stuff, man, it’s crazy. I haven’t had a free weekend in, well, pretty much since I put out my last video, and that’s not going to change anytime soon.

So, uh, I really do want to keep working on stuff. I do plan on it, I just haven’t had time. And you can see right here, the engine is pretty much still in one piece, and that’s like the biggest thing that I want to do, but I haven’t had a chance. So to make it up to you guys, um, I made you this quick little music video. Now I know what you’re going to say: Ed, if you have time to make a music video, you got time to, uh, make a regular video too. Well, no, because this music video was, uh, written and produced completely by AI. So enjoy, um, this completely tongue-in-cheek, over-the-top AI fever dream of a music video.

Just a guy in his truck being judged from afar by thousands of people on YouTube. I’m swapping out my inline six for a 408 stroke, but you’d think I kicked my dog or took a shot at the Pope. Purists crying mortal sin in social circles online, calling me a hacker, whack, and say I’m wasting my time. They say, ‘Boy, you flap your gums way more than you wrench.’ Well, I call that content, not just riding the bench. I film in the garage, do voiceovers in the hall. My kid walked in mid-take, now she’s famous, y’all.

Just so you know, I ain’t building it for you. I’m building it for the dude I was when I was 22, that young broke kid dreaming chrome and steel, watching Dukes of Hazard, saying someday I will. Making content ain’t a walk in the park, all right? I film my edit till well after dark. You hit play once I’ve sat through take 22, so before you judge, remember I ain’t doing it for you.

Got a comment last night said, ‘I ain’t got smarts, but my truck runs fine.’ And the channel buys parts. ‘You’ll ruin that truck,’ they cry from the couch, looking like a judgmental Oscar the Grouch. Half my comments say I’m doing it wrong, and the other half ask why I’m taking so long. But I like the challenge, making sure it’s done right, and I like free parts or cash on the side. I write the scripts, run the site, shoot the vids, fix the trucks, then some joker shows up griping about my AI crutch.

Yeah, I use some AI, so what’s the crime? It don’t wrench the bolts, just saves me time. Son, I’m using AI to help, why is that so wrong? Ain’t nobody got time, hell, I wrote this song. You gripe that I’m slow, then gripe when I get an assist. Maybe gripe less and check something off your own damn list. I torque when I can, but the kids come first. Long days, long nights, flu season’s the worst.

The truck’s been almost done since the 4th of July, but dreams don’t have deadlines, and neither do I. Got a Bronco in the yard, yes, she runs like trash. Truck in the garage, he runs, just not that fast. People say, ‘Man, you ever going to get it done?’ Right after dinner, bath time, and a Bluey rerun.

Just so you know, I ain’t building it for you. I’m building it for the dude I was when I was 22, that young broke kid dreaming chrome and steel, watching Dukes of Hazard, saying, ‘Someday I will.’ So call me slow, call me clueless, or maybe even insane, but I’m making smoking magic for the kid in my brain. And when she roars into life as the dream comes true, you’ll know without question I didn’t build it for you.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I have to torque a head bolt, find a juice box. Where’d I put that camera? Is this thing on?

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage. So, you might’ve noticed I’ve been a bit MIA on the content front lately. You know how it is; life gets busy, especially when you’re juggling a full-time job, a family, and the endless list of things that pop up in the spring and summer. I swear, I haven’t had a free weekend since my last video dropped. But hey, I still wanted to give you guys something entertaining, so I cooked up a little something different this time: an AI-generated country rap music video.

What the Heck is This?

Alright, let’s get this out of the way. This isn’t your typical Bullnose Garage content. It’s called “I Didn’t Build It For You,” and it’s a tongue-in-cheek country rap track that sprang to life thanks to some AI tools like Suno and Sora. Think of it as a fever dream with a dash of sarcasm, inspired by the delightful world of YouTube comments, slow truck builds, and the joys of fatherhood.

The video is a bit of a parody, poking fun at the endless stream of feedback I get from viewers. You know the type: the ones who think they know better while munching on Cheetos from the comfort of their couch. To those folks, let me just say, “I didn’t build it for you.”

Behind the Lyrics

The lyrics are a playful nod to the critics and armchair mechanics who love to tell me what I’m doing wrong. It’s funny how people are quick to judge when they’re not the ones getting their hands dirty. The song talks about swapping out my inline six for a 408 stroker and the uproar it caused among the purists. Apparently, some folks think I’m committing automotive blasphemy.

The Magic of AI

Now, before you roll your eyes and say, “Ed, if you have time to make a music video, you could make a regular one,” let me stop you right there. This whole music video was written and produced by AI. Yep, that’s right. I let the robots do the heavy lifting for this one. It’s a wild, over-the-top experiment, and honestly, I had a blast seeing what the AI could come up with.

Before you start accusing me of cheating, let me clarify: the AI doesn’t turn wrenches. It just saves me some time, and as any busy parent can tell you, that’s worth its weight in gold. I still plan to get back into the garage and work on that engine rebuild, just as soon as life gives me a break.

A Little Lighthearted Fun

At the end of the day, “I Didn’t Build It For You” is all about having a good laugh and not taking things too seriously. Whether you’re in it for the laughs or just scratching your head at the AI-generated chickens, I’m glad you’re here for the ride. Remember, it’s not about meeting deadlines or pleasing everyone. It’s about doing what you love, even if it takes a while to get there.

Wrap-Up

So, if you’re curious or just need a good chuckle, go ahead and check out the video. It’s a bit silly, a bit sarcastic, and a whole lot of fun. I might not have built it for you, but I sure hope it gives you a smile. Let me know what you think, and as always, keep wrenching and keep dreaming.

Catch you later!


Bullnose Garage at YouTube

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

How prone are 1980-1986 Ford Bullnose trucks to rusting?


Bullnose Bill explaining rust issues in Ford Bullnose trucks from 1980-1986.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Ah, the age-old question of rust! Like many classic vehicles, Bullnose Fords are certainly prone to rust, especially if they’ve been exposed to harsh weather conditions or road salt over the years. The key areas to watch for rust include:

  1. Wheel Wells: These can trap moisture and dirt, leading to rust development.
  2. Cab Corners and Rocker Panels: These areas are notorious for rust due to their proximity to the road and water spray.
  3. Frame: While the frame is generally sturdy, it can still develop rust, especially if the truck has been driven in wet conditions without proper care.
  4. Bed: The bed can also be susceptible, especially if it has been used for hauling materials that retain moisture.

To combat rust, regular maintenance is crucial. Here are a few tips:

  • Wash Your Truck: Regularly wash the underside, especially during winter months to remove salt and grime.
  • Inspect and Repair: Keep an eye on vulnerable areas and address any rust spots early. A little preventative work can save you a lot of headaches later.
  • Rustproofing: Consider using a rustproofing treatment if you live in an area where rust is a concern.

It’s all about keeping an eye out and being proactive! And if you’re looking for more insights or some DIY fixes, the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel has some excellent tips on rust repair that you might find helpful. Happy wrenching!


User avatar

User:

Is surface rust a concern for my Ford Bullnose truck?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Surface rust is definitely something to keep an eye on, but it’s not always a cause for alarm! If you catch it early, you can often address it before it becomes a bigger issue. Here are a few key points about surface rust on your Bullnose:

What to Look For

  • Appearance: Surface rust usually appears as light discoloration or patches of rust on the metal. If it’s just a small spot, you might not need to panic.
  • Location: Check common areas like the fenders, the bed, and the frame. If it’s on a non-structural part, you have a bit more leeway.

Should You Worry?

  • Yes, but gently: While surface rust can often be treated without major repairs, ignoring it can lead to deeper rust issues. If it spreads, it could compromise the integrity of the metal.
  • Rust Prevention: If you see it, clean it up before it gets worse. You can use sandpaper or a wire brush to remove the rust, then apply primer and paint to protect the bare metal.

Remedies

  • DIY Fixes: If you’re comfortable, you can handle these small fixes yourself. It’s a great project to tackle on a weekend! Just grab some supplies from your local auto parts store.
  • Professional Help: If the rust has spread a bit more than you’d like or you’re not sure about your skills, it’s always a good idea to consult with a professional.

Remember, keeping your Bullnose looking its best is part of the fun! Plus, it’ll help maintain that classic charm. If you’re ever unsure, you can always check out resources like the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for more hands-on advice. Happy truckin’!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What maintenance should I perform on my 1984 F150 XLT with low mileage?


Bullnose Bill explaining maintenance tips for a 1984 Ford F150 XLT.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Nice choice with the 1984 F-150 XLT! The 351 H.O. paired with a 4-speed automatic in a 4×4 setup is a solid combination for both power and versatility.

What kind of advice or assistance are you looking for? Are you thinking about maintenance, a repair project, or maybe some modifications? Let me know how I can help you get the most out of your Bullnose!


User avatar

User:

Can you provide a maintenance checklist for a 1984 F150 XLT with low mileage that has been sitting for a long time?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Absolutely, getting your 1984 F-150 up to snuff after sitting for a while is a fantastic project! Here’s a handy checklist to help you tackle the maintenance and cleaning. We’ll break it down into categories so you can keep organized.

1. Fluids

  • Engine Oil: Change the oil and filter. Use a high-quality oil suitable for older engines.
  • Transmission Fluid: Check the level and condition. If it’s dark or smells burnt, it’s time for a change.
  • Coolant: Flush the cooling system and replace with fresh coolant.
  • Brake Fluid: Check for moisture and replace if necessary.
  • Power Steering Fluid: Top off if low; consider a change if it’s been a while.
  • Differential Fluid: Inspect and replace if it’s been too long since the last change.

2. Filters

  • Air Filter: Replace to improve airflow to the engine.
  • Fuel Filter: Change this to ensure clean fuel delivery.
  • Cabin Filter: Replace if equipped; it helps with air quality inside.

3. Belts and Hoses

  • Inspect Belts: Look for cracks or wear. Replace if any signs of damage are found.
  • Check Hoses: Look for leaks, cracks, or bulging; replace as necessary.

4. Brake System

  • Inspect Brake Pads and Rotors: Check for wear and replace if they’re too thin.
  • Brake Lines: Look for corrosion or leaks in the lines.

5. Suspension and Steering

  • Shocks/Struts: Inspect for leaks or wear.
  • Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends: Check for play or damage.
  • Bushings: Examine for cracking or wear.

6. Tires

  • Check Tread Depth: Ensure they’re safe to drive on.
  • Inspect Sidewalls: Look for cracks or bulges.
  • Check Alignment: After sitting, it’s a good idea to check the alignment.

7. Electrical System

  • Battery: Check charge and connections; clean corrosion off terminals.
  • Lights: Test all lights, including headlights, brake lights, and turn signals.
  • Fuses: Check for any blown fuses.

8. Cleaning

  • Exterior Wash and Wax: Give the truck a good wash and apply wax to protect the paint.
  • Interior Cleaning: Vacuum and clean the interior; consider treating vinyl or leather surfaces.
  • Underbody Cleaning: If accessible, clean the undercarriage to remove any dirt or rust.

9. Inspection

  • Check for Rust: Look under the truck, especially in the wheel wells and frame.
  • Listen for Unusual Noises: While driving, pay attention to any odd sounds that could indicate issues.

10. Miscellaneous

  • Documentation: Keep a maintenance log for future reference.
  • Test Drive: Take it for a spin and pay attention to how it feels and sounds.

Once you’ve gone through this checklist, you should have a solid foundation to enjoy your Bullnose for many more miles! Feel free to reach out if you have specific questions on any of these points, and don’t forget to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for some great visual guides. Happy wrenching!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.