Archives June 2025

What causes the fuel mileage drop in a 1984 Ford F250 6.9 IDI from 20-25 to 15-16?


Bullnose Bill discussing fuel mileage issues in a 1984 Ford F250.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Hey there! It sounds like you’re dealing with a bit of a fuel economy drop on your classic ’84 F250. That can be frustrating, but let’s break it down together and see what might be going on.

Possible Causes for Fuel Mileage Drop

  1. Air Filter: A clogged air filter can restrict airflow, causing the engine to run less efficiently. Make sure it’s clean or replace it if it looks dirty.

  2. Fuel Filter: Just like the air filter, a dirty fuel filter can hinder fuel flow, impacting performance and economy. If it hasn’t been changed recently, that’s a good place to start.

  3. Injectors: The 6.9 IDI is a solid engine, but if the fuel injectors are getting clogged or aren’t functioning properly, they can affect fuel atomization and overall efficiency. You might consider cleaning or replacing them.

  4. Tire Pressure: Sometimes, simply checking your tire pressure can yield surprising results. If your tires are under-inflated, it can significantly impact fuel economy.

  5. Driving Habits: Changes in how you drive can also affect gas mileage. Rapid acceleration, heavy loads, or driving at high speeds can all decrease fuel economy.

  6. Exhaust System: A clogged or damaged exhaust system can restrict the engine’s ability to expel gases, which can lead to decreased performance and fuel efficiency. Make sure there are no blockages or leaks.

  7. Engine Timing: If the timing is off, it can lead to inefficient combustion and lower fuel efficiency. Checking and adjusting the timing could help.

  8. Weight and Load: If you’re hauling heavier loads or added weight, that could definitely make a difference in fuel economy.

Next Steps

  • Start with the easiest and cheapest fixes, like checking the air and fuel filters.
  • Keep an eye on your driving habits and tire pressures.
  • If the problem persists, consider consulting a mechanic who specializes in diesels or older Ford trucks to get a more detailed analysis.

If you’re looking for more tips or a community to engage with, I recommend checking out the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford. There are plenty of knowledgeable folks who can share their experiences and advice.

I hope this helps you get back to that sweet 20-25 MPG range! Let me know if you have any more questions or if there’s something specific you want to dive into further.


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User:

Which air cleaner do you recommend for improved performance?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Absolutely! For your ’84 F250 with the 6.9 IDI, upgrading the air cleaner can help improve airflow and potentially boost your fuel economy. Here are a couple of options that are popular among enthusiasts:

1. K&N Air Filter:

K&N offers a washable and reusable air filter that can improve airflow compared to the stock filter. It’s designed to increase horsepower and acceleration while also providing excellent filtration. Just remember to clean and re-oil it regularly.

2. Spectre Performance Air Filter:

Another solid option is the Spectre air filter. They offer a variety of sizes and styles, including some that fit right into your existing air cleaner assembly. Like the K&N, it’s washable and reusable.

3. Stock Replacement Filter:

If you prefer to stick with the original setup, you can always go for a quality stock replacement filter. Brands like Motorcraft and Wix make good options that meet OEM standards.

Installation Tip:

When installing a new air filter, ensure that it fits snugly and check for any leaks in the air intake system. A good seal is crucial to preventing unfiltered air from entering the engine.

Upgrading to a high-flow air cleaner can often lead to noticeable improvements in both performance and fuel efficiency, especially when combined with a clean fuel filter and proper maintenance.

If you want to see more about how these filters can make a difference, you might find some useful insights on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel or other Ford enthusiast forums.

If you have more questions or need specific part numbers, just let me know! Happy wrenching!

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User:

I appreciate your help.

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re very welcome! If you have any more questions in the future about your Bullnose or anything else, feel free to reach out. Enjoy working on your F250, and happy driving! 😊🚚

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User:

What is the best block heater option for a 6.9 engine?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great question! Keeping your 6.9 IDI warm during those cold winter months is a smart move, especially if you want to ensure a smooth start and protect your engine. Here are a couple of solid options for block heaters that work well with the 6.9 IDI:

1. Frost Plug Heater

A popular choice for many owners is the frost plug heater, which replaces one of the engine’s frost plugs. This type of heater is efficient and provides even heat distribution. Make sure to choose one that matches the size of your frost plug and is rated for your engine.

2. Oil Pan Heater

Another good option is an oil pan heater. These heaters attach to the bottom of the oil pan and warm the oil, making it easier for the engine to turn over in cold weather. This can be especially helpful for diesel engines like the 6.9, which can be harder to start in freezing temperatures.

Installation Tips:

  • Frost Plug Heater: This will typically involve some engine disassembly, so if you’re not comfortable with that, you might want to seek the help of a mechanic.
  • Oil Pan Heater: They are generally easier to install and can usually be done without removing anything major. Just follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Where to Buy

You can find these heaters at auto parts stores or online. Brands like Zerostart and Block Heater from companies like Phillips and Frost Plug are commonly recommended.

Remember to always plug in your heater a few hours before starting your engine in cold weather to maximize its effectiveness.

If you’re looking for some visual guides or additional tips, you might want to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for more insights from the community.

Feel free to ask if you have more questions or need assistance with anything else! Stay warm out there! ❄️🚚

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User:

How can I fix a non-working temperature gauge?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Ah, a non-functioning temperature gauge can be a bit concerning, especially with a diesel like your 6.9 IDI. Let’s troubleshoot the issue together!

Possible Causes for a Non-Working Temperature Gauge

  1. Faulty Sending Unit: The temperature sending unit (or sender) is responsible for transmitting the engine temperature to the gauge. If it’s faulty, the gauge won’t read correctly. It’s worth checking this first.

  2. Wiring Issues: Bad connections or damaged wires between the sending unit and the gauge can cause the gauge to stop working. Inspect the wiring for any signs of wear or corrosion.

  3. Gauge Malfunction: Sometimes the gauge itself can fail. If everything else checks out, you might need to test or replace the gauge.

  4. Ground Issues: A poor ground connection can also lead to erratic or non-functioning gauges. Ensure that the ground wires are clean and securely connected.

  5. Coolant Levels: While less common, if your coolant level is extremely low, it can affect the sending unit’s ability to read temperatures accurately. Always check your coolant levels as part of your troubleshooting.

Troubleshooting Steps

  1. Check the Sending Unit: You can test the sending unit with a multimeter. If it’s not giving the right readings, it may need to be replaced.

  2. Inspect Wiring: Look for any frayed or disconnected wires. Make sure the connections are tight and free of corrosion.

  3. Test the Gauge: If you have access to another gauge (or a diagnostic tool that can read temperature), you can swap it out temporarily to see if the problem lies with the gauge itself.

  4. Check the Ground: Locate the ground connections related to the gauge and ensure they are clean and tight.

Final Thoughts

If you’re still having trouble after checking these items, you might consider consulting a mechanic who specializes in older Fords or diesels for a more in-depth diagnosis. It’s always good to have a second set of eyes when you’re dealing with electrical components!

And if you’re looking for community advice or shared experiences, the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford is a great place to connect with fellow Bullnose enthusiasts!

Let me know if you have any more questions or if there’s anything else you’d like to dive into!

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User:

Is a 454 engine swap feasible for a Ford truck?

Bill avatar
Bill:

While swapping a Chevy 454 engine into a Ford truck sounds like an intriguing project, it’s quite a significant undertaking, especially with the classic Bullnose models. Here’s a quick rundown of what you’d need to consider:

Key Considerations for a 454 Swap into a Ford

  1. Engine Mounts: The 454 will not bolt directly into your Ford’s engine mounts. You will need to fabricate or purchase custom engine mounts to fit the Chevy engine into your Ford chassis.

  2. Transmission Compatibility: The transmission that mates with the 454 (typically a Turbo 400 or similar) might not align with your existing driveshaft and transmission crossmember. You may need a different transmission or an adapter kit.

  3. Wiring and Electronics: The wiring harness for the 454 will be different from your Ford’s setup. You’ll need to rewire or adapt your existing harness to accommodate the Chevy engine’s sensors and ignition system.

  4. Cooling System: The radiator may not be sufficient for the 454, so you might need a larger one to handle the increased heat output. Also, ensure that the fan shroud fits properly.

  5. Exhaust: Custom exhaust headers or manifolds will likely be necessary, as the stock Ford exhaust will not fit the Chevy engine.

  6. Performance Considerations: A 454 swap can provide significant horsepower and torque, but ensure your rear axle and drivetrain can handle the increased power. Upgrading to a stronger rear end might be necessary.

Legal and Emissions Concerns

Depending on your location, there may be legal or emissions regulations to consider. Check local laws to see if you need to adhere to specific emissions standards with the swap.

Alternative Thoughts

While a 454 swap is certainly doable, many Bullnose enthusiasts prefer to stick with Ford engines or even upgrade to a newer Ford powerplant for better reliability and ease of integration. The 460 big block is a popular choice among Ford fans and might provide you with the power you’re looking for while maintaining some brand consistency.

If you’re set on the 454, make sure to plan thoroughly and perhaps consult with others who have done similar swaps. You can find valuable insights and shared experiences on forums or the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford.

If you have any more questions or need further assistance with your project, feel free to ask! Happy wrenching! 💪🔧

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User:

What is the ideal size for a straight pipe on a 6.9?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Straight-piping your 6.9 IDI can definitely give it that deep, rumbling sound many truck enthusiasts crave, along with potential performance benefits. However, choosing the right pipe size is crucial for maximizing efficiency and maintaining engine performance.

Recommended Pipe Size

For the 6.9 IDI, a 3-inch diameter straight pipe is generally considered the best option. This size strikes a good balance, offering improved exhaust flow without being overly large, which could lead to a loss of back pressure and negatively impact performance, especially at lower RPMs.

Considerations for Straight Piping

  1. Muffler: If you’re going completely straight pipe, consider whether you want a muffler at all. Some folks love the loud, aggressive sound, while others prefer something a bit quieter. If you want a bit of sound dampening without sacrificing too much performance, a performance muffler can be a good compromise.

  2. Exhaust Layout: Make sure your piping is routed properly to avoid any clearance issues with the chassis, suspension components, or fuel lines.

  3. Heat Management: Straight pipes can run hotter than those with mufflers. Ensure that the exhaust routing keeps heat away from sensitive components.

  4. Legal Considerations: Keep in mind that some areas have noise regulations. A straight pipe can be pretty loud, so check local laws to avoid any potential run-ins with law enforcement.

Installation Tips

  • If you’re doing this yourself, having a pipe bender or a professional exhaust shop can help ensure clean bends and proper alignment.
  • Use high-temperature exhaust clamps and ensure all connections are secure to avoid leaks.

If you’re looking for some visual guidance or tips from others who’ve done a similar setup, the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel might offer some insights on exhaust modifications.

Feel free to reach out if you have more questions or need further assistance! Happy modifying! 🚚💨

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User:

Can you recommend a DPF for a 6.9 engine?

Bill avatar
Bill:

The 6.9 IDI doesn’t come equipped with a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) like modern diesel engines do. DPFs are generally found on newer diesel models to reduce emissions and meet stringent regulations. Since the 6.9 IDI was produced in the early 80s, it predates these emission control technologies.

Key Points about the 6.9 IDI and DPF

  1. No DPF Needed: Since your 6.9 IDI doesn’t have a DPF, there’s no need for installation or concern about maintenance for one. You’re already working with a more straightforward system.

  2. Emissions Considerations: While your 6.9 is exempt from DPF regulations, it’s still a good idea to ensure your engine is running efficiently and cleanly. Regular maintenance such as oil changes, air filter replacements, and checking fuel injectors can help keep emissions in check.

  3. Performance Upgrades: If you’re looking to improve performance, you might consider upgrading the exhaust system, using a high-flow air filter, or even looking into tuning options that can enhance power while still maintaining reliability.

  4. Community Support: For more detailed discussions about performance modifications that respect emissions standards, the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford is a great place to connect with others who share your passion for these classic trucks.

If you have more questions or need further assistance with your 6.9 IDI, feel free to ask! I’m here to help! 🚚✨

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User:

What modifications can make a 6.9 roll coal?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Ah, the classic "rollin’ coal" look! It’s a popular choice for many diesel enthusiasts who want to showcase their engine’s potential. While it’s worth noting that rolling coal can be controversial due to emissions concerns, if you’re set on achieving that distinct plume of black smoke from your 6.9 IDI, here are some ways to do it:

1. Increase Fuel Delivery

One of the primary ways to create more smoke is to increase the amount of fuel the engine delivers during combustion. Here are some methods to do this:

  • Adjust the Injection Pump: By turning up the fuel delivery on the injection pump (often referred to as "tweaking" the pump), you can increase the fuel flow. This should be done cautiously, as too much fuel can lead to excessive smoke and engine damage.

  • Upgraded Injectors: Consider installing larger or performance injectors designed to deliver more fuel. This can help achieve a richer mixture that produces more smoke.

2. Air-to-Fuel Ratio

Reducing the air-to-fuel ratio can also lead to increased smoke production. While the following methods can help, be cautious as improper adjustments can lead to engine issues:

  • Restrict Air Intake: Although not commonly recommended, you may experiment with slightly restricting airflow to the engine. This could be done by modifying the air filter setup. However, be aware that this can adversely affect performance and efficiency.

3. Exhaust Modifications

  • Straight Pipe Exhaust: As mentioned earlier, using a straight pipe exhaust system helps in achieving that desired sound and can also contribute to increased smoke. Without a muffler to restrict flow, the engine can produce more visible exhaust.

4. Tuning

  • ECM or Chip Tuning: While not typical for the 6.9, if you’ve upgraded to a more modern engine control setup (like a later model powertrain), tuning can help adjust fuel maps to produce more smoke.

Important Notes

  • Legal Considerations: Rolling coal can attract unwanted attention, as many areas have emissions regulations. Always be mindful of local laws and the environmental impact.

  • Engine Health: Increasing fuel delivery and modifying the air/fuel mixture can put additional stress on your engine. It’s crucial to monitor engine health and performance to prevent issues down the line.

If you’re interested in more detailed tips or visual guidance, you might want to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for insights from fellow enthusiasts who’ve modified their trucks.

Feel free to reach out with more questions or if there’s anything specific you’d like to know about your 6.9! Happy wrenching! 🚚💨

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User:

Do you have an image of the stock radio in a 1984 F250?

Bill avatar
Bill:

I’m here to help with advice and information, but I can’t display images directly. However, I can describe the stock radio setup for a 1984 F-250, which might guide you if you’re looking for a replacement or just want to know what to look for.

Stock Radio Description

The 1984 F-250 typically came with a basic AM/FM radio or an optional AM/FM cassette player, depending on the trim level. Here’s what you might expect:

  1. Appearance: The stock radio generally had a simple, rectangular faceplate with push-button presets for easy station selection.

  2. Controls: Basic volume and tuning knobs were standard, along with buttons for AM/FM band selection.

  3. Cassette Option: If equipped with the cassette player, there’d be an additional slot and controls for tape operation.

  4. Location: The radio was mounted in the center of the dashboard, accessible to both driver and passenger.

If you’re restoring your Bullnose and looking for authenticity, you might want to check out online forums or marketplaces dedicated to vintage Ford parts. Websites like eBay or classic car parts suppliers might have stock or NOS (New Old Stock) units available.

For more community insights, the Bullnose Ford subreddit at reddit.com/r/bullnoseford is a great place to ask around for images or even parts sourcing.

If you have more questions about your F-250’s interior or any other aspect, feel free to ask!

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User:

What speaker size is suitable for a 1984 F250?

Bill avatar
Bill:

The 1984 F-250 came with factory-installed speakers that are fairly straightforward to replace or upgrade. Here’s what you need to know:

Speaker Sizes

  1. Front Speakers:

    • Size: 6.5-inch
    • Location: Typically mounted in the doors. If you’re planning to upgrade, you’ll need to ensure the depth of the new speakers fits within the available space to avoid interference with window mechanisms.
  2. Rear Speakers:

    • Size: 6×9-inch
    • Location: If your F-250 is equipped with rear speakers, they would likely be in the cab corners or mounted behind the seats in the extended cab versions.

Considerations for Upgrading

  • Speaker Depth: When upgrading, check the mounting depth of the new speakers to ensure they fit without modification or interference.

  • Sound Quality: Consider speakers with higher sensitivity and power handling for better sound quality, especially if you plan to use an aftermarket head unit or amplifier.

  • Installation: You may need adapter brackets or additional wiring connectors depending on the new speakers’ configuration.

If you’re diving into a full audio upgrade, it’s a good chance to also think about replacing the head unit for more modern features if that suits your style. For guidance on installation or recommendations, you might find valuable insights from others on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel or the Bullnose Ford subreddit.

If you have more questions or need assistance with installation tips, feel free to ask! 🚚🔊

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User:

Why do my windows fog up in the truck?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Dealing with foggy windows can be a real nuisance, especially if you’re driving your Bullnose in humid or cold conditions. Here are some steps you can take to keep those windows clear and improve visibility:

Causes of Fogging

  1. Humidity: Moisture inside the cab condenses on the cool glass, causing fogging.
  2. Temperature Difference: A warm interior and a cold exterior can lead to condensation on the inside of the windows.

Solutions to Prevent and Clear Fogging

  1. Use the Defrost Setting:

    • Turn on the defroster: This setting directs airflow to the windshield and side windows. It usually utilizes the air conditioning system to dehumidify the air before warming it.
    • Increase Fan Speed: Boosting the fan speed can help clear fog more quickly.
  2. Air Conditioning & Heat:

    • Run the A/C: Even if it’s cold outside, running the A/C helps remove moisture from the air. Combine it with the heater to maintain comfort.
    • Use Fresh Air: Set your ventilation system to bring in fresh air rather than recirculating cabin air to reduce humidity levels.
  3. Manual Moisture Control:

    • Wipe Windows: Keep a microfiber cloth handy to manually clear fog if it forms.
    • Crack a Window: If weather permits, slightly open a window to equalize the temperature and reduce humidity.
  4. Preventative Measures:

    • Check for Leaks: Inspect door seals and window seals for any leaks that might be letting moisture in.
    • Dry Interior: Ensure that the vehicle’s interior is dry. Wet floor mats or seats can contribute to humidity.
    • Use Anti-Fog Products: Apply an anti-fog treatment to the inside of the windows. These products create a thin film that reduces condensation.

Maintenance Tips

  • Inspect the HVAC System: Ensure your heating and ventilation system is working effectively. A clogged cabin air filter (if your model has one) can reduce airflow and make fogging worse.

  • Check Window Seals: Good seals around doors and windows help keep moisture out.

If these steps don’t resolve the issue, it might be worth checking for underlying problems such as a malfunctioning heater core or blocked vents. If you need more detailed guidance, feel free to reach out or check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for visual tutorials.

Let me know if there’s anything else you need help with!

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User:

How can I diagnose a bad heater core?

Bill avatar
Bill:

A failing heater core can cause several issues in your Bullnose, usually related to heating and coolant leaks. Here are some common signs and ways to diagnose a bad heater core:

Symptoms of a Bad Heater Core

  1. Foggy Windows:

    • Persistent fogging, especially when using the defroster, can indicate a heater core issue.
  2. Lack of Heat:

    • If the heater is blowing cold air even when set to hot, the heater core might be clogged or leaking.
  3. Coolant Smell:

    • A sweet, syrupy smell inside the cab often indicates a coolant leak, which could mean the heater core is leaking.
  4. Coolant Leak:

    • Check under the dashboard on the passenger side for wet carpet or coolant pooling. This is a strong indicator of a heater core leak.
  5. Engine Overheating:

    • In severe cases, a leaking heater core can cause the engine to overheat due to a loss of coolant.
  6. Low Coolant Level:

    • If you’re constantly topping off the coolant with no visible external leaks, the heater core could be the culprit.

Diagnosing a Heater Core Issue

  1. Visual Inspection:

    • Look for dampness or coolant on the passenger side floor. A flashlight can help you spot leaks.
  2. Pressure Test the Cooling System:

    • Use a cooling system pressure tester to check for leaks. This test can reveal pressure loss indicative of an internal leak.
  3. Check for Air Traps:

    • Make sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system, as this can affect heater performance and mimic heater core issues.

Replacement Considerations

  • Complexity: Replacing the heater core involves removing a significant part of the dashboard, so be prepared for a bit of a project.

  • Parts and Tools: Ensure you have the right replacement heater core and tools. A repair manual specific to your truck can be invaluable for a DIY job.

  • Professional Help: If you’re not comfortable with the complexity of the job, consider seeking help from a professional mechanic.

If you decide to tackle the replacement yourself, it might be worth checking out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for any available tutorials or tips from the community.

Feel free to ask if you have more questions or need further assistance!

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User:

Is it safe to drive with a faulty heater core?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Driving with a bad heater core isn’t ideal and could lead to bigger problems if not addressed. Here’s what you need to consider:

Immediate Concerns

  1. Coolant Leakage:

    • A leaking heater core can lead to a significant loss of coolant, which can cause your engine to overheat. Consistently low coolant levels are a clear sign of trouble and should be addressed promptly.
  2. Visibility Issues:

    • If the core is leaking, it can cause the windows to fog up, impairing visibility. This is not only inconvenient but also a safety hazard.
  3. Cabin Comfort:

    • A malfunctioning heater core means no heat in the cabin, which can be uncomfortable in colder climates.

Potential Risks

  1. Engine Overheating:

    • A loss of coolant can lead to engine overheating, potentially causing serious damage like a blown head gasket or warped engine components.
  2. Interior Damage:

    • Coolant leakage inside the cabin can damage carpets and upholstery, leading to unpleasant odors and potential mold growth.
  3. Escalating Repairs:

    • Ignoring the problem can lead to more extensive and expensive repairs down the line.

What You Should Do

  • Monitor Coolant Levels: Until you can fix the heater core, keep an eye on your coolant levels and top off as needed to prevent overheating.

  • Use a Temporary Bypass: As a short-term solution, you can bypass the heater core by rerouting the heater hoses. This will stop the leak but also eliminate cabin heat. Keep in mind this is just a temporary fix.

  • Plan for Repair: Schedule time to address the heater core issue. Whether you do it yourself or hire a professional, it’s important to get it fixed sooner rather than later.

Driving with a bad heater core isn’t immediately catastrophic, but it’s not something you want to ignore. Addressing it promptly will save you from more significant headaches down the road.

If you need more guidance on bypassing or replacing the heater core, feel free to ask, or check for resources on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. Stay safe out there!

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User:

What is the coolant capacity for a 6.9 engine?

Bill avatar
Bill:

For a 1984 Ford F-250, the coolant capacity depends on the engine option. Here’s a general guideline for the coolant system capacities for common engines in these trucks:

Coolant Capacities

  1. 4.9L Inline-6 (300 CID):

    • Approximately 20 quarts (5 gallons)
  2. 5.0L V8 (302 CID):

    • Approximately 16 quarts (4 gallons)
  3. 5.8L V8 (351M/351W CID):

    • Approximately 20 quarts (5 gallons)
  4. 6.9L V8 Diesel:

    • Approximately 32 quarts (8 gallons)
  5. 7.5L V8 (460 CID):

    • Approximately 24 quarts (6 gallons)

Filling and Mixing Tips

  • Mix Ratio: Use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. This balance prevents freezing and boiling, ensuring optimal performance.

  • Bleeding the System: After filling, run the engine with the heater on high to help eliminate air pockets in the system. Check and top off the coolant level as needed.

  • Check the Manual: If you have the owner’s manual, it’s always a good idea to confirm these capacities, as variations might occur based on specific configurations or aftermarket modifications.

Maintaining the correct coolant level and mixture is crucial for keeping your truck running smoothly. If you’ve got any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the best shocks for a 1985 Ford F150 300 4.9 single cab?


Bullnose Bill explaining features of the 1985 Ford F150 300 4.9 single cab.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Great, sounds like you’ve got an ’85 F-150 with the venerable 300 inline-six. A solid workhorse for sure. What kind of info or help are you looking for? Whether it’s maintenance, upgrades, or a specific issue, I’m here to guide you through it.


User avatar

User:

Which shocks are ideal for a 1985 Ford F150 300 4.9 single cab?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Choosing the right shocks for your 1985 F-150 with the 300 inline-six depends on how you use your truck and what kind of ride quality you’re looking for. Here are some options and considerations:

Stock Replacement

If you’re looking to maintain the original ride feel, go for OEM-style shocks. Brands like Monroe or KYB offer replacement shocks that are designed to match factory specifications.

Upgraded Performance

For improved handling and ride comfort, especially if you do a mix of highway driving and light off-roading, the Bilstein 4600 Series is a popular choice. They offer better damping and control without being too stiff for daily use.

Heavy-Duty and Off-Road

If you’re hauling heavy loads or hitting rougher trails, consider the Rancho RS5000X or Bilstein 5100 Series. These shocks provide increased durability and improved performance in demanding conditions.

Installation Tips

  • Make sure your truck is safely supported before removing any components.
  • Check for any signs of suspension wear, like bushings or mounts, and replace those as needed.
  • Always tighten all fasteners to the manufacturer’s specifications to ensure safety and performance.

Pro Tips

  • Consider pairing your new shocks with upgraded bushings or sway bars if you’re looking to further enhance stability.
  • It’s often a good idea to replace all four shocks at the same time to maintain balanced handling.

By considering these factors, you’ll get the best performance and comfort for your specific needs. If you want to see more about suspension upgrades, there might be a related video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel worth checking out. Let me know if you need more details!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Can I use 1974 351W heads on a 1985 351W? Are the accessory bolt patterns the same?


Bullnose Bill explains the compatibility of Ford 351W heads for truck enthusiasts.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Hey there! Great to hear you’re working on a 351W project. Installing 1974 351W heads on an 1985 351W is a popular upgrade, and it can definitely boost performance. But let’s dive into the details!

Compatibility

  1. Head Bolt Pattern: The head bolt pattern on the 351W hasn’t changed, so the heads will bolt right up to your block without any issues.
  2. Casting Differences: However, be aware that the 1974 heads (especially the earlier models) may have smaller combustion chambers compared to the later versions. This could impact your compression ratio, so make sure to check that out before you commit.

Accessory Bolts

As for the accessory bolt pattern, the front of the heads generally stayed consistent through the years. That means you should be able to use your existing accessory brackets and hardware. However, there can be slight variations depending on the exact year and any modifications made to the engine, so it’s always good to double-check.

Additional Considerations

  • Intake Manifold: If you’re planning to use an aftermarket intake, ensure it’s compatible with the older head design.
  • Valves and Springs: You might want to consider the condition of the valves and springs in the 1974 heads, as they may require a refresh.

If you’re looking for more insights or tips, you might want to check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They often cover engine swaps and modifications that could give you some visual guidance.

Happy wrenching, and let me know if you have any more questions!


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

How do I connect the throttle kickdown rod on my 1985 Ford F150 with a 302 engine and AOD transmission?


Bullnose Bill explains the throttle kickdown rod setup for a 1985 Ford F150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Hey there! Sounds like you’ve got a sweet setup with your ‘85 F150 XLT Lariat. The 302, combined with that cam and Edelbrock carb, should give you a nice boost in performance. Let’s get that throttle kickdown rod hooked up!

Connecting the Throttle Kickdown Rod

  1. Locate the Kickdown Arm on the AOD Transmission:

    • First, find the kickdown lever on the driver’s side of the AOD transmission. It’s usually a small arm that can pivot. Make sure you have enough room to connect the rod without any obstructions.
  2. Connect to the Carburetor:

    • On your Edelbrock Thunder ASV 600 carburetor, you’ll want to find the throttle linkage. There should be a hole in the throttle arm for the kickdown rod.
    • If you don’t see a designated hole, you might need to attach it to a point on the throttle arm that allows for proper travel while still giving full throttle when you push the pedal down.
  3. Adjust the Length of the Kickdown Rod:

    • Ensure the rod is the right length to connect the carburetor and the transmission without being too tight or too loose. If it’s adjustable, set it so that the transmission kickdown lever can go to its full range of motion.
  4. Set Up Proper Free Play:

    • There should be a little bit of free play in the kickdown rod. You want to ensure that the throttle can open fully without the rod being pulled taut. A common rule of thumb is to have about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of free play.
  5. Test the Setup:

    • After connecting everything, start the engine and test the throttle. Shift through the gears and make sure the kickdown is functioning properly. You should feel a noticeable downshift when you accelerate hard.

Quick Tips

  • Check for Binding: Make sure there are no binding points in your linkage. A smooth connection is crucial for operation.
  • Consult the Manual: If you have a service manual for the AOD or the carb, it can provide more specific details about the installation.
  • Community Support: Don’t forget, if you want to share your experiences or ask for tips from other Bullnose enthusiasts, the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) is a great resource!

Feel free to ask if you have any more questions or need further clarification. Happy wrenching!


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Published on June 16, 2025

Click to play the video inline  or  see it on YouTube

Part of the The Bullnose Bronco series.
Part of the Bullnose Garage Reviews series.

Want to see more like this? Subscribe to Bullnose Garage!

Show Transcript

All right guys, here we go. This just showed up at my door today, and I know what you’re thinking: oh no, Ed, not another sponsored video. Yes, it is, but this one’s really cool because here’s the deal. Ever since I got the Bronco, I’ve been looking for a way to store the cap, right? ‘Cause you get this big old cap on the back of a Bronco, you want to take it out and go under the sun and go off-road and have some good times with the cap off. You got to have a place to put it, and I’ve been trying to think of a way to do that. And in the middle of doing that, this isn’t a joke, these guys actually reached out to me and said, ‘Hey Ed, we noticed that your garage is, uh, kind of, you know, cluttery all the time, and we think that maybe we’ve got a way to help you clean it up, and if you can do a video on it, we’ll go ahead and give you a unit for free.’ I said, ‘Okay.’ And then I looked into this, and you can actually use this. It’s got enough lifting capacity to tie the cap of the Bronco to this thing and lift it to the top of the garage. This is a Fleximounts GL1 ceiling storage lift, and I’m going to mount it right back there, back the Bronco in, and then we’re going to store the cap up on top of the garage ceiling. All right, so according to the contract I signed, I got 30 days to get this thing installed, get the Bronco in here, and get this up on the lift and show you guys exactly how it works. That’s pretty neat.

It’s kind of loud, but it works. Now you may think that’s a lot of time, but, uh, not in my world. That’s a turkey. That’s a turkey. You’re a turkey? No, that’s a turkey in there. Oh, what are you taking a picture of? Ew, don’t hit the tree! Don’t hit the tree! You want the holy cow?

Hello.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And as you can see, my garage is a complete disaster area. I’ve been working on stuff all spring, and I got no room for anything in here. The engine still sits right there, mocking me as I walk around the garage working on other stuff. But I’m hoping that with this, I can knock out two birds with one stone and kind of clean things up a little bit, get some storage space to store things in, and find a cool way, an innovative way, to store the Bronco cap. Now that’s not what this is advertised to do, right? It’s not for that purpose, but I’m hoping that I can make that work. And if I can, then, uh, maybe you guys who have Broncos out there looking for a place to store your cap can, uh, can follow suit. So we’re going to open this thing up, do a little bit of an unboxing, uh, and get it installed and see how it works. So, uh, stick around.

All right guys, finally got some time to, uh, put this thing together. Let’s see if we can get it installed. First things first, uh, I’ll go ahead and open the box for you so you can see exactly what comes and, uh, kind of what we’re dealing with. So here’s kind of a picture of what it is. Basically, it’s a lift that’s built for your garage or storage area, uh, to put some stuff on and lift it up. This thing can lift up to 300 lb, so, um, that’s pretty good, but it does mean that you have to have it sturdily mounted to your ceiling, uh, on some joists. So, uh, ceiling joists are generally, uh, 2ft center apart, so, uh, this is designed to be, uh, 48 in centers. And luckily, my ceiling, even though it wasn’t, uh, built great back in the day, it was built to that spec, so, uh, I’m good there. All right, let’s see what we got.

Okay, so obviously we got our, uh, hardware here, and, uh, manual out there. And this looks like the first piece that will probably go up on the ceiling. Looks pretty sturdy. This got all the cables, this side of here, just like that. Now this looks like the, uh, handle to roll it up and down. That’s pretty cool. Um, it does actually come with some tape so that you can mount the mounting, um, template to your ceiling so you know exactly where to pre-drill the holes and to put the, uh, the hardware. So that’s actually really cool. All the different bits and pieces I have to go through to see what exactly all this stuff is, but I mean, so far it looks like it’s pretty sturdy. Oh yeah, okay, so see, there’s our installation template. Uh, that’s going to go up against the ceiling to tell us exactly where all the bits and pieces are going to go. Um, and that’s what tape is for, to tape it to your ceiling. So that’s pretty cool. I like the fact that they include that. That’ll make things a little bit easier. Oh, here’s the rollers. Cable’s packed really well, which is nice. I I’ve got some of this stuff from places, and their packing is just, yeah, so substandard. You get it, and there’s, you know, I mean, you guys know UPS and FedEx and even the postal service, these guys bang around your packages all the time, especially getting auto parts and stuff. You get them, and they’re all tore up. So it’s really nice when a, uh, a company packs things well. I appreciate that. I’m not trying to find things to give kudos for, right? You know, this is an honest overview here, but kudos where kudos are due. I’ve seen some pretty bad packaging. Here’s your handle for raising up and down, and there’s the bottom grate here. Now I’m not sure how easy this is going to be to install for a one-man show like myself. We’re going to find out, and the box already says team lift, right? Which I completely ignore like everybody else does. All right, let me lay this stuff out, and we’ll take a look.

All right, so here we are all unpacked. Actually, there’s just a few pieces here, so I’m hoping, um, that it’s a pretty simple installation. Um, I haven’t gone through the instructions yet. I’ll do that next. Uh, for something like this, that this sort of, uh, industrial kind of garage equipment, you probably should go through the instructions first just to set yourself up and know exactly what you’re doing. I don’t usually do that, but in this case, um, I’m going to go ahead and do that first because this thing is pretty heavy, and I’m hanging it from the ceiling of my garage, so I want to make sure that I get it right. So, uh, yeah, I’m going to go through.

that and then the next thing is going to be putting that template up on my ceiling so I know exactly where it’s going to mount. All right, well there we go. My template is all up on the ceiling. You can see the size of this sucker. It’s 4×4, 4T x 4T, so it’s pretty good size. I am going to be able to fit a lot of stuff on there, and when it comes time to put the Bronco cap on, yeah, that’s a perfect size for that. So I’m just going to use a couple of ratchet straps underneath the cap to basically hang it. I’m not going to do any kind of tightening or really hard strapping down. It’s going to be just hanging up here. I don’t come through here with anything tall, and really, I’m not going to plan on leaving the cap off of the Bronco for an extended period of time. Maybe someday down the road I’ll get like a soft cap or something, but if I do that, then that cap will go into storage, right? It won’t stay in here. So this is just for like if I want to go out on the weekend, I back the Bronco in, pop the cap off, raise it up, get it out of the way, and then drive off. And now I’m cool. I can do my stuff. I can go, you know, out rock crawling in the desert with the kids or whatever. And then when I’m done, back the Bronco back in, lower the cap back down, attach it, and drive out. And now I’m back to having my space back again, and I can use the actual lift itself to put some things on, car parts, tools I don’t use all the time, you know, whatever stuff that I’ve got laying around that just sort of like takes up space on the floor in my garage. Now I can lift it up, so this is a win-win. But I’m really looking forward to seeing how it works. Also, guys, just to let you know, I just double checked with my handy dandy crapola stud finder. These things are garbage, aren’t they? Anyway, it did give me a reading exactly where I expected the stud to be up there, right in line with the second part of that template there, so I think I’m good to go. Now it’s time to start mounting the thing.

All right, guys, changed my hat. Starting to sweat, actually doing some work today. Okay, so I am not a like interior DIY channel generally, so I’m not going to go through every last single step with you guys for installing this thing. But I will go through it when to take the cap off the Bronco, ’cause that’s the kind of channel I am. Anyway, the next step is to use these two brackets. These are the ones that go on the side where you crank it, and then these two pulley pieces here, you stick them up there, mark where the holes go to meet the template that they’ve got, and then we pre-drill. I think I have to go check my instructions, but I think that’s what we do next. So yeah, I’m going to go stick these up there and mark my spots.

All right, guys, real quick. I made a mistake when I set this up. My plan was to put the cranking side closer to the skylight, and actually turns out this template matters which direction you go, and I didn’t think that way. I just kind of sort of slapped it up there. So the cranking side, according to this template, is now closer to me, which you know what? I’m okay with. It doesn’t really matter which side has the crank on it. The crank itself gets stored somewhere else. You just lift it up and put it in there and then crank it down. So it doesn’t make any difference which side it goes on. So yeah, so this is the bracket for the cranking side, and that lines up with, there’s some little divots up there in the template. So I already marked the spots for the pulley side of the template, but that’s okay. This will cover that up. Nobody cares. I don’t care. So anyway, yeah, so rather than pull that thing down, flip it around, and put it back up, I’m just going to go ahead and flip where the crank side is, and I don’t think it really even matters. So that’s just God’s way of saying this is the direction it’s supposed to be.

Well, all my holes are pre-drilled. I guess now it’s time to mount things up. Two hours later. So I don’t know if you can tell by looking or not, but my ceiling actually has a bit of a slope to it ’cause I’ve got a flat roof on the house, and so the whole thing slopes downward so the rain and the water will run off that direction. And it’s actually enough to cause me a problem. It’s about a 2-inch difference from one side where I’m going to mount these pieces to the other, and it’s a little bit different for the front and the back because they’re different widths. So, you know, I did some measuring and everything. I’m just going to try to get close to level with some fender washers and a 2×4 and some plywood just to try to get some spacers in there. So I got out my trusty can of Ford blue and made a couple of spacers here to go up there, and we’re going to see how that goes. Now, I actually had to go to the store and spend about 16 bucks on some lag screws. Yeah, so I had to go to the store and get some lag screws. This is the one that came with the kit. This is the one that I’m going to use to sort of make sure that my screw goes through all my spacers and up into the rafter, and it’s good, getting good, getting good, getting secure up there. So yeah, couple little changes here to deal with my sloped ceiling, but I think I’m going to make it work. It might void my warranty, but you know, do what you got to do. We’ll see how it goes.

It was at this moment he knew he up. Hey guys, future Ed here. I was in no mood after that happened to try to analyze or explain exactly what happened there, but I can look back on it now and laugh. So I’m going to go ahead and explain to you exactly what happened and the results of that whole thing. So here is what’s left of the main support bar from the GL1 mount. As you can see, the mount is no longer attached here. That piece is, is this piece here. This is the bracket that slides into the bracket that goes onto the ceiling.

It goes on there and then there’s another piece here that goes on top of there. There’s a cotter pin that holds that, and normally there would be a little bearing inside of there, and this is what is left of that bearing. There’s a couple more pieces that I had to pound out, and they’re gone now, but, uh, yeah, then the, um, the balls are long gone. I have no idea where they even went, unfortunately. This, um, the bearing was just right inside this hole right here, and it was press fit in. There’s nothing out there on the market that that’s like this. This has got to be a custom part that they have made for this bracket specifically, so, uh, I couldn’t find anything out there that would, um, that would do this. So here’s kind of what happened there. Because my ceiling is sloped, the mounting brackets are also a little bit sloped, which means that when I hung this up on the ceiling, it was caned just a little bit. I mean, this is exaggerated, but it was caned a little bit like this. And so to get this side in, I had to kind of bend it down just a little bit, and that caused that bracket to be a little bit tighter than it would be if the ceiling was flat. And so I found myself needing to use a rubber mallet to get that pounded in. This, uh, piece of equipment telescopes to go to the right size so they can pack it. This side telescopes really easy, and this side is kind of harder, right? And so I opened this to what I thought was full extension, but it turns out there’s actually a little bit more extension on this that I didn’t get because of how tight that little last piece is. And so I didn’t have it extended all the way. And so what happened was, when I, and you can see it on the video, I got to a certain point where this had already, um, this, the length of this wasn’t quite long enough to go in between both mounts exactly. And when I pounded this side in, this side started coming out, and as I got this side locked completely in, the other side popped out and swung down, and then gravity did its thing, and this, uh, here just bent inside that bearing and popped that bearing right out of there. And, uh, things went flying, and that was it. And there was just no, uh, yeah, no way to stop that from happening. So this is completely my fault. One, I wasn’t paying attention to how far the extension was on this. Two, I wasn’t really watching while I was pounding in. You can see on the video I turn around and look just right before it happens just to check to make sure that I’m okay, and the last couple pounds I did, it moved a lot, right? It just popped right out of there and swung down. Um, but again, that’s on me. And also because my ceiling is, is, is, uh, at an angle, that’s an atypical installation. I think most folks are going to have straight, straight ceilings, so, um, and it’s, and again, it’s on me as the installer to make sure that I’m doing what I got to do to account for that kind of stuff, and I didn’t. So anyway, bottom line is don’t think too badly of the product. That was all on me. It’s not because of cheap materials; it’s because there’s no bearing out there this size that would handle the weight of this thing swinging down like that. That’s all there is to it. So let’s go ahead and continue on and see how it got resolved.

One week later. Hey guys, so it’s about a week later after my little, uh, incident, and I just got home from a field trip with the kiddos. As you can see, I’m very appropriately dressed for that. And, uh, look at what I have here on my front stoop. It is another GL1 from Flexmounts. I got a hold of them and let them know that, uh, I had the little accident and I was really sorry about that. It was totally my fault. I wasn’t paying attention. It was all me, and they sent me a whole new one. And I’m guessing it’s because these parts are all manufactured together, and they can’t just send me like the little bearing piece or the mount piece or whatever it is. So they sent me a whole new one, and they didn’t even complain or nothing. As a matter of fact, I haven’t even heard from them. They just, I sent them the email, and then a week later one shows up on my front stoop. So we are going to finish this installation and, uh, show you how it works.

Okay, let’s try this again with a new one, fully telescoped this time. Yeah, see this one telescopes easier than the last one, and I don’t blame them for that. I don’t, that’s, that’s not their fault. I mean, they can’t manufacture everything to the exact same specs, and I should have read the directions better and known that how the telescoping thing worked before I tried to put it up here. But that’s, see, it is sturdy enough. Oh, I moved my ladder’s in the wrong spot. So these brackets, mounting points, and this bar are sturdy enough that when I get it in here like that, it will stay, you know, it’ll stay in there, and I can hang it just like that with this other bracket coming down. So I have room and time to move over here and get that one mounted in. Now, last time I had to use a hammer, a little bit of persuasion to get it in. Let’s see if this one’s the same thing, and I’m going to keep an eye on the other side, you better believe this time, to make sure that I’m not pulling it out of there.

Oh wow, okay, yeah, that’s much easier this time. And there we go, not going anywhere this time, he said confidently. All right, now it says to assemble the grid. So I put together a lot of things like this where the instruction manual just kind of gives you a bunch of pictures, and you have to kind of infer how things are oriented based on how the instruction manual looks, and I hate that because I like to be more exact than that. So I do appreciate that Flexi Mounts, their instructions actually tell you things like the label face is out, make sure that the bars are perpendicular to the stacked grid, and, you know, this is exactly how this goes, make sure you do this, make sure you do that. So I appreciate all that. Oh, there’s even labels on here that says this side of the wire deck should face upward. It’s nice when product designers actually think about the people.

Doing the installation, it kind of tells you like where this should be located and how far back and forth it should be and that there should be enough like an equal amount of bar on both sides and all this. So yeah, pretty good.

All right, basket assembled. Now it’s time to hook it up. I’m a cheat. I don’t feel like bending over, so I got my grid all wired up, everything’s hooked, got my handy dandy winding pole here. It says before using the product to unlatch the safety catch on the gearbox, and I’m guessing you just put that in there like that, and now you can wind it. Okay, it takes a little bit of work to get it wound. It’s got a low gearing, so that’s so you can raise all that weight. But it’s nice that you can kind of move this wherever you want.

Now it says it holds 300 lb evenly distributed. I’m not 300 lb, but I’m also not evenly distributed, so I think I’m going to try it with something I can put right in the middle. So I don’t know if you can see in the camera or not, but there’s a fair bit of slack in some of these cables, and one of the things that the instructions does tell you to do is to put a heavy load on there the very first time that you lift the lift up so that it can take some of that slack out and it can wind things up appropriately.

So I just happened to have a relatively heavy load over here that I was going to actually use this thing to store anyway, which is my tote full of parts from the Windsor. And this seems like a pretty good way to store that stuff. I may have to move some things out of the tote so I can, you know, have more vertical room, but that’s a pretty heavy load there to start with.

Oh yeah, see, it’s starting to take the slack up there. Oh, and one other thing that the instructions noted is that if you want to, you can take the handle off and use a power drill to do this. So, um, yeah, that’s pretty neat.

It’s kind of loud, but it works.

All right, so that is as far as I can get it. How much do I trust this thing? Huh, that’s as far as I can get it without the parts inside that tote actually touching the ceiling. But that’s pretty nice, you know, I can walk underneath of it, and it’s a little lower in the front than it is in the back. I think that’s just, don’t kill me, so little lower in the front than it is in the back. And I think that’s just due to, you know, the slop that’s inherent in mounting things like this. It’s not going anywhere, so that’s pretty nice.

Yeah, yeah, I like that. And I’ll end up taking those parts out of that tote, the ones that stick up there, laying them next to it, and then I can put all those parts up there and it gets them off my floor. That’s pretty slick.

All right, so there it is tucked all the way up. Yeah, that’s not bad. Yeah, that’s pretty nice, actually.

Well guys, unfortunately, I couldn’t get my Bronco running. I tried to get it running this morning and didn’t have any luck. I still don’t know exactly what’s going on with it. The spark plugs are black and carbony even though they’re brand new. It popped on me once or twice, and now it won’t start even with starter fluid, so I still got some work to do there.

But luckily for me, past Ed had some foresight and put in this cool little doohickey right here, which ignore the clothes garage sale stuff. I have a video about where I how I did this if you want to see. And this just allows me to use a comealong basically to get the Bronco up over the hump in the front right there. I could push it on my own or pull it without that hump there, but with that hump, I don’t have the strength to do it, so this comealong helps me get over the hump. It also gives me a little bit of safety so it doesn’t go flying forward or anything if, you know, I lose control of it.

So yep, that’s what we’re doing right now. Come on.

Woo guys, this is nuts! Look at how close I am to everything here. Can you see that? That is ridiculous. It’s not actually touching, but it is pretty much exactly where it needs to be to be underneath this flex amounts lift. So now I get to learn how to take a back off a Bronco, the cap off, and see if we can’t get that sucker lifted up.

Hey guys, welcome to the inside of my Bronco, and as things are beautiful in here, we’re going to see if we can get this cap off.

All right, now I know some models have some interior lights back here. You’d have to disconnect the wiring. I don’t see any in this one, so I’m going to assume that there’s no wiring in here. Even the cab light is like empty, you can see right there, so even if there was a light, it’s probably not hooked up. And you can see where the trim is all but completely missing on both sides. I have to take some of this off, but I could just rip it off really. It’s pretty roached out.

But there’s, take, if you have a nicer Bronco, you would take the trim off, you would unplug the light, and then there’s these bolts here that you take off, and there’s some pins here that help kind of guide it on. But, yeah, that should be about it. Once I get the bolts off, it should come off, and we’re going to see what happens.

All right guys, so to be honest, there’s more to this than I thought. I’ve never taken the cap off a Bronco before, so you have to take all this trim off, and there’s some bolts up there too, and these bolts are kind of a pain to get out. They’re really fine threaded, so they take a long time. But we’re working through it, and eventually I think I’m going to leave all this trim off. I’m not putting the trim back on, and I think I may try to create like a quick method of putting this cap on and off. I’m not sure what I can do there. I’ll have to take a look and see what other guys have done. But, yeah, ’cause I’d like to be able to just like remove this thing for a few hours for a fun on a weekend and then come back and pop it back on. So we will see what I’m going to do, but for now I just got to.

Get it off. Okay, so now comes the only part that I’m actually really kind of concerned about, which is getting the top actually off. Who knows how long it’s been since this thing has moved? Uh, I got all the bolts out, got all the trim off, uh, so it should be good to go. But, uh, there’s a little bit of sealant, I think, um, keeping this thing on. So you can hear where and see where it kind of moves. Make sure if you’re doing this, use a trim removal tool and not something more, uh, aggressive than that. You don’t want to crack this fiberglass. That would be really, really bad news. So see if I can get it off. I feel like this is a bigger pain than it would normally be ’cause I’ve got my engine back there and a bunch of just stuff crammed in this garage. It’s the consequences of being a dad in the summertime with the family and all that stuff. There’s yard sale stuff in here and just random bits of whatever. There’s one way to do it. So I think what I’m going to do now is I’m going to lower the, uh, the lift down to basically touch the top of the, uh, cap so that, uh, when I ratchet strap it, it’s already kind of right there. There we go. All right, here we go, all tightened up. Moment of truth, come on. Yeah, so for something like this, I think I’m going to use the hand crank rather than this, uh, this drill because the drill is a little bit clunky for this. That’s pretty impressive. All right, guys, well, there you go, a completely novel way to store your Bronco cap. I mean, you could probably even store a Blazer cap or a Jeep cap or, um, yeah, a newer Bronco or anything really that’ll pop off like this. Um, you know, you can maybe do like, uh, those hard cover, uh, tanu covers if you wanted to take those off and go off to the, uh, the store and get you something from the hardware store that’s a little bit bigger or furniture or whatever, or refrigerator, you know, and take that hard cap off. And this is a place to store it, right? I think it’s a really, really cool use for this thing. I didn’t see this use case advertised anywhere on the Flexi Mounts website. Flexi Mounts, I think that’s an untapped market that you should look into, but hey, I’m helping you out with that, so you’re welcome. Uh, as far as Flexi Mounts and the GL1 lift goes, pretty impressed. Obviously, I made a little bit of a mistake and that thing swung down and I busted it, but they sent me a whole new replacement. Now, I can’t guarantee that they would be the same way for you guys ’cause I’m doing a video for them. We kind of have a contract thing going on, so, you know, and I don’t know what’s going to happen once this is done and over with. I got to send it back to them. What’s going to happen with that? I got to work that out with them. But anyway, um, I’m going to keep one of these. True story, if they were to say, ‘because you broke it, you got to pay for it,’ I would pay for it to keep it. And that’s not a joke. I would. This is so useful, uh, that I would definitely, definitely pay for it. So, um, yeah. And on top of that, you know, you can see up there, I’m not sure you can see very well, but there’s a little bit of space between the top of that rack and the ceiling, so I could store some other stuff, being mindful I don’t go over 300 lb with this cap on there. But yeah, and that’s what it’s for, right? It’s for storing, uh, garage items up and out of the way. Uh, but I mean, you can hang stuff from it ’cause it’s got the grate and everything. It’s really super useful. You know, I was thinking of a way to store my cap, and I was looking at things like, I don’t know, I’ll put it on some pallets outside or maybe I could build a rack or maybe I could, I don’t know what I could do. Maybe I could get a winch. That would be pretty cool, right? And then Flex Mounts, literally just a couple of weeks after I had that thought, sent me an email saying, ‘Hey Ed, you know your garage is full of garbage and we think it would be great for you to store some of that garbage on our lift and get it out of your way.’ No, that’s not what they said. What they said was, ‘We like your channel, we like your style, we would like to have you talk about our lift on your channel.’ I said, ‘Well, yeah, okay, let me take a look at it as I do.’ And when I did, I went, ‘Oh my gosh, this would be perfect for storing a Bronco cap.’ And it is. I mean, guys, look, look at how cool it is. Look at that. This, this, I’m not acting like that’s super cool. I could just drive this thing out, go out, have a great day, back it in, drop this down. Now look, this is not as simple as taking off parts of a Jeep, right? But with a piece of equipment like this, it does make the up and down and taking this thing off a whole lot easier. I did this alone. Nobody helped me. And, um, it’s just going to sit here while I drive out. If I could, I can’t because this is broken, but hopefully yours isn’t. So if you have one, you can just drive out, do your stuff, drive back, pop it down, bolt it on, and you’re good to go. And I think at some point in the life cycle of this vehicle, I’m going to try to figure out a way to make this a little bit easier to take on and off. Uh, maybe put some studs here with some, um, uh, wing nuts or something. I’ll figure something out. I mean, do they have kits for that to make it easier to take a cap on and off on a Bronco? Uh, I don’t know. If not, I’ll figure something out. Um, but yeah, so anyway, bottom line, uh, Flexi Mounts GL1 lift, big thumbs up, big five stars, super impressed with it. It is not that expensive, guys. Go check it out. The link is in the description of the video. Uh, you know, as always, if you learned something today, you learned how to take a Bronco cap off, learn a great way to store a Bronco cap, um, give me a like, give me a subscribe. That really does help me out. I am super sorry that I’m not putting out very many videos right now. In the middle of the summer, it is just so much going on. I have literally taken days off of work to make this video happen because, uh, I just haven’t had any time otherwise. Uh, but I do appreciate every single comment.

Every single, like every single subscribe, keep doing that stuff. This engine back here will get worked on eventually, I promise. As always, guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time.

She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Take her head away, getting things to shine at Bullnose Garage. She’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching, we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching, we will see you next time.

When it comes to storing the hefty cap of a classic Ford Bronco, improvisation is key. In my latest video, I tackle this very challenge with the help of the Fleximounts GL1 Garage Lift. Spoiler alert: it’s not marketed for cap removal, but it turns out to be a fantastic solution.

Let’s dive into how this ceiling lift handled the Bronco cap and why it might just be the tool you didn’t know you needed.

Unboxing the Fleximounts GL1

First things first, the Fleximounts GL1 showed up at my door, and yes, it’s another sponsored gig. But before you roll your eyes, hear me out—this lift is genuinely useful. Ever since I got the Bronco, I’ve been on the hunt for a way to store the cap. The solution? A ceiling lift that can handle up to 300 lbs.

The GL1 comes well-packaged, which I appreciate because, let’s face it, shipping companies can be brutal on packages. Inside, you get an array of components, including a sturdy frame, cables, and even a mounting template. This template is a lifesaver for ensuring you drill your ceiling holes precisely where they need to be.

Installation Adventures

Installing the GL1 was no walk in the park, especially with my garage’s sloped ceiling. After laying out the parts, I realized I needed to use spacers to get everything level. A little DIY with some Ford blue-painted wood, and we were back on track.

Now, I did have a bit of a mishap during installation. A misaligned telescoping bar led to a catastrophic fail, but Fleximounts sent me a replacement without a fuss. Kudos to them for that. Lesson learned—read the instructions and make sure everything is fully extended before you start pounding things into place.

The Bronco Cap Test

With the lift installed, it was time to see if it could hoist the Bronco cap. Now, if you’ve ever attempted this, you know it’s not just a couple of bolts and off it comes. I wrestled with trim pieces and bolts before finally freeing the cap.

Using ratchet straps, I secured the cap to the lift. Cranking it up was a breeze, thanks to the low gearing designed to handle heavier loads. The cap is now safely tucked away, suspended above the garage floor, leaving me room to maneuver.

A Versatile Storage Solution

The GL1 isn’t just for Bronco caps. It’s versatile enough to store Blazer, Jeep tops, or even hard tonneau covers. With a bit of ingenuity, this lift can transform your garage storage setup. It’s perfect for getting bulky items out of the way without taking up valuable floor space.

Final Thoughts

In the end, the Fleximounts GL1 Ceiling Lift impressed me. Despite my initial snafu, it proved to be a solid, reliable piece of equipment. If you’re looking to optimize garage space or easily store a removable cap, this lift is worth considering.

Check out the full video above and see for yourself how the GL1 handled the Bronco cap. Let me know what you think, and don’t forget to like and subscribe for more garage adventures.

As always, thanks for watching, and stay tuned for more updates from Bullnose Garage!


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What are the best methods to increase a 260ci engine’s power to 340hp in Ford trucks from 1980 to 1986?


Bullnose Bill outlines performance tips for 1980-1986 Ford trucks.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Ah, the classic power quest! Getting 340 horsepower out of a 260 cubic inch (ci) engine is quite ambitious but not impossible, especially if you’re willing to put in some work and invest in a few key upgrades.

Steps to Achieve 340hp from a 260ci Engine

  1. Upgrade the Engine Components:

    • Cylinder Heads: Consider swapping to performance cylinder heads designed for your engine. Look for high-flow options to improve airflow.
    • Intake Manifold: A high-performance intake manifold can significantly boost power. Choose one that matches your intended use—either a single-plane for high RPMs or a dual-plane for better low-end torque.
    • Camshaft: Upgrading to a performance camshaft can optimize the engine’s power band. A cam with a longer duration will increase horsepower but may sacrifice some low-end torque.
  2. Fuel System Enhancements:

    • Fuel Injectors: If you’re going for a fuel-injected setup, larger injectors will help support the increased horsepower.
    • Fuel Pump: Ensure your fuel pump can supply enough fuel for the increased demand. A high-performance pump is essential.
  3. Exhaust System Upgrades:

    • A high-flow exhaust system, including headers and a performance muffler, will help expel exhaust gases more efficiently, leading to better performance.
  4. Forced Induction:

    • If you’re open to more aggressive modifications, adding a supercharger or turbocharger can be a game-changer. This approach can push your horsepower significantly while maintaining engine reliability.
  5. Tuning:

    • After all the modifications, getting a proper tune is critical. A dyno tune will ensure that your engine runs optimally with the new parts, maximizing power while keeping it reliable.

Just a Note

Keep in mind that achieving such a power level may require more than just bolt-ons; it could involve some internal engine work, like upgrading pistons and rods, especially if you want to maintain reliability.

Community Resources

For more advice and tailored suggestions, you might want to check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit or forums such as F150 Forum and Ford Trucks Forum. You’ll find plenty of enthusiasts who’ve tackled similar projects!

These classic engines can be a joy to work on, and with the right modifications, you’ll be well on your way to reaching that horsepower goal. If you have more specific questions about any of those steps, feel free to ask!


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This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.