Archives November 2025

Why does my 1980-1986 Ford Bronco battery die so quickly?


Bullnose Bill pointing at a Bronco battery and wiring while explaining common drain causes

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Alright, let’s dive into this. If your Bronco’s battery is draining quickly, there are several potential culprits. Here’s a rundown to help you troubleshoot:

Common Causes

  1. Parasitic Draw:

    • What it is: Electrical components drawing power even when the vehicle is off.
    • Check: Use a multimeter to measure the current draw. Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect the multimeter in series. A draw over 50 milliamps can be problematic.
  2. Faulty Alternator:

    • What it is: The alternator may not be charging the battery properly.
    • Check: With the engine running, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. It should read about 13.7 to 14.7 volts. If not, your alternator could be the issue.
  3. Bad Battery:

    • What it is: The battery itself might be failing.
    • Check: Test the battery voltage (should be around 12.6 volts off) and consider a load test at a local parts store.
  4. Corroded Connections:

    • What it is: Corrosion can increase resistance and prevent proper charging.
    • Check: Inspect and clean battery terminals and cable connections.
  5. Wiring Issues:

    • What it is: Damaged wires or poor grounds can cause power issues.
    • Check: Look for any damaged insulation, loose connectors, or corrosion on grounding points.

Pro Tips

  • Inspect Your Fuses: Sometimes a blown or improperly seated fuse can cause strange electrical issues.
  • Check Aftermarket Accessories: If you’ve got extras like an alarm, stereo, or lights, ensure they’re wired correctly and not drawing power continuously.

Next Steps

  • Battery Health: If the battery is old (over 3-5 years), consider replacing it.
  • Professional Help: If you’re still stumped, it might be time to consult a professional or check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit for more advice.

If you’ve got more details to share, feel free to fill me in, and we can narrow things down further!


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Where can I find lowering springs for a 1986 Ford F-150?


Bullnose Bill pointing at a 1986 F-150 suspension while explaining lowering spring options and fitment

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Lowering your 1986 F-150 can give it a sleek look and improve handling. Here’s how to get started with finding lowering springs:

Where to Look

  1. Aftermarket Suppliers

    • Companies like Belltech and DJM Suspension specialize in lowering kits for older trucks, including Bullnose Fords.
    • LMC Truck often carries a variety of suspension components for classic Ford trucks.
  2. Online Retailers

    • Websites like Summit Racing and Jegs offer a range of lowering springs and kits. Make sure to filter by your truck’s year and model.
  3. Bullnose Communities

    • The Bullnose Ford subreddit and other online forums can be great places to get recommendations and feedback on specific products.

Considerations

  • Drop Amount: Decide how much you want to lower your truck. Typical options are 2-inch or 3-inch drops. Remember, the lower you go, the more you might need to adjust other components, like shocks and alignment.

  • Quality and Brand Reputation: Stick with reputable brands to ensure you get springs that are durable and well-engineered.

  • Complete Kits: Consider purchasing a complete lowering kit that includes springs, shocks, and any necessary hardware for a balanced and properly functioning suspension.

Pro Tips

  • Alignment: After lowering, get a professional alignment to prevent uneven tire wear and handling issues.

  • Shocks: You may need shorter shocks to maintain proper suspension travel and comfort.

Lowering a Bullnose is a rewarding project that can dramatically change your truck’s stance and ride. Make sure to review installation guides or videos, possibly on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel, if you’re tackling this yourself. If not, a trusted local shop can help with the install.


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

November Newsletter

Bullnose Garage Newsletter

Bullnose Garage

Bullnose Garage Monthly: Nov 2025

Shop talk and grease-smudged updates from the garage.

Howdy Folks, Ed Here!

Welcome to the first Bullnose Garage newsletter! I figured if I’m going to spend half my life buried in engines, editing timelines, and making questionable garage projects come to life, I might as well keep you all in the loop. November was one of those months where everything seemed to happen at once: wrapping up the Cleveland video, prepping the garage for the Windsor teardown, finishing up my welding table, packing in (and out) a huge garage sale, trying not to break YouTube’s social tab, and realizing I juggle more projects than a guy with two hands and zero coordination has any right to. I bounced between script writing, scene planning, channel tweaks, and software tutorials like a man trying to catch up on stuff he ignored all summer.  Because I did. But hey, if nothing else, this newsletter gives me a chance to put all the moving parts in one place and gives you a front-row seat to the madness I keep calling a hobby.

Featured Article / Video


Building a Bullnose: The Story of My 1985 F-150

So I went looking for a simple Bullnose project, and naturally it turned into a months‑long scavenger hunt capped off by me buying a stick‑shift truck I couldn’t even drive yet. What followed was a roller‑coaster mix of repairs, upgrades, surprises, and one forklift-induced therapy session. If you want the whole saga of how a “quick project” became Bullnose Garage, buckle up. Click in and see where the trouble actually started.

Read More

New on BullnoseGarage.com

New Posts

What I’ve Been Working On

This month’s been a busy one. While finishing the 351 Cleveland video, I learned I apparently have the power to resurrect long-dead factories with AI because the Cleveland plant footage I cooked up looks so real it ought to come with a union rep. On the real-world side of the camera, most of my time has been spent getting the garage and the 351 Windsor area ready for the teardown series. I’ve been rehearsing my intro, blocking out scenes, figuring out where the camera needs to live, and generally making sure this whole thing feels intentional. It’s not just “guy with a camera in a garage” anymore, I’m trying to build a proper flow so the teardown plays like a real show instead of a security cam from Harbor Freight. I’ve also been working my way through YouTube’s social tab, trying to use it more without accidentally blasting everyone with random thoughts at 2 AM. Between that, the long-form videos, the voiceovers, and the editing experiments, I’ve kept myself pretty busy. This is the first Bullnose Garage newsletter, and we’ll see if this thing grows wings over time. It’s something I’ve wanted to do for a while… give everyone a clear monthly snapshot of what’s happening, what’s coming up, and what chaos I’ve created in the garage. Oh, and I may or may not have spent several late nights learning way too much about fiber lasers. Apparently the only thing that burns faster than a brass challenge coin is money.

Bullnose Bill's Corner

Featured Answer


1986 F-250 460: Runs, Then Dies and Blows Fuse

The poor ’86 F‑250 starts, pops a fuse, and clocks out like it’s unionized, which usually means there’s a juicy short hiding in the solenoid/ignition wiring or a ground that’s gotten lazy. Bill walks through the whole hunt—chafed wires, crusty grounds, fuse box gremlins, and the usual “did a hot wire melt itself on the manifold again?” routine. Bullnose Bill’s featured answer zeroes in on the real culprit: a short in the solenoid or ignition circuit that kills the truck and nukes the fuse. If you want the full wire‑by‑wire roadmap, go read Bill’s breakdown before your truck files for workers’ comp. 

Bill’s Answers This Month

Ask Bill a Question →

Bullnose Garage Merch

Burnout Truck Built Tough Unisex Tri-Blend T-Shirt

Burnout Truck Built Tough Unisex Tri-Blend T-Shirt

28.49

Greatest Truck Ever Unisex Stars & Stripes T-Shirt

Greatest Truck Ever Unisex Stars & Stripes T-Shirt

28.49

Bullnose Garage Coin Logo Pigment Dyed Trucker Hat

Bullnose Garage Coin Logo Pigment Dyed Trucker Hat

18.99

Product of the Month

How to Shoot Video That Doesn't Suck

Shop Now

How to Shoot Video That Doesn't Suck

How to Shoot Video That Doesn’t Suck is basically the shop manual your camera wishes you’d read. No fluff, no film-school snobbery… just straight-up, practical advice that keeps your footage from looking like you duct-taped a GoPro to a squirrel. It teaches you how to think like a storyteller instead of a guy waving a lens around hoping for the best. If you want your videos to feel intentional, punchy, and actually watchable this book shows you how to get there without needing Hollywood money or Hollywood patience. Even if all you’re doing is shooting vacation shots or your kids’ soccer games, it will make showing videos to your relatives way less painful… for them.

Deep in the Garage (Patreon)

Featured Post


I Thought I Dented My Rim… Turns Out I Didn’t

Here’s the highlight: Turns out that “dent” in my Bassett rim wasn’t me being a klutz—it was the factory leaving me a little love note in the form of a heat‑shrink valley. I walk through the whole detective job and how I’m cleaning it up without firing up the welder, and yes, the dramatic size difference between “what I remembered” and “reality” gets exposed too. All the behind-the-scenes details are tucked behind the Patreon gate if you want the full tour.

Patreon Posts This Month


  • A little something for my wife


    This last spring I spent weeks… WEEKS… building a new chicken coop for our flock. We've got 7 chickens and had two turkeys. I guess we still have the turkeys but they're not in the…

  • When Gear Shifts Go Bad


    I was trying to get Sora AI to create a nice simple gear shifting B-Roll I could use for my M5OD video and it turned into a bit of an exercise in futility. For every…

  • This Week in the Garage – November 7, 2025


    The garage isn’t much of a garage this week… it’s a garage sale. Which means there’s no shooting, grinding, or truck work happening… just folding tables, baby clothes, and the occasional argument about what’s “too…

  • Garage Clean, Hands Dirty


    Well, it finally happened… the garage is clean. I’m not talking about the “sweep it out and call it good” kind of clean either. I mean there’s actually floor space again. After the garage sale…

  • Behind the Counter: The Whiteboard Wall


    I finally got tired of squinting at a tiny whiteboard across the shop and pretending it was “enough space” for an engine diagram. So, I went a little overboard… literally. I mounted a full 8-foot-wide…

If you want to see more and get the full versions of these posts, check out my Patreon! https://patreon.com/c/bullnosegarage.

Build Progress

351 Windsor Build

The Windsor videos are slowly climbing back into the spotlight thanks to the channel’s recent momentum. I’ve been planning out the next steps… getting the engine on the stand, prepping it for the machine shop, and mapping out the full series from teardown to quarter-mile run. I’m also still juggling which shop is going to do the machining, what I’m filming there, and how far I can push this build before my wallet taps out and begs for mercy.

1985 F-150

Not much hands-on wrenching this month, but the truck is still front-and-center as the “main character” in the upcoming engine swap storyline. Most of the work has been behind the scenes: writing, planning, organizing, and making sure the entire series from teardown to road test actually makes sense on camera. The NP435 swap decision is still floating somewhere between “rational” and “maybe I just like making my life complicated.”

1982 Bronco

The Bronco hasn’t gotten much love this month, mostly because the 351 (both Windsor and Cleveland) stuff has been eating my life. The tires are just old enough that I don’t trust them for anything serious but I’ve moved it around a bit and at least put the air cleaner back on so it’s not sitting in the garage looking like a parts bin exploded all over my floor. The real progress is in the planning phase. I’m still locked in on the desert crawler direction: TTB stays, 35s down the road, probably a 4-inch lift with a 1-inch body lift so it sits right without going full monster truck. I drilled and tapped the Basset wheels to accept the old Ford center caps (See the video!) and yes… I’ll be running non DOT wheels on it. Sue me. (Please don’t.) And the boosted inline-six dream is still alive and kicking in my notebook.

The Channel

The channel’s been growing steadily, and the engine videos are still carrying the flag.  They’re way more popular than my in-garage content but I try to mix it up so us Bullnose guys have some real world content to chew on too. The Cleveland video is shaping up nicely thanks to all the extra VO, B-roll, and a little AI wizardry. I’ve also been working on learning After Effects by building out more animated promos.  Hopefully you guys don’t find them too annoying.
 
Behind the curtain, I’ve also been refining my content workflow hard this month: better scenes, better beats, better transitions, and letting myself do mid-edit fixes instead of treating them like failure. Turns out the “Editor Ed” interruptions might be one of my new favorite parts of the video.  They give a good break and let me review my work before final polish.  I actually end up catching quite a bit while I’m editing.
 
I also finished the audiobook “How to Shoot Video That Doesn’t Suck” by Steve Stockman. It’s short, entertaining, and surprisingly useful. I don’t agree with everything he says, especially when it comes to the kind of YouTube videos I make, but I still pulled a ton of good ideas from it. So yeah… y’all better appreciate the work I’m putting in to make this stuff entertaining. 🙂

Thanks Again for Reading

Thanks for hanging out with me in the garage today. I appreciate you more than you know. Every view, every comment, every shared story about your own truck keeps this whole thing fun. See you next time!

If you want to dig deeper into the builds, check out the latest videos, or support the channel, here are a few places to find me:

🔧 YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@bullnosegarage
🔥 Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bullnosegarage
🛠️ Website: https://bullnosegarage.com

Thanks again for being part of the Bullnose crew.

Bullnose Garage Newsletter
© 2025 Bullnose Garage and Duskrider Design LLC

If you’re done with the garage chaos, no hard feelings: unsubscribe here.

Can replacing the starter module fix misfires and a rough idle on a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat?


Bullnose Bill beside a red-white 1986 F250, pointing at the engine while explaining starter module, misfires, and rough idle.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

A misfire and rough idle are usually not directly related to the starter module. The starter module’s main job is to help start the engine. Once the engine is running, the module isn’t involved.

Possible Causes for Misfires and Rough Idle:

  1. Ignition System:

    • Spark Plugs and Wires: Worn plugs or damaged wires can cause misfires.
    • Distributor Cap and Rotor: Check for wear or carbon tracking.
    • Ignition Coil: A failing coil might not provide enough spark.
  2. Fuel System:

    • Fuel Filter: A clogged filter can reduce fuel flow.
    • Fuel Pump: If it’s weak, you might have fuel delivery issues.
    • Injectors: Dirty or clogged injectors can cause problems.
  3. Air Intake System:

    • Vacuum Leaks: Check hoses and gaskets for leaks.
    • Air Filter: A dirty filter can restrict airflow.
  4. Sensors:

    • O2 Sensors: Faulty sensors can affect fuel mixture.
    • MAP/MAF Sensors: If they’re sending incorrect signals, it can cause a rough idle.

Steps to Diagnose:

  • Check for Trouble Codes: If you have an OBD-I scanner, see if any codes are stored.
  • Inspect Ignition Components: Look for obvious signs of wear or damage.
  • Test Fuel Pressure: Ensure your fuel pump and filter are working properly.
  • Inspect for Vacuum Leaks: Listen for hissing sounds or use carb cleaner around gaskets and hoses.

If you’re unsure or need a deeper dive, there might be a video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that covers some of these diagnostics. You can also check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit for shared experiences from other enthusiasts.

Feel free to ask if you have more details or need further guidance!


User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

Can a stock 1986 F250 XLT Lariat fit 33-inch tires without modifications?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Fitting 33-inch tires on a stock 1986 F250 XLT Lariat is possible, but you might run into a few challenges.

Considerations:

  1. Clearance:

    • You may experience some rubbing, especially during full turns or when the suspension is compressed.
  2. Suspension:

    • A slight lift (like a leveling kit) might be needed to provide enough clearance for those larger tires.
  3. Gearing:

    • Larger tires can affect your gearing and overall performance. You might notice a drop in acceleration or increased strain on the drivetrain.
  4. Speedometer:

    • Your speedometer may read incorrectly due to the larger tire diameter.

Recommendations:

  • Test Fit: If possible, test fit the tires to see if they clear.
  • Consider a Lift: A small suspension lift can make all the difference.
  • Adjust Gearing: If performance is affected, consider re-gearing the differential.

If you need a more detailed guide, the Bullnose Garage channel might have content on suspension setup and tire fitting. Let me know if you need more help!

User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

What lift or leveling height is needed to fit 12-inch-wide tires on a 1986 F250?

Bill avatar

Bill:

To fit 33×12.5-inch tires on your 1986 F250, a small lift or leveling kit should suffice, but you’ll need to consider a few things:

Lift Recommendations:

  1. Leveling Kit (1.5 to 2 inches):

    • This may provide enough clearance for the wider tires, especially if you’re mainly concerned about rubbing at the front.
  2. Suspension Lift (2 to 4 inches):

    • A lift in this range ensures better clearance and reduces the chance of rubbing when turning or articulating.

Additional Considerations:

  • Wheel Backspacing:

    • Ensure your wheels have the correct backspacing to avoid inner fender contact.
  • Fender Trimming:

    • Minor trimming of the fender or inner fender liner might be necessary, depending on your specific setup.
  • Alignment:

    • After lifting, get a proper alignment to ensure good handling and tire wear.

It’s always a good idea to see if there’s relevant info on the Bullnose Garage channel or check with fellow enthusiasts on the Bullnose Ford subreddit. Let me know if you need more guidance!

User avatar

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User:

What is the typical cost for a leveling kit for a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat?

Bill avatar

Bill:

A leveling kit for your 1986 F250 typically costs between $50 and $200, depending on the brand and components included. Here’s what to consider:

Cost Breakdown:

  1. Basic Kits:

    • Simple spacers usually range from $50 to $100.
  2. Premium Kits:

    • Kits with additional components like new shocks or extended coils can cost between $150 to $200.

Installation:

  • DIY Installation:

    • If you’re handy with tools, you can save on labor costs by installing it yourself.
  • Professional Installation:

    • Expect to pay an additional $100 to $300 for a shop to do the install, depending on local rates.

Recommendations:

  • Research Brands: Read reviews and consider reputable brands for quality.
  • Consider a Package: Some kits come with alignment options or additional hardware.

If you’re diving into this project, it might be worth checking the Bullnose Garage channel for installation tips or tutorials.

User avatar

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User:

What are the best performance and reliability upgrades for a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat SuperCab?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Upgrading your 1986 F250 XLT Lariat SuperCab can enhance its performance, comfort, and style. Here are some top upgrades to consider:

Performance Upgrades:

  1. Exhaust System:

    • A high-flow exhaust can improve horsepower and give your truck a deeper tone.
  2. Air Intake:

    • A cold air intake increases airflow to the engine, boosting performance.
  3. Ignition System:

    • Upgrading to high-performance spark plugs and wires can improve efficiency and firing consistency.
  4. Suspension:

    • Consider upgrading to heavy-duty shocks or a small lift for better ride quality and off-road capability.

Comfort and Convenience:

  1. Interior Refresh:

    • New seat covers, dash pads, or carpet kits can rejuvenate the cabin.
  2. Sound System:

    • A modern stereo with Bluetooth and upgraded speakers enhances your driving experience.
  3. AC System:

    • If your AC is lacking, consider a retrofit or upgrade kit for better cooling.

Exterior Enhancements:

  1. Lighting:

    • LED headlights and auxiliary lights improve visibility and appearance.
  2. Wheels and Tires:

    • A fresh set of wheels and tires can transform the truck’s look and performance.
  3. Body Protection:

    • Add features like grille guards or bed liners for durability and utility.

Practical Tips:

  • Budget Wisely: Prioritize upgrades based on your needs and budget.
  • Research: Look for quality parts from reputable sources.

For more detailed guides, check out Bullnose Garage videos or the Bullnose Ford subreddit for advice from other enthusiasts. Let me know if you need more specific info on any of these upgrades!

User avatar

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User:

Which Detroit Diesel engine swaps are compatible with a 1986 F250 chassis?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Swapping a Detroit Diesel into your 1986 F250 is a hefty project, but a popular choice is the Detroit Diesel 4-53. Here’s what you need to know:

Compatibility and Considerations:

  1. Engine Size and Weight:

    • The 4-53 is a relatively compact option for a diesel swap, but it’s still heavier than a gas engine. Make sure your suspension can handle the added weight.
  2. Transmission:

    • You’ll likely need a different transmission or an adapter for your existing one. The manual transmissions (like the T-19) might pair better with a diesel.
  3. Motor Mounts and Fabrication:

    • Custom motor mounts and fabrication work will be necessary to fit the engine in the bay.
  4. Cooling System:

    • Upgrade the radiator and cooling system to handle the diesel engine’s heat output.
  5. Electrical and Fuel Systems:

    • Diesel engines require different electrical and fuel system setups. Plan for wiring changes and a diesel fuel tank.

Challenges:

  • Space Constraints: Ensure you have enough room in the engine bay.
  • Regulatory Compliance: Check local emissions and swap regulations.

Recommendations:

  • Research Thoroughly: Look at forums and communities for guidance from those who’ve done similar swaps.
  • Professional Help: Consider consulting a professional for parts of the swap if you’re not experienced with diesel engines.

If you’re looking for more info or inspiration, the Bullnose Garage channel or Bullnose Ford subreddit might have related content. Let me know if you have other questions!

User avatar

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User:

What is the value of a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat extended-cab long bed with 44K miles, 460 V8, automatic, minimal surface rust, and working options?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Valuing a classic like your 1986 F250 XLT Lariat involves several factors. Here’s a breakdown:

Factors Affecting Value:

  1. Condition:

    • Minimal rust and low mileage (44k) are huge positives.
  2. Original Features:

    • Factory bucket seats, functional AC, and power options add to its value.
  3. Engine and Transmission:

    • A functioning 460 motor and automatic transmission are desirable.
  4. Market Demand:

    • Interest in Bullnose Fords has been rising, which can increase value.

Estimated Value:

  • General Range:

    • You might see values from $10,000 to $20,000, depending on the buyer and market.
  • Regional Variations:

    • Prices can vary based on location and demand in your area.

Tips for Maximizing Value:

  1. Documentation:

    • Keep any service records and original paperwork.
  2. Cosmetics:

    • Address any minor cosmetic issues, like surface rust, to enhance appeal.
  3. Market Research:

    • Check online listings and auctions for similar vehicles to gauge current trends.

Remember, actual sales can vary, so it’s wise to consult with a classic car appraiser for a more precise valuation. If you want to connect with other enthusiasts, the Bullnose Ford subreddit could be a helpful community.

User avatar

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User:

How do complete service records and an Illinois (Midwest) location affect the resale value of my 1986 F250?

Bill avatar

Bill:

With complete service records and being in Illinois, your 1986 F250 XLT Lariat is in a good spot for value. Here’s a refined estimate:

Midwest Market Value:

  • Estimated Range: $12,000 to $22,000.
    • Top End: Exceptional condition and documentation can push you toward the higher end.

Selling Tips:

  1. Highlight Documentation:

    • Emphasize complete service history in listings.
  2. Local Demand:

    • Check local classifieds and online marketplaces to see what similar trucks are listed for.
  3. Showcase Condition:

    • High-quality photos and detailed descriptions can attract more serious buyers.

Remember, prices fluctuate, so it’s wise to see what’s happening in the market. Good luck! If you need more advice, feel free to ask.

User avatar

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User:

What are good names for a red-and-white 1986 ‘Bullnose’ F250?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Naming your Bullnose is a fun way to personalize it. Here are a few suggestions:

  1. Big Red
  2. Rusty
  3. Crimson Cruiser
  4. Bullseye
  5. Scarlet Steed
  6. Cherry Bomb
  7. Old Glory
  8. Red Rover

Choose a name that resonates with your truck’s personality and your style. Enjoy the ride!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Resistor wire and ignition coil compatibility for 1980-1986 Ford F-Series trucks


Bullnose Bill points to a 1980s Ford F-Series ignition coil and resistor wire, explaining fitment and failure signs.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Alright, let’s dive into the ignition coil resistor wire for your Bullnose Ford. This wire is a key component in the ignition system, reducing the voltage from the battery to prevent coil overheating.

Purpose of the Resistor Wire

  • Voltage Reduction: The resistor wire drops the voltage from 12 volts to about 9 volts during normal operation. This prolongs the life of your ignition coil and points.
  • Starting: During engine start, full battery voltage bypasses the resistor to provide a hotter spark.

Common Issues

  1. Starting Problems: If the truck cranks but doesn’t start, a faulty resistor wire might not be delivering the right voltage.
  2. Overheating Coil: If the coil gets too hot, the resistor wire might be bypassed or shorted.
  3. Voltage Testing: Use a multimeter to check voltage at the coil with the engine running. You should see around 9 volts.

Replacement Tips

  • OEM Spec: Stick with OEM-spec resistor wire to ensure proper voltage drop.
  • Routing: Ensure the wire is routed away from heat sources to prevent damage.
  • Connections: Check all connections for corrosion or looseness, which can cause voltage drop issues.

Pro Tips

  • Bypass During Testing: Temporarily bypass the resistor wire for testing purposes, but don’t run it this way for long — it’ll wear out the coil.
  • Check Grounds: Make sure all grounds are clean and secure, as poor grounding can mimic resistor wire issues.

If you’re unsure about any step, checking out related videos on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel might be helpful. If you’ve got more questions, feel free to ask!


User avatar

User:

Where to find replacement resistor wire and ignition coil for 1980-1986 Ford F-Series

Bill avatar

Bill:

Finding a replacement resistor wire for your Bullnose Ford can be straightforward if you know where to look. Here are some options:

Where to Find Replacement Resistor Wire

  1. Auto Parts Stores: Check out local stores like AutoZone, NAPA, or O’Reilly. They often have listings for classic Ford ignition parts.

  2. Online Retailers: Websites like RockAuto or Summit Racing offer a wide range of parts for older vehicles. Just ensure the part matches your truck’s year and model.

  3. Specialty Suppliers: Consider suppliers that specialize in classic Ford parts. They might offer more accurate OEM-style replacements.

  4. Salvage Yards: Sometimes, you can find usable parts in salvage yards. It’s a bit of a treasure hunt, but you might get lucky.

Installation Tips

  • Compare Before Installing: Make sure the new wire matches the length and resistance of the original.
  • Secure Properly: Use clips or ties to keep the wire away from high heat or moving parts.

If you’re still searching, there may be more specific advice or suggestions on the Bullnose Ford subreddit, which can be a great resource. Let me know if there’s anything else you need!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What is the engine oil capacity for a 1986 F-150 XLT Lariat with the 351W Windsor V8?


Bullnose Bill pointing at the 351W engine bay of a 1986 F-150 XLT Lariat while explaining oil and fluids.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

For your 1986 F-150 with a 351 Windsor, you’ll need about 6 quarts of oil, including the oil filter. Always double-check the dipstick after filling to ensure it’s at the correct level. Make sure to use the right viscosity, typically 10W-30, but check your owner’s manual or local climate recommendations. If you need more maintenance tips, feel free to ask!


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User:

How much transmission fluid does a 1986 F-150 XLT Lariat with the 351W hold?

Bill avatar

Bill:

For your 1986 F-150 with a 351W, the type and amount of transmission fluid depend on the transmission model:

Automatic Transmission (C6)

  • Fluid Type: Mercon/Dexron III
  • Capacity: Around 12-13 quarts for a full system drain and refill, but about 4-5 quarts if you’re just doing a pan drop and filter change.

Manual Transmission (if applicable, such as T-18)

  • Fluid Type: Use gear oil, typically 80W-90.
  • Capacity: About 3.5 to 4 quarts.

Always check the specific service manual for exact specifications and consider inspecting the condition of the fluid and filter. Let me know if you have more questions!

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User:

Does a 1986 F-150 351W require Mercon or Dexron III transmission fluid?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Yes, for your C6 automatic transmission, Mercon/Dexron III is recommended. It’s formulated to provide the right friction characteristics and protection. While there are newer fluids on the market, sticking with Mercon/Dexron III ensures compatibility and performance. If you have any concerns or modifications, it’s always a good idea to consult a transmission specialist.

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User:

How much coolant is needed to flush and refill the cooling system on a 1986 F-150 351W?

Bill avatar

Bill:

For your 1986 F-150, you’ll need about 16-18 quarts of coolant for a complete flush and refill of the cooling system. This includes the radiator, engine block, and heater core.

Tips:

  • Mix: Use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water unless you’re using pre-mixed coolant.
  • Type: An ethylene glycol-based coolant is typically recommended.
  • Bleeding: After refilling, make sure to properly bleed air from the system to avoid air pockets, which can cause overheating.

Feel free to ask more if you need help with the flushing process!

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User:

What is the proper procedure to bleed air from the cooling system on a 1986 F-150 351W?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Bleeding the air from your cooling system is crucial to prevent overheating. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Steps to Bleed Air from the Cooling System

  1. Park on Level Ground:

    • Ensure your truck is on a flat surface and the engine is cool.
  2. Open the Radiator Cap:

    • Remove the radiator cap to release any pressure.
  3. Fill the Radiator:

    • Fill the radiator with a 50/50 coolant mix until it’s full.
  4. Fill the Coolant Reservoir:

    • Make sure the coolant reservoir is filled to the "Full" line.
  5. Start the Engine:

    • Turn on the engine and let it idle. Set the heater to the maximum setting to help circulate coolant.
  6. Observe Coolant Level:

    • As the engine warms, air bubbles may escape, causing the coolant level to drop. Add more coolant as needed.
  7. Rev the Engine Gently:

    • Occasionally rev the engine gently (around 2000 RPM) to help purge air pockets.
  8. Check for Air Bubbles:

    • Watch for escaping bubbles at the radiator opening. Continue until bubbles stop appearing.
  9. Replace the Radiator Cap:

    • Once the system is bled and coolant level is stable, replace the radiator cap.
  10. Monitor and Test Drive:

    • Take the truck for a short drive, then check coolant levels again once the engine cools.

Pro Tips

  • Heater Output: If the heater doesn’t blow hot air, there might still be air in the system.
  • Safety: Use caution, as coolant can reach high temperatures.

Let me know if you have more questions!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.