Archives November 2025

Published on November 28, 2025

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Part of the Ford Engines series.

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Show Transcript
Ford builds a small block with race-bred canted valves and ports big enough to swallow a flashlight, then kills it after just a few years. If the 351 Cleveland was so good, why didn’t it keep going? Welcome back to Bono’s Garage. If you’ve ever stared down a Cleveland 4V intake port, you know it’s not your garden-variety small block. It’s a hallway: canted valves, massive cross-section, and a chamber design that was so far ahead of the gas you could buy at the pump it was crazy. So here’s the question again: if the 351 Cleveland was that good, why did it die a quiet death? Today we’ll tell the whole story, including the crazy head engineering, boiling issues, and how to build one that doesn’t suck. Then we’ll settle the Cleveland versus Windsor debate like grown-ups. By the end of this video you’ll know exactly how to spot a real 4V head, why quench is more than a buzzword, and how the Cleveland small block made big-block power through airflow and physics. From conception to early death, and from American muscle to Aussie street heroes, this is everything that made the 351 Cleveland the most misunderstood Ford small block ever built. This is your 351 Cleveland masterclass. Look back at the late ’60s and Ford was all in on racing. They’d just blown the doors off Le Mans with the 427 side-oiler in ’66. Between NASCAR and Trans Am, Ford’s engineers had learned one thing: airflow wins races. The faster you could spin it, the more power you made, but that only worked if your heads could move enough air to keep up. At the same time, the Windsor plant in Canada couldn’t keep up with small-block demand, so Ford’s engine engineers in Cleveland, Ohio were told to build their own version. The mission was simple: build a small block that could take a deep breath at high RPM, then drop it into street cars and let the image sell the hardware. Racing credibility sold cars. If the same basic engine powered Boss Mustangs and stock cars, it wouldn’t just win trophies, it would win showroom traffic. Enter the 351 Cleveland. What came out wasn’t just a copy; it was a whole new take on how a small block could breathe. It was a small block by Ford standards but used big-block thinking up top. The heads were a clean-sheet design, and on paper it looked incredible: massive ports, canted valves similar to the 429 and 460, and big valve sizes that let it breathe like an engine almost twice its size. It sat next to the Windsor on the showroom floor. The Cleveland was the hot ticket for a couple of shining years—Boss 351s, Panteras, Torinos—all running a small block that could hang with the best from GM and Mopar. It had the swagger, it had the numbers, and for a while it had the spotlight. North American production kicked off in 1970 and wound down after 1974. That is quick. In that window the lineup included the 351C 2V for street torque, the 351C 4V for high-RPM heroics, the one-year Boss 351 in ’71 that showed what the architecture could do, and later Cobra Jet variants when emissions and lower compression started kneecapping the party. The 351 Cleveland was the first member of what Ford called the 335 engine family. The name came from management’s insistence that the engine be greater than 335 cubic inches, and it stuck as the project name. The family shared a lot of design DNA: wide pan rails, canted-valve heads, and castings meant to be modular across cars and trucks. Something that could scale from a high-revving 351 for Mustangs and Torinos to a torquey 400 for full-size cars and pickups. I’ll save the M-block and 400 story for another video, but remember: the Cleveland wasn’t a one-off. It was the starting point for a whole generation of Ford V8s built around airflow, strength, and modular casting. So why did it fade so quickly? A few reasons stacked up, and if you’ve seen my other videos about engines from this era, the main chorus is the same: emissions rules turned brutal and compression came down. Those massive 4V ports needed a cam, aggressive gear ratios, and a high-flow carb to shine — things that became harder and harder to justify. Insurance companies didn’t help; they started hammering high-compression, high-horsepower cars with premium hikes so steep that buyers were paying more to insure a car than to own it. Anything with a big cam or high compression got labeled high risk, and Ford’s performance engines were in the crosshairs. Profit-wise, Ford already had tooling, supply chains, and a massive aftermarket built around the Windsor block. The Windsor plant in Ontario had been cranking out small blocks since the early ’60s; it had huge production capacity, established supply lines, and many livelihoods tied to keeping those machines running. The Cleveland plant, by contrast, was newer, smaller, and building an engine that didn’t share many components with the rest of Ford’s lineup. So when the early ’70s hit with tighter emissions, pricier fuel, and punitive insurance, it wasn’t even a close boardroom call. The Cleveland wasn’t killed because it was bad — it was killed because the world around it changed, and the Windsor fit that world better. Australia didn’t face the same tug-of-war. They had already invested heavily in Cleveland tooling for the Falcon GTs and doubled down, continuing to develop the heads and refine the chambers year after year. To be clear, Ford stopped building the 351C in the U.S. after the 1974 model year, but the Cleveland engine plant itself kept going and was retooled for newer engines — everything from small V6s to more modern units — and stayed active for decades after the Cleveland V8 was gone. While Ford in the U.S. moved on to the 351M and 400 in the Windsor family, Australia initially imported complete 351Cs from the U.S., then stockpiled about 60,000 American cast blocks when Dearborn stopped production. Once those ran low, Ford Australia started casting their own Cleveland blocks at the Gong Foundry. That’s where the 302C and the Aussie 351 came from — the same basic Cleveland design, but smaller. Ports and those closed-chamber heads everybody loves today. That tells you something important: the Cleveland wasn’t a dead end; it was a victim of timing and priorities here in the States. Normally in an engine video I would start by talking about the block, but what makes the Cleveland engine special are the heads. The Cleveland engine shipped with two different head configurations from the factory: 2V and 4V. The V doesn’t stand for valve, as you might think, but for Venturi, since they were meant to be paired with two-barrel or four-barrel carburetors. All Cleveland heads were two-valve heads. The primary difference was the breathing design. 4V heads were designed to breathe far more, with huge intake and exhaust ports. Before we get deep into ports and chambers, we need to speak the same language: two quick concepts, shrouding and quench. Shrouding is your straight-valve setup, like a Windsor or a traditional small block. When the valve opens and gets close to the cylinder wall, the air gets pinched off. That shrouding kills low- and mid-lift flow — the RPM range where street engines usually live. The canted valve arrangement is typical of Cleveland heads. The valve is tilted back and away from the wall, so as it opens it unshrouds itself. You get much more flow without needing a monster cam. Ford didn’t invent this for the Cleveland; they borrowed it from the 429 and 460 big blocks — it works there and it works here. Quench refers to a closed-chamber design. The flat pad is the quench pad. When the piston comes up, the gap between the piston and pad is really tight, about 0.035 to 0.040 inches. That squishes the mixture across the chamber, forcing the air and fuel to tumble and mix, which speeds up the burn and helps fight detonation because the charge burns fast and predictably instead of lazy and patchy. Compare that to an open chamber, where Ford basically milled out the whole section into a big bowl: no real squish or tumble and a lazier burn. That worked for emissions but not for throttle response or knock resistance. That’s why the early closed-chamber 4V heads are so desirable. In the U.S., every 2V head got the open chamber; only the early 4V heads had the good closed quench. But down in Australia, Ford kept the smaller 2V ports. Street velocity, and they also kept the closed chamber. That’s why the Aussie heads are the hot street combo today: small ports, good velocity, and real quench. Now that we have those two ideas straight, let’s talk about the ports themselves. Cleveland 4V heads were absolutely unhinged for a production small block: huge intake runners, gigantic valves, with that canted layout and almost no shrouding at the gasket. The 4V intake port window is about 2.5 by 1.75 inches — that’s the size of a Motorola power brick. That brick-sized hole is feeding 2.19-inch intake and 1.71-inch exhaust valves — that’s the bottom of a spray can and the size of a challenge coin, respectively. That’s how Ford ended up with a small block that breathes like a big block. The 2V ports pull things back to reality: a much smaller window, more like a dog tag, but still with canted valves. Still good flow, just tuned for street velocity instead of 7,000 RPM dyno pulls. You lose some top-end bragging rights, but the engine wakes up much earlier in the RPM range, which on real roads actually matters more. All factory Cleveland heads were cast iron; there were no aluminum options from Ford. The early closed-quench 4V chambers measured around 61 to 63 cc, while the later open-chamber 4V and all 2V heads were closer to 74 to 77 cc. That change alone dropped compression almost a full point. Most early 4V engines ran roughly 10.7:1 compression, while later open-chamber versions were closer to 9:1 or even the high eights depending on piston dish and how far the piston sits in the bore from the factory. Back in the early ’70s that mattered because premium meant high-octane, leaded fuel. When unleaded and lower-octane blends took over, those high-compression closed-chamber combos became picky about spark advance and fuel quality. The open chambers were Ford’s answer: cheaper to build, burned cleaner, and tolerated the lousy pump gas of the era. Those two head designs gave the Cleveland a split personality depending on your head choice — brutal on the track with a 4V and high compression, or smooth and drivable on the street with a 2V and open chambers. To tell the difference between Cleveland heads, look at the intake face: 4V ports are rectangles big enough to lose a socket in, while 2Vs are shorter and more oval. If you can inspect more closely, verify by using casting numbers on the underside of an intake runner after the intake is off; the date code is also under the valve cover. Underneath the Cleveland block itself is a stout piece of iron with surprisingly good main webbing for a small block of its era. The deck height is 9.206 inches, putting it squarely in small-block territory. The rotating assembly geometry is well balanced for RPM. With a 4-inch bore and 3.5-inch stroke, the 351C carries a 1.65:1 rod ratio thanks to its 5.780-inch connecting rods, which helps it rev cleanly as long as the rest of the combo is built to let it breathe. The main journals measure 2.75 inches, smaller than the 3-inch mains used in later 351M and 400 engines, which means less bearing speed and less drag at high RPM. Crank journals are wide and strong. Clevelands can handle 6,000-plus RPM without drama if the clearances and balances are right. A bare Cleveland block weighs about 190–210 lb, and a complete long block tips the scale near 525 to 575 lb depending on accessories and intake choice. That’s right in line with other Ford small blocks, but a little heavier than a Windsor thanks to beefier castings and heads. It uses the same firing order as the 351 Windsor. Where people really start arguing is the oiling path. You’ll hear folks say that the Cleveland feeds the top end first or that it starves the mains because of how the galleries are laid out, and that’s close to the truth but not the whole picture. The oil pump sends pressure straight up the front of the block right next to the number-one main and cam bearings, and a diagram can make it look like those bearings should get oil first. Hydraulically, though, oil takes the path of least resistance, and in a Cleveland that path is the big right-side lifter gallery. It’s a long, wide passage that feeds all eight right-side lifters and several cam bearings, so oil rushes down that gallery before it commits to dropping into the mains. Once the galleries fill and the system builds pressure, the mains then start getting their share, so the number-one bearing isn’t dry—it’s just not first in priority. At low RPM none of this is a big deal because there’s plenty of pressure to go around, but when you spin a Cleveland hard those big lifter bores and generous passages become a large leak path. The top end can dump more oil than the pump can replace, and since the mains are last in the hydraulic order they’re the ones that pay the price. That’s why serious builders talk about lifter bushings, gallery restrictors, and matching the right pump to the build. Bushings and restrictors tighten the leak paths, and a high-volume pump keeps pressure where the crank needs it. Do that, and a Cleveland will run north of 6,000 rpm all day long without losing a bearing. A fun bit of Ford trivia: the Cleveland’s oiling reputation gets compared to the old FE engines, especially the early center-oilers. Those FEs fed the crank last, which is why Ford introduced the famous side-oiler. The Cleveland isn’t the same situation, but the symptoms are similar. Why didn’t they give the Cleveland the same fix? Timing, priorities, and cost. Ford was designing a high-volume street motor that needed to meet emissions and cost targets, not a race engine. At normal street RPM that’s no problem; the issue only shows up when you spin it hard for long stretches, exactly what racers love to do, and racers then hot-rodded the valve system. One more thing to note if you’re building one: most production Clevelands run a non-adjustable valve train. That means stamped rockers on cast pedestals, the same setup Ford used on their big 429 and 460 engines. The hydraulic lifters take up the slack automatically, so there’s no lash to set with a wrench. If you need more or less preload, you change the pushrod length. Shim the fulp. The Boss 351 and later 351 HO were the exceptions. They got screw-in studs, guide plates, and solid lifters, which meant a fully adjustable setup built for real RPM. That’s one of the reasons those two are the ones everybody still talks about. The name of the game with this engine is airflow. Induction strategy is where you make or break a Cleveland. A 4V with a tiny cam and a lazy dual-plane intake can feel like a tractor that lost its wallet until about 3,000 RPM. That’s not the engine’s fault; that’s mismatched parts. The 4V’s massive, 250-ish cc intake runners move a ton of air up front, but they need velocity to work down low. Give it some cam duration, decent lift, and an intake that actually feeds those ports. Then back it up with real gear and converter, and suddenly the lazy disappears. You get exactly what Ford intended: the top-end freight train. On the 2V, you can lean toward a shorter cam, keep the dual plane, and enjoy crisp throttle and street torque. The smaller 190-to-210 cc ports build velocity fast, which means better low-end pull and clear mixture motion through the midrange. Carb sizing matters. Don’t strangle it, but don’t slap on a barn door either. A well-calibrated 650 to 750 CFM carb is perfect for most 351C street builds, while a hotter 4V combo loves 750 to 850 CFM when the RPM is there. If you go EFI, the giant-port personality of the 4V gets a little friendlier at low speed. Modern fuel control and injector timing help fill in that off-idle hole and make the Cleveland behave like a high-tech small block it always kind of wanted to be. There are a lot of terms around, so let’s narrow in on variance for a moment because the term Cleveland covered a few different animals. I’ve already gone over the head versions, but it’s worth looking again in relation to where they all ended up within the larger Cleveland line. To start with, here’s how the codes break down. The H code was the 2V street engine. The M code was the hot, closed-chamber 4V. The R code was a solid-lifter Boss. The later Q code was the tamed-down Cobra Jet with open chambers for emissions. The letters changed, but the heart of the Cleveland stayed the same. Down in Australia, things got interesting. The Aussie 302 C and 51C heads blended the best traits: two V-sized ports for velocity with closed quench chambers for detonation resistance. That combo made a lot of street builds feel stronger than the spec sheet would suggest. They’re the full caro of Cleveland swaps for a reason. You’ll find Clevelands in Mustangs, Torinos, and even the Tomaso Penta where that high-flow 4V really showed off. Across the Pacific, Australian Falcons were out there turning the same architecture into Brathurst racing legend. Here’s a list compiled from known factory data and enthusiast sources. Local options or export versions may differ. Before we move on, a quick name trap: the 351M and 400 are part of the same 335 engine family, but they’re not true Clevelands. They use a taller deck, larger mains, and a different bell-housing pattern. Some parts interchange, but if you call a 351M a Cleveland, be ready for an internet jockey to call you a noob. Let’s talk about what usually trips people up with these engines and what actually fixes it. First up: oiling and RPM. I’ve said before, the Cleveland’s oil system can starve the mains if you spin it hard with loose clearances or worn The fix depends on how wild your build is. For serious engines, lifter bore bushings keep oil where it belongs. You can also add restrictors to the lifter galleries to slow down the flow upstairs. As always, match your oil pump to the combo. A high-volume pump is great when the system is set up for it, but it’s just a band-aid if you’re masking wear or bad geometry. Cleveland cooling is different. It wants the correct Cleveland-style thermostat or a restrictor plate. There’s a bypass passage built into the housing that needs to be managed so the engine reaches temperature and circulates correctly. The proper thermostat has a little hat or sleeve that closes the bypass once it’s warm. If you’re on a Windsor-style thermostat, that bypass stays open and you’ll have weird warm-ups, hot spots in the heads, and an engine that always seems too warm no matter what you do. These blocks and heads have been around for 50 years or more. You’ll see core shift, valve guide wear, and the occasional mystery machine work from a previous rebuild. If you’re planning a major rebuild, get the block sonic checked before you spend money on parts. On the heads, check valve guides and seats carefully. Detonation on open-chamber heads is a real concern. With modern pump gas, you can’t get away with the same compression and timing those engines ran on leaded premium. Open-chamber 4V heads especially can rattle if you push them too hard. If you’re chasing power, a modern aftermarket head with a tighter heart-shaped chamber is a smart upgrade. More on that later. There are a few different ways you can build up a Cleveland depending on how wild you want to get: street, street/strip, or all-out track. Each combo changes cam specs, compression, and gearing. If you want the full recipe list — everything down to lift numbers and header sizes — I have it all laid out on bonelessg.com. The link is in the description. At the factory, Cleveland was ahead of its time. The aftermarket finally caught up. Fifty years later, the parts catalog for this thing is wild. You can build a Cleveland from bare iron to high-power setups, except maybe the block itself. Today’s aluminum Cleveland heads are basically a cheat code: you get 4V-level top-end airflow with smaller, faster ports that don’t go to sleep at 2,000 rpm. Companies like Trick Flow, CHI, and Edelbrock have the formula nailed. They feature modern heart-shaped quench-style chambers that let you run real compression on pump gas without detonation. Pair that with a dual-plane intake that matches the port cross-section you actually have, and you suddenly have a Cleveland that acts civilized in traffic and wicked at wide-open throttle. The oiling fixes are old news now, dialed in and improved: lifter bore bushings in serious builds, gallery restrictors to keep pressure where it belongs, and high-volume pumps that actually match the clearances you set up. Run a real oil pan — seven or eight quarts — with proper baffling, and use a pickup that’s welded or safety-wired so it doesn’t vibrate off and ruin your weekend. Here’s a bit of free advice: don’t oversize the exhaust just because it’s a Cleveland. Small tubes make torque. 2V heads love 1-5/8 to 1-3/4 inch headers. High-rpm 4V combos can use 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 inch. On the street, bigger isn’t always faster; sometimes it’s just louder. Finally, something to note is that EFI conversions… The giant 4V ports that struggled with fuel distribution in the ’70s suddenly make sense when you can meter fuel per cylinder. Throttle-body EFI helps, but multiport is where the manners really sharpen up — cold starts and part-throttle response. It’s like the Cleveland finally learned some table manners. Shop-floor showdown: Cleveland or Windsor? It’s an argument that’s echoed through garages for 50 years. Full disclosure: I’m a Windsor man myself, but bias aside, here’s the honest truth. The Windsor wins on practicality. Parts are cheaper and easier to find, and there’s a stroker kit for every budget. It’s lighter in many trims, the oiling system is simpler, and if you want plug-and-play street torque with everything on the shelf at Summit or your local parts store, the Windsor is a layup. It just works. The Cleveland, though, is pure Ford magic. Even in stock trim, nothing else in the small-block Ford world moves air like it. Those heads flow like race parts right out of the gate. The valvetrain stays stable at high RPM and the top end just keeps pulling when a Windsor would have already gone home. If you love an engine that wakes up hard from the midrange and keeps pulling long after a Windsor is tapped out, the Cleveland speaks your language. And yes, you can put a Cleveland in one of our trucks. If your rig had a 351M or 400, it’s a bolt-in deal — same family, same mounts. In an F-150 or Bronco that came with a Windsor or an inline-six, it’s more of a project: you need a rear-sump pan, custom mounts, and probably a Saturday or two of bracket bingo. But once it’s in, you have one of the coolest Ford mashups out there. When should you pick which? If your goal is around 400 treatable horsepower with good manners and minimal drama, the Windsor is easy mode: bolt it together, tune it, and enjoy it. But if you want a street-strip setup that feels like a small block pretending to be a big block, or you want the coolest Ford conversation piece in the parking lot, the Cleveland is your answer — especially if you’re running Aussie-style quench heads or a modern aluminum casting that brings the ports back to street velocity. Honestly, if my current build weren’t my first serious attempt at a truly streetable high-horsepower combo, the Cleveland would be awfully tempting. Someday I’d love to build a Cleveland just to remind myself why some Ford engineers in Ohio thought this crazy thing was the future. When De Tomaso dropped a Cleveland in the mid-engine Pantera, suddenly this blue-collar Ford engine was sharing poster space with Ferraris. It gave the 351C race-bred heads, an exotic sound, and European sheet metal. That combo made the legend stick — the Pantera made the Cleveland feel exotic. Those canted valve heads also changed how people thought about airflow and combustion. They taught a whole generation to respect chambers, velocity, and mixture motion. Quench stopped being a buzzword and became a philosophy. That’s why people still hunt for those two V-port quench chamber combos for street builds, and why the words Boss 351 still make people straighten up at car shows. The Cleveland didn’t lose because it was bad — it lost to its own era, emissions, and corporate politics. Cleveland disappeared. But was it so good it got cancelled? Not exactly. Its timing clashed with emissions, fuel, insurance, and corporate priorities, even though the design itself was excellent. The heads were revolutionary and the block was clever. With the right parts it is still an absolute riot. But the early ’70s weren’t kind to any engine, let alone engines that needed compression, cam, and clean fuel. The Windsor survived in the industry because it was simple and scalable. The Cleveland lives in our hearts because it was special. And that’s everything I know or pretend to know about the Ford 351 Cleveland engine. Have one, want one, or think I should dump my Windsor for a Cleveland instead? Think I should forget getting some aftermarket Windsor heads and build up a Cleveland instead? Drop me a line. If you have any other questions, comments, concerns, or gripes, drop them below. If you want to dig deeper into the builds, the side projects, and the stuff that doesn’t always make it on YouTube, or just want to get to know me better, come hang out on patreon.com/bullnose Garage. It helps keep the lights on, and I appreciate you being part of the garage. Thanks again for watching — we’ll see you next time.

Ford built a small block with canted valves and intake ports big enough to lose a socket in, then killed it after a few short years. If that sentence makes you tilt your head, you’re exactly who this video is for.

In this 351 Cleveland masterclass, I walk through what made the Cleveland special, what doomed it in the U.S., and how to build one today that doesn’t suck. We hit 2V vs 4V, quench vs open chambers, the real oiling path, Aussie heads, modern parts, and whether you should pick a Cleveland or a Windsor for your project.

Why Ford Built It—and Why It Disappeared

Late ’60s Ford was drunk on airflow and racing. NASCAR and Trans Am taught a simple lesson: heads win races. The Windsor plant couldn’t keep up with demand, so the Cleveland, Ohio team was told to build their own small block with big-block thinking up top. Enter the 351 Cleveland in 1970.

In just a few years we got the 351C 2V (street torque), the 351C 4V (high-RPM hero), the one-year Boss 351 (’71, the full send), and later Cobra Jet variants as emissions rules dragged compression down. North American production wound down after 1974. Not because the Cleveland was bad, but because the early ’70s were. Emissions got brutal, compression dropped, insurance punished power, fuel quality slid, and Ford already had the Windsor on a massive, cost-effective production base.

Australia didn’t flinch. They invested, stockpiled roughly 60,000 U.S. blocks when Dearborn stopped, and then cast their own at the Gong Foundry, giving us the 302C and Aussie 351. Same architecture, smarter chambers for the street. The Cleveland wasn’t a dead end; it was a victim of timing and priorities here in the States.

The Heads That Made the Legend

2V vs 4V: Venturi, Not Valves

“V” stands for Venturi, not valve count. All Cleveland heads have two valves per cylinder. The difference is breathing. The 4V heads are wild: huge ports and big valves for high-RPM airflow. The 2V heads are smaller, designed for port velocity and street manners.

Shrouding vs Canted Valve Unshrouding

Traditional straight valve layouts get shrouded by the cylinder wall at low lift. The Cleveland’s canted valves tilt away from the wall and unshroud as they open. Result: more flow without needing a ridiculous cam. Ford learned it on the 429/460 big blocks, then shrunk the concept into a “small” block.

Quench vs Open Chamber

Closed-chamber (quench) designs use a tight pad—about 0.035–0.040 inch piston-to-head—to squish the mixture, boost turbulence, and speed the burn. That helps power and fights detonation. Open chambers are, well, open: easier emissions, lazier burn. In the U.S., all 2Vs were open-chamber. Early 4V heads got the good closed-chamber quench, which is why they’re coveted.

Australia kept the smaller 2V-style ports and paired them with closed chambers. That combo—velocity plus real quench—is why “Aussie heads” are the hot street setup today.

Port Size, Chambers, and How to Spot the Real Stuff

  • 4V port window: roughly 2.5 x 1.75 inches—“power brick” territory.
  • Valve sizes: 4V uses about 2.19-inch intake and 1.71-inch exhaust.
  • 2V port window: much smaller, more oval—dog-tag sized compared to 4V.
  • Chamber volumes: early closed-chamber 4V ~61–63 cc; later open-chamber 4V and all 2V ~74–77 cc.
  • Compression: early 4V combos around 10.7:1; later open-chamber builds often near 9:1 or high 8s depending on pistons/deck.

How to ID them: look at the intake face. If the port looks big enough to swallow a flashlight, it’s 4V. Smaller, oval-ish ports are 2V. Casting numbers live under an intake runner (intake off) and date codes are under the valve cover.

The Block, Geometry, and What It Weighs

The 351C bottom end is stout for its era: strong main webbing and smart dimensions that like RPM when the combo is matched.

Key Specs

  • Bore x stroke: 4.000 x 3.500 inches
  • Rod length: 5.780 inches; rod ratio ~1.65:1
  • Deck height: 9.206 inches
  • Main journal: 2.75 inches (smaller than 351M/400’s 3.000, so less bearing speed)
  • Weight: bare block ~190–210 lb; complete long block ~525–575 lb (accessories/intake dependent)
  • Firing order: same as 351W

Translation: a Cleveland will happily spin past 6,000 RPM with the right clearances and balance—and with oil control handled (more on that next).

Oiling Reality—and Real Fixes

The Gallery Path, Explained

The myth says “it feeds the top end first.” The truth: hydraulically, the right-side lifter gallery is the path of least resistance. Oil rushes there before it fully settles into the mains, especially at higher RPM. Once pressure builds, everyone gets served but at sustained RPM, those big lifter bores and generous passages can become a leak path. The mains are last in line and can suffer if you ignore the combo.

Fix What Matters

  • Lifter bore bushings: tighten leak paths on serious builds.
  • Oil gallery restrictors: slow the upstairs flow so the crank keeps pressure.
  • Right pump, matched to clearances: a high-volume pump helps when the system is prepped; it’s not a band-aid for worn geometry.
  • Real pan and pickup: 7–8 quarts, baffled. Secure the pickup (weld or safety-wire) so it doesn’t vibrate off and ruin your weekend.

Handled properly, a Cleveland will live north of 6,000 RPM all day without eating bearings.

Cooling Quirks You Can’t Ignore

Cleveland cooling needs the correct Cleveland-style thermostat (or a restrictor plate). The housing has a bypass passage that must be controlled. The proper thermostat has a sleeve/“hat” that closes the bypass once warm. Run a Windsor-style stat and the bypass stays open… hello odd warmups, hot spots, and a motor that always runs warmer than it should.

Valvetrain Notes

Most production 351Cs use a non-adjustable valvetrain: stamped rockers on pedestals with hydraulic lifters. Preload is handled by pushrod length, not lash nuts. Exceptions: Boss 351 and later 351 HO got screw-in studs, guide plates, and solid lifters. Fully adjustable and happy at real RPM.

Building a Cleveland That Doesn’t Suck

Induction and Cam Strategy

The name of the game is airflow… matched, not mismatched. A 4V with tiny cam and a lazy dual-plane feels like a tractor that lost its wallet until ~3,000 RPM. Give it duration, real lift, and an intake that actually feeds those giant ports, then back it with gear/converter. The freight train shows up.

On a 2V, lean into velocity. Shorter cam, dual-plane intake, and enjoy street torque and crisp throttle. Smaller ports (roughly 190–210 cc) build velocity early and keep mixture motion through the midrange.

Carb vs EFI

  • Carb sizing: 650–750 CFM works for most street 351Cs; a hotter 4V build with real RPM likes 750–850 CFM.
  • EFI: the big 4V ports get friendlier at low speed with modern fuel control. Throttle-body helps; multiport makes it behave—cold starts, part throttle, cylinder-to-cylinder fuel.

Headers That Help (Not Hurt)

  • 2V street: 1-5/8 to 1-3/4 inch primaries.
  • High-RPM 4V: 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 inch.

Don’t oversize just because “Cleveland.” Smaller tubes build torque; bigger is often just louder.

Variants, Codes, and Aussie Gold

  • H-code: 2V street engines.
  • M-code: hot, closed-chamber 4V.
  • R-code: Boss 351, solid lifter, adjustable valvetrain.
  • Q-code: later Cobra Jet with open chambers (emissions-era tame).

Australia blended the best traits: 2V-sized ports for velocity with closed quench chambers for detonation resistance. That’s why Aussie heads are coveted for street builds. And yes, the same Cleveland architecture powered everything from Boss Mustangs and Torinos to the De Tomaso Pantera—where the 4V really showed off. Over in Australia, Falcons turned the platform into Bathurst legend.

Name trap while we’re here: 351M and 400 are part of the 335 family but aren’t “true” Clevelands. Taller deck, bigger mains, different bellhousing pattern. Some parts interchange—just don’t call a 351M a Cleveland unless you like comment wars.

Cleveland vs Windsor—Like Grown-Ups

Full disclosure: I’m a Windsor man myself. Bias aside, here’s the honest take.

  • Windsor: wins on practicality. Lighter in many trims, simpler oiling, cheaper parts, a stroker kit for every budget, and shelves of bolt-on street torque.
  • Cleveland: pure Ford magic. Nothing else in the small-block Ford world moves air like a Cleveland’s heads. Stable valvetrain, top end that keeps pulling when a Windsor is clocking out. With the right combo (and especially modern heads), it’s a small block that pretends to be a big block.

Swapping a Cleveland into a Bullnose

If your truck had a 351M or 400, this is about as bolt-in as it gets—same 335 family, same mounts. For F-150s or Broncos that came with a Windsor or inline-six, plan on a rear-sump pan, custom mounts, and a Saturday or two of bracket bingo. Once it’s in, you’ve got one of the cooler Ford mashups out there.

Aftermarket Heads and Modern Fixes

The aftermarket finally caught up with the Cleveland. Today’s aluminum heads (Trick Flow, CHI, Edelbrock) are basically a cheat code: 4V-level airflow with smaller, faster ports that don’t go to sleep at 2,000 RPM. They use modern, heart-shaped quench chambers so you can run real compression on pump gas without detonation. Match the intake to the actual port, not the one in your imagination, and you get street manners plus top-end pull.

Oil system fixes are well known by now: lifter bore bushings on serious builds, sensible restrictors, and a high-volume pump when clearances justify it. Run a baffled 7–8 qt pan and secure that pickup. Do the Cleveland thermostat correctly and you won’t be chasing phantom heat.

What to Inspect Before You Spend

  • Block: sonic check old castings for core shift before you buy pistons.
  • Heads: guides and seats—decades of wear and “mystery machine work” show up here.
  • Detonation risk: open-chamber 4V heads can rattle on modern pump gas if you chase timing/compression too hard. Tighter modern chambers fix a lot of that.

So, Which One Should You Build?

If you want ~400 honest, streetable horsepower with minimal drama, the Windsor is easy mode. If you want a street/strip setup that hits like a freight train from the midrange up—and you want the best Ford parking-lot conversation starter—the Cleveland is your engine, especially with Aussie-style quench heads or modern aluminum castings that bring port velocity back.

Someday I’d love to build a Cleveland just to remind myself why Ford’s Ohio team thought this was the future. The era killed it—not the engineering.

Wrap-Up

The 351 Cleveland was short-lived in America but far from a footnote. Revolutionary heads, a clever block, and with the right parts it’s still an absolute riot. If you want the full combo recipes—cams, header sizing, and more—I’ve laid them out on bullnosegarage.com. Check out the video above for the full walkthrough.

Got a Cleveland story, an Aussie head score, or a Windsor vs Cleveland hot take? Drop it in the comments. I read them all, even the ones that tell me I’m wrong.


Bullnose Garage at YouTube

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Why does my 1980-1986 Ford Bronco battery die so quickly?


Bullnose Bill pointing at a Bronco battery and wiring while explaining common drain causes

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Alright, let’s dive into this. If your Bronco’s battery is draining quickly, there are several potential culprits. Here’s a rundown to help you troubleshoot:

Common Causes

  1. Parasitic Draw:

    • What it is: Electrical components drawing power even when the vehicle is off.
    • Check: Use a multimeter to measure the current draw. Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect the multimeter in series. A draw over 50 milliamps can be problematic.
  2. Faulty Alternator:

    • What it is: The alternator may not be charging the battery properly.
    • Check: With the engine running, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. It should read about 13.7 to 14.7 volts. If not, your alternator could be the issue.
  3. Bad Battery:

    • What it is: The battery itself might be failing.
    • Check: Test the battery voltage (should be around 12.6 volts off) and consider a load test at a local parts store.
  4. Corroded Connections:

    • What it is: Corrosion can increase resistance and prevent proper charging.
    • Check: Inspect and clean battery terminals and cable connections.
  5. Wiring Issues:

    • What it is: Damaged wires or poor grounds can cause power issues.
    • Check: Look for any damaged insulation, loose connectors, or corrosion on grounding points.

Pro Tips

  • Inspect Your Fuses: Sometimes a blown or improperly seated fuse can cause strange electrical issues.
  • Check Aftermarket Accessories: If you’ve got extras like an alarm, stereo, or lights, ensure they’re wired correctly and not drawing power continuously.

Next Steps

  • Battery Health: If the battery is old (over 3-5 years), consider replacing it.
  • Professional Help: If you’re still stumped, it might be time to consult a professional or check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit for more advice.

If you’ve got more details to share, feel free to fill me in, and we can narrow things down further!


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Where can I find lowering springs for a 1986 Ford F-150?


Bullnose Bill pointing at a 1986 F-150 suspension while explaining lowering spring options and fitment

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Lowering your 1986 F-150 can give it a sleek look and improve handling. Here’s how to get started with finding lowering springs:

Where to Look

  1. Aftermarket Suppliers

    • Companies like Belltech and DJM Suspension specialize in lowering kits for older trucks, including Bullnose Fords.
    • LMC Truck often carries a variety of suspension components for classic Ford trucks.
  2. Online Retailers

    • Websites like Summit Racing and Jegs offer a range of lowering springs and kits. Make sure to filter by your truck’s year and model.
  3. Bullnose Communities

    • The Bullnose Ford subreddit and other online forums can be great places to get recommendations and feedback on specific products.

Considerations

  • Drop Amount: Decide how much you want to lower your truck. Typical options are 2-inch or 3-inch drops. Remember, the lower you go, the more you might need to adjust other components, like shocks and alignment.

  • Quality and Brand Reputation: Stick with reputable brands to ensure you get springs that are durable and well-engineered.

  • Complete Kits: Consider purchasing a complete lowering kit that includes springs, shocks, and any necessary hardware for a balanced and properly functioning suspension.

Pro Tips

  • Alignment: After lowering, get a professional alignment to prevent uneven tire wear and handling issues.

  • Shocks: You may need shorter shocks to maintain proper suspension travel and comfort.

Lowering a Bullnose is a rewarding project that can dramatically change your truck’s stance and ride. Make sure to review installation guides or videos, possibly on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel, if you’re tackling this yourself. If not, a trusted local shop can help with the install.


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

November Newsletter

Bullnose Garage Newsletter

Bullnose Garage

Bullnose Garage Monthly: Nov 2025

Shop talk and grease-smudged updates from the garage.

Howdy Folks, Ed Here!

Welcome to the first Bullnose Garage newsletter! I figured if I’m going to spend half my life buried in engines, editing timelines, and making questionable garage projects come to life, I might as well keep you all in the loop. November was one of those months where everything seemed to happen at once: wrapping up the Cleveland video, prepping the garage for the Windsor teardown, finishing up my welding table, packing in (and out) a huge garage sale, trying not to break YouTube’s social tab, and realizing I juggle more projects than a guy with two hands and zero coordination has any right to. I bounced between script writing, scene planning, channel tweaks, and software tutorials like a man trying to catch up on stuff he ignored all summer.  Because I did. But hey, if nothing else, this newsletter gives me a chance to put all the moving parts in one place and gives you a front-row seat to the madness I keep calling a hobby.

Featured Article / Video


Building a Bullnose: The Story of My 1985 F-150

So I went looking for a simple Bullnose project, and naturally it turned into a months‑long scavenger hunt capped off by me buying a stick‑shift truck I couldn’t even drive yet. What followed was a roller‑coaster mix of repairs, upgrades, surprises, and one forklift-induced therapy session. If you want the whole saga of how a “quick project” became Bullnose Garage, buckle up. Click in and see where the trouble actually started.

Read More

New on BullnoseGarage.com

New Posts

What I’ve Been Working On

This month’s been a busy one. While finishing the 351 Cleveland video, I learned I apparently have the power to resurrect long-dead factories with AI because the Cleveland plant footage I cooked up looks so real it ought to come with a union rep. On the real-world side of the camera, most of my time has been spent getting the garage and the 351 Windsor area ready for the teardown series. I’ve been rehearsing my intro, blocking out scenes, figuring out where the camera needs to live, and generally making sure this whole thing feels intentional. It’s not just “guy with a camera in a garage” anymore, I’m trying to build a proper flow so the teardown plays like a real show instead of a security cam from Harbor Freight. I’ve also been working my way through YouTube’s social tab, trying to use it more without accidentally blasting everyone with random thoughts at 2 AM. Between that, the long-form videos, the voiceovers, and the editing experiments, I’ve kept myself pretty busy. This is the first Bullnose Garage newsletter, and we’ll see if this thing grows wings over time. It’s something I’ve wanted to do for a while… give everyone a clear monthly snapshot of what’s happening, what’s coming up, and what chaos I’ve created in the garage. Oh, and I may or may not have spent several late nights learning way too much about fiber lasers. Apparently the only thing that burns faster than a brass challenge coin is money.

Bullnose Bill's Corner

Featured Answer


1986 F-250 460: Runs, Then Dies and Blows Fuse

The poor ’86 F‑250 starts, pops a fuse, and clocks out like it’s unionized, which usually means there’s a juicy short hiding in the solenoid/ignition wiring or a ground that’s gotten lazy. Bill walks through the whole hunt—chafed wires, crusty grounds, fuse box gremlins, and the usual “did a hot wire melt itself on the manifold again?” routine. Bullnose Bill’s featured answer zeroes in on the real culprit: a short in the solenoid or ignition circuit that kills the truck and nukes the fuse. If you want the full wire‑by‑wire roadmap, go read Bill’s breakdown before your truck files for workers’ comp. 

Bill’s Answers This Month

Ask Bill a Question →

Bullnose Garage Merch

Burnout Truck Built Tough Unisex Tri-Blend T-Shirt

Burnout Truck Built Tough Unisex Tri-Blend T-Shirt

28.49

Greatest Truck Ever Unisex Stars & Stripes T-Shirt

Greatest Truck Ever Unisex Stars & Stripes T-Shirt

28.49

Bullnose Garage Coin Logo Pigment Dyed Trucker Hat

Bullnose Garage Coin Logo Pigment Dyed Trucker Hat

18.99

Product of the Month

How to Shoot Video That Doesn't Suck

Shop Now

How to Shoot Video That Doesn't Suck

How to Shoot Video That Doesn’t Suck is basically the shop manual your camera wishes you’d read. No fluff, no film-school snobbery… just straight-up, practical advice that keeps your footage from looking like you duct-taped a GoPro to a squirrel. It teaches you how to think like a storyteller instead of a guy waving a lens around hoping for the best. If you want your videos to feel intentional, punchy, and actually watchable this book shows you how to get there without needing Hollywood money or Hollywood patience. Even if all you’re doing is shooting vacation shots or your kids’ soccer games, it will make showing videos to your relatives way less painful… for them.

Deep in the Garage (Patreon)

Featured Post


I Thought I Dented My Rim… Turns Out I Didn’t

Here’s the highlight: Turns out that “dent” in my Bassett rim wasn’t me being a klutz—it was the factory leaving me a little love note in the form of a heat‑shrink valley. I walk through the whole detective job and how I’m cleaning it up without firing up the welder, and yes, the dramatic size difference between “what I remembered” and “reality” gets exposed too. All the behind-the-scenes details are tucked behind the Patreon gate if you want the full tour.

Patreon Posts This Month


  • A little something for my wife


    This last spring I spent weeks… WEEKS… building a new chicken coop for our flock. We've got 7 chickens and had two turkeys. I guess we still have the turkeys but they're not in the…

  • When Gear Shifts Go Bad


    I was trying to get Sora AI to create a nice simple gear shifting B-Roll I could use for my M5OD video and it turned into a bit of an exercise in futility. For every…

  • This Week in the Garage – November 7, 2025


    The garage isn’t much of a garage this week… it’s a garage sale. Which means there’s no shooting, grinding, or truck work happening… just folding tables, baby clothes, and the occasional argument about what’s “too…

  • Garage Clean, Hands Dirty


    Well, it finally happened… the garage is clean. I’m not talking about the “sweep it out and call it good” kind of clean either. I mean there’s actually floor space again. After the garage sale…

  • Behind the Counter: The Whiteboard Wall


    I finally got tired of squinting at a tiny whiteboard across the shop and pretending it was “enough space” for an engine diagram. So, I went a little overboard… literally. I mounted a full 8-foot-wide…

If you want to see more and get the full versions of these posts, check out my Patreon! https://patreon.com/c/bullnosegarage.

Build Progress

351 Windsor Build

The Windsor videos are slowly climbing back into the spotlight thanks to the channel’s recent momentum. I’ve been planning out the next steps… getting the engine on the stand, prepping it for the machine shop, and mapping out the full series from teardown to quarter-mile run. I’m also still juggling which shop is going to do the machining, what I’m filming there, and how far I can push this build before my wallet taps out and begs for mercy.

1985 F-150

Not much hands-on wrenching this month, but the truck is still front-and-center as the “main character” in the upcoming engine swap storyline. Most of the work has been behind the scenes: writing, planning, organizing, and making sure the entire series from teardown to road test actually makes sense on camera. The NP435 swap decision is still floating somewhere between “rational” and “maybe I just like making my life complicated.”

1982 Bronco

The Bronco hasn’t gotten much love this month, mostly because the 351 (both Windsor and Cleveland) stuff has been eating my life. The tires are just old enough that I don’t trust them for anything serious but I’ve moved it around a bit and at least put the air cleaner back on so it’s not sitting in the garage looking like a parts bin exploded all over my floor. The real progress is in the planning phase. I’m still locked in on the desert crawler direction: TTB stays, 35s down the road, probably a 4-inch lift with a 1-inch body lift so it sits right without going full monster truck. I drilled and tapped the Basset wheels to accept the old Ford center caps (See the video!) and yes… I’ll be running non DOT wheels on it. Sue me. (Please don’t.) And the boosted inline-six dream is still alive and kicking in my notebook.

The Channel

The channel’s been growing steadily, and the engine videos are still carrying the flag.  They’re way more popular than my in-garage content but I try to mix it up so us Bullnose guys have some real world content to chew on too. The Cleveland video is shaping up nicely thanks to all the extra VO, B-roll, and a little AI wizardry. I’ve also been working on learning After Effects by building out more animated promos.  Hopefully you guys don’t find them too annoying.
 
Behind the curtain, I’ve also been refining my content workflow hard this month: better scenes, better beats, better transitions, and letting myself do mid-edit fixes instead of treating them like failure. Turns out the “Editor Ed” interruptions might be one of my new favorite parts of the video.  They give a good break and let me review my work before final polish.  I actually end up catching quite a bit while I’m editing.
 
I also finished the audiobook “How to Shoot Video That Doesn’t Suck” by Steve Stockman. It’s short, entertaining, and surprisingly useful. I don’t agree with everything he says, especially when it comes to the kind of YouTube videos I make, but I still pulled a ton of good ideas from it. So yeah… y’all better appreciate the work I’m putting in to make this stuff entertaining. 🙂

Thanks Again for Reading

Thanks for hanging out with me in the garage today. I appreciate you more than you know. Every view, every comment, every shared story about your own truck keeps this whole thing fun. See you next time!

If you want to dig deeper into the builds, check out the latest videos, or support the channel, here are a few places to find me:

🔧 YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@bullnosegarage
🔥 Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bullnosegarage
🛠️ Website: https://bullnosegarage.com

Thanks again for being part of the Bullnose crew.

Bullnose Garage Newsletter
© 2025 Bullnose Garage and Duskrider Design LLC

If you’re done with the garage chaos, no hard feelings: unsubscribe here.

Can replacing the starter module fix misfires and a rough idle on a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat?


Bullnose Bill beside a red-white 1986 F250, pointing at the engine while explaining starter module, misfires, and rough idle.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

A misfire and rough idle are usually not directly related to the starter module. The starter module’s main job is to help start the engine. Once the engine is running, the module isn’t involved.

Possible Causes for Misfires and Rough Idle:

  1. Ignition System:

    • Spark Plugs and Wires: Worn plugs or damaged wires can cause misfires.
    • Distributor Cap and Rotor: Check for wear or carbon tracking.
    • Ignition Coil: A failing coil might not provide enough spark.
  2. Fuel System:

    • Fuel Filter: A clogged filter can reduce fuel flow.
    • Fuel Pump: If it’s weak, you might have fuel delivery issues.
    • Injectors: Dirty or clogged injectors can cause problems.
  3. Air Intake System:

    • Vacuum Leaks: Check hoses and gaskets for leaks.
    • Air Filter: A dirty filter can restrict airflow.
  4. Sensors:

    • O2 Sensors: Faulty sensors can affect fuel mixture.
    • MAP/MAF Sensors: If they’re sending incorrect signals, it can cause a rough idle.

Steps to Diagnose:

  • Check for Trouble Codes: If you have an OBD-I scanner, see if any codes are stored.
  • Inspect Ignition Components: Look for obvious signs of wear or damage.
  • Test Fuel Pressure: Ensure your fuel pump and filter are working properly.
  • Inspect for Vacuum Leaks: Listen for hissing sounds or use carb cleaner around gaskets and hoses.

If you’re unsure or need a deeper dive, there might be a video on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that covers some of these diagnostics. You can also check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit for shared experiences from other enthusiasts.

Feel free to ask if you have more details or need further guidance!


User avatar

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User:

Can a stock 1986 F250 XLT Lariat fit 33-inch tires without modifications?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Fitting 33-inch tires on a stock 1986 F250 XLT Lariat is possible, but you might run into a few challenges.

Considerations:

  1. Clearance:

    • You may experience some rubbing, especially during full turns or when the suspension is compressed.
  2. Suspension:

    • A slight lift (like a leveling kit) might be needed to provide enough clearance for those larger tires.
  3. Gearing:

    • Larger tires can affect your gearing and overall performance. You might notice a drop in acceleration or increased strain on the drivetrain.
  4. Speedometer:

    • Your speedometer may read incorrectly due to the larger tire diameter.

Recommendations:

  • Test Fit: If possible, test fit the tires to see if they clear.
  • Consider a Lift: A small suspension lift can make all the difference.
  • Adjust Gearing: If performance is affected, consider re-gearing the differential.

If you need a more detailed guide, the Bullnose Garage channel might have content on suspension setup and tire fitting. Let me know if you need more help!

User avatar

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User:

What lift or leveling height is needed to fit 12-inch-wide tires on a 1986 F250?

Bill avatar

Bill:

To fit 33×12.5-inch tires on your 1986 F250, a small lift or leveling kit should suffice, but you’ll need to consider a few things:

Lift Recommendations:

  1. Leveling Kit (1.5 to 2 inches):

    • This may provide enough clearance for the wider tires, especially if you’re mainly concerned about rubbing at the front.
  2. Suspension Lift (2 to 4 inches):

    • A lift in this range ensures better clearance and reduces the chance of rubbing when turning or articulating.

Additional Considerations:

  • Wheel Backspacing:

    • Ensure your wheels have the correct backspacing to avoid inner fender contact.
  • Fender Trimming:

    • Minor trimming of the fender or inner fender liner might be necessary, depending on your specific setup.
  • Alignment:

    • After lifting, get a proper alignment to ensure good handling and tire wear.

It’s always a good idea to see if there’s relevant info on the Bullnose Garage channel or check with fellow enthusiasts on the Bullnose Ford subreddit. Let me know if you need more guidance!

User avatar

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User:

What is the typical cost for a leveling kit for a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat?

Bill avatar

Bill:

A leveling kit for your 1986 F250 typically costs between $50 and $200, depending on the brand and components included. Here’s what to consider:

Cost Breakdown:

  1. Basic Kits:

    • Simple spacers usually range from $50 to $100.
  2. Premium Kits:

    • Kits with additional components like new shocks or extended coils can cost between $150 to $200.

Installation:

  • DIY Installation:

    • If you’re handy with tools, you can save on labor costs by installing it yourself.
  • Professional Installation:

    • Expect to pay an additional $100 to $300 for a shop to do the install, depending on local rates.

Recommendations:

  • Research Brands: Read reviews and consider reputable brands for quality.
  • Consider a Package: Some kits come with alignment options or additional hardware.

If you’re diving into this project, it might be worth checking the Bullnose Garage channel for installation tips or tutorials.

User avatar

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User:

What are the best performance and reliability upgrades for a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat SuperCab?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Upgrading your 1986 F250 XLT Lariat SuperCab can enhance its performance, comfort, and style. Here are some top upgrades to consider:

Performance Upgrades:

  1. Exhaust System:

    • A high-flow exhaust can improve horsepower and give your truck a deeper tone.
  2. Air Intake:

    • A cold air intake increases airflow to the engine, boosting performance.
  3. Ignition System:

    • Upgrading to high-performance spark plugs and wires can improve efficiency and firing consistency.
  4. Suspension:

    • Consider upgrading to heavy-duty shocks or a small lift for better ride quality and off-road capability.

Comfort and Convenience:

  1. Interior Refresh:

    • New seat covers, dash pads, or carpet kits can rejuvenate the cabin.
  2. Sound System:

    • A modern stereo with Bluetooth and upgraded speakers enhances your driving experience.
  3. AC System:

    • If your AC is lacking, consider a retrofit or upgrade kit for better cooling.

Exterior Enhancements:

  1. Lighting:

    • LED headlights and auxiliary lights improve visibility and appearance.
  2. Wheels and Tires:

    • A fresh set of wheels and tires can transform the truck’s look and performance.
  3. Body Protection:

    • Add features like grille guards or bed liners for durability and utility.

Practical Tips:

  • Budget Wisely: Prioritize upgrades based on your needs and budget.
  • Research: Look for quality parts from reputable sources.

For more detailed guides, check out Bullnose Garage videos or the Bullnose Ford subreddit for advice from other enthusiasts. Let me know if you need more specific info on any of these upgrades!

User avatar

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User:

Which Detroit Diesel engine swaps are compatible with a 1986 F250 chassis?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Swapping a Detroit Diesel into your 1986 F250 is a hefty project, but a popular choice is the Detroit Diesel 4-53. Here’s what you need to know:

Compatibility and Considerations:

  1. Engine Size and Weight:

    • The 4-53 is a relatively compact option for a diesel swap, but it’s still heavier than a gas engine. Make sure your suspension can handle the added weight.
  2. Transmission:

    • You’ll likely need a different transmission or an adapter for your existing one. The manual transmissions (like the T-19) might pair better with a diesel.
  3. Motor Mounts and Fabrication:

    • Custom motor mounts and fabrication work will be necessary to fit the engine in the bay.
  4. Cooling System:

    • Upgrade the radiator and cooling system to handle the diesel engine’s heat output.
  5. Electrical and Fuel Systems:

    • Diesel engines require different electrical and fuel system setups. Plan for wiring changes and a diesel fuel tank.

Challenges:

  • Space Constraints: Ensure you have enough room in the engine bay.
  • Regulatory Compliance: Check local emissions and swap regulations.

Recommendations:

  • Research Thoroughly: Look at forums and communities for guidance from those who’ve done similar swaps.
  • Professional Help: Consider consulting a professional for parts of the swap if you’re not experienced with diesel engines.

If you’re looking for more info or inspiration, the Bullnose Garage channel or Bullnose Ford subreddit might have related content. Let me know if you have other questions!

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User:

What is the value of a 1986 F250 XLT Lariat extended-cab long bed with 44K miles, 460 V8, automatic, minimal surface rust, and working options?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Valuing a classic like your 1986 F250 XLT Lariat involves several factors. Here’s a breakdown:

Factors Affecting Value:

  1. Condition:

    • Minimal rust and low mileage (44k) are huge positives.
  2. Original Features:

    • Factory bucket seats, functional AC, and power options add to its value.
  3. Engine and Transmission:

    • A functioning 460 motor and automatic transmission are desirable.
  4. Market Demand:

    • Interest in Bullnose Fords has been rising, which can increase value.

Estimated Value:

  • General Range:

    • You might see values from $10,000 to $20,000, depending on the buyer and market.
  • Regional Variations:

    • Prices can vary based on location and demand in your area.

Tips for Maximizing Value:

  1. Documentation:

    • Keep any service records and original paperwork.
  2. Cosmetics:

    • Address any minor cosmetic issues, like surface rust, to enhance appeal.
  3. Market Research:

    • Check online listings and auctions for similar vehicles to gauge current trends.

Remember, actual sales can vary, so it’s wise to consult with a classic car appraiser for a more precise valuation. If you want to connect with other enthusiasts, the Bullnose Ford subreddit could be a helpful community.

User avatar

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User:

How do complete service records and an Illinois (Midwest) location affect the resale value of my 1986 F250?

Bill avatar

Bill:

With complete service records and being in Illinois, your 1986 F250 XLT Lariat is in a good spot for value. Here’s a refined estimate:

Midwest Market Value:

  • Estimated Range: $12,000 to $22,000.
    • Top End: Exceptional condition and documentation can push you toward the higher end.

Selling Tips:

  1. Highlight Documentation:

    • Emphasize complete service history in listings.
  2. Local Demand:

    • Check local classifieds and online marketplaces to see what similar trucks are listed for.
  3. Showcase Condition:

    • High-quality photos and detailed descriptions can attract more serious buyers.

Remember, prices fluctuate, so it’s wise to see what’s happening in the market. Good luck! If you need more advice, feel free to ask.

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User:

What are good names for a red-and-white 1986 ‘Bullnose’ F250?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Naming your Bullnose is a fun way to personalize it. Here are a few suggestions:

  1. Big Red
  2. Rusty
  3. Crimson Cruiser
  4. Bullseye
  5. Scarlet Steed
  6. Cherry Bomb
  7. Old Glory
  8. Red Rover

Choose a name that resonates with your truck’s personality and your style. Enjoy the ride!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Resistor wire and ignition coil compatibility for 1980-1986 Ford F-Series trucks


Bullnose Bill points to a 1980s Ford F-Series ignition coil and resistor wire, explaining fitment and failure signs.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Alright, let’s dive into the ignition coil resistor wire for your Bullnose Ford. This wire is a key component in the ignition system, reducing the voltage from the battery to prevent coil overheating.

Purpose of the Resistor Wire

  • Voltage Reduction: The resistor wire drops the voltage from 12 volts to about 9 volts during normal operation. This prolongs the life of your ignition coil and points.
  • Starting: During engine start, full battery voltage bypasses the resistor to provide a hotter spark.

Common Issues

  1. Starting Problems: If the truck cranks but doesn’t start, a faulty resistor wire might not be delivering the right voltage.
  2. Overheating Coil: If the coil gets too hot, the resistor wire might be bypassed or shorted.
  3. Voltage Testing: Use a multimeter to check voltage at the coil with the engine running. You should see around 9 volts.

Replacement Tips

  • OEM Spec: Stick with OEM-spec resistor wire to ensure proper voltage drop.
  • Routing: Ensure the wire is routed away from heat sources to prevent damage.
  • Connections: Check all connections for corrosion or looseness, which can cause voltage drop issues.

Pro Tips

  • Bypass During Testing: Temporarily bypass the resistor wire for testing purposes, but don’t run it this way for long — it’ll wear out the coil.
  • Check Grounds: Make sure all grounds are clean and secure, as poor grounding can mimic resistor wire issues.

If you’re unsure about any step, checking out related videos on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel might be helpful. If you’ve got more questions, feel free to ask!


User avatar

User:

Where to find replacement resistor wire and ignition coil for 1980-1986 Ford F-Series

Bill avatar

Bill:

Finding a replacement resistor wire for your Bullnose Ford can be straightforward if you know where to look. Here are some options:

Where to Find Replacement Resistor Wire

  1. Auto Parts Stores: Check out local stores like AutoZone, NAPA, or O’Reilly. They often have listings for classic Ford ignition parts.

  2. Online Retailers: Websites like RockAuto or Summit Racing offer a wide range of parts for older vehicles. Just ensure the part matches your truck’s year and model.

  3. Specialty Suppliers: Consider suppliers that specialize in classic Ford parts. They might offer more accurate OEM-style replacements.

  4. Salvage Yards: Sometimes, you can find usable parts in salvage yards. It’s a bit of a treasure hunt, but you might get lucky.

Installation Tips

  • Compare Before Installing: Make sure the new wire matches the length and resistance of the original.
  • Secure Properly: Use clips or ties to keep the wire away from high heat or moving parts.

If you’re still searching, there may be more specific advice or suggestions on the Bullnose Ford subreddit, which can be a great resource. Let me know if there’s anything else you need!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.