hi folks Ed here welcome back to Bullnose Garage and today I have a question for you what do this wiper motor this washer pump and this wiper washer switch all have in common they’re garbage and it runs for just a second and it turns off and it’s really inconsistent making those clicking noises that’s actually a way for you to know that there’s something going on with your motor if that module clicks like that all right so clearly that stuff is garbage today I’m going to replace all three of those things on my bullnose truck right here and I’m going to show you how to do it on yours the easiest is probably the washer fluid pump which is just a basically you pull out the old one and pop in the new one then we’ve got the wiper motor and that wiper motor is a little bit tricky cuz if you buy one from Amazon it uh seems like a direct replacement but it’s not quite you got to do some modification to it to make work and I’ll show you exactly how I did that to mine so you can do it to yours and finally a great upgrade is one that I did on the interior for the uh wiper and washer switch and I changed it from the old high low style to an intermittent style which is a really great modern upgrade for these old trucks so stick around and I’ll show you how to do all of that today hello let’s take a look and see all the bits and pieces that make this system work so first of all we’ve got your uh wiper motor right there that uh links to the wiper arms there and there and there’s only one motor for both uh there’s a linkage back there that controls them uh there we’ve got our sprayer nozzle on the 85 F150 there’s only one and then the line obviously comes down and goes to the reservoir which I’ve already got emptied you can see here down there that is the uh fluid pump and it just uh hooks up right there and pretty easy to replace so what I’m going to do is I’m actually going to take the entire Reservoir out get it good and clean uh it’s pretty gross in there and then uh go through and start doing the replacement I think the hardest part of this is going to be hooking up the motor and uh getting the cowl off so there’s several Phillips screws that you can see there that you got to take off to get this cowl off so first things first we got to get this cowl off and it’s not too difficult but there are a few steps you’ve got to know uh before you can just go ahead and pop it off of here so the first one I’m going to do is take off these wiper arms to do that get a screwdriver underneath this little bit there pull that up pop that out set that back down like that and now you can just wiggle it off of here get my screwdriver out of my hand so I can use both hands here there we go and this side will obviously be a little bit more difficult just cuz it’s uh you got to reach further but it’s the same idea pop that out set that down wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle oh it’s so hot wiggle something loose that ain’t been wiggle loose in 20 years wiggle wiggle wiggle there it goes almost took you guys out okay now we’ve also got these screws here to remove and we have to take off the anten mount anten mount’s pretty simple try to get under here and pop it off you can see this is already a little bit loose I’ve already taken the screws loose from underneath there we go oh that puppy’s already loose and then you just uh unplug it me let loose here there he goes there are several Phillips screws under here for the cowl and you just have to kind of go and take them out some somebody put a different screw in that one got a little following behind somebody else’s work all right here we go handy dandy correct tool for the job there’s some damage going on there so I’ll to be honest here and say I don’t know how this came from the factory but this truck is been around the block a few times so whoever had it before me has done some stuff to it and there’s some zip ties and some other stuff in here so I’m going to have to cut that off so that I can start working on uh getting the cowl off and uh replacing these lines take care of your truck you have to pull it from underneath the uh the trim here I’m a onean show so I got to do it myself I said this before guys I will say it again I am playing the learn as we go game I have watched videos on this and done a lot of research but I’ve never actually taken the cow off myself it takes some real wiggling and if you don’t want to scratch the paint on your cowl guys you have to be more careful than me I don’t know that I care that much about my paint cuz I’m going to repaint all this anyway but that’s going to be a real pain to get back on there without scratching the paint when I do it later you may take your hood off if you want to do it without scratching the paint for sure okay guys this is the ever popular 10 mm and this should be the only thing holding this Reservoir on and there we go we want to take this locking ring out and then just pulls right out of there okay guys so when I pulled mine out of here the uh the pump came out but the impeller and Gasket is still stuck in there so I got to figure out how to get that out of there uh but you know I got a pick set that I think I can get in there and uh yoink that out with all right guys here we are like a one week later I think I discovered that my wiper switch uh right there is actually faulty I think that’s what’s causing both the wiper motor and the uh the washer uh pump to not work correctly so I went out and got a replacement actually I got an upgrade so this is an intermittent wiper module uh my truck doesn’t have one from the factory so I’m going to go ahead and uh while I’m doing this add intermittent wipers so uh this whole setup is about 80 bucks from eBay uh that’s about the only place you can find them they got to pull them from another truck somewhere so uh but this one looks like it’s in pretty good shape and uh yeah let’s see how it works so to get to uh where this switch is so I can replace it you got to take both of these knobs off off uh my wiper switch knob has been broken for a long time so it just pops right off uh my light headlight switch though is actually still uh got good retention here so you have to find this little Notch uh that’s right there slide a tool back in there behind there like a hook and compress a ring back in here that’ll pop this off once those are off uh then you can come underneath here and I’m not sure if you can see or not there are uh a few Phillips head screwdriver or screws screwdriver a few Phillips head screws right there uh that’ll help you get this Dash panel off um and in my case I’ll probably have to move my tack cuz it’s after market uh sometimes you’ve got to remove this uh steering wheel uh shaft shroud right here but we’re going to see if we can do it without without that mine’s a little bit more complicated cuz I got some extra stuff there we go or to really get it out of the way in a future episode I will be doing this here part again because I have a new um gauge cluster that came out of a different truck and it’s got a tack built in and I really really want the factory tack so that’s why I grabbed that I’ve had it for a couple of years and haven’t put it in yet that’s the story of my life all right and now you just kind of rotate that out of the way all you got to do is get to this all right guys now I’m not sure how well you can see what I’m doing here but I’ve got a bunch of aftermarket goop and stuff up under here that has been added by somebody else so it’s probably going to be a little bit harder for me to get to this and do this than it would be for you guys but here is the old switch it’s just got a plug here so we take that plug out and we get our new one now the new one obviously has a lot more stuff and there’s some considerations you got to have here now the new one should just plug right into the same socket as the old one should it’s pretty rough but they are I mean they are going in there there’s no doubt they’re going in it may just be oh yeah that’s what it is I don’t know if you guys can see that or not but the the uh length isn’t the same on the housing so it’s not going to go in all the way that right there is as far as it’ll go so there we go all right I’ve also got to find a place to stick this ground so there should be plenty of places under here uh I just got to find a good one oh man my hood releas is bust maybe I should fix that while I’m down here it’s always something yeah that’s going to work this guys this is why you never throw any screws or nuts away and if you happen to go to a garage stale or an estate stale where they got buckets of this stuff you may want to pick it up all right now that solves two birds two birds that solves two problems now I got to find a place to tuck this thing yeah all right guys um so I I’m continuing to troubleshoot this um let me turn it on for you okay now if I touch this I’m not sure you can hear it but that works but now you hear that noise let going from this box so either I got a bad box from eBay or what I think is more likely is that my wiper motor is actually not not working correctly um so I I bought a new motor and anticipation of this I thought it was a motor originally so now my line of thinking is probably that the motor is actually what caused my original switch to to go out so uh I’m going to replace the motor and we’re going to try again so before I go through all the work of replacing the motor and going through all the linkages and everything I’m going to test the new one uh plugged into the truck so hopefully this solves the problem because if it doesn’t uh then I don’t know what it would be other than this box being bad so here’s the pump working try that what am I missing here all right guys here we are a couple of weeks later I’m sorry about that family obligations and such uh but I’ve got another day to work on the truck today and uh did some research while I was out and uh I think I got my my problem figured out I think I didn’t have a good ground I think is what’s going on you have to make sure you have good grounds when you’re doing this stuff um or else you can cause all kinds of issues and uh right now as you can see I’ve got a good ground I know for sure that this right here is a good ground I got a couple alligator clips here going to the ground stud on this old motor which is plugged in and if I try to turn it nothing happens and as a matter of fact the little module under here I don’t know if you can hear it or not making those clicking noises that’s actually a way for you to know that there’s something going on with your motor if that module clicks like that so if I get in here and remove this plug and come down here to my new motor plug it in get the ground strap hooked up correctly and now there we go slow fast and intermittent one thing that I didn’t know because I’ never had intermittent on this truck before uh right here is actually in the middle of the uh uh the movement of this if I turn it to the left this rotation here is what causes the intermittent to happen and the further you rotate it right is uh how it goes faster and then right here this next click that’s off and the next click to the right is slow and the next click to the right is fast and I didn’t know that’s how that works so last time I was a little bit confused as to why you know I didn’t know how it turned on how it turned off I was having it turned all the way to the left thinking maybe if I had it turned all the way to the left that it wouldn’t go at all but all this is is the slowest intermittent setting when it’s all the way to the left like that so yep and that was explaining why this box down here was making all kinds of weird clicking noises and stuff um if the motor doesn’t run correctly this box will do all kinds of weird clicking and everything uh but it’s actually a great indicator of uh of an issue so what that means is that now both my wiper motor and my uh wiper fluid pump are good to go so there’s also this little CI kind of thing here and mine’s in pretty rough shape so I’m going to take it off here and give it a quick once over and evaluate it and see what I want to do with it now let’s see if that comes off looks like there’s also some sealant stuff under here so yeah all right there we go yeah you can see how rough that piece is under there I may want to paint that clean it up paint it before I put it back on all right now there’s a linkage back there that connects the motor to the uh the arms underneath here where the wiper goes there you go that’s it yeah so I got to figure out how to disconnect all that all right guys I’m not sure how well you can see this clip right here that’s what’s holding everything on and so I think what I’ve got to do is get a screwdriver in this little part right here pop this part open this way then move the whole thing off passenger side goes in front driver side goes in the back and there is the clip so let’s take a look at these and see if they are indeed different okay so here’s the old one and here is the new one and take a look yeah yeah they are different yeah the old one’s got a much longer pin so I’m not sure if I’m guessing I’m going to take that whole entire arm off cuz those arms look like they’re they’re about the same uh in terms of length and uh jog right there so I think I just take this there’s a there’s a a bolt there a bolt here I’ll take those arms off and swap them and that should hopefully should take care of it okay quick update for you guys uh I got them both off they are index the same um so if you look they have the same kind of uh holes although they aren’t they don’t have the same Return To Zero location and they are actually a little bit longer but I think oh you know what what I’m doing I got them back to back that’s the that’s why they oh yeah but they’re still they’re backwards right right hm not sure how that’s going to work have to put it in and try it um the other thing that I noticed also is that uh the hole on this one is a little bit smaller than the hole on this one so I may have to file out the inside of this just a little bit to get it to fit on the on the uh Mount pin over there all right well it took some filing and I had to use some torque to get it on there but the old arm is and pin are now on the new motor so let’s get this in the truck and zeroed I’m going to plug it back in I cuz I when I was trying to get this on here um it moved the motor a little bit so I want to get this back in hooked up real quick set it back to zero and then uh I can get it mounted back up so another thing I want to try to do is reuse this ground strap right here it’s uh got this fitting here that goes in that should give me a good solid ground to the body of the truck um and it’s nice and short doesn’t get in the way so hopefully we can reuse it I’m not going to tighten this until I’ve got the mounting done in the back so I can see what this it look like all right that actually looks right all right all right guys I apologize if you missed a little bit uh my phone died on me while it was uh in the middle of putting my wipers on I think it got too hot for the phone out here even in September it’s like 93° outside in New Mexico anyway future editor Ed note here don’t make the same mistake I made and put your wipers on before you put your cowl back on because I had to take those wipers back off again to put the cowl on yeah that was a pain clip uh that Clips down and holds them in place you just have to make sure that uh you get them in the right spot when you put them back on so that they they wipe correctly uh but the the motor goes back to zero automatically and so you just wait for it to go back to zero and then you put the wipers where they belong all right guys so here’s the deal this right here is the old uh sprayer and it’s a dual head so well it’s a single head but it’s dual uh dual sprays okay that’s what came with the truck the kit that I got from Amazon are two single sprays and so if I wanted to use these I could either uh just do a single spray point it toward the driver’s side keep it in the same location and go from there or I could actually drill holes in the cowl on either side and then pop these into the new holes and then run the lines and have a dual spray set up if I wanted to um but I’m going to be honest with you guys and and I think I blew some air through this uh it’s fine and I will tell you this old hose is way better than this new uh hose I got from Amazon I mean it’s just way thicker and it’s still uh in pretty good shape it’s it’s Supple for being uh from 85 if it’s original it may not be I don’t know but uh yeah it’s still in really great shape so I’m just going to keep the old hose and I’m actually going to keep the old sprayer nozzle too because I think uh it’s going to be just fine I think it was just the pump that was the problem uh then I’ll keep this for a spare if I need to but I’ll tell you that the quality of this is nowhere near as good as the quality of what came on the truck and I’ve been learning as I’ve been doing this that that happens quite a lot uh the new stuff that you can buy from Amazon just isn’t as good a quality you know for a long time I was thinking that uh you know if you’re going to replace systems in an old vehicle like this that you probably ought to go through and just replace the entire system with new stuff uh cuz it’ll be better brand new but but the longer I do this the more I go through it the less I think that’s true I think you may be better off keeping some of the old stuff on there because I think it’s just better quality especially the older stuff from like the you know uh prior to the the ’90s and the 2000s uh when a lot of this manufacturing started getting moved over to China now no dig against China well maybe a little dig against chn but generally the newer stuff is not as high quality so there you go take that for what’s worth the the amount for the nozzle is actually on the cowl I can’t Mount that nozzle until I get the cowl back on the truck but I do want to paint this piece first it’s pretty uh pretty rough and uh it doesn’t look nice so while I’ve got it off and I’ve got the opportunity I’m just going to go ahead and clean it up and hit it with uh some bed liner actually some sprayon Rustoleum bed liner that I’ve got um I don’t actually use that for bed lining cuz I don’t think it’s tough enough for that but it is tougher than regular spray paint so uh I’ll hit this with that and that way it’ll be nice and clean and look nice and I’ll put that back on there but before I go through all that I’m actually going to test the nozzle real quick for you guys and go hey look at that beautiful all right here we are the next day and here’s the piece all painted up just uh cleaned it up hit it with a primer hit it with uh uh the rustolium bed liner and then a real quick top clear coat satin finish and uh it should last a long time the cow is tricky especially for just one person and I’m fortunate in that my paint’s not in great shape anyway so if I scratch something up or or uh ruin quote unquote ruin the paint it’s not as big of a deal if I had just got done painting this thing I’d be much much more careful obv obviously why would that not work what’s going on there is there a kink somewhere okay so even though I tested it before with the with it out of the truck and it worked fine now when I’ve got it back in the truck only one side’s working and it’s not working great so hooking That Thing Up and unhook it it’s a real pain in the ass because uh you have to get underneath the cowl and uh try to hook that that hose up to uh the the spray head so what I’ve done is I’ve uh made this little extend and that way when I plug this in it should hang below the cowl and I can actually plug and unplug it down there what have to reach up into the cow to get that done let’s see if uh that works out for me okay well this hose is not the same size I don’t know if I can get that on here or not let’s see almost come on need to go down there good and tight almost there hey look at that all right yeah that’s not going anywhere good oh that side’s blocked so something got in there either got in a hose or when I was uh working on the uh pump there something piece of debris or something got in there and now it’s jammed up inside here okay nope still nothing there there we go all right we got air coming from both holes now good good oh now let’s see if this fitting is going to be big enough for this hose it may not be oh no oh you know what though I think I can make it work maybe we’re going to find out and then when I’m driving down the road later and it all goes to hell I know who to blame just myself as always where’ my hose go there it is that feels like success to me and now if I ever have to mess with that thing there my connection is beneath the cowl inside the hood of the inside the uh the engine bay so as long as it doesn’t come unconnected get up there toward the top where I can’t get to it yeah you know even if it does that new hose is thin enough it’ll actually go through the hole in the cowl which is the problem with the hose that came with the truck it’s too thick to go through uh that ho that hole in the cowl so yeah yeah I’m happy with that I’m going to go inside and button up the inside of the truck I’m not going to bore you guys with that uh it’s pretty simple just putting things back together in there so I think I think we’re done hopefully you learned something today um I know when I went out to look in how to do this there were some videos but nothing quite this in depth so I’m hoping that uh that uh you know you learned something and that maybe this can help you do your own thing especially when it comes to swapping out that motor um and changing the arm around uh I read on Amazon where I bought this thing I’ll put the link in the description for it where um you had to do some modifications but the the the descriptions weren’t real specific as to what modifications you had to do it was most just folks complaining about the fact you had to do a modification so at least now you guys know exactly what sorts of modifications you you got to do you swap that uh the arm around on the back of the motor there you have to I had to file the motor itself uh the mount point on the motor I decided to file the mount point of the motor rather than the arm because that arm uh is original to the truck and I have no idea how I would get a replacement for that um whereas that motor was fairly cheap on Amazon so if I screw it up well okay I use another motor so uh yeah I filed the the mount point on the motor and then got it down to where it was it was almost there and then I used the uh uh the bolt on the back to sort of torque that down and and seat everything real good and it seemed to work just fine got the clip and everything on there uh it went back to zero in the right spot just get your wipers back on and uh good to go there as far as replacing the the water pump or not the water pump I’m sorry the uh the washer pump Ah that’s that’s pretty simple uh there’s not a whole lot to that so uh yeah you just pull the old one out put the new one in and if that’s your only problem that’s like a 5 minute fix there’s nothing to that so yeah again guys hope you learned something if you did please give me a like And subscribe I really appreciate that help out uh helps me out a lot I i’ think I’ll get a hat but I’m not wearing mine today cuz I don’t want to get it messed up uh this is my working on the truck hat so uh anyway thanks again so much for watching guys we will see you next time fine take a r away getting things to shine she’s considered Divine thanks again for watching we will see you next time thanks again for watching we’ll see you next time

I have the power. Hello, all right folks, enough of that cheesy nonsense. Ed here, welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today we’re talking alternators, specifically swapping out the stock 1G alternator for a 3G. As a bonus, I pulled a 3G alternator from my 351 Windsor donor vehicle, and I’ll be using that as a visual aid today.

If you’ve had your truck for a while, especially if you’ve added accessories like lights, new headlights, a better stereo, or maybe an electric fan, you’ve probably noticed that the 1G can struggle to keep up. This is where the 3G comes in. It’s got more power, better reliability, and fewer headaches. So let’s dive into why you’d want to make the switch and how to get it done.

So why do we want to ditch the 1G? Well, the stock 1G alternators from these 1980 to ’86 trucks were fine for their time, but they’ve got a bit of a reputation for being underpowered. They typically put out around 65 amps. It’s okay for a truck back in the ’80s mostly, but once you start adding aftermarket accessories like extra lighting or modern electronics, the 1G just can’t keep up. And then there’s the wiring. The 1G alternators have external regulators and use fusible links, which aren’t the most robust system. The connectors can overheat and melt, and nobody wants that under the hood. It’s like running a garden hose when you really need a fire hose.

Enter the 3G alternator. This upgrade for the mid-’90s is substantial. The 3G alternator is internally regulated, so it ditches that problematic external regulator and fusible link setup. The big deal though is the output. It’s much higher, anywhere from 90 to 130 amps depending on the model. That’s a big leap over the 1G’s 65 amps. What’s great about the 3G is it’s not just more power; it’s more stable power. You’ll get better voltage regulation, which means your truck’s electrical system is happier, especially at idle. With the 1G, your lights might dim or your stereo might cut out when you’re idling at a stoplight. The 3G helps prevent that. And if you’re running a winch or big off-road lights, it’s pretty much a must-have upgrade.

So right here I’ve got the 3G alternator that I pulled for my 351 Windsor donor vehicle. Let’s take a closer look. One thing you notice right away is this connector here. This is the voltage regulator. Unlike the 1G, which had an external regulator mounted on the fender, the 3G has it built right in. Another thing to note is the size. This one here is a 90 AMP version, which is just slightly larger than the 1G but should still fit in the same bracket with no major modifications. If the mounting points are correct, however, this one won’t work directly for a bullnose swap because the mounting ears aren’t correct. This one has three mounting points. What you need is a version with two mounting ears directly offset at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. This is a side mount alternator, and you’re looking for a pivot mount alternator.

So how do I know this one’s 90 amps? Well, the 90 AMP models like the one I’m holding here have four vent holes in the rib sections on the front. If you’re looking for the higher output 130 amp version, those typically have two vent holes and are physically larger. That means the mounting holes in the 130 amp model are spaced further apart. So depending on your bracket setup, you may need to make adjustments for a proper fit. Also, keep in mind if you’re running a single V belt system, the 130 amp version might not work out. A single V belt can only handle about 100 amps before it starts to slip. So if you want to run the 130 amp alternator, you’ll need to upgrade to either a serpentine belt setup or a dual V belt system to handle that extra resistance.

Speaking of that, if your bullnose is running a V-belt setup like mine, you’ll also need to swap the pulley from the 1G onto the 3G. If the 3G has a serpentine pulley like this one, it’s pretty straightforward. Just remove the nut that holds the pulley onto the 1G, slide the V-belt pulley off, and do the same on the 3G to remove it. If it has a serpentine pulley, you’ll probably need a shim to move the pulley out just a bit so the belt doesn’t rub on the case, but those are pretty inexpensive. You can then pop the V-belt pulley onto the 3G alternator and tighten it down. That way everything stays compatible with your existing belt system.

And lastly, the output terminals. This heavy-duty charge stud here is where your main power connects. If you’re upgrading to a 3G, you want to run a heavier gauge wire from here to your battery or solenoid to handle the higher output. Now the good news is that even with all that that I just said, the swap isn’t too complicated. But like any job, you want to have the right parts and prep work done first. You’ll need the alternator itself, like the one I just showed you, but with the right mounting setup. The 3G alternators we’re looking for came off a bunch of Ford vehicles from the mid-’90s. To help you out, I put together a list of vehicles you can source a 3G alternator from, which I’ll throw up on the screen right now. Take a look at these vehicles. You’re looking at anything from the 1994 to ’95 Mustang, which had a 130 amp alternator, to vehicles like the Ford Taurus, Thunderbird, and even E-Series Vans. Other options include the Lincoln Continental and Mercury Cougar. You can pick these up at junkyards, and they’ll bolt right up to your bullnose with a little bit of wiring work.

Now, like I mentioned before, if you’re running a V-belt in your truck, you’ll also need to make sure you swap the pulleys. Get that done before you start the actual swap. You don’t want to find out that you forgot when you’re trying to wrap a V-belt around a serpentine pulley. That’s no fun. Now, if you’re not interested in sourcing a 3G alternator from a junkyard, there are plenty of aftermarket options available. Companies like PA Performance and Tough Stuff offer brand new 3G alternators that are designed specifically for older Ford trucks, including bullnoses. These aftermarket models often come with higher output ratings too, sometimes over 200 amps, and they’re built to handle modern accessories. And what’s great about going aftermarket is that many of these kits include the upgraded wiring, a pretty install V-belt pulley if you need it, and even instructions on how to make the swap as easy as possible. Now, they do cost a bit more than a junkyard pull, but it’s a solid option if you want peace of mind with new parts and you don’t want the hassle of digging through salvage.

All right, so you’ve got your parts. Time to get the old 1G out of there. First, disconnect the battery. That’s always the first step when you’re working on anything electrical. Then remove the old alternator. There’s usually a couple of bolts holding it to the bracket, and you’ll need to disconnect the wiring harness. Now, I’m not going to get into how to physically remove the alternator in this video. It’s fairly simple, just a couple of bolts, and there are several videos out there that will show you exactly how. It can be a bit of a pain to get down there with a socket, but just keep at it, and you’ll get there eventually.

Once the old alternator is out, bolt the 3G into place. It should fit right into the existing bracket with minimal fuss so long as you have the right model. If it’s a little tight, some folks have had to grind or modify the bracket slightly, but usually it’s nothing major. Now for the wiring, like I mentioned, the 3G has built-in regulation, so you won’t need the external voltage regulator anymore. Ditch that thing. The external regulator is typically mounted on the passenger side fender inside the engine bay. It’s a small rectangular box with a wiring harness plugged into it. You’ll wire up the new alternator using the 3G harness, so make sure you grab that from your donor if you go that route. If you’re making your own harness, the main thing to get is the power wire from the alternator to the battery or starter solenoid and the smaller wires for the ignition and dash warning light. This is also where you upgrade the charging wire. Go ahead and run that new 4 gauge wire from the alternator to your solenoid or battery, depending on your setup. Put a mega fuse in line to keep everything safe in case of a short.

Once it’s all wired up, double-check your connections. Make sure everything’s tight and secure. Then reconnect your battery, fire up the truck, and check the voltage at the battery with a multimeter. You should see somewhere around 14 volts, give or take. If it’s good, you’re in business. Take a spin around the block, turn on your headlights, crank up the stereo, maybe even turn on any accessories you got, and you’ll notice everything runs smoother, especially when you’re idling. And just like that, you’ve upgraded your charging system to handle pretty much anything you can throw at it. That is until you run your huge set of off-road KC lights while you’re cranking ACDC at your 2500 watt stereo.

So there you have it, the 3G alternator swap. It’s one of those upgrades that makes a world of difference in how your truck runs, especially if you’ve got a lot of electrical demands. More power, better reliability, and less chance of ending up on the side of the road with a melted connector. If you’re thinking about tackling this job, go for it. It’s a solid weekend project that’ll pay off every time you turn the key. Guys, if you learned something today, if you enjoy the content, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that. I’m not trying to beg, but it really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. It’s the day I’ve been waiting for since I bought this thing almost 5 years ago. Today, I’m starting to tear down this 351 Windsor engine, so buckle up, come along, and you’ll see what surprises I discover, both good and bad, from some shocking discoveries, oh, cut all these, to truly painful lessons, and even how much profit, yeah, profit, I’m making off this B. Boy, you don’t want to miss it. Let’s dig in.

Hello. So before we start, I’m going to put up what I paid for this ’95 F-150 chassis with the 351 Windsor and an E4OD transmission. I basically stole it from the guy for 500 bucks, so let’s put that on the screen and we’ll tally the score as we go. What you see is what I got, plus ECM and wiring harness, the steering column, steering wheel, and the gauge cluster. Now, I’ve already sold the gas tanks, the gauge cluster, and the steering wheel with column, so I’m well on my way to at least breaking even and getting the block for free, if nothing else. But I think I’ll do a lot better than that. Let’s see. By the way, I’m future commentary Ed, and I’ll be with you the rest of the way. Double dose.

The first thing I pulled off was the cruise control module, followed by the throttle cable. Both were connected to the throttle body linkage and right on top, so they’re easy to get to. And just like that, a quick $25. Cru. Oh yeah, I remember this part, so does my thumb. That’s going to hurt for a while. Try to take off one of those stubborn rain clamps with pliers. It wasn’t pretty, and there’s the pain I promised you. The brake fluid reservoir pretty much rotted away completely, so there was no way to drain it without getting brake fluid everywhere. I only got some, got more in my shoes. That’s what being out in the southwestern sun every day for 5 years will do to plastic.

So back when I got this donor chassis from a guy in Facebook Marketplace, he was planning on a build but decided to go another way. I suspect it might be because the frame is bent. He didn’t tell me that, but it doesn’t really matter since I’m not using the frame. He even trailered it over from the next town for free. It’s like an hour away, so nice guy. But you know, when you inherit someone else’s project, cleaning things up, there can be surprises. You’ll see what I mean later. I am so adept at everything, so amazingly amazing. Wait a minute, that, oh man, yeah, the bolts for the brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder were practically welded together with rust, so I ended up taking the whole assembly off. And guess what? It wasn’t worth anything. Straight to the trash it goes.

All right, what’s next? I’m not sure if they drained this fluid or not. Oh, it feels pretty empty. Day one may not seem like much progress, but hey, I’m a noob. Newbies got to learn somehow. At least I managed to make a quick $75 and get a bunch of hoses and bits off to start cleaning things up. What about that solenoid? The EGR vacuum regulator solenoid can be a bit more valuable, especially good work. Oh, and by the way, I use AI a lot. You might have already noticed from the images on some of my videos. It’s a huge help. It’s like having a mechanic but in my pocket. I can ask questions on the fly and get instant answers for part numbers or how to remove something. I know there are mixed opinions about AI, but I’m not going to apologize or make excuses for using it. It saves me a ton of time and energy. If you’re not at least checking it out for yourself, you’re kind of missing the boat. If you’re interested in how I’m using AI to help with this tear down and with my channel, let me know. I might just make a video about how I use it.

Finally getting the radiator off here. It’s hung off the front of this thing for 5 years. Do yourself a favor and always be sure to drain the radiator and cooling system before pulling one off. Foreshadowing. I’m planning on keeping it to use in my engine run stand later, so I won’t be selling it. But if I did, that’d be a quick 80 bucks. Little bit. By the way, I’m sorry you’re spending so much time watching my back in this video. I was more focused on working my way around the engine than keeping an eye on the camera. But don’t worry, I mean, that’s why future commentary Ed is here today, keeping you company. Ant hoses, not worth jack in this condition. Like I’m saying, those aren’t worth anything. As I go, I’m snapping pictures to check part numbers, find values, and decide what might be useful for my new build. Spoiler alert, there’s not much I want to use, so most of it’s either going in the trash or up for grabs on Marketplace.

This part is a DPF sensor, and I know that thanks to my AI friend. I also know it’s not worth much. Here I am taking off the alternator, a 3G. By the way, this one won’t fit my Bullnose since it’s side mount, not pivot mount, so up for sale it goes. That’s 40 bucks in my pocket. And hey, if you’ve got an older truck and haven’t done the 3G swap yet, what are you waiting for? I’ve got a great video on just how to do it. Trust me, it’s an easy mod that makes a huge difference. You should go check it out. Amazing, you have part number, but you probably don’t, Mr. Unidentified Bracket. Unidentified throttle body bracket thing. Sh, no part number. I’m guessing, I’m guessing the gasket is not worth jack. You’re right, past Ed, the gasket isn’t worth jack. Most of them aren’t. Oh, that’s dirty. Some, and off comes the throttle body. But even dirty as it is, cleaned up, it’ll probably net me around 65 bucks. So that’s day two in the can and another $85 in my pocket. If you’re keeping score, you notice I’m almost breaking even and I haven’t even talked about the transmission, which will be in the next video. Differential or wheels? Yet not too shabby, right?

Know what that is? It’s a vacuum reservoir or something. I don’t know what it is. That’s what it is. It’s a vacuum something. By the way, if any of you know what this hose is, let me know in the comments. I spent an hour searching for one and just came up empty. Just like that, I guess I ended up removing the entire bracket for the smog pump. Why? Well, because to take off just the pump, you have to pull the pulley off so you can get to the bolts. It’s easier just to take the whole bracket with the pump still attached. I can always separate them later or sell them as one unit. But for accounting sake, let’s break it down. Smog pump, 80 bucks. Bracket, 75. Now, I bet someone who knows what they’re doing could have stripped this thing in a short afternoon. For me, it took 4 days spread over 3 weeks to get to the point at the end of this video. But hey, I mean, that’s how you learn, right? I mean, at least that’s how I do it.

The AC compressor comes off pretty easy, provided it’s already drained. And just a quick reminder, if it’s not empty, make sure you handle it safely and legally. Uh, mine was already drained, so it was an easy removal. You have to drain it. You have to make sure that you don’t discharge it into the air. Well, that’s another 80 bucks added to the total. Next up, the transmission cooler. That came off quickly too, and I’m hoping to get around 20 bucks for it. Oh, and then there’s that. Not sure what size that is. Oh, it’s that size. Ooh, it’s that size. Now can I actually get this in here? Probably not. Oh, maybe. Hey, look at that. I decided to just cut the power steering pump lines here since it was a pain to remove. The lines aren’t worth anything in this condition anyway. I did gain a valuable lesson in environmentalism, though. Come on, you there, just go in there. Whoops, okay, okay. I thought it was interesting how the power steering lines loop around the front of the chassis here. It’s for cooling, like a poor man’s radiator. I didn’t know that until I worked on this thing. So that’s day three and a cool 255 bucks.

Day four, I decided to get the radiator fan out of the way. I even rented the special tool from the parts store, only to find out I didn’t need it. Turns out the fan had four regular bolts. A socket and strap wrench took care of the job with the clutch included. That’s another 80 bucks. Power steering pump, same story as the smog pump. You have to remove the pulley to get it off the bracket, so I took the whole thing off instead. Now, I could use this pump for my new build, but I’m probably going to go with a saginaw pump, maybe even like a nice chrome one. So this old one is going to go in the sale bin. That’s another 65 bucks for the pump and 50 for the bracket.

I discovered that the intake has one star bolt in the middle on the inside. I’m not sure why they would do that, but clearly, I’m not an engineer. I’m sure there’s a good reason for that. I don’t know what it is. Are you joking? Not only is it a different bolt, but it’s tucked down under and between the intake runners, so the star bit I had originally wouldn’t fit. The base was too big around. Fortunately, like any man card-holding member of society, I never throw away a tool, so all I had to do was search long enough to find what I needed. Please be the right size, kind of small. Please be the right size. There we go, and off comes the upper intake. That right there is a big chunk of aluminum and a big chunk to the kitty.

Remember when I mentioned inheriting someone else’s project? It’s moments like this that remind me that you have to take the bad with the good. Oh, he cut all these. He just cut them all, so these are garbage because he just cut them. Like, he just cut them. I didn’t even realize he did that, but yeah, whoever had it before me just cut them. Just straight up snip, snip, snip, snip, motherfucker. Oh, bastard. My guess is that he tried to get it off reasonably and then probably couldn’t, and then so he just decided, you know, fuck it, I’ll replace all that anyway. But this harness is garbage because you could tell all the wires. So unfortunate. The fuel rails might be worth something, but the harness is garbage. HOH. I thought maybe I dropped that into the unit tank. Doesn’t really matter. I’m taking it all apart anyway, but that would just mean I had to take it apart. I wouldn’t have any choice anymore. Let’s go put garbage in the garbage. This harness would have been around 80 bucks, but the previous owner cut the wires to the injectors. Still, just look at that total down there. I cannot complain. And that’s as far as I got on my 4-day adventure. Let’s head out and take a closer look.

Okay, so here’s how it sits right now. Fuel rails are still on there. I’ll probably go ahead and pull the engine off those. You see, I’ve got my intake holes covered up here. I still got the transmission to get off there and all that kind of stuff. I still got to drain the oil and the fluid. I’ll do that probably before I move it. Obviously, I’ve got this issue with this tire here. It’s pretty much roached. I’m not sure if I can roll it like that or not. I don’t have to go very far, just up out this gate and over to the garage over there. So I got a plan for that. See, yeah, like I said before, I’m leaving the exhaust manifolds on here because I just don’t want those big open gaping holes out into the environment here. I’ll take that stuff off once I pull the engine. I don’t quite yet have a plan for how I’m going to pull the engine in the… I don’t have a tranny hoist, but I do have some jacks and, you know, a lot of wood, so I think I can figure that out. Backyard mechanic special coming at you.

So that’s where we are now. But what’s the plan? Well, this video is just a start of a whole series covering the complete rebuild of this 351 Windsor from pulling it out of the chassis all the way to running it down the strip. My goal is to strip this engine down to the block, take it to the machine shop, build it back up, drop it in the truck, and then take it out for a quarter-mile run. And I’m going to cover every single step of the way for guys like me who don’t really know what they’re doing but they’re ready to learn. Next up is getting that chassis into the garage, and since it can’t move under its own power and it’s heavy as hell even without the body, you’re probably wondering how I’m going to do that. Don’t worry, I got a plan. Stay tuned for that.

Once the chassis is in, I’ll be pulling the engine off and we’ll tear it down together. We’ll go through it with a fine-tooth comb, looking at how the engine’s been treated, what signs to look for during a rebuild, and everything else you need to know when tackling a project like this. Once that’s done, we’ll get the block to the machine shop and talk to the machinist. We’ll cover all the services they offer, what they cost, what they’re for, and why you might need them or not, depending on your build. We’ll go through the whole nine yards. Then we paint the block. After that, I’ll walk you through the entire engine build. We’ll talk about component choices, camshaft, valves, lifters, rotating assembly, everything. I’ll explain why you choose certain parts, how they work together, and how to build the right kind of engine for your needs, whether it’s high torque, high horsepower, street, or strip. And I’ll share why I’m making the choices I am for this build.

Hopefully, by the end of the series, you’ll be able to grab my parts list and replicate my engine build from scratch, even if you’re not a mechanic. My goal is to be that detailed with you guys, especially during the build process. Look, I’ve done my homework. I’ve bought books, I read up on everything, I’ve watched dozens, probably hundreds of YouTube videos, but there’s still a lot that I don’t know. So I hope to bring in a pro to help fill those gaps. When you’re building an engine, missing even one small detail can come back to haunt you later, so I’ll make sure we go over everything step by step. That way, we can learn together. And if I succeed, great. But if I fail, well, you know, that’s great content too because it’ll help you avoid making the same mistakes.

Once it’s built, I want to get this engine on a stand and fire it up first. Then I’ll pull the 3006 out and I’ll go through that process with you so we can talk about what parts need to keep and what to replace, cleaning and painting the engine bay, decluttering and cleaning up the electrical system. Then we can drop the Windsor into the truck, get everything hooked up, and take it out for a test drive. And I want you to be there with me for every step. The ultimate goal? Well, the last series of this episode will hopefully be me taking that truck to the strip and getting a quarter-mile time. That’s where I want to end this series, but not the channel. There’s lots more to do than just the engine. Now, it’s going to take a while. I’m a busy guy. I got a family and a job and a lot of other stuff going on. But my hope is to create a series of videos that you can sit back, watch, and binge like a Netflix series. And by the time you’re done, you’ll know exactly how to take an engine off the chassis, rebuild it, and get it running.

Guys, if you’re excited to follow along with me, here’s the ask: like and subscribe, hit the bell for notifications, and keep up with this build. And if you want to support the channel and help me buy some cool performance parts, grab yourself a hat from the merch store. Thanks again so much for watching, guys. I hope you join me for this adventure, and we will see you next time around the edges. But she’s doing fine, take her away, getting things to shine. She’s consider. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We’ll see you next time.

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And today, I am underneath the Bullnose to talk to you about this. This is the Ford 8.8 rear axle. It’s what I have in my truck, and if you guys got a Bullnose, it’s a pretty good chance it’s what you guys got in yours too. Ford put a bunch of these in Bullnose trucks and Broncos throughout the ’80s. So, uh, it’s a pretty good axle. If you’re going to put a whole bunch of horsepower or do a whole lot of torque, it may not be enough, but for the most part, you should be okay. I think I’m going to keep mine, believe it or not. So let’s talk about it.

Hello. So the Ford 8.8, let’s start with a quick overview. The 8.8-inch axle was introduced back in 1983. Ford needed something to replace their older 9-inch axle, and the 8.8 quickly became the go-to for light-duty trucks, SUVs, and even performance cars like the Mustang. But what makes it special? It was used a lot. As a matter of fact, both my 1985 and my 351 Windsor donor vehicle have it installed from the factory. The 8.8-inch axle offers a great mix of strength and cost, making it an axle that Ford put a lot of trust in from the mid-late ’80s and even into the 2000s.

Now you might wonder why Ford moved away from the 9-inch. The 9-inch is legendary, no doubt, but it was also more expensive to produce. The 8.8-inch was engineered to be more cost-effective while still offering plenty of strength for most applications, especially in light trucks and performance vehicles. Now, if you’re rocking a Bullnose Ford from ’80 to ’86, this axle might already be in your truck. Starting at ’83, the 8.8-inch began replacing the 9-inch in some F150s and Broncos, especially in four-wheel-drive models and those with bigger engines. But not always, because mine’s a 300 and it’s got an 8.8. So it could be in a lot of stuff.

Uh, it didn’t stop there. The 8.8 found its way into all sorts of Ford vehicles, from the Mustang to the Explorer and even into the Ranger. Its strength and adaptability made it a hit in the performance and off-road scenes too. Here’s a quick look at all the vehicles that came equipped with the 8.8-inch axle from the factory. As you can see, the 8.8 axle wasn’t just for trucks; it found its way into a variety of Ford lineups. So whether you’re working on a Mustang, an Explorer, or a Bronco, there’s a pretty good chance this axle could be part of your build.

All right, let’s get a bit more technical. The Ford 8.8-inch is a solid rear axle using a single housing to enclose the differential and the axle shafts. The axle tube has a diameter of 3 inches, and in later models, especially from the mid-’90s onward, Ford used heat-treated 1541H steel for added strength. That said, earlier models likely used lower-grade carbon steel, which worked just fine for lighter-duty needs. Now here’s the kicker: there’s no real way to know for sure what material your axle is made from since Ford didn’t mark or document it clearly. But honestly, for most builds, that’s not something you need to worry about.

If you’re building a high-horsepower truck, doing extreme off-roading, or towing heavy, you might care more about the material, but that’s where aftermarket axles come into play. Most folks will find the stock axles more than up to the job, especially if you’ve got 31-spline shafts. And if you’re looking for maximum strength, aftermarket 31-spline shafts, often made from chromoly, are always an option. Another big plus for this axle is the variety of available gear ratios, ranging from 2.73 to 1 for better fuel efficiency to 5.13 to 1 for those who need serious low-end torque. For most folks, ratios like 3.55 to 1, 3.73 to 1, and 4.10 to 1 hit that sweet spot for both street and off-road use. You can tailor your setup to your driving needs, whether that’s quicker acceleration or better fuel economy.

So how does the Ford 8.8 compare to some of the other axles folks might be thinking about? Let’s break it down real quick. We’ll start with the little 7.5-inch axle. This actually was commonly found in earlier F-150s and Rangers. It’s fine for light-duty work, but its 26-spline axle shafts and smaller 7.5-inch ring gear mean it can only handle around 250-300 lb-ft of torque at most. It’s lighter than the 8.8, but it lacks the strength, making the 8.8 a solid upgrade if you’re putting down more power or doing some serious off-roading.

Now, the 9-inch axle. This is the heavy hitter known for its strength and modular design. With a 9-inch ring gear and larger components, it can handle over 4,000 lb-ft of torque, making it great for high-horsepower or quirky applications like towing. However, it’s heavier and more expensive to build and maintain. The 8.8 could still handle plenty of power, up to around 3,500 lb-ft with 31-spline shafts, but it’s lighter, more cost-effective, and it’s a better option for most builds.

The Dana 44 and the Dana 60. The Dana 44, often found in the front of four-wheel-drive trucks, is solid for moderate off-roading but doesn’t quite match the rear 8.8 strength for towing or higher torque builds. The Dana 60 is a different story. This axle can handle well over 5,000 foot-pounds of torque, making it ideal for extreme off-road or heavy-duty use. However, it’s much heavier and, again, it’s probably overkill unless you’re doing serious towing or crawling.

So, installing a 8.8 in your Bullnose isn’t too tricky because it came like that from the factory, but there’s a few things to keep in mind. First off, make sure your new axle has the correct pinion angle for your truck’s suspension setup. Getting this angle wrong can lead to vibration issues that are a pain to deal with. If you’re moving from a smaller axle like the 7.5 to the 8.8, you may need to make some modifications to fit the larger axle tubes and ring gear. For example, the axle shafts are thicker and stronger, so you want to double-check your clearance. Additionally, if you decide to swap from drum to disc brakes, that’ll require new brake lines and compatible calipers if you’re doing that, so be prepared for some extra work there.

Also, keep an eye on weight distribution, especially if you’re doing any performance mods like lowering or lifting your truck. Adjusting the pinion angle and verifying your suspension geometry are crucial steps for ensuring smooth performance and avoiding wear on your driveline. Double-check your torque specs on the axle nuts and make sure everything’s torqued down to prevent any looseness down the road.

The Ford 8.8-inch axle is a popular candidate for upgrades, especially for those looking to handle more power or do more serious off-roading. Upgrading your axle shaft to 31-spline versions is a power move, especially if you’re pushing more horses or plan to pull some. The 31-spline shafts offer a substantial increase in strength over the stock 28-spline versions, providing extra peace of mind when hauling or driving like a maniac, if you’re into that.

Another modification to consider is reinforcing the axle housing with an axle truss, especially if you’re taking your truck off-road. The truss adds rigidity to the axle and helps prevent bending or flexing.

So, to wrap it all up, the 8.8-inch axle wasn’t just a random replacement for the 9-inch. It was part of Ford’s effort to create a more cost-effective yet durable solution for their lineup of light-duty trucks, SUVs, and performance cars. Ford knew the 9-inch was a beast, but they needed something that could handle a wide range of applications without driving up production costs. The 8.8 delivered that balance perfectly, offering a strong, reliable axle that could handle towing, off-roading, and performance builds without breaking the bank.

And here’s a fun fact: while the 8.8-inch axle started out in trucks and Mustangs, it’s now a popular swap option for all kinds of vehicles, including hot rods and even some off-brand 4x4s. That’s how versatile and well-regarded this axle has become. So whether you’re upgrading or just keeping your Bullnose running strong, the 8.8 has proven itself a go-to axle that Ford got right pretty much from the start.

As for me, I’ve already got an 8.8 in my S-150. Now, it’s probably the 28-spline version. I haven’t actually taken off the, uh, the pumpkin housing and checked, but when I do that, I suspect I’m going to find a 28-spline version. Now I’m looking at putting about 4 to 500 horsepower through that truck eventually, so I may be a candidate for upgrading to a 31-spline, but I don’t think I need to go quite as far as the 9-inch.

All right, guys, well, there you go. Everything that I know, or pretend to know, about the Ford 8.8 rear axle, just like I’ve got right here in the back of the donor, obviously sent down from God. As you can see, the rays coming down on this beautiful roached-out chassis. Guys, if you learned something, if, uh, you like this kind of content, if I did a good job, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that. If you want to support the channel, head to the merch store, get yourself a cool hat, t-shirt, bumper sticker, that kind of stuff. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. And as always, always thanks again for watching, guys. We will see you next time.

Oh hello! The Ford 302 V8, or as many folks know it, the 5 Miler, is nothing short of legendary in the engine world. It first showed up in the late 1960s and has since powered everything from classic Mustangs to the tough Bullnose Ford trucks. Known for its reliability, solid performance, and the vast aftermarket support it enjoys, the 302 is a favorite among engine builders and car enthusiasts alike. Whether you’re restoring an old Ford or trying to squeeze a bit more horsepower out of your Bullnose, getting to know the 302 inside and out is an important part of servicing it or swapping it in. In this guide, I’ll walk you through its history, specs, performance, and some of the most popular mods. By the end, you’ll understand why this engine has earned such a loyal following.

The Ford 302 V8 made its debut in 1968, bridging the gap between Ford’s smaller 289 and larger 351 Windsor engines. But the 302 certainly wasn’t just a one-trick pony; it quickly became a go-to for a wide range of Ford vehicles over the decades, from the Ford Galaxy to, of course, the Mustang, to the F-series, Bronco, and Explorer. I’ve created this chart which shows exactly where this engine found a home, listing every vehicle, the years it was used, and whether it was a roller block or not. This way, you can know where to go if you want to pull it from a yard or classified post like Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist.

Starting in 1969, the 302 was a popular choice for performance models like the Mustang. But as emission regulations tightened in the 1970s, the engine had to adapt, often at the cost of power. In the 1980s, Ford revitalized the 302 with a high output, or HO version, starting in the Mustang GT. This version featured upgrades like a roller camshaft and higher compression, boosting performance significantly. By 1986, the switch to electronic fuel injection, or EFI, marked a new era of efficiency and reliability. The 1990s brought further enhancements with the introduction of the GT40 heads, particularly in the Ford Explorer. These heads offered improved airflow, making the 302 even more popular among performance enthusiasts. Even after its official retirement in 2001, the 302’s legacy lives on in countless classic cars and trucks.

Over the years, the 302 saw several important updates, including changes to the valve train and rear main seal. This chart I put together takes a closer look at how these updates rolled out year by year, so you can get an idea of which type of engine you might find in a vehicle of that year. The Ford 302 is a compact, lightweight V8 that’s ideal for restoration projects and high-performance builds. Let’s go over the nuts and bolts. First off, the 302 is a 90° overhead valve train V8 with a displacement of, guess it, 302 cubic inches, or 5.0 L. It’s got a 4-inch bore and a 3-inch stroke, which gives it that well-balanced performance. Depending on the year, the compression ratio ranges from 8.0 to 1 to 9.5 to 1. Now, despite being a V8, the 302 is relatively light; it weighs around 460 to 475 lbs with iron heads and intake. The engine block is made of cast iron, which adds durability. Most 302s have a cast iron crankshaft too, though some high-performance models came with Ford steel crankshafts, which are stronger and more durable.

When it comes to firing order, the early 302s were set up with 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, but in 1982, when Ford introduced the high output, or HO version, they switched it up to 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 for better performance. Another key update happened at the end of 1982, transitioning into the 1983 model year, where Ford moved from a two-piece rear main seal to a one-piece design. This change really improved reliability by cutting down those pesky oil leaks that were common with the older setup. It’s a big deal if you’re rebuilding or sourcing parts for these engines.

Now let’s talk power. Early 302s put out anywhere between 140 and 200 horsepower, depending on the year and model. Though with the HO version of the 1980s, you can see it up to 225 horsepower, with torque ranging from around 240 to 300 lb-ft. Size-wise, the 302 measures about 27 inches long, 29 inches wide, and 27 inches high. These compact dimensions made it a popular choice for a variety of vehicles, from sports cars to trucks. That’s one of the reasons why the 302 is such a great option for swapping into classic vehicles. The 302 holds about 5 quarts of oil, including the filter, and it typically runs best with SAE 10W-30 oil, depending on your climate and specific needs.

The Ford 302 is known for packing a solid punch in a relatively small package. One of its biggest strengths is its broad power band, delivering torque early and keeping it across a wide range of RPMs. This translates to good acceleration and towing capability, especially in heavier vehicles like trucks. What really makes the 302 shine, though, is its tuning potential. With a massive aftermarket, you can easily upgrade this engine to meet almost any performance goal, whether you want a streetable 350 horsepower build or a high-revving 500-plus horsepower beast. The 302 can deliver with the right modifications.

Now, when working on a classic Ford project, you might encounter various small block V8 engines such as the 302, 351 Windsor, 289, and 260. Although they share a common lineage, each engine has its own strengths. The 302, however, stands out for its versatility and balance of power and size. The 302’s 302 cubic inches of displacement strike a balance between the smaller 289 and 260 engines and the larger 351 Windsor. With the right parts, the 302 can safely handle up to around 450 to 500 horsepower before risking damage to the stock block. Pushing beyond this range increases the risk of cracking or other failures, making the 302 ideal for moderate to high-performance builds where durability is key.

On the other hand, the 351 Windsor, with its larger displacement, offers greater torque and power potential right off the gate. It’s a better choice for those seeking maximum horsepower with fewer modifications, as it can handle more power without compromising reliability. The smaller 289 and 260 engines are lighter and provide a good fit for certain builds, but they don’t offer the same power potential as the 302 or 351 Windsor. Identifying these engines is essential, especially when sourcing parts. The 302 and 289 are close in size, but the 289 typically has smaller valve heads and a different firing order, except for the HO. The 351 Windsor is easily distinguishable by its taller deck height, which makes it physically larger. This increased height raises the intake manifold and creates a wider gap between the cylinder heads. Additionally, the distributor on the 351 Windsor sits higher due to the deck height. On the 302, this makes the distributor mount almost flush at the top of the block. Both the 351 Windsor and the HO version of the 302 share the same firing order, 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

Among these small block V8s, the 302 is probably the best blend of performance, size, and aftermarket support. It’s light enough to improve handling in smaller vehicles like Mustangs, yet strong enough to deliver reliable power in trucks and muscle cars. Its popularity ensures a wide range of available parts and tuning expertise, making the 302 a common choice for enthusiasts. By understanding these differences, you can select the engine that best matches your project performance goals and needs. Like me, I’m choosing 351 because, you know, there’s no replacement for displacement.

The Ford 302 is a tough engine, but like any machine, it has its quirks. Keeping an eye out for a few common issues can save you a lot of trouble down the road. One thing you want to watch out for is oil leaks. These are pretty common, especially around the valve covers, rear main seal, and oil pan gasket. Regular checks and replacing gaskets when needed can help keep these leaks in check. And if you rebuild a worn engine, it’s worth investing in high-quality gaskets to prevent future problems. Another thing to keep an eye on is the timing chain. Over time, these can stretch, which can lead to poor performance or even cause engine damage. Upgrading to a double roller timing chain during a rebuild is a solid move; it improves your reliability and can give you some peace of mind.

Overheating is another issue that some 302s struggle with, particularly in older vehicles where the radiator or water pump might be past its prime. Upgrading to an aluminum radiator and a high-flow water pump can make a big difference in keeping your engine cool, even when you’re pushing it hard. And let’s not forget about the ignition system. Early 302s use points ignition systems, which can become unreliable as they age. Switching to an electronic ignition system, like Ford DuraSpark or an aftermarket setup, is a great way to boost reliability and make sure your engine fires up every time. By tackling these common issues early, it’ll keep your Ford 302 running strong and avoid those annoying surprises that can pop up when you least expect them.

As I’ve said before, the Ford 302 Windsor is a favorite among engine builders because of its versatility and the wide range of aftermarket parts available. Whether you’re restoring a classic or pushing the limits with a high-performance build, the 302 offers plenty of ways to get more power. One popular upgrade is installing a stroker kit, which increases the engine’s displacement to 347 cubic inches. This involves lengthening the piston stroke, allowing more air and fuel into the engine. With the right parts and professional machining, a 347 stroker can easily push out over 400 horsepower, making it a popular option for those looking to significantly boost performance.

Another key area to consider is the cylinder heads. The stock heads, especially on early 302 models, tend to be restricted, limiting airflow and consequently power. Upgraded aftermarket aluminum heads from brands like Edelbrock, AFR, or Trick Flow can make a huge difference, adding anywhere from 50 to 100 horsepower. Pair those heads with a performance camshaft and intake manifold, and you’ll see even greater gains. Speaking of camshafts, cams play a critical role in how your engine breathes and where it makes power. Later 302s, particularly the HO versions, came with roller camshafts, which are more efficient and can support more aggressive cam profiles. A well-chosen camshaft might add 20 to 40 horsepower on its own, and when combined with other upgrades like better heads and an intake, the results can be pretty impressive.

Now let’s talk about induction. Whether you stick with a carburetor or go for fuel injection, how you manage air and fuel is crucial. The 302 works well with a variety of setups, from a mild 600 CFM four-barrel carb for street use to more aggressive configurations for racing. Upgrading the intake manifold improves airflow, especially when matched with a larger carburetor. If you’re looking for better fuel economy, reliability, and drivability, converting to electronic fuel injection is a solid move. EFI tuning, in particular, can unlock significant gains, especially when paired with other mods like a performance camshaft. And of course, you can’t forget about the exhaust system. A high-flow setup is essential for reducing back pressure and letting the engine breathe freely. Long tube headers usually offer the best performance gains, especially in the mid to high RPM range, though they can be trickier to fit in some vehicles. Shorty headers are easier to install and still provide good improvements over stock manifolds. And if you really want to optimize performance, consider upgrading to a true dual exhaust system with an X-pipe or H-pipe, which helps balance exhaust pulses and reduces back pressure even further.

Finally, all the upgrades in the world won’t reach their full potential without proper tuning. A dyno tune ensures that your air-fuel mixture, ignition timing, and other parameters are dialed in just right for maximum performance. Whether you’re aiming for a street-friendly setup with good drivability and fuel efficiency or a track-focused build where power and responsiveness are everything, getting your 302 tuned properly can make all the difference.

The 302’s compact size and lightweight make it a solid choice for all sorts of engine swaps. It’s a favorite for Fox body Mustangs, where it drops in easily, and there’s a ton of parts and tuning out there to make the process smooth. That’s a big plus if you’re looking to boost performance without too much hassle. But the 302 isn’t just for Mustangs; it’s also a great fit for older Fords like the Falcon or Fairlane, especially if you’re looking to replace a smaller or underpowered engine. The swap gives these classics a real kick without straying too far from what they originally were. If you’re building a hot rod or something custom, the 302’s size really works in your favor. It can squeeze into tight spots where a bigger engine might be a pain, letting you focus more on performance instead of wrestling with fitment issues.

Now, if you’re planning a swap, there are a few things to keep in mind. First off, motor mounts. Depending on your vehicle, you might need custom mounts to get everything lined up right. You’ll also need to check oil pan clearance; the 302’s pan has to clear the crossmember, so you might end up needing a different sump setup depending on what you’re working with. And don’t forget about the transmission. The 302 works with a lot of Ford transmissions, but you’ll need to make sure the bell housing, clutch, and shifter line up properly with your vehicle setup. Get that sorted, and the 302 will give you plenty of reliable power.

Now when it comes to pairing the 302 with the transmission, there are no shortage of options. Over the years, the 302 has been matched with a variety of both manual and automatic transmissions, so you’ve got plenty to choose from depending on your build and driving style. If you’re into manual transmissions, one of the older classics is the Ford Toploader four-speed. It’s known for its durability and smooth shifts, making it a solid choice for muscle cars and some trucks between the ’60s and ’70s. Another popular option is the T5 five-speed manual, which you find in Mustangs from 1983 to 1995. The T5 adds an overdrive gear, which is great if you’re looking to balance performance with a bit of fuel efficiency. For those pushing higher horsepower, the Tremec TKO five-speed is a top aftermarket choice that can handle a lot of torque. Then there’s the Borg Warner T18 and T19 four speeds. These are more rugged, often found in trucks and off-road vehicles where their toughness really shines. The NP435 is another truck-oriented option, well-known for its low first gear and reliability, especially in heavier-duty setups. In the later years, the ZF S542 and S547 five-speeds show up in Ford trucks from the late ’80s through the ’90s. These transmissions are built to handle serious torque, making them ideal for heavy-duty applications. And for a lighter-duty setup, you’ve got the Mazda M5OD five-speed manual overdrive, which is common in F-150s, Rangers, and Explorers, though it’s not ideal if you’re planning to push a lot of torque without some modifications.

On the automatic side, the Ford C4 three-speed is a well-known option, especially in lighter cars and trucks from the ’60s through the early ’80s. It’s reliable for street builds and light performance setups. If you need something stronger, the Ford C6 three-speed is a heavy-duty transmission. It’s often paired with the 302 in trucks and larger vehicles, known for its ability to handle higher torque. In the mid-1980s, Ford introduced the AOD four-speed automatic with overdrive. This one is a good pick if you’re looking to improve fuel efficiency at highway speeds, but you might need some modifications to fit it into an older 302 block. Whether you’re aiming for a classic build, a high-performance setup, or something in between, there is a transmission that’ll work well with your 302.

Now, I know I sound like a broken record, but it bears repeating: one of the biggest advantages of the Ford 302 is the sheer amount of aftermarket support it has. Because this engine is so popular, parts are easy to find and generally affordable, which makes it one of the most accessible V8s to build or modify. If you’re looking to replace an existing 302 or start a new build, you’ve got plenty of options. Rebuilt engines are all over the place, often with warranties included. These are usually built to stock specs but can come with mild upgrades for better performance and reliability. Then there are crate engines, which might be pricier but are ready to install right out of the box. Companies like Ford Performance offer everything from stock replacements to high-performance builds, so you can pretty much pick the level of power you want. And when it comes to parts, the aftermarket for the 302 is huge. Brands like Edelbrock, Trick Flow, AFR, and Holley offer everything from cylinder heads to intake manifolds, and you can even get complete top-end kits. Whether you’re just looking for a slight bump in power or planning a full-blown race build, the parts are out there, and you don’t have to wait long to get them. And cost-wise, the 302 is one of the most affordable V8s to work on. The wide availability of parts keeps prices down, and the performance per dollar is hard to beat. In short, if you’re looking to build or restore a classic V8, the Ford 302 is a solid choice. With a combination of affordability, performance potential, and ease of finding parts, it’s no wonder this engine remains a favorite among enthusiasts.

The 302 made a huge impact on the automotive world, quickly becoming a cornerstone of Ford’s performance lineup. Its role in the Mustang, especially in models like the Boss 302 and Mustang GT, helped define the muscle car era. And when it powered the Fox body Mustang through the ’80s and ’90s, it stayed at the forefront of American performance culture, showing just how easily this engine could be modified for more power. And even though the 302 officially retired in 2001, it’s far from forgotten. It’s still a favorite among builders, racers, and restorers, thanks to its perfect balance of size, weight, and power. You’ll find it in everything from classic resto mods to drag racers. The 302 wasn’t just a hit in the Mustang, though; it powered some of Ford’s most iconic vehicles, like the F-series trucks. Each role in these bestsellers helped cement the 302’s reputation as a versatile, dependable engine. In short, the Ford 302 isn’t just an engine; it’s a legend. With over 50 years of history behind it, the 302 has proven itself time and again, whether on the street, the track, or off-road. Whether you’re building a street cruiser, a drag racer, or restoring a classic truck, the 302 gives you a solid foundation with endless possibilities. And with all the parts and support still available today, there’s never been a better time to build your perfect 302.

Well, that’s it, guys! Everything I know, or pretend to know, about the Ford 302 5.0 L engine. You know, these things are everywhere. Ford made at least 10 million; some estimates put it as high as 20 million units of these over their entire production run. So if you want, go get you one. If you’re looking for which vehicles they came in, so you know how to pull one, make sure you reference the chart that I put earlier in the video. That’ll tell you all the vehicles and the years that you can find them in. So I don’t know what else to say that hasn’t already been said about this amazing engine, other than maybe legendary, but I’ve said that a few times: legendary. Guys, if you like this kind of content, if you found something interesting in this video, if you learned something new, give me a like, give me a subscribe. It really helps me out and lets me know that this is the kind of content that you guys want to see so I can make more of it. If you really want to support the channel, head over to my merch store. You get some really cool stuff. I made some hats, t-shirts, bumper stickers, and stickers just for the 302 and for this video. So if you guys want to show your support for the channel or you want to show your love for the legendary Ford 302 5.0 L engine, go grab you some stuff. It’s really cool. So if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. You know, when I first got my Bullnose and started looking around at some of the modifications I might want to do to it, there are so many options out there that I wasn’t even sure how to begin wrapping my head around them all. You’ve got all kinds of different engine options, transmission options, axle options, modification options. It can get really overwhelming. So I think what I’d like to do today is sort of a 50,000 foot view lightning round of all the different engines and transmissions that either came with a Bullnose or can be easily swapped into a Bullnose to give you guys an idea of what some of the options are out there for your build. I’ll also talk about some of the axles, some of the other components, and some of the more common modifications that people make to Bullnose trucks to, uh, you know, make them better. So stay tuned and we’re going to do it.

All right, we’re going to start with engines in no particular order. Let’s start with the Ford 300 inline six or four part nine meter. This bulletproof straight six was available from 1980 to 1986. Known for its low end torque and durability, it’s a workhorse engine, perfect for heavy duty use, and it’s what I have in my truck right now. Then you’ve got the Ford 3.8 liter Essex V6. It was only available in 1982. The 3.8 liter Essex V6 is a compact engine with moderate power typically found in the F100. It’s not as popular as the other options just because it doesn’t really have that much oomph. Next, you’ve got the Ford 255 V8 4.2 liter. It was offered from 1980 to 1982. This small V8 was aimed at better fuel economy, but it’s often considered underpowered compared to the other V8s. Now we’ve got the Ford 289 V8 4.7 liter. While not originally stocked in Bullnose trucks, 289 is a popular swap for those running a piece of Ford’s performance heritage in their build. And now we start getting into the bigger boys. This is the Ford 302 Windsor V8 5.0 liter. It’s a mainstay from 1980 to 1986. 302 Windsor is well loved for its balance of power, reliability, and widespread parts availability. You can find 302s everywhere in all kinds of vehicles. They’re really easy to get a hold of. And next we’ve got my personal favorite, the Ford 351 Windsor V8 5.8 liter. It was also available throughout the Bullnose years. And the 351 Windsor offers more torque and horsepower than the 302, making it a popular choice for towing and heavy duty tasks. It’s also the choice for my build in my truck.

Now we’ve got the Ford 351M or modified, the V8 5.8 liter. This engine was available from 1980 to 1982, mostly in trucks and heavy duty applications. It’s essentially a truck-tuned version of the 351 Cleveland. And that brings us to the Ford 351 Cleveland 5.8 liter. And this one didn’t come stock in Bullnose trucks, but it is a popular swap for those seeking high RPM power. The Cleveland’s large port heads make it a favorite for performance builds. It’s basically a performance 5.8 liter. Now we’re getting even bigger. Ford 400 V8 6.6 liter. It was available in the early Bullnose years. The 400 is similar to the 351M, but it’s got a longer stroke, so it offers more torque for heavy duty needs. And now we’ve got the big boy, the Ford 460 V8 7.5 liter. This big block 460 was available in Bullnose trucks from 1980 to 1986, typically the F250s and 350s. It offered massive torque and power, making it ideal for towing and heavy hauling. It’s also used for huge performance builds.

Now let’s move on to a couple of diesel engines. You’ve got the 6.9 liter IDI V8 diesel. It was introduced in 1983, and this international harvester diesel engine is known for its durability and efficiency. It offers serious pulling power for diesel enthusiasts. And then a step up from that is the 7.3 liter IDI V8 diesel. It was introduced in 1988, so it was not in stock Bullnose’s, but it is a popular swap for Bullnose trucks because it provides more displacement and power from the 6.9 liter with similar reliability. There you go. There’s the engines.

All right, moving on to transmissions. I’m going to start with a bit of a tease. That’s the BorgWarner tease, beginning with the T18. It’s a four-speed. It’s a heavy duty manual transmission available from 1980 to 1986. The T18 is known for its durability and low first gear, perfect for off-roading or heavy loads. Next is the BorgWarner T19. It’s also a four-speed, but it’s synchronized. It’s available in the same years as the T18, and the T19 offers synchronized gears, makes it a bit smoother in operation while retaining the T18’s toughness. Now we’ll move on to the new process NP435 four-speed. It’s another heavy duty four-speed manual known for its strength and ultra low first gear, also called Grande Gear. Available in Bullnose trucks throughout the early 80s, including 1985 because it’s in my truck.

Now we have the SR-OD. It’s a four-speed with overdrive. It’s a lighter duty transmission. It was available in Bullnose trucks during the early 80s. It offered the overdrive gear for a little better fuel efficiency while on the highway. Now you’ve got the T170FT. It’s a four-speed with overdrive. It’s basically the evolution of the top loader. It’s available in the early 80s, and this transmission was another overdrive option designed for light duty trucks, and it offered a smoother drive at higher speeds. Now we move on to the ZF5, the S542, and the S547. Both are five-speed heavy duty manual transmissions. The S542 was introduced in 1987, with the 47 following later. Both are popular swaps for Bullnose trucks, offering your overdrive gear and improved durability over older four-speeds, especially in diesel applications. And that’s where I’m going, not the diesel part, but I’m putting the ZF5 in my build.

Now we’ve got the ever-popular Mazda M5OD, the five-speed. It was not stock in Bullnose trucks, but it’s very common in some of the following years. It’s a common swap for those looking for a five-speed manual in a Bullnose. It’s got improved shift quality and overdrive for highway cruising. It’s a great transmission, but be careful if you swap it in because it’s not really built for a high horsepower application, because you might blow it up. Now we move on to the automatic transmissions. We’ve got a C6, which is a three-speed heavy duty trans. Available throughout the Bullnose years, the C6 is a robust three-speed automatic known for handling big power and towing heavy loads without breaking a sweat. Now we move on to the C4 three-speed. It was a lighter duty three-speed automatic. The C4 was available in earlier Bullnose models, offering a simpler and more compact alternative to the C6. Now we’ve got the AOD, the four-speed. It was introduced in 1980, and the AOD is a four-speed automatic with overdrive, designed for better fuel economy without sacrificing performance. And now a popular swap in, the E4OD, which is a four-speed automatic with overdrive. It was introduced in 1989, so it’s not part of the stock Bullnose lineup, but it is a popular upgrade for Bullnose trucks, especially with the C6 or AOD because it offers a stronger option with overdrive and better highway performance. The E4OD is what I have in my donor vehicle for my 251 Windsor.

Moving on to carburetors. You’ve got the Motorcraft 2150. It’s a popular two-barrel carb used throughout the Bullnose years, known for its reliability and ease of tuning. You’ve got the Motorcraft 4180C, the four-barrel carburetor, often found in the 5.0-liter and 5.8-liter engines. It offers better performance than the 2150 with improved fuel delivery. You get the Karner YFA. We use mainly on the 300 inline 6. The Karner YFA is a one-barrel carburetor that’s simple and reliable, perfect for the torquey six-cylinder.

Now let’s move on to suspension and axle systems. Two-wheel drive Bullnose trucks all got the twin I-beam suspension. It’s durable and offers a smooth ride, but it can be tricky to align and it definitely has its quirks. The four-wheel drive equivalent of that, the twin traction beam suspension, offered similar durability with the added complexity of four-wheel drive components. Along with those, you’ve got the Dana 44, which is a common front axle in four-wheel drive Bullnose trucks. The Dana 44 is known for its strength and ease of service. You also have the heavier Dana 50, found in heavier-duty models. The Dana 50 front axle offers increased strength for those needing more capability in their four-wheel drive trucks. Moving to the rear, we’re going to start with the Ford 7.5-inch. This rear axle was common in lighter-duty Bullnose trucks and Broncos. It offered adequate strength for fairly light-duty applications. Moving on from there, you can move into the Ford 8.8-inch. It’s a popular rear axle option. The 8.8-inch offers a good balance of strength and weight, making it ideal for most applications. And then, we move up to the 9-inch. Available with earlier models, the 9-inch rear axle is a legend in the off-road and racing world, known for its toughness and aftermarket support. The Dana 60, it’s the go-to for heavy-duty rear axles. It’s perfect for towing and off-road use, offering unmatched strength in the Bullnose lineup. The Dana 70 was found in some heavy-duty trucks. The Dana 70 offers even more strength than the Dana 60, and it’s ideal for the most demanding tasks. Moving on to the Sterling 10.25-inch. It’s a heavy-duty rear axle found in three, four-ton and one-ton trucks.

So now for the fun part. Let’s talk about some of the more popular mods and upgrades that you can do to your Ford Bullnose. I’m going to start with the Crown Vic Swap. It’s a popular front suspension swap. The Crown Vic Swap lowers the truck and improves handling with modern suspension geometry. Basically, you take a Crown Vic and you put the front suspension in your truck. The Saginaw Power Steering Pump Swap. Those whiny power steering pumps are a pain in the ass. This swap replaces the stock Ford power steering pump with a Saginaw offering improved reliability, easier steering and less noise. Rear Disc Brake Conversion. Upgrading to rear disc brakes improves stopping power and reduces maintenance compared to drum brakes, making it a popular swap. Front Bench Seat Replacement. Swapping the stock bench seat for bucket seats or a more modern bench can improve comfort and interior aesthetics. Tilt Steering. I’d love to have tilt steering in my truck. Adding tilt steering to a non-tilt truck can improve driving comfort and make getting in and out a little easier. Adding air conditioning. Adding AC to a non-AC Bullnose can be a challenge, but it can dramatically improve your comfort, especially in hot climates. Me, I live in New Mexico, so I made sure to buy one with AC from the factory because that’s a tough swap. Headlight Upgrade. Pretty simple. Upgrading to modern headlights such as LED or HID improves nighttime visibility and safety over the stock steel beams. Just make sure that you upgrade your wiring harness when you do it. Altimeter Upgrade. Swapping to a higher output altimeter is a must for trucks running additional electrical accessories like lights, winches or upgraded sound systems. And finally, the Borgeson Steering Shaft. This upgrade replaces the stock steering shaft with a Borgeson unit, improving steering feel and reducing play, especially on older trucks.

All right guys, there you go. There’s all the engines, transmissions, carburetors, axles and other miscellaneous mods that you can do to your Bullnose to make it better. But listen, I’m not perfect, so if I missed something, drop something in the comments and let me know. Guys, I hope you learned something from this video, and if you did, give me a like, email, subscribe. I really appreciate it. Hey, head to my merch store, grab a cool hat. Thanks again for watching guys, and we will see you next time.