Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. It’s the day I’ve been waiting for since I bought this thing almost 5 years ago. Today, I’m starting to tear down this 351 Windsor engine, so buckle up, come along, and you’ll see what surprises I discover, both good and bad, from some shocking discoveries, oh, cut all these, to truly painful lessons, and even how much profit, yeah, profit, I’m making off this B. Boy, you don’t want to miss it. Let’s dig in.

Hello. So before we start, I’m going to put up what I paid for this ’95 F-150 chassis with the 351 Windsor and an E4OD transmission. I basically stole it from the guy for 500 bucks, so let’s put that on the screen and we’ll tally the score as we go. What you see is what I got, plus ECM and wiring harness, the steering column, steering wheel, and the gauge cluster. Now, I’ve already sold the gas tanks, the gauge cluster, and the steering wheel with column, so I’m well on my way to at least breaking even and getting the block for free, if nothing else. But I think I’ll do a lot better than that. Let’s see. By the way, I’m future commentary Ed, and I’ll be with you the rest of the way. Double dose.

The first thing I pulled off was the cruise control module, followed by the throttle cable. Both were connected to the throttle body linkage and right on top, so they’re easy to get to. And just like that, a quick $25. Cru. Oh yeah, I remember this part, so does my thumb. That’s going to hurt for a while. Try to take off one of those stubborn rain clamps with pliers. It wasn’t pretty, and there’s the pain I promised you. The brake fluid reservoir pretty much rotted away completely, so there was no way to drain it without getting brake fluid everywhere. I only got some, got more in my shoes. That’s what being out in the southwestern sun every day for 5 years will do to plastic.

So back when I got this donor chassis from a guy in Facebook Marketplace, he was planning on a build but decided to go another way. I suspect it might be because the frame is bent. He didn’t tell me that, but it doesn’t really matter since I’m not using the frame. He even trailered it over from the next town for free. It’s like an hour away, so nice guy. But you know, when you inherit someone else’s project, cleaning things up, there can be surprises. You’ll see what I mean later. I am so adept at everything, so amazingly amazing. Wait a minute, that, oh man, yeah, the bolts for the brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder were practically welded together with rust, so I ended up taking the whole assembly off. And guess what? It wasn’t worth anything. Straight to the trash it goes.

All right, what’s next? I’m not sure if they drained this fluid or not. Oh, it feels pretty empty. Day one may not seem like much progress, but hey, I’m a noob. Newbies got to learn somehow. At least I managed to make a quick $75 and get a bunch of hoses and bits off to start cleaning things up. What about that solenoid? The EGR vacuum regulator solenoid can be a bit more valuable, especially good work. Oh, and by the way, I use AI a lot. You might have already noticed from the images on some of my videos. It’s a huge help. It’s like having a mechanic but in my pocket. I can ask questions on the fly and get instant answers for part numbers or how to remove something. I know there are mixed opinions about AI, but I’m not going to apologize or make excuses for using it. It saves me a ton of time and energy. If you’re not at least checking it out for yourself, you’re kind of missing the boat. If you’re interested in how I’m using AI to help with this tear down and with my channel, let me know. I might just make a video about how I use it.

Finally getting the radiator off here. It’s hung off the front of this thing for 5 years. Do yourself a favor and always be sure to drain the radiator and cooling system before pulling one off. Foreshadowing. I’m planning on keeping it to use in my engine run stand later, so I won’t be selling it. But if I did, that’d be a quick 80 bucks. Little bit. By the way, I’m sorry you’re spending so much time watching my back in this video. I was more focused on working my way around the engine than keeping an eye on the camera. But don’t worry, I mean, that’s why future commentary Ed is here today, keeping you company. Ant hoses, not worth jack in this condition. Like I’m saying, those aren’t worth anything. As I go, I’m snapping pictures to check part numbers, find values, and decide what might be useful for my new build. Spoiler alert, there’s not much I want to use, so most of it’s either going in the trash or up for grabs on Marketplace.

This part is a DPF sensor, and I know that thanks to my AI friend. I also know it’s not worth much. Here I am taking off the alternator, a 3G. By the way, this one won’t fit my Bullnose since it’s side mount, not pivot mount, so up for sale it goes. That’s 40 bucks in my pocket. And hey, if you’ve got an older truck and haven’t done the 3G swap yet, what are you waiting for? I’ve got a great video on just how to do it. Trust me, it’s an easy mod that makes a huge difference. You should go check it out. Amazing, you have part number, but you probably don’t, Mr. Unidentified Bracket. Unidentified throttle body bracket thing. Sh, no part number. I’m guessing, I’m guessing the gasket is not worth jack. You’re right, past Ed, the gasket isn’t worth jack. Most of them aren’t. Oh, that’s dirty. Some, and off comes the throttle body. But even dirty as it is, cleaned up, it’ll probably net me around 65 bucks. So that’s day two in the can and another $85 in my pocket. If you’re keeping score, you notice I’m almost breaking even and I haven’t even talked about the transmission, which will be in the next video. Differential or wheels? Yet not too shabby, right?

Know what that is? It’s a vacuum reservoir or something. I don’t know what it is. That’s what it is. It’s a vacuum something. By the way, if any of you know what this hose is, let me know in the comments. I spent an hour searching for one and just came up empty. Just like that, I guess I ended up removing the entire bracket for the smog pump. Why? Well, because to take off just the pump, you have to pull the pulley off so you can get to the bolts. It’s easier just to take the whole bracket with the pump still attached. I can always separate them later or sell them as one unit. But for accounting sake, let’s break it down. Smog pump, 80 bucks. Bracket, 75. Now, I bet someone who knows what they’re doing could have stripped this thing in a short afternoon. For me, it took 4 days spread over 3 weeks to get to the point at the end of this video. But hey, I mean, that’s how you learn, right? I mean, at least that’s how I do it.

The AC compressor comes off pretty easy, provided it’s already drained. And just a quick reminder, if it’s not empty, make sure you handle it safely and legally. Uh, mine was already drained, so it was an easy removal. You have to drain it. You have to make sure that you don’t discharge it into the air. Well, that’s another 80 bucks added to the total. Next up, the transmission cooler. That came off quickly too, and I’m hoping to get around 20 bucks for it. Oh, and then there’s that. Not sure what size that is. Oh, it’s that size. Ooh, it’s that size. Now can I actually get this in here? Probably not. Oh, maybe. Hey, look at that. I decided to just cut the power steering pump lines here since it was a pain to remove. The lines aren’t worth anything in this condition anyway. I did gain a valuable lesson in environmentalism, though. Come on, you there, just go in there. Whoops, okay, okay. I thought it was interesting how the power steering lines loop around the front of the chassis here. It’s for cooling, like a poor man’s radiator. I didn’t know that until I worked on this thing. So that’s day three and a cool 255 bucks.

Day four, I decided to get the radiator fan out of the way. I even rented the special tool from the parts store, only to find out I didn’t need it. Turns out the fan had four regular bolts. A socket and strap wrench took care of the job with the clutch included. That’s another 80 bucks. Power steering pump, same story as the smog pump. You have to remove the pulley to get it off the bracket, so I took the whole thing off instead. Now, I could use this pump for my new build, but I’m probably going to go with a saginaw pump, maybe even like a nice chrome one. So this old one is going to go in the sale bin. That’s another 65 bucks for the pump and 50 for the bracket.

I discovered that the intake has one star bolt in the middle on the inside. I’m not sure why they would do that, but clearly, I’m not an engineer. I’m sure there’s a good reason for that. I don’t know what it is. Are you joking? Not only is it a different bolt, but it’s tucked down under and between the intake runners, so the star bit I had originally wouldn’t fit. The base was too big around. Fortunately, like any man card-holding member of society, I never throw away a tool, so all I had to do was search long enough to find what I needed. Please be the right size, kind of small. Please be the right size. There we go, and off comes the upper intake. That right there is a big chunk of aluminum and a big chunk to the kitty.

Remember when I mentioned inheriting someone else’s project? It’s moments like this that remind me that you have to take the bad with the good. Oh, he cut all these. He just cut them all, so these are garbage because he just cut them. Like, he just cut them. I didn’t even realize he did that, but yeah, whoever had it before me just cut them. Just straight up snip, snip, snip, snip, motherfucker. Oh, bastard. My guess is that he tried to get it off reasonably and then probably couldn’t, and then so he just decided, you know, fuck it, I’ll replace all that anyway. But this harness is garbage because you could tell all the wires. So unfortunate. The fuel rails might be worth something, but the harness is garbage. HOH. I thought maybe I dropped that into the unit tank. Doesn’t really matter. I’m taking it all apart anyway, but that would just mean I had to take it apart. I wouldn’t have any choice anymore. Let’s go put garbage in the garbage. This harness would have been around 80 bucks, but the previous owner cut the wires to the injectors. Still, just look at that total down there. I cannot complain. And that’s as far as I got on my 4-day adventure. Let’s head out and take a closer look.

Okay, so here’s how it sits right now. Fuel rails are still on there. I’ll probably go ahead and pull the engine off those. You see, I’ve got my intake holes covered up here. I still got the transmission to get off there and all that kind of stuff. I still got to drain the oil and the fluid. I’ll do that probably before I move it. Obviously, I’ve got this issue with this tire here. It’s pretty much roached. I’m not sure if I can roll it like that or not. I don’t have to go very far, just up out this gate and over to the garage over there. So I got a plan for that. See, yeah, like I said before, I’m leaving the exhaust manifolds on here because I just don’t want those big open gaping holes out into the environment here. I’ll take that stuff off once I pull the engine. I don’t quite yet have a plan for how I’m going to pull the engine in the… I don’t have a tranny hoist, but I do have some jacks and, you know, a lot of wood, so I think I can figure that out. Backyard mechanic special coming at you.

So that’s where we are now. But what’s the plan? Well, this video is just a start of a whole series covering the complete rebuild of this 351 Windsor from pulling it out of the chassis all the way to running it down the strip. My goal is to strip this engine down to the block, take it to the machine shop, build it back up, drop it in the truck, and then take it out for a quarter-mile run. And I’m going to cover every single step of the way for guys like me who don’t really know what they’re doing but they’re ready to learn. Next up is getting that chassis into the garage, and since it can’t move under its own power and it’s heavy as hell even without the body, you’re probably wondering how I’m going to do that. Don’t worry, I got a plan. Stay tuned for that.

Once the chassis is in, I’ll be pulling the engine off and we’ll tear it down together. We’ll go through it with a fine-tooth comb, looking at how the engine’s been treated, what signs to look for during a rebuild, and everything else you need to know when tackling a project like this. Once that’s done, we’ll get the block to the machine shop and talk to the machinist. We’ll cover all the services they offer, what they cost, what they’re for, and why you might need them or not, depending on your build. We’ll go through the whole nine yards. Then we paint the block. After that, I’ll walk you through the entire engine build. We’ll talk about component choices, camshaft, valves, lifters, rotating assembly, everything. I’ll explain why you choose certain parts, how they work together, and how to build the right kind of engine for your needs, whether it’s high torque, high horsepower, street, or strip. And I’ll share why I’m making the choices I am for this build.

Hopefully, by the end of the series, you’ll be able to grab my parts list and replicate my engine build from scratch, even if you’re not a mechanic. My goal is to be that detailed with you guys, especially during the build process. Look, I’ve done my homework. I’ve bought books, I read up on everything, I’ve watched dozens, probably hundreds of YouTube videos, but there’s still a lot that I don’t know. So I hope to bring in a pro to help fill those gaps. When you’re building an engine, missing even one small detail can come back to haunt you later, so I’ll make sure we go over everything step by step. That way, we can learn together. And if I succeed, great. But if I fail, well, you know, that’s great content too because it’ll help you avoid making the same mistakes.

Once it’s built, I want to get this engine on a stand and fire it up first. Then I’ll pull the 3006 out and I’ll go through that process with you so we can talk about what parts need to keep and what to replace, cleaning and painting the engine bay, decluttering and cleaning up the electrical system. Then we can drop the Windsor into the truck, get everything hooked up, and take it out for a test drive. And I want you to be there with me for every step. The ultimate goal? Well, the last series of this episode will hopefully be me taking that truck to the strip and getting a quarter-mile time. That’s where I want to end this series, but not the channel. There’s lots more to do than just the engine. Now, it’s going to take a while. I’m a busy guy. I got a family and a job and a lot of other stuff going on. But my hope is to create a series of videos that you can sit back, watch, and binge like a Netflix series. And by the time you’re done, you’ll know exactly how to take an engine off the chassis, rebuild it, and get it running.

Guys, if you’re excited to follow along with me, here’s the ask: like and subscribe, hit the bell for notifications, and keep up with this build. And if you want to support the channel and help me buy some cool performance parts, grab yourself a hat from the merch store. Thanks again so much for watching, guys. I hope you join me for this adventure, and we will see you next time around the edges. But she’s doing fine, take her away, getting things to shine. She’s consider. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We’ll see you next time.

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And today, I am underneath the Bullnose to talk to you about this. This is the Ford 8.8 rear axle. It’s what I have in my truck, and if you guys got a Bullnose, it’s a pretty good chance it’s what you guys got in yours too. Ford put a bunch of these in Bullnose trucks and Broncos throughout the ’80s. So, uh, it’s a pretty good axle. If you’re going to put a whole bunch of horsepower or do a whole lot of torque, it may not be enough, but for the most part, you should be okay. I think I’m going to keep mine, believe it or not. So let’s talk about it.

Hello. So the Ford 8.8, let’s start with a quick overview. The 8.8-inch axle was introduced back in 1983. Ford needed something to replace their older 9-inch axle, and the 8.8 quickly became the go-to for light-duty trucks, SUVs, and even performance cars like the Mustang. But what makes it special? It was used a lot. As a matter of fact, both my 1985 and my 351 Windsor donor vehicle have it installed from the factory. The 8.8-inch axle offers a great mix of strength and cost, making it an axle that Ford put a lot of trust in from the mid-late ’80s and even into the 2000s.

Now you might wonder why Ford moved away from the 9-inch. The 9-inch is legendary, no doubt, but it was also more expensive to produce. The 8.8-inch was engineered to be more cost-effective while still offering plenty of strength for most applications, especially in light trucks and performance vehicles. Now, if you’re rocking a Bullnose Ford from ’80 to ’86, this axle might already be in your truck. Starting at ’83, the 8.8-inch began replacing the 9-inch in some F150s and Broncos, especially in four-wheel-drive models and those with bigger engines. But not always, because mine’s a 300 and it’s got an 8.8. So it could be in a lot of stuff.

Uh, it didn’t stop there. The 8.8 found its way into all sorts of Ford vehicles, from the Mustang to the Explorer and even into the Ranger. Its strength and adaptability made it a hit in the performance and off-road scenes too. Here’s a quick look at all the vehicles that came equipped with the 8.8-inch axle from the factory. As you can see, the 8.8 axle wasn’t just for trucks; it found its way into a variety of Ford lineups. So whether you’re working on a Mustang, an Explorer, or a Bronco, there’s a pretty good chance this axle could be part of your build.

All right, let’s get a bit more technical. The Ford 8.8-inch is a solid rear axle using a single housing to enclose the differential and the axle shafts. The axle tube has a diameter of 3 inches, and in later models, especially from the mid-’90s onward, Ford used heat-treated 1541H steel for added strength. That said, earlier models likely used lower-grade carbon steel, which worked just fine for lighter-duty needs. Now here’s the kicker: there’s no real way to know for sure what material your axle is made from since Ford didn’t mark or document it clearly. But honestly, for most builds, that’s not something you need to worry about.

If you’re building a high-horsepower truck, doing extreme off-roading, or towing heavy, you might care more about the material, but that’s where aftermarket axles come into play. Most folks will find the stock axles more than up to the job, especially if you’ve got 31-spline shafts. And if you’re looking for maximum strength, aftermarket 31-spline shafts, often made from chromoly, are always an option. Another big plus for this axle is the variety of available gear ratios, ranging from 2.73 to 1 for better fuel efficiency to 5.13 to 1 for those who need serious low-end torque. For most folks, ratios like 3.55 to 1, 3.73 to 1, and 4.10 to 1 hit that sweet spot for both street and off-road use. You can tailor your setup to your driving needs, whether that’s quicker acceleration or better fuel economy.

So how does the Ford 8.8 compare to some of the other axles folks might be thinking about? Let’s break it down real quick. We’ll start with the little 7.5-inch axle. This actually was commonly found in earlier F-150s and Rangers. It’s fine for light-duty work, but its 26-spline axle shafts and smaller 7.5-inch ring gear mean it can only handle around 250-300 lb-ft of torque at most. It’s lighter than the 8.8, but it lacks the strength, making the 8.8 a solid upgrade if you’re putting down more power or doing some serious off-roading.

Now, the 9-inch axle. This is the heavy hitter known for its strength and modular design. With a 9-inch ring gear and larger components, it can handle over 4,000 lb-ft of torque, making it great for high-horsepower or quirky applications like towing. However, it’s heavier and more expensive to build and maintain. The 8.8 could still handle plenty of power, up to around 3,500 lb-ft with 31-spline shafts, but it’s lighter, more cost-effective, and it’s a better option for most builds.

The Dana 44 and the Dana 60. The Dana 44, often found in the front of four-wheel-drive trucks, is solid for moderate off-roading but doesn’t quite match the rear 8.8 strength for towing or higher torque builds. The Dana 60 is a different story. This axle can handle well over 5,000 foot-pounds of torque, making it ideal for extreme off-road or heavy-duty use. However, it’s much heavier and, again, it’s probably overkill unless you’re doing serious towing or crawling.

So, installing a 8.8 in your Bullnose isn’t too tricky because it came like that from the factory, but there’s a few things to keep in mind. First off, make sure your new axle has the correct pinion angle for your truck’s suspension setup. Getting this angle wrong can lead to vibration issues that are a pain to deal with. If you’re moving from a smaller axle like the 7.5 to the 8.8, you may need to make some modifications to fit the larger axle tubes and ring gear. For example, the axle shafts are thicker and stronger, so you want to double-check your clearance. Additionally, if you decide to swap from drum to disc brakes, that’ll require new brake lines and compatible calipers if you’re doing that, so be prepared for some extra work there.

Also, keep an eye on weight distribution, especially if you’re doing any performance mods like lowering or lifting your truck. Adjusting the pinion angle and verifying your suspension geometry are crucial steps for ensuring smooth performance and avoiding wear on your driveline. Double-check your torque specs on the axle nuts and make sure everything’s torqued down to prevent any looseness down the road.

The Ford 8.8-inch axle is a popular candidate for upgrades, especially for those looking to handle more power or do more serious off-roading. Upgrading your axle shaft to 31-spline versions is a power move, especially if you’re pushing more horses or plan to pull some. The 31-spline shafts offer a substantial increase in strength over the stock 28-spline versions, providing extra peace of mind when hauling or driving like a maniac, if you’re into that.

Another modification to consider is reinforcing the axle housing with an axle truss, especially if you’re taking your truck off-road. The truss adds rigidity to the axle and helps prevent bending or flexing.

So, to wrap it all up, the 8.8-inch axle wasn’t just a random replacement for the 9-inch. It was part of Ford’s effort to create a more cost-effective yet durable solution for their lineup of light-duty trucks, SUVs, and performance cars. Ford knew the 9-inch was a beast, but they needed something that could handle a wide range of applications without driving up production costs. The 8.8 delivered that balance perfectly, offering a strong, reliable axle that could handle towing, off-roading, and performance builds without breaking the bank.

And here’s a fun fact: while the 8.8-inch axle started out in trucks and Mustangs, it’s now a popular swap option for all kinds of vehicles, including hot rods and even some off-brand 4x4s. That’s how versatile and well-regarded this axle has become. So whether you’re upgrading or just keeping your Bullnose running strong, the 8.8 has proven itself a go-to axle that Ford got right pretty much from the start.

As for me, I’ve already got an 8.8 in my S-150. Now, it’s probably the 28-spline version. I haven’t actually taken off the, uh, the pumpkin housing and checked, but when I do that, I suspect I’m going to find a 28-spline version. Now I’m looking at putting about 4 to 500 horsepower through that truck eventually, so I may be a candidate for upgrading to a 31-spline, but I don’t think I need to go quite as far as the 9-inch.

All right, guys, well, there you go. Everything that I know, or pretend to know, about the Ford 8.8 rear axle, just like I’ve got right here in the back of the donor, obviously sent down from God. As you can see, the rays coming down on this beautiful roached-out chassis. Guys, if you learned something, if, uh, you like this kind of content, if I did a good job, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that. If you want to support the channel, head to the merch store, get yourself a cool hat, t-shirt, bumper sticker, that kind of stuff. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. And as always, always thanks again for watching, guys. We will see you next time.

Oh hello! The Ford 302 V8, or as many folks know it, the 5 Miler, is nothing short of legendary in the engine world. It first showed up in the late 1960s and has since powered everything from classic Mustangs to the tough Bullnose Ford trucks. Known for its reliability, solid performance, and the vast aftermarket support it enjoys, the 302 is a favorite among engine builders and car enthusiasts alike. Whether you’re restoring an old Ford or trying to squeeze a bit more horsepower out of your Bullnose, getting to know the 302 inside and out is an important part of servicing it or swapping it in. In this guide, I’ll walk you through its history, specs, performance, and some of the most popular mods. By the end, you’ll understand why this engine has earned such a loyal following.

The Ford 302 V8 made its debut in 1968, bridging the gap between Ford’s smaller 289 and larger 351 Windsor engines. But the 302 certainly wasn’t just a one-trick pony; it quickly became a go-to for a wide range of Ford vehicles over the decades, from the Ford Galaxy to, of course, the Mustang, to the F-series, Bronco, and Explorer. I’ve created this chart which shows exactly where this engine found a home, listing every vehicle, the years it was used, and whether it was a roller block or not. This way, you can know where to go if you want to pull it from a yard or classified post like Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist.

Starting in 1969, the 302 was a popular choice for performance models like the Mustang. But as emission regulations tightened in the 1970s, the engine had to adapt, often at the cost of power. In the 1980s, Ford revitalized the 302 with a high output, or HO version, starting in the Mustang GT. This version featured upgrades like a roller camshaft and higher compression, boosting performance significantly. By 1986, the switch to electronic fuel injection, or EFI, marked a new era of efficiency and reliability. The 1990s brought further enhancements with the introduction of the GT40 heads, particularly in the Ford Explorer. These heads offered improved airflow, making the 302 even more popular among performance enthusiasts. Even after its official retirement in 2001, the 302’s legacy lives on in countless classic cars and trucks.

Over the years, the 302 saw several important updates, including changes to the valve train and rear main seal. This chart I put together takes a closer look at how these updates rolled out year by year, so you can get an idea of which type of engine you might find in a vehicle of that year. The Ford 302 is a compact, lightweight V8 that’s ideal for restoration projects and high-performance builds. Let’s go over the nuts and bolts. First off, the 302 is a 90° overhead valve train V8 with a displacement of, guess it, 302 cubic inches, or 5.0 L. It’s got a 4-inch bore and a 3-inch stroke, which gives it that well-balanced performance. Depending on the year, the compression ratio ranges from 8.0 to 1 to 9.5 to 1. Now, despite being a V8, the 302 is relatively light; it weighs around 460 to 475 lbs with iron heads and intake. The engine block is made of cast iron, which adds durability. Most 302s have a cast iron crankshaft too, though some high-performance models came with Ford steel crankshafts, which are stronger and more durable.

When it comes to firing order, the early 302s were set up with 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, but in 1982, when Ford introduced the high output, or HO version, they switched it up to 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 for better performance. Another key update happened at the end of 1982, transitioning into the 1983 model year, where Ford moved from a two-piece rear main seal to a one-piece design. This change really improved reliability by cutting down those pesky oil leaks that were common with the older setup. It’s a big deal if you’re rebuilding or sourcing parts for these engines.

Now let’s talk power. Early 302s put out anywhere between 140 and 200 horsepower, depending on the year and model. Though with the HO version of the 1980s, you can see it up to 225 horsepower, with torque ranging from around 240 to 300 lb-ft. Size-wise, the 302 measures about 27 inches long, 29 inches wide, and 27 inches high. These compact dimensions made it a popular choice for a variety of vehicles, from sports cars to trucks. That’s one of the reasons why the 302 is such a great option for swapping into classic vehicles. The 302 holds about 5 quarts of oil, including the filter, and it typically runs best with SAE 10W-30 oil, depending on your climate and specific needs.

The Ford 302 is known for packing a solid punch in a relatively small package. One of its biggest strengths is its broad power band, delivering torque early and keeping it across a wide range of RPMs. This translates to good acceleration and towing capability, especially in heavier vehicles like trucks. What really makes the 302 shine, though, is its tuning potential. With a massive aftermarket, you can easily upgrade this engine to meet almost any performance goal, whether you want a streetable 350 horsepower build or a high-revving 500-plus horsepower beast. The 302 can deliver with the right modifications.

Now, when working on a classic Ford project, you might encounter various small block V8 engines such as the 302, 351 Windsor, 289, and 260. Although they share a common lineage, each engine has its own strengths. The 302, however, stands out for its versatility and balance of power and size. The 302’s 302 cubic inches of displacement strike a balance between the smaller 289 and 260 engines and the larger 351 Windsor. With the right parts, the 302 can safely handle up to around 450 to 500 horsepower before risking damage to the stock block. Pushing beyond this range increases the risk of cracking or other failures, making the 302 ideal for moderate to high-performance builds where durability is key.

On the other hand, the 351 Windsor, with its larger displacement, offers greater torque and power potential right off the gate. It’s a better choice for those seeking maximum horsepower with fewer modifications, as it can handle more power without compromising reliability. The smaller 289 and 260 engines are lighter and provide a good fit for certain builds, but they don’t offer the same power potential as the 302 or 351 Windsor. Identifying these engines is essential, especially when sourcing parts. The 302 and 289 are close in size, but the 289 typically has smaller valve heads and a different firing order, except for the HO. The 351 Windsor is easily distinguishable by its taller deck height, which makes it physically larger. This increased height raises the intake manifold and creates a wider gap between the cylinder heads. Additionally, the distributor on the 351 Windsor sits higher due to the deck height. On the 302, this makes the distributor mount almost flush at the top of the block. Both the 351 Windsor and the HO version of the 302 share the same firing order, 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

Among these small block V8s, the 302 is probably the best blend of performance, size, and aftermarket support. It’s light enough to improve handling in smaller vehicles like Mustangs, yet strong enough to deliver reliable power in trucks and muscle cars. Its popularity ensures a wide range of available parts and tuning expertise, making the 302 a common choice for enthusiasts. By understanding these differences, you can select the engine that best matches your project performance goals and needs. Like me, I’m choosing 351 because, you know, there’s no replacement for displacement.

The Ford 302 is a tough engine, but like any machine, it has its quirks. Keeping an eye out for a few common issues can save you a lot of trouble down the road. One thing you want to watch out for is oil leaks. These are pretty common, especially around the valve covers, rear main seal, and oil pan gasket. Regular checks and replacing gaskets when needed can help keep these leaks in check. And if you rebuild a worn engine, it’s worth investing in high-quality gaskets to prevent future problems. Another thing to keep an eye on is the timing chain. Over time, these can stretch, which can lead to poor performance or even cause engine damage. Upgrading to a double roller timing chain during a rebuild is a solid move; it improves your reliability and can give you some peace of mind.

Overheating is another issue that some 302s struggle with, particularly in older vehicles where the radiator or water pump might be past its prime. Upgrading to an aluminum radiator and a high-flow water pump can make a big difference in keeping your engine cool, even when you’re pushing it hard. And let’s not forget about the ignition system. Early 302s use points ignition systems, which can become unreliable as they age. Switching to an electronic ignition system, like Ford DuraSpark or an aftermarket setup, is a great way to boost reliability and make sure your engine fires up every time. By tackling these common issues early, it’ll keep your Ford 302 running strong and avoid those annoying surprises that can pop up when you least expect them.

As I’ve said before, the Ford 302 Windsor is a favorite among engine builders because of its versatility and the wide range of aftermarket parts available. Whether you’re restoring a classic or pushing the limits with a high-performance build, the 302 offers plenty of ways to get more power. One popular upgrade is installing a stroker kit, which increases the engine’s displacement to 347 cubic inches. This involves lengthening the piston stroke, allowing more air and fuel into the engine. With the right parts and professional machining, a 347 stroker can easily push out over 400 horsepower, making it a popular option for those looking to significantly boost performance.

Another key area to consider is the cylinder heads. The stock heads, especially on early 302 models, tend to be restricted, limiting airflow and consequently power. Upgraded aftermarket aluminum heads from brands like Edelbrock, AFR, or Trick Flow can make a huge difference, adding anywhere from 50 to 100 horsepower. Pair those heads with a performance camshaft and intake manifold, and you’ll see even greater gains. Speaking of camshafts, cams play a critical role in how your engine breathes and where it makes power. Later 302s, particularly the HO versions, came with roller camshafts, which are more efficient and can support more aggressive cam profiles. A well-chosen camshaft might add 20 to 40 horsepower on its own, and when combined with other upgrades like better heads and an intake, the results can be pretty impressive.

Now let’s talk about induction. Whether you stick with a carburetor or go for fuel injection, how you manage air and fuel is crucial. The 302 works well with a variety of setups, from a mild 600 CFM four-barrel carb for street use to more aggressive configurations for racing. Upgrading the intake manifold improves airflow, especially when matched with a larger carburetor. If you’re looking for better fuel economy, reliability, and drivability, converting to electronic fuel injection is a solid move. EFI tuning, in particular, can unlock significant gains, especially when paired with other mods like a performance camshaft. And of course, you can’t forget about the exhaust system. A high-flow setup is essential for reducing back pressure and letting the engine breathe freely. Long tube headers usually offer the best performance gains, especially in the mid to high RPM range, though they can be trickier to fit in some vehicles. Shorty headers are easier to install and still provide good improvements over stock manifolds. And if you really want to optimize performance, consider upgrading to a true dual exhaust system with an X-pipe or H-pipe, which helps balance exhaust pulses and reduces back pressure even further.

Finally, all the upgrades in the world won’t reach their full potential without proper tuning. A dyno tune ensures that your air-fuel mixture, ignition timing, and other parameters are dialed in just right for maximum performance. Whether you’re aiming for a street-friendly setup with good drivability and fuel efficiency or a track-focused build where power and responsiveness are everything, getting your 302 tuned properly can make all the difference.

The 302’s compact size and lightweight make it a solid choice for all sorts of engine swaps. It’s a favorite for Fox body Mustangs, where it drops in easily, and there’s a ton of parts and tuning out there to make the process smooth. That’s a big plus if you’re looking to boost performance without too much hassle. But the 302 isn’t just for Mustangs; it’s also a great fit for older Fords like the Falcon or Fairlane, especially if you’re looking to replace a smaller or underpowered engine. The swap gives these classics a real kick without straying too far from what they originally were. If you’re building a hot rod or something custom, the 302’s size really works in your favor. It can squeeze into tight spots where a bigger engine might be a pain, letting you focus more on performance instead of wrestling with fitment issues.

Now, if you’re planning a swap, there are a few things to keep in mind. First off, motor mounts. Depending on your vehicle, you might need custom mounts to get everything lined up right. You’ll also need to check oil pan clearance; the 302’s pan has to clear the crossmember, so you might end up needing a different sump setup depending on what you’re working with. And don’t forget about the transmission. The 302 works with a lot of Ford transmissions, but you’ll need to make sure the bell housing, clutch, and shifter line up properly with your vehicle setup. Get that sorted, and the 302 will give you plenty of reliable power.

Now when it comes to pairing the 302 with the transmission, there are no shortage of options. Over the years, the 302 has been matched with a variety of both manual and automatic transmissions, so you’ve got plenty to choose from depending on your build and driving style. If you’re into manual transmissions, one of the older classics is the Ford Toploader four-speed. It’s known for its durability and smooth shifts, making it a solid choice for muscle cars and some trucks between the ’60s and ’70s. Another popular option is the T5 five-speed manual, which you find in Mustangs from 1983 to 1995. The T5 adds an overdrive gear, which is great if you’re looking to balance performance with a bit of fuel efficiency. For those pushing higher horsepower, the Tremec TKO five-speed is a top aftermarket choice that can handle a lot of torque. Then there’s the Borg Warner T18 and T19 four speeds. These are more rugged, often found in trucks and off-road vehicles where their toughness really shines. The NP435 is another truck-oriented option, well-known for its low first gear and reliability, especially in heavier-duty setups. In the later years, the ZF S542 and S547 five-speeds show up in Ford trucks from the late ’80s through the ’90s. These transmissions are built to handle serious torque, making them ideal for heavy-duty applications. And for a lighter-duty setup, you’ve got the Mazda M5OD five-speed manual overdrive, which is common in F-150s, Rangers, and Explorers, though it’s not ideal if you’re planning to push a lot of torque without some modifications.

On the automatic side, the Ford C4 three-speed is a well-known option, especially in lighter cars and trucks from the ’60s through the early ’80s. It’s reliable for street builds and light performance setups. If you need something stronger, the Ford C6 three-speed is a heavy-duty transmission. It’s often paired with the 302 in trucks and larger vehicles, known for its ability to handle higher torque. In the mid-1980s, Ford introduced the AOD four-speed automatic with overdrive. This one is a good pick if you’re looking to improve fuel efficiency at highway speeds, but you might need some modifications to fit it into an older 302 block. Whether you’re aiming for a classic build, a high-performance setup, or something in between, there is a transmission that’ll work well with your 302.

Now, I know I sound like a broken record, but it bears repeating: one of the biggest advantages of the Ford 302 is the sheer amount of aftermarket support it has. Because this engine is so popular, parts are easy to find and generally affordable, which makes it one of the most accessible V8s to build or modify. If you’re looking to replace an existing 302 or start a new build, you’ve got plenty of options. Rebuilt engines are all over the place, often with warranties included. These are usually built to stock specs but can come with mild upgrades for better performance and reliability. Then there are crate engines, which might be pricier but are ready to install right out of the box. Companies like Ford Performance offer everything from stock replacements to high-performance builds, so you can pretty much pick the level of power you want. And when it comes to parts, the aftermarket for the 302 is huge. Brands like Edelbrock, Trick Flow, AFR, and Holley offer everything from cylinder heads to intake manifolds, and you can even get complete top-end kits. Whether you’re just looking for a slight bump in power or planning a full-blown race build, the parts are out there, and you don’t have to wait long to get them. And cost-wise, the 302 is one of the most affordable V8s to work on. The wide availability of parts keeps prices down, and the performance per dollar is hard to beat. In short, if you’re looking to build or restore a classic V8, the Ford 302 is a solid choice. With a combination of affordability, performance potential, and ease of finding parts, it’s no wonder this engine remains a favorite among enthusiasts.

The 302 made a huge impact on the automotive world, quickly becoming a cornerstone of Ford’s performance lineup. Its role in the Mustang, especially in models like the Boss 302 and Mustang GT, helped define the muscle car era. And when it powered the Fox body Mustang through the ’80s and ’90s, it stayed at the forefront of American performance culture, showing just how easily this engine could be modified for more power. And even though the 302 officially retired in 2001, it’s far from forgotten. It’s still a favorite among builders, racers, and restorers, thanks to its perfect balance of size, weight, and power. You’ll find it in everything from classic resto mods to drag racers. The 302 wasn’t just a hit in the Mustang, though; it powered some of Ford’s most iconic vehicles, like the F-series trucks. Each role in these bestsellers helped cement the 302’s reputation as a versatile, dependable engine. In short, the Ford 302 isn’t just an engine; it’s a legend. With over 50 years of history behind it, the 302 has proven itself time and again, whether on the street, the track, or off-road. Whether you’re building a street cruiser, a drag racer, or restoring a classic truck, the 302 gives you a solid foundation with endless possibilities. And with all the parts and support still available today, there’s never been a better time to build your perfect 302.

Well, that’s it, guys! Everything I know, or pretend to know, about the Ford 302 5.0 L engine. You know, these things are everywhere. Ford made at least 10 million; some estimates put it as high as 20 million units of these over their entire production run. So if you want, go get you one. If you’re looking for which vehicles they came in, so you know how to pull one, make sure you reference the chart that I put earlier in the video. That’ll tell you all the vehicles and the years that you can find them in. So I don’t know what else to say that hasn’t already been said about this amazing engine, other than maybe legendary, but I’ve said that a few times: legendary. Guys, if you like this kind of content, if you found something interesting in this video, if you learned something new, give me a like, give me a subscribe. It really helps me out and lets me know that this is the kind of content that you guys want to see so I can make more of it. If you really want to support the channel, head over to my merch store. You get some really cool stuff. I made some hats, t-shirts, bumper stickers, and stickers just for the 302 and for this video. So if you guys want to show your support for the channel or you want to show your love for the legendary Ford 302 5.0 L engine, go grab you some stuff. It’s really cool. So if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. You know, when I first got my Bullnose and started looking around at some of the modifications I might want to do to it, there are so many options out there that I wasn’t even sure how to begin wrapping my head around them all. You’ve got all kinds of different engine options, transmission options, axle options, modification options. It can get really overwhelming. So I think what I’d like to do today is sort of a 50,000 foot view lightning round of all the different engines and transmissions that either came with a Bullnose or can be easily swapped into a Bullnose to give you guys an idea of what some of the options are out there for your build. I’ll also talk about some of the axles, some of the other components, and some of the more common modifications that people make to Bullnose trucks to, uh, you know, make them better. So stay tuned and we’re going to do it.

All right, we’re going to start with engines in no particular order. Let’s start with the Ford 300 inline six or four part nine meter. This bulletproof straight six was available from 1980 to 1986. Known for its low end torque and durability, it’s a workhorse engine, perfect for heavy duty use, and it’s what I have in my truck right now. Then you’ve got the Ford 3.8 liter Essex V6. It was only available in 1982. The 3.8 liter Essex V6 is a compact engine with moderate power typically found in the F100. It’s not as popular as the other options just because it doesn’t really have that much oomph. Next, you’ve got the Ford 255 V8 4.2 liter. It was offered from 1980 to 1982. This small V8 was aimed at better fuel economy, but it’s often considered underpowered compared to the other V8s. Now we’ve got the Ford 289 V8 4.7 liter. While not originally stocked in Bullnose trucks, 289 is a popular swap for those running a piece of Ford’s performance heritage in their build. And now we start getting into the bigger boys. This is the Ford 302 Windsor V8 5.0 liter. It’s a mainstay from 1980 to 1986. 302 Windsor is well loved for its balance of power, reliability, and widespread parts availability. You can find 302s everywhere in all kinds of vehicles. They’re really easy to get a hold of. And next we’ve got my personal favorite, the Ford 351 Windsor V8 5.8 liter. It was also available throughout the Bullnose years. And the 351 Windsor offers more torque and horsepower than the 302, making it a popular choice for towing and heavy duty tasks. It’s also the choice for my build in my truck.

Now we’ve got the Ford 351M or modified, the V8 5.8 liter. This engine was available from 1980 to 1982, mostly in trucks and heavy duty applications. It’s essentially a truck-tuned version of the 351 Cleveland. And that brings us to the Ford 351 Cleveland 5.8 liter. And this one didn’t come stock in Bullnose trucks, but it is a popular swap for those seeking high RPM power. The Cleveland’s large port heads make it a favorite for performance builds. It’s basically a performance 5.8 liter. Now we’re getting even bigger. Ford 400 V8 6.6 liter. It was available in the early Bullnose years. The 400 is similar to the 351M, but it’s got a longer stroke, so it offers more torque for heavy duty needs. And now we’ve got the big boy, the Ford 460 V8 7.5 liter. This big block 460 was available in Bullnose trucks from 1980 to 1986, typically the F250s and 350s. It offered massive torque and power, making it ideal for towing and heavy hauling. It’s also used for huge performance builds.

Now let’s move on to a couple of diesel engines. You’ve got the 6.9 liter IDI V8 diesel. It was introduced in 1983, and this international harvester diesel engine is known for its durability and efficiency. It offers serious pulling power for diesel enthusiasts. And then a step up from that is the 7.3 liter IDI V8 diesel. It was introduced in 1988, so it was not in stock Bullnose’s, but it is a popular swap for Bullnose trucks because it provides more displacement and power from the 6.9 liter with similar reliability. There you go. There’s the engines.

All right, moving on to transmissions. I’m going to start with a bit of a tease. That’s the BorgWarner tease, beginning with the T18. It’s a four-speed. It’s a heavy duty manual transmission available from 1980 to 1986. The T18 is known for its durability and low first gear, perfect for off-roading or heavy loads. Next is the BorgWarner T19. It’s also a four-speed, but it’s synchronized. It’s available in the same years as the T18, and the T19 offers synchronized gears, makes it a bit smoother in operation while retaining the T18’s toughness. Now we’ll move on to the new process NP435 four-speed. It’s another heavy duty four-speed manual known for its strength and ultra low first gear, also called Grande Gear. Available in Bullnose trucks throughout the early 80s, including 1985 because it’s in my truck.

Now we have the SR-OD. It’s a four-speed with overdrive. It’s a lighter duty transmission. It was available in Bullnose trucks during the early 80s. It offered the overdrive gear for a little better fuel efficiency while on the highway. Now you’ve got the T170FT. It’s a four-speed with overdrive. It’s basically the evolution of the top loader. It’s available in the early 80s, and this transmission was another overdrive option designed for light duty trucks, and it offered a smoother drive at higher speeds. Now we move on to the ZF5, the S542, and the S547. Both are five-speed heavy duty manual transmissions. The S542 was introduced in 1987, with the 47 following later. Both are popular swaps for Bullnose trucks, offering your overdrive gear and improved durability over older four-speeds, especially in diesel applications. And that’s where I’m going, not the diesel part, but I’m putting the ZF5 in my build.

Now we’ve got the ever-popular Mazda M5OD, the five-speed. It was not stock in Bullnose trucks, but it’s very common in some of the following years. It’s a common swap for those looking for a five-speed manual in a Bullnose. It’s got improved shift quality and overdrive for highway cruising. It’s a great transmission, but be careful if you swap it in because it’s not really built for a high horsepower application, because you might blow it up. Now we move on to the automatic transmissions. We’ve got a C6, which is a three-speed heavy duty trans. Available throughout the Bullnose years, the C6 is a robust three-speed automatic known for handling big power and towing heavy loads without breaking a sweat. Now we move on to the C4 three-speed. It was a lighter duty three-speed automatic. The C4 was available in earlier Bullnose models, offering a simpler and more compact alternative to the C6. Now we’ve got the AOD, the four-speed. It was introduced in 1980, and the AOD is a four-speed automatic with overdrive, designed for better fuel economy without sacrificing performance. And now a popular swap in, the E4OD, which is a four-speed automatic with overdrive. It was introduced in 1989, so it’s not part of the stock Bullnose lineup, but it is a popular upgrade for Bullnose trucks, especially with the C6 or AOD because it offers a stronger option with overdrive and better highway performance. The E4OD is what I have in my donor vehicle for my 251 Windsor.

Moving on to carburetors. You’ve got the Motorcraft 2150. It’s a popular two-barrel carb used throughout the Bullnose years, known for its reliability and ease of tuning. You’ve got the Motorcraft 4180C, the four-barrel carburetor, often found in the 5.0-liter and 5.8-liter engines. It offers better performance than the 2150 with improved fuel delivery. You get the Karner YFA. We use mainly on the 300 inline 6. The Karner YFA is a one-barrel carburetor that’s simple and reliable, perfect for the torquey six-cylinder.

Now let’s move on to suspension and axle systems. Two-wheel drive Bullnose trucks all got the twin I-beam suspension. It’s durable and offers a smooth ride, but it can be tricky to align and it definitely has its quirks. The four-wheel drive equivalent of that, the twin traction beam suspension, offered similar durability with the added complexity of four-wheel drive components. Along with those, you’ve got the Dana 44, which is a common front axle in four-wheel drive Bullnose trucks. The Dana 44 is known for its strength and ease of service. You also have the heavier Dana 50, found in heavier-duty models. The Dana 50 front axle offers increased strength for those needing more capability in their four-wheel drive trucks. Moving to the rear, we’re going to start with the Ford 7.5-inch. This rear axle was common in lighter-duty Bullnose trucks and Broncos. It offered adequate strength for fairly light-duty applications. Moving on from there, you can move into the Ford 8.8-inch. It’s a popular rear axle option. The 8.8-inch offers a good balance of strength and weight, making it ideal for most applications. And then, we move up to the 9-inch. Available with earlier models, the 9-inch rear axle is a legend in the off-road and racing world, known for its toughness and aftermarket support. The Dana 60, it’s the go-to for heavy-duty rear axles. It’s perfect for towing and off-road use, offering unmatched strength in the Bullnose lineup. The Dana 70 was found in some heavy-duty trucks. The Dana 70 offers even more strength than the Dana 60, and it’s ideal for the most demanding tasks. Moving on to the Sterling 10.25-inch. It’s a heavy-duty rear axle found in three, four-ton and one-ton trucks.

So now for the fun part. Let’s talk about some of the more popular mods and upgrades that you can do to your Ford Bullnose. I’m going to start with the Crown Vic Swap. It’s a popular front suspension swap. The Crown Vic Swap lowers the truck and improves handling with modern suspension geometry. Basically, you take a Crown Vic and you put the front suspension in your truck. The Saginaw Power Steering Pump Swap. Those whiny power steering pumps are a pain in the ass. This swap replaces the stock Ford power steering pump with a Saginaw offering improved reliability, easier steering and less noise. Rear Disc Brake Conversion. Upgrading to rear disc brakes improves stopping power and reduces maintenance compared to drum brakes, making it a popular swap. Front Bench Seat Replacement. Swapping the stock bench seat for bucket seats or a more modern bench can improve comfort and interior aesthetics. Tilt Steering. I’d love to have tilt steering in my truck. Adding tilt steering to a non-tilt truck can improve driving comfort and make getting in and out a little easier. Adding air conditioning. Adding AC to a non-AC Bullnose can be a challenge, but it can dramatically improve your comfort, especially in hot climates. Me, I live in New Mexico, so I made sure to buy one with AC from the factory because that’s a tough swap. Headlight Upgrade. Pretty simple. Upgrading to modern headlights such as LED or HID improves nighttime visibility and safety over the stock steel beams. Just make sure that you upgrade your wiring harness when you do it. Altimeter Upgrade. Swapping to a higher output altimeter is a must for trucks running additional electrical accessories like lights, winches or upgraded sound systems. And finally, the Borgeson Steering Shaft. This upgrade replaces the stock steering shaft with a Borgeson unit, improving steering feel and reducing play, especially on older trucks.

All right guys, there you go. There’s all the engines, transmissions, carburetors, axles and other miscellaneous mods that you can do to your Bullnose to make it better. But listen, I’m not perfect, so if I missed something, drop something in the comments and let me know. Guys, I hope you learned something from this video, and if you did, give me a like, email, subscribe. I really appreciate it. Hey, head to my merch store, grab a cool hat. Thanks again for watching guys, and we will see you next time.

hiy folks Ed here welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today I’m doing something a little bit different. I have a product here from Dinox and a set of headers for my 351W. So, uh, they sent this set to me and, uh, asked me to do a little review of them for you guys, so that’s what I’m doing today. Um, now unfortunately I’m not going to have time, uh, to put those on the actual, uh, vehicle itself. I can’t get them on the engine, obviously the engine’s not ready for that. Uh, but what I can do is, uh, go through the package, open it up, take a look at them, see their quality, and let you know what I think. So let’s get into it. Hello!

All right, so here the box I got. We’re starting fresh. Everything is even still in the bubble wrap. So let’s take a look at these bad boys. These are stainless steel. They look really good. They come with brackets, reducers, your gaskets, and your hardware, and there you go. What you see is what you get. Now when I put these on mine, which I will, um, I think I’d probably go with ARP bolts instead of the ones that come with this. That’s not to say that these bolts aren’t good. I don’t know that they’re not good, but ARP is kind of the standard, and, uh, since I build a performance engine, I want to make sure that I get the best. So, uh, that’s what I’ll probably do there. But let’s take a look at these actual headers themselves. Oh man, I love new engine parts!

All right, so I will be the first to admit that I am not a header expert. I’m just some with a bullnose who likes working on in a spare time. But I can’t tell you when I think something is pretty high quality, and these seem to be pretty high quality. They are 304 stainless steel, and I mean this look shiny. I mean, yeah, they are beautiful. I can’t wait to get these on my 351 when I finally do that build. All right, so what do you get? You get a couple of headers, obviously, get a couple of reducers. Uh, this will take you from 3 in down to 2 and 1/2 if that’s the size of your exhaust. Obviously, you get the gaskets, and you get a couple of hangers, and you get your mounting hardware.

Okay, so let’s take a look at some of the important stuff, right? Obviously, like I said, they seem to be pretty well built. They’re nice and solid. Um, the runners on there look like they’re configured pretty well. Here’s the welds, so you can see what the welds look like. Um, I am not a welding expert by any means, but they do look pretty good to me. There’s your welds on top, and just for the sake of consistency, so that you can see how their manufacturing processes are for two separate pieces, here’s the other one, right? So I know how heavy these are ’cause I’m holding on to them, but how thick are they? On the tin, it says they should be 1.5 mm. I got my CID Harbor Freight caliper, and let’s see what it says. Oh, it’s not pull the battery out of there. Handy dandy Harbor Freight quality right there. Let’s get that back. Come on now, get on there. Hey, there we go. Battery compartment in there. All right, is zero. Okay, now we’re ready. Let’s see how thick it is, and it says 1.52 and 1.47 depending on how I roll it. Uh, obviously because it’s rounded, it’s kind of hard to get an exact measurement, but you know, I do think, uh, let’s see, there’s 1.6, 1.51. Yeah, I think that’s going to be, uh, exactly what they say it is, 1.5 mm.

So for the sake of complete transparency, there is one thing that I want to mention. The company Dinox that sent me these, again, they sent me these for free for me to keep them, put them on my truck. Uh, they’re not paying me for this, so, um, they are a little expensive. These are about, uh, $3.89 for the set on their website. Uh, now they have said that, uh, they’ll make a deal for my viewers. It’ll be down in the comments. Um, but, uh, they do come with a three-year warranty from Dinox. Um, now again, to be fair, I don’t know how, uh, good that warranty is going to be. I haven’t had to deal with their customer service. I have dealt with them as part of this, uh, this video preparation for them to send me these headers, uh, and they’ve been very responsive. They’ve gotten back to me within, uh, you know, 24 hours every single time. Now obviously they’re trying to get me to make a video to do release or to do a review for you guys, so you know, they’re trying to grow their business, they’re trying to reach out. You know, the other thing I’ve done noticed is that, uh, they’ve been posting a lot on like 4×4 forums and, uh, you know, other automotive forums trying to get their brand out there. Uh, so what they mainly make is, uh, exhaust stuff. They kind of specialize in EGR delete stuff, um, tubes and fittings and stuff to do those sorts of projects. So, you know, if you’re looking to do an EGR delete or, um, you know, they got a couple videos out there about, uh, um, exhaust dumps, electronic exhaust dumps, and, um, just a bunch of stuff it comes with exhaust. So if you’re looking into that, you may want to give them a shout. But they’re fairly new, so, uh, you know, if you’re willing to, they gave me a chance, small channel trying to get out there and, uh, you know, promote their products, and so I really do appreciate that. And like I said, I will definitely be putting this, uh, on my truck when, uh, when that time comes, uh, when I get that engine ready to go. So I’m looking forward to that.

And you know, as much as I’m not a mechanic, I am kind of a perfectionist, so I’ve been doing a lot of research on basically every part that’s going to go on that engine. And I wouldn’t put a part on the engine, uh, that I don’t trust, you know, and that’s just the way that it is. And even with my limited experience in headers and parts and that kind of stuff, man, these are, you know, these are heavy. Uh, they feel like they’re really well built, uh, and it just, it just they look beautiful. So, you know, take that for what it’s worth, take it with a grain of salt from me because again, I’m not a mechanic, I’m just a Schmo. All right? And I got these for free, but I will tell you that they’re not paying me, so, uh, the fact that I got them for free has not tainted this review or anything. It is just a straight honest, um, you know, what you see is what you get with me, guys. Uh, you know, we’ll see how they go. It’s like the bolts, right? I’m going to use ARP ’cause, yeah, anyway, yeah. So when we put these on my truck, uh, you know, when I want to put them on the engine ’cause I’m going to run on a stand, uh, we’ll see how it goes.

So anyway, as always, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, put them below. Uh, I’ll have links below to all of this stuff and the Dinox website, uh, for more information. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today I’m actually out in my bun, driving around, so forgive the bumps and rattles and, you know, some of the noises that happen with an older truck. Today I’m here to talk about the NP435 transmission, which is this puppy right here. That’s what’s in my truck. It is a solid workhorse of a transmission and, uh, it’s certainly worth your consideration if you want to do a, uh, a swap or if you’ve already got one you want to do a rebuild. Uh, it’s probably worth your time. I’m going to get into exactly what everything is, how it works, uh, what all the stats are, that kind of stuff. Keep in mind, uh, this video is Bullnose-centric because it’s Bullnose Garage. So while I know, uh, that the NP435 was used in other vehicles like, um, you know, basically all kinds of vehicles across the board, uh, what I’m going to be focusing on are the Bullnose vehicles, the Fords. So you’re going to see some information in the video that is specific, uh, to the Ford versions. So that’s because I’m a Ford guy, you know, that’s how it works. So while I pop up onto the interstate here and let this engine scream for mercy as it goes into the high fourth gear on the transmission because there’s no overdrive, let’s, uh, go ahead and get into it.

Hello, the NP435. This manual gearbox isn’t just a transmission; it’s a piece of engineering that stood the test of time. Known for its durability and versatility, whether you’re restoring a classic or just curious about what’s under the hood, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know about the NP435, from its gear ratios and shift pattern to the engines it pairs with and how to keep it running smoothly. The NP435 is a four-speed manual gearbox designed with one goal in mind: durability. Built by New Process Gear, a name synonymous with heavy duty, this transmission has been a workhorse in Ford’s lineup since the 1960s. It was a natural fit for the Bullnose trucks and Broncos of the 1980s, providing the kind of robust performance that these vehicles are known for.

Now, what makes the NP435 particularly interesting is its gear setup. You’ve got four forward gears, but they’re not all synchronized. Second through fourth gears are synchronized, making for smooth shifts during regular driving. The first gear, often called the granny gear, and reverse, they’re not synchronized. So if you’re trying to pop into first while still rolling, you’re in for a bit of a grind, literally. But that’s by design because first gear is really meant for when you need serious torque to get moving, especially with a heavy load. So let’s talk gear ratios. The NP435 is known for its particularly low first gear, which is what gives it that reputation as a workhorse. In most Ford applications, you’ll find the following ratios: first gear 6.69 to 1, second gear 3.34 to 1, third gear 1.66 to 1, fourth gear 1 to 1, or direct drive, and reverse 8.26 to 1. There’s also a version with a slightly less extreme first gear at 4.85 to 1, but the low ratio version is what you’ll most commonly find in these Bullnose trucks. That first gear at 6.69 to 1 isn’t something you’d use in everyday driving unless your everyday involves towing a tractor out of a ditch or crawling over boulders. It’s all about giving you the torque to move heavy loads or navigate through terrain with confidence.

The shift pattern on this transmission is pretty straightforward. Here’s how it’s laid out: first gear is up and to the left, second is down to the left, third is straight up in the middle, fourth is straight down in the middle, and reverse, that’s far right and down. Now this pattern is practical, especially for a transmission designed to handle tough jobs. First gear is intentionally out of the way so you don’t accidentally engage it when you’re moving through the more commonly used gears. Moving on to the physical aspects of the NP435, this transmission is built like a tank. The case is made of cast iron, which gives it that characteristic durability but also adds some serious heft. At around 130 lbs, this isn’t the kind of transmission you casually toss around the garage. It’s hefty for a reason; it’s built to withstand the kind of stress that comes with heavy duty use. For the four version, the input shaft, which connects to your engine, has a diameter of 1 and 1/16 in with 10 splines. You’ll also notice a power takeoff or PTO port on the passenger side of the case. This cast iron construction and solid internals are part of why the NP435 has such a loyal following. It’s not flashy, but it’s the kind of component that you can rely on when the going gets tough.

So what can you bolt this transmission up to? The NP435 is versatile, fitting a range of engines that you typically find in Bullnose Ford trucks and Broncos. Whether you’re running the venerable Ford 300 inline 6 or one of the V8s like the 302, 351 Windsor, 400, or even the big 460, the NP435 has you covered. This flexibility made it a popular choice in a wide range of Ford trucks, from daily drivers to heavy duty workhorses. When it comes to fluids, the NP435 calls for SAE 50 weight oil or 80W90 gear oil. You might be tempted to use modern synthetic oils, and that’s fine, but make sure they’re compatible with the brass synchronizers inside the transmission. These old school gearboxes weren’t designed with synthetic fluids in mind, so using the wrong type can cause more harm than good. The transmission holds about 4.5 quarts, and it’s wise to change it every 30,000 to 50,000 miles, especially if you’re working the truck hard. The NP435 typically pairs with the mechanical clutch linkage in these trucks, which is straightforward and reliable. Depending on your specific setup, the clutch diameter usually hovers around 11 in, but there’s some variation depending on the engine and vehicle configuration.

When it comes to transfer cases, the NP435 is highly compatible with several options, making it a favorite among those building serious off-roaders or towing rigs. You’ve got the NP205, a gear-driven, highly durable transfer case that’s pretty much bulletproof. Then there’s the NP28, which is chain-driven and a bit lighter but still solid for most uses. The Borg Warner 1345 is also another option, reliable, chain-driven, and well-suited to off-road adventures. This compatibility with multiple transfer cases makes the NP435 a versatile option, whether you’re building a truck for the trail or the highway. Now cooling, unlike modern transmissions that might have dedicated cooling systems, the NP435 keeps it simple. It relies on air cooling, with a cast iron case acting as a heat sink to dissipate the warmth generated during operation. For most driving conditions, this setup works fine. However, if you’re planning on running it hard, whether that’s towing heavy loads or spending long hours off-road, make sure the transmission gets plenty of airflow. Overheating isn’t a common issue, but it’s something to be mindful of in extreme conditions.

Speaking of running hard, the NP435 can handle up to 450 ft-lbs of torque. That’s a significant amount, and it’s more than enough for the engines it typically pairs with. Whether you’re hauling, towing, or off-roading, this transmission is built to take the stress without breaking a sweat. Driving with the NP435 is an experience that feels more mechanical, more connected to the truck. Low first gear, often called granny gear, is great for when you need to get a heavy load moving or navigate tough terrain, but in everyday driving, most people start in second gear. The shifts are deliberate; there’s no rushing this transmission, and that’s part of its charm. On the highway, the direct drive fourth gear allows you to cruise comfortably, although the RPMs are higher than what you’d see with modern overdrive transmissions. But that’s the trade-off: you get strength and simplicity, but not necessarily the refinement of newer gearboxes. The NP435 shines in situations where durability and reliability are more important than smoothness. It’s excellent for off-road driving, towing, and any situation where you need to trust your transmission to get the job done.

When it comes to keeping your NP435 in good shape, regular maintenance, as usual, is key. Fluid changes are a must, especially if you’re putting the transmission through its paces. Luckily, routine service like this is straightforward, although the weight and bulk of the NP435 can make more in-depth work a bit challenging. Rebuilding the NP435 isn’t overly complicated compared to other transmissions, but it does require some mechanical know-how and the right tools. A full rebuild kit will set you back somewhere between $400 and $700, depending on the quality of the parts. Uh, if you need to replace major components or if the transmission is in particularly rough shape, a professional rebuild might be in order, and that could run you anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500. Given the longevity of this transmission, though, it could be a solid investment. The NP435 is renowned for its durability; with proper maintenance, this transmission can easily last over 200,000 miles. It’s a workhorse designed to handle tough conditions, whether that’s off-road, towing, or just the rigors of daily driving. But like any mechanical component, it does have its potential issues. Synchronizers in second through fourth gear can wear over time, especially if the transmission hasn’t been well-maintained. Bearings can also wear out, particularly if the fluid hasn’t been changed regularly. And if you’re doing a lot of heavy off-roading, the input shaft might show signs of wear sooner than expected. Despite these potential issues, the NP435’s reputation for reliability is well-earned. It’s built to last, and with a little care, it will.

The NP435 has been around since the 1960s, making it one of the more enduring designs in heavy-duty transmissions. Ford used it extensively across its truck lineup, from the F100 to the F350 and even in the Broncos. Here’s a quick rundown of where you might find one: at the Ford F100 from 1966 to 1983, the Ford F-150 from 1975 to 1986, the Ford F250 from 1966 to 1987, the Ford F350 from 1966 to 1987, and the Ford Bronco from 1966 to 1977. The NP435 was favored for its ability to handle the demands of these trucks, whether that was for work, off-road, or just reliable daily driving. And thanks to its popularity and long production run, the NP435 enjoys pretty strong aftermarket support. Whether you’re looking for a rebuild kit, replacement parts, or performance upgrades, there is no shortage of options. Popular modifications include upgrading the bearings, altering gear ratios for specific applications, and modifying the shifter for a shorter throw, especially useful in off-road setups. And this transmission might not have the glamour of modern units, but its reliability and the wealth of available parts and upgrades make it a favorite among enthusiasts.

So that all sounds great. The NP435 is strong, it’s reliable, it’s heavy-duty, and it can handle pretty much whatever you throw at it. And, uh, I’m pulling right out and putting in something different. Ed, Ed, why do you do this? You’re doing this to your 3006, and now you’re doing it to your NP435 too. Why do you keep changing things? Why do you keep pulling the most reliable components out of your truck? Well, to start with, the NP435 is a four-speed with a really low first gear. Now that’s great for heavy-duty tasks, but it can feel a bit clunky and unnecessary on the street, and I’m building a street truck. And I always start off in second gear and can count on one hand the times I’ve used first gear in a real-world situation. The shifts are heavy, and there’s no synchro in first, which means I’ve got to double clutch if I want to drop down into first while rolling. Now for some folks, that’s part of the charm. There’s a raw mechanical feel that reminds you that you’re driving something built to last. But if talking about refinement for a street queen is what my truck will be, the NP435 leaves a bit to be desired. The shifts are more of a workout compared to modern transmissions, and you’re going to feel every bit of that ruggedness in your hands. It’s not the smoothest operator, and on the highway, that missing fifth gear means my Windsor is going to be revving higher than I’m going to like. It gets the job done, but it’s not what I would call a relaxing drive.

So my choice? The ZF5 is a 5-speed manual, and that extra gear makes a world of difference when you’re just out for a drive. For starters, the ZF5 is a more refined transmission all around. It’s got synchronized gears across the board, which means shifts are smoother and easier, even in first. Everything about the ZF5 feels more polished and suited to street driving. The gear ratios are more evenly spaced, which will give me better control over the power from my built 351 Windsor. And where the ZF5 really shines is that fifth gear. On the highway, it lets the engine settle into a nice, comfortable RPM, making for a quieter, more fuel-efficient drive. And you’ll notice the difference right away: less noise, less strain on the engine, and an overall smoother ride. So if, like me, you’re setting up your truck for street use and you want to enjoy those horses without feeling like you’re in a tug of war with the gearbox, I’d say the ZF5 is the way to go. It’s smoother, quieter, and just more enjoyable for everyday driving. The NP435 has its charm, no doubt, but for a refined street experience, the ZF5 will make the truck a joy to drive, whether I’m cruising around town or hitting the highway.

All that said, the NP435 isn’t just a transmission; it’s a testament to durable, no-nonsense engineering. While it might lack the smoothness and refinement of more modern gearboxes, that strength and reliability more than make up for it. Whether you’re restoring a classic Bullnose Ford or just need a transmission you can count on, the NP435 is a solid choice, and it’s built to last. So as you guys can see and probably hear, I’m out here on the interstate going about 65 mph, and that’s about as fast as I can get this rig to go using the, uh, NP435 and my inline 6. And at 65, I’m in fourth gear, spinning about 26 or 2700 RPM, so it’s pretty high. It’d be nice to have an overdrive.

All right, guys, well that’s the NP435, everything that I know or pretend to know about this solid workhorse of a transmission. Hopefully, you learned something; that’s always my goal in all my videos is to, uh, impart knowledge, take the stuff that I’ve learned, stuff that I’ve researched, and pass it on to folks, uh, to maybe help them out a little bit. So you know, now’s the time that I ask, if you really want to support the channel, I’d appreciate a like, a subscribe, uh, drop a comment down below. Hey, if you really want to support me and get some cool stuff, check out my merch store. I’ve got a lot of really cool designs on there that I’m really happy with, you know, uh, especially get here if you, uh, like a little bit of granny gear. Yeah, get your granny on. Was that creepy? I feel like that was creepy. All right, guys, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys. Oh, and by the way, that link is bullnosegarage.com merch. Get your granny on. Thanks again for watching, guys. We will see you next time. Oh.