Tag automatic transmission

What are the common issues with a 1986 Ford F150 5.0 automatic not starting?


Bullnose Bill explaining troubleshooting for a 1986 Ford F150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
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Great! What would you like to know or do with your 1986 F-150? Looking for repair advice, maintenance tips, or maybe some upgrade ideas? Let me know!


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User:

What could be causing my 1986 F150 to not start despite new fuel injectors and lines?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Let’s dig into this fuel issue with your ’86 F-150. It sounds like you’re dealing with a fuel delivery problem. Here are a few steps to troubleshoot and hopefully resolve it:

Check Fuel Pressure

  1. Fuel Pressure Test:

    • Use a fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure at the fuel rail. The 5.0 EFI should have around 35-45 psi.
    • If the pressure is low, it might be a failing fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter.
  2. Fuel Pump:

    • Listen for the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to the "ON" position. If you don’t hear it, the pump may be failing or there could be an electrical issue.

Inspect Fuel System Components

  1. Fuel Filter:

    • Make sure your fuel filter isn’t clogged. A blocked filter will restrict fuel flow to the engine.
  2. Fuel Pump Relay:

    • Check the fuel pump relay and its connections. A faulty relay can prevent power from reaching the pump.
  3. Inertia Switch:

    • Ensure the inertia switch hasn’t been tripped. This switch cuts off fuel in the event of a collision but can sometimes trip accidentally.

Check Air and Idle Control

  1. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC):

    • A faulty IAC valve can cause high idle and stalling. Clean or replace it if needed.
  2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS):

    • If the TPS is out of adjustment or faulty, it can cause stalling when you hit the gas. Test it with a multimeter to ensure proper operation.

Electrical and Sensor Checks

  1. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor:

    • Make sure the MAF sensor is clean and functioning properly. A dirty or defective MAF can cause idle and throttle issues.
  2. Engine Control Unit (ECU):

    • Consider checking for any stored trouble codes, even if the Check Engine Light isn’t on. This might give you clues.

Pro Tips

  • Fuel Quality: Ensure the fuel is fresh and not contaminated with water or debris.
  • Vacuum Leaks: Inspect for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and hoses, as these can affect idle and throttle response.

If you go through these steps and still have issues, there could be something more specific tied to the electrical system or the ECU. Keep me posted on what you find!

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User:

I have replaced all fuel pumps and filters; what else should I check?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Got it. Since you’ve got new fuel pumps and filters, let’s focus on some other potential culprits:

Electrical and Sensor Focus

  1. Fuel Pump Relay and Wiring:

    • Double-check the relay and associated wiring for any corrosion or loose connections.
  2. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS):

    • Test the TPS with a multimeter. It should have a smooth change in voltage as you move the throttle.
  3. Idle Air Control Valve (IAC):

    • Clean the IAC valve. If it’s sticking, it can cause idle and stalling issues.

Fuel System Pressure Check

  • Pressure Regulator:
    • Ensure the fuel pressure regulator isn’t leaking or faulty. Check the vacuum line attached to it for fuel presence, indicating a diaphragm issue.

Air Intake and Sensors

  1. MAF Sensor:

    • Ensure the MAF sensor is clean. Use MAF cleaner to avoid damaging it.
  2. Check for Vacuum Leaks:

    • Inspect all hoses and the intake manifold for leaks with a smoke test or carb cleaner spray.

ECU and Codes

  • Diagnostic Scan:
    • Even if the Check Engine Light isn’t on, use a scan tool to check for any stored codes.

Additional Thoughts

  • Timing and Ignition:
    • Confirm the ignition timing is set correctly and the distributor cap and rotor aren’t worn out.

If you troubleshoot these areas and still face issues, it might be worth consulting with a local mechanic for a deeper diagnostic. Let me know how it goes!

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User:

Why does my truck respond to starting fluid but not start normally?

Bill avatar
Bill:

When your engine fires with starting fluid, but not otherwise, it indicates the engine is getting spark and air but insufficient fuel. Here’s why that might happen:

Potential Causes

  1. Insufficient Fuel Delivery:

    • Even with new pumps, there might be an obstruction or a weak electrical supply affecting the pump’s performance.
  2. Fuel Pressure Regulator:

    • A faulty regulator might be providing insufficient pressure, preventing fuel from reaching the injectors effectively.
  3. Injectors Not Firing:

    • The injectors might not be getting the signal to fire. This could be a wiring issue, a blown fuse, or a problem with the Engine Control Unit (ECU).

What to Check Next

  1. Injector Pulse:

    • Use a noid light to check if the injectors are getting a pulse. If not, it’s likely an electrical or ECU issue.
  2. Fuel Pressure:

    • Even with new components, verify that the pressure at the fuel rail meets specifications.
  3. ECU and Electrical Connections:

    • Ensure all related electrical connectors are secure, with no corrosion or damage.
  4. Check Grounds:

    • Poor grounding can affect fuel system components, causing erratic behavior.

By addressing these areas, you can better pinpoint the weak link in the fuel delivery system. Let me know how you progress!

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User:

Does the 1986 Ford F150 have an OBD port for diagnostics?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Your 1986 F-150 likely doesn’t have an OBD-I port like later vehicles. Instead, it uses a self-test connector under the hood, typically near the driver’s side fender. You can use a code reader specifically for Ford vehicles from this era or perform a manual test with a test light or multimeter to read trouble codes.

Here’s how you can do it:

How to Read Codes

  1. Locate the Connector:

    • Find the EEC-IV test connector under the hood.
  2. Connect a Test Light:

    • Use a test light or jumper wire to connect the Self-Test Input (STI) to the Signal Return (SIG RET).
  3. Turn the Key On:

    • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position without starting the engine.
  4. Read the Codes:

    • Count the flashes of the Check Engine Light or test light. The flashes correspond to two-digit trouble codes.

Tips

  • Code Interpretation:

    • Refer to a code list for specific meanings. There should be two sets: continuous memory codes and hard fault codes.
  • Be Patient:

    • The process takes a little time, so be patient while counting the flashes.

This can help pinpoint issues that might not be immediately obvious. Let me know what codes you find!

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User:

Where can I find the OBD port under the hood of my 1986 F150?

Bill avatar
Bill:

The EEC-IV test connector on your 1986 F-150 is usually located near the driver’s side fender, close to the firewall or the brake booster. It might be covered with a plastic cap. Look for a small, rectangular connector with a couple of wires leading into it. If you’re having trouble locating it, check the area around the master cylinder or the power distribution box.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


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Ford C6 Transmission

Published on November 27, 2024

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Part of the Bullnose Era Transmissions series.

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Show Transcript

This is the Ford C6 transmission built by Ford to be a rugged automatic capable of handling their V8 lineup. It’s pulled its weight in everything from daily drivers to stump pullers, off-road rigs, and tire smoking strip machines. Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today we’re shining a spotlight on one of Ford’s toughest and most iconic transmissions, the C6 automatic. Its sheer strength and dead simple design make it a favorite for all kinds of car and truck builds, and it still holds its own in a ton of classic Fords today. But how much do you really know about what’s going on inside that case? Stick around, because by the end of this video, you might just know more than your mechanic does.

Hello, the C6 rolled out in 1966, stepping in for the older MX and FX automatics. Ford needed a gearbox tough enough to handle the muscle of their big V8s like the 429, 460, and the iconic FE series engines. Enter the C6, a three-speed automatic built for serious torque duty. Unlike its cast iron predecessors, the C6 used lighter materials while still delivering solid performance. This transmission quickly earned a name among Ford fans and builders as a gearbox that could handle anything. It stuck around in production until 1997, an impressive 30-plus year run that proved its staying power.

What really makes the C6 stand out is just how many roles it can play. You’ll see it bolted up to everything from small block Windsor to Ford’s massive big blocks and even the International Harvester diesels in Ford’s toughest trucks. But here’s the catch: the bell housing isn’t interchangeable. You’ll need the right C6 for your engine family, and Ford made four main versions: one for the small blocks like the 302 and 351 Windsor, another for the big blocks like the 429 and 460, a version for the FE series engines like the 390 and 428, and the diesel-specific version for engines like the 6.9 and 7.3 L IDI.

Hey guys, future editor Ed here, and I just wanted to make a note that the transmission that you see up on the screen now is the diesel version of the C6. The bell housing is extremely similar to the big block housing for the 460, but there’s a cutout on the bottom for the diesels that’s a little bit different, and also the dowel locations and the holes don’t quite line up between the big block and the diesel bell housings. Now, you can make one fit the other with some modifications, but it’s a bunch of work. So, your best bet if you have a 460 is to go out and find a big block housing. If you’ve got a diesel, go out and find a diesel housing. But just to let you guys know that you can make modifications to make those two interchangeable if you really want to.

And it didn’t stop at cars and trucks. The C6 even powered industrial gear and military vehicles. Its rugged build made it a perfect fit for extreme environments, whether it was digging trenches or rolling through battlefields. Ford hit the jackpot with this one, and the C6’s rock-solid design locked in its legendary status.

Now you might be wondering which vehicles came with the C6. From 1967 to 1996, it was a staple in F-series trucks paired with engines like the 316, 351 Windsor, 390 FE, and 460 big block. It also showed up in Broncos, Galaxies, Mustangs, Cougars, and Thunderbirds, just to name a few. Ford even made 4×4 variants by modifying the tail shaft bolted up directly to transfer cases like the NP 205 and Borg Warner 1356. With all this versatility, it’s no wonder the C6 became Ford’s go-to automatic gearbox for all those years.

Let’s get into the specs. The C6 is a three-speed automatic with gear ratios of 2.46 to 1 in first, 1.46 to 1 in second, and direct 1:1 in third. Reverse comes in at 2.18 to 1. This thing is built tough, tipping the scales around 165 lb dry. The main case, along with the bell housing, is aluminum. Every now and then, you’ll find a cast iron tail shaft, but those are very rare and for specific applications. So generally, the tail shaft will also be cast aluminum. It holds 10 to 12 quarts of Type F fluid, which is famous for its friction properties to give the C6 those crisp, snappy shifts. If you keep up with your fluid changes and filter swaps, this transmission will run smooth for decades.

The C6 wasn’t just tough; it also changed the game with some really clever innovations. One standout feature was Borg Warner’s flexible shift band. Traditional rigid shift bands wore unevenly and led to sloppy shifts over time. The flexible shift band in the C6 wrapped evenly around the drum, delivering smoother, more precise shifts and serious staying power. It’s the kind of thing you just might not notice until it’s not working.

One of the C6’s smartest features is its Simpson planetary gear set. This setup combines two planetary gear assemblies into one compact unit, cutting down on moving parts while cranking up torque transfer. What does that mean for you? Well, it’s less complexity, fewer breakdowns, and better performance, especially when towing or tackling really steep grades. That Simpson gear set is why the C6 can handle heavy loads and big horsepower like a champ, making it a favorite for racers and heavy-duty truck enthusiasts.

Like the C6, it also offered Ford’s select shift capability, letting drivers manually hold the transmission in first, second, or third gear using the column or console shifter. It gave drivers the control they needed for towing, tackling steep grades, or handling rough off-road terrain. Now, while this might sound like a standard feature today thanks to manual modes and paddle shifters, select shift was ahead of its time. With mechanical linkages and internal valves adjusting the gears, it gave drivers a hands-on tactile feel with every shift. Back in the ’60s and ’70s, this feature made the C6 stand out as a driver-focused automatic.

The C6 was sometimes referred to in conjunction with Ford’s select shift Cruisomatic branding, highlighting its smooth shifting and driver control features. Select shift is a key part of that image, proving you could have comfort, capability, and control all in one package.

One of the C6’s biggest strengths is its old school simplicity, which makes it a favorite for installations, swaps, service, and upgrades. Its one-piece design for the bell housing and main case eliminates weak points, making it tough as nails and practically leak-proof. Two big wins over older automatics. Builders love the C6 because it can take on serious horsepower right out of the box, and with a few tweaks, it is practically unstoppable.

Of course, no transmission is perfect, and the C6 is no exception. If the gears start slipping, it’s usually down to worn clutches or low on fluid. Hard shifts, that’s often a sticky valve body. Leaks usually pop up around the pan gasket or seals, especially in older units that haven’t seen regular TLC. Stay on top of fluid changes and keep an eye on seals to head off most problems before they get serious.

There’s also a few other downsides to keep in mind with the C6. The biggest downside is no overdrive gear. At highway speeds, the engine revs pretty high, which kills fuel economy. That’s why a lot of builders looking for modern drivability swap in transmissions like the AOD or E4OD, which come with overdrive. Another drawback is the weight. It’s a hefty unit, and the extra mass can be a concern for certain builds. The C6 also isn’t the most efficient; it eats up more power compared to modern automatics before getting it down to the wheels.

Now let’s talk about hooking it up and plugging it in. The C6’s input shaft has 31 splines at the torque converter end and 30 at the clutch hub. Thanks to its consistent spline design across all the years, torque converters are typically interchangeable across years and models as long as they match the engine family: that small block, big block, FE, or diesel. Ford offered a range of torque converters with stall speeds tailored for specific vehicles and applications. Thankfully, the aftermarket has you covered. If you need something custom, higher stall converters are a favorite for performance builds, while heavy-duty options shine for towing and off-roading. Pick the right converter for your engine’s power band and how you drive, and you’ll squeeze every ounce of performance out of your C6.

Speaking of upgrades, the C6 has one of the best supported aftermarket ecosystems you’re going to find. Shift kits are a go-to upgrade for crisper shifts and less slippage, while high stall converters and steel planetary gears are staples of high-performance builds. Chasing extreme horsepower, builders often even beef up the case and swap in heavy-duty clutches and bands. For off-roaders, a deep transmission pan is a must; it boosts fluid capacity and keeps things cool under tough conditions.

If you’re thinking about alternatives to the C6, the AOD and E4OD, which I mentioned earlier, are worth a look. The AOD throws in an overdrive gear, making it perfect for highway cruising, but don’t expect it to outlast the C6 in terms of toughness. The E4OD, on the other hand, is a heavy-duty four-speed with overdrive built for towing and hauling. It’s more complex and expensive, but it’s a fantastic choice for modernizing old trucks for later duty jobs. The FMX or C4 are solid options; they’re smaller and lighter, and they won’t stand up to the same torque as a C6.

So down to the bottom line: the C6 is a tank, rugged, dependable, and ready for just about anything. It’s right at home in trucks, off-road rigs, or even high-performance street cars—any build where toughness takes a spotlight. Sure, it’s not the most modern or fuel-efficient option, but its simplicity and strength make it a true classic that’s pretty hard to ignore. Whether you’re restoring a classic Ford or dreaming up your next swap, the C6 should definitely make your short list.

All right guys, well there you go. That’s everything that I know or pretend to know about the Ford C6 automatic transmission. Now, I don’t know if you know more than your mechanic does at this point, but you know, I feel like I learned a bunch doing this video. I hope you did too. Guys, if you did, give me a like, give me a subscribe. That really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, if I got something wrong, put them in the comments. I read them all. I really appreciate that. Thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Take her away, get things to shine, and oh, Bullnose Garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, folks. Today, we’re diving deep into the Ford C6 transmission—a real workhorse and a staple in classics from Mustangs to F-150s. If you’re into rugged gearboxes that can take a beating and keep on ticking, the C6 is your kind of transmission. So, buckle up as we break down what makes this piece of automotive history tick.

The Birth of a Legend

The Ford C6 transmission first rolled out in 1966, replacing the older MX and FX automatics. Ford needed a gearbox that could handle the muscle of their big V8s like the 429 and 460, and the C6 stepped up to the plate. This three-speed automatic was built for serious torque, and it remained in production until 1997—a testament to its durability and versatility.

Versatility and Compatibility

The C6 is a bit of a Swiss Army knife when it comes to transmissions. You’ll find it behind everything from small block Windsors to massive big blocks and even International Harvester diesels in Ford’s toughest trucks. Just remember, the bell housing isn’t interchangeable. You need the right version for your engine family, whether it’s small block, big block, FE series, or diesel.

Military and Industrial Use

The C6 didn’t just stick to cars and trucks. Its rugged design made it perfect for industrial and military vehicles, proving its mettle in extreme environments. From digging trenches to rolling through battlefields, the C6 has seen it all.

Specs and Features

Let’s get into the nitty-gritty. The C6 is a three-speed automatic with gear ratios of 2.46:1 in first, 1.46:1 in second, and direct 1:1 in third. It tips the scales around 165 pounds dry and holds 10 to 12 quarts of Type F fluid, known for its friction properties. Regular fluid changes and filter swaps will keep this transmission running smooth for decades.

Innovations and Upgrades

The C6 wasn’t just tough; it was smart too. It featured Borg Warner’s flexible shift band for smoother, more precise shifts, and the Simpson planetary gear set for less complexity and better performance. Its select shift capability let drivers manually hold gears, a feature that was ahead of its time in the ’60s and ’70s.

Strengths and Drawbacks

The C6’s simplicity and toughness make it a favorite for installations, swaps, and upgrades. However, it’s not all sunshine and rainbows. The lack of an overdrive gear means poor fuel economy at highway speeds, and it’s a hefty unit. Plus, it eats up more power before getting it down to the wheels compared to modern automatics.

Aftermarket Support

The C6 enjoys one of the best-supported aftermarket ecosystems. Shift kits, high stall converters, and steel planetary gears are staples for performance builds. For off-roaders, a deep transmission pan boosts fluid capacity and keeps things cool under tough conditions.

Alternatives to Consider

Thinking of alternatives? The AOD and E4OD are worth a look. The AOD adds an overdrive gear for highway cruising, while the E4OD is a heavy-duty four-speed with overdrive built for towing and hauling. They’re more complex and expensive, but they offer modern features the C6 lacks.

Wrapping Up

So, is the C6 the right transmission for you? Well, if you need something rugged, dependable, and ready for just about anything, it’s a solid choice. It’s not the most modern or fuel-efficient, but its simplicity and strength make it a true classic. Whether you’re restoring a classic Ford or planning your next swap, the C6 should definitely be on your radar.

Thanks for sticking around, and if you learned something new, give me a like and subscribe to Bullnose Garage. Got questions or comments? Drop them below. Until next time, keep those wrenches turning and those engines roaring.


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