Tag Bullnose F-150

What are the steps to convert a column shifter to a floor shifter in a Bullnose F-150 with an NP435 transmission?


Bullnose Bill explaining the column to floor shifter conversion for Ford F-150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
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Bill says:

Swapping from a column shifter to a floor shifter in your Bullnose F-150 with an NP435 transmission is a fantastic way to modernize the driving experience and give your truck a fresh look! It’s a rewarding project that can really enhance your classic ride. Let’s dive into the steps you’ll need to follow!

1. Gather Your Tools and Parts

  • Tools Needed:
    • Wrenches and sockets (various sizes)
    • Screwdrivers
    • Pliers
    • Torque wrench
    • Drill (if needed for mounting brackets)
  • Parts Needed:
    • Floor shifter kit specific for the NP435 (you can find these online or at your local parts store)
    • Shifter boot and plate
    • Linkage kit (if not included with the shifter kit)

2. Remove the Column Shifter

  • Start by disconnecting the battery. Safety first!
  • Remove the steering column cover and any trim pieces that may obstruct access to the shifter.
  • Disconnect the linkage from the column shifter to the transmission. Depending on your setup, you might need to unbolt a few parts.
  • Carefully remove the column shifter by unbolting it from the steering column.

3. Prepare the Floor

  • Remove the carpet to access the floor. This will also help you see where to place the new shifter.
  • Depending on the shifter kit you choose, you might need to drill holes for mounting brackets. Be sure to measure twice to avoid any mistakes!

4. Install the Floor Shifter

  • Follow the instructions from your floor shifter kit. You’ll typically mount the shifter base to the floor using the provided brackets.
  • Install the shifter lever and ensure it moves freely without obstruction.
  • Connect the linkage from the new floor shifter to the NP435 transmission. Make sure everything is tight and secured to prevent any rattling or misalignment.

5. Fit the Shifter Boot and Trim

  • Once everything is installed, position the boot over the shifter base and secure it to the floor. This will help keep dirt and debris out of the shifter assembly.
  • Reinstall any trim pieces that were removed and make sure everything looks neat.

6. Reconnect the Battery and Test

  • Reconnect your battery and start the truck. Take it for a test drive to ensure the shifter operates smoothly and that the linkage is correctly adjusted.

7. Final Checks

  • After a short drive, double-check all bolts and connections to ensure nothing has come loose.

Additional Tips:

  • If you haven’t done any shifter swaps before, consider watching a video tutorial for visual guidance. The Bullnose Garage YouTube channel often has practical tips and walkthroughs that can help you through this process!
  • Don’t hesitate to reach out to the community on the Bullnose Ford subreddit if you have any specific questions or run into issues.

This project might take a bit of time, but the satisfaction of shifting through those gears on the floor is well worth it. Happy wrenching! If you have any more questions or need clarification, feel free to ask!


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User:

Which floor shifter kits are recommended for this conversion?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Absolutely! There are a few solid options out there for floor shifter kits that work well with the NP435 transmission in your Bullnose F-150. Here are a couple of recommendations:

1. Hurst Shifter Kits

  • Hurst offers a great reputation and quality when it comes to shifters. Their kits are well-engineered and provide a smooth, positive shift feel. Look for their specific NP435 shifter kit; it should include everything you need for a straightforward installation.

2. B&M Floor Shifter Kits

  • B&M is another popular choice among gearheads. They have a variety of shifter kits that are compatible with the NP435. Their products typically come with detailed instructions, making installation easier for DIYers.

3. Lokar Shifter Kits

  • If you’re looking for something with a bit more style, Lokar offers shifter kits that boast a vintage look with modern performance. Their kits often come with a variety of options for knobs and finishes, allowing you to customize the interior of your Bullnose.

4. DIY Solutions

  • If you’re feeling adventurous, some enthusiasts opt for a custom or DIY approach using generic shifter components. You’ll need to source parts that work with NP435 and ensure proper linkage, but this can lead to a unique setup tailored to your preferences.

Where to Buy

You can typically find these kits online at major auto parts retailers like Summit Racing, Jegs, or even Amazon. Local hot rod shops might also have them in stock.

Each kit will have its own set of instructions, so be sure to read through those carefully. And, as always, check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for any install tips or tricks that might help you along the way. Happy swapping, and let me know if you need anything else!

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User:

Is it necessary to cover the old column shifter holes?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Yes, you’ll definitely want to plug the old holes where the column shifter was mounted once you’ve completed the swap to a floor shifter. This will help maintain a clean appearance in your interior and prevent any unwanted debris or moisture from entering the cab. Here are a couple of options for addressing those holes:

1. Rubber or Plastic Plugs

  • You can find rubber or plastic plugs at most auto parts stores or online. These are designed to fit various hole sizes and can be a quick and effective way to seal off the old holes.

2. Metal or Fabricated Plates

  • If you want a more permanent and aesthetically pleasing solution, consider fabricating a small plate or using a metal cover to seal the holes. You can paint it to match your interior or use a simple black or silver finish for a clean look.

3. Body Filler

  • For a more involved approach, you could use body filler to fill the holes completely, then sand and paint the area to match your truck’s interior. This method requires more work but can result in a seamless finish.

Final Tip

Make sure whatever method you choose is secure and weather-resistant, especially if your truck sees any outdoor use. Keeping your Bullnose looking sharp is half the fun! If you need more tips or have other questions, feel free to ask!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


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Ford 8.8 Axle

Published on September 13, 2024

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Part of the The Bullnose F-150 series.

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Show Transcript

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And today, I am underneath the Bullnose to talk to you about this. This is the Ford 8.8 rear axle. It’s what I have in my truck, and if you guys got a Bullnose, it’s a pretty good chance it’s what you guys got in yours too. Ford put a bunch of these in Bullnose trucks and Broncos throughout the ’80s. So, uh, it’s a pretty good axle. If you’re going to put a whole bunch of horsepower or do a whole lot of torque, it may not be enough, but for the most part, you should be okay. I think I’m going to keep mine, believe it or not. So let’s talk about it.

Hello. So the Ford 8.8, let’s start with a quick overview. The 8.8-inch axle was introduced back in 1983. Ford needed something to replace their older 9-inch axle, and the 8.8 quickly became the go-to for light-duty trucks, SUVs, and even performance cars like the Mustang. But what makes it special? It was used a lot. As a matter of fact, both my 1985 and my 351 Windsor donor vehicle have it installed from the factory. The 8.8-inch axle offers a great mix of strength and cost, making it an axle that Ford put a lot of trust in from the mid-late ’80s and even into the 2000s.

Now you might wonder why Ford moved away from the 9-inch. The 9-inch is legendary, no doubt, but it was also more expensive to produce. The 8.8-inch was engineered to be more cost-effective while still offering plenty of strength for most applications, especially in light trucks and performance vehicles. Now, if you’re rocking a Bullnose Ford from ’80 to ’86, this axle might already be in your truck. Starting at ’83, the 8.8-inch began replacing the 9-inch in some F150s and Broncos, especially in four-wheel-drive models and those with bigger engines. But not always, because mine’s a 300 and it’s got an 8.8. So it could be in a lot of stuff.

Uh, it didn’t stop there. The 8.8 found its way into all sorts of Ford vehicles, from the Mustang to the Explorer and even into the Ranger. Its strength and adaptability made it a hit in the performance and off-road scenes too. Here’s a quick look at all the vehicles that came equipped with the 8.8-inch axle from the factory. As you can see, the 8.8 axle wasn’t just for trucks; it found its way into a variety of Ford lineups. So whether you’re working on a Mustang, an Explorer, or a Bronco, there’s a pretty good chance this axle could be part of your build.

All right, let’s get a bit more technical. The Ford 8.8-inch is a solid rear axle using a single housing to enclose the differential and the axle shafts. The axle tube has a diameter of 3 inches, and in later models, especially from the mid-’90s onward, Ford used heat-treated 1541H steel for added strength. That said, earlier models likely used lower-grade carbon steel, which worked just fine for lighter-duty needs. Now here’s the kicker: there’s no real way to know for sure what material your axle is made from since Ford didn’t mark or document it clearly. But honestly, for most builds, that’s not something you need to worry about.

If you’re building a high-horsepower truck, doing extreme off-roading, or towing heavy, you might care more about the material, but that’s where aftermarket axles come into play. Most folks will find the stock axles more than up to the job, especially if you’ve got 31-spline shafts. And if you’re looking for maximum strength, aftermarket 31-spline shafts, often made from chromoly, are always an option. Another big plus for this axle is the variety of available gear ratios, ranging from 2.73 to 1 for better fuel efficiency to 5.13 to 1 for those who need serious low-end torque. For most folks, ratios like 3.55 to 1, 3.73 to 1, and 4.10 to 1 hit that sweet spot for both street and off-road use. You can tailor your setup to your driving needs, whether that’s quicker acceleration or better fuel economy.

So how does the Ford 8.8 compare to some of the other axles folks might be thinking about? Let’s break it down real quick. We’ll start with the little 7.5-inch axle. This actually was commonly found in earlier F-150s and Rangers. It’s fine for light-duty work, but its 26-spline axle shafts and smaller 7.5-inch ring gear mean it can only handle around 250-300 lb-ft of torque at most. It’s lighter than the 8.8, but it lacks the strength, making the 8.8 a solid upgrade if you’re putting down more power or doing some serious off-roading.

Now, the 9-inch axle. This is the heavy hitter known for its strength and modular design. With a 9-inch ring gear and larger components, it can handle over 4,000 lb-ft of torque, making it great for high-horsepower or quirky applications like towing. However, it’s heavier and more expensive to build and maintain. The 8.8 could still handle plenty of power, up to around 3,500 lb-ft with 31-spline shafts, but it’s lighter, more cost-effective, and it’s a better option for most builds.

The Dana 44 and the Dana 60. The Dana 44, often found in the front of four-wheel-drive trucks, is solid for moderate off-roading but doesn’t quite match the rear 8.8 strength for towing or higher torque builds. The Dana 60 is a different story. This axle can handle well over 5,000 foot-pounds of torque, making it ideal for extreme off-road or heavy-duty use. However, it’s much heavier and, again, it’s probably overkill unless you’re doing serious towing or crawling.

So, installing a 8.8 in your Bullnose isn’t too tricky because it came like that from the factory, but there’s a few things to keep in mind. First off, make sure your new axle has the correct pinion angle for your truck’s suspension setup. Getting this angle wrong can lead to vibration issues that are a pain to deal with. If you’re moving from a smaller axle like the 7.5 to the 8.8, you may need to make some modifications to fit the larger axle tubes and ring gear. For example, the axle shafts are thicker and stronger, so you want to double-check your clearance. Additionally, if you decide to swap from drum to disc brakes, that’ll require new brake lines and compatible calipers if you’re doing that, so be prepared for some extra work there.

Also, keep an eye on weight distribution, especially if you’re doing any performance mods like lowering or lifting your truck. Adjusting the pinion angle and verifying your suspension geometry are crucial steps for ensuring smooth performance and avoiding wear on your driveline. Double-check your torque specs on the axle nuts and make sure everything’s torqued down to prevent any looseness down the road.

The Ford 8.8-inch axle is a popular candidate for upgrades, especially for those looking to handle more power or do more serious off-roading. Upgrading your axle shaft to 31-spline versions is a power move, especially if you’re pushing more horses or plan to pull some. The 31-spline shafts offer a substantial increase in strength over the stock 28-spline versions, providing extra peace of mind when hauling or driving like a maniac, if you’re into that.

Another modification to consider is reinforcing the axle housing with an axle truss, especially if you’re taking your truck off-road. The truss adds rigidity to the axle and helps prevent bending or flexing.

So, to wrap it all up, the 8.8-inch axle wasn’t just a random replacement for the 9-inch. It was part of Ford’s effort to create a more cost-effective yet durable solution for their lineup of light-duty trucks, SUVs, and performance cars. Ford knew the 9-inch was a beast, but they needed something that could handle a wide range of applications without driving up production costs. The 8.8 delivered that balance perfectly, offering a strong, reliable axle that could handle towing, off-roading, and performance builds without breaking the bank.

And here’s a fun fact: while the 8.8-inch axle started out in trucks and Mustangs, it’s now a popular swap option for all kinds of vehicles, including hot rods and even some off-brand 4x4s. That’s how versatile and well-regarded this axle has become. So whether you’re upgrading or just keeping your Bullnose running strong, the 8.8 has proven itself a go-to axle that Ford got right pretty much from the start.

As for me, I’ve already got an 8.8 in my S-150. Now, it’s probably the 28-spline version. I haven’t actually taken off the, uh, the pumpkin housing and checked, but when I do that, I suspect I’m going to find a 28-spline version. Now I’m looking at putting about 4 to 500 horsepower through that truck eventually, so I may be a candidate for upgrading to a 31-spline, but I don’t think I need to go quite as far as the 9-inch.

All right, guys, well, there you go. Everything that I know, or pretend to know, about the Ford 8.8 rear axle, just like I’ve got right here in the back of the donor, obviously sent down from God. As you can see, the rays coming down on this beautiful roached-out chassis. Guys, if you learned something, if, uh, you like this kind of content, if I did a good job, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that. If you want to support the channel, head to the merch store, get yourself a cool hat, t-shirt, bumper sticker, that kind of stuff. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. And as always, always thanks again for watching, guys. We will see you next time.

The Ford 8.8-Inch Axle: A Deep Dive

Hey folks, it’s Ed from Bullnose Garage. Today, we’re diving under the truck to talk about something that’s been a staple in the Ford world for a long time—the 8.8-inch axle. Whether you’re rolling in a Bullnose F-150, a Mustang, or even an Explorer, chances are this axle has been part of your journey. It’s versatile, reliable, and doesn’t empty your wallet. So let’s dig into why this axle has been dominating the scene for decades.

What Makes the 8.8-Inch Axle Special?

The 8.8-inch axle made its debut back in 1983. Ford needed a cost-effective replacement for their beloved 9-inch axle, and the 8.8 fit the bill. It quickly became the go-to for light-duty trucks, SUVs, and performance cars like the Mustang. This axle offers a solid balance of strength and affordability, making it a favorite for Ford’s lineup from the mid-’80s into the 2000s.

Why Move Away from the 9-Inch?

Sure, the 9-inch axle is legendary in its own right, but it was also more expensive to produce. The 8.8 was engineered to be the more wallet-friendly option while still packing enough punch for most light-duty applications. If you’re driving a Bullnose Ford from ’80 to ’86, there’s a good chance the 8.8 is already doing its thing under your truck.

Technical Breakdown

The 8.8-inch axle is a solid rear axle that uses a single housing for the differential and axle shafts. The axle tube is about 3 inches in diameter. In later models, Ford added some extra muscle with heat-treated 1541H steel. Earlier models used lower-grade carbon steel, but unless you’re planning on crazy mods, that should work just fine.

Spline Counts and Gear Ratios

If you’re into numbers, the 8.8 comes with either 28-spline or 31-spline shafts. For most builds, the stock axles are more than enough. Those looking to push boundaries might consider upgrading to aftermarket 31-spline shafts made from chromoly. As for gear ratios, you’ve got options ranging from 2.73 for better fuel efficiency to 5.13 if you’re all about that low-end torque. Most folks find their sweet spot between 3.55 to 4.10, which is just right for both street and off-road use.

Comparing with Other Axles

The 7.5-Inch Axle

This smaller axle was common in earlier F-150s and Rangers. It’s okay for light-duty work, but its 26-spline shafts and 7.5-inch ring gear mean it’s not built for the big leagues. If you’re putting down more power, the 8.8 is your better option.

The 9-Inch Axle

The 9-inch is the heavyweight champion known for its strength, able to handle over 4,000 lb-ft of torque. But it’s heavier and more costly. The 8.8, meanwhile, can handle around 3,500 lb-ft with 31-spline shafts and is more cost-effective.

Dana 44 and Dana 60

The Dana 44 is solid for moderate off-roading but doesn’t match the 8.8 for towing or higher torque builds. The Dana 60 can handle well over 5,000 foot-pounds of torque, but it’s overkill for most applications.

Installation and Upgrades

Installing an 8.8 in a Bullnose isn’t rocket science, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Make sure the pinion angle is correct to avoid vibrations. If you’re upgrading from a smaller axle, you might need to modify to fit larger axle tubes and ring gear. And if you’re switching from drum to disc brakes, be ready for some extra work.

Upgrading Your Axle

For those looking to push more power or hit the trails, upgrading to 31-spline shafts is a smart move. Reinforcing the axle housing with an axle truss can also add rigidity and prevent flexing.

Wrapping It Up

The Ford 8.8-inch axle wasn’t just a cost-cutting measure; it was a well-thought-out solution that met a wide range of needs without breaking the bank. From trucks to Mustangs and even hot rods, this axle has proven its versatility. As for me, my Bullnose is rolling with an 8.8, and if I ever decide to push more horsepower, I might consider a 31-spline upgrade.

So there you have it—everything you didn’t know you needed to know about the Ford 8.8 rear axle. If you enjoyed this chat, hit that like button, subscribe, and maybe grab some merch to support the channel. Got questions? Comments? Gripes? Leave them below. Until next time, keep those wrenches turning!


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For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

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