Tag classic truck restoration

Retro Stereo

Published on October 30, 2024

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Part of the The Bullnose F-150 series.
Part of the Ford Truck Systems and Parts series.

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Show Transcript

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and this is my project for the weekend. This obviously is a brand new stereo system for the truck, and this is a $15 head unit from Amazon. You see it’s got the old retro look. It’s supposed to have Bluetooth and hands-free calling. We’re going to see if it actually works for $15. I don’t know, there’s not even a picture of it on the box. It is super crazy light, like there’s nothing to this thing. But for 15 bucks, you know, we’re going to see if it’s worth your time. So I’m going to put that in, see how it goes.

The other interesting thing as part of this project this weekend is this speaker right here. It is by far the most expensive thing on this entire table. You can get a 5×7 speaker from Amazon for like $10 or $15. This one here was about 80 or 90 bucks, but the reason is because it’s actually a dual voice coil speaker that has both left and right channels built in. It’s specifically made for old vehicles with a dash single dash speaker like my truck or older car. So we’re going to see if that’s worth the money once I get all this stuff put in. And these are obviously like just cheapo JVC 6 and a half inch speakers, the cheapest ones I can find on Amazon. So at some point in the future, I’m going to put a real stereo system in this truck that’s really nice with some subwoofers and amplifiers and the whole bit. For now, I just want to be able to listen to Pandora while I’m driving, so that’s the goal I’m trying to reach today. Let’s see if I can get there. Stick around.

Hello! All right, so the first thing is to get this door panel off. It’s pretty simple. There’s a screw here that holds this on, and then there’s a bunch of these little clips back behind the door here that go into the panel, and then the door clips onto these. If you’ve got an older truck like this, I highly recommend going out and getting you some of these clips. I’ll put the link in the description. Before you get these, these break pretty easy, and if they do break while you’re taking this off and you put it back on without using these clips, the door is going to flop around a little bit and rattle. It’s just going to add to the general cacophony these old trucks make. So, uh, get them secured, and they’re pretty cheap. They’re not very expensive, so make sure you do that. All right, let’s get this thing off.

All right, there we go. And here you can see where those clips just pop in here. Especially if you got an older door panel, you don’t want to be too rough with these. This is actually pretty nice plastic, so it doesn’t break real easy, but it’s possible. So you just want to be careful taking these off. Here is the speaker. These speakers as well are aftermarket. They’re Polk, and they don’t sound too bad, but since I’m doing the entire system, I’m just going to go ahead and replace some of the speakers that I know, so I know what the RMS and the wattage are of them. That way, I can match them to my head unit and not have to worry about them. But like I said, these are pretty good speakers, actually. They sound pretty good, so I’m going to save them, but I’m not going to use them for this.

If you’ve never done stereo installation before, it is really simple. All these speakers just have two wires, a positive and a negative. You just have to make sure that you wire the positive to the positive side, the negative to the negative side, and that’s pretty much it. It does get a little bit more complicated when you start talking about crossovers and amps and, you know, different capabilities of head units and RMS wattage and all that stuff. But for the most part, if you’re just swapping out some stock parts, it’s real simple. It’s got the two plugs here. Whoa! They’re pretty old. Come on, there we go. Yeah, busted that off. It’s okay, it’s just the mounting point. If I want to use it again, I could maybe super glue that. They’re pretty old, but otherwise that still works. It’s still connected to the speaker, so it would be okay.

So while I got the door open and off the panel off, I’m going to go ahead and pop that new speaker in. For those of you curious, this is a set that I got from Amazon. They are really cheap. They’re like 25 bucks, JVC CSJ 620. We’re going to see how they sound. They got pretty good reviews. They’re just a cheap speaker I can use until I get the real thing put in this truck, you know, once I’m done with the engine and everything else. So let’s see how they go. This one’s actually missing a couple of screws. I’ll go see if I can find some that’ll work. When you’re working on old vehicles like this, a lot of times you’ll find missing screws and stuff because this is behind a panel you’re never going to see it. I don’t really care that they’re different colors. I don’t really care that this one here is a little bit crooked. Like I said, you’re never going to see it, so it doesn’t really matter. But having the screw in there is a good idea because it’ll stop things from rattling around, and like I said before, in the cacophony of noise these old trucks make, anything that you can stop from rattling is always a bonus. They are loud enough as they are. Let’s get the old radio in, so I’m going to go check to see if it works.

Okay, it is possible it’s the speaker itself, but it may also be the wiring. So to verify whether it’s the wiring or the speaker, I am going to swap this speaker to the other side of the truck and see if it gives me the same problem. If it does not give you the same problem, that means it’s a problem with my wiring. So if it’s a problem with the wiring, it’s probably here in the door. It may actually be these connectors that are back behind here, just old and corroded and not giving a really good connection. If that’s the case, then I can swap the ends out and put new connectors on. I’ve got those. So, uh, but yeah, we’re going to go see on the other side if this is a speaker problem or a wiring problem.

Okay, so, uh, I can’t let you listen to this because YouTube will give you a copyright strike, but, uh, it’s coming through fine on this side of the truck. So I’m going to swap this back over to the other side, run it again, just verify that I think it’s probably the wiring, and then we’ll go through the troubleshooting steps over there to figure out why the wiring over there might be kind of janky. Yeah, so there is clearly a problem somewhere in this wiring. So the easiest thing to do is just cut these off, assume that these are the problem, cut these off and replace them, and we’ll see if that does it. Normally, I like to do solder connections for most of this stuff, but because this is just a really kind of cheap, almost temporary repair, temporary for a few years, I’ll just go ahead and crimp like, you know, everybody else does. They’re doing car audio.

Always nice when your first instinct is correct. That’s awesome. Here we go, classic hits 101 gold. Now for the rest of this, you got to pull apart the dash, and there’s several screws up underneath here that you got to use to take. You take the screws out, and then you can pop this top off, and then these dash panels will come out so you can get behind here and do what you got to do. That’s it to the top speaker here and also old trucks. All right, best get to the speaker up here and to get back behind the radio, obviously. So let’s go ahead and get started.

Interesting story, when I first bought this truck, I had a hell of a time trying to get it registered in New Mexico from Texas because I bought it in Texas. One of the problems was the VIN number, and for some reason, I’m not sure if all the ’85 or Bullnose trucks are like this. In this particular truck, you can’t see the VIN number and the dash plate through the windshield, and I suspect it’s because this is an aftermarket windshield, and it’s got this black border all the way around it. Now, maybe not, I’m not sure, but for whatever reason, you can’t see the VIN number from the outside. So I had to actually take this dash panel off, the top dash pad off, before I went to the DMV so that they could actually see the VIN by crawling into the truck and looking through the top.

So you don’t have to take all these screws out of here. I took a whole bunch of them out because I wasn’t sure which ones I had to take out, so just took a long, and that piece comes off real easy. And so there’s my radio, pretty rough. That’s actually going to be a problem. All righty then, uh, let’s see what we got here. Well, there’s a ground there. Ooh, is there no antenna adapter? There may not be an antenna adapter. I may have to go buy one of those. And here is the wiring harness, and that one there is cut. I’m not sure where that used to go to or what that does. Power, ground, and remote is here, and that’s what the harness is still there, but all of the speakers have been cut at some point, and I’m not sure if this center speaker is wired in. I’ll have to dig into that, open this up and take a look at it. And see, it also looks like I’m going to have to get a new mounting for this. If the original harness was back there, I could rewire it back in, but it’s not. He just cut this. Whatever the original harness was, he just cut it. Yeah, see, there’s four, these are the four speaker wires that went to the center speaker. He just cut them. He’s like, I need that, just cut them, which means I got to rewire them. He probably, he may even pulled them out. Who knows? Hell, he may have rewired this whole thing.

So first of all, I got to get the mount for this so this will go in here and mount correctly, and I got to wire these together. This has been rewired. Okay, guys, so let me talk briefly about the situation that I found here. When you’re working on an old vehicle like this, especially if you’re doing wiring, changing out the stereo is a prime example. You never know what you’re going to find. So the previous owner, at some point, whether it was the one before me or somebody even before him, looks like they wired this whole thing. So these speaker wires are not original to the truck. Looks like they’ve also disconnected this top speaker here completely, and here’s where you can see originally where it wired in, and they just cut them. They just cut those wires, and unfortunately, they didn’t leave me the old harness, so I don’t have a harness that I can plug into my harness piece that I bought from Amazon. Don’t do that, guys. Please, if you’re wiring a radio, don’t just cut the wires. Unplug the harness and leave the original harness. Go out and buy the correct harness adapter for your vehicle. They’re not expensive. They’re like 10 or $15 at the worst. That’ll save you so much time and energy, and anybody who comes behind you, it’s just a courtesy, you know?

Now this radio is probably changed 20 years ago, so who knows what they were thinking back then. But now what this means is not only do I have to rewire this top speaker completely, but I have to figure out what I’m going to do in terms of these speakers because do I just do like they did and just wire it directly into the speaker wires, or do I actually build a harness? In my case, I think I’m just going to wire it directly into the wires, and the reason is because I think when I upgrade the audio next time on this truck, which will be a serious upgrade, we’re talking amplifiers, crossovers, the whole bit, I will probably, excuse me, I will probably rewire all of these to be new wires. And so when I do that, I will build a harness when that happens. But for now, I just want to get this working, so I think I’m just going to go ahead and cut these and rewire them directly. The power and the ground and the remote are all still hooked up, so I’ve got the wiring harness for that that I can plug into the radio harness and do that on my bench.

In addition to the screws that you have on the front here, there’s also some screws back up in here in the air vent area. You got to be careful with these because you don’t want to drop them. This dash pad is slated for replacement too at some point, but that’s in the future. And then once you got all the screws, it just comes right out. Oh, yep, there are those wires you cut right there. Yeah, all right, we’ll get something in through there, and we can rewire this speaker. I want to save that because I might be able to use that. Is that this? Because if that’s this? Yeah, okay, all right, of course, here we go. Okay, is that this? It is this. All right, so that means that I can use this when I do my audio upgrade next time. I don’t have to worry about trying to find that harness somewhere. Let’s see how this works. Not bad. So this is clearly the original speaker. I can use this harness, so I’m going to use it. Interestingly, also, this is only a single voice coil speaker, so it’s never designed to have stereo. So no matter what I was going to do, I was going to have to rewire part of this. Well, it should sound way better. We’re going to find out.

So here’s the new one. It’s a D572 5×7 from Retro Sound. It’s dual voice coil, got left and right channels going into the same speaker. We’re going to see how it does. They are not paying me for this. I bought this with my own money. It’s the only one that I can find that was reasonably priced. I’m kind of excited to check it out. And there she is, my new center channel speaker. As you can see, it’s got a connection for both left and right, two separate tweeters there to do left and right channel. Now, obviously, you’re not going to get great stereo surround sound from this because it’s coming from the same location, but I’m hoping it’ll bounce off the window, the windshield, and give me a little bit of more full sound than what came from stock. So let’s see how it fits. Factory, pretty much. Now, obviously, I got to wire it, run new wires, and all that jazz. But yeah, as a matter of fact, it came with wires. I think I might just be able to use these. They may be long enough. Oh yeah, yeah, that’s what we’re doing. We’re using these. I just got to make sure that I mark them.

One nice thing about older vehicles is that the dash is way simpler than in new ones. Man, I know some of these newer trucks, you have to want to wire something from up top here down through the dash, you have to take half the dash apart, run it through the door panel, come back in. It’s not quite that bad, but there’s still, I got plenty of room back here, so I’m just going to keep this wire the same length. I’m not going to worry about cutting it. It’s just open all the way through here. There’s just nothing. Oh, 1980s, you were a fun time. All right, that’s good. Putting it back in was actually easier than taking it out, so cool, that’s in there. I am going to wire this. The front goes to the dash, and the rear goes to the doors, which is kind of odd, but I think in this truck, in this case, just the way I need to go.

All right, so real quick, guys, I’m going to go over the wiring. This is the radio that I bought, and this is the harness that I bought for the truck. And there’s only two wires that these two connect to. One is constant power, and one is switched power, and that’s it. So constant power is the yellow, switched power is the red. The black, the ground actually goes to a ground that’s inside the truck. It’s not part of the actual wiring harness that comes from the truck. You have to ground it to a wire that’s in the truck there, so I’ve got that plugged there. This is an antenna wire, which the ’85 doesn’t use, and also this is an antenna wire, and this is a dimmer wire, and the radio doesn’t use a dimmer. So all we got is just constant, switched, and ground, and I’m going to go into the truck and hook up the ground now.

So this is the ground that I was talking about that’s already in the truck. It’s just simply bolted to a chassis bolt back here. Well, not really chassis, but there’s some metal framing back in here, and that’s all it’s bolted to. And I know it works because it worked for the old radio. Most vehicles that I’ve worked on have a ground built into the wiring harness for the radio, but this one doesn’t.

All right, and with that, we should be ready to test it. Just for now, I got power. I got power. Try again. 29% financing for 60 months plus $1,000 bonus cash. Don’t miss the B-Tough sale. Oh, perfect. Okay, so I’m going to turn that down so you can hear me. So the screen is really dim. I don’t know if there’s a way to make it brighter or not. That’s just a thing. This screen is really kind of dim, so that is what it is. As far as sound goes, it actually sounds pretty good. Let me see if I can figure out how to pair a phone with it, and I will be right back.

There we go, BT on. Okay, does it work? My God, old school. She’s an ’85. Paint’s a little… um, yeah, that’s a preview of something that’s coming. Uh, yeah, hello? Hey, sorry, what’s up? Nothing, I’m just actually testing my hands-free calling in my truck, so how do I sound? Okay, yeah, you sound fine. Okay, cool. For she’s rated the radio.

All right, guys, so I figured something out. Got her all mounted up nice and tight into the bezel. Doesn’t move or rattle or nothing, and I don’t have to use a mounting plate that you would buy from Amazon or from O’Reilly’s or any of those auto part stores. This radio is light enough, this particular model is light enough that it will mount right into this without any problem. It’s still super light, right? And here’s how I did it, a little bit of down-home engineering. Okay, so the metal bracket that comes… Make sure you guys can see this. Yeah, you can. So the metal bracket that comes with the radio right here, right? If you, uh, it’s just slightly bigger than this. This bezel is just a little bit, but the radio front around here is also just slightly bigger. So what you can do is you can sandwich this in between this metal piece and the radio bezel itself right here. The problem is that this metal piece won’t move forward far enough to clip into here like it’s supposed to because this bezel here is too thick. So all I did was put a couple of screws in here on the top. Right now, you think, oh my God, don’t screw your radio. Well, the thing is that there’s so little electronics inside this thing that there’s plenty of room in here. These screws aren’t even touching any of the boards or electronics or anything inside the radio, and that holds the body of the radio from moving back and forth, right? It’s not going to move.

Okay, now here’s the other thing is that the radio is actually just a little bit too thin this way for this opening, so it slides up and down unless… uh, let me go get something real quick. I’ll be right back. Unless you put something in here to keep it from sliding up and down. So all I did was I put a piece of airline tubing that I use for my airbags in my other truck, slit it right in there. Okay, that goes up from down to up. Sorry, I got this in my mouth. See, it goes down and up and down, right? It moves. Well, take a piece of air hose, get it to the right size. It’s a little bit tight, which is what you want. You pop that in there, push it down, and now it’s black. It matches everything else, and this doesn’t move up or down at all. It is not going anywhere, and I can just pop that right back into the truck, and away we go. And this isn’t going to rattle on me or move, and when I go to push the button, that’s going to have nice solid feedback. Not to worry about it rattling or moving around on me. That is great. I had no idea it was going to turn out that way. I love when things like this happen.

So there you go, guys. If you happen to get this particular radio and you have this particular dash piece, you can do this the exact same way with just a couple of screws and some air tubing. The more you know.

All right, guys, here we are paired. Now you can see that the… you can’t really see it. It’s very, very dim right there. You can kind of see it. Let me turn it down a little bit. Okay, but that’s how it looks. I’m pretty happy with it. Obviously, you can’t hear it, but it sounds good, I think. So I’ve already used it to make a phone call, and according to the person on the other side, I sound pretty good. I’m imagining that this is the little microphone here. I have really no idea, but I would think so. Um, yeah, I mean, so the interface is not great. It’s got a lot of glare, and it’s really kind of hard to see, and the background illumination is nowhere near bright enough to see in the daytime. But for my purposes, I think it’s going to be fantastic for $15, and pretty simple installation is definitely worth the money and your time to do. I do think it looks nice. I love the look inside the truck. You know, I’m super happy with that. It’s so nice to have Bluetooth that I can listen to music on my phone now. I’ll probably never use the radio again, really, because the radio reception around here is not great anyway. So yeah, I’m super happy with that.

All right, guys, well there you go. Weekend project officially a success. Got everything put in. I’m really happy with it. I think for 15 bucks, you can’t go wrong. Yeah, it’s got a couple of issues, but man, it’s $15. It works pretty good. It installs super simple. It’s a huge upgrade for me. Bluetooth hands-free calling, yeah, definitely worth it. The front speakers that I put in, the JVCs, they’re pretty nice. They sound really good for $25. They can’t be beat. And then that dash speaker, you know, I’ll have to listen to that for a while and figure it out. Right now, it sounds really good, but I didn’t have one hooked up before, so anything I put in there is going to sound better than that. But yeah, I don’t know if it’s worth the 80 bucks I spent on it, but we’re going to find out. Regardless, it sounds way better in here. So, guys, hopefully you learned something today. I know it’s a simple radio installation, and a thousand guys do them. There’s probably videos all over YouTube, but this one’s mine. At least you get a chance to see one of those vintage radios in action, the really, really cheap ones from Amazon. Yeah, I think it’s probably worth it. So, uh, yeah, if you got any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No G, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next next time.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage. Today, I’ve got a little experiment for you: installing a $15 stereo in my ’85 Ford F-150. Yep, you read that right—fifteen bucks! We’re talking Bluetooth and hands-free calling for the price of a couple of lattes. But is it any good, or am I just setting myself up for a weekend of frustration? Let’s find out together.

Unboxing the $15 Wonder

First impressions? This head unit is so light and plain-looking that I half-expected it to float away. There’s not even a picture of it on the box. It’s supposed to be a retro-style unit with Bluetooth capabilities, but at this weight, I’m wondering if there’s anything inside at all. But hey, it’s $15, so why not see if it can at least play some tunes from my phone?

Speaker Setup: Mixing Budget with Quality

I paired this bargain bin head unit with a dual-voice coil dash speaker from Retro Manufacturing, which is specifically designed for old vehicles with a single dash speaker setup. At nearly 80 bucks, this speaker is the most expensive part of this project. I also picked up some JVC 6.5-inch door speakers from Amazon, the cheapest I could find. The dash speaker is supposed to handle both left and right channels, so expect a bit more sound depth than a single mono speaker.

Getting Down to Business: Door Panel Removal

Let’s jump into the nitty-gritty. Taking off the door panel is pretty straightforward—just a couple of screws and some door clips. If you’re working on an old truck like this, breakage is almost a given, so stock up on those clips. Nothing adds to the cacophony of a classic truck like a flapping door panel.

Inside the door, I found some aftermarket Polk speakers that aren’t half bad, but since I’m redoing the system, I decided to swap them out. Always a good idea to replace these with speakers you know the specs of, so you’re not worrying about overloading them.

The Wiring Adventure

The real fun begins with the wiring. If you’ve never installed a stereo, it’s as simple as matching positive and negative wires—unless you’re dealing with a previous owner’s wiring mess. Turns out, my truck had a history of DIY jobs, including cut wires and missing harnesses. If you’re new to this, do yourself a favor and don’t cut the harness; buy the right adapter instead.

After some wire swapping and a lot of head-scratching, I got the speaker wiring sorted out. And yes, my first instinct was correct—a wiring issue, not the speaker.

Dash Speaker and Radio Installation

With the door speakers sorted, it was time to tackle the dash speaker and the head unit. The dash pad came off, revealing another wiring mystery. The previous owner had cut the wires to the center speaker. No harness left to plug into, so I had to get creative.

The new Retro Sound speaker fit nicely, and despite being a single unit, it handles both left and right channels. Sure, it’s not going to give you surround sound, but it’s a major upgrade from the old system. Wiring it up was straightforward enough, once I made my peace with the cut wires.

Mounting the Head Unit: Down-Home Engineering

Here’s where some good old-fashioned ingenuity came into play. The head unit was slightly too small for the dash opening, so I rigged it with some screws and a piece of air line tubing to keep it steady. It fits snugly now—no rattles, no worries.

Testing and Final Thoughts

Once I had everything hooked up, it was time for the moment of truth. Surprisingly, this $15 wonder wasn’t half bad. The screen is a bit dim, and the interface is nothing to write home about, but for the price, the sound quality exceeded my expectations. Bluetooth works, hands-free calling is decent, and I can finally stream my music on the go.

All in all, this budget setup won’t win any awards, but it’s a huge upgrade for my old truck. If you’re looking for a quick and cheap stereo solution, this might just be worth your time. Got questions, comments, or gripes? Drop them below. See you next time, and happy tinkering!


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Published on October 6, 2020

Click to play the video inline  or  see it on YouTube

Part of the The Bullnose F-150 series.
Part of the Tips & Tricks series.

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Show Transcript

Hey folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today we are on the way to, uh, pick up some parts. Anybody who’s done any vehicle restoration, especially of an older vehicle, knows that parts are very important. In fact, they’re one of the hardest parts of restoring a vehicle. So actually, the parts that I’m going to pick up today are some interior parts for the inside of the Bullnose: um, door pillars, visors, and actually, uh, the whole dash piece. It’s not the gauge or any of the trim, but it’s the actual dash, big plastic piece itself. And, uh, you can’t find those. You can’t buy them online anymore. They don’t even reproduce them. So the only place to get them is from old vehicles. And I happen to have somebody here in town who does sort of the same thing that I do, and he goes out and gets old vehicles, tears them down, strips them for parts, and then sells those parts on Facebook Marketplace, which is where I found him. And he’s already got the parts to our part. All I got to do is go pick them up. So that’s what I’m doing now.

As anybody who’s done an old vehicle restoration can tell you, sometimes the hardest thing is parts. In fact, I would wager a guess that the hardest thing is parts. Not just sometimes. A lot of these old vehicles, some parts you can get reproduced, but a lot of them you can’t. Again, in my case, I can’t find these door pillars, and the ones in my truck aren’t that bad, but they’re cracked. And if I wanted to try to repair that, I’d have to, I don’t know, do some plastic work or fiberglass or something, and I don’t want to do that. It’s much easier for me to find the parts that come out of another truck. Now, you can sometimes go online to find these parts, places like LMC Truck for this particular truck or CarParts.com, used to be JC Whitney. Sometimes you can get them from eBay. Sometimes you can get them from Amazon, although you don’t usually get the older parts from Amazon. But so far, my best resource has actually been the guy I’m going to see right now.

So if you can somehow forge a relationship with somebody in your area that has the kind of part that you need, then you’re golden. You can always go to a pull-apart. In my area, there’s not a whole lot of pull-aparts around. Now, there’s a lot of yards that have old vehicles, but they don’t advertise, and you have to just kind of drive up and hope that somebody’s there. And the pull-apart parts don’t tend to have vehicles that are as old as my Bullnose. Sometimes they do, but you got to get in there really quick. So again, I have found that the best place really is Facebook Marketplace. Another great option that you have, and one that I will almost certainly use, is finding a parts vehicle. That is, finding a vehicle that is the same general make and model as the one that you’re trying to restore. In my case, it’s an ’80 to an ’86 F-150, 250, 350, or maybe a Bronco. Finding one that’s going for a cheap price because either it doesn’t run or it’s got some other kind of a mechanical issue, and you load that thing up on a trailer, you tow it home, and then you can scavenge the parts that you need out of that. In a lot of cases, that’s going to be about the only place that you can find the kind of parts that you’re going to need. And if you’ve got a vehicle that’s more or less complete that way, then you can pull everything off of it, and then whatever you don’t need, you can sell.

For me, I’m both lucky and unlucky to live where I live. I live in the Southwest, so vehicles don’t really rot down here. They last forever. You know, the truck that I have is from ’85, doesn’t have a spot of rust on it. A whole lot of vehicles you see driving around are really old and vintage because they just don’t rust down here. But that does mean that the interiors wear out, and also especially the dashes get cracked really bad because the sun shines in and just destroys any kind of plastic or anything really down here that the UV can get. You know, especially on the older vehicles that don’t have the same UV protection in the glass that the newer vehicles do. So it’s sort of a double-edged sword. I can find great bodies and great frames, really nice metal parts, but all the plastic is just destroyed, and a lot of the trim on the outside of the vehicles is also that way, also destroyed by the sun. So it kind of depends on where you live as to what you can find and what you can’t in a junkyard or from a local dealer. And that’s where you may have to go on to eBay. But what’s nice is that if you live in a place like the Southwest where I could find a great body, maybe not such great interior bits, but a great body, then what I can do is I can pull off the parts that I need and then turn around and sell the parts that are nice that I don’t need because my other vehicle is also nice. I can sell those on eBay to somebody from the North who needs rust-free parts, and that just gives me more money to play with.

Let’s take a look at some of the parts that I got, and I’ll use them to kind of go over some of the things that I think are going to be important to finding parts for older vehicles or for restoration vehicles. So we’ll start with these door pillars. These are the door pillars that I got from that guy locally. They look pretty good on first inspection. They’re the same color as the interior of my truck, and the pictures online look fantastic. But if you look real close, I’m not sure you can see this or not, but there’s a crack right there, and that’s exactly the same that the door pillars in my truck are cracked. And that’s the entire reason I went to go pick these up was because I needed to find a way to get that crack fixed. And the easiest way is to find old stock, so that’s something to note. One thing is understand that if you find old parts in a junkyard or from someone on Facebook in a vehicle that’s already been on the road, it’s gonna be used. There’s nothing you can do about that. The pictures on Facebook aren’t going to pick this stuff up. As a matter of fact, I didn’t even really notice it until I got home. Now, it was still a good price, so I don’t regret buying it because it’s always good to have a backup, which is another good tip. Always have a backup of the parts, especially parts that you can’t find anywhere else because if I want to try to maybe paint this or fix this with some super glue or some epoxy or something, I can do that, and if I screw it up, I’ve still got my original. It’s in my truck, so that’s not a big deal.

One thing to note about parts that you can’t find online and you have to go somewhere to get, like an older truck or an older vehicle, is that a lot of these parts always fail the same way. For example, these here, this crack right there, this one here, exact same crack in the exact same place, and both of my pillars in my truck have cracks in this exact same way, in this exact same place. So a lot of these parts fail the exact same way, whether it’s a weak design or just the way that people take them on and put them off. For whatever reason, a lot of parts tend to fail the same way, so be on the lookout for that.

Another part that I got was these visors. Now, these visors actually are in quite a bit better shape than the ones that I have in my truck. And again, what’s great about these is that if I need to, I could probably take this all apart and redo it. You know, I don’t know if you reupholster visors, but put new coverings on them. And then if I screw them up, well, I’m only out the money that I use to buy this stuff, so, and it wasn’t that much. I got a good deal on it.

The last thing that I got was this interior complete interior dash piece, which is nice because it’s got the glove box, it’s got the AC vents, it’s got the entire AC duct work behind it. Now, it’s got the environmental controls, but these don’t match my truck because this one’s got a selector switch for front and rear gas tank, and my truck’s only got one gas tank, so I can’t use this. But I might be able to pull this off and sell it, or even in the condition that this one’s in, probably more likely give it to somebody who’s going to need it, and then I can forge a friendship with someone who needs the same kind of parts that I do.

Another good thing to note, which I don’t have an example for here, although the AC unit controls here is kind of an example of this, is just because the part fits a year that comes off of your vehicle or a generation, maybe the same truck. For example, I believe these parts probably came out of a Bronco, which is the same generation as my truck and generally has the same interior pieces. But just because they came off the exact same vehicle, the exact same year, doesn’t necessarily mean that they’re going to fit. So you got to make sure that you buy parts that you know are going to fit your vehicle. So these parts that you need, just, yeah, if you need to take them off your vehicle first and inspect them to make sure that they’re the right fit. You could, uh, a lot of times these parts have part numbers on the back. I don’t know if you can see that right there, but there’s part numbers right there, and those part numbers will tell you exactly what part you’re looking for. So always be, uh, cognizant of that. That just because it comes off a vehicle the same make and model and maybe even same year doesn’t always mean that it’s going to fit. On the other hand, some parts from vehicles of a completely different generation may fit yours. So for example, this is an ’85 F-150. The generation goes from ’80 to ’86, but the following generation of trucks from ’87 to ’91, a lot of times parts and pieces from those trucks will fit directly into this truck. Parts of the chassis, parts of the suspension, the interior parts like seats, that kind of stuff sometimes just a basically direct swap.

So learn in your vehicle what different generations parts are interchangeable. A lot of times, uh, especially, you know, for this truck here, there’s a site called Gary’s Garage Mahal that has a lot of interchangeability information, and, uh, those sites are really invaluable. So if you can find a site like that that has interchangeability information for your vehicle to other vehicles of the same make and model but different generations, that’s a great resource when you do find parts that are hard to find for your vehicles. And if you can get a good deal on them, even if they’re not perfect, you may want to go ahead and grab them because there’s a lot of ways that you can refinish parts like this. Even with the crack, you know, I could super glue this crack. I could perhaps put some epoxy in here. Um, I could repaint this whole thing, and if you get textured spray paint, then you cover this up and never even know the crack was there. And as long as you seal the crack well enough so that it doesn’t reappear when you put your screw in, then you’re good. You could put fabric over top of this. I’ve looked at doing maybe some canvas or some other kind of fabric that you can get some spray adhesive and spray on and then roll on top of this. And again, if I’ve got an extra piece and I screw it up, oh well, I’ve got the original still in my truck. Pieces like these visors, you could cover these with basically whatever you wanted. I could go get some denim and cover them with denim. You can make the look in your vehicle whatever you want. Now, unless you’re going for specifically the OE original equipment look, then your options are more limited. But I’m not really doing that. I’m just kind of going for what I think looks cool, so I could cover these with anything I want.

Another option that you have, especially for plastic parts, is to dip them. So I may, I’m not sure yet, but I might dip my dash. Dipping is a really cool procedure where you have a film that goes on top of a tub of water, and you dip a plastic part into the film, and the film attaches to the plastic and then wraps around it. If you’ve never seen any videos of it, it’s really cool. You should check that out. I’m definitely thinking about maybe doing that for some parts in my dash.

So I talked earlier about how I got these parts from Facebook Marketplace, and there’s a reason why Facebook Marketplace is my favorite place to get old parts. We’ll get into that in just a little bit, but before I do, let’s go over some of the places where you can get new parts for trucks, especially like the ’85 F-150 behind me. So you can go to LMC Truck. It’s lmctruck.com. They’ve got parts for Ford, Chevy, GMC, Dodge, all these different kind of older trucks, and they’re a fantastic place to get whatever parts you can that are reproduced. You can usually find them at LMC. You can also go to Rock Auto. Rock Auto is a good place to get, uh, automotive parts, more mechanical parts. Usually, you can go to CarParts.com, it’s formerly JC Whitney. I’ve already said that. Of course, eBay is a fairly decent place to get parts, especially you can get new or used parts from eBay. eBay is the place where I would go to sell parts if I parted out a vehicle because you could also go to Craigslist, but your local area usually, especially in a smaller area like I live, you don’t have a lot of options to sell especially specialty parts for older vehicles. So eBay is usually your best bet there. It’s also your best bet to find those parts because of that same reason. You can go to Amazon. Amazon sells basically everything except for old used parts you can’t find anywhere else. Um, of course, there’s the old standbys: AutoZone, O’Reilly’s, Napa, those kind of places, but you’re probably not going to find vintage parts there. That’s for things like, you know, oil filters and spark plugs, that kind of stuff. Um, if you’re doing a performance build, then you can look at places like Summit Racing or Jegs to get your performance parts. And, uh, there’s always, again, the option of going to a pick-apart, although I’m not a huge fan of pick-a-parts. Again, because the ones around here especially don’t have vehicles that really match the years and generations that I’m looking for. And then you have to bring a bunch of tools with you. You’ve got to go into the yard. Sometimes it’s muddy and dirty and nasty and disgusting. You got to crawl around, and you have to know, which is kind of a downside for me, is you have to know how to get to the part that you want. I’m a rank amateur at this stuff, so even though I know where the part is and what the part is, it may be hard for me out in the field to know exactly how to get it out. And I don’t necessarily want to go take a Sawzall to somebody’s, you know, junk or truck, even though it’s a junker truck, just to get the part that I need. So I tend not to go to pick-a-parts unless I really, really need a specific part that I can’t find anywhere else. And then, of course, like I said before, there is Facebook.

So let me give you an idea of why I think Facebook is really, right now, as of October 2020, the best place to find some of these old parts. Now, the complaint that I had earlier about Craigslist was that it’s only good for the local area, and you may say, ‘Well, Ed, that’s the same problem with Facebook Marketplace.’ You only get results from your local area, and that’s true. You do only get results from your local area. But Facebook has something that you really should take advantage of if you’re restoring an older vehicle, and that’s Facebook groups. Because I guarantee you, no matter what vehicle you’re trying to restore, there is a Facebook group for your vehicle. There is at least half a dozen Facebook groups for this truck right behind me. There’s a Bullnose group, there’s a Ford truck group, there’s a group for the engine that I’m using, there’s probably a group for whether or not the truck is lifted, there’s a group probably for the color of the truck. I don’t know if that’s true or not, but there’s a group basically for anything, and there’s new groups being started all the time on Facebook. If you join these groups, you’re going to get together with a bunch of people who are like-minded, who have the same sort of passion for that vehicle that you do, and they probably know collectively way more than you’ll ever know. Even if you’re an expert, you can always ask the group questions to get answers to, you know, whatever problems you may be facing with your vehicle. And if you’re looking for a specific part, nobody’s going to know how to find that part better than this humongous group of people who work specifically on that kind of truck out of a passion for that. Well, I said truck, but whatever vehicle it is, right? I deal with trucks, so I say truck. But, you know, in my case, if I was looking for, for instance, the trim. Now, I’ve got a chrome trim around my wheel wells here, but there are a lot of these F-150s and Broncos that have trim up on the side or they come down a little bit further down, and a lot of that trim they don’t reproduce, and it’s almost impossible to find. Trucks that did have that trim a lot of times didn’t survive, and the ones that did have the trim and did survive, the trim can be in really bad shape. So maybe somebody removed it. Trucks like that in a junkyard, the guys that know that this trim is worth a lot of money go and scavenge that trim pretty much right away. If you need that kind of a trim or that kind of a part for your vehicle, the only place that you’re going to be able to find it with any kind of reliability is going to be these groups. Now, you may have to pay a pretty penny for it, but I have been shocked at the number of times that I have seen someone ask for a part that is incredibly rare or incredibly strange or something I’ve never even knew came standard on some of these trucks, and I’m thinking, ‘Man, they’re never going to find that part.’ And within a couple of hours, somebody responds and says, ‘Yeah, I got one of those in my shed. I got one of those in my garage. PM me and we’ll get together.’ That stuff happens all the time. So if you’re restoring a vehicle and you’re looking for these parts, join a group. Join a group on Facebook. Even if you don’t have a Facebook, I mean, who doesn’t have a Facebook? But even if you don’t have a Facebook, it’s worth joining Facebook just for one of these groups. Learn how to use it. Learn how to do it because if there’s a part you’re looking for specifically, that’s where you’re going to find it, is one of these Facebook groups.

There you go, guys. Parts, you need them, you want them, you got to have them, and those are the only ways that I know how to get them. Now, I’m sure there are other ways, and if you know other ways or better ways, please let me know. Drop it in the comments, send me a private message, whatever you got to do, and I’ll, you know, make a video about it later. But yeah, let me know what your best way to get parts are. For me, these are the ways that I know how to get them. So as I said before, parts for these old vehicles, sometimes they’re the hardest part. Now come on, I’m a new dad. I gotta be able to make dad jokes. That’s just part of who I am now. So if you don’t like puns, you’re probably on the wrong channel. All right, guys, as always, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, and we’ll see you next time.

Hey folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage! Today, we’re diving into a topic that every classic vehicle enthusiast knows all too well: hunting down those elusive parts for your restoration project. If you’ve ever spilled your coffee while scouring eBay listings or missed dinner because you were crawling through a pick-a-part yard, this one’s for you.

The Hunt for Classic Parts

Restoring an older vehicle is like a treasure hunt, except the treasure is buried under layers of rust and nostalgia. Parts for these classics can be elusive, and when you do find them, they might be marked up like gourmet caviar. For my Bullnose project, I’m on the lookout for interior parts: door pillars, visors, and a whole dash piece. These aren’t parts you can just click and ship from Amazon; they require a bit more detective work.

Scavenging and Networking

The first rule of parts hunting? Network like you’re at a speed dating event. I’ve got a local connection who strips down old vehicles and sells the parts on Facebook Marketplace. This guy’s a lifesaver since the parts I need aren’t reproduced anymore. In fact, the dash piece I need isn’t available online. So, I’ve got to hunt down old stock from similar vehicles.

Facebook Marketplace is a goldmine for finding these parts. It’s like a swap meet on steroids. And if you can buddy up with someone local who shares your interests, you’re halfway there. Remember, your local pull-apart yard might not have what you need, especially if you’re dealing with an ’80 to ’86 F-150 like mine.

Parts Vehicles: A Restorer’s Best Friend

If you’re serious about restoring an old truck, consider finding a parts vehicle. It’s not just a donor; it’s a treasure chest of potential. Grab a non-running F-150 or Bronco, and you’ll have a wealth of parts at your disposal. Plus, anything you don’t use, you can sell to fund more parts. It’s like turning your hobby into a mini business.

Geography and Its Impact on Parts

Living in the Southwest is a mixed blessing. The dry climate means less rust, but the sun wreaks havoc on interiors. Plastic parts, especially dashes, are often cracked and brittle. But hey, at least the frames and metal parts are in good shape. If you’re in a rust-prone area, consider trading with someone from a dry climate. Your rusty frame might be their perfect interior match.

Inspect Before You Buy

Caution: parts you find may be cracked, worn, or otherwise imperfect. Inspect them thoroughly—you might not notice a crack until you get home. But fear not, having a backup is always a smart move. You can always experiment with repairs, knowing you have a fallback.

The Joy of Facebook Groups

Now, let’s talk about the unsung heroes of parts hunting: Facebook Groups. For every classic model, there’s a community of aficionados ready to help. These groups are invaluable. Whether you’re seeking a rare trim piece or obscure engine component, these folks have your back. And don’t be surprised when someone pulls a rabbit out of their hat and finds that part you thought was extinct.

Creative Solutions and Repairs

When you can’t find a pristine part, sometimes you have to get creative. Cracked plastics can be glued, epoxied, or even repainted. If you’re feeling adventurous, consider dipping parts to give them a new life. There’s a world of DIY fixes out there, so don’t be afraid to experiment.

Online Resources and Retailers

For new parts, there are several online retailers worth checking out: LMC Truck, Rock Auto, CarParts.com, and of course, eBay for both new and used parts. Summit Racing and Jegs are also great for performance upgrades. But remember, some parts just can’t be found new, and that’s where your sleuthing skills come in.

Wrap-Up

So there you have it, a crash course in finding parts for your classic truck. Whether you’re cruising Facebook Marketplace or bartering in a Facebook group, remember that patience and persistence pay off. Let me know your parts-hunting strategies in the comments. And as always, thanks for tuning in. Catch you next time!

Now, go check out the video above and let me know what you think. Happy wrenching!


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