Tag Ford truck parts

What should I consider when replacing the alternator in my 1984 Ford F150 XLT?


Bullnose Bill explaining alternator replacement for 1984 F150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Replacing the alternator on your ’84 F150 XLT with the 351 H.O. is a pretty straightforward task, but it does require some careful steps to ensure everything goes smoothly. Here’s a detailed guide to help you out:

Tools and Parts You’ll Need:

  • New alternator (ensure it’s compatible with your 351 H.O.)
  • Basic socket set and wrenches
  • Screwdriver
  • Belt tensioner tool or a pry bar
  • Multimeter (optional but useful for testing)
  • Safety gloves and goggles

Steps to Replace the Alternator:

1. Safety First:

  • Disconnect the battery. Always start by removing the negative terminal to prevent any electrical shorts or shocks.

2. Remove the Belt:

  • Use a belt tensioner tool or a pry bar to release tension from the serpentine belt. Carefully slip the belt off the alternator pulley. Make a note of the belt routing or take a picture to ensure correct reinstallation.

3. Disconnect Wiring:

  • Remove the electrical connections from the back of the alternator. This usually includes a primary power cable and a smaller connector for the voltage regulator. Take care not to damage the connectors.

4. Unbolt the Alternator:

  • Locate the bolts securing the alternator to the engine bracket. There are typically two or three bolts to remove. Support the alternator as you take out the last bolt to prevent it from dropping.

5. Install the New Alternator:

  • Position the new alternator in place and hand-tighten the bolts. Make sure it’s aligned properly before fully tightening the bolts.

6. Reconnect Wiring:

  • Attach the wiring connectors to the new alternator, ensuring they’re secure and properly connected.

7. Reinstall the Belt:

  • Refer to your belt routing note or picture, and slip the belt back over the alternator pulley. Use the belt tensioner tool or pry bar to apply tension and make sure the belt is seated correctly across all pulleys.

8. Reconnect the Battery:

  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal and ensure it’s snug.

9. Test the Alternator:

  • Start the engine and use a multimeter to check the voltage at the battery terminals. You should see around 13.5 to 14.5 volts if the alternator is charging correctly.

Pro Tips:

  • Double-Check Compatibility: Ensure that your replacement alternator matches the amperage rating of the original. This is crucial for the electrical system’s proper functioning.
  • Inspect the Belt: While you have the belt off, check it for cracks or wear. Now’s a great time to replace it if needed.
  • Check Connections: Make sure all wiring is tight and corrosion-free to prevent future electrical issues.

If you run into any trouble or need more visual guidance, there might be helpful tutorials on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. Keep those classics running smooth!


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User:

What should I look for at AutoZone for my alternator?

Bill avatar
Bill:

When you’re heading to AutoZone or any auto parts store, you’ll want to make sure you get the right alternator for your 1984 F150 XLT with the 351 H.O. engine. Here’s what you should have on your checklist:

Key Information to Provide:

  1. Vehicle Details:

    • Year: 1984
    • Make: Ford
    • Model: F150 XLT
    • Engine: 351 H.O.
  2. Current Alternator Specs:

    • If you know the amperage rating of your current alternator (usually between 60-100 amps for old trucks), mention it. It should be visible on a label or in your vehicle’s manual.

What to Ask For:

  • Direct Replacement Alternator: Request an alternator that matches your truck’s OEM specifications.
  • Warranty: Check if the alternator comes with a warranty. Many parts stores offer lifetime warranties on alternators, which is a nice backup.
  • Core Charge: Be prepared for a core charge, which is refundable when you return your old alternator. Don’t forget to bring your old alternator back to get this refund.

Optional Add-ons:

  • Serpentine Belt: If your current belt shows any signs of wear, now might be a good time to replace it.
  • Belt Tensioner: Check the tensioner for any play or noise, and replace it if needed.

Pro Tip:

Have the store test your old alternator to confirm it’s the problem. Many auto parts stores offer free testing services for alternators and batteries, which can save you from replacing a part unnecessarily.

This should make your trip to AutoZone smooth and efficient. Happy wrenching!

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User:

Since it’s the original alternator, should I assume it needs replacing?

Bill avatar
Bill:

If you’re dealing with the original alternator on your ’84 F150 and it’s been giving you trouble, replacement is often a good call. These components do wear out over time due to the stress of keeping everything powered while you’re out cruising.

However, before you commit to replacing it, consider a couple of diagnostic steps:

Diagnostic Steps:

  1. Visual Inspection:

    • Check for obvious signs of wear or damage, like frayed wires, cracked housing, or loose connections.
  2. Performance Symptoms:

    • Look for symptoms like dimming headlights, battery warning light on the dash, or difficulty starting, which can all indicate a failing alternator.
  3. Voltage Test:

    • Use a multimeter to test the battery voltage with the engine running. As mentioned earlier, a healthy charging system should show 13.5 to 14.5 volts. If it’s significantly lower, the alternator might be on its last legs.
  4. Belt and Tension:

    • Ensure the belt driving the alternator is in good shape and properly tensioned. A slipping belt can mimic alternator failure.

Considerations:

  • Longevity: Alternators can last a long time, but if yours is original, it’s probably due for replacement anyway.
  • Preventative Maintenance: Replacing an aging alternator can prevent getting stranded somewhere inconvenient.

If the diagnostics point toward the alternator, replacing it makes sense. And hey, if it is still the original, there’s a good chance a new one will offer better performance and reliability. If you’re uncertain, you can always have the alternator bench-tested at a parts store to be sure.

Good luck with your decision, and feel free to ask more questions if you need!

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User:

I have the Duralast remanufactured alternator; what’s next?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great choice! Duralast remanufactured alternators are a solid option and typically come with a decent warranty for peace of mind. Now that you have it, here’s a quick checklist to make sure your installation goes smoothly:

Installation Quick Checklist:

  1. Compare the Parts:

    • Before installing, compare the new alternator with the old one to ensure it’s an exact match in terms of mounting points, pulley type, and electrical connections.
  2. Inspect the Belt:

    • Check the condition of your serpentine belt. If it’s showing signs of wear, consider replacing it now to save some hassle later.
  3. Keep It Clean:

    • Make sure the mounting area is clean and free of debris. A clean surface ensures a solid ground connection.
  4. Tighten Securely:

    • When mounting the new alternator, ensure all bolts are tightened to the correct torque specifications. You don’t want any wobble or misalignment.
  5. Connect Properly:

    • Reattach all electrical connectors securely. Double-check that the connections are tight and free of corrosion.
  6. Check Your Work:

    • Once everything is back together, start the engine and check the voltage at the battery again. You should see a healthy reading of 13.5 to 14.5 volts.
  7. Test Drive:

    • Take your truck for a short drive to make sure everything is operating smoothly. Keep an eye on the battery light and listen for unusual noises.

If you run into any issues or uncertainties during the swap, don’t hesitate to reach out. Enjoy the improved reliability with your new alternator!

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User:

What do the instructions about the regulator mean?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Ah, the voltage regulator—an important piece of the puzzle when dealing with older vehicles like your ’84 F150. Here’s how it comes into play with your alternator replacement:

Understanding the Voltage Regulator:

  1. Purpose:

    • The voltage regulator controls the amount of voltage sent from the alternator to the battery. It ensures that the battery and electrical system don’t get overcharged.
  2. Location:

    • On older Fords, the voltage regulator is often an external component mounted on the fender or firewall. However, some alternators come with an internal regulator, meaning it’s integrated into the alternator itself.

What to Do:

If Your New Alternator Has an Internal Regulator:

  • Bypass the External Regulator:
    • You’ll need to bypass or disconnect the external regulator. This involves connecting the wires directly that used to run through it. Look for specific instructions from the alternator manufacturer.

If Your New Alternator Requires the Existing External Regulator:

  • Inspect the Regulator:

    • Check the condition of your existing external regulator. If it’s old or malfunctioning, consider replacing it to ensure consistent charging.
  • Wiring Connections:

    • Make sure to connect everything according to the wiring diagram for your truck. Correct connections are crucial for proper operation.

Pro Tips:

  • Check Compatibility: Double-check whether your specific alternator model requires modifications for compatibility with your existing system.
  • Use Quality Parts: If replacing the regulator, opt for a quality unit to avoid future headaches.
  • Consult the Manual: Refer to any specific instructions that came with your new alternator for details on handling the regulator.

If you’re uncertain or if the instructions are unclear, it might be worth checking for a video guide on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel or asking for advice on the Bullnose Ford subreddit. These resources can often provide additional clarity and visual assistance.

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User:

Is the external regulator expensive to replace?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Fortunately, external voltage regulators for these old Ford trucks are generally pretty affordable. You’re looking at spending around $20 to $50 for a good quality external regulator. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

Cost Considerations:

  1. Brand and Quality:

    • Prices can vary slightly based on the brand and the quality of the part. Stick with reputable brands to ensure reliability and longevity.
  2. Auto Parts Store vs. Online:

    • You might find different pricing if you compare local auto parts stores with online retailers. Sometimes online options are cheaper, but factor in shipping time and costs.
  3. Warranty:

    • Check if the regulator comes with a warranty, which offers extra peace of mind in case of early failure.

Replacement Tips:

  • Easy Access:

    • The external regulator is normally easy to access, making installation straightforward.
  • Check Wiring:

    • While you’re at it, inspect the wiring and connectors. Corroded or damaged wiring can cause issues even with a new regulator.
  • Test the Old Regulator:

    • If you’re still unsure whether the regulator is the problem, you can have it tested by a parts store before buying a replacement.

Switching out the external voltage regulator can be a good preventative measure if you’re working on the alternator and your current regulator is original or showing signs of age. If you have any more questions or need guidance, feel free to ask!

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User:

Is it a problem if I don’t replace the regulator since the alternator is working fine?

Bill avatar
Bill:

If your current external voltage regulator is working fine and you’ve confirmed it’s keeping the voltage in check, you might not need to replace it right now. However, here are a few things to consider:

Considerations for Keeping the Old Regulator:

  1. Condition Check:

    • As long as it’s functioning correctly and doesn’t show signs of damage or corrosion, it’s reasonable to continue using it.
  2. Monitor Performance:

    • Just keep an eye on the charging system’s performance. If you start noticing inconsistent voltage readings or symptoms like dimming lights, it might be time to revisit the idea of replacement.
  3. Preventative Maintenance:

    • Regulators do wear out over time. Replacing it as a preventative measure can save you from unexpected issues down the road.

Pro Tips:

  • Carry a Spare: If you’re concerned about potential failure, consider keeping a spare regulator in the glove box. It’s an inexpensive part and easy to swap if needed.
  • Regular Testing: Periodically check your charging system’s voltage to ensure everything remains in spec.

It’s all about balancing cost and convenience. If your regulator is doing its job, you’re probably good for now. But having a backup plan doesn’t hurt, especially if you’re planning on taking long trips in your Bullnose. If you need more help or have further questions, just holler!

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User:

I installed the alternator, but the belt pulley is twisted; what should I do?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Ah, sounds like you’ve run into one of those classic alignment issues. When the pulley isn’t lining up correctly with the belt, it can cause all kinds of headaches. Let’s walk through what you can do to sort it out:

Troubleshooting Pulley Misalignment:

  1. Check the Mounting:

    • Ensure that the alternator is seated properly in its bracket and all bolts are tightened down evenly. Sometimes, slight misalignment in mounting can cause the pulley to sit off-kilter.
  2. Inspect the Belt:

    • Make sure the belt is routed correctly and hasn’t slipped off any other pulleys. A twisted belt can sometimes be traced back to misrouting.
  3. Pulley Alignment:

    • Look at the pulley alignment with the others in the system. It should be parallel and in the same plane as the crankshaft and accessory pulleys. If not, see if the alternator can be adjusted or if washers need to be added or removed.
  4. Check Pulley Condition:

    • Inspect the pulley itself for any warping or damage. If it’s bent, it might need to be replaced.
  5. Use a Straightedge:

    • Place a straightedge along the pulleys to better visualize any misalignment. This can help pinpoint which side might need adjusting.

Pro Tips:

  • Bracket Inspection: Ensure that the bracket isn’t bent or damaged. A slightly bent bracket can throw off the entire alignment.

  • Shimming: Sometimes, adding a washer or shim between the alternator and bracket can bring it into alignment. Just be sure it’s secure.

  • Belt Tension: Make sure the belt tension is correct. Too tight or too loose can exacerbate alignment issues.

If you’ve gone through these steps and the pulley is still twisted, there might be something more specific going on with your setup. But this should give you a good starting point. If you hit a wall, you might find additional insights via the Bullnose Garage channel or in the Bullnose Ford subreddit. Keep at it, and you’ll have it sorted in no time!

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User:

I meant the belt is twisted; how can I fix this issue?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Got it, a twisted belt is a different beast but still important to address. Let’s dive into how to fix that:

Fixing a Twisted Belt:

  1. Check Belt Routing:

    • Carefully inspect the routing of the belt to ensure it’s following the correct path across all pulleys. A common cause for a twist is the belt being off by one groove or misrouted.
  2. Inspect the Belt:

    • Remove the belt and check it for any worn spots, cracks, or signs of damage. A damaged belt can twist more easily. If it’s worn, consider replacing it with a new one.
  3. Reseat the Belt:

    • Once you’re sure of the correct routing, carefully reinstall the belt, ensuring it’s seated properly in each pulley groove.
  4. Adjust Belt Tension:

    • Make sure the belt tension is set correctly. A belt that’s too loose can slip and twist over time, while one that’s too tight can put strain on components.
  5. Pulley Alignment:

    • Re-check that all pulleys are aligned properly and that none are bent or damaged, as this can cause the belt to twist as well.

Pro Tips:

  • Belt Tensioner: If your setup uses a tensioner, make sure it’s working as it should. A faulty tensioner can lead to improper belt tension.

  • Visual Guide: If you’re unsure about the belt routing, a service manual or even a diagram under the hood can be a lifesaver.

  • Belt Quality: If replacing, go for a reputable brand to ensure longevity and performance.

Getting your belt back in shape will ensure your alternator and other accessories run smoothly. If these steps don’t resolve the twist, there might be a deeper issue, so feel free to reach back out. Good luck getting that belt straightened out!

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User:

There’s no tensioner, and we’re unsure if the part is right. It had a single groove instead of two; what should I check?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Ah, that adds some clarity. Swapping pulleys but ending up with a misfit could definitely result in a twisted belt. Here’s what we can do to tackle this:

Confirming the Right Pulley and Belt Setup:

  1. Correct Pulley:

    • Double-check that the pulley you swapped on is the correct type for your setup. If the other accessories in your system use a dual-groove belt, then the alternator pulley needs to match that.
  2. Pulley and Belt Compatibility:

    • Ensure the belt you’re using matches the pulley design. If your system needs a dual-groove belt, using a single-groove pulley or vice versa won’t work.
  3. Pulley Alignment:

    • Make sure the new pulley aligns perfectly with the other pulleys in the belt’s path. Misalignment can cause the belt to twist.
  4. Belt Fit:

    • Check that the belt is the correct width and length. Sometimes a belt that’s close but not quite right can cause issues.
  5. Installation Check:

    • When installing the belt, ensure it’s sitting correctly in each groove and that it’s not forced or twisted at any point.

Pro Tips:

  • Spare Belt: Keep a spare belt on hand that matches the current setup, just in case. It can save time if you end up needing a swap.

  • Consult Resources: If you’re unsure about the correct pulley or belt, refer to a service manual or the Bullnose Garage community for specifics.

  • Test Run: Once everything is set up, do a quick test run. Check for any noises or signs of the belt twisting once the engine is running.

If you’re still facing issues, it might be worth reaching out to the Bullnose Ford subreddit or a local expert for a quick consult. Getting the right parts and alignment should smooth things out. Let me know how it goes or if there’s anything else you need!

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User:

The new alternator is marked with an ‘8,’ while the old one has ’23.’ Is this a concern?

Bill avatar
Bill:

The numbers you see engraved on alternators usually relate to model or part numbers, and sometimes they refer to manufacturing details. They can be crucial for identifying compatibility with certain engine setups or electrical systems.

Understanding the Numbers:

  1. Model Numbers:

    • These numbers often help identify the specific variant of an alternator. Different models may have variations in amperage output, mounting configurations, or pulley setups.
  2. Compatibility Check:

    • Make sure the new alternator is compatible with your truck’s electrical system. If it’s not putting out the right amperage, it could cause performance issues or not meet the demands of your accessories.
  3. Cross-Reference:

    • Use these numbers to cross-reference with a parts catalog or online database. This can confirm if the alternator is correct for your Bullnose and its specific configuration.
  4. Potential Differences:

    • Even a small difference in model numbers can indicate variations in voltage regulation or output. Ensure it matches the rest of your setup.

Pro Tips:

  • Reference Manuals: Refer to a service manual or a trusted parts supplier to verify compatibility based on those numbers.

  • Testing: After installation, test the alternator’s output with a multimeter to ensure it’s charging correctly.

  • Community Help: If you’re uncertain, you can post those numbers on the Bullnose Ford subreddit or forums for more insights.

Getting the alternator right is crucial for the long-term health of your truck’s electrical system. If you need further help with interpreting those numbers, feel free to reach out!

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User:

Can you confirm if the alternator I got is the correct one?

Bill avatar
Bill:

I understand you’re looking to confirm if your alternator is the right one for your setup. Unfortunately, without specific part numbers or details on your truck’s electrical requirements (like engine type, amperage needs, etc.), it’s challenging to provide a definitive answer. However, I can guide you on how to verify it:

Steps to Verify Alternator Compatibility:

  1. Check Vehicle Specifications:

    • Determine the original alternator specifications for your Bullnose. This includes the amperage rating, pulley type (single or dual groove), and voltage regulator type.
  2. Cross-Reference Part Numbers:

    • Use the numbers you have ("8" and "23") to cross-reference with a parts catalog or an online database specific to Ford trucks from 1980-1986. This will tell you if your alternator meets the original specs.
  3. Amperage Output:

    • Ensure the new alternator meets or exceeds the amperage requirements of your electrical system. A common range for Bullnose trucks is 60-100 amps, depending on factory options and accessories.
  4. Physical Fitment:

    • Confirm that the mounting points and pulley align properly with your existing setup. The alternator should fit snugly in its bracket without forcing alignment.

Pro Tips:

  • Use Online Resources: Websites like RockAuto or OEM parts catalogs can help verify part compatibility.

  • Consult a Supplier: Contact a parts supplier with expertise in classic Fords. They can often provide guidance based on those engraved numbers.

  • Community Wisdom: Share the details with the Bullnose Ford subreddit or forums. Other enthusiasts might have faced the same issue and can share insights.

If you provide more details about your truck’s engine and electrical demands, I can try to offer more tailored advice. But these steps should help you verify whether that alternator is a match.

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User:

Is my 1984 Ford F150 XLT suitable for off-road driving?

Bill avatar
Bill:

The 1980–1986 Ford trucks, affectionately known as Bullnose Fords, have a solid reputation for off-road capability, but it largely depends on your specific setup. Let’s break it down:

Off-Road Capabilities:

  1. Drivetrain:

    • 4WD vs. 2WD: If your Bullnose is a 4WD model, you’re already a step ahead. The 4WD system, when properly maintained, is great for tackling rough terrain and trails. 2WD models can handle light off-road conditions, but will struggle with anything too demanding.
  2. Suspension:

    • The factory suspension on these trucks provides decent ground clearance and articulation, which is a good base for off-roading. However, upgrades such as lift kits and improved shocks can enhance off-road performance significantly.
  3. Engine and Transmission:

    • Common engines like the 300 inline-six or the 351 Windsor V8 offer good torque, which is crucial for off-roading. A strong engine paired with the right transmission can make a big difference in off-road capability.
  4. Tires:

    • Tires play a crucial role. A good set of all-terrain or mud-terrain tires can dramatically improve your truck’s traction and stability off-road.
  5. Weight and Durability:

    • Bullnose Fords are built tough, with strong frames and bodies that can take a beating. However, they’re also quite heavy, which can be a disadvantage in some off-road situations.

Pro Tips:

  • Upgrades: Consider upgrading your suspension and tires for better performance if you plan to do serious off-roading.

  • Maintenance: Regularly check your drivetrain components, such as the transfer case and differentials, to ensure they’re in good working order.

  • Community Advice: For specific off-roading setups and modifications, the Bullnose Ford subreddit can be a valuable resource.

Overall, with the right setup and a little tuning, your Bullnose Ford can be a great off-road vehicle. Just make sure to tailor your modifications to the kind of terrain you plan to tackle. If you need more specific advice on modifications or parts, feel free to ask!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the names of the four bolts that secure the rear axle in a 1980 Ford F-150 300 inline 6?


Bullnose Bill discussing the rear axle bolts for a 1980 Ford F-150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Hey there! The 1980 Ford F-150 with the 300 Inline-6 is a classic workhorse. Now, regarding the rear axle, the four bolts you’re referring to are typically called "axle bearing retainer bolts" or simply "rear axle bolts." They secure the axle housing to the center section of the differential.

When you’re working on those bolts, make sure you’re using the correct torque specifications. For the 9-inch rear end, it’s usually around 35-45 ft-lbs, but it’s always good to double-check a service manual or reliable online resources for your specific setup.

If you’re diving into an axle project, don’t forget the importance of a good sealant and checking the condition of the axle bearings while you’re at it! Happy wrenching! If you have more questions, feel free to ask!


User avatar

User:

Where can I find new rear axle bolts for my 1980 Ford F-150?

Bill avatar

Bill:

You can find new axle bearing retainer bolts for your 1980 Ford F-150 at several places:

  1. Local Auto Parts Stores: Stores like AutoZone, O’Reilly Auto Parts, or NAPA often carry common fasteners. Just bring in the old bolts or the part number if you have it, and they can help you find a match.

  2. Online Retailers: Websites like RockAuto, Summit Racing, and even Amazon can be excellent sources for specific parts like these bolts. Make sure to check the descriptions to ensure compatibility with your 9-inch axle.

  3. Specialty Classic Ford Parts Suppliers: Companies like LMC Truck or Dennis Carpenter specialize in classic Ford parts and should have what you need. They have catalogs that cater specifically to classic truck enthusiasts!

  4. Ford Dealerships: If you’re looking for original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts, your local Ford dealer can sometimes order them for you, although it might be pricier than other options.

Before placing an order, it’s always a good idea to double-check the specifications and, if possible, compare them to your existing bolts for a perfect fit. Happy shopping! If you need help with anything else, just let me know!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

351 Windsor Headers from Dynovox

Published on August 30, 2024

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Part of the 351 Windsor series.
Part of the Bullnose Garage Reviews series.
Part of the Ford Truck Systems and Parts series.

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Show Transcript

hiy folks Ed here welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today I’m doing something a little bit different. I have a product here from Dinox and a set of headers for my 351W. So, uh, they sent this set to me and, uh, asked me to do a little review of them for you guys, so that’s what I’m doing today. Um, now unfortunately I’m not going to have time, uh, to put those on the actual, uh, vehicle itself. I can’t get them on the engine, obviously the engine’s not ready for that. Uh, but what I can do is, uh, go through the package, open it up, take a look at them, see their quality, and let you know what I think. So let’s get into it. Hello!

All right, so here the box I got. We’re starting fresh. Everything is even still in the bubble wrap. So let’s take a look at these bad boys. These are stainless steel. They look really good. They come with brackets, reducers, your gaskets, and your hardware, and there you go. What you see is what you get. Now when I put these on mine, which I will, um, I think I’d probably go with ARP bolts instead of the ones that come with this. That’s not to say that these bolts aren’t good. I don’t know that they’re not good, but ARP is kind of the standard, and, uh, since I build a performance engine, I want to make sure that I get the best. So, uh, that’s what I’ll probably do there. But let’s take a look at these actual headers themselves. Oh man, I love new engine parts!

All right, so I will be the first to admit that I am not a header expert. I’m just some with a bullnose who likes working on in a spare time. But I can’t tell you when I think something is pretty high quality, and these seem to be pretty high quality. They are 304 stainless steel, and I mean this look shiny. I mean, yeah, they are beautiful. I can’t wait to get these on my 351 when I finally do that build. All right, so what do you get? You get a couple of headers, obviously, get a couple of reducers. Uh, this will take you from 3 in down to 2 and 1/2 if that’s the size of your exhaust. Obviously, you get the gaskets, and you get a couple of hangers, and you get your mounting hardware.

Okay, so let’s take a look at some of the important stuff, right? Obviously, like I said, they seem to be pretty well built. They’re nice and solid. Um, the runners on there look like they’re configured pretty well. Here’s the welds, so you can see what the welds look like. Um, I am not a welding expert by any means, but they do look pretty good to me. There’s your welds on top, and just for the sake of consistency, so that you can see how their manufacturing processes are for two separate pieces, here’s the other one, right? So I know how heavy these are ’cause I’m holding on to them, but how thick are they? On the tin, it says they should be 1.5 mm. I got my CID Harbor Freight caliper, and let’s see what it says. Oh, it’s not pull the battery out of there. Handy dandy Harbor Freight quality right there. Let’s get that back. Come on now, get on there. Hey, there we go. Battery compartment in there. All right, is zero. Okay, now we’re ready. Let’s see how thick it is, and it says 1.52 and 1.47 depending on how I roll it. Uh, obviously because it’s rounded, it’s kind of hard to get an exact measurement, but you know, I do think, uh, let’s see, there’s 1.6, 1.51. Yeah, I think that’s going to be, uh, exactly what they say it is, 1.5 mm.

So for the sake of complete transparency, there is one thing that I want to mention. The company Dinox that sent me these, again, they sent me these for free for me to keep them, put them on my truck. Uh, they’re not paying me for this, so, um, they are a little expensive. These are about, uh, $3.89 for the set on their website. Uh, now they have said that, uh, they’ll make a deal for my viewers. It’ll be down in the comments. Um, but, uh, they do come with a three-year warranty from Dinox. Um, now again, to be fair, I don’t know how, uh, good that warranty is going to be. I haven’t had to deal with their customer service. I have dealt with them as part of this, uh, this video preparation for them to send me these headers, uh, and they’ve been very responsive. They’ve gotten back to me within, uh, you know, 24 hours every single time. Now obviously they’re trying to get me to make a video to do release or to do a review for you guys, so you know, they’re trying to grow their business, they’re trying to reach out. You know, the other thing I’ve done noticed is that, uh, they’ve been posting a lot on like 4×4 forums and, uh, you know, other automotive forums trying to get their brand out there. Uh, so what they mainly make is, uh, exhaust stuff. They kind of specialize in EGR delete stuff, um, tubes and fittings and stuff to do those sorts of projects. So, you know, if you’re looking to do an EGR delete or, um, you know, they got a couple videos out there about, uh, um, exhaust dumps, electronic exhaust dumps, and, um, just a bunch of stuff it comes with exhaust. So if you’re looking into that, you may want to give them a shout. But they’re fairly new, so, uh, you know, if you’re willing to, they gave me a chance, small channel trying to get out there and, uh, you know, promote their products, and so I really do appreciate that. And like I said, I will definitely be putting this, uh, on my truck when, uh, when that time comes, uh, when I get that engine ready to go. So I’m looking forward to that.

And you know, as much as I’m not a mechanic, I am kind of a perfectionist, so I’ve been doing a lot of research on basically every part that’s going to go on that engine. And I wouldn’t put a part on the engine, uh, that I don’t trust, you know, and that’s just the way that it is. And even with my limited experience in headers and parts and that kind of stuff, man, these are, you know, these are heavy. Uh, they feel like they’re really well built, uh, and it just, it just they look beautiful. So, you know, take that for what it’s worth, take it with a grain of salt from me because again, I’m not a mechanic, I’m just a Schmo. All right? And I got these for free, but I will tell you that they’re not paying me, so, uh, the fact that I got them for free has not tainted this review or anything. It is just a straight honest, um, you know, what you see is what you get with me, guys. Uh, you know, we’ll see how they go. It’s like the bolts, right? I’m going to use ARP ’cause, yeah, anyway, yeah. So when we put these on my truck, uh, you know, when I want to put them on the engine ’cause I’m going to run on a stand, uh, we’ll see how it goes.

So anyway, as always, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, put them below. Uh, I’ll have links below to all of this stuff and the Dinox website, uh, for more information. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage. Today, I’m diving into something a bit different than the usual wrench-turning saga—an unboxing and inspection of a shiny new product from DynoVox. We’re talking stainless steel headers for the 351 Windsor engine. Now, while I won’t be bolting these beauties onto the engine just yet—because, let’s face it, the engine isn’t quite ready for its makeover—I will give you a good look at what you get when you order these headers.

Unboxing the DynoVox Headers

So, let’s get into it. Right out of the box, these headers are still snug in their bubble wrap, staring back at me like a kid on Christmas morning. What do you get? Stainless steel construction, 304 grade to be exact. That’s the kind of detail that makes you feel all warm inside. They come with brackets, reducers, gaskets, and all the necessary hardware. Yes, they look good, but as you know, looks aren’t everything—especially in the automotive world.

The Contents

Here’s a quick rundown of what you find in the box:

  • Headers: The main attraction, of course.
  • Reducers: These take your exhaust from 3 inches down to 2.5 inches.
  • Gaskets: Because sealing is important unless you’re a fan of exhaust leaks.
  • Mounting Hardware: Now, I might switch these out for ARP bolts when the time comes, but that’s just me being particular.

Inspecting the Build Quality

Now, I’m no header expert—just a guy with a Bullnose who enjoys tinkering in the garage. But even I can tell when something is solidly built. These headers sport a 1.5mm thickness, confirmed by my trusty Harbor Freight caliper. Well, after a little battery mishap, that is. The welds? They look pretty decent to my eyes, though I’m no welding connoisseur. For those curious, the headers feel weighty and robust, which is always a good sign.

Detailed Measurements

For those of you who appreciate precision, the caliper readings came in at around 1.52mm to 1.47mm, give or take a hair depending on how you roll it across the rounded surface. Not too shabby for a product claiming a 1.5mm thickness.

Pricing and Value Discussion

Here’s where things get interesting—or dicey, depending on your budget. These headers are priced at $389. Not exactly pocket change, but DynoVox does toss in a three-year warranty. Now, I haven’t had the pleasure—or displeasure—of dealing with their customer service yet, so take that warranty for what it’s worth.

DynoVox has been pretty responsive, though, answering my questions faster than a speeding ticket in a school zone. They’re keen to get their name out there, and they’re active on 4×4 and automotive forums. If you’re into EGR deletes or exhaust modifications, they might be worth checking out.

Final Thoughts

As much as I’m not a mechanic, I am a bit of a perfectionist, and I wouldn’t slap any old part onto my engine. These headers seem like they’ll do the job and look good doing it. But, remember, my opinion is just that—an opinion.

So, what do you think? Are these headers worth the investment? Let me know your thoughts, rants, or raves in the comments below. And don’t forget to check out the video above to see these headers up close. Until next time, keep those engines running and the wrenches turning.


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