Tag Ford Truck Restoration

What challenges should I expect when swapping a 460 engine and F250 axles into my 1987 F150?


Bullnose Bill explains modifications for a 1987 F150 with F250 parts.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
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Bill says:

Hey there! That sounds like an exciting project you’ve got going on! Dropping a big-block 460 with a 5-speed transmission into your ’87 F-150 is sure to give you some serious power and performance.

Now, while it’s an awesome upgrade, there are a few things you should keep in mind:

  1. Engine Mounts: The 460 is a lot bigger than your stock engine, so you might need to get custom engine mounts or modify your existing ones to fit the new engine. Check the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for some tips on fabbing mounts if you’re going that route.

  2. Transmission Fitment: The 5-speed transmission will likely require some modification to the crossmember and possibly the driveshaft. Make sure to measure the length and check the alignment to avoid any surprises.

  3. Axle Compatibility: Since you’re using the axles from an ’89 F-250, ensure that the axle widths accommodate your F-150 frame well. Be mindful of the gear ratios too, as you’ll want to match the 460’s power band for optimal performance.

  4. Wiring: The 460 will also have a different wiring setup, especially if you’re using a later model transmission. You might need to do some re-wiring or adapt the harness to fit everything nicely.

  5. Cooling: With all that extra power, consider your cooling system too. The stock radiator might struggle to keep a big-block engine cool, so you might want to look into an upgrade.

  6. Braking System: The added weight and power will necessitate a good braking system. Upgrading to a more robust brake setup can help ensure safety.

Before you dive in, it might be worth checking out some discussions on the Bullnose Ford subreddit for insights from folks who’ve done similar swaps. It’s a great community, and you might find some valuable tips!

Best of luck with your build! If you run into any specific issues or questions, feel free to ask. I’m here to help!


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User:

I appreciate your insights. I’m concerned about the issues you raised. The F250 was rolled, but its frame remains straight. Should I consider placing the F150 body onto the F250 chassis instead?

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re very welcome! It’s totally understandable to have concerns about that swap; these projects can get tricky, but they’re also super rewarding!

Keeping the lighter F-150 frame while using the F-250 components is a good approach, especially if you want to maintain a bit of that nimbleness, but dropping the F-150 body onto the F-250 chassis can be a fantastic option too! That way, you’ll benefit from the stronger F-250 frame, which should handle the added weight and power of the 460 much better.

Here are some things to consider if you decide to go that route:

  1. Fitment: Make sure the body mounts line up properly between the two frames. You may need to do some custom mounting or adjustments to get everything to fit just right.

  2. Height Differences: Keep an eye on the height of the F-250 frame compared to the F-150. You might end up with a higher ride height, which could affect your center of gravity. Adjusting the suspension could help to level things out.

  3. Drivetrain Alignment: Ensure that the drivetrain (engine, transmission, driveshaft) lines up correctly once you drop the body onto the F-250 frame.

  4. Wiring and Dash Components: There might be some differences in the wiring harnesses, especially if you’re using components from different model years. Just make sure to document everything for a smoother install.

  5. Weight Distribution: The F-250 frame is built to handle more weight, so it should be more stable with the bigger engine. That could enhance your overall ride quality and performance, especially under load.

  6. Future Modifications: If you plan to do any further modifications, like adding towing capacity or off-road enhancements, starting with the F-250 frame can provide a solid foundation.

You’re on the right track thinking about these options! Whatever you decide, it’s bound to be an impressive build. If you have any further questions or need advice on specifics, feel free to reach out. Happy wrenching!

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User:

My main focus is off-road capability. What should I consider for the suspension upgrade next?

Bill avatar
Bill:

That sounds like a blast! Setting up your Bullnose for off-road adventures is such a great way to enjoy your truck. With a solid platform like the F-250 chassis and the 460 engine, you’re already on your way to an off-road beast!

When it comes to suspension, here are some key points to keep in mind:

  1. Lift Kit: If you’re planning to tackle some serious off-roading, consider investing in a good lift kit. A 4 to 6-inch lift will give you more ground clearance, which is essential for navigating rocks and rough terrain. Plus, it’ll allow you to fit larger tires.

  2. Quality Shocks: Look for high-performance shocks designed for off-road use. They’ll help absorb the impact from bumps and rugged trails. Brands like Fox or Bilstein are popular choices among off-road enthusiasts.

  3. Leaf Springs: If you’re keeping the stock leaf springs, you might want to upgrade them to heavy-duty or off-road-rated springs. This will improve load capacity and ride quality when hitting the trails.

  4. Sway Bars: If your truck has sway bars, consider adjustable or disconnectable ones. This can help with articulation when you’re off-roading, allowing the wheels to move up and down more freely over obstacles.

  5. Tires: Don’t forget about the tires! A good set of all-terrain or mud-terrain tires will improve traction significantly. Make sure they fit within your wheel wells after lifting the truck.

  6. Alignment: After making any suspension changes, get a proper alignment. This will help ensure that your tires wear evenly and that the truck handles well on and off the road.

  7. Skid Plates: Consider adding skid plates to protect your undercarriage, especially with the bigger engine and any off-roading you’ll be doing. This will help you avoid damage from rocks and uneven surfaces.

If you’re looking for inspiration, check out some off-road builds on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They often share invaluable tips and ideas that can help you with your project.

Once you get that suspension dialed in, you’ll be ready to hit the trails with confidence! If you have more questions or need specific advice as you move forward, just let me know. I’m here to help!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


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Bronco Electrical

Published on February 26, 2025

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Part of the The Bullnose Bronco series.

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Show Transcript

The goal today is simple: get this ’82 Bronco running. All I’ve got to do to make that happen is put a battery in here and, uh, fix these old worn-out posts hopefully. And to do that, I got some nice new toys that I’m going to show you guys. And, uh, I figure while I’m doing that with nice new toys, I may as well go ahead and update this one too, so the ’85 is also going to get new battery terminals. See how it goes. Let me, uh, show you what I got.

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And on today’s episode of tools I absolutely do not need but absolutely have to have is, uh, some heavy-duty battery cable cutters and, uh, a battery cable crimp tool along with brand new battery posts and all the fun stuff to go along with all of that. This is the battery that I’m using. It’s a, uh, cheapest battery I can find. It’s a Walmart special, EverStart value brand, 650 cold cranking amps. Uh, it’s, uh, group size 65, which is what fits in the Bronco. Pretty simple. These are about as cheap as you can get. Uh, but really when it comes to car batteries, I mean, it depends on who you ask, but they’re all basically about the same. What you’re paying for is a warranty usually unless you go with something, um, like a higher tier of battery that you, you like, maybe Optima, though I’ve heard some bad things about Optima. Anyway, that’s off the topic. Um, so yeah, just a cheap Walmart battery’s got a one-year warranty. Um, and because I’m not going to be starting the Bronco very often, I also got this 20W, uh, solar panel, which is basically a trickle charge maintainer. Um, I actually have one in the ’85. It works a treat, so I’m going to put one in the Bronco to make sure that this thing doesn’t die on me next time I want to go start it. So, uh, yeah, go ahead and get started.

Hello. Now, first thing I want to do is get this battery mounted. We go like a glove, and we’re going to put on the first brand new nifty thingy that I got, which is this, uh, battery hold down. The old one was pretty well rotted away, so I actually had to cut it off. Uh, it’s not perfect. I’ll just go this way, that way, not to worry about the ridges. There we go. All right, guys, just had to, uh, cut the ends off of these real quick with a Dremel. That way they don’t stick up too far and, uh, bonk my hood when I’m doing this. So yeah, that’ll be about right. Uh, quick tip: if you’re ever cutting the ends off of these things with a Dremel, uh, screws like this, just make sure you got a nut on the inside of there when you do it. That way, when you’re done, you can thread the nut off the end, and that will help reshape the threads so that it’s easier to get your nut back on once you’ve, uh, done the trimming.

So now it’s time to do the wires. Now, in this truck, for some reason, the positive is a black wire, and the, uh, the negative, wherever that went, yeah, is also a black wire. So I’m not entirely sure why they’re both black, but they are. And you can know that this one here is the positive because it goes to the, uh, starter solenoid. And then, of course, the negative goes down to, uh, the frame and underneath, uh, down there. So, uh, yeah, I’m not sure why the positive on this one is a black wire, but hey, you know, it is what it is. Give me a nice fresh connection here. Not too bad. Man, that’s pretty, uh, corroded even down inside there. That’s all right. And we’ll do the same here. Now this one’s got a couple of wires on it that I’m going to have to deal with here, but I think I can take care of that. That, okay, where’s that wire go? What is that wire for? That wire goes into the cab through the firewall, so who knows what that’s for? I may just leave that unhooked and see what happens. No, now I’ll hook it up, but I’m going to hook it up different. I’m not going to hook it up the way this is hooked up. Man, that’s a red wire too, isn’t it? Why would that be a red wire? That annoys me they would use a red wire for this. Is that a red wire or am I seeing things? I don’t know.

So that was the cheapest cutters. Uh, this is the nice expensive cutters. I didn’t use these ’cause I wanted to see how the other ones work. These actually, uh, you can use these to strip the wires, so that is actually really nice, and that’s what I will be using these for. There we go. Man, that’s corroded. I may have to replace that whole wire. That’s rough. Of course, want something, you know. Okay, guys, so as corroded as that cable is, I’ve decided to go ahead and just replace the whole thing. It shouldn’t take very long. I’ve got all the bits and pieces, and I’ve got the cable. So this isn’t exactly the same stuff. I mean, obviously, it’s not going to be stock. Uh, this is audio cable. Well, it’s not audio cable, it’s power cable for audio amplifiers, but it’s 4 gauge, which should be enough. Now, um, I will probably upgrade to a gauge in the not too distant future for this, but, um, for what we’re doing today, just to get this thing started, I’ll go ahead and go with 4 gauge ’cause that’s what I have.

All right, let’s try out my fancy dancy new, uh, crimper here. Ooh, look at that. Never enough hands for everything that I want to do here. It’s on there now. Put that wire in there. All right, and that didn’t do jack. All right, and it’s hard to do this on camera. Did it go? Yep, seems like it went. What the hell? Well, that thing’s kind of garbage, man. That sucks. Sharp knife is just as good, if not better for that. Son of a—what the hell? Never enough hands. What a load of—how is that? This shouldn’t be this hard. I’m sorry I did the, uh, the crimping and the, uh, heat shrinking off camera because that crimping with wire this large is a real pain in the butt, and the heat shrink just happened to be in my garage. The, uh, heat shrink gun is in my garage, so I’ll bring it out here for the other cable. But for now, it was just easy to do it this way. Look at that, guy. Yeah, fancy, right? TIY, Lefty Lucy guy. Remember years ago when I first got my ’85, I was looking for a good set of battery terminals like these, and I couldn’t find a good set. These seem like they’re pretty good. Pretty good. Extra points if you know who I’m, uh, pretending to be there.

Okay, now I got to cut this puppy and do him. Okay, so here’s the thing, guys. Uh, let me start with this. I do not recommend this tool. Um, it’s kind of expensive. I thought it was kind of neat, um, but, uh, it doesn’t really work very well. It’s not super sharp, and it doesn’t, uh, strip very well. I’ve actually found that it’s easier just to use a good sharp knife and to cut around carefully so you don’t, you know, slice your thumb open. I mean, it’s not super precise, and there’s always the option to cut your finger off, but even with those considerations, it seems to work better than, uh, than that tool. So there we go. All right, now this crimper that I have here is also not really super great. It’s hard to use, and, um, it seems to like you have to kind of preload it a little bit to get the shape, and then you turn it around so that it crimps both sides evenly, and that’s just kind of the way that it is. Not a big fan of that, but we’ll see how it works with this guy right here. This, these wires are a little bit easier ’cause they’re not fine strands, and the verdict is not great. All right, yeah, that did it. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

All right, guys, well, my other camera died, so now here I am with my phone doing this. So wh—That’s what I was afraid of. Now with the fun part, we’re going to see if I release any of the magic blue smoke. I don’t see anything. Now it’s time to see if this thing will start. Okay, here we go. Fuel system’s next on the list, but before I get there, I want to get this electrical stuff figured out. So it does seem though like it turned over so well. Obviously, more than it seems like it’s turning over. It actually is turning over, so that’s a good sign. Well, with a successful test, it does run. Now I got to be careful with this because, like I said in my last video, there’s no coolant, so I can’t run it very long. Um, as a matter of fact, if I run out of gas out of that bottle there, that’s probably even too long to run this without cooling in it. But, um, obviously, like you saw, it does run, and now that there’s a, uh, good battery in here, I can start it up and move it around if I need to, and I can get some cooling in here and, uh, you know, take care of that. And obviously, got to take a look at the fuel system, see what’s going on with that. Uh, I don’t know why the fuel line is disconnected from the, uh, the tank. Um, I have no idea, so we’ll, uh, take a look at that and see what’s going on there.

All right, guys, the last thing I’m going to do today is put in this solar battery charger just to keep this battery that I just put in here in good shape. Um, I’ve had good luck with this particular brand. It’s, uh, OM. It looks like O-M-S. It’s an Amazon brand. I’ll throw a link in the comments to where I got it, but it’s the same one that I have in my other truck, and it’s kept that battery in really good shape over the course of the last year and a half, two years. Um, even when I haven’t driven the truck in, man, up to a month. Uh, so yeah, if you’ve got a project vehicle that, uh, you need to keep a battery in but you don’t drive very often, I definitely recommend something like this. They aren’t too expensive, and, uh, they’re just a really good way to make sure that your battery stays charged up and, uh, in good shape. In the case of this one, I’m just going to stick it in the back window here, which kind of faces south, and, uh, plug this into the cigarette lighter, and, uh, it should just go right to the battery. In these old trucks, the cigarette lighter did actually just go right to the battery all the time, so as long as this works, which hopefully it does, I guess we’ll find out. Let’s see what the battery charger says. Oh, it says charge. Wait, it said charging. Why? What’s going on there? It showed charging for a second, and then it stopped.

All right, so I just spent like, uh, five minutes fiddling with the plug inside here. The, uh, the, uh, cigarette lighter plug and, uh, oh, it just went off again. Wow, this thing is rough. The, uh, lighter plug in this thing is not good. Um, it’s really finicky. So, but I do have a light. So guys, to be fair, one of the things that I really like about this particular panel is that it’s got a little indicator light in the back that tells me when it’s in the sun, when it’s charging, and when the battery is fully charged. And that’s super nice to have so that you know, uh, like for me, I know exactly when it’s plugged in. I don’t have to get out my multimeter and check up at the battery or doing other weird stuff back in here with this. I just, I just know exactly when it’s working, so, uh, that’s really nice. So yeah, now that I got that figured out, it does appear to be charging. Um, I’m going to go ahead and, uh, pop this thing in the back window. Oh, well, that’s a good sign. Ooh, a cigarette butt. Well, that’s interesting. A no smoking sign and a cigarette butt. Use vehicles, guys. Got to love them.

All right, yeah, there you go. Blue means it’s in the sun, red means it’s charging, and actually the sun is over there, right? Well, hold on, and actually it’s not really in the sun very much. The sun’s over on this side of here, but it doesn’t take very much, so that’s great. And you can see my other truck, um, right there in the back window. Now, by now, this one, uh, I’m actually hanging it with, uh, some magnetic hooks because the, uh, suction cups are dead on it after a couple of years, and that typically happens. But yeah, it works out great too. See? And it actually says in the sun, so there’s enough sunshine to trickle charge. Um, this one here, it doesn’t say it’s not charged, but, uh, it’s going to be charged enough to start the truck. So there we go. And then I will do this one, uh, upgrade the terminals off camera. You guys don’t need to see that. You’ve, uh, already seen that once today, so same exact procedure on this side, just changing out the terminals. So, and actually this one should go easier ’cause I don’t really have to, uh, change out or redo any of these wires. I just have to put the new terminals on, so should be easy to go, should be easy to do, should be good to go. Yeah, you know what I mean.

All right, guys, that’s it for today. Short one, real easy, just swapping out a battery. There’s probably a thousand videos on YouTube. I’ll change your batteries. This is mine. If you guys have any questions, comments, gripes, internet ramblings, stickle below. If I did something stupid besides cutting my thumb, tell me in the comments what the heck I can take it. And as always, thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. Tinker away, getting things to shine. No garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage. Today, we’re jumping into a bit of an electrical adventure with my ’82 Ford Bronco. The mission is to get this beast running with a new battery and some fresh terminals. And as a cherry on top, I’m throwing in a solar trickle charger. Because why not add a little renewable energy twist to our old-school rig?

The Battery Swap: Walmart’s Finest

First up, let’s talk batteries. I went with the EverStart battery from Walmart—about as budget-friendly as you can get. It’s the group size 65, which fits the Bronco like a glove. With 650 cold cranking amps, this little fella should do the job. Now, I know there’s a whole debate on battery brands, but let’s be honest, unless you’re shelling out for something like an Optima, which I’ve heard mixed reviews about, you’re mostly paying for the warranty.

Terminal Upgrade: Out with the Old

The original battery terminals were corroded to the point of no return. So, we’re swapping them out for some shiny new ones. Here’s a quick tip: when cutting off the ends of battery hold-down bolts, throw a nut on there first. Once you cut, unscrewing the nut helps clean up the threads. It’s a small trick, but it saves a headache down the road.

Cable Chaos: A Tale of Two Black Wires

Now, about these wires. For reasons beyond my understanding, the positive wire is black, which traditionally signifies ground. But in this twisted Bronco world, black is hot. Go figure. Anyway, I replaced the corroded old cables with new 4-gauge power cable. It’s not stock, but it’s what I had on hand. In the future, I might upgrade to a beefier gauge, but for now, 4-gauge should handle the load just fine.

Tool Time: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Let’s talk tools. I tried out some new toys today. The heavy-duty cable cutters were a mixed bag. The cheaper ones didn’t impress, while the pricier set was decent at stripping wires. As for the crimper, it was a bit of a dud. It’s one of those tools that seems like a good idea until you actually use it. In the end, a sharp knife did the job better than the fancy tool.

Solar Trickle Charger: Keeping the Battery Alive

Since I won’t be firing up the Bronco daily, I installed a 20W solar trickle charger. It’s a neat little gadget that keeps the battery juiced up even when the truck is sitting idle. I’ve used this same setup on my ’85 F150, and it’s worked like a charm. Just slap it in the back window and let it do its magic.

The Moment of Truth: Does It Run?

After all the tinkering, it was time to see if the Bronco would actually turn over. Spoiler alert: it did! The engine cranked up, which means we’re halfway there. Next on the list is tackling the fuel system. It’s disconnected for some mysterious reason, but that’s a puzzle for another day.

Final Thoughts

So there you have it—another day, another step closer to getting this Bronco back on the road. If you’ve got any questions, comments, or feel like pointing out something I messed up, drop a line below. I can take it. Until next time, keep tinkering and making those old rigs shine. Check out the video above, and let me know what you think!


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For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.