Tag Inline-six engine

Bullnose Bronco

Published on January 30, 2025

Click to play the video inline  or  see it on YouTube

Part of the The Bullnose Bronco series.

Want to see more like this? Subscribe to Bullnose Garage!

Show Transcript

You know guys, sometimes doing YouTube is hard, and it takes a lot of time to make videos and a lot of time to sit down and do the research and write the scripts and do all this stuff. So I thought this week I’d try to catch up a little bit, just do a real quick simple video about my plans for the Bullnose. You know, I haven’t done one of those in a while, and that way you guys can kind of see what the plans for the Bullnose are going to be. So, uh, oh, I, uh, yeah, you already know the plans for this Bullnose. I mean, the plan for this Bullnose. Hello, hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and meet Bullnose number two. She’s a 1982 Ford Bronco. Just picked her up this weekend from my actual friend that I’ve got in another town over. He saw my channel, went, ‘Hey, I got a Bullnose rotting out in my yard. You want to come pick her up and add her to your list of projects?’ I thought, ‘Ah, you know what? Why not? Because one Bullnose is never enough, right? Mongo’s Garage, mm, I’m coming for you. I got two now!’ Actually, no, I will never have as many Bullnoses as those dudes have. That is crazy. Anyway, I just thought I would introduce you and let you take a look and talk a little bit about what my plans are.

So this old girl is much rougher than my ’85, but one thing I love about her is that she has a manual transmission. Of course, being a Bronco, she’s a 4×4. She’s pretty rough, but you know, that’s okay because I’m going to cut my teeth on my ’85 and learn my way in and out of these things really, really well, and then we will start restoring this girl right here. Now, as you can see, she does have a little bit of rust coming in down through here and some back over here. My guess is, I’m not sure if you can see that from the camera. I guess you can. And so my guess is that the guy who the previous owner had was doing some mudding and some off-roading and stuff, and those tend to be the places where the mud and the grime and the stuff gets caught up in the fender wells and up inside of here. And so that’s where a lot of dirt and debris and G got caught up in there. As a matter of fact, I can see some, um, already in there. See if I can feel the dust coming out of there. Dust and dirt with grunge and stuff in there. You can actually see where there’s some rocks and dirt caught up inside of there. So my guess is that that stuff got wet and just stayed wet for a while, packed up in there, and that’s where that rust happens.

You got the same thing over by the tailgate. You can see pretty clearly down here on the bottom there. So this tailgate is pretty much roached. I could probably fix this, I guess, but I don’t think I’m going to. They make repop tailgates for these, so I’ll probably just go ahead and do that. The rear window, unfortunately, doesn’t go up and down. I think that’s probably because the motor is busted. So the rear window has been down for a long time, and so that’s allowed the elements to get in here. So the inside of this, especially in the back, is pretty well roached out. But you know, it wouldn’t be a project if it was easy. So my current plan is to take the tailgate off, replace it with a new one. Probably I’ll cut some panels out of this and use them to fill in some of the body areas and the other parts of the truck that are a little bit rusted out. Teach myself how to weld body panels and do some fill and that kind of stuff, just kind of make it look nice. This one, the plan is not to be a show truck like my other truck is. This one is actually going to be something a little bit different.

So my plan for this truck is to be a desert crawler. We’re out here in the desert Southwest. There’s a lot of trails and mountains and stuff here, so I figure I could, uh, you know, it’s kind of pretty much already set for it, right? That’s what a Bronco is. So, uh, I’m not going to go like full pre-run or anything, but just, you know, give it like maybe a 4-inch lift with a 1-inch body lift, and I’ll put some bigger tires on it. You know, it’s already got the 49 in the rear, and it’s got a J44 TTB in the front. And I think, uh, you know, if I just beef up the components for both of those, that should give me what I need to be able to go out and do some serious desert crawling around here. You know, just kind of clean it up and clean up the rust and make sure that it runs right. Now, it’s not roadworthy, unfortunately. Now, it does run, and it actually runs like a top. It’s got an inline six in it, which is awesome, and I think the inline six in this thing runs almost as good as the inline six in my ’85. Now, of course, you guys that are paying attention to my channel all the time know that I’m pulling the inline six out of the ’85 and putting a 351 Windsor in and stroking it to 408. That is not what’s happening to this thing. You guys don’t have to worry. This truck is keeping the inline six. I probably will pull the inline six out of this and do some refreshing on it. I may decide to do some mods to it. You know, there’s some talk in my channel comments about, you know, did you see this where they turboed inline sixes and all this stuff? You know, I might look into some of that stuff. I don’t know that I have the chops for a project like that yet, but you know, by the time I get done building my Windsor and stuff, maybe I’ll feel more comfortable around that stuff, so I might give it a try. Anyway, but regardless, the inline six in this thing is a puller. It’s a workhorse. It got me up on the trailer no problem. There’s some fuel issues, so you have to actually, uh, here, you know what? I’ll show you. There we go. Ah, all right, so there we go. There’s the old inline six in there, and right now the only way I can get it to run is to throw some fuel in a water bottle like this and spray some fuel down in the carb, and then she’ll run. And she runs really, really good. The inline six in this purrs like a kitten, so I’m really happy about that. But, um, I’m not sure what’s going on with the fuel line. I’m not sure why it can’t pull fuel from the fuel tank. I got to look into that. The brakes are basically shot. When we dropped it back off the trailer, I had to actually put it in gear and pop the clutch to make sure that it didn’t roll back into my wall over here. So, uh, yeah, the brakes are pretty much shot. I got to do a complete brake job. I’ve already got a video series on my complete brake job on the other truck, so I won’t bore you with doing that whole thing again. But at least I know what I’m doing there, so I’ll do that. It needs new parking brake. Yeah, obviously. I mean, there’s no, uh, coating in it. There’s, uh, I don’t have any idea what the condition of the oil is. Um, you know, I got to look at all that stuff. But the engine itself runs really well. And you know, my thought was that even a worst-case scenario, the engine in this turned out to not run very well, I can always pull the 300 six out of my other truck and pop it in here and use that. But I don’t think I’m going to have to. I think I can just use the 300 that’s in here, and we’ll see. You know, I’ll get them both out at some point and see which one I want to use for my rebuild.

But yeah, so if you were paying attention to the engine when I had it closer up here, one thing you’ll notice that this truck does not have is air conditioning. And if you’ve watched a couple of my videos before, you know that I specifically bought my other truck because it has air conditioning and because it’s so damn hot down here in the Southwest when it gets to be in the summer. So, uh, that’s kind of okay for this build. Again, this is not going to be an around-town cruiser, really. It’s going to be mostly going out in the desert and having fun. So most of the time, I think this will have windows down, top off, that kind of stuff. But, uh, I still think I want to put AC in it, so I may make a video series about putting AC in a non-AC Bullnose. Um, because that’s, you know, I think that’s worth the content. And I actually do have a dash already from an AC Bullnose truck that I might be able to use as parts and pieces for this. I don’t know how hard that’ll be. I haven’t actually done the research to see how hard it’ll be to put an AC in a non-AC truck, but there are kits that you can use that’ll do that even if you don’t use the factory AC. So, um, yeah, we’ll see how that goes.

All right guys, here we are underneath the Bronco, and you can get a good look at what’s going on down here. There’s the Dana 44 front TTB, and, uh, let’s see, this, believe it or not, is an NP435 transmission. This is the same manual transmission that I got in the ’85. Um, with these trucks for a manual, it’s either going to be a T18 or an NP435, and you can tell this was an NP435 because it’s got the PTO cover on the passenger side right there. You can also see the drain plug is indicative of an NP435 too. So, uh, yeah, same transmission, and that transmission is going to stay in here because NP435 is basically bulletproof, and it’s perfect for a desert runner, desert crawler like I want to build here. So, uh, yeah, as long as it shifts well, which I think it seems to so far, but I haven’t had it out on the road to test it. But yeah, so we’re definitely going to keep that. And as you can see, there’s not really a lot of rust. There’s some surface rust on the frame, nothing real bad. There is some rust there under the seat pan. I think that happens quite a bit in these trucks, so I’ll have to cut that out, put some rust inhibitor or converter on there, and eventually cut that out and probably weld a little pan or something in there to make sure that doesn’t get any worse, make sure it can support my amper frame while I’m in the truck. And then, uh, yeah, so scoot back here. All right, scooting back just a little bit, you can see the transfer case here. I believe it’s an NP205, although I’m not 100% sure. I got to check this tag here and double check, but, uh, I think that’s going to be what it is. Believe it or not, guys, I was wrong. It’s actually a Borg Warner 1345, not a New Process 205 transfer case. Both of those transfer cases were used in this era of Bullnose Broncos, so I wasn’t sure which one it was, and I took a stab, and I was wrong. They’re both really good transfer cases. They’re both pretty similar. The Borg Warner’s got a chain drive, and the NP205’s got a gear drive. I’ll do another video about the differences in the different transfer case options that there are, but I think I’m probably going to go ahead and stick with what I’ve got. I’ll do a service on it and make sure that it runs okay. But, uh, yeah, so it’s a Borg Warner 1345. And then, uh, yeah, you can see underneath here to the back, got the famous Ford 9 inch, which I’m super excited about. It’s not an end case, though I wouldn’t expect it to be an ’82 Bronco. So, uh, but it should still do perfectly for what I want. Beef it up a little bit, put some high spline axles in there and, you know, a locker and some stuff, and we’ll be good to go there. And then, yeah, the driver’s side of the body here doesn’t look too bad. Um, so I think I’m in good shape. There’s some surface rust on the cross member and the frame and just in general, but there’s no rot through. It’s just surface stuff. So, man, got rust falling on me. Uh, but hey, you know, that’s part of the job. So, yeah, um, I’m super happy with it. I’m looking forward to digging into this thing and see what we can make out of it.

All right guys, well then, these are the twin sisters of Bullnose Garage. They’re not identical, just like my other twin girls aren’t identical, but they’re both the same vintage, and one’s an ’85 F150 and one’s an ’82 Bronco. Um, yeah, I’m super, super thrilled of them both. Can’t wait to get them both on the road and going. This one here will obviously get done first. Uh, this is one that I put the new engine in, the 408 that’s going to go in here. Uh, this one has got a lot of work yet to do. I got to do some body work and, uh, obviously work on the engine fueling system, brakes, all that stuff. The fiberglass cab’s got some issues. Some of the fiberglass is kind of getting worn down. I got to, uh, probably coat that and put a coat of paint on it and stuff. But you know what? I’m going to bring you guys along for all that stuff. Uh, you know, this whole channel, everything’s about me cutting my teeth and getting some experience on some of the stuff that I don’t really know that much about. So, uh, yeah, looking forward to getting both these girls fixed up and ready to go. And if you want to be along for the ride, make sure you like and subscribe. I really appreciate that. And like I said, I got that 408 that I’m getting ready to build that’s coming up on the channel. So if you want to see what I’m doing there, make sure you subscribe and, uh, you know, ring the bell and keep in touch with all that stuff. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, C interet ramblings, stick them below. And thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Take her away, getting things to shine. That Bullnose Garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage. Sometimes, diving into the YouTube vortex can feel like a grind, so this week, I decided to keep things simple and share my latest project—a 1982 Ford Bronco that’s seen better days. But hey, one man’s rust bucket is another man’s desert crawler, right?

Meet the 1982 Ford Bronco

Say hello to my second Bullnose, a 1982 Ford Bronco I recently picked up from a friend. Now, she’s a far cry from my ’85 F150, which is destined for a full restoration. This Bronco, on the other hand, is packed with potential to become a rugged desert crawler. She comes with a manual transmission and, of course, the 4×4 setup you’d expect in a Bronco. It’s a bit of a fixer-upper, but that’s the fun part.

Rust and Repairs

This old girl has her fair share of rust—especially around the fender wells and tailgate. The previous owner was likely into mudding, which tends to trap grime and moisture in all the wrong places. The tailgate is a goner, but thanks to the wonders of reproduction parts, that’s an easy swap. The rear window motor is shot, so the elements have had free rein inside for a while. But hey, that’s what makes it a project truck, right?

A Desert Crawler in the Making

Living in the desert Southwest, turning this Bronco into a desert crawler is practically a no-brainer. I’m planning a modest 4-inch lift with a 1-inch body lift, along with beefier tires. Under the hood, she’s got an inline-six that, surprisingly, runs like a charm. For now, it’s staying put. The NP435 transmission is a keeper too—it’s as bulletproof as they come and perfect for a desert runner.

Tackling Unique Challenges

Adding A/C to this non-A/C truck is on the to-do list. Let’s face it, the desert heat doesn’t play nice. I’ve got a dash from an A/C Bullnose that might come in handy. Installing A/C in a truck that never had it will be a challenge, but hey, who doesn’t love a good DIY project?

Under the Hood and Chassis

The engine purrs like a kitten once I manually feed it fuel, so there’s some detective work to be done with the fuel line. The brakes are shot, which isn’t a surprise. I’ve got a brake job series already, so no need to rehash that. The Borg Warner 1345 transfer case and Ford 9-inch rear end are solid, just needing some TLC to get them trail-ready.

Wrapping Up

So, these are the twins of Bullnose Garage—an ’85 F150 and an ’82 Bronco. Both have their quirks, but that’s what makes them fun. The Bronco might be rough around the edges, but with a little elbow grease, she’ll be tearing up the desert trails in no time. If you want to keep up with the chaos, make sure you subscribe and maybe ring that bell. I’ve got a 408 stroker build coming up too, so stick around for that.

Check it out above, and let me know what you think. Questions, comments, or just want to share your own project woes? Drop them below.


Bullnose Garage at YouTube

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.
300 Six Fuel Pump Replacement

Published on August 11, 2024

Click to play the video inline  or  see it on YouTube

Part of the The Bullnose F-150 series.
Part of the Ford Truck Systems and Parts series.

Want to see more like this? Subscribe to Bullnose Garage!

Show Transcript

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage for the first time, and man, it’s been almost two years. Uh, life, pandemic, all kinds of stuff just got in the way of me working on this truck. And I’ve gotten several comments on many of my videos asking where I am and what’s going on, and people even actually worried about me, and I appreciate that. I really do. Uh, everything’s fine.

But today, the reason that I’m out here right now is because something broke on the Bullnose, and I need to fix it. And the last thing that I want to do is fix something on that truck without bringing you guys along with me. So what broke is this. It’s a mechanical fuel pump. So I try to start my truck every couple of weeks at the very least just to get it running and make sure that it’s okay, make sure the battery stays charged, all that fun stuff. Then about once a month or so, I’ll go out and, uh, actually stretch its legs, run it for, uh, you know, 10, 15 miles, something like that, and then bring it back and make sure that it’s running all right.

And this last time I went out to start it, it was kind of hard to start. I had to give it a whole lot of gas, and it cranked and cranked and cranked and wouldn’t catch. And then eventually it did catch and then die, and then it caught and then died. And then I gave it even more gas, and it caught and then it ran, but it sounded kind of strange, and I started smelling a little bit of gas. And so I turned it off and opened up the, uh, the hood back there and looked underneath, and there’s a big puddle of something, and it wasn’t oil, and it smelled like gas. So I’m guessing it was gas.

And sure enough, I turned the truck on and, uh, went back around to the front, and you could see it was running, but you could see, uh, where the fuel pump was just draining fuel, um, out onto the driveway here. And I don’t know if you’ll be able to see this or not, but these mechanical fuel pumps are designed with a little weep hole right here. So they’ve got a diaphragm inside of here, and then this, this, uh, right here rides on top of a cam inside the engine. And, uh, if that diaphragm goes out, it leaks out of this hole as an indicator to what, you know, that there’s something wrong and you got to replace it. And there’s no fix in the diaphragm. You can’t get in here, and there’s no serviceable parts. This thing is like a one-piece unit, and it’s like 30 bucks, so it’s not worth even trying to fix anyway, even if you could.

Um, so just go out and grab yourself a new one if you’ve got that problem. And these are actually, uh, pretty easy to change. You just get in there, takes a, uh, I think it’s like a 12 millimeter or a half-inch driver with a ratchet, and, uh, you got to get yourself the fuel pump itself. Like I said, it’s about 30 bucks. I got myself a Felpro gasket, like two bucks, and, uh, I didn’t have any of this, so I went out and grabbed some Permatex Orange. Um, that’s what’s good around fuel, uh, just to go around the gasket there. Now, there shouldn’t be any fuel touching that gasket. It’s in between the block and the fuel pump itself. There’s some oil in there, but there shouldn’t be any gas. But anyway, it’s around the fuel line, so in case something were to break or bust, I don’t want that getting out of the gasket material and giving me problems, so that’s why I’m using that.

So let’s get to it. All right, so that right there is the fuel pump. The, uh, line on the bottom of your screen, let me move this up a little bit so you can see, that’s going to the fuel tank, and the one on the top in the back there is going up to the carburetor. And you can see that, uh, there’s a bracket right there, and, uh, that bracket holds the ignition coil connector. Uh, so we’re going to have to remove that bracket as well. Now, not all vehicles have that, but mine happens to. Um, let’s see, and again, this is on a 3006. Uh, your mileage may vary, but, uh, on my ’85 36, this is how everything’s set up.

Now, a lot of these fuel pumps actually have the can facing down. In my case, it faces up. That’s just the way that it is. So I’m not sure if you can see it from this angle here. There’s a couple of bolts that hold that on, so it’s a fairly easy replacement, and we’re going to start by taking off the lines. So we’re going to start with this fuel line from the tank. Um, now, because my truck is outside, I’ve already leaked a bunch of fuel on the ground. I don’t really care that much, but if you’re going to be inside of your garage or in a place where the floor kind of matters, you want to make sure to put something under the truck because you might get some fuel leaking out of here when you take it off. And you just, uh, loosen up this hose clamp here and wiggle it off. Takes a little bit of force, especially if it’s been on there for a while. You just take it right off, and you want to cap this with something. I’m just using a driver extension and then kind of tuck that out of the way.

Now for the other one, we need to get a wrench in there and loosen that up. Now for the line going to the carburetor, I’m going to use a 5/8 flare nut wrench, and I’m going to use that because I don’t want to have to round this nut off and replace this line. So, um, whenever you’re working on, like, brake lines or lines like this, it’s always a good idea to use a flare nut wrench, um, because they have a more positive grip and you’re less likely to round things off. It makes them harder to get on. They’re a little bit, takes a little bit longer to do, but it’s just a little bit of insurance.

All right, that took a while, but we are on. Okay, I’m trying to get you guys a pretty good angle. Um, it’s a little hard to get down in here and see what I’m doing, but the next step is to actually unmount it from the block. And if you can see there, a couple of bolts there, they are half-inch, and so I would use my half-inch ratchet to take them off. Oh, and I was wrong. They’re not bolts, they’re nuts. That’s what happens if you’re not a mechanic. You think you know something, and then you’re not. Because, um, I have this, uh, um, ignition coil bracket behind there, uh, and it’s down by where the gasket is, I’m going to have to take that off so that I can get to the existing gasket and make sure that I get all that gasket material out of there. So this is a 9/16, and it’s right up here, and now I can move this out of the way and actually get to the pump.

So here’s something that I actually didn’t know about and expect. Um, the first bolts that I took, or the first nuts, excuse me, that I took off of the bottom where the fuel pump is at actually held this bracket on. So the actual fuel pump mounting, uh, nuts are still on there. So now I have to remove those, and they are also a half-inch. And up she comes. Now that I’ve got the fuel pump out of there, you can see inside the cam that’s down there that the fuel pump, um, arm rides on. You can also see all the, the gasket material that’s left on there. We want to make sure we get all that gasket material off so we have a nice clean mating surface with the block again for the new pump.

I want to start by using a, uh, a nylon brush just to kind of peel away the gasket material that’s there. You don’t want to be too harsh because you don’t want to, so there’s not actually even a gasket there. It looks like there’s just some gasket material that someone had put on before, and I have an actual gasket that I’m going to use. But, uh, make sure this is nice and clean. You don’t want to be too harsh and rough up too much, but you do have to make sure that it’s nice and clean. And now finally, get this as clean as, uh, I can. Oops, out of the way. I’m going to use this brass bristle brush. Brass bristle brush, um, it’s a little rougher than nylon but not as rough as steel. And this is just, uh, if I had a scratch pad, I’d probably use a scratch pad, but I don’t have one. Um, you could probably use steel wool, but that may be a little bit harsh for me. So that’s just to make sure that I got any remaining gasket material or any other kind of contaminants, uh, definitely off of there. And then I’m going to, uh, take some isopropyl alcohol and dilute it just a little bit. It’s not quite so strong, and give it a good final rub down with a shop rag just to make sure I don’t have anything going around there. Then we will let that dry and take a look at the old pump.

All right, so there’s our old pump, obviously, and our new one. And, uh, you, I mean, you can’t visually look at this and tell that it’s bad. Um, yeah, there’s not really any kind of diagnostics that you can do, um, except run fuel through it and watch it pour out of the weep hole. Um, that’s about it. But, uh, as you can see, they’re not exactly the same, but, uh, they’re definitely going to fit. So now the next job is just to install the new one. Just a quick note here, um, there can be some difficulty with installing these because of the position of the cam. Um, sometimes you’ll have to actually turn the engine. Um, you have to get on the crankshaft pulley with a ratchet or something or a breaker bar and actually turn the engine a little bit to get that cam into the right position to put this in. You can muscle this in without doing that. It’s kind of up to you how you want to do it. This one came out really, really easy, so I’m hoping that my engine is in the correct position to make it pretty easy to install this one. Uh, we’re going to find out.

So my first job here is going to be getting this gasket, um, onto here. The easiest way to do that is to take some of your gasket maker and just run a little bit seal area here, okay? And then you can put your gasket on, and what that’s going to do is that’s actually going to sort of lock the gasket to this part, and that way you’re not fighting with the gasket to stay on, um, while you’re getting it actually on the engine itself. And then while you’re out here, you actually do the same thing the other side, just a real light thin coat here. You don’t want too much. You don’t want it really oozing out, just enough to go around all the surface areas so that, uh, it mates real good and it fills in any micro gaps or anything between this gasket and the block itself. So let’s get to it.

All right, here we go. This is kind of hard with the camera here, but this is a little tight, but you just keep at it, and it’ll get in there. It’s a little hard to work with. I don’t really have a lot of space here for my fingers. There we go. Getting these in is kind of the hardest part, and I can see my gasket starting to get tacky, so I want to make sure that I get this tightened up really quickly. Sorry if you’re wobbling around. Sometimes this stuff is hard to do with the camera in the way. There we go. Now we want to slide our bracket back on. Should be fairly simple, just like that. I’ll get this thing tightened up and be right back with you.

All right, so it’s now installed. The only thing that remains is to put the, uh, the hoses back on. Now this is going to be tricky. You want to make sure that you’re not going to cross-thread that as it goes in. There we go. Now, like I said, wh off my sunglasses. Now, like I said, you want to be careful that you don’t cross-thread this nut right here. Um, it took me a little bit to get it in the right position. You may have to actually bend your line just a little bit to, uh, to get it to line up. You’ll know when you get it right ’cause it’ll start going on, uh, fairly easy. If it’s real, real hard to get on there, then you’re probably cross-threading it, and you don’t want to do that because then you have to replace this nut, flare nut right there, and, uh, that means replacing the whole line. So you want to make sure you’re careful.

And the last thing is putting your fuel line back on, and you just shove it on there, make sure it goes on all the way, and you can, uh, tighten up your hose clamp. All right, now we should be good to go. Now when you go to start this, it’ll probably take a long time because that have to pre, so, uh, be patient, and we’ll see how long it takes.

All right, here we go, and success! There is no fuel leaking out of my new fuel pump. Keep an eye on it just when you first, uh, get it started up. Make sure all your connections are dry, and you put your finger on it, you can actually feel the vibration of that pump lever in there moving up and down on the cam. At this point, I think we’re good to go.

All right, guys, well, there you go. Pretty simple job, a little bit dirty, but what is it? And, uh, pretty cheap too. Actually, it’s about, uh, I think, uh, 30, 40 bucks for all the parts that you need to do it. Um, it’s about an hour’s worth of work for me, and that includes filming. So for, uh, somebody who doesn’t have to worry about dealing with the camera and getting the right angles and going through all that stuff, it’s probably really a 20, 30-minute job at the worst. If you’ve never done it before, um, it’s a little fiddly getting in there sometimes, get those bolts out, and you got to be careful with that fuel line that you don’t, uh, cross-thread that flare nut or round it off or anything like that. But I mean, as long as you’re careful, you’re not going to worry about, uh, the truck runs like a top once again. It’s nice to have the old inline six running great again. Um, sounds as good as it did before, or actually probably better now with the new fuel pump. Uh, took it around the block a couple times, no issues at all, no leaks, no nothing. So it’s very nice to have that thing back on the road again.

As always, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage. It’s been a while since I cracked open the hood of the old ’85 Ford F150 on camera, but today we’re diving right back into it. Seems like the universe conspired to keep me away with all kinds of life stuff, but the Bullnose decided it had enough of sitting idle and developed a bit of a fuel problem.

So, in this video, I tackled something that every classic Ford truck owner will likely face at some point—replacing the mechanical fuel pump on a Ford 300 Inline Six. Let’s break down the process, shall we?

Diagnosing the Fuel Pump Issue

It all started with the truck being a bit stubborn to start. You know the drill—crank, crank, crank, and still no joy. When it finally fired up, the engine ran rough and there was a whiff of gasoline in the air. Cue the dread.

As it turns out, the mechanical fuel pump was leaking gas. These pumps have a nifty little feature—a weep hole—that lets you know when the diaphragm inside has called it quits. When fuel starts dribbling out of this hole, it’s your cue to swap the pump.

Tools and Parts Needed

You’ll need a few tools to get this job done: a 1/2-inch ratchet, a 9/16-inch wrench, and a 5/8 flare nut wrench. For parts, grab a new mechanical fuel pump, a Fel-Pro gasket, and some Permatex Orange Gasket Maker. All in, it’s about 30 to 40 bucks.

Removing the Old Fuel Pump

First things first, disconnect the fuel lines. The line from the fuel tank can be a bit messy—so, toss a pan under there unless you want your driveway smelling like a gas station.

The line to the carburetor is a bit trickier. Use that flare nut wrench to avoid rounding off the nut. Trust me, the last thing you want to do is replace that whole line.

Cleaning the Mating Surface

Once the old pump is off, you’ll see the cam inside the engine where the pump’s arm rides. Clean off any old gasket material from the engine block. I used a nylon brush to keep it gentle, but threw in a brass bristle brush for the stubborn bits.

Installing the New Fuel Pump

Slap a bit of gasket maker on both sides of your new gasket and position it on the pump. This helps keep the gasket in place while you maneuver the pump into position.

This can be a bit fiddly, especially if the cam isn’t in the perfect spot. Sometimes you have to turn the engine a smidge to line things up. Once it’s seated, bolt it in, reattach the lines, and make sure everything’s snug.

Testing the Installation

Once everything’s back in place, fire up the engine. It might take a bit for the fuel to get moving, but once it does, check for leaks. If all’s dry and running smooth, you’ve nailed it.

Conclusion

And there you have it—a fairly straightforward job that won’t break the bank or your back. If your Bullnose starts acting up with similar symptoms, now you know what to do.

Got questions, or just want to share your own tales of wrenching on a Bullnose Ford? Drop them in the comments below. Thanks for sticking with me through the hiatus, and I’ll catch you in the next video!


Bullnose Garage at YouTube

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.