Tag manual transmission

What is the factory leaf spring weight capacity for the 1986 Ford F250 extended cab 4×4 manual?


Bullnose Bill explaining the leaf spring weight capacity of the 1986 Ford F250.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Ah, the 1986 F-250, a solid piece of machinery! The factory leaf spring capacity for these trucks varies depending on the configuration and the intended use, like whether it’s a highboy or a regular F-250. For a 1986 F-250 4×4 with an extended cab, you’ll likely find the rear spring capacity to be in the ballpark of 2,500 to 3,000 pounds per side, for a total of around 5,000 to 6,000 pounds.

Keep in mind, these numbers can fluctuate a bit depending on the exact factory setup and any aftermarket modifications over the years. To get the most accurate info, check the door jamb sticker or the original owner’s manual if you have it. Those documents should give you the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) and GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating), which can help you calculate the exact factory specs.

If you’re thinking about upgrades or replacements, consider your typical load and usage. There are plenty of aftermarket options available if you need something with more capacity for hauling or towing. Just be sure any modifications align with other components like shocks and mounts to keep everything balanced and safe. Let me know if you need more details on upgrades or replacements!


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User:

What leaf spring weight is recommended for the 1986 F250 with a 460 ci engine and 4×4 drive?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Choosing the right leaf springs for your 1986 F-250 with the 460 CI engine and 4×4 involves considering how you plan to use the truck. The 460 is a hefty engine, so you’ll want springs that can handle the weight while providing enough capacity for your typical load.

Stock Replacement

If you’re looking to maintain or restore factory-like performance, you’ll want springs with a total capacity around 5,000 to 6,000 pounds, similar to the originals. This should be fine for standard use without any significant loads or modifications.

Heavier-Duty Use

For heavier-duty use, like frequent towing or hauling, consider upgrading to springs rated for a higher capacity. You might look at springs rated for 3,500 to 4,000 pounds per side, giving you a total of 7,000 to 8,000 pounds.

Key Considerations

  • Ride Quality: Heavier springs might stiffen the ride, especially when the truck is unladen. Consider this if you use the truck daily without heavy loads.
  • Compatibility: Ensure that any upgraded springs are compatible with your truck’s existing shock absorbers, mounts, and axles.
  • Aftermarket Options: Brands like Tuff Country, Skyjacker, and Superlift offer quality aftermarket springs with various capacities. Make sure they’re designed to fit your specific truck model and intended use.

Installation Tips

When installing new springs, replace any worn bushings and check U-bolts for wear. Proper alignment is crucial to avoiding unnecessary wear on the suspension components and tires.

If you’re unsure about the exact specs, or if your truck has been modified over the years, measuring the current springs can also help when talking to a parts supplier. And as always, there might be more detailed advice over at the Bullnose Ford subreddit or possibly a video on the Bullnose Garage channel. Feel free to dive deeper there if needed!

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User:

Is the total capacity based on all four leaf springs combined?

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Bill:

Great question! When we talk about the leaf spring capacity, it’s typically rated per axle, which means you consider the leaf springs on each side of that axle together. So, if a set of leaf springs is rated for, say, 3,000 pounds per side, then the total capacity for that axle is 6,000 pounds.

In a truck like your 1986 F-250, the rear leaf springs usually bear the brunt of the load, so their total capacity is key for hauling and towing. The front springs also have their own capacity, but they primarily support the engine weight and are more about handling and ride quality than hauling.

To sum up:

  • Per Side: Individual leaf spring capacity (e.g., 3,000 pounds each).
  • Per Axle: Combined capacity of both sides (e.g., 6,000 pounds for the rear axle if each side is 3,000 pounds).
  • Total Vehicle Capacity: The sum of both front and rear axle capacities, but keep in mind the vehicle’s GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) dictates the overall safe operating weight, which includes the truck’s weight, passengers, and cargo.

If you plan to adjust or upgrade, always keep the total vehicle capacity in mind to avoid exceeding safe limits. If anything’s unclear or if you need more specifics, just let me know!

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User:

What is the vehicle weight of the 1986 F250 XL with a 460 engine, 4-speed manual transmission, and 4×4?

Bill avatar
Bill:

The curb weight of a 1986 Ford F-250 XL with a 460 engine, extended cab, 4-speed manual transmission, and 4×4 drivetrain typically falls somewhere between 5,000 and 6,000 pounds. Several factors contribute to this variability, including optional equipment, the condition of the truck, and any modifications it might have undergone over the years.

Factors Affecting Weight:

  • Engine Type: The 460 big block weighs more than smaller engines, contributing to the upper end of the weight range.
  • Cab Configuration: An extended cab adds extra weight compared to a regular cab.
  • 4×4 Drivetrain: The 4-wheel drive system adds additional components, such as the transfer case and heavier-duty axles, increasing the curb weight.

Checking Exact Weight:

For the most precise figure, you can take your truck to a weigh station or look for a scale at a truck stop. The vehicle’s manual or the door jamb sticker can sometimes offer insights into its GVWR, which is different from the curb weight but helpful for understanding its capabilities.

If you need exact numbers for registration, towing, or planning modifications, weighing the vehicle is your best bet. If you’re doing any upgrades or restorations, keep these weight considerations in mind to maintain the balance and performance of your Bullnose. Let me know if there’s anything else you need!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

How can I identify the engine and transmission in my 1983 Ford F-150?


Bullnose Bill explaining engine and transmission options for a 1983 Ford F-150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Alright, let’s dig into this. You’ve got an ’83 F-150 and you’re keen to find out about the engine and transmission. Here’s how you can go about it:

Engine Identification

  1. VIN Number:

    • Your vehicle identification number (VIN) is a great starting point. You can find it on the driver’s side dashboard, visible through the windshield.
    • The 8th digit of the VIN specifies the engine type. For 1983, this could be a range of options like the 4.9L I6, 5.0L V8, or even the 5.8L V8, among others.
  2. Emissions Sticker:

    • Look under the hood for the emissions sticker. It usually sits on the radiator support or the underside of the hood. This sticker will often list the engine size.
  3. Engine Casting Numbers:

    • If you’re getting hands-on, check the engine block for casting numbers. These are typically located on the passenger’s side of the block. You’ll need these numbers to accurately identify the engine.

Transmission Identification

  1. Transmission Code on the VIN Sticker:

    • Check the door jamb sticker on the driver’s side. It includes a "TR" code, which indicates the transmission type.
    • Common transmissions for ’83 include the C6 automatic or the Borg-Warner T18 manual.
  2. Visual Inspection:

    • If you’re familiar with transmissions, you might be able to identify it by sight. Automatics from this era often have a pan shape that’s unique to models like the C6.
  3. Transmission Casting Numbers:

    • Similar to the engine, the transmission will have casting numbers. These are usually on the driver’s side of the transmission case.

Additional Tips

  • Check the Bullnose Ford Subreddit: This community can be a goldmine for specific identification tips—just make sure to search for threads related to your specific question.
  • Consult BullnoseGarage.com: You might find detailed guides or videos related to engine and transmission ID.

If there’s anything else specific about your Bullnose that you’re curious about, feel free to ask!


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User:

What options might my 1983 F-150 single cab short bed with manual transmission and 4WD have?

Bill avatar

Bill:

You’ve got a classic setup there with the ’83 F-150 single cab short bed, 4WD, and manual transmission. Let’s look at some options and features that might have come with your truck:

Engine Options

Given it’s an ’83, and assuming it’s original, here are some engine possibilities:

  • 4.9L I6 (300 CID): A workhorse of an engine, known for its torque and reliability.
  • 5.0L V8 (302 CID): Offers a nice balance of power and efficiency.
  • 5.8L V8 (351 CID): More power, often found in trucks with towing needs.

Transmission

Since it’s a manual with 4WD:

  • Borg-Warner T18: A common manual transmission, known for its durability and heavy-duty performance.

4WD System

  • NP208 Transfer Case: Likely the transfer case used in your 4WD system, offering part-time four-wheel drive.

Other Features and Options

  1. Interior Options:

    • Basic cloth or vinyl bench seats were common.
    • Some higher trims might have had extra comforts like an AM/FM radio or air conditioning, but many were quite utilitarian by today’s standards.
  2. Exterior Features:

    • Dual fuel tanks were an option, great for extending range.
    • Chrome trim packages or special body graphics were sometimes available, depending on the trim.
  3. Axles and Suspension:

    • Dana 44 Front Axle: Standard for 4WD models.
    • Rear might be a 9-inch or a Ford 8.8, depending on factory specs or any changes over the years.
  4. Trim Levels: Options could vary significantly if it was an XL, XLT, or Custom trim. Higher trims often included more creature comforts and aesthetic upgrades.

Customizations

Given the age of these trucks, many have been modified or customized over the years. It’s not uncommon to find upgraded suspensions, engine swaps, or aftermarket accessories.

If you want to dig deeper into specific features or modifications that might have been popular, the Bullnose Ford subreddit and BullnoseGarage.com are great resources. They can offer insights from other owners who have similar setups. If there’s more you’re curious about, just give me a shout!

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User:

Does having dual gas tanks help identify the engine type, or is it available for all engines?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Dual gas tanks were a popular option across many engine configurations in the Bullnose era, especially for trucks geared towards longer trips or work purposes. So, having dual tanks doesn’t necessarily narrow down the engine type on its own. Both the inline-six and the various V8s could be fitted with dual tanks.

Why Dual Tanks Were Popular

  1. Extended Range: Dual tanks allowed drivers to cover more distance without refueling, which was particularly useful for work trucks or those used in rural areas.

  2. Fuel Management: Having two tanks gave drivers flexibility in managing fuel loads, which was handy, especially if fuel prices varied between regions.

  3. Payload Distribution: Splitting fuel weight could help with weight distribution, especially if the truck was loaded with gear or towing.

Engine Configurations and Dual Tanks

  • 4.9L I6: Commonly found with dual tanks, especially in utility setups.
  • 5.0L and 5.8L V8s: Also frequently paired with dual tanks, especially in higher trims or trucks meant for heavier duty use.

Ultimately, the presence of dual tanks is more indicative of the original owner’s preference for range and utility rather than a specific engine choice. If you’re trying to narrow down your engine type, focusing on visual inspections and the VIN decoding will be your best bet. If you need more help, feel free to ask!

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User:

I currently don’t have my truck. Can you help me narrow down my options further regarding the transmission?

Bill avatar

Bill:

No worries at all! I understand it can be tricky to nail down specifics without the truck on hand. Once you’ve got it, the VIN and a bit of under-the-hood detective work will really help fill in the blanks.

If you end up needing more detailed guidance once you’re with the truck, don’t hesitate to swing back. I’m here to help with anything else you might need about your Bullnose. Best of luck, and happy wrenching when the time comes!

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User:

Does the trim level of the 1983 F-150 affect anything beyond aesthetics?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Great question! While trim levels in the Bullnose era certainly included aesthetic differences, they also affected a few other aspects of the truck. Here’s a breakdown of how trim levels might influence your ’83 F-150 beyond just looks:

Interior Features

  1. Comfort and Convenience:

    • Higher trims, like the XLT, often included more comfortable seating options, such as upgraded cloth or even velour, compared to the basic vinyl in lower trims.
    • Additional interior features like air conditioning, a nicer audio system, and more comprehensive instrumentation (like a tachometer) were more common in higher trims.
  2. Cab Details:

    • Better sound insulation and more refined interior finishes, such as wood-grain dash accents or additional carpeting, were often part of higher trim packages.

Exterior and Functional Features

  1. Exterior Trim and Badging:

    • Chrome trim, upgraded grille designs, and special badging were typical for higher trims like the Lariat.
  2. Lighting and Bumpers:

    • Some trims came with extra chrome or aluminum accents on bumpers and different headlight bezels.
  3. Wheel and Tire Options:

    • Higher trim levels sometimes included upgraded wheels or hubcaps, adding a bit of flair compared to the base models.

Suspension and Performance

  1. Towing Packages:

    • Some higher trims might have included factory options for towing packages, which could mean heavier-duty suspension components or an upgraded cooling system.
  2. Axle Ratios:

    • Depending on the intended use, different axle ratios might be more common in certain trims to improve towing capacity or fuel efficiency.

Ultimately, while a lot of the differences are aesthetic, trim levels could influence some functional aspects of the truck, particularly in terms of comfort and certain performance tweaks made for specific uses. If you get a chance to dig into your truck’s history or see it in person, you might find some of these differences present. If you need more information, just let me know!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bronco

Published on January 30, 2025

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Part of the The Bullnose Bronco series.

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You know guys, sometimes doing YouTube is hard, and it takes a lot of time to make videos and a lot of time to sit down and do the research and write the scripts and do all this stuff. So I thought this week I’d try to catch up a little bit, just do a real quick simple video about my plans for the Bullnose. You know, I haven’t done one of those in a while, and that way you guys can kind of see what the plans for the Bullnose are going to be. So, uh, oh, I, uh, yeah, you already know the plans for this Bullnose. I mean, the plan for this Bullnose. Hello, hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and meet Bullnose number two. She’s a 1982 Ford Bronco. Just picked her up this weekend from my actual friend that I’ve got in another town over. He saw my channel, went, ‘Hey, I got a Bullnose rotting out in my yard. You want to come pick her up and add her to your list of projects?’ I thought, ‘Ah, you know what? Why not? Because one Bullnose is never enough, right? Mongo’s Garage, mm, I’m coming for you. I got two now!’ Actually, no, I will never have as many Bullnoses as those dudes have. That is crazy. Anyway, I just thought I would introduce you and let you take a look and talk a little bit about what my plans are.

So this old girl is much rougher than my ’85, but one thing I love about her is that she has a manual transmission. Of course, being a Bronco, she’s a 4×4. She’s pretty rough, but you know, that’s okay because I’m going to cut my teeth on my ’85 and learn my way in and out of these things really, really well, and then we will start restoring this girl right here. Now, as you can see, she does have a little bit of rust coming in down through here and some back over here. My guess is, I’m not sure if you can see that from the camera. I guess you can. And so my guess is that the guy who the previous owner had was doing some mudding and some off-roading and stuff, and those tend to be the places where the mud and the grime and the stuff gets caught up in the fender wells and up inside of here. And so that’s where a lot of dirt and debris and G got caught up in there. As a matter of fact, I can see some, um, already in there. See if I can feel the dust coming out of there. Dust and dirt with grunge and stuff in there. You can actually see where there’s some rocks and dirt caught up inside of there. So my guess is that that stuff got wet and just stayed wet for a while, packed up in there, and that’s where that rust happens.

You got the same thing over by the tailgate. You can see pretty clearly down here on the bottom there. So this tailgate is pretty much roached. I could probably fix this, I guess, but I don’t think I’m going to. They make repop tailgates for these, so I’ll probably just go ahead and do that. The rear window, unfortunately, doesn’t go up and down. I think that’s probably because the motor is busted. So the rear window has been down for a long time, and so that’s allowed the elements to get in here. So the inside of this, especially in the back, is pretty well roached out. But you know, it wouldn’t be a project if it was easy. So my current plan is to take the tailgate off, replace it with a new one. Probably I’ll cut some panels out of this and use them to fill in some of the body areas and the other parts of the truck that are a little bit rusted out. Teach myself how to weld body panels and do some fill and that kind of stuff, just kind of make it look nice. This one, the plan is not to be a show truck like my other truck is. This one is actually going to be something a little bit different.

So my plan for this truck is to be a desert crawler. We’re out here in the desert Southwest. There’s a lot of trails and mountains and stuff here, so I figure I could, uh, you know, it’s kind of pretty much already set for it, right? That’s what a Bronco is. So, uh, I’m not going to go like full pre-run or anything, but just, you know, give it like maybe a 4-inch lift with a 1-inch body lift, and I’ll put some bigger tires on it. You know, it’s already got the 49 in the rear, and it’s got a J44 TTB in the front. And I think, uh, you know, if I just beef up the components for both of those, that should give me what I need to be able to go out and do some serious desert crawling around here. You know, just kind of clean it up and clean up the rust and make sure that it runs right. Now, it’s not roadworthy, unfortunately. Now, it does run, and it actually runs like a top. It’s got an inline six in it, which is awesome, and I think the inline six in this thing runs almost as good as the inline six in my ’85. Now, of course, you guys that are paying attention to my channel all the time know that I’m pulling the inline six out of the ’85 and putting a 351 Windsor in and stroking it to 408. That is not what’s happening to this thing. You guys don’t have to worry. This truck is keeping the inline six. I probably will pull the inline six out of this and do some refreshing on it. I may decide to do some mods to it. You know, there’s some talk in my channel comments about, you know, did you see this where they turboed inline sixes and all this stuff? You know, I might look into some of that stuff. I don’t know that I have the chops for a project like that yet, but you know, by the time I get done building my Windsor and stuff, maybe I’ll feel more comfortable around that stuff, so I might give it a try. Anyway, but regardless, the inline six in this thing is a puller. It’s a workhorse. It got me up on the trailer no problem. There’s some fuel issues, so you have to actually, uh, here, you know what? I’ll show you. There we go. Ah, all right, so there we go. There’s the old inline six in there, and right now the only way I can get it to run is to throw some fuel in a water bottle like this and spray some fuel down in the carb, and then she’ll run. And she runs really, really good. The inline six in this purrs like a kitten, so I’m really happy about that. But, um, I’m not sure what’s going on with the fuel line. I’m not sure why it can’t pull fuel from the fuel tank. I got to look into that. The brakes are basically shot. When we dropped it back off the trailer, I had to actually put it in gear and pop the clutch to make sure that it didn’t roll back into my wall over here. So, uh, yeah, the brakes are pretty much shot. I got to do a complete brake job. I’ve already got a video series on my complete brake job on the other truck, so I won’t bore you with doing that whole thing again. But at least I know what I’m doing there, so I’ll do that. It needs new parking brake. Yeah, obviously. I mean, there’s no, uh, coating in it. There’s, uh, I don’t have any idea what the condition of the oil is. Um, you know, I got to look at all that stuff. But the engine itself runs really well. And you know, my thought was that even a worst-case scenario, the engine in this turned out to not run very well, I can always pull the 300 six out of my other truck and pop it in here and use that. But I don’t think I’m going to have to. I think I can just use the 300 that’s in here, and we’ll see. You know, I’ll get them both out at some point and see which one I want to use for my rebuild.

But yeah, so if you were paying attention to the engine when I had it closer up here, one thing you’ll notice that this truck does not have is air conditioning. And if you’ve watched a couple of my videos before, you know that I specifically bought my other truck because it has air conditioning and because it’s so damn hot down here in the Southwest when it gets to be in the summer. So, uh, that’s kind of okay for this build. Again, this is not going to be an around-town cruiser, really. It’s going to be mostly going out in the desert and having fun. So most of the time, I think this will have windows down, top off, that kind of stuff. But, uh, I still think I want to put AC in it, so I may make a video series about putting AC in a non-AC Bullnose. Um, because that’s, you know, I think that’s worth the content. And I actually do have a dash already from an AC Bullnose truck that I might be able to use as parts and pieces for this. I don’t know how hard that’ll be. I haven’t actually done the research to see how hard it’ll be to put an AC in a non-AC truck, but there are kits that you can use that’ll do that even if you don’t use the factory AC. So, um, yeah, we’ll see how that goes.

All right guys, here we are underneath the Bronco, and you can get a good look at what’s going on down here. There’s the Dana 44 front TTB, and, uh, let’s see, this, believe it or not, is an NP435 transmission. This is the same manual transmission that I got in the ’85. Um, with these trucks for a manual, it’s either going to be a T18 or an NP435, and you can tell this was an NP435 because it’s got the PTO cover on the passenger side right there. You can also see the drain plug is indicative of an NP435 too. So, uh, yeah, same transmission, and that transmission is going to stay in here because NP435 is basically bulletproof, and it’s perfect for a desert runner, desert crawler like I want to build here. So, uh, yeah, as long as it shifts well, which I think it seems to so far, but I haven’t had it out on the road to test it. But yeah, so we’re definitely going to keep that. And as you can see, there’s not really a lot of rust. There’s some surface rust on the frame, nothing real bad. There is some rust there under the seat pan. I think that happens quite a bit in these trucks, so I’ll have to cut that out, put some rust inhibitor or converter on there, and eventually cut that out and probably weld a little pan or something in there to make sure that doesn’t get any worse, make sure it can support my amper frame while I’m in the truck. And then, uh, yeah, so scoot back here. All right, scooting back just a little bit, you can see the transfer case here. I believe it’s an NP205, although I’m not 100% sure. I got to check this tag here and double check, but, uh, I think that’s going to be what it is. Believe it or not, guys, I was wrong. It’s actually a Borg Warner 1345, not a New Process 205 transfer case. Both of those transfer cases were used in this era of Bullnose Broncos, so I wasn’t sure which one it was, and I took a stab, and I was wrong. They’re both really good transfer cases. They’re both pretty similar. The Borg Warner’s got a chain drive, and the NP205’s got a gear drive. I’ll do another video about the differences in the different transfer case options that there are, but I think I’m probably going to go ahead and stick with what I’ve got. I’ll do a service on it and make sure that it runs okay. But, uh, yeah, so it’s a Borg Warner 1345. And then, uh, yeah, you can see underneath here to the back, got the famous Ford 9 inch, which I’m super excited about. It’s not an end case, though I wouldn’t expect it to be an ’82 Bronco. So, uh, but it should still do perfectly for what I want. Beef it up a little bit, put some high spline axles in there and, you know, a locker and some stuff, and we’ll be good to go there. And then, yeah, the driver’s side of the body here doesn’t look too bad. Um, so I think I’m in good shape. There’s some surface rust on the cross member and the frame and just in general, but there’s no rot through. It’s just surface stuff. So, man, got rust falling on me. Uh, but hey, you know, that’s part of the job. So, yeah, um, I’m super happy with it. I’m looking forward to digging into this thing and see what we can make out of it.

All right guys, well then, these are the twin sisters of Bullnose Garage. They’re not identical, just like my other twin girls aren’t identical, but they’re both the same vintage, and one’s an ’85 F150 and one’s an ’82 Bronco. Um, yeah, I’m super, super thrilled of them both. Can’t wait to get them both on the road and going. This one here will obviously get done first. Uh, this is one that I put the new engine in, the 408 that’s going to go in here. Uh, this one has got a lot of work yet to do. I got to do some body work and, uh, obviously work on the engine fueling system, brakes, all that stuff. The fiberglass cab’s got some issues. Some of the fiberglass is kind of getting worn down. I got to, uh, probably coat that and put a coat of paint on it and stuff. But you know what? I’m going to bring you guys along for all that stuff. Uh, you know, this whole channel, everything’s about me cutting my teeth and getting some experience on some of the stuff that I don’t really know that much about. So, uh, yeah, looking forward to getting both these girls fixed up and ready to go. And if you want to be along for the ride, make sure you like and subscribe. I really appreciate that. And like I said, I got that 408 that I’m getting ready to build that’s coming up on the channel. So if you want to see what I’m doing there, make sure you subscribe and, uh, you know, ring the bell and keep in touch with all that stuff. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, C interet ramblings, stick them below. And thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Take her away, getting things to shine. That Bullnose Garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage. Sometimes, diving into the YouTube vortex can feel like a grind, so this week, I decided to keep things simple and share my latest project—a 1982 Ford Bronco that’s seen better days. But hey, one man’s rust bucket is another man’s desert crawler, right?

Meet the 1982 Ford Bronco

Say hello to my second Bullnose, a 1982 Ford Bronco I recently picked up from a friend. Now, she’s a far cry from my ’85 F150, which is destined for a full restoration. This Bronco, on the other hand, is packed with potential to become a rugged desert crawler. She comes with a manual transmission and, of course, the 4×4 setup you’d expect in a Bronco. It’s a bit of a fixer-upper, but that’s the fun part.

Rust and Repairs

This old girl has her fair share of rust—especially around the fender wells and tailgate. The previous owner was likely into mudding, which tends to trap grime and moisture in all the wrong places. The tailgate is a goner, but thanks to the wonders of reproduction parts, that’s an easy swap. The rear window motor is shot, so the elements have had free rein inside for a while. But hey, that’s what makes it a project truck, right?

A Desert Crawler in the Making

Living in the desert Southwest, turning this Bronco into a desert crawler is practically a no-brainer. I’m planning a modest 4-inch lift with a 1-inch body lift, along with beefier tires. Under the hood, she’s got an inline-six that, surprisingly, runs like a charm. For now, it’s staying put. The NP435 transmission is a keeper too—it’s as bulletproof as they come and perfect for a desert runner.

Tackling Unique Challenges

Adding A/C to this non-A/C truck is on the to-do list. Let’s face it, the desert heat doesn’t play nice. I’ve got a dash from an A/C Bullnose that might come in handy. Installing A/C in a truck that never had it will be a challenge, but hey, who doesn’t love a good DIY project?

Under the Hood and Chassis

The engine purrs like a kitten once I manually feed it fuel, so there’s some detective work to be done with the fuel line. The brakes are shot, which isn’t a surprise. I’ve got a brake job series already, so no need to rehash that. The Borg Warner 1345 transfer case and Ford 9-inch rear end are solid, just needing some TLC to get them trail-ready.

Wrapping Up

So, these are the twins of Bullnose Garage—an ’85 F150 and an ’82 Bronco. Both have their quirks, but that’s what makes them fun. The Bronco might be rough around the edges, but with a little elbow grease, she’ll be tearing up the desert trails in no time. If you want to keep up with the chaos, make sure you subscribe and maybe ring that bell. I’ve got a 408 stroker build coming up too, so stick around for that.

Check it out above, and let me know what you think. Questions, comments, or just want to share your own project woes? Drop them below.


Bullnose Garage at YouTube

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.
Bullnose F150

Published on October 9, 2020

Click to play the video inline  or  see it on YouTube

Part of the The Bullnose F-150 series.

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Show Transcript

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. What is a bullnose and why do I have one? A bullnose is a Ford truck built from the years 1980 to 1986, like the one behind me. This one here is a 1985 F-150. Bullnose trucks are F-150, F-250, F-350, or Bronco, anywhere from ’80 to ’86. And why are they called a bullnose? Well, because the front of the truck looks kinda like a bull’s nose, if you imagine.

So why do I own a bullnose? Well, it’s a project truck for me. I’ve always loved Ford trucks. In fact, my daily driver is a 2007 Ford F-150, so the F-150 platform is something I know and love very much. And I wanted something older that I could work on, something carbureted, something that was easy for me to sort of sink my teeth into and learn how to rebuild engines and do all the kind of mechanical stuff. See, my entire life I’ve been a computer guy. I write programs for a living, so I never really worked very much with my hands. And I thought, what better way to get my hands dirty than to do it on an old Ford truck? So, my project.

So why did I choose this particular truck? After all, I had to drive all the way to San Antonio, Texas, to pick it up. Well, I couldn’t find any trucks like what I was looking for around here. So what does that mean? Well, first of all, as you can see, it’s in pretty good shape. The paint’s a little faded, but there’s no rust, and the body is really straight. So that’s one thing. Another thing that’s pretty obvious is that it’s a short bed. Now, I was looking for a short bed because I want a truck that’s going to be a little bit sportier, because I’m planning on putting a few more horses under the hood and making like a little street truck out of it. Now, I’m not going to do any kind of racing or anything, but what I’m going for would be better with a short bed, so I wanted to make sure I got one of those.

It also runs really well. I basically could just drive it right out of the box, except for the fact that it’s a manual. So I knew I wanted a manual because I’d never driven a stick shift before in my life. And I figured, what better way to learn how to drive a stick than to buy a vehicle that I can’t drive unless I know how to drive a stick? So I had to teach myself, and that’s what I did. And I’m glad to say that it works. I can now drive a stick shift. At least I can drive this stick shift.

The last thing that I wanted to make sure that I had, no question, was air conditioning. I mean, because come on, I live in New Mexico, and it is hot as in New Mexico. Let me go ahead and start her up, and I’ll let you take a listen. The engine in this truck is an inline six, and it’s got an NP 435 manual transmission. That’s a four-speed, but it’s effectively a three-speed. The first speed is granny low. I mean, I could throw this thing into first gear, get out, and walk alongside it. So you basically never use first gear in a truck like this.

Even though I pretty much just started my channel last month, I’ve had the truck for a couple of years, so I’ve had some opportunity to do just a little bit of work to it. So let me just briefly go over some of the stuff that I’ve already done. I’ve changed all the fluids, including this stuff. I’ve replaced both side mirrors. I’ve replaced the door and window seals, and I replaced the door striker. I’ve repositioned the license plate so the tailgate doesn’t smack it when it comes down. I’ve changed the battery twice. I have replaced the alternator. I replaced my marker lights and updated the blinkers. I replaced my tail lights. I’ve wrapped the steering wheel, and I’ve replaced the rear view mirror. I added LED dash lights and LED interior lights. I let someone from Craigslist load something into the back of my truck with a forklift and bend the bed. So that’s my bullnose.

But I’m not done. I mean, I started this channel with the intent of making videos for people who may have a similar truck or similar interests, and mostly because I’ve never done this before. And this is all gonna be a learning experience for me. And so I’m kind of hoping that by going through this and having a learning experience that, uh, if I film it, maybe I can help some other folks. So let’s talk about what my plans are for the bullnose and for this channel, and I got a whole bunch of them.

So obviously the big deal is a new engine. The truck right now has a 306. It’s an inline six. These motors are bulletproof, and there’s going to be a lot of people, a whole lot, that are going to tell me that I shouldn’t swap the motor, that the 306 is one of the greatest engines that Ford ever made, and it’s ridiculous to pull a perfectly good running 306 out of a truck and put in something different. But a 306 is not the engine that I want for my application. What I want is something with a little more punch. So what I’m putting in there is a 351 small block, and I actually already have one, but that’s a future video. Eventually, I would like to stroke it, probably to 408, and get between 400 and 500 horsepower. But that’s a long ways down the road. I think to begin with, I’m just going to go ahead and do a regular engine rebuild, and I might put a couple of power adders on there, but I haven’t quite decided what I’m going to do with that just yet.

And of course, um, I’m going to do basically everything that I can to make the truck as nice as possible. So we’ll do some interior work. I’m going to work on the interior molding, make it look nice. I’m not sure exactly what I’m going to do, if I’m going to spray paint it or if I’m going to wrap it with some kind of fabric or, you know, what I’m going to do there. I do know I want to put some kind of sound deadening on the inside. I do want to add carpet. Right now it’s just that old rubber mat on the ground. I want to take care of that. I’m going to have to reupholster the seats or get real nice seat covers, but I think I’m probably going to end up reupholstering.

Um, so I’m also going to do a lot of electrical work. When I inherited the truck, well, when I purchased the truck, whoever I inherited it from did some questionable electrical work, so I need to go in and take care of some of that. I’m going to replace the headlights with probably LED headlights, and eventually I’ll be putting in a stereo system, probably putting speakers in the door panels and adding things wherever I can figure out how to add them. I might try to put a double din radio in there. I’m not quite sure yet. I’ve got an extra dash piece, um, bezel for the radio, so just, uh, I screw it up, I’ve got an extra, so we might try that for an episode.

Um, I gotta change the horn. The horn that’s in it right now is stupid. Maybe one of these times I’ll honk it for you and let you hear it. It’s wearing, it’s really terrible, so I want to upgrade the horn. Um, at some point I may paint the truck. I’m not sure if I have the ability to actually spray paint a vehicle, but I think I’d like to try. I’ve watched a lot of videos on it. I’ve seen a lot of instructional videos and read a lot of websites and forums and stuff. And, uh, we’ll get it sanded down and strip back probably to metal and put some primer on it and get sanded and do all the blocking and everything else and then pick a color and maybe paint it.

I’ve also thought about putting vinyl on it in terms of like a vinyl wrap, although I wouldn’t wrap the entire truck, but I might wrap parts of it rather than do a two-tone paint job because I’m not sure I could pull off a good two-tone paint job, especially since I’ve never painted a vehicle before. I’ve thought fleetingly about doing a crown vic swap. So for older Ford trucks, especially older ’79 or older, the generation before mine, a lot of guys put crown vic front ends in them from 2002 and forward Crown Victorias because they basically just bolt right in, and they’re more of a car suspension, so they handle power much easier and they ride much better. You can do a crown vic swap on a bullnose. It’s a lot more work than, um, it’s called a dent side from the earlier generation up to ’79, but it can be done. So I’m thinking about that.

Regardless of whether I do that or not, I’m going to have to upgrade the suspension on the truck just because it’s a little sloppy, and I’m putting a little bit heavier engine in there, and it’s going to have more power, so I want to make sure that I’m not falling down on my suspension. Um, I’ve thought about upgrading the transmission. A, uh, NP435 isn’t exactly a race transmission. Not that I’m gonna be racing it, but it’s a very solid truck transmission that drives like a truck, and it could probably handle four or five hundred horsepower as long as you’re not working it too hard. But what I’d really like to have is the ZF5. The F5 transmission is a heavy-duty, still a truck transmission, but it’s a five-speed with overdrive. And, uh, the fact that my truck doesn’t have overdrive right now is rough, um, especially on the interstate, you know, going 65, 70 miles an hour, it’s spinning pretty high. So I’d really like to have an overdrive transmission.

If I had all kinds of money, I’d go out and get a TKO transmission and, you know, put one of those in there, but they’re big bucks, so we’ll see what happens. And I’ve also thought about maybe changing the rear end, uh, getting a locking differential or changing the gears. Um, to be honest with you, I don’t remember exactly what the gears in there are right now. I’d have to look it up. I have it written down somewhere, but I’ve thought about changing the gears and doing a gear swap in the back and adding a locking differential. Obviously, I’ll be upgrading the tires and the rims. In fact, that’s probably coming in the next couple of weeks, and, uh, I’ll be doing things here and there to spruce the truck up and, uh, just make it better overall.

So I’ve got a lot of plans, and hopefully they pan out, and hopefully you guys get to see them because I’m really excited about doing all this stuff on camera and, uh, getting some of this stuff out there, especially when it comes to the engine. I’ve got some really interesting ideas as to what I might do in terms of, you know, pistons and heads and camshaft and that kind of stuff and how I’m going to get to the horsepower numbers that I eventually want to get to. Um, thinking about maybe using some cheap eBay parts just to see how they work. I mean, I’ve got a donor engine, so if I blow it up, then, well, I mean, I still got the original 306 I could drop back in if I had to, or, you know, 351 ones aren’t that hard to find in that junkyard somewhere. So yeah, I may have a little bit of leeway to screw up. I mean, it’s my first engine build ever. I’ve never even worked in a small engine before, so, um, I may be biting off more than I can chew, but hey, you know, that’s part of the channel. That’s, uh, that’s part of what we’re doing here.

All right guys, there you go. That’s a bullnose. That’s my bullnose. That’s what I’ve done, what I plan to do, my plans for the channel, all that stuff. So if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. As always, thanks for watching guys. We’ll see you next time.

If you’ve ever wondered what makes a Bullnose Ford special, then you’re in the right place. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, where I take you through my 1985 F-150 Bullnose project truck. Why do they call it a Bullnose, you ask? Well, take a look at the front end of these trucks, built between 1980 and 1986, and you’ll see why the name fits—they’ve got a front that resembles a bull’s nose.

Why I Chose the 1985 F-150 Bullnose

I picked up this beauty because I wanted to dive into something carbureted, something I could really get my hands dirty with. After all, I’ve been a computer guy most of my life, so why not transition from coding to carburetors? This particular truck was quite the find—I had to drive all the way to San Antonio, Texas, to get it, but it was worth it. It’s in pretty good shape, with no rust and a straight body, though the paint is a bit faded.

Short Bed and Manual Transmission

One of the main reasons I went for this specific model was its short bed. I’m aiming for a sportier look, something that could handle a few extra horses under the hood. And let’s not forget the manual transmission. Yep, I taught myself to drive stick just for this truck. What better way to learn than by necessity?

The Engine Situation

Currently, the truck is running on a 306 inline six with an NP 435 manual transmission. The engine is tough, but it’s not the power plant I want for my street truck project. I’m planning a swap to a 351 Windsor small block. Eventually, I’d even like to stroke it to a 408, aiming for that sweet spot between 400 and 500 horsepower. But for now, a standard rebuild with maybe a couple of power adders will do the trick.

Mods and Upgrades: What I’ve Done So Far

I’ve already tackled quite a bit, considering I only started the channel last month but have had the truck for a couple of years. From changing fluids and replacing mirrors to updating lights and repositioning the license plate, I’ve been busy. I’ve done some interior work too, like wrapping the steering wheel and adding LED dash lights. Let’s just say I’ve had my fair share of Craigslist adventures, including a forklift mishap with the truck bed.

Future Plans: It’s All About Upgrades

The big-ticket item is, of course, the engine swap. But that’s not all. I’m planning on redoing the interior with new molding, sound deadening, and possibly reupholstering the seats. I’ve got some electrical gremlins to chase down, thanks to the previous owner’s questionable wiring.

Suspension and Transmission

Suspension upgrades are also on the horizon, especially since I’m eyeing a heavier engine. I’ve considered a Crown Vic swap, which is a popular mod for older Fords, but that’s a decision for another day. As for the transmission, while the NP435 is rock solid, I’m dreaming of a ZF5 for its overdrive capability.

The Aesthetic Side

Visually, the truck could use a refresh. Whether that means a full paint job or a vinyl wrap, I haven’t decided yet. And don’t worry, I’m planning on replacing that embarrassingly feeble horn.

Wrapping It Up

There you have it, folks. A peek into the world of my 1985 F-150 Bullnose and the plans I have for it. If you’re as excited as I am to see how this project unfolds, stick around. Feel free to drop any questions or your own Bullnose stories in the comments below. Until next time, happy wrenching!


Bullnose Garage at YouTube

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.