Tag NP435 transmission

What are the steps to find a hydraulic slave and throw-out for the NP435 in 1980-1986 Ford trucks?


Bullnose Bill explains how to find hydraulic parts for Ford trucks from 1980 to 1986.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Finding the right hydraulic slave cylinder and throw-out bearing for your NP435 transmission can be a bit of a hunt, but I’ve got some pointers to help you out.

Understanding the NP435

The NP435 is a tough, four-speed manual transmission found in many Ford trucks from the 1960s to 1990s. In a Bullnose Ford (1980–1986), it’s more likely to be paired with a mechanical linkage rather than a hydraulic one. However, if you’re looking to retrofit a hydraulic system, you’ve got options.

Retrofit Kits

  1. Hydraulic Clutch Conversions Kits:

    • Companies like American Powertrain and Modern Driveline offer hydraulic clutch conversion kits that might suit your needs. These kits generally include a master cylinder, slave cylinder, and necessary linkages or lines.
  2. Universal Hydraulic Slave Cylinders:

    • You can also look into universal hydraulic slave cylinders. These require some customization for mounting and connection to your clutch fork, but they offer flexibility.

Finding the Parts

  1. OEM Parts:

    • If your truck originally came with a hydraulic system (rare for Bullnose trucks with the NP435), check classic Ford parts suppliers or even salvage yards specializing in vintage parts.
  2. Aftermarket Options:

    • Look into aftermarket suppliers like Summit Racing, RockAuto, or LMC Truck. They might not have a direct bolt-on kit for the NP435 in a Bullnose, but they can provide components you can adapt.
  3. Fabrication:

    • Sometimes, a bit of custom fabrication is needed to get everything lined up correctly. If you’re not comfortable with this, a local machine shop or mechanic with experience in classic Ford trucks might be able to help.

Tips and Considerations

  • Pedal Assembly: Ensure your pedal assembly is compatible with a hydraulic setup. Some fabrication or swapping might be necessary.
  • Bleeding the System: Properly bleeding the hydraulic system is crucial. Any air in the lines can lead to a spongy pedal feel.
  • Compatibility: Double-check the fit and compatibility of all components with your specific truck model and year to avoid headaches down the road.

For more detailed guidance, there might be relevant videos on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that can walk you through parts of this conversion. And if you’re into community support, the Bullnose Ford subreddit could also be a good place to ask for advice from fellow enthusiasts. Good luck with your project!


User avatar
User:

I appreciate your help.

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re welcome! If you have any more questions about your Bullnose Ford or need further advice, feel free to ask. Happy wrenching!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the steps to convert a column shifter to a floor shifter in a Bullnose F-150 with an NP435 transmission?


Bullnose Bill explaining the column to floor shifter conversion for Ford F-150.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Swapping from a column shifter to a floor shifter in your Bullnose F-150 with an NP435 transmission is a fantastic way to modernize the driving experience and give your truck a fresh look! It’s a rewarding project that can really enhance your classic ride. Let’s dive into the steps you’ll need to follow!

1. Gather Your Tools and Parts

  • Tools Needed:
    • Wrenches and sockets (various sizes)
    • Screwdrivers
    • Pliers
    • Torque wrench
    • Drill (if needed for mounting brackets)
  • Parts Needed:
    • Floor shifter kit specific for the NP435 (you can find these online or at your local parts store)
    • Shifter boot and plate
    • Linkage kit (if not included with the shifter kit)

2. Remove the Column Shifter

  • Start by disconnecting the battery. Safety first!
  • Remove the steering column cover and any trim pieces that may obstruct access to the shifter.
  • Disconnect the linkage from the column shifter to the transmission. Depending on your setup, you might need to unbolt a few parts.
  • Carefully remove the column shifter by unbolting it from the steering column.

3. Prepare the Floor

  • Remove the carpet to access the floor. This will also help you see where to place the new shifter.
  • Depending on the shifter kit you choose, you might need to drill holes for mounting brackets. Be sure to measure twice to avoid any mistakes!

4. Install the Floor Shifter

  • Follow the instructions from your floor shifter kit. You’ll typically mount the shifter base to the floor using the provided brackets.
  • Install the shifter lever and ensure it moves freely without obstruction.
  • Connect the linkage from the new floor shifter to the NP435 transmission. Make sure everything is tight and secured to prevent any rattling or misalignment.

5. Fit the Shifter Boot and Trim

  • Once everything is installed, position the boot over the shifter base and secure it to the floor. This will help keep dirt and debris out of the shifter assembly.
  • Reinstall any trim pieces that were removed and make sure everything looks neat.

6. Reconnect the Battery and Test

  • Reconnect your battery and start the truck. Take it for a test drive to ensure the shifter operates smoothly and that the linkage is correctly adjusted.

7. Final Checks

  • After a short drive, double-check all bolts and connections to ensure nothing has come loose.

Additional Tips:

  • If you haven’t done any shifter swaps before, consider watching a video tutorial for visual guidance. The Bullnose Garage YouTube channel often has practical tips and walkthroughs that can help you through this process!
  • Don’t hesitate to reach out to the community on the Bullnose Ford subreddit if you have any specific questions or run into issues.

This project might take a bit of time, but the satisfaction of shifting through those gears on the floor is well worth it. Happy wrenching! If you have any more questions or need clarification, feel free to ask!


User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

Which floor shifter kits are recommended for this conversion?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Absolutely! There are a few solid options out there for floor shifter kits that work well with the NP435 transmission in your Bullnose F-150. Here are a couple of recommendations:

1. Hurst Shifter Kits

  • Hurst offers a great reputation and quality when it comes to shifters. Their kits are well-engineered and provide a smooth, positive shift feel. Look for their specific NP435 shifter kit; it should include everything you need for a straightforward installation.

2. B&M Floor Shifter Kits

  • B&M is another popular choice among gearheads. They have a variety of shifter kits that are compatible with the NP435. Their products typically come with detailed instructions, making installation easier for DIYers.

3. Lokar Shifter Kits

  • If you’re looking for something with a bit more style, Lokar offers shifter kits that boast a vintage look with modern performance. Their kits often come with a variety of options for knobs and finishes, allowing you to customize the interior of your Bullnose.

4. DIY Solutions

  • If you’re feeling adventurous, some enthusiasts opt for a custom or DIY approach using generic shifter components. You’ll need to source parts that work with NP435 and ensure proper linkage, but this can lead to a unique setup tailored to your preferences.

Where to Buy

You can typically find these kits online at major auto parts retailers like Summit Racing, Jegs, or even Amazon. Local hot rod shops might also have them in stock.

Each kit will have its own set of instructions, so be sure to read through those carefully. And, as always, check out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for any install tips or tricks that might help you along the way. Happy swapping, and let me know if you need anything else!

User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

Is it necessary to cover the old column shifter holes?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Yes, you’ll definitely want to plug the old holes where the column shifter was mounted once you’ve completed the swap to a floor shifter. This will help maintain a clean appearance in your interior and prevent any unwanted debris or moisture from entering the cab. Here are a couple of options for addressing those holes:

1. Rubber or Plastic Plugs

  • You can find rubber or plastic plugs at most auto parts stores or online. These are designed to fit various hole sizes and can be a quick and effective way to seal off the old holes.

2. Metal or Fabricated Plates

  • If you want a more permanent and aesthetically pleasing solution, consider fabricating a small plate or using a metal cover to seal the holes. You can paint it to match your interior or use a simple black or silver finish for a clean look.

3. Body Filler

  • For a more involved approach, you could use body filler to fill the holes completely, then sand and paint the area to match your truck’s interior. This method requires more work but can result in a seamless finish.

Final Tip

Make sure whatever method you choose is secure and weather-resistant, especially if your truck sees any outdoor use. Keeping your Bullnose looking sharp is half the fun! If you need more tips or have other questions, feel free to ask!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What do I need for a 460 engine swap in my 1985 F150?


Bullnose Bill explaining the 1985 Ford F150 460 engine swap process.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Sure thing! Swapping a 460 big-block into your ’85 F150 with a 300 inline-six is a popular upgrade for more power. Let’s break it down into the key areas you need to address:

Engine Mounts

  • Mounts: You’ll need engine mounts specific to the 460. The frame-side brackets from a big-block F250 of the same era should work. Aftermarket kits are also available if you can’t source originals.
  • Clearance: The 460 is wider and taller than the 300, so check for clearance around the brake booster and steering components.

Transmission

  • Bellhousing: The NP435 you have won’t bolt directly to the 460. You’ll need a bellhousing compatible with the 460. Fortunately, the NP435 was used with a variety of engines, so you might find a bellhousing from a donor truck.
  • Clutch: Ensure your clutch setup fits the 460’s flywheel. You may need a new clutch kit to match the bellhousing and 460 flywheel.

Exhaust

  • Headers/Manifolds: Stock manifolds from the 460 donor might fit, but headers designed for the swap can improve performance and fitment.
  • Exhaust Routing: You’ll probably need a custom exhaust setup from the headers back to accommodate the chassis and clearance changes.

Cooling System

  • Radiator: The 460 will generate more heat than your 300, so upgrade to a larger radiator. A V8 radiator from a similar era F-Series should suffice.
  • Fan Shroud: Ensure you have the correct fan shroud for the new radiator and engine position.

Fuel System

  • Fuel Pump: The 460 from ’89 likely uses an electric fuel pump, so you’ll need to update your fuel system if your truck still has the mechanical pump setup.
  • Fuel Lines: Ensure fuel lines are rated for higher pressure if upgrading to an electric pump.

Electrical and Accessories

  • Wiring Harness: You’ll need to modify or replace sections of your engine wiring harness to accommodate the 460’s electronic components.
  • Alternator and Brackets: Make sure you have the correct brackets for the alternator and other accessories.

Driveshaft

  • Length and Yokes: The driveshaft might need modification in length, and possibly a new yoke, depending on the placement of the 460 and the transmission setup.

Additional Considerations

  • Weight and Suspension: The 460 is heavier than the 300, so consider upgrading front springs or shocks to handle the extra weight.
  • Documentation: Keep track of part numbers and sources for everything you change. This will help for future repairs or replacements.

This is a general roadmap, and specific needs can vary depending on the exact components from the donor and your preferences. Keep in mind, the Bullnose Ford subreddit (reddit.com/r/bullnoseford) is a great place to connect with others who’ve done similar swaps. Good luck with your project, and feel free to ask if you have more questions!


User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

Is the NP435 input shaft compatible with the C6 for this swap?

Bill avatar

Bill:

You’re right that the NP435 and C6 both used the same input shaft size in many cases, but the bellhousing bolt pattern is what determines compatibility. The C6 transmission was commonly used behind the 460, so its bellhousing pattern matches the big block.

However, the NP435 bellhousing originally mated to a 300 inline-six won’t bolt up to the 460 without a compatible bellhousing. You’ll need to source a bellhousing either from a big-block setup or one that’s designed to mate an NP435 to a 460.

Here’s a quick checklist:

  • Bellhousing: Make sure you have one that fits the 460.
  • Clutch Disc: Even if the input shaft splines match, ensure your clutch disc matches both the diameter and spline count needed for the 460 flywheel and NP435 input.
  • Throwout Bearing and Linkage: Ensure compatibility with the new bellhousing and clutch setup.

Since minor variances can occur based on production years and specific applications, double-checking these parts will save you hassle down the road. Always good to measure twice and swap once! If you’ve got more questions, just let me know.

User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

How does swapping a 460 into my truck differ from 1986 4×4 models?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Great question! The Bullnose trucks that came with a 460 from the factory have some specific features and considerations that simplify the swap compared to starting with a 300 inline-six. Here’s a breakdown:

Factory 460 Setup

  • Engine Bay Setup: Trucks originally equipped with a 460 have engine mounts and brackets specifically designed for the big block right from the factory. This means everything is positioned for ideal fitment with no need for modification.

  • Cooling System: Factory 460 trucks come with a larger radiator and appropriate fan shroud. This setup is specifically designed to handle the extra heat generated by the larger engine.

  • Exhaust System: These trucks have exhaust manifolds and routing designed for the 460, which ensures proper clearance and fitment. Custom exhaust work is usually unnecessary.

  • Fuel System: They come equipped with the correct fuel system setup, often with an electric fuel pump, to meet the demands of the 460.

  • Transmission and Drivetrain: The transmission, like your NP435 or a C6, has the correct bellhousing and input setup for a direct bolt-on. Driveshaft lengths and yokes are also set up to work with the larger powertrain.

Differences When Starting with a 300 Inline-Six

  • Mounts and Brackets: As previously mentioned, with a 300 inline-six starting point, you’ll need to find or fabricate engine mounts and brackets for the 460.

  • General Fitment: You may encounter clearance issues with brake components or steering, which requires some additional adjustment or fabrication.

  • Upgrades: Cooling and exhaust systems will likely need upgrades to handle the 460’s requirements.

Other Considerations

  • Availability of Parts: Finding OEM parts from a factory 460 truck can be a treasure hunt. Junkyards or forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit can be valuable resources.

  • Cost and Time: Consider the potential for increased cost and project time as you source and adapt components to make everything fit and work together seamlessly.

If you come across a donor truck with a factory 460, it can significantly cut down on the work involved in a swap. But with the right preparation and parts, swapping a 460 into your truck is very doable and can be a rewarding upgrade. Keep the questions coming if you need more info!

User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

Would using a 1985 2WD with a 460 and 33" tires require any modifications?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Looks like that’s a variation of something we’ve already covered. The change in tire size or setup won’t significantly affect the answer. Let’s dig into a new topic! If there’s something else you’d like to explore, feel free to ask.

User avatar

View Table of Contents

User:

Is there a Bullnose Garage video on this full engine swap?

Bill avatar

Bill:

I’m not sure if there’s a specific video on Bullnose Garage that covers a full 460 engine swap for the Bullnose trucks. However, I’d recommend checking out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for any related content, as they often cover engine swaps and similar projects. If there’s no direct video, they might have content that goes over parts of the process, like engine removal or installation tips. It’s definitely worth a look. If you have more questions or need further guidance, just let me know!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

Bullnose Bronco

Published on January 30, 2025

Click to play the video inline  or  see it on YouTube

Part of the The Bullnose Bronco series.

Want to see more like this? Subscribe to Bullnose Garage!

Show Transcript

You know guys, sometimes doing YouTube is hard, and it takes a lot of time to make videos and a lot of time to sit down and do the research and write the scripts and do all this stuff. So I thought this week I’d try to catch up a little bit, just do a real quick simple video about my plans for the Bullnose. You know, I haven’t done one of those in a while, and that way you guys can kind of see what the plans for the Bullnose are going to be. So, uh, oh, I, uh, yeah, you already know the plans for this Bullnose. I mean, the plan for this Bullnose. Hello, hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and meet Bullnose number two. She’s a 1982 Ford Bronco. Just picked her up this weekend from my actual friend that I’ve got in another town over. He saw my channel, went, ‘Hey, I got a Bullnose rotting out in my yard. You want to come pick her up and add her to your list of projects?’ I thought, ‘Ah, you know what? Why not? Because one Bullnose is never enough, right? Mongo’s Garage, mm, I’m coming for you. I got two now!’ Actually, no, I will never have as many Bullnoses as those dudes have. That is crazy. Anyway, I just thought I would introduce you and let you take a look and talk a little bit about what my plans are.

So this old girl is much rougher than my ’85, but one thing I love about her is that she has a manual transmission. Of course, being a Bronco, she’s a 4×4. She’s pretty rough, but you know, that’s okay because I’m going to cut my teeth on my ’85 and learn my way in and out of these things really, really well, and then we will start restoring this girl right here. Now, as you can see, she does have a little bit of rust coming in down through here and some back over here. My guess is, I’m not sure if you can see that from the camera. I guess you can. And so my guess is that the guy who the previous owner had was doing some mudding and some off-roading and stuff, and those tend to be the places where the mud and the grime and the stuff gets caught up in the fender wells and up inside of here. And so that’s where a lot of dirt and debris and G got caught up in there. As a matter of fact, I can see some, um, already in there. See if I can feel the dust coming out of there. Dust and dirt with grunge and stuff in there. You can actually see where there’s some rocks and dirt caught up inside of there. So my guess is that that stuff got wet and just stayed wet for a while, packed up in there, and that’s where that rust happens.

You got the same thing over by the tailgate. You can see pretty clearly down here on the bottom there. So this tailgate is pretty much roached. I could probably fix this, I guess, but I don’t think I’m going to. They make repop tailgates for these, so I’ll probably just go ahead and do that. The rear window, unfortunately, doesn’t go up and down. I think that’s probably because the motor is busted. So the rear window has been down for a long time, and so that’s allowed the elements to get in here. So the inside of this, especially in the back, is pretty well roached out. But you know, it wouldn’t be a project if it was easy. So my current plan is to take the tailgate off, replace it with a new one. Probably I’ll cut some panels out of this and use them to fill in some of the body areas and the other parts of the truck that are a little bit rusted out. Teach myself how to weld body panels and do some fill and that kind of stuff, just kind of make it look nice. This one, the plan is not to be a show truck like my other truck is. This one is actually going to be something a little bit different.

So my plan for this truck is to be a desert crawler. We’re out here in the desert Southwest. There’s a lot of trails and mountains and stuff here, so I figure I could, uh, you know, it’s kind of pretty much already set for it, right? That’s what a Bronco is. So, uh, I’m not going to go like full pre-run or anything, but just, you know, give it like maybe a 4-inch lift with a 1-inch body lift, and I’ll put some bigger tires on it. You know, it’s already got the 49 in the rear, and it’s got a J44 TTB in the front. And I think, uh, you know, if I just beef up the components for both of those, that should give me what I need to be able to go out and do some serious desert crawling around here. You know, just kind of clean it up and clean up the rust and make sure that it runs right. Now, it’s not roadworthy, unfortunately. Now, it does run, and it actually runs like a top. It’s got an inline six in it, which is awesome, and I think the inline six in this thing runs almost as good as the inline six in my ’85. Now, of course, you guys that are paying attention to my channel all the time know that I’m pulling the inline six out of the ’85 and putting a 351 Windsor in and stroking it to 408. That is not what’s happening to this thing. You guys don’t have to worry. This truck is keeping the inline six. I probably will pull the inline six out of this and do some refreshing on it. I may decide to do some mods to it. You know, there’s some talk in my channel comments about, you know, did you see this where they turboed inline sixes and all this stuff? You know, I might look into some of that stuff. I don’t know that I have the chops for a project like that yet, but you know, by the time I get done building my Windsor and stuff, maybe I’ll feel more comfortable around that stuff, so I might give it a try. Anyway, but regardless, the inline six in this thing is a puller. It’s a workhorse. It got me up on the trailer no problem. There’s some fuel issues, so you have to actually, uh, here, you know what? I’ll show you. There we go. Ah, all right, so there we go. There’s the old inline six in there, and right now the only way I can get it to run is to throw some fuel in a water bottle like this and spray some fuel down in the carb, and then she’ll run. And she runs really, really good. The inline six in this purrs like a kitten, so I’m really happy about that. But, um, I’m not sure what’s going on with the fuel line. I’m not sure why it can’t pull fuel from the fuel tank. I got to look into that. The brakes are basically shot. When we dropped it back off the trailer, I had to actually put it in gear and pop the clutch to make sure that it didn’t roll back into my wall over here. So, uh, yeah, the brakes are pretty much shot. I got to do a complete brake job. I’ve already got a video series on my complete brake job on the other truck, so I won’t bore you with doing that whole thing again. But at least I know what I’m doing there, so I’ll do that. It needs new parking brake. Yeah, obviously. I mean, there’s no, uh, coating in it. There’s, uh, I don’t have any idea what the condition of the oil is. Um, you know, I got to look at all that stuff. But the engine itself runs really well. And you know, my thought was that even a worst-case scenario, the engine in this turned out to not run very well, I can always pull the 300 six out of my other truck and pop it in here and use that. But I don’t think I’m going to have to. I think I can just use the 300 that’s in here, and we’ll see. You know, I’ll get them both out at some point and see which one I want to use for my rebuild.

But yeah, so if you were paying attention to the engine when I had it closer up here, one thing you’ll notice that this truck does not have is air conditioning. And if you’ve watched a couple of my videos before, you know that I specifically bought my other truck because it has air conditioning and because it’s so damn hot down here in the Southwest when it gets to be in the summer. So, uh, that’s kind of okay for this build. Again, this is not going to be an around-town cruiser, really. It’s going to be mostly going out in the desert and having fun. So most of the time, I think this will have windows down, top off, that kind of stuff. But, uh, I still think I want to put AC in it, so I may make a video series about putting AC in a non-AC Bullnose. Um, because that’s, you know, I think that’s worth the content. And I actually do have a dash already from an AC Bullnose truck that I might be able to use as parts and pieces for this. I don’t know how hard that’ll be. I haven’t actually done the research to see how hard it’ll be to put an AC in a non-AC truck, but there are kits that you can use that’ll do that even if you don’t use the factory AC. So, um, yeah, we’ll see how that goes.

All right guys, here we are underneath the Bronco, and you can get a good look at what’s going on down here. There’s the Dana 44 front TTB, and, uh, let’s see, this, believe it or not, is an NP435 transmission. This is the same manual transmission that I got in the ’85. Um, with these trucks for a manual, it’s either going to be a T18 or an NP435, and you can tell this was an NP435 because it’s got the PTO cover on the passenger side right there. You can also see the drain plug is indicative of an NP435 too. So, uh, yeah, same transmission, and that transmission is going to stay in here because NP435 is basically bulletproof, and it’s perfect for a desert runner, desert crawler like I want to build here. So, uh, yeah, as long as it shifts well, which I think it seems to so far, but I haven’t had it out on the road to test it. But yeah, so we’re definitely going to keep that. And as you can see, there’s not really a lot of rust. There’s some surface rust on the frame, nothing real bad. There is some rust there under the seat pan. I think that happens quite a bit in these trucks, so I’ll have to cut that out, put some rust inhibitor or converter on there, and eventually cut that out and probably weld a little pan or something in there to make sure that doesn’t get any worse, make sure it can support my amper frame while I’m in the truck. And then, uh, yeah, so scoot back here. All right, scooting back just a little bit, you can see the transfer case here. I believe it’s an NP205, although I’m not 100% sure. I got to check this tag here and double check, but, uh, I think that’s going to be what it is. Believe it or not, guys, I was wrong. It’s actually a Borg Warner 1345, not a New Process 205 transfer case. Both of those transfer cases were used in this era of Bullnose Broncos, so I wasn’t sure which one it was, and I took a stab, and I was wrong. They’re both really good transfer cases. They’re both pretty similar. The Borg Warner’s got a chain drive, and the NP205’s got a gear drive. I’ll do another video about the differences in the different transfer case options that there are, but I think I’m probably going to go ahead and stick with what I’ve got. I’ll do a service on it and make sure that it runs okay. But, uh, yeah, so it’s a Borg Warner 1345. And then, uh, yeah, you can see underneath here to the back, got the famous Ford 9 inch, which I’m super excited about. It’s not an end case, though I wouldn’t expect it to be an ’82 Bronco. So, uh, but it should still do perfectly for what I want. Beef it up a little bit, put some high spline axles in there and, you know, a locker and some stuff, and we’ll be good to go there. And then, yeah, the driver’s side of the body here doesn’t look too bad. Um, so I think I’m in good shape. There’s some surface rust on the cross member and the frame and just in general, but there’s no rot through. It’s just surface stuff. So, man, got rust falling on me. Uh, but hey, you know, that’s part of the job. So, yeah, um, I’m super happy with it. I’m looking forward to digging into this thing and see what we can make out of it.

All right guys, well then, these are the twin sisters of Bullnose Garage. They’re not identical, just like my other twin girls aren’t identical, but they’re both the same vintage, and one’s an ’85 F150 and one’s an ’82 Bronco. Um, yeah, I’m super, super thrilled of them both. Can’t wait to get them both on the road and going. This one here will obviously get done first. Uh, this is one that I put the new engine in, the 408 that’s going to go in here. Uh, this one has got a lot of work yet to do. I got to do some body work and, uh, obviously work on the engine fueling system, brakes, all that stuff. The fiberglass cab’s got some issues. Some of the fiberglass is kind of getting worn down. I got to, uh, probably coat that and put a coat of paint on it and stuff. But you know what? I’m going to bring you guys along for all that stuff. Uh, you know, this whole channel, everything’s about me cutting my teeth and getting some experience on some of the stuff that I don’t really know that much about. So, uh, yeah, looking forward to getting both these girls fixed up and ready to go. And if you want to be along for the ride, make sure you like and subscribe. I really appreciate that. And like I said, I got that 408 that I’m getting ready to build that’s coming up on the channel. So if you want to see what I’m doing there, make sure you subscribe and, uh, you know, ring the bell and keep in touch with all that stuff. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, C interet ramblings, stick them below. And thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Take her away, getting things to shine. That Bullnose Garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage. Sometimes, diving into the YouTube vortex can feel like a grind, so this week, I decided to keep things simple and share my latest project—a 1982 Ford Bronco that’s seen better days. But hey, one man’s rust bucket is another man’s desert crawler, right?

Meet the 1982 Ford Bronco

Say hello to my second Bullnose, a 1982 Ford Bronco I recently picked up from a friend. Now, she’s a far cry from my ’85 F150, which is destined for a full restoration. This Bronco, on the other hand, is packed with potential to become a rugged desert crawler. She comes with a manual transmission and, of course, the 4×4 setup you’d expect in a Bronco. It’s a bit of a fixer-upper, but that’s the fun part.

Rust and Repairs

This old girl has her fair share of rust—especially around the fender wells and tailgate. The previous owner was likely into mudding, which tends to trap grime and moisture in all the wrong places. The tailgate is a goner, but thanks to the wonders of reproduction parts, that’s an easy swap. The rear window motor is shot, so the elements have had free rein inside for a while. But hey, that’s what makes it a project truck, right?

A Desert Crawler in the Making

Living in the desert Southwest, turning this Bronco into a desert crawler is practically a no-brainer. I’m planning a modest 4-inch lift with a 1-inch body lift, along with beefier tires. Under the hood, she’s got an inline-six that, surprisingly, runs like a charm. For now, it’s staying put. The NP435 transmission is a keeper too—it’s as bulletproof as they come and perfect for a desert runner.

Tackling Unique Challenges

Adding A/C to this non-A/C truck is on the to-do list. Let’s face it, the desert heat doesn’t play nice. I’ve got a dash from an A/C Bullnose that might come in handy. Installing A/C in a truck that never had it will be a challenge, but hey, who doesn’t love a good DIY project?

Under the Hood and Chassis

The engine purrs like a kitten once I manually feed it fuel, so there’s some detective work to be done with the fuel line. The brakes are shot, which isn’t a surprise. I’ve got a brake job series already, so no need to rehash that. The Borg Warner 1345 transfer case and Ford 9-inch rear end are solid, just needing some TLC to get them trail-ready.

Wrapping Up

So, these are the twins of Bullnose Garage—an ’85 F150 and an ’82 Bronco. Both have their quirks, but that’s what makes them fun. The Bronco might be rough around the edges, but with a little elbow grease, she’ll be tearing up the desert trails in no time. If you want to keep up with the chaos, make sure you subscribe and maybe ring that bell. I’ve got a 408 stroker build coming up too, so stick around for that.

Check it out above, and let me know what you think. Questions, comments, or just want to share your own project woes? Drop them below.


Bullnose Garage at YouTube

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.
np435 Video

Published on August 27, 2024

Click to play the video inline  or  see it on YouTube

Want to see more like this? Subscribe to Bullnose Garage!

Show Transcript

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today I’m actually out in my bun, driving around, so forgive the bumps and rattles and, you know, some of the noises that happen with an older truck. Today I’m here to talk about the NP435 transmission, which is this puppy right here. That’s what’s in my truck. It is a solid workhorse of a transmission and, uh, it’s certainly worth your consideration if you want to do a, uh, a swap or if you’ve already got one you want to do a rebuild. Uh, it’s probably worth your time. I’m going to get into exactly what everything is, how it works, uh, what all the stats are, that kind of stuff. Keep in mind, uh, this video is Bullnose-centric because it’s Bullnose Garage. So while I know, uh, that the NP435 was used in other vehicles like, um, you know, basically all kinds of vehicles across the board, uh, what I’m going to be focusing on are the Bullnose vehicles, the Fords. So you’re going to see some information in the video that is specific, uh, to the Ford versions. So that’s because I’m a Ford guy, you know, that’s how it works. So while I pop up onto the interstate here and let this engine scream for mercy as it goes into the high fourth gear on the transmission because there’s no overdrive, let’s, uh, go ahead and get into it.

Hello, the NP435. This manual gearbox isn’t just a transmission; it’s a piece of engineering that stood the test of time. Known for its durability and versatility, whether you’re restoring a classic or just curious about what’s under the hood, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know about the NP435, from its gear ratios and shift pattern to the engines it pairs with and how to keep it running smoothly. The NP435 is a four-speed manual gearbox designed with one goal in mind: durability. Built by New Process Gear, a name synonymous with heavy duty, this transmission has been a workhorse in Ford’s lineup since the 1960s. It was a natural fit for the Bullnose trucks and Broncos of the 1980s, providing the kind of robust performance that these vehicles are known for.

Now, what makes the NP435 particularly interesting is its gear setup. You’ve got four forward gears, but they’re not all synchronized. Second through fourth gears are synchronized, making for smooth shifts during regular driving. The first gear, often called the granny gear, and reverse, they’re not synchronized. So if you’re trying to pop into first while still rolling, you’re in for a bit of a grind, literally. But that’s by design because first gear is really meant for when you need serious torque to get moving, especially with a heavy load. So let’s talk gear ratios. The NP435 is known for its particularly low first gear, which is what gives it that reputation as a workhorse. In most Ford applications, you’ll find the following ratios: first gear 6.69 to 1, second gear 3.34 to 1, third gear 1.66 to 1, fourth gear 1 to 1, or direct drive, and reverse 8.26 to 1. There’s also a version with a slightly less extreme first gear at 4.85 to 1, but the low ratio version is what you’ll most commonly find in these Bullnose trucks. That first gear at 6.69 to 1 isn’t something you’d use in everyday driving unless your everyday involves towing a tractor out of a ditch or crawling over boulders. It’s all about giving you the torque to move heavy loads or navigate through terrain with confidence.

The shift pattern on this transmission is pretty straightforward. Here’s how it’s laid out: first gear is up and to the left, second is down to the left, third is straight up in the middle, fourth is straight down in the middle, and reverse, that’s far right and down. Now this pattern is practical, especially for a transmission designed to handle tough jobs. First gear is intentionally out of the way so you don’t accidentally engage it when you’re moving through the more commonly used gears. Moving on to the physical aspects of the NP435, this transmission is built like a tank. The case is made of cast iron, which gives it that characteristic durability but also adds some serious heft. At around 130 lbs, this isn’t the kind of transmission you casually toss around the garage. It’s hefty for a reason; it’s built to withstand the kind of stress that comes with heavy duty use. For the four version, the input shaft, which connects to your engine, has a diameter of 1 and 1/16 in with 10 splines. You’ll also notice a power takeoff or PTO port on the passenger side of the case. This cast iron construction and solid internals are part of why the NP435 has such a loyal following. It’s not flashy, but it’s the kind of component that you can rely on when the going gets tough.

So what can you bolt this transmission up to? The NP435 is versatile, fitting a range of engines that you typically find in Bullnose Ford trucks and Broncos. Whether you’re running the venerable Ford 300 inline 6 or one of the V8s like the 302, 351 Windsor, 400, or even the big 460, the NP435 has you covered. This flexibility made it a popular choice in a wide range of Ford trucks, from daily drivers to heavy duty workhorses. When it comes to fluids, the NP435 calls for SAE 50 weight oil or 80W90 gear oil. You might be tempted to use modern synthetic oils, and that’s fine, but make sure they’re compatible with the brass synchronizers inside the transmission. These old school gearboxes weren’t designed with synthetic fluids in mind, so using the wrong type can cause more harm than good. The transmission holds about 4.5 quarts, and it’s wise to change it every 30,000 to 50,000 miles, especially if you’re working the truck hard. The NP435 typically pairs with the mechanical clutch linkage in these trucks, which is straightforward and reliable. Depending on your specific setup, the clutch diameter usually hovers around 11 in, but there’s some variation depending on the engine and vehicle configuration.

When it comes to transfer cases, the NP435 is highly compatible with several options, making it a favorite among those building serious off-roaders or towing rigs. You’ve got the NP205, a gear-driven, highly durable transfer case that’s pretty much bulletproof. Then there’s the NP28, which is chain-driven and a bit lighter but still solid for most uses. The Borg Warner 1345 is also another option, reliable, chain-driven, and well-suited to off-road adventures. This compatibility with multiple transfer cases makes the NP435 a versatile option, whether you’re building a truck for the trail or the highway. Now cooling, unlike modern transmissions that might have dedicated cooling systems, the NP435 keeps it simple. It relies on air cooling, with a cast iron case acting as a heat sink to dissipate the warmth generated during operation. For most driving conditions, this setup works fine. However, if you’re planning on running it hard, whether that’s towing heavy loads or spending long hours off-road, make sure the transmission gets plenty of airflow. Overheating isn’t a common issue, but it’s something to be mindful of in extreme conditions.

Speaking of running hard, the NP435 can handle up to 450 ft-lbs of torque. That’s a significant amount, and it’s more than enough for the engines it typically pairs with. Whether you’re hauling, towing, or off-roading, this transmission is built to take the stress without breaking a sweat. Driving with the NP435 is an experience that feels more mechanical, more connected to the truck. Low first gear, often called granny gear, is great for when you need to get a heavy load moving or navigate tough terrain, but in everyday driving, most people start in second gear. The shifts are deliberate; there’s no rushing this transmission, and that’s part of its charm. On the highway, the direct drive fourth gear allows you to cruise comfortably, although the RPMs are higher than what you’d see with modern overdrive transmissions. But that’s the trade-off: you get strength and simplicity, but not necessarily the refinement of newer gearboxes. The NP435 shines in situations where durability and reliability are more important than smoothness. It’s excellent for off-road driving, towing, and any situation where you need to trust your transmission to get the job done.

When it comes to keeping your NP435 in good shape, regular maintenance, as usual, is key. Fluid changes are a must, especially if you’re putting the transmission through its paces. Luckily, routine service like this is straightforward, although the weight and bulk of the NP435 can make more in-depth work a bit challenging. Rebuilding the NP435 isn’t overly complicated compared to other transmissions, but it does require some mechanical know-how and the right tools. A full rebuild kit will set you back somewhere between $400 and $700, depending on the quality of the parts. Uh, if you need to replace major components or if the transmission is in particularly rough shape, a professional rebuild might be in order, and that could run you anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500. Given the longevity of this transmission, though, it could be a solid investment. The NP435 is renowned for its durability; with proper maintenance, this transmission can easily last over 200,000 miles. It’s a workhorse designed to handle tough conditions, whether that’s off-road, towing, or just the rigors of daily driving. But like any mechanical component, it does have its potential issues. Synchronizers in second through fourth gear can wear over time, especially if the transmission hasn’t been well-maintained. Bearings can also wear out, particularly if the fluid hasn’t been changed regularly. And if you’re doing a lot of heavy off-roading, the input shaft might show signs of wear sooner than expected. Despite these potential issues, the NP435’s reputation for reliability is well-earned. It’s built to last, and with a little care, it will.

The NP435 has been around since the 1960s, making it one of the more enduring designs in heavy-duty transmissions. Ford used it extensively across its truck lineup, from the F100 to the F350 and even in the Broncos. Here’s a quick rundown of where you might find one: at the Ford F100 from 1966 to 1983, the Ford F-150 from 1975 to 1986, the Ford F250 from 1966 to 1987, the Ford F350 from 1966 to 1987, and the Ford Bronco from 1966 to 1977. The NP435 was favored for its ability to handle the demands of these trucks, whether that was for work, off-road, or just reliable daily driving. And thanks to its popularity and long production run, the NP435 enjoys pretty strong aftermarket support. Whether you’re looking for a rebuild kit, replacement parts, or performance upgrades, there is no shortage of options. Popular modifications include upgrading the bearings, altering gear ratios for specific applications, and modifying the shifter for a shorter throw, especially useful in off-road setups. And this transmission might not have the glamour of modern units, but its reliability and the wealth of available parts and upgrades make it a favorite among enthusiasts.

So that all sounds great. The NP435 is strong, it’s reliable, it’s heavy-duty, and it can handle pretty much whatever you throw at it. And, uh, I’m pulling right out and putting in something different. Ed, Ed, why do you do this? You’re doing this to your 3006, and now you’re doing it to your NP435 too. Why do you keep changing things? Why do you keep pulling the most reliable components out of your truck? Well, to start with, the NP435 is a four-speed with a really low first gear. Now that’s great for heavy-duty tasks, but it can feel a bit clunky and unnecessary on the street, and I’m building a street truck. And I always start off in second gear and can count on one hand the times I’ve used first gear in a real-world situation. The shifts are heavy, and there’s no synchro in first, which means I’ve got to double clutch if I want to drop down into first while rolling. Now for some folks, that’s part of the charm. There’s a raw mechanical feel that reminds you that you’re driving something built to last. But if talking about refinement for a street queen is what my truck will be, the NP435 leaves a bit to be desired. The shifts are more of a workout compared to modern transmissions, and you’re going to feel every bit of that ruggedness in your hands. It’s not the smoothest operator, and on the highway, that missing fifth gear means my Windsor is going to be revving higher than I’m going to like. It gets the job done, but it’s not what I would call a relaxing drive.

So my choice? The ZF5 is a 5-speed manual, and that extra gear makes a world of difference when you’re just out for a drive. For starters, the ZF5 is a more refined transmission all around. It’s got synchronized gears across the board, which means shifts are smoother and easier, even in first. Everything about the ZF5 feels more polished and suited to street driving. The gear ratios are more evenly spaced, which will give me better control over the power from my built 351 Windsor. And where the ZF5 really shines is that fifth gear. On the highway, it lets the engine settle into a nice, comfortable RPM, making for a quieter, more fuel-efficient drive. And you’ll notice the difference right away: less noise, less strain on the engine, and an overall smoother ride. So if, like me, you’re setting up your truck for street use and you want to enjoy those horses without feeling like you’re in a tug of war with the gearbox, I’d say the ZF5 is the way to go. It’s smoother, quieter, and just more enjoyable for everyday driving. The NP435 has its charm, no doubt, but for a refined street experience, the ZF5 will make the truck a joy to drive, whether I’m cruising around town or hitting the highway.

All that said, the NP435 isn’t just a transmission; it’s a testament to durable, no-nonsense engineering. While it might lack the smoothness and refinement of more modern gearboxes, that strength and reliability more than make up for it. Whether you’re restoring a classic Bullnose Ford or just need a transmission you can count on, the NP435 is a solid choice, and it’s built to last. So as you guys can see and probably hear, I’m out here on the interstate going about 65 mph, and that’s about as fast as I can get this rig to go using the, uh, NP435 and my inline 6. And at 65, I’m in fourth gear, spinning about 26 or 2700 RPM, so it’s pretty high. It’d be nice to have an overdrive.

All right, guys, well that’s the NP435, everything that I know or pretend to know about this solid workhorse of a transmission. Hopefully, you learned something; that’s always my goal in all my videos is to, uh, impart knowledge, take the stuff that I’ve learned, stuff that I’ve researched, and pass it on to folks, uh, to maybe help them out a little bit. So you know, now’s the time that I ask, if you really want to support the channel, I’d appreciate a like, a subscribe, uh, drop a comment down below. Hey, if you really want to support me and get some cool stuff, check out my merch store. I’ve got a lot of really cool designs on there that I’m really happy with, you know, uh, especially get here if you, uh, like a little bit of granny gear. Yeah, get your granny on. Was that creepy? I feel like that was creepy. All right, guys, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys. Oh, and by the way, that link is bullnosegarage.com merch. Get your granny on. Thanks again for watching, guys. We will see you next time. Oh.

Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, folks! Today, we’re diving into a piece of mechanical history that’s been pulling its weight in Ford trucks for decades—the NP435 4-speed transmission. This isn’t your run-of-the-mill gearbox; it’s a rugged workhorse that’s as tough as nails and has stood the test of time. Whether you’re knee-deep in a restoration project, contemplating a transmission swap, or just curious about what makes this beast tick, you’re in the right place.

What is the NP435?

The NP435 is a four-speed manual transmission that was designed with one primary goal in mind: durability. Built by New Process Gear, this gearbox has been a staple in Ford’s lineup since the 1960s. It’s a natural fit for the Bullnose trucks and Broncos of the 1980s, known for their robust performance and no-nonsense engineering.

Gear Ratios and Shift Pattern

Let’s talk numbers. The NP435 sports gear ratios designed to maximize torque, especially in first gear. In most Ford applications, you’ll find a first gear ratio of 6.69 to 1, which is fantastic if you’re looking to pull a house off its foundation. Second gear is at 3.34 to 1, third at 1.66 to 1, and fourth gear is a 1 to 1 direct drive. Reverse comes in at a steep 8.26 to 1. This setup is perfect for heavy-duty tasks, but it might feel a bit out of place on your daily commute.

The shift pattern is pretty straightforward. First gear is up and to the left, second is down to the left, third is straight up in the middle, fourth is straight down in the middle, and reverse is far right and down. It’s practical and keeps you from accidentally hitting that granny gear when you really don’t want to.

Physical Characteristics

If you’re thinking of getting yourself one of these, be prepared for some heavy lifting. The NP435 is built like a tank, with a cast iron case that adds up to a hefty 130 lbs. This weight isn’t just for show; it’s what gives the transmission its legendary durability. The input shaft measures 1 and 1/16 inches in diameter with 10 splines, and there’s a Power Take-Off (PTO) port on the passenger side for those extra accessories.

Engine and Transfer Case Compatibility

One of the things that makes the NP435 so versatile is its compatibility with a range of engines. Whether you’re running a Ford 300 inline 6, or a V8 like the 302, 351 Windsor, 400, or the big 460, this transmission fits right in. As for transfer cases, the NP435 plays well with the bulletproof NP205, the chain-driven NP208, and the reliable Borg Warner 1345.

Maintenance and Potential Issues

Keeping the NP435 in working order isn’t too difficult. It takes about 4.5 quarts of SAE 50 weight oil or 80W90 gear oil, and it’s wise to change it every 30,000 to 50,000 miles. While it’s a tough nut, it’s not indestructible. Synchronizers in second through fourth gear can wear over time, especially if the transmission hasn’t been well-loved. Bearings can also wear out, and if you’re doing a lot of off-roading, the input shaft might show signs of wear sooner than expected.

Why I’m Swapping to the ZF5

Now, you might be wondering why I’m swapping this beast out for a ZF5. Well, while the NP435 is a champ at handling tough jobs, it’s not exactly the smoothest operator for street driving. The ZF5, with its extra gear and synchronized shifts, offers a more refined driving experience, especially on the highway where that missing fifth gear in the NP435 means higher RPMs and a noisier ride.

Final Thoughts

The NP435 might lack the smoothness of modern gearboxes, but its strength and reliability are hard to beat. It’s a solid choice for anyone restoring a classic Ford or needing a transmission that can take a beating. If you’re setting up for street use, though, consider something like the ZF5 for a smoother, quieter ride.

Alright, that’s the lowdown on the NP435. If you found this breakdown helpful, hit that like button, subscribe for more no-nonsense content, and drop a comment if you’ve got any burning questions. And hey, if you want to support the channel and look cool doing it, check out my merch store and get your “Granny Gear” on. Thanks for tuning in, and I’ll catch you next time!


Bullnose Garage at YouTube

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.