Tag off-road upgrades

What challenges should I expect when swapping a 460 engine and F250 axles into my 1987 F150?


Bullnose Bill explains modifications for a 1987 F150 with F250 parts.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
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Bill says:

Hey there! That sounds like an exciting project you’ve got going on! Dropping a big-block 460 with a 5-speed transmission into your ’87 F-150 is sure to give you some serious power and performance.

Now, while it’s an awesome upgrade, there are a few things you should keep in mind:

  1. Engine Mounts: The 460 is a lot bigger than your stock engine, so you might need to get custom engine mounts or modify your existing ones to fit the new engine. Check the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel for some tips on fabbing mounts if you’re going that route.

  2. Transmission Fitment: The 5-speed transmission will likely require some modification to the crossmember and possibly the driveshaft. Make sure to measure the length and check the alignment to avoid any surprises.

  3. Axle Compatibility: Since you’re using the axles from an ’89 F-250, ensure that the axle widths accommodate your F-150 frame well. Be mindful of the gear ratios too, as you’ll want to match the 460’s power band for optimal performance.

  4. Wiring: The 460 will also have a different wiring setup, especially if you’re using a later model transmission. You might need to do some re-wiring or adapt the harness to fit everything nicely.

  5. Cooling: With all that extra power, consider your cooling system too. The stock radiator might struggle to keep a big-block engine cool, so you might want to look into an upgrade.

  6. Braking System: The added weight and power will necessitate a good braking system. Upgrading to a more robust brake setup can help ensure safety.

Before you dive in, it might be worth checking out some discussions on the Bullnose Ford subreddit for insights from folks who’ve done similar swaps. It’s a great community, and you might find some valuable tips!

Best of luck with your build! If you run into any specific issues or questions, feel free to ask. I’m here to help!


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User:

I appreciate your insights. I’m concerned about the issues you raised. The F250 was rolled, but its frame remains straight. Should I consider placing the F150 body onto the F250 chassis instead?

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re very welcome! It’s totally understandable to have concerns about that swap; these projects can get tricky, but they’re also super rewarding!

Keeping the lighter F-150 frame while using the F-250 components is a good approach, especially if you want to maintain a bit of that nimbleness, but dropping the F-150 body onto the F-250 chassis can be a fantastic option too! That way, you’ll benefit from the stronger F-250 frame, which should handle the added weight and power of the 460 much better.

Here are some things to consider if you decide to go that route:

  1. Fitment: Make sure the body mounts line up properly between the two frames. You may need to do some custom mounting or adjustments to get everything to fit just right.

  2. Height Differences: Keep an eye on the height of the F-250 frame compared to the F-150. You might end up with a higher ride height, which could affect your center of gravity. Adjusting the suspension could help to level things out.

  3. Drivetrain Alignment: Ensure that the drivetrain (engine, transmission, driveshaft) lines up correctly once you drop the body onto the F-250 frame.

  4. Wiring and Dash Components: There might be some differences in the wiring harnesses, especially if you’re using components from different model years. Just make sure to document everything for a smoother install.

  5. Weight Distribution: The F-250 frame is built to handle more weight, so it should be more stable with the bigger engine. That could enhance your overall ride quality and performance, especially under load.

  6. Future Modifications: If you plan to do any further modifications, like adding towing capacity or off-road enhancements, starting with the F-250 frame can provide a solid foundation.

You’re on the right track thinking about these options! Whatever you decide, it’s bound to be an impressive build. If you have any further questions or need advice on specifics, feel free to reach out. Happy wrenching!

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User:

My main focus is off-road capability. What should I consider for the suspension upgrade next?

Bill avatar
Bill:

That sounds like a blast! Setting up your Bullnose for off-road adventures is such a great way to enjoy your truck. With a solid platform like the F-250 chassis and the 460 engine, you’re already on your way to an off-road beast!

When it comes to suspension, here are some key points to keep in mind:

  1. Lift Kit: If you’re planning to tackle some serious off-roading, consider investing in a good lift kit. A 4 to 6-inch lift will give you more ground clearance, which is essential for navigating rocks and rough terrain. Plus, it’ll allow you to fit larger tires.

  2. Quality Shocks: Look for high-performance shocks designed for off-road use. They’ll help absorb the impact from bumps and rugged trails. Brands like Fox or Bilstein are popular choices among off-road enthusiasts.

  3. Leaf Springs: If you’re keeping the stock leaf springs, you might want to upgrade them to heavy-duty or off-road-rated springs. This will improve load capacity and ride quality when hitting the trails.

  4. Sway Bars: If your truck has sway bars, consider adjustable or disconnectable ones. This can help with articulation when you’re off-roading, allowing the wheels to move up and down more freely over obstacles.

  5. Tires: Don’t forget about the tires! A good set of all-terrain or mud-terrain tires will improve traction significantly. Make sure they fit within your wheel wells after lifting the truck.

  6. Alignment: After making any suspension changes, get a proper alignment. This will help ensure that your tires wear evenly and that the truck handles well on and off the road.

  7. Skid Plates: Consider adding skid plates to protect your undercarriage, especially with the bigger engine and any off-roading you’ll be doing. This will help you avoid damage from rocks and uneven surfaces.

If you’re looking for inspiration, check out some off-road builds on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel. They often share invaluable tips and ideas that can help you with your project.

Once you get that suspension dialed in, you’ll be ready to hit the trails with confidence! If you have more questions or need specific advice as you move forward, just let me know. I’m here to help!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


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Dana 44 Specs

Published on November 6, 2024

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Part of the Ford Truck Systems and Parts series.

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Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Imagine an axle tough enough for rugged off-road action but light enough for everyday driving. One that is so versatile and reliable you’ll find it in front and rear setups alike, from trucks to sports cars, in both solid and independent configurations. It’s been around for over 70 years and still ranks among the top choices in the 4×4 world. Meet the Dana 44.

The Dana 44 isn’t just another axle; it’s a proven performer found in everything from classic Broncos to Jeep CJs and more. If you’re into Bullnose Fords, any classic trucks, or off-roading in general, chances are this axle rings a bell. If not, stick around because we’re covering everything you need to know. Even if you know this axle, there’s a good chance you’ll pick up something new. I’ll also clear up the differences between the solid and independent suspension versions, as well as the front and rear axle setups. There is a lot to cover, so get comfortable.

Hello! To start, let’s clarify the Dana 44 family tree. The Dana 44 name actually covers a whole series of axles by the Dana Corporation, dating back to the 1940s. It includes a solid front axle with an offset diff for 4×4 work, a solid rear axle with a center diff, and an independent front suspension using Ford’s twin traction beam setup. This axle has been a top choice for off-roaders and classic truck owners for decades because it’s tough, adaptable, and this is important, easier to work on than most.

The beauty of the Dana 44 is its adaptability across all kinds of vehicles. You’ll find it in both front and rear setups in everything from Ford trucks to Jeep CJs, some military vehicles, and high-performance cars with an independent suspension setup. We’re about to take a closer look at both the solid axle and twin traction beam, or TTB, versions, along with how each was used, especially in Ford’s lineup. For those of you looking to source parts to find a solid donor axle, I’ll share some charts later in the video showing which models and years came with the Dana 44.

First up, we’ll check out the solid axle version. Let’s start with what makes a solid Dana 44 such a popular choice. For one, this axle was commonly paired with leaf springs in Ford’s heavier duty setups, and it often uses a high pinion design. Now, when I say high pinion, it means the pinion gear sits higher up in the axle housing than in the standard setup. This design offers a few advantages, especially for off-roading. First, it improves ground clearance, lifting the drive shaft angle to keep it safely clear of rocks, logs, and other tall obstacles. On top of that, this high pinion setup uses reverse cut gears, which provide extra strength in the forward direction. That makes it ideal for front axles where the torque is applied as you pull the vehicle forward. With a high pinion Dana 44, you get added strength, improved clearance, and a smoother drive shaft angle, especially helpful if your truck is lifted.

The solid D44 is designed to handle a wide range of vehicle setups. It functions well as either a front or rear axle, giving it flexibility across different builds. In classic Fords, it’s typically found up front, but in duty setups, you’ll also see it used in the rear. Now, as a rear axle, it’s not quite as beefy as a Dana 60 or a Ford 9-inch, but it’s a solid choice and comparable to the 8.8 when you’re looking to keep weight down and agility up without compromising strength.

Now, Ford isn’t the only one to use the Dana 44. Its versatility attracted other manufacturers like Chevrolet, Dodge, Jeep, International, and even some imports, making it one of the most widely used axles around. If you’re curious about the range of models that came factory-equipped with the 44, here’s a chart with all the details. This is a great reference if you’re thinking of sourcing parts or finding a donor vehicle.

So, let’s talk specs. The solid Dana 44 typically comes with a 30 spline axle, striking a good middle ground for strength and flexibility. Earlier versions sometimes had 19 or 27 splines, but the 30 spline is by far the most common for moderate duty work. If you’re planning to go further off-road, then there are aftermarket options with 33 or even 35 splines. Just remember, if you go up in the spline count, you’ll likely need a compatible differential carrier to handle those shafts. The D44 has an 8 and 1/2 inch ring gear. Now, it’s not as large as what you’ll find in the 9-inch or the Dana 60, but it’s plenty strong for moderate off-roading and light towing.

The Dana 44’s gear ratios are also flexible, ranging from 3.07 to 1 to 4.56 to 1. Lower ratios like 4.10 and 4.56 are great for torque-heavy applications, while higher ratios like 3.55 are more fuel efficient for highway driving. The Dana 44 uses a carrier break around the 3.73 mark, so if you’re planning to switch from a high to a low ratio, you’ll need to change out the carrier. The gross axle weight rating for the Dana 44 ranges from 3,500 to 3,800 pounds, depending on the setup. While it doesn’t match the brute strength of the Dana 60, the 44 is more than capable for medium duty tasks in a 4×4 setup.

The solid Dana 44 axle typically measures about 65 to 68 inches wide from flange to flange, with axle tubes between 2.75 and 3 inches in diameter. This width provides a good balance, keeping the front end light for off-road use without compromising durability. The solid Dana 44 axle itself weighs in around 250 to 300 pounds, making it significantly lighter than the Dana 60. Most Boss AER trucks came equipped with ball joint knuckles on the Dana 44. Ball joints are easy to maintain and offer more precise steering, making them a solid choice for most setups. Some older versions feature kingpin knuckles for added durability, which off-roaders still appreciate.

Further strengths last here a quick note on fluid. The Dana 44 holds around 2 to 3 quarts of gear oil. Maintaining the oil level is crucial, especially for heavy off-roading, as it prevents the gears and bearings from overheating and wearing prematurely. If you’re looking to beef up your solid Dana 44, a whole range of upgrades can take it from a decent axle to a serious off-road contender. Stock shafts work okay for light to moderate off-roading, but if you’re planning to push further, chromoly shafts are a great upgrade. You can also go for a thicker spline count like 33 or even 35 splines if you’re aiming for that maximum strength. But like I said, keep in mind that a higher spline count often requires a compatible carrier, so plan accordingly.

If you’re going to head that route, a locker upgrade makes a big difference in off-road traction. Several types of lockers are available, but selectable lockers like those from ARB are popular because you can engage them only when needed. Keep in mind that adding a locker increases stress on the axle shafts and U-joint, so upgrading your shafts is a smart move here. If you’ve got manual locking hubs, upgrading to a heavy-duty set like Warn hubs makes for a worthwhile investment. Manual hubs are typically stronger than automatic ones, which matters if you’re running larger tires or adding extra load to the front end.

If you’re planning to take your truck over rougher trails, consider adding a truss or skid plate. A truss runs along the top of the axle, adding reinforcement to keep it from flexing under heavy use, and skid plates or reinforced diff covers give you a little bit of extra protection against rocks or trail debris.

And finally, let’s talk about ball joints and knuckles. Most Bullnose trucks with the Dana 44 come with ball joints, which work just fine for most setups. But if you’re planning on larger tires or adding weight to the front end, like a winch bumper, upgrading to a heavy-duty ball joint or even reinforced knuckle is worth considering. This upgrade adds durability and keeps your steering nice and precise.

So let’s switch gears to the twin traction beam, or TTB, Dana 44. It’s a unique setup introduced back in 1980. This version is entirely different from the solid axle, featuring an independent front suspension design rather than one continuous housing. TTB has two beams that pivot independently from a central point. This design aimed to give trucks a smoother, more car-like ride on pavement without sacrificing off-road capability. Ford primarily used the TTB Dana 44 in the F-150 and Bronco models. If you’re wondering which models came with the D44 TTB axle, here’s a quick reference chart. This should be especially useful if you’re seeking TTB-specific parts or looking for a donor vehicle.

Ford designed this axle for folks who wanted a truck that can handle trails while still running comfortably on the highway. While it’s not as rugged as the solid axle version, it offers a strong balance between off-road capability and on-road comfort, making it popular in lighter duty trucks. However, for serious off-roading, the TTB setup has its limitations. Its independent beams and pivot points wear faster under heavy use, and lifting the TTB can create challenging geometry issues.

The TTB Dana 44 usually comes with coil springs instead of leaf springs, which helps create that smoother ride. With two pivot points, one at each beam, it requires regular maintenance, especially for frequent off-road use. These beams are typically made from stamped steel, which is lighter but less durable than a solid axle under extreme off-road conditions. Like its solid axle brother, the TTB Dana 44 uses 30 spline shafts. However, since it’s not a single housing, each side includes a half shaft with U-joints that allow each beam to flex independently.

The TTB Dana 44 generally offers similar gear ratios to the solid axle, ranging from 3.07 to 1 to 4.56 to 1, so you can choose based on whether you need torque for off-road or a higher ratio for on-road fuel efficiency. Lifting a TTB axle is trickier, as the geometry can get thrown off even by modest lifts. This is one reason why some hardcore off-roaders eventually swap the TTB for a solid axle. The TTB’s main strength is ride comfort; its lighter front end provides a smoother ride on pavement, and a big advantage if your truck spends a lot of time on the road.

The TTB Dana 44 can be upgraded as well, although it has a unique set of options because of its independent design. First up, the heavy-duty U-joints and half shafts. Because the TTB relies on half shafts and U-joints for independent movement, a common upgrade here is stronger U-joints and heavy-duty half shafts. Stock parts work well under moderate use, but if you’re heading off-road with larger tires or more power, upgrading these components can prevent early wear or breakage.

Another key upgrade is bushings and pivot brackets. The TTB has a lot of moving parts, and one area that sees a lot of wear is the pivot points. Swapping in polyurethane bushings instead of the stock rubber ones and adding reinforced pivot brackets can make a big difference in stability. This helps reduce play and keeps everything lined up nicely.

Another useful upgrade for TTB setups is adding a truss. Yep, you can add a truss to the TTB beams too. Say that five times fast! TTB beams truss kits strengthen the beams to prevent flexing under load, especially useful if you’re running larger tires or taking the truck off-road regularly. A lot of TTB owners also go for extended radius arms. Stock length arms can sometimes cause binding when the suspension cycles over bumps, but extended arms let the suspension move more freely. They improve the suspension geometry if you’re lifting the truck, helping with handling and stability on rough terrain.

And speaking of lifts, lifting a TTB requires drop brackets to keep the pivot angles correct. TTB lift kits often include these drop brackets along with coil spring spacers or new coil springs altogether to keep the height right. Drop brackets are crucial for maintaining proper geometry; without them, lifting a TTB can cause uneven joint wear and affect handling.

Last but not least, just like with a solid axle, adding a locker can be a great upgrade if you’re planning to take the TTB off-road. Just remember, the TTB’s design is a little more complicated than a solid axle, so lockers can add some extra strain to the system.

And that’s the Dana 44 family in a nutshell. If you’re looking at the solid axle for off-road durability or the TTB for a smooth ride, the Dana 44 has you covered either way. With the right upgrades, regular maintenance, and a bit of know-how, these axles are ready for just about anything, whether it’s the trail, highway, or somewhere in between.

So here’s a little fun fact and something you might not expect right here at the end of the video: The Dana 44 wasn’t just for trucks. Dana also created an independent rear suspension version specifically for sports cars. The IRS D44 maintained the axle strength while being compact enough for performance-focused cars. This version appeared in some legendary rides, including the Chevy Corvette C3 from 1980 to 1982 and the C4 manuals from ’85 to ’96, the Dodge Viper, and even classic Jaguars like the E-Type and XJ. It’s a testament to the versatility of the Dana 44 platform.

There you go, guys. That’s everything that I know, or pretend to know, about the Dana 44 series of axles by the Dana Corporation. Now, this can be a very confusing topic, especially for somebody who’s new to axles or new to working on vehicles, because all these different vehicles are called Dana 44. And unless you know what you’re looking for, it can be hard to find the right information. So just remember, you’ve got a Dana 44 front axle that’s solid, a Dana 44 front axle that’s independent, and a Dana 44 rear axle, and they’re all different. On top of that, they came in all different kinds of vehicles: Fords and Dodges and Chevys, and we went over it, right? There’s a lot of different vehicles you can find them in.

So, hopefully this video gave you some good background information. It was just a real quick overview, but hopefully you learned something. If you did, guys, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that; it helps me out a lot. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop me a comment and let me know. Guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time.

She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Tinker away, getting things to shine. Oh no, Gage, she’s sent divine. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.

Introduction

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage. Today, we’re diving into a legendary piece of engineering that’s been holding up the off-road community for over 70 years—the Dana 44 axle. If you’ve ever wondered why this axle has become a staple in everything from classic trucks to sports cars, stick around. We’re breaking down the solid vs. Twin Traction Beam (TTB) setups, specs, and the best upgrades to make your rig trail-ready.

The Dana 44 Family Tree

First off, let’s clear up a common misconception: the Dana 44 isn’t a one-size-fits-all axle. It’s an entire series crafted by the Dana Corporation since the 1940s. Whether you’re talking about a solid front axle with an offset differential for 4×4 work or an independent front suspension using Ford’s TTB setup, you’re still talking Dana 44. Its adaptability has made it a go-to choice for rugged off-roaders and classic truck aficionados alike.

Solid vs. TTB: What’s the Difference?

Solid Axle

The solid Dana 44 is a popular choice for a reason. It’s often paired with leaf springs and features a high-pinion design. “High pinion” means the pinion gear sits higher in the axle housing, providing better ground clearance and a favorable drive shaft angle. This setup is particularly ideal for front axles, where you need that extra strength and clearance when pulling your vehicle forward.

Twin Traction Beam (TTB)

Ford introduced the TTB Dana 44 in 1980 as an independent front suspension option. It features two beams pivoting from a central point, designed to offer a smoother ride on pavement without sacrificing off-road capability. While not as rugged as its solid counterpart, it’s ideal for those looking for a balance between off-road capability and on-road comfort.

Specs and Configurations

The Dana 44 isn’t just flexible in its design; it’s also versatile in specs. Most solid Dana 44s come with a 30-spline axle, which is a good middle ground for strength. They can range in gear ratios from 3.07:1 to 4.56:1, allowing you to tailor your setup for torque-heavy off-roading or fuel-efficient highway driving.

Solid Axle Specs

  • Spline Count: Mostly 30, but options for 33 or 35 splines exist.
  • Ring Gear Size: 8.5 inches.
  • Width: Typically 65 to 68 inches flange to flange.
  • Weight: Around 250 to 300 pounds.

TTB Axle Specs

The TTB setup usually comes with coil springs, requiring regular maintenance due to its independent nature. It shares similar gear ratios with the solid axle but is generally lighter, making it more suited for on-road comfort.

Best Upgrades for Off-Road Performance

Thinking about beefing up your Dana 44? Here are some upgrades that can transform it from a decent axle into a serious off-road contender.

Solid Dana 44 Upgrades

  • Chromoly Shafts: Great for those planning more extreme off-roading.
  • Lockers: ARB selectable lockers are a popular choice.
  • Manual Locking Hubs: Opt for heavy-duty sets like Warn.
  • Truss or Skid Plates: Reinforce the axle to prevent flexing.

TTB Dana 44 Upgrades

  • Heavy-Duty U-Joints and Half Shafts: Essential for handling larger tires.
  • Polyurethane Bushings: Replace stock rubber to improve stability.
  • Truss Kits: Strengthen the beams to prevent flexing.
  • Extended Radius Arms: Improve suspension geometry.

Conclusion

Whether you’re eyeing the solid axle for its off-road durability or the TTB for a smoother ride, the Dana 44 has something for everyone. With the right upgrades and a bit of know-how, these axles can tackle just about anything you throw at them, from the trail to the highway.

If this post shed some light on the Dana 44 mysteries, give it a like or comment below. I appreciate the support, and as always, feel free to drop your questions or concerns in the comments. Until next time, keep wrenching and stay trail-ready!


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