Some Ford V8s get all the glory: 351 Windsor, the Boss 302, the almighty 460. But what if I told you that the Windsor family, yes, including the legendary Boss 302 and 351, wouldn’t exist at all if it weren’t for one scrappy little small block that paved the way?

Howdy folks, Ed here, and that’s right, today we’re talking about the classic Ford 289 Windsor V8. Nothing says timeless Ford muscle like the rumble of a 289 tucked into a 60s Pony car. But this compact small block didn’t just power the first Mustangs; it set the stage for an entire era of Ford V8 performance. It proved that big performance doesn’t always need big cubes, and it laid the groundwork for every iconic Ford small block that followed, even powered legends like the Shelby GT350 and AC Cobra. If you’re aiming for mid-60s authenticity, the 289 is pure gold.

Now, I know what some of you are thinking: ‘Ed, the 289 never found its way into a Bullnose truck, so why are you even talking about it on your channel?’ And that’s a fair point. But here’s the twist: the 289 is a direct ancestor of the 302 and 351 Windsor, both of which did call the Bullnose F-Series and Broncos home, and it set the foundation for Ford’s entire small block legacy. Plus, if you’re hunting for a fun, lightweight, high-revving swap for an F100 or F-150 project to beef up, the 289 might just be the perfect vintage Ford guy choice. Sure, it’s not Bullnose stock, but its roots run deep in Ford’s V8 family tree, and that’s worth talking about.

Hello, the Ford 289, often called the 4.7 liter, rolled onto the scene in the 1963 Fairlane as part of Ford’s new small block family. The 289 wasn’t Ford’s first small block V8, but it was the first one that really mattered. Back in ’62, Ford introduced the 221, tiny, low on power, and barely enough to get a Fairlane moving. Then came the 260, which gained some respect for being the first V8 in the Mustang and early Shelby Cobras, but neither of those really set the world on fire. Then came the 289, the first small block to get Ford’s now legendary 4-inch bore. That change gave it room to breathe, rev, and perform, turning it into the foundation for Ford’s small block dominance for the next three decades.

By the time the Mustang launched in mid-1964, the 289 was positioned to power Ford’s soon-to-be iconic Pony car, catapulting it to fame almost overnight. Back then, folks were used to the idea that more displacement automatically meant more power. The 289 helped to flip that script by proving that a smaller, higher-revving V8 could compete with and even sometimes outperform bigger, heavier engines from Ford and its rivals. At the time, larger V8s like the Chevy 327, Pontiac 326, even Ford’s own 352 and 390 big blocks were the go-to options for muscle cars and performance builds. But the 289’s lighter weight and high-revving nature allowed it to hold its own against these bigger engines. It wasn’t just a great engine on its own; it laid the groundwork for the 302 and the 351 Windsor, proving that Ford’s small block design was viable for decades.

Without the success of the 289, we may have never seen legendary engines like the Boss 302 or high-performance 351 Windsor variants. Now, Ford did make another so-called small block later, the 255, but that one was a smog-choked, low-power economy engine from the 80s that doesn’t even really belong in the same conversation. As a matter of fact, it’s one of Ford’s forgotten engines, and I covered that whole mess in another video if you want to see how things got before Ford got their act together.

If there’s one car that cemented the 289’s legend, it is the original Ford Mustang. Sure, the earliest Mustang variants also offered the 260, but it didn’t take long for the 289 to steal the spotlight. By 1965, the Mustang 289 was on its way to becoming a household name, especially with options like the high-performance 289, often called the hypo or K code, rated around 271 horsepower from the factory, but criminally underrated if you ask a lot of folks. This version featured solid lifters, a hotter cam, and beefier internals that allowed it to rev higher and deliver more punch.

The 289 did more than just move the Mustang off dealer lots; it turned it into an American phenomenon. Carol Shelby took the 289, worked his magic, and birthed the Shelby GT350, which took the racing world by storm. But here’s where things get a little interesting: while Shelby’s 289-powered Ponies were dominating, many believe that those 289s weren’t exactly off-the-shelf Ford engines. The race-prepped 289 in Cobras and GT350s were rumored to have significantly more power than advertised, with some estimates putting them well over 350 horsepower, far beyond the 271 horsepower rating of the factory HPO 289. Some even suggest that certain Shelby race engines were secretly bored or stroked beyond 289 cubic inches, meaning they weren’t really 289s at all. Now, whether that’s true or not, what we do know is that Shelby’s modifications made the 289 a true giant killer. Once people saw a 289-powered Mustang outpacing bigger, heavier cars, occasionally even including Mopar’s 426 Hemi on the smaller, curvier tracks, they realized displacement wasn’t everything.

That’s why for many Mustang fans, the 289 remains the purest expression of that first-gen Pony car excitement: high-revving, light on its feet, and brimming with potential. And speaking of the GT350, you might be wondering, what does the 350 actually stand for? I mean, surely it means something, right? More displacement? It’s that higher horsepower number? Something else kind of cool? No, according to legend, when Shelby was trying to name the car, someone asked him what to call it. He supposedly looked around, noticed that his shop is about 350 feet from another building, and said, ‘Call it the GT350. It’s good enough.’ And just like that, the name was born.

Though the Mustang gets the lion’s share of the credit, the 289 found its way into plenty of other Fords and even a few Mercurys. I’ve got a chart here that goes into far more detail if you want to nerd about this stuff. During the mid to late 1960s, the 289 was available in the Falcon, the Fairlane, the Comet, the Cougar, and even some full-size sedans like certain LTD variants or station wagons. In each of these vehicles, the 289 proved to be a flexible platform: just enough torque to make day-to-day driving a breeze, but happy enough to keep gearheads smiling on track days. Ford used it in so many platforms because it hit the sweet spot: decent power, manageable size, and reliability for folks who wanted a family car on the weekdays and a surprise hero at the stoplight on weekends. The 289 was just about perfect.

Even now, when you come across a vintage Falcon or Cougar, a 289 under the hood is a big plus, both for nostalgia and for performance. Like any engine produced over several years, the 289 went through a few noteworthy evolutions. Early 289s used a five-bolt bell housing pattern from 1963 through part of 1965, and then Ford switched to a sturdier six-bolt pattern for the remainder of its production life. This little detail is especially important if you’re hunting for a period-correct 289 V8 restoration project. Knowing which bell housing pattern your car needs can spare you a ton of headaches. Compression ratios have also changed over time, ranging from about 9.0 to 1 up to 10.0 to 1 or higher in the HPO variant. Emission standards started nibbling away at compression in the later 60s, just like all the engines of that era. Though the 289 never got hammered quite as hard as some of Ford’s bigger engines did in the 70s.

Most 289s used a cast iron block and heads with a bore of 4 inches and a stroke of 2.87 inches, giving that 289 tube total. Thanks to that relatively short stroke, the 289 was a rev-loving engine that could wind out higher than many of its larger displacement counterparts. The firing order is the classic Ford small block sequence: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, and it typically holds around 5 quarts of oil, though it’s wise to double-check the pan size if you’re building one up for performance. In terms of dimensions, the 289 measured roughly 29 inches long, 24 inches wide, and 27 inches high, making it a compact yet powerful V8 that fit easily into a variety of Ford platforms. Weight-wise, the 289 tipped the scales at around 460 lbs with iron heads. It’s relatively lightweight compared to Ford’s big block engines, which would often come in well over 600 lbs.

Horsepower and torque varied across different 289 variants. The standard two-barrel models made around 195 horsepower and 258 pound-feet of torque, while the four-barrel versions bumped that up to 225 horsepower and 305 lb-ft. The high-performance K code 289 came in at a factory-rated 271 and 312 lb-ft of torque, though real-world numbers often suggested it was making closer to 300 horsepower or more, especially in Shelby applications. Although the standard 289 crank and rods were cast, they were robust enough for almost all street builds. If you’re aiming to push the power envelope, upgrades like forged pistons, rods, or even a stroker kit can transform the 289 into an absolute screamer.

The 289 can be stroked to 331 cubic inches, making it a favorite for builders who want extra displacement while keeping the high-revving characteristics. Swapping to aluminum heads can also shave weight and unlock better flow, pushing the power output well beyond factory numbers. One thing to note is that the 289 always used a two-piece rear main seal, which was standard for small block Fords of that era. While pretty durable, these seals are prone to leaks over time, which is something to watch out for when rebuilding one. Also, because of the era in which it was built, the 289 never came with roller lifters. All factory 289s used flat tappet camshafts, unlike the later 5.0 or 302 roller blocks that Ford introduced in the 1980s. That means if you’re planning to run a modern high-lift cam, you’ll need to retrofit roller lifters or an aftermarket roller block to handle the added stress.

When people talk about Ford small blocks, the 302 and 351 Windsor often dominate the conversation. A lot of folks ask, ‘Why not just swap in a 302 or 331 Windsor if I want more displacement?’ And if you’re after raw power, by all means, bigger is typically better. But remember, those engines exist largely because the 289 laid the groundwork. Starting in 1968, Ford began phasing in the 302, which shares the same 4-inch bore but stretches the stroke to 3 inches for a bit more displacement. That small difference gave the 302 some extra torque, but many purists argue that the 289’s shorter stroke makes it more rev-happy and ideal for period-correct lightweight builds that thrive on higher RPMs.

Then, of course, there’s the 351 Windsor, which took the basic small block architecture and bulked it up. Great for folks who want more displacement in the same general block design. But if you’re restoring a ’65 Mustang or a mid-60s Falcon, dropping a 351 means you’re straying a bit from authentic. And you can’t talk about the 289 without mentioning the holy grail of match numbers in the restoration world. If your Mustang or Falcon left the factory with a 289, swapping a 302 or 331 might not feel right if you’re trying to preserve that historical value. Many collectors see the 289 as a stamp of authenticity, especially if it’s the high-performance variant. Even standard 289-powered Mustangs fetch strong prices because the 289 is so integral to what the Mustang stood for in the 60s.

Now, that being said, if you do stumble across a car that’s missing its original engine, popping in a clean, rebuilt 289 from the correct era is still a fantastic choice. It’ll keep the spirit of the build intact, and you won’t have to worry about engine bay fitment or hooking up transmissions and drivetrains that might need heavy modification. It plays nicely with a different engine. Swapping a 289 into an older project that originally had a straight six or even an earlier Ford small block is also straightforward. Mounts, transmissions, and exhaust paths are often very similar. And while the 289 might not post 460-level torque numbers, it’s a nimble, rev-happy engine that gives you an entirely different driving experience.

There’s a reason that Shelby used the 289 in the original GT350 and Cobra: less weight, balanced handling, and plenty of power to get you in trouble if you’re not careful. And if you want even more of that power, you’re in luck because, like the other Ford small blocks, the 289 has massive aftermarket support. You want to squeeze more power out of it? Sure, you start with the heads. The factory cast iron heads flow reasonably well for their era, but an upgrade to modern aluminum heads from companies like Edelbrock, AFR, or Trick Flow can unlock a serious performance bump. If you’re aiming for period-correct restoration, you want to stick with the factory cast iron heads, but you can do some mild porting and polishing, and that can help improve your flow without straying too far from originality.

Swapping the stock cam for something with a bit more lift and duration is another surefire way to wake up a 289. The factory flat tappet cam can be replaced with a performance flat tappet grind if you want to stay true to the original design. But if you’re not worried about authenticity, a retrofit roller cam will reduce friction, improve efficiency, and allow for more aggressive tuning. As in every case like this, just be mindful of your valve springs, push rods, and rocker arms to keep everything in harmony.

If more displacement is what you’re after, stroker kits can push the 289 well past its factory limits. The most common stroker setup increases displacement to 331 cubic inches, which is achieved by swapping in a 3.25-inch stroke crankshaft, which is compared to the stock 2.87-inch stroke, along with custom pistons and rods. A 347 stroker kit is another option, but if you’re going that deep, most folks prefer to start with a 302 instead. They have the same deck height but more internal wall thickness. They’re also easier to come by, and the later blocks have roller cam-ready lifter valleys. So if you’re not trying to stay period-correct and you want those extra cubes, probably starting with a bigger platform to begin with is a better choice. But if you want to stick with a 289, a mild overbore of 30 over gets you 292 cubic inches. Anything beyond 40 or 60 over is risky, as the 289’s cylinder walls are thinner than later 302 blocks.

Most 289s come from the factory with carburetors, and a properly tuned four-barrel Holley, Edelbrock, or Autolite 4100 can still deliver great performance. But if you’re looking for modern drivability, EFI conversion kits are hard to beat, like FiTech or Edelbrock Pro-Flo. They make the swap simple. These systems offer better cold starts, fuel efficiency, and throttle response, and they all kind of keep that classic small block look. Converting to electronic ignition, like a Pertronix igniter or MSD ready-to-run distributor, eliminates the headaches of points ignitions and provides a hotter, more reliable spark. If you want smoother acceleration and better combustion at high RPM, that is a must-do.

And for exhaust, the factory cast manifolds are fine for restorations, but long tube headers offer the best gains if originality isn’t really your concern. A properly tuned dual exhaust with an X-pipe or H-pipe can make a noticeable difference in both power and sound. So, as Carol Shelby was well aware, with the right upgrades, a warmed-up 289 can easily push past 350 horsepower, and you’d be surprised how many folks with bigger engines start sweating a little bit when a high-revving 289 lines up next to them.

Strip most period 289s are paired with three-speed or four-speed manual transmissions like the top loader, which is legendary in its own right. Automatics such as the C4 were also popular in the day. If you’re building a cruiser or daily driver, a C4 behind a mount 289 can be a wonderful setup: simple, robust, and easier on your left leg on a stick shift in traffic. And if you’re after a more modern driving experience, swapping in a five-speed manual like a T5 or even a modern overdrive automatic can give you lower cruising RPMs and better fuel economy without sacrificing the engine’s character.

Talking about transmissions, keep in mind if your 289 dates back to the five-bolt bell housing days, you’re going to have to have an adapter or a different bell housing altogether to mate it to certain transmissions. This isn’t a big hurdle for most builders, just something to note before you pull the trigger on a bunch of parts.

Why does the 289 still hold a special place in Ford enthusiasts’ hearts? Because it changed the game. It gave rise to the Mustang, helped Ford dominate racing in the mid-60s, and established a blueprint for small block performance that would evolve into the 302, 351 Windsor, and beyond. It proved you didn’t need 400-plus cubic inches to shake up the muscle car world, and it wasn’t just about raw horsepower; it was about balance, handling, and that unmistakable high-rev scream. Even with all the technology we have today, there is a timeless joy in building or driving a 289-powered car. The sound, the feel, and the history all come together to remind you that sometimes the original formula just works.

In a world full of LS swaps and modern Coyotes, the 289 stands its ground as a piece of American automotive DNA that still turns heads. From the earliest hypo versions to the everyday runners that powered families across the country, the 289 delivered a perfect blend of efficiency, power, and old-school thrill. And if you’re building a ’60s Ford, be it a Mustang, Falcon, or anything in between, there’s no question that the 289 is a rock-solid choice for a period-correct, grin-inducing driving experience. If you want an engine that’s as iconic as the cars that it came in, that’s easy to work on, and that still has parts galore floating around out there, it’s hard to beat the 289.

So there it is, that’s the story of how one seemingly modest small block paved the way for the big dogs, proving size isn’t everything and leaving its mark on automotive history in the process. Hey, you got a vintage Ford in your garage? Chances are it owes a debt of gratitude to this little V8 that could. And that’s why Ed from Bullnose Garage is talking about it today. That’s also why, even decades later, the 289 is still out there making waves and sometimes even leaving bigger engine competitors scratching their heads at the next stoplight.

And there you go, that’s everything that I know or pretend to know about the Ford 289. As always, if you learned something new today or found this video interesting, drop me a like or subscribe. That really does help me out. And you know I’ve got a lot of these Ford engine videos planned, so make sure you stick around to see what’s coming up next. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. If you think I got something wrong, let me know that too. And as always, guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time.

But she’s doing fine, tinkering away, things to shine, garage. She’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

was about damn time I got started on this thing right. Today I’m finally getting hands on with the classic piece of Ford V8 history, the 351 Windsor. If you’ve been following this channel for a while, you might recall that, uh, years ago I did a deep dive in 351, uh, Windsor engine. Lots of diagrams, historical tidbits, bunch of stats, uh, all that good stuff. But this time I’ve got the real deal sitting right here in front of me, ready for a tear down. Even better, I’m going to take this mild-mannered Windsor and turn it into a 408 stroker that’ll make some serious power. Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. This is going to be the start of a full series where I take a basic 351 stock Windsor, strip it down to the bare bones, check every single component, and then rebuild it from the ground up. By the end, I’ll have a stroker motor that’s ready to rock in just about any Ford project you can dream up. Mine is going to go in my, uh, ’85 F-150. From turning this block down and inspecting the crank journals to picking the right parts for the rotating assembly and finally firing it up, I’m going to cover all the steps, share all the notes, and almost certainly screw up a few things ’cause I’m no pro and that’s bound to happen. Hello! Now before I start ripping into steel and iron, I want to talk about what makes the 351 Windsor so special. Ford introduced this engine in 1969 and it quickly found a home in everything from Mustangs to trucks. The chassis DNA with a 289 and 302 small blocks, but there are a few key differences. The 351 Windsor is built on a taller deck, which translates into more stroke potential. Basically, the block is a bit beefier all around. It’s got bigger main journals, a stronger bottom end, and enough structural integrity to handle the, uh, the kind of power that I’m aiming for in a stroker build. That’s one of the big reasons enthusiasts love turning the Windsor into a 408 or even beyond. It can handle the extra displacement without acting like, uh, it’s about to explode every time you lay into the gas pedal. So let me get specific on some numbers. The original 351 Windsor typically sports a 4-inch bore and a 3.5-inch stroke. Deck height is in the 9.48 to 9.53-inch range depending on the year, which is noticeably taller than the 8.2 inches you’d see in a 289 or 302. Compression ratios vary, uh, they were all over the map depending on the year and emissions. Early on, you might have seen ratios around 10.7 to 1, while later engines dipped into the 8.0 to 9.0 to 1 range, like this one here. It’s a ’95. As for weight, fully dressed with iron heads and intake, you’re looking at about 500 to 520 lbs, so it’s not exactly a featherweight, uh, but you know, if you’re looking for that, get yourself a 289 if weight savings is your ballpark. Now, if you ever find yourself staring at a Ford small block and wondering whether you got a 351 Windsor, a 302, or a 289, here’s how to tell without playing the guessing game. So first off, casting numbers can give you a clue. They’re over here, uh, underneath on the driver’s side, uh, but they don’t spill it out for you. Take the F4TE 615A block that I have here for example. That C number doesn’t straight up scream 351 Windsor, but it does give us some breadcrumbs. The 6015 part, that’s just Ford’s generic block identifier. It doesn’t tell us the displacement, uh, but the F4TE means that it’s a 1994 truck block. Now that means it’s either a 302 or 351 W. So how do we know for sure? Well, here’s where the physical differences between those two different blocks come in. One of the easiest ways to spot a 351 over a 302 is the deck height. Uh, the 351 is noticeably taller, measuring 9.53 inches compared to the 302’s 8.26. It’s a solid 1.3-inch difference, which spreads the heads further apart and it makes the engine physically larger. Now you can’t, uh, fiddle with it to get it right where 9 and a half is, but yeah, you can see it’s pretty close right there. Uh, now if you turn to the bottom end, uh, Ford gave the 351 Windsor a much beefier foundation compared to the 302. I don’t have this apart so I can’t show you, uh, but one of the quickest tells is the main cap bolts. They’re 1/2-inch bolts on 351 versus the smaller 7/16-inch bolts on a 302. Uh, the extra strength is one of the reasons that the 351 Windsor can handle stroker builds and, uh, big power without turning into a, yeah, pile of metal shavings. I mean, not that the 302 can do that, but 351 is more robust. Uh, speaking of beefy internals, the crankshaft main journal is another great big difference. The 351 Windsor uses a hefty 3-inch main journal compared to the 302’s 2.5 inches. You know, so there you go versus there you go, right? Uh, if you got the crank out, a quick measurement will tell you exactly what you’re working with. One more subtle clue is the oil filter boss, uh, location on 351 Windsor. The oil filter mount sits slightly higher on the block than it does on the 302. Now this is not super easy to spot, especially when the engine is inside of a bay, uh, unless you got them both side by side sitting out. But if you want to look for that, it’s just another piece of the puzzle. Uh, so you know, the next time you’re thinking through a swap met or picking through a junkyard, uh, keep those checks in mind. Uh, now if you’re looking at a small block Ford, uh, installed in an engine bay from the front and trying to decide if it’s a 351 Windsor or just another 302, my go-to way, what I think is the easiest, uh, and it’s a quick way to tell at a glance is to check the area around the distributor mount. Um, I’ll get you a closeup here in a second, but, uh, on a 289 or 302, the pad the distributor mounts, uh, is almost flush with the block. On a 351, there’s almost an extra inch of, uh, material here. Uh, it’s much visibly taller. It’s due to the deck height and the taller deck is what gives the 351 Windsor its extra stroke and displacement. So it’s the quick visual indicator, this deck height here around the distributor, uh, to tell if you’re looking at, uh, a 351 or a 302 if the engine is sitting inside of a, of an engine bay, especially if it’s fully dressed. So, uh, while I got the engine still together, although it won’t be for long, there’s a few other things that, uh, I want to point out here before I start tearing this thing down completely. First off, we’ll take a look at the oil pan. Now I’ll be sure to show you the pickup tube and discuss how it affects oil delivery once I’ve got all this stuff here off. Still so much grime. So another thing I want to show you real quick while the engine’s still together is that I still have the, uh, stock exhaust manifolds on. Now they’re fine for a stock build for the most part, but, uh, you know, they’re definitely not going to be okay for a 408 stroker. Now I’ve left these on here because I didn’t want critters and stuff getting in the open holes while I was sitting outside, but now that it’s in my garage, I can, uh, take those off. I’m not doing that right now, but I am going to show you what I’m replacing them with to give you an idea of the difference. So to do that, let me turn this thing back around. Now this thing is definitely top-heavy, so, uh, and it is a beast, so I got to have a little bit of a cheater bar here to, uh, see if I can get this thing turned around. Here we go. H! All right, so here you can see the, uh, stock exhaust header. Let me, uh, try you down a little bit so you can get a better, a little bit clearer shot. And here is the new one that’s going to go on. These are long tube headers. I got them, uh, actually I got them for free from, uh, DynoX, so they provided those for me. I’ve got a video on these, um, where I’ll show you what these are all about. But yeah, man, that’s going to, that’s going to look pretty sweet and sound pretty sweet. Yeah, we can look forward to getting those on. And lastly, while we’re here and this thing is still together, you can take a look at the stock intake manifold up here. Uh, you know what? Actually, let me get, uh, this plate off the top here and I’ll show you what I’m talking about. All right, now that I’ve got the, uh, plate off the top, we could talk about this, uh, stock intake manifold. Now there’s a couple things going on here, um, that need to be addressed as far as my build is concerned. First, you know, these documents are okay for low-end grunt, um, and stock applications, but for a 408 stroker build, uh, they just don’t flow enough air. So I’ll be definitely looking at some aftermarket intakes for this. And, uh, also because this one is a fuel injected intake, not a carbureted intake, um, I will be swapping this to a carbureted engine. Uh, and you guys may go, oh my God, carbureted engine, why would you ever do that? Fuel injection is so much better and more reliable and all this other kind of stuff that people end up doing. Uh, so a couple things. One, uh, I’ve never messed with carburetors before, and so I don’t have that, that little bit of jadedness that some of the carburetor guys have. Uh, and I need to get that. I really need to, to figure out, I need to internalize why carburetors are so horrible, right? So I want to build my engine with a carburetor. I also really like the old school feel of that, and I like the old school look. So if I do get tired of the carburetor, uh, even though I’ve got a carbureted intake, I’ll just get myself like a sniper EFI or something like that that looks like a carburetor, uh, still gives you that old school look, but you, it will work with the intake that I’ve got, but still gives me the, uh, the modern sort of drivability and reliability of an EFI setup. So that’s my plan there. So once I got everything taken apart, disassembled, I’m going to dedicate an entire episode to walking through each of these parts so I can show you exactly what it does and why it’s important. I’ll lay out the crank, rods, pistons, heads, and anything else that I’ve yanked off this block right here, uh, and I’ll put them on a bench and I’ll give you a crash course on small block Ford anatomy. Honestly, it’s going to help me brush up on my own knowledge too because, you know, there’s nothing like pointing at each component and telling you exactly what it does and figuring out how it all comes together to, uh, keep your mind on track. That’ll be good for me before I, uh, build the new engine too, so we’re going to do that. Uh, I mean, Lord knows I need as much help as I can get. If you’re wondering why I picked a 351 Windsor for a project like this, one, you’re obviously not a subscriber to the channel, and two, let me sum it up. Uh, there’s a ton of them out there, it’s durable, and the aftermarket part support is insane. You know, there’s a lot of options for intakes, exhausts, uh, man, all kinds of different stroker kits and just pretty much whatever you’re looking for. So as I’m going along, I’m also going to chat about the history of the Windsor, uh, ’cause it’s really interesting and that’s part of the fun for me. I really like digging into that stuff. So now here’s the part that I’m going to get yelled at for in the next episode. I’m going to start tearing this thing down. Oh my God, Ed, all you ever do is flap your gums! I know, right? I’ve been waiting on this for four years, but I want to do it right and take it slow, so I’m taking it one episode at a time. Next time, I promise I talk to you about this engine, I will be taking it apart. I’m going to show you exactly how I pull the heads, yank the cam, and see if there’s any hidden damage lurking down into this block, right? I’m going to measure the bores to see how much I need to overbore for my stroker pistons. Now hopefully I’ll get lucky and this thing is basically still stock. I think it is, and if it is, then I should probably only have to go 30 over, but you never know. Maybe I won’t, and that’s part of the adventure. So once I know the status, I’ll pick out a nice stroker kit that matches my goal, something that’ll give me a nice bump in torque and horsepower, get me up to 408, and, uh, you know, something that won’t turn this engine into a ticking time bomb. Excuse me, uh, so that’s the plan and I can’t wait to get my hands dirty. If you love classic small block Fords or just enjoy watching some dude in his garage try not to drop a cylinder.

Head on his foot then, uh, this series is definitely going to be for you. I, I, I, I’m designing this series so that some guy like me, who’s never done this before, can start from episode one and work all the way through. By the end, should know everything they got to know to build the same kind of engine that I’m building here. And that’s, guys, that’s why I’m taking it slow. I know that, uh, you four guys that have built before probably look at this going, oh my gosh, this guy is so slow, it’s like watching molasses go uphill. But you’re probably not who this series is for. But you might find it interesting, so I hope that you do.

So guys, do myself and yourself a favor and make sure that you’re subscribed and have those notifications turned on because next time, I swear to you that you see this engine, I will be tearing it apart to see what’s salvageable and set the stage for the 408 stroker build. Um, it’s going to be a lot of work. It’s going to be a lot of head scratching for me ’cause I’ve never done it before. Um, it’s a big, uh, big task and, uh, I’m sure there’ll be a little bit more than just a little bit of cussing under my breath. Um, but I’m looking forward to it.

You know, let me know if you guys have done a stroker engine yourself and how it went. What was a dream come true or a frustrating odyssey of stripped bolts and missing gaskets? Because it is intimidating for a first timer, uh, but I want to hear about it. If you have any other questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, as always, stick them below. Thanks again for watching and we will see you next time.

She’s rough around the edges but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching, we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching, we will see you next time.