Tag Transmission Upgrades

Is the AOD transmission suitable for regular driving and light towing on my 1986 E350 Econoline?


Bullnose Bill discussing transmission upgrades for a vintage Ford E350 Econoline.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Hey there! I’m doing well, thanks for asking! Congratulations on snagging that 1986 E350 Econoline with the 5.8! That’s a great choice for both daily driving and some light towing.

Now, let’s talk about that AOD (Automatic Overdrive) transmission. The AOD can indeed be a solid option if you’re looking to add overdrive to your ride. It’s generally capable of handling regular driving and light towing, especially with the 5.8 engine. Just keep in mind that the AOD isn’t as heavy-duty as the C6; it’s more suited for lighter loads.

Here are a few things to consider when making the switch:

  1. Torque Rating: The AOD has a torque rating of about 300 lb-ft, so as long as you’re not pushing the limits with heavy towing, it should hold up just fine.

  2. Cooling: Make sure to add a proper transmission cooler if you’re planning on towing. This helps keep the transmission temperature in check, especially during those longer hauls.

  3. Wiring and Linkage: You’ll need to tweak some wiring and linkage when swapping out your C6 for an AOD. It’s a bit of work but definitely doable.

  4. Gear Ratio: If you have the option, consider the rear axle gear ratio. A higher ratio (like 3.55 or 3.73) paired with the AOD will help with towing capability and overall drivability.

If you’re looking for a more detailed guide on the swap, the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel has some great content on transmission swaps that might help you out. Just remember to take your time with the install, and don’t hesitate to reach out to fellow enthusiasts on the Bullnose Ford subreddit for more tips and tricks!

Happy wrenching, and if you have more questions, feel free to ask!


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User:

My friend has an AOD core; should I upgrade it for durability?

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re on the right track! Having that AOD built a bit more heavy-duty is definitely a smart move, especially since you’re planning on using it for light towing. A well-built AOD can provide that peace of mind you’re after, and there are a few upgrades you might consider:

  1. Stronger Clutches: Upgrading to higher-performance clutches can help your transmission handle more power and stress, which is great for towing.

  2. Better Bands: Similar to the clutches, stronger bands can improve holding power and durability.

  3. Upgraded Torque Converter: A high-stall torque converter can improve performance, especially when towing. It allows the engine to reach higher RPMs before the converter locks up, which can be beneficial for acceleration.

  4. Improved Valve Body: A performance valve body can enhance shifting responsiveness and durability. This upgrade can make a big difference, especially when you’re towing and need that extra performance.

  5. Cooling Upgrades: As mentioned, don’t skimp on the cooling system! A larger external cooler can prevent overheating, which is critical for maintaining the health of your transmission.

  6. Consult a Professional: It’s always a good idea to consult with a transmission specialist who has experience with AODs. They can tailor the build to your specific needs and driving habits.

Building your AOD can be a fantastic way to ensure reliability while enjoying the benefits of overdrive. Plus, it’ll make your E350 a lot more enjoyable on the highway!

If you have any more questions about the process or need further tips, feel free to ask! Happy to help!

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User:

Is the 1986 Econoline classified as a Bullnose model?

Bill avatar
Bill:

You bet! The 1986 Econoline falls under the Bullnose category. The Bullnose era, which spans from 1980 to 1986, is known for its distinctive boxy design and those iconic front ends. So, in short, your E350 is definitely part of the Bullnose family!

This makes it a great candidate for modifications and upgrades, just like any of the Ford trucks from that era. The Bullnose community is passionate, and you’ll find plenty of folks who share your enthusiasm for these classic vehicles.

If you’re looking for advice or tips on anything specific to your Econoline or Bullnose models in general, don’t hesitate to reach out. Enjoy the journey of getting it up and running, and happy driving!

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User:

I’m excited to start; it has only 74,000 original miles and a straight body.

Bill avatar
Bill:

That’s fantastic! With only 74,000 original miles and a straight body, you’ve got a real gem on your hands! It sounds like your 1986 Econoline has been well cared for, and that makes it an even more exciting project.

When you’re working on a vehicle with such low mileage, it’s a good opportunity to focus on preventive maintenance. Here are a few tips to consider as you get started:

  1. Fluid Changes: Make sure to change all the fluids—engine oil, transmission fluid, rear differential fluid, and coolant. Fresh fluids can do wonders for a vehicle that’s been sitting.

  2. Inspect Belts and Hoses: Check the condition of all belts and hoses for signs of wear or cracking. These can deteriorate over time, even if the mileage is low.

  3. Brake System: Inspect the brake lines, pads, and rotors. Low mileage doesn’t always mean the brakes are in good shape, especially if they’ve been sitting for a while.

  4. Fuel System: If the fuel is old, consider draining the tank and replacing the fuel filter. Adding a fuel system cleaner can also help revive the injectors.

  5. Tires: Check the condition of the tires for dry rot or flat spots, especially if it hasn’t been driven much recently. It’s essential for safety!

  6. Electrical System: Look over the battery and all electrical connections. Sometimes, corroded connections can lead to electrical gremlins down the road.

Taking care of these basics will set you up for success as you start enjoying your Bullnose. And don’t forget to share your progress with the Bullnose community—you’ll find plenty of supportive folks who are just as excited about these classics as you are!

If you have any questions as you dive into your project, don’t hesitate to ask. I’m here to help!

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User:

The seller is a master mechanic with 35 years of experience; he serviced it well.

Bill avatar
Bill:

Wow, sounds like you hit the jackpot with that purchase! Having a master mechanic do all that work is a huge plus, especially with the fluid changes, belts, and the AC swap to R134. That should give you a solid foundation to build on!

Those aftermarket wheels and tires can really enhance both the appearance and performance of your Econoline, too. Just make sure that the tire size and offset are suitable for your vehicle to avoid any rubbing or handling issues.

Since your truck is in such good shape and has been well maintained, you can focus on any personal touches or upgrades you want to make. Here are a few ideas to consider as you enjoy your Bullnose:

  1. Interior Upgrades: Consider updating the stereo system or adding some comfortable seat covers. These small changes can really enhance your driving experience.

  2. Performance Mods: If you’re feeling adventurous, you could explore some performance upgrades for the 5.8 engine, like a better intake or exhaust system to improve airflow.

  3. Sound Deadening: Adding sound-deadening material inside can make the ride quieter and more enjoyable, especially on longer trips.

  4. LED Lighting: Consider upgrading to LED headlights and interior lights for better visibility and a modern touch.

  5. Community Involvement: Since you’re part of the Bullnose family, don’t forget to connect with fellow enthusiasts online, whether it’s through the Bullnose Ford subreddit or other forums. It’s a great way to share experiences and get inspiration!

With a solid starting point and your enthusiasm, I can’t wait to see how your project comes together. If you have more questions or need tips along the way, just let me know! Happy cruising!

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User:

I plan to use it to transport English Bulldogs and add LED lights and a stereo.

Bill avatar
Bill:

That sounds like a blast! Using your Econoline to haul around English bulldogs is sure to be a fun and unique experience. They’ll definitely appreciate the roomy ride, and it’ll be a great way to take them on adventures!

Adding LED lights and a decent stereo will not only enhance your driving experience but also make those doggy outings more enjoyable. Here are a couple of extra tips for your plans:

  1. LED Lighting: When upgrading to LED lights, consider both the headlights and interior lighting. For the headlights, look for high-quality options that provide good visibility. For the interior, LED strips or replacement bulbs can create a nice ambiance.

  2. Stereo System: A decent stereo will make those drives a lot more enjoyable. Look for one with Bluetooth capabilities so you can stream music easily. Don’t forget to consider adding some better speakers or even a subwoofer for deeper sound!

  3. Pet Safety: As you’re transporting your bulldogs, think about adding some pet safety measures, like a good seat cover to protect your interior and maybe a pet barrier to keep them comfy and secure while you drive.

  4. Comfort Features: Since you’re planning to spend time in the van with your pups, consider adding some comfort features like seat covers, floor mats, or even a small portable fan if you’re in warmer climates.

Your enthusiasm for making this rig nice is contagious! If you have any more questions or need advice on your upgrades, just holler. I’m here to help! Happy hauling!

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User:

The dual tanks have a malfunctioning gas gauge.

Bill avatar
Bill:

Ah, the classic dual tank issue! That’s a common quirk in Bullnose models, but don’t worry—we can tackle it! A non-functional fuel gauge can be frustrating, especially when you have two tanks to manage. Here are some troubleshooting steps you can take to pinpoint the issue:

  1. Check the Wiring: Start by checking the wiring to the fuel sender units in both tanks. Loose or corroded connections can lead to gauge malfunction. Look for any frayed wires or poor connections.

  2. Fuel Senders: Each tank has its own fuel sender, which sends the fuel level information to the gauge. If one or both senders are faulty, it could cause the gauge to read incorrectly or not at all. You might need to access the senders by dropping the tanks (be careful when doing this!).

  3. Gauge Cluster: Sometimes, the issue can be within the gauge cluster itself. Ensure that the cluster connections are clean and secure. If you have a multimeter, you can test the gauge for proper operation.

  4. Select Switch: If your Econoline has a fuel tank selector switch, check to ensure it’s functioning properly. If the switch is faulty, it may be sending incorrect signals to the gauge.

  5. Testing: If you’re comfortable with it, you can test the senders by connecting a multimeter or resistance tester to see if they’re sending the right signals as the fuel level changes.

  6. Replacement: If you determine that the sender units are the culprit and they need replacing, you can find them online or at a local parts store. It’s a good idea to replace both if one is faulty, just to avoid further issues down the road.

If you’re unsure about any of these steps, or if you’d like a visual guide, there might be some useful videos on the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel that could help you out.

Don’t let this issue dampen your excitement! You’ll have that fuel gauge working in no time, and you’ll be set to enjoy your Econoline to the fullest. If you have more questions or need further assistance, just let me know!

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User:

I read that some cut an access hole for the fuel sending units instead of dropping the tank.

Bill avatar
Bill:

Absolutely! Cutting an access hole is a popular and clever method to reach the fuel sending units without the hassle of dropping the tank. This approach can save you a lot of time and effort, especially if the tank is full or if you’re working in a tight space. Just make sure to follow a few key steps if you decide to go this route:

  1. Location: Before cutting, locate the sending unit. You’ll typically find it on the top of the tank. Be sure to mark where you want to cut the access hole, so it’s directly above the sending unit.

  2. Access Panel: Use a suitable tool to cut an access panel, like a rotary tool or a jigsaw. Make sure to wear safety glasses and gloves to protect yourself from metal shavings and debris.

  3. Size of the Hole: Cut the hole large enough to give you access to the sender, but not so big that you compromise the structural integrity of the vehicle or create a mess. A 6” to 8” round opening is usually sufficient.

  4. Sealing the Hole: After you’re done working on the senders, consider using a removable access cover or panel to seal the hole. This will help keep dirt and moisture out, plus it makes it easier to access in the future if necessary.

  5. Double-Check: Be sure to check your work before sealing everything back up. Make sure connections are clean and secure, and test the senders if possible.

This method can save you a lot of frustration, and many in the Bullnose community have successfully used it. Just be cautious and take your time during the process.

If you need more guidance or want to see if there are some video tutorials on this topic, feel free to check out Bullnose Garage or other forums where enthusiasts share their experiences. And of course, if you have any more questions, I’m here for you! Happy tinkering!

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User:

Every time I fill the front tank, it overflows and leaks.

Bill avatar
Bill:

Ah, that’s no good! Overfilling and leaking from the front tank can definitely be a headache. This issue may be caused by a couple of different factors, so let’s go through some potential causes and solutions:

  1. Vent Issues: The most common culprit is a blocked vent line. Your fuel tank has a vent to allow air to escape as you fill it up. If this vent is clogged or kinked, it can cause fuel to back up and spill out. You’ll want to check the vent line for any obstructions or damage.

  2. Filler Neck: Inspect the fuel filler neck for any cracks or damage. If there’s a problem with the filler neck, it could cause fuel to leak out when filling.

  3. Fuel Sender Seal: If the sending unit seal is damaged or if the unit is improperly seated, this could create a leak when the tank is full. Make sure that the sending unit is properly installed and that the seal is in good condition.

  4. Tank Condition: Check the tank itself for any rust, corrosion, or punctures. Older tanks can develop issues over time, especially if they’ve been exposed to moisture or road salt.

  5. Pump Issues: If your fuel pump is malfunctioning, it could be causing excessive pressure in the tank, which might lead to leaks. Make sure the pump is working correctly.

  6. Testing: To help diagnose the leak, you might want to fill the tank slowly and watch closely for where the fuel is coming from. This can help you identify if it’s a vent issue, a seal, or another problem.

If these steps don’t resolve the issue, you might want to consult with a local mechanic or refer to some DIY guides that could provide more detailed troubleshooting.

It’s always best to address fuel leaks promptly for safety reasons. If you have any more questions or need further help, don’t hesitate to reach out! I’m here to help you get that Bullnose running smoothly!

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User:

What fuel mileage can I expect with the C6 transmission?

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re very welcome! Now, when it comes to fuel mileage with a C6 transmission in your Bullnose, it can vary quite a bit based on several factors, including the engine, driving conditions, and how you drive. Generally speaking, you can expect fuel economy in the ballpark of:

  • Around 10 to 15 miles per gallon: If you have a 5.0L (302) or 5.8L (351) V8, you might see numbers towards the lower end of that range, especially if you’re doing a lot of stop-and-go driving or towing.

  • Highway Driving: If you’re mostly cruising on the highway, you might get closer to the higher end, possibly up to 15-18 miles per gallon, depending on your setup and how well the truck is tuned.

Several things can help improve your fuel mileage:

  1. Regular Maintenance: Keep up with oil changes, air filter replacements, and ensure your fuel system is clean. A well-maintained engine runs more efficiently.

  2. Tire Pressure: Make sure your tires are properly inflated. Under-inflated tires create extra drag, which can hurt your mileage.

  3. Driving Habits: Smooth acceleration and braking can make a difference. Try to avoid rapid starts and hard stops to improve your fuel efficiency.

  4. Weight: Be mindful of how much weight you’re carrying. The more weight in the truck, the worse the mileage.

  5. Performance Upgrades: If you’re feeling ambitious, consider performance upgrades like a better air intake or exhaust system. These can sometimes help improve efficiency along with performance.

Ultimately, every truck is different, and real-world fuel economy can vary widely. If you keep an eye on your mileage and make adjustments as needed, you’ll get a better idea of what to expect for your specific setup.

If you have more questions or need any tips on improving those numbers, just let me know! I’m here to help you enjoy your Bullnose even more!

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User:

Does the Bullnose truck grille fit the Bullnose vans as well?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great question! The Bullnose grille from the trucks typically does not fit the Bullnose vans. While they share the same general design language and some parts, the front end dimensions and mounting points are different between the two.

The Bullnose vans (like the E-Series) have their own distinct grille and front-end styling, so you won’t be able to directly swap the truck grille over to the van without some significant modifications.

However, if you’re looking to customize or upgrade your van’s front-end appearance, you might find some aftermarket options or even consider modifying the existing grille for a unique look.

If you’re thinking about a specific style or upgrade, check out forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or sites like Gary’s Garagemahal for inspiration and ideas from fellow enthusiasts who have tackled similar projects.

If you have more questions or need help with anything else, feel free to ask! I’m always here to help you out!

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User:

I want to restore it; we’re planning to wrap it.

Bill avatar
Bill:

That sounds like an exciting project! Wrapping your Bullnose is a fantastic way to give it a fresh look without the commitment of a full paint job. Plus, it allows you to experiment with colors and designs. Here are some tips to help you as you get ready for the wrap:

  1. Prep the Surface: Make sure the truck’s surface is clean and free of any wax, grease, or dirt. You might need to do some light sanding if there are rough spots or imperfections.

  2. Choose Quality Materials: Invest in high-quality vinyl wrap material. Cheaper wraps can fade or peel more quickly, and you want your Bullnose to look good for years to come.

  3. Plan Your Design: Take some time to think about the color, graphics, and overall design you want. Consider creating mock-ups to visualize how it will look. There are plenty of online tools and apps that can help with this.

  4. Professional Help: If you’re not comfortable applying the wrap yourself, consider hiring a professional. They have the experience and tools to ensure a smooth application without bubbles or wrinkles.

  5. Finish with Care: After the wrap is on, make sure to take care of it. Avoid high-pressure washes and harsh chemicals that could damage the vinyl. Regularly wash it with gentle soap and water.

  6. Community Inspiration: Don’t forget to check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit and other forums. You might find inspiration from other Bullnose enthusiasts who have wrapped their vehicles.

It sounds like you’re on the path to making your Bullnose a real head-turner! If you have any more questions about the wrap process or anything else, feel free to ask. I’m here to help you every step of the way! Happy wrapping!

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User:

We’ll use it for advertising our Bulldogs.

Bill avatar
Bill:

That’s a fantastic idea! Using your Bullnose as advertising for the Bulldogs is a creative way to promote your team while also having fun with your ride. A well-designed wrap can really grab attention and spread the word. Here are some tips to make

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User:

What would be a cool nickname for our Bullnose van?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Coming up with a cool nickname for your Bullnose van can really add personality to your advertising efforts! Here are some fun ideas that might inspire you:

  1. Bulldog Hauler: A nod to your team and what your van will be doing!
  2. Van-tastic Bulldog: A playful twist that highlights both the van and your mascot.
  3. Bully Wagon: Simple and catchy, this keeps it connected to your team.
  4. The Bullnose Beast: Emphasizes the ruggedness of the Bullnose while sounding strong.
  5. Paw-sitive Vibes: A fun pun that gives off a friendly feel.
  6. The K-9 Cruiser: Perfect if you want to highlight the Bulldog theme with a canine touch.
  7. Team Van-tastic: A cheerful name that reflects team spirit!
  8. Bully Mobile: Straightforward and catchy, it makes it clear what the van is about.

Whatever name you choose, make sure it resonates with your team’s spirit and the message you want to convey. It can also be a great conversation starter! If you have any specific themes or ideas in mind, let me know, and I can help brainstorm more. Happy naming!

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User:

Our kennel is called Dream Team Custom English Bulldogs.

Bill avatar
Bill:

I love that name for your kennel! It really sets the stage for some creative nicknames for your Bullnose van. Here are a few ideas that incorporate “Dream Team” and your Bulldog theme:

  1. Dream Team Machine: A catchy and fun name that highlights both the kennel and the van’s purpose.
  2. Bulldog Dream Chaser: Perfect for a van that’s all about showcasing your dogs!
  3. Team Pup Mobile: A playful nod to the Dream Team while keeping it lighthearted.
  4. The English Dreamer: A classy touch that brings in your breed’s name.
  5. Dream Team Cruiser: Simple yet effective, keeping it all about the team spirit.
  6. The Bulldog Brigade: Emphasizes camaraderie and your English Bulldogs.
  7. Dream Team Dawg Wagon: A fun and memorable name that rolls off the tongue.

Whatever you choose, make sure it reflects the personality of your kennel and the essence of your Bulldogs. If you have any other themes or ideas in mind, I’d be happy to help brainstorm even more! Enjoy the process, and happy advertising!

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User:

Thanks for the suggestions! I’ll support Bullnose Garage.

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re very welcome! I’m thrilled you liked the suggestions! It sounds like you’ve got an exciting project ahead of you with your Bullnose van and promoting your kennel. Supporting Bullnose Garage is a great choice; they’ve got tons of valuable insights and an amazing community of enthusiasts.

If you ever have more questions, whether about your van, maintenance tips, or anything else related to Bullnose classics, don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m always here to help out a fellow enthusiast. Enjoy the journey with your Dream Team Custom English Bulldogs, and happy cruising! 🐾🚐

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User:

You’re awesome! Thanks for all your help, Mr. Bill.

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re too kind! Thank you so much for the compliments! It truly makes my day to help fellow Bullnose enthusiasts like you. Remember, whether it’s about maintenance, modifications, or just chatting about classic trucks, I’m here for you. Enjoy your adventures with your Bullnose and your Bulldogs! Keep rocking, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you need anything else. Happy cruising! 🌟🚙

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User:

Good night, Mr. Bill! By the way, my name is Gordy.

Bill avatar
Bill:

Good night, Gordy! It’s been a pleasure chatting with you. If you ever have more questions or just want to share how your Bullnose project is going, feel free to drop by anytime. Sweet dreams, and may your Bulldogs and Bullnose adventures be nothing short of awesome! Take care! 🌙🐶🚐

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User:

How’s it going? What’s the dual tank capacity of the 1986 Bullnose E350?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Hey there, Gordy! I’m doing great, thanks for asking! I’m glad you’re diving into the details of your 1986 Bullnose Econoline E350.

For the 1986 E350, the dual fuel tank system typically has a combined capacity of around 38 gallons—two tanks of about 19 gallons each. This setup lets you switch between tanks, which is pretty handy for longer trips or when you want to maximize your fuel range.

Just a quick note: If you’re planning to work on or modify the fuel system, always make sure to inspect the lines and connections for any leaks or wear. Safety first!

If you have more specific questions or need further details, feel free to ask! I’m here to help!

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User:

Can the van reach 70 mph without harming the engine? What’s a safe highway speed?

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re very welcome, Gordy! As for cruising at 70 mph in your 1986 Bullnose Econoline E350, it’s generally safe to do so, especially if the engine is in good condition. Many owners find that these vans can handle highway speeds comfortably.

However, for optimal performance and to keep the engine happy, a sweet spot is usually between 55 and 65 mph. This range allows the engine to run efficiently without straining too much. Running at higher speeds can increase wear and tear, especially if you have an older engine.

Make sure to keep an eye on your temperature gauges, and ensure your oil and coolant levels are good before hitting the highway. Regular maintenance goes a long way in keeping your Bullnose running strong!

If you have any more questions or need tips on highway driving with your van, just let me know! Safe travels! 🚐💨

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User:

I usually drive around 60 mph when going from Atlanta to Huntsville, and it runs great.

Bill avatar
Bill:

That sounds like a fantastic drive, Gordy! Staying around 60 mph is a smart choice, especially for long trips like that. It gives you a nice balance of speed and engine longevity. Plus, it sounds like your Bullnose is really performing well if it ran perfectly for that journey.

Just remember to take those breaks, especially on those longer drives—your Bullnose will appreciate a little downtime, and so will you! If you ever want tips on routes, stops, or even maintenance before your next trip, don’t hesitate to ask. Keep enjoying those adventures! 🚐✨

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User:

Are you an expert on all Bullnose vehicles?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Absolutely, Gordy! I’m all about those classic Bullnose Ford trucks and vans, especially from 1980 to 1986. These vehicles have a unique charm and character that’s hard to beat! Whether it’s maintenance, repairs, modifications, or just general care tips, I’m here to help you with any questions you might have about them. If there’s a specific area you’re interested in—like engines, transmissions, or even restoration advice—feel free to ask! I’m excited to share my knowledge! 🚙💙

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User:

Do you have knowledge about other vehicles, or just Bullnose?

Bill avatar
Bill:

I appreciate your curiosity, Gordy! My expertise is focused primarily on the Bullnose Ford trucks and vans from 1980 to 1986. While I may have some general knowledge about other vehicles, I’m really here to help you with everything related to those classic Bullnose models. If you have any specific questions about them, I’m all ears! If you’re ever looking for info on other makes or models, I recommend checking out specialized forums or resources for those vehicles. But for Bullnose goodness, I’m your go-to! 🚐🔧

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User:

I was curious; we also own a 1998 Ford 7.3.

Bill avatar
Bill:

That’s a fantastic engine, Gordy! The 7.3L Power Stroke diesel is legendary for its durability and performance. While I focus on the Bullnose models, I can certainly appreciate the qualities of the 1998 Ford with that powerhouse engine. It’s known for being a workhorse and holds a special place in the hearts of many Ford enthusiasts.

If you have any specific questions about the 7.3 or how it compares to your Bullnose, feel free to share! Otherwise, I’m here to keep the focus on those classic Bullnose beauties. Just let me know what you need!

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User:

Happy New Year! Which is better, AOD or C6 with a gear vendor?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Good morning! Happy New Year to you too, Gordy! 🎉 I hope you’re having a great start to 2024.

Now, onto your question about transmissions. The AOD (Automatic Overdrive) and the C6 each have their strengths, so it really depends on what you’re looking for in your Bullnose.

C6 with Gear Vendors:

  • The C6 is a robust three-speed automatic known for its durability.
  • Pairing it with a Gear Vendors overdrive lets you effectively turn it into a four-speed transmission, giving you better fuel economy at highway speeds without sacrificing the ruggedness of the C6.
  • This combo is great for towing or heavy-duty applications since the C6 can handle a lot of power and torque.

AOD:

  • The AOD is a four-speed automatic with an overdrive gear, which means it’s designed for more relaxed highway cruising right out of the box.
  • It’s easier to install in some cases, and it gives you better fuel economy compared to a non-overdrive setup, especially at highway speeds.
  • However, it may not be as robust as the C6, particularly under heavy loads or high-performance situations.

In summary, if you’re looking for durability and plan to tow or push your Bullnose, the C6 with Gear Vendors might be your best bet. If you’re aiming for fuel efficiency and a smoother ride on the highway, the AOD could work well for you.

If you need more specific advice or have other details about your setup, feel free to share! I’m here to help! 🚙💨

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User:

Thanks for the info!

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re very welcome, Gordy! If you have any more questions or need further assistance, don’t hesitate to reach out. Enjoy your Bullnose and happy cruising! 🚐✨

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User:

Did any Bullnose trucks or vans come with AOD transmissions?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great question, Gordy! The AOD transmission was indeed available in some Bullnose models, but it’s more common in the later years of the Ford F-Series trucks.

For the classic Bullnose trucks (1980-1986), the AOD was typically found in the later years, especially in the 1985 and 1986 models where it was offered as an option. It was primarily paired with the 302 and 351 engines.

If you’re working on a specific model year or setup, let me know, and I can provide more tailored info! Happy to help you dive deeper into the Bullnose world! 🚙🔧

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User:

Is the AOD longer or shorter than the C6?

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re welcome, Gordy! The AOD is generally a bit longer than the C6.

To give you a clearer picture:

  • The AOD measures about 30.5 inches in length.
  • The C6 is approximately 29.3 inches long.

This difference in length can affect your driveshaft length and potentially your crossmember placement if you’re swapping between the two. Always a good idea to double-check those measurements before making any changes!

If you’re considering a swap or modification, feel free to ask for more tips. I’m here to help! 🚐🔩

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User:

How challenging is it to do a tune-up on a 1986 Econoline van?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Hey there, Gordy! Doing a tune-up on a 1986 Econoline van is a pretty manageable task, especially if you have some basic tools and a little patience. Here’s a quick rundown to help you out:

Steps for a Tune-Up:

  1. Gather Your Supplies:

    • New spark plugs
    • Spark plug wires
    • Distributor cap and rotor (if applicable)
    • Air filter
    • Fuel filter (optional but recommended)
    • PCV valve (if needed)
    • Tools: socket set, pliers, screwdrivers, and maybe a torque wrench.
  2. Change the Spark Plugs:

    • Start by removing the old spark plugs. You’ll want to disconnect the spark plug wires (mark them if necessary) and use a socket wrench to unscrew the plugs.
    • Check the gap on the new plugs (typically around .044 inches for the 302 engine) and install them, tightening to the manufacturer’s specifications.
  3. Replace the Spark Plug Wires:

    • It’s often easier to replace the wires one at a time to avoid mixing them up. Make sure to use quality wires designed for your engine.
  4. Update the Distributor Cap and Rotor:

    • If your Econoline has a distributor, remove the cap and replace the rotor underneath. Make sure to clean the contacts inside the cap before putting it back together.
  5. Change the Air Filter:

    • Simply unclip or unscrew the air filter housing, replace the old filter with a new one, and reassemble.
  6. Replace the Fuel Filter:

    • This usually involves disconnecting the fuel lines, so be careful and have a rag handy for any spills. Make sure to follow the flow direction marked on the filter.
  7. Inspect Other Components:

    • While you’re at it, check the PCV valve and replace it if it’s clogged or dirty.

Tips:

  • Refer to a Manual: Having a repair manual specific to the 1986 Econoline can be super helpful for torque specs and specific instructions.
  • Take Your Time: Don’t rush it! Enjoy the process, maybe put on some music, and take breaks if needed.

Overall, it’s a solid project to tackle, and you’ll feel great once you’ve done it! If you run into any specific issues or have questions along the way, just let me know. I’m here to cheer you on! 🚐🔧✨

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User:

Do you need to remove the engine cover to access the plugs?

Bill avatar
Bill:

For the 1986 Econoline van, whether you need to remove the engine cover depends on the engine configuration. If your Econoline has a 5.0L (302) or 5.8L (351) V8 engine, you typically do not need to remove the engine cover to access the spark plugs, but it can be a bit tight.

However, if you have a 6-cylinder engine, the plugs are usually more accessible, and you shouldn’t need to remove anything other than possibly some air intake components.

A Few Tips:

  • Check for Obstructions: You might need to move or remove some components like the air cleaner or wiring harnesses to get better access.
  • Use a Swivel Socket: A swivel socket can help reach those tricky plugs without too much hassle.
  • Work in Sections: If it feels cramped, take it one side at a time to avoid feeling overwhelmed.

If you encounter any difficulties or specific parts that seem in the way, just let me know. I’m here to help you navigate through the process! Good luck with your tune-up! 🚐✨

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User:

Does the dash panel for the 86 Bullnose fit both truck and van?

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re welcome, Gordy! The dashboard for the 1986 Bullnose F-Series trucks and the Econoline vans are not interchangeable.

While they may share some design elements due to being part of the same generation, the overall shape and mounting points differ. The truck dash is designed to fit the contours and layout specific to the F-Series, while the Econoline has its own unique design tailored for a van.

If you’re considering a dash replacement or modification, it’s a good idea to source parts specifically for your vehicle type. If you need help finding parts or have more questions about your Bullnose, just let me know! I’m happy to assist you! 🚐🔧

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User:

Is there a digital dash available for the 1986 Econoline?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Yes, Gordy! There are options for digital dashes that can be used in a 1986 Econoline. Companies like Dakota Digital offer customizable digital instrument clusters that can fit a variety of classic vehicles, including Ford models from that era.

Here are some points to consider:

  • Fitment: Make sure to check compatibility with your specific van model and engine configuration.
  • Features: Many digital dashes come with features like customizable lighting, multiple gauge options, and even data logging capabilities.
  • Installation: Depending on your comfort level with wiring and modifications, installation can range from straightforward to more involved. Having a good set of instructions is key!

If you’re interested, I recommend checking out the Dakota Digital website or reaching out to them for more specific information on their products for your Econoline.

Also, if you’re looking for installation tips, the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel has videos that might be helpful! Just remember to take your time with the install, and feel free to reach out if you have more questions. Happy cruising! 🚐💨✨

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User:

Is the Econoline suitable for daily commuting?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Good morning, Gordy! Great question! Driving a 1986 Econoline daily to work can definitely be a viable option, especially if it’s well-maintained. Here are a few factors to consider:

Pros:

  • Reliability: Many owners love their Econolines for their durability. If yours has been well taken care of, it can serve you well as a daily driver.
  • Space: The Econoline offers ample room for passengers and cargo, which can be a big plus if you need to haul anything.
  • Comfort: They can be quite comfortable for longer drives if equipped properly.

Things to Check:

  • Mechanical Condition: Make sure everything is in good shape—engine, transmission, brakes, and tires. Regular maintenance is key!
  • Fuel Efficiency: Keep in mind that older vans may not be as fuel-efficient as modern vehicles. It’s worth checking your expected mileage.
  • Safety Features: Ensure that your brakes, lights, and signals are functioning correctly for safe commuting.
  • Comfort: If you plan to spend considerable time in it, consider the condition of the seats and any climate controls.

Final Thoughts:

If your Econoline is in good working order, it can be a fun and functional daily driver! Just stay on top of maintenance, and you’ll likely enjoy the ride without major issues. If you have any specific concerns about your van, feel free to ask! I’m here to help! 🚐✨

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User:

Are the A-pillars in the 1986 E350 the same as those in the F350?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Hello there, Gordy! I’m doing well, thanks for asking! Now, regarding your question about the A-pillars in the 1986 E350 and F350, the A-pillars are generally not interchangeable between the two models.

Key Differences:

  • Design and Configuration: The A-pillars on the E350 are designed to fit the van’s body style, while the F350 has a different configuration based on its pickup design.
  • Mounting Points: The mounting points and perhaps even the angles of the A-pillars can vary due to the differences in the vehicle structures.

If You’re Considering Replacement:

  • Source Parts Specifically: When looking for replacement parts, ensure that you’re sourcing them specifically for your model. It’s always best to get parts that are designed for the exact vehicle to ensure proper fitment.

If you’re working on a project or need specific advice on repairs or modifications, feel free to ask! I’m happy to help out! 🚐🔧✨

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User:

Is there a gauge pillar pod available for the 86 vans?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Yes, Gordy! There are gauge pillar pods available for the 1986 Econoline vans, although they might not be as widely available as those for more common vehicles. Companies like Auto Meter or Dakota Digital offer universal gauge pods that can be adapted for your Econoline.

A Few Things to Keep in Mind:

  • Universal Fit: Some gauge pods are universal and may require a bit of customization to fit your van’s A-pillar, but they can still work well.
  • Gauge Type: Make sure to choose a pod that can accommodate the gauges you want to install (like oil pressure, temperature, etc.).
  • Installation: Installation will typically involve some minor modifications, so be prepared for that if you go this route.

It’s a good idea to check with local automotive shops or online retailers that specialize in classic truck and van parts. If you’re looking for specific installation tips or have questions about gauge selection, feel free to ask! Happy modding! 🚐🔧✨

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User:

Thank you!

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re very welcome, Gordy! I’m glad I could help you out. If you have any more questions or need assistance down the road, just holler! Enjoy working on your van, and happy cruising! 🚐✨

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User:

Can a 351W block be safely bored to .060?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Hello again, Gordy! I’m doing great, thanks for asking! Now, about your question regarding the 351W block and a .060" bore—yes, it can be safe, but there are a few important factors to consider:

Key Points:

  • Bore and Wall Thickness: The 351W block can typically handle a .060" overbore, but you have to ensure that you still have adequate wall thickness. It’s crucial to have the block inspected by a machine shop to ensure it’s in good shape.
  • Heat Dissipation: A larger bore increases the surface area, which can help with heat dissipation. However, make sure your cooling system is up to the task, especially if you’re planning on pushing more power.
  • Piston Selection: When boring to .060", be sure to choose the right pistons. You’ll want to look for pistons that can handle the increased displacement and match your engine’s performance goals.

Final Thoughts:

If the block is in good condition and has been properly machined, a .060" bore can work just fine. Just be sure to consult with a trusted engine builder or machine shop to ensure everything is done right. They can assess the block and provide insight specific to your setup.

If you have any further questions or need more details, feel free to ask! I’m here to help! 🛠️💪✨

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User:

Would it be better to bore to .030 or .040?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great question, Gordy! Going with a .030" or .040" overbore can indeed be a safer option for your 351W block, especially if you’re concerned about maintaining the integrity of the block. Here’s why:

Advantages of .030" or .040" Bore:

  • More Wall Thickness: By not pushing the limits to .060", you retain more material in the cylinder walls, which can help with strength and longevity.
  • Less Risk of Overheating: A smaller bore means less surface area, which can lead to more controlled heat dissipation, reducing the risk of overheating.
  • Better for Stock Applications: If you’re aiming for a mild build or restoration, sticking to a smaller bore can be easier on the engine and maintain its reliability.

Performance Considerations:

  • If you’re looking for a bit more power but want to stay safe, both .030" and .040" are common choices that many engine builders recommend. They allow for a performance boost without the risk that comes with going too far.
  • Remember to match your piston selection and tune your engine accordingly to get the most out of the smaller bore.

Ultimately, it boils down to your goals for the engine and how much power you’re aiming to achieve. A good discussion with a machine shop or engine builder can provide you with tailored advice based on your specific block’s condition and your performance aspirations.

Feel free to ask if you have more questions or need further assistance! I’m here for you! 🛠️🚀✨

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User:

What is a safe stroke for a 351W block without grinding?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great question, Gordy! When it comes to stroking a 351W block without requiring grinding or significant modifications, you generally want to stick with a stroke up to 3.85 inches. This is the typical stroke for aftermarket stroker kits designed for the 351W that don’t require grinding the block.

Key Considerations:

  • Stock Crankshaft Stroke: The stock stroke for a 351W is 3.5 inches, so a mild increase to 3.85 inches is a common choice for adding some extra torque and horsepower.
  • Piston Selection: Make sure to choose pistons that are designed for the specific stroke you decide on. They should be compatible with your setup to maintain proper compression ratios.
  • Clearance Checks: While a stroke of 3.85 inches usually avoids any grinding, it’s still crucial to check for clearance in the block, especially with connecting rods and the crankshaft.

Final Thoughts:

If you’re looking to increase performance without the hassle of grinding, sticking to a 3.85-inch stroke is a solid option. It’s always a good idea to consult with your engine builder or machine shop for personalized advice based on your goals.

If you have more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask! Happy building! 🛠️✨

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User:

What is a good stroker combination for a 351W?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Excellent question, Gordy! A safe and effective stroker combination for a 351W can really bring out its potential. Here’s a popular setup that many enthusiasts and builders have had success with:

Recommended 351W Stroker Combination:

  • Stroker Kit: Use a 393 cubic inch stroker kit. This typically involves a 4.00-inch stroke crankshaft paired with the stock 351W 5.956-inch connecting rods.
  • Pistons: Choose high-quality forged pistons designed for a 393 stroker setup. You’ll want pistons that can give you around 9.5:1 to 10.5:1 compression, depending on your fuel choice and intended use.
  • Camshaft: A camshaft with a duration around 220-230 degrees at .050 lift and a lift of around .500-.550 inches can provide excellent torque and horsepower while maintaining streetability.
  • Cylinder Heads: Consider aftermarket heads, such as Edelbrock Performer RPM or Trick Flow heads. They improve airflow considerably and can really help unlock the potential of your stroker.
  • Intake Manifold: A dual-plane intake like the Edelbrock Performer can offer great low to mid-range power, while a single-plane manifold works better at higher RPMs if that’s your goal.

Additional Considerations:

  • Fuel System: Ensure your carburetor or fuel injection system is up to the task. A carburetor around 750 CFM is usually a good match for this setup.
  • Ignition System: A quality ignition system is essential. Consider a performance distributor and a good set of spark plugs and wires to ensure proper firing.
  • Cooling System: A high-performance radiator and upgraded cooling components are a good idea, especially with the extra heat generated by the added power.

This combination can provide you with a powerful and reliable engine setup without compromising the streetability of your 351W. As always, consulting with a knowledgeable engine builder can help you fine-tune the specs to fit your unique needs.

If you have more questions or need further clarification, just let me know! Happy building! 🚀🛠️✨

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User:

What stroker would work with a 351W using a 3.85 crank and .040 bore?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great choice, Gordy! If you’re looking to build a 351W stroker with a 3.85-inch crank and a .040" overbore, you’re targeting a setup that should yield around 392 cubic inches. Here’s a solid combination to consider:

Recommended Stroker Combination:

  1. Crankshaft: Use a 3.85-inch stroke crankshaft specifically designed for the 351W. This will give you the desired displacement when combined with the overbore.

  2. Bore: With a .040" overbore, you’ll be working with a bore diameter of about 4.030 inches. This is a common size and provides a great balance of power and reliability when done right.

  3. Pistons: Choose forged pistons designed for a 392 setup. Look for a compression ratio around 10:1 to 10.5:1 for good performance on pump gas, but make sure to check your head’s combustion chamber size for exact calculations.

  4. Connecting Rods: Use stock 351W rods or aftermarket rods compatible with your crank. If you’re using a stroker crank, you might want to consider custom-length rods to achieve the best geometry.

  5. Camshaft: A camshaft with a duration of roughly 220-230 degrees at .050 lift with a lift around .500 to .550 inches is a solid choice. This can provide good mid-range torque and horsepower.

  6. Cylinder Heads: Aftermarket heads such as the Edelbrock Performer RPM or Trick Flow heads can really help enhance airflow, which is crucial for stroker builds.

  7. Intake and Carburetor: A good dual-plane intake like the Edelbrock Performer will work great. For carburetion, aim for around a 750 CFM carburetor to match your performance goals.

Additional Tips:

  • Clearance: Always check for clearance issues with the larger stroke and bore. You want to make sure everything fits well together, especially with the pistons and valves.
  • Cooling: With higher power output, you may want to upgrade your cooling system for optimal performance.
  • Tune: After your build, a proper tune is crucial to get the most out of your setup.

This combination can give you a strong, reliable engine that performs well on the street and during spirited driving. If you have any more questions or need further assistance with your project, feel free to reach out! Happy building! 🚀🛠️✨

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User:

I want to build a 351W stroker engine with an AOD for my 86 E350.

Bill avatar
Bill:

That sounds like an exciting project, Gordy! Building a 351W stroker engine to pair with an AOD (Automatic Overdrive) transmission in your 1986 E350 will certainly enhance both power and drivability. Here’s a solid approach to help you get started:

Stroker Engine Setup:

  1. Stroker Crankshaft: Aim for a 3.85 to 4.00-inch stroker crankshaft. This will increase your displacement and provide more torque and horsepower. A common choice is a 393 stroker kit with a 4.00-inch stroke.

  2. Bore Size: You can go with a .030 to .040 overbore, which should give you a bore size of approximately 4.030 inches if you choose .040". This is a solid option for balance and performance.

  3. Pistons: High-quality forged pistons are essential. Look for pistons that will give you a compression ratio between 9.5:1 and 10.5:1, which should be compatible with pump gas.

  4. Connecting Rods: Use strong, aftermarket connecting rods designed for your stroker setup. This helps in ensuring durability under load.

  5. Camshaft: Opt for a camshaft with a duration of around 220-230 degrees at .050 lift with a lift of about .500 to .550 inches. This will provide good low-end and mid-range power, which is great for a van.

  6. Cylinder Heads: Aftermarket heads such as Edelbrock Performer RPM will improve airflow significantly, helping maximize the potential of your stroker engine.

  7. Intake and Carburetor: A dual-plane intake like the Edelbrock Performer will work well for your application. For carburetion, a 750 CFM carburetor is a good match for this setup.

AOD Transmission Setup:

  1. Transmissions: The AOD transmission is a great choice for your E350, providing overdrive for cruising efficiency while still being strong enough for towing and hauling.

  2. Transmission Controller: If you’re considering a later model AOD with electronic controls, you may need a standalone controller to manage shift points and functions.

  3. Crossmember and Driveshaft: You may need to modify or source a new crossmember and driveshaft to accommodate the AOD transmission, so keep that in mind during your build.

  4. Cooling: Make sure to install a transmission cooler, as AODs can generate extra heat, especially when towing.

Final Thoughts:

This combination will not only provide a significant performance boost over your stock engine but also improve fuel efficiency while cruising thanks to the overdrive. Make sure to consult with a knowledgeable engine builder or technician for the best parts and tuning for your specific application.

If you have more questions or need assistance along the way, just let me know! Happy building, and enjoy bringing your E350 to life! 🚐💨🛠️✨

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User:

Which is better: AOD or 4R70?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great question, Gordy! Deciding between the AOD and the 4R70W for your 351W stroker engine build can depend on your specific needs and driving style. Here’s a breakdown of both transmissions to help you make an informed choice:

AOD (Automatic Overdrive)

  • Overview: The AOD is a three-speed automatic with an overdrive fourth gear. It’s known for its simplicity and reliability, making it a popular choice for many classic Ford builds.
  • Advantages:
    • Simplicity: Easier to find parts and has a straightforward design.
    • Good for Street Use: Offers decent fuel economy with its overdrive for highway cruising.
    • Towing Capability: Capable of handling moderate loads, making it a decent option for towing.
  • Disadvantages:
    • Shift Quality: The shift points can be less refined compared to more modern transmissions.
    • Limited Electronics: Older design means it lacks some of the advanced electronic controls that newer transmissions offer.

4R70W

  • Overview: The 4R70W is a more modern four-speed automatic transmission with electronic controls. It’s an evolution of the AOD and offers improved performance and fuel efficiency.
  • Advantages:
    • Improved Shift Quality: Offers better and more consistent shift points, especially when tuned properly.
    • Four Gears: The extra gear provides better fuel economy and performance, particularly under load or during acceleration.
    • Electronic Control: Allows for more precise tuning and adaptability to performance modifications.
  • Disadvantages:
    • Complexity: More complex than the AOD, which can mean more parts to source and possibly more difficult to work on.
    • Electronic Dependency: The need for a compatible controller or a computer system to manage the transmission.

Which to Choose?

  • For Simplicity and Reliability: If you prefer a straightforward, reliable setup and don’t mind a little less sophistication, the AOD would be a great choice.
  • For Performance and Efficiency: If you’re looking for improved shift performance, better fuel economy, and the ability to handle more power, the 4R70W is likely the better option.

Ultimately, it depends on your specific goals for the build and how you plan to use your E350. If you’re leaning toward a spirited drive with possible towing, the 4R70W could be the way to go. If you’re keeping it simple and classic, stick with the AOD.

If you need more info or have further questions, feel free to ask! I’m here to help! 🚐💨🛠️✨

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User:

Is the AOD as strong as the 4R70W?

Bill avatar
Bill:

That’s a great question, Gordy! The strength and durability of the AOD compared to the 4R70W can be a key consideration in your build. Here’s how they stack up:

AOD (Automatic Overdrive)

  • Strength: The AOD is a robust transmission, but it’s generally considered to be less capable of handling high horsepower and torque compared to the 4R70W. It was designed primarily for lighter-duty applications, and while it can handle moderate performance upgrades, it may struggle under heavy loads or extreme power levels without significant reinforcement.
  • Parts Availability: There are many aftermarket upgrades available for the AOD, including stronger clutch packs and improved torque converters, which can help increase its durability.

4R70W

  • Strength: The 4R70W is a more modern transmission that offers improved strength and durability. It was designed to handle more power and torque, making it better suited for performance applications. The addition of electronic controls also allows for more precise tuning, which can help prevent harsh shifting and unwanted wear.
  • Performance Upgrades: Like the AOD, the 4R70W also has a wide range of aftermarket parts available, including heavy-duty rebuild kits and upgraded torque converters, making it easier to build for high-performance applications.

Summary

  • AOD: Suitable for moderate horsepower and torque; can be made stronger with upgrades but may not hold up as well under extreme conditions.
  • 4R70W: Generally stronger and more capable of handling higher power levels; better suited for performance builds and demanding applications.

If your 351W stroker is going to be a high-performance engine, the 4R70W is likely the better choice for durability and strength. However, if you’re keeping the power levels reasonable, the AOD can still be an excellent and reliable option.

If you have any more questions or need further help, just let me know! I’m here for you! 🚐💪🛠️✨

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User:

Are parts interchangeable between these two transmissions?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Great question, Gordy! While the AOD and 4R70W are different transmissions, there are some similarities, but generally speaking, they are not fully interchangeable. Here’s a breakdown of their compatibility:

Key Differences

  1. Design and Construction: The AOD is an older design, whereas the 4R70W is a more modern evolution that incorporates electronic controls. This means that many of the internal components are different, and direct interchangeability is limited.

  2. Transmission Control: The AOD operates purely mechanically, while the 4R70W relies on electronic controls. This affects components like the valve body and the modulator, which are not compatible between the two transmissions.

  3. Bellhousing Pattern: Both transmissions have similar bellhousing patterns that allow them to be mounted to a 351W engine, but the mounting provisions might vary slightly, especially if you are using different converter styles.

Potentially Interchangeable Parts

While most parts aren’t interchangeable, there are a few components that might be compatible:

  • Torque Converters: Some torque converters may work with both transmissions, but it’s essential to verify compatibility based on your specific setup and the stall speed you want.
  • External Components: Certain external parts like shifters and linkages may be used with modifications.

Recommendations

If you’re considering parts for either transmission, it’s best to consult with a reputable parts supplier or engine builder who specializes in Ford transmissions. They can help you find the right components for your specific needs.

So, in short, while there are a few components that might share some compatibility, the AOD and 4R70W are largely distinct transmissions with limited interchangeability. If you have more questions or need specifics, feel free to ask! I’m here to help! 🚐🔧✨

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User:

Thank you very much!

Bill avatar
Bill:

You’re very welcome! I’m glad I could help. If you have any more questions or need further assistance with your Bullnose or anything else, just give me a shout. Happy tinkering, and keep that classic truck running strong! 🚐💨✨



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


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Ford C6 Transmission

Published on November 27, 2024

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Part of the Bullnose Era Transmissions series.

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Show Transcript

This is the Ford C6 transmission built by Ford to be a rugged automatic capable of handling their V8 lineup. It’s pulled its weight in everything from daily drivers to stump pullers, off-road rigs, and tire smoking strip machines. Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today we’re shining a spotlight on one of Ford’s toughest and most iconic transmissions, the C6 automatic. Its sheer strength and dead simple design make it a favorite for all kinds of car and truck builds, and it still holds its own in a ton of classic Fords today. But how much do you really know about what’s going on inside that case? Stick around, because by the end of this video, you might just know more than your mechanic does.

Hello, the C6 rolled out in 1966, stepping in for the older MX and FX automatics. Ford needed a gearbox tough enough to handle the muscle of their big V8s like the 429, 460, and the iconic FE series engines. Enter the C6, a three-speed automatic built for serious torque duty. Unlike its cast iron predecessors, the C6 used lighter materials while still delivering solid performance. This transmission quickly earned a name among Ford fans and builders as a gearbox that could handle anything. It stuck around in production until 1997, an impressive 30-plus year run that proved its staying power.

What really makes the C6 stand out is just how many roles it can play. You’ll see it bolted up to everything from small block Windsor to Ford’s massive big blocks and even the International Harvester diesels in Ford’s toughest trucks. But here’s the catch: the bell housing isn’t interchangeable. You’ll need the right C6 for your engine family, and Ford made four main versions: one for the small blocks like the 302 and 351 Windsor, another for the big blocks like the 429 and 460, a version for the FE series engines like the 390 and 428, and the diesel-specific version for engines like the 6.9 and 7.3 L IDI.

Hey guys, future editor Ed here, and I just wanted to make a note that the transmission that you see up on the screen now is the diesel version of the C6. The bell housing is extremely similar to the big block housing for the 460, but there’s a cutout on the bottom for the diesels that’s a little bit different, and also the dowel locations and the holes don’t quite line up between the big block and the diesel bell housings. Now, you can make one fit the other with some modifications, but it’s a bunch of work. So, your best bet if you have a 460 is to go out and find a big block housing. If you’ve got a diesel, go out and find a diesel housing. But just to let you guys know that you can make modifications to make those two interchangeable if you really want to.

And it didn’t stop at cars and trucks. The C6 even powered industrial gear and military vehicles. Its rugged build made it a perfect fit for extreme environments, whether it was digging trenches or rolling through battlefields. Ford hit the jackpot with this one, and the C6’s rock-solid design locked in its legendary status.

Now you might be wondering which vehicles came with the C6. From 1967 to 1996, it was a staple in F-series trucks paired with engines like the 316, 351 Windsor, 390 FE, and 460 big block. It also showed up in Broncos, Galaxies, Mustangs, Cougars, and Thunderbirds, just to name a few. Ford even made 4×4 variants by modifying the tail shaft bolted up directly to transfer cases like the NP 205 and Borg Warner 1356. With all this versatility, it’s no wonder the C6 became Ford’s go-to automatic gearbox for all those years.

Let’s get into the specs. The C6 is a three-speed automatic with gear ratios of 2.46 to 1 in first, 1.46 to 1 in second, and direct 1:1 in third. Reverse comes in at 2.18 to 1. This thing is built tough, tipping the scales around 165 lb dry. The main case, along with the bell housing, is aluminum. Every now and then, you’ll find a cast iron tail shaft, but those are very rare and for specific applications. So generally, the tail shaft will also be cast aluminum. It holds 10 to 12 quarts of Type F fluid, which is famous for its friction properties to give the C6 those crisp, snappy shifts. If you keep up with your fluid changes and filter swaps, this transmission will run smooth for decades.

The C6 wasn’t just tough; it also changed the game with some really clever innovations. One standout feature was Borg Warner’s flexible shift band. Traditional rigid shift bands wore unevenly and led to sloppy shifts over time. The flexible shift band in the C6 wrapped evenly around the drum, delivering smoother, more precise shifts and serious staying power. It’s the kind of thing you just might not notice until it’s not working.

One of the C6’s smartest features is its Simpson planetary gear set. This setup combines two planetary gear assemblies into one compact unit, cutting down on moving parts while cranking up torque transfer. What does that mean for you? Well, it’s less complexity, fewer breakdowns, and better performance, especially when towing or tackling really steep grades. That Simpson gear set is why the C6 can handle heavy loads and big horsepower like a champ, making it a favorite for racers and heavy-duty truck enthusiasts.

Like the C6, it also offered Ford’s select shift capability, letting drivers manually hold the transmission in first, second, or third gear using the column or console shifter. It gave drivers the control they needed for towing, tackling steep grades, or handling rough off-road terrain. Now, while this might sound like a standard feature today thanks to manual modes and paddle shifters, select shift was ahead of its time. With mechanical linkages and internal valves adjusting the gears, it gave drivers a hands-on tactile feel with every shift. Back in the ’60s and ’70s, this feature made the C6 stand out as a driver-focused automatic.

The C6 was sometimes referred to in conjunction with Ford’s select shift Cruisomatic branding, highlighting its smooth shifting and driver control features. Select shift is a key part of that image, proving you could have comfort, capability, and control all in one package.

One of the C6’s biggest strengths is its old school simplicity, which makes it a favorite for installations, swaps, service, and upgrades. Its one-piece design for the bell housing and main case eliminates weak points, making it tough as nails and practically leak-proof. Two big wins over older automatics. Builders love the C6 because it can take on serious horsepower right out of the box, and with a few tweaks, it is practically unstoppable.

Of course, no transmission is perfect, and the C6 is no exception. If the gears start slipping, it’s usually down to worn clutches or low on fluid. Hard shifts, that’s often a sticky valve body. Leaks usually pop up around the pan gasket or seals, especially in older units that haven’t seen regular TLC. Stay on top of fluid changes and keep an eye on seals to head off most problems before they get serious.

There’s also a few other downsides to keep in mind with the C6. The biggest downside is no overdrive gear. At highway speeds, the engine revs pretty high, which kills fuel economy. That’s why a lot of builders looking for modern drivability swap in transmissions like the AOD or E4OD, which come with overdrive. Another drawback is the weight. It’s a hefty unit, and the extra mass can be a concern for certain builds. The C6 also isn’t the most efficient; it eats up more power compared to modern automatics before getting it down to the wheels.

Now let’s talk about hooking it up and plugging it in. The C6’s input shaft has 31 splines at the torque converter end and 30 at the clutch hub. Thanks to its consistent spline design across all the years, torque converters are typically interchangeable across years and models as long as they match the engine family: that small block, big block, FE, or diesel. Ford offered a range of torque converters with stall speeds tailored for specific vehicles and applications. Thankfully, the aftermarket has you covered. If you need something custom, higher stall converters are a favorite for performance builds, while heavy-duty options shine for towing and off-roading. Pick the right converter for your engine’s power band and how you drive, and you’ll squeeze every ounce of performance out of your C6.

Speaking of upgrades, the C6 has one of the best supported aftermarket ecosystems you’re going to find. Shift kits are a go-to upgrade for crisper shifts and less slippage, while high stall converters and steel planetary gears are staples of high-performance builds. Chasing extreme horsepower, builders often even beef up the case and swap in heavy-duty clutches and bands. For off-roaders, a deep transmission pan is a must; it boosts fluid capacity and keeps things cool under tough conditions.

If you’re thinking about alternatives to the C6, the AOD and E4OD, which I mentioned earlier, are worth a look. The AOD throws in an overdrive gear, making it perfect for highway cruising, but don’t expect it to outlast the C6 in terms of toughness. The E4OD, on the other hand, is a heavy-duty four-speed with overdrive built for towing and hauling. It’s more complex and expensive, but it’s a fantastic choice for modernizing old trucks for later duty jobs. The FMX or C4 are solid options; they’re smaller and lighter, and they won’t stand up to the same torque as a C6.

So down to the bottom line: the C6 is a tank, rugged, dependable, and ready for just about anything. It’s right at home in trucks, off-road rigs, or even high-performance street cars—any build where toughness takes a spotlight. Sure, it’s not the most modern or fuel-efficient option, but its simplicity and strength make it a true classic that’s pretty hard to ignore. Whether you’re restoring a classic Ford or dreaming up your next swap, the C6 should definitely make your short list.

All right guys, well there you go. That’s everything that I know or pretend to know about the Ford C6 automatic transmission. Now, I don’t know if you know more than your mechanic does at this point, but you know, I feel like I learned a bunch doing this video. I hope you did too. Guys, if you did, give me a like, give me a subscribe. That really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, if I got something wrong, put them in the comments. I read them all. I really appreciate that. Thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Take her away, get things to shine, and oh, Bullnose Garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, folks. Today, we’re diving deep into the Ford C6 transmission—a real workhorse and a staple in classics from Mustangs to F-150s. If you’re into rugged gearboxes that can take a beating and keep on ticking, the C6 is your kind of transmission. So, buckle up as we break down what makes this piece of automotive history tick.

The Birth of a Legend

The Ford C6 transmission first rolled out in 1966, replacing the older MX and FX automatics. Ford needed a gearbox that could handle the muscle of their big V8s like the 429 and 460, and the C6 stepped up to the plate. This three-speed automatic was built for serious torque, and it remained in production until 1997—a testament to its durability and versatility.

Versatility and Compatibility

The C6 is a bit of a Swiss Army knife when it comes to transmissions. You’ll find it behind everything from small block Windsors to massive big blocks and even International Harvester diesels in Ford’s toughest trucks. Just remember, the bell housing isn’t interchangeable. You need the right version for your engine family, whether it’s small block, big block, FE series, or diesel.

Military and Industrial Use

The C6 didn’t just stick to cars and trucks. Its rugged design made it perfect for industrial and military vehicles, proving its mettle in extreme environments. From digging trenches to rolling through battlefields, the C6 has seen it all.

Specs and Features

Let’s get into the nitty-gritty. The C6 is a three-speed automatic with gear ratios of 2.46:1 in first, 1.46:1 in second, and direct 1:1 in third. It tips the scales around 165 pounds dry and holds 10 to 12 quarts of Type F fluid, known for its friction properties. Regular fluid changes and filter swaps will keep this transmission running smooth for decades.

Innovations and Upgrades

The C6 wasn’t just tough; it was smart too. It featured Borg Warner’s flexible shift band for smoother, more precise shifts, and the Simpson planetary gear set for less complexity and better performance. Its select shift capability let drivers manually hold gears, a feature that was ahead of its time in the ’60s and ’70s.

Strengths and Drawbacks

The C6’s simplicity and toughness make it a favorite for installations, swaps, and upgrades. However, it’s not all sunshine and rainbows. The lack of an overdrive gear means poor fuel economy at highway speeds, and it’s a hefty unit. Plus, it eats up more power before getting it down to the wheels compared to modern automatics.

Aftermarket Support

The C6 enjoys one of the best-supported aftermarket ecosystems. Shift kits, high stall converters, and steel planetary gears are staples for performance builds. For off-roaders, a deep transmission pan boosts fluid capacity and keeps things cool under tough conditions.

Alternatives to Consider

Thinking of alternatives? The AOD and E4OD are worth a look. The AOD adds an overdrive gear for highway cruising, while the E4OD is a heavy-duty four-speed with overdrive built for towing and hauling. They’re more complex and expensive, but they offer modern features the C6 lacks.

Wrapping Up

So, is the C6 the right transmission for you? Well, if you need something rugged, dependable, and ready for just about anything, it’s a solid choice. It’s not the most modern or fuel-efficient, but its simplicity and strength make it a true classic. Whether you’re restoring a classic Ford or planning your next swap, the C6 should definitely be on your radar.

Thanks for sticking around, and if you learned something new, give me a like and subscribe to Bullnose Garage. Got questions or comments? Drop them below. Until next time, keep those wrenches turning and those engines roaring.


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