Tag ZF5 Transmission

What are the differences in crossmembers for the 1983 Ford F250 460 ZF5?


Bullnose Bill explaining the 1983 Ford F250 crossmember features.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
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Bill says:

Great choice with the ’83 F250! The 460 engine and ZF5 transmission combination is a solid setup. When it comes to crossmembers, there are a few differences to be aware of, especially if you’re considering swapping in a ZF5 or dealing with repairs.

  1. Transmission Crossmember: The ZF5 has a different mounting point compared to the older Ford transmissions. If your truck originally had a C6 or similar, you’ll find that the crossmember mounting locations and style are different. The ZF5 crossmember is typically more robust to handle the torque from the 460 engine.

  2. Engine Crossmember: The engine crossmember remains relatively consistent across the Bullnose models, but you should ensure that the engine mounts align properly with the 460. Sometimes, modifications may be necessary depending on whether you’re swapping from a different engine type.

  3. Positioning: When swapping or updating your transmission, make sure to check that the position is correct. The ZF5 is longer than some earlier transmissions, which might require adjustments to the existing crossmember or driveshaft length.

  4. Mounting Hardware: Don’t forget about the mounting hardware! Ensure you have the right bolts and brackets, as these can vary between combinations.

If you’re looking for more detailed visual guidance, I always recommend checking out Bullnose Garage’s videos. They have some helpful resources on transmission swaps and crossmember setups that can really clarify things.

Do you have any specific plans for your truck or are you in the middle of a project? Let me know how else I can assist!


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User:

What power steering upgrades are available for larger tires?

Bill avatar
Bill:

Upgrading your power steering for bigger tires on your ’83 F250 is a smart move, especially if you’re looking for better handling and maneuverability. Here are some upgrades and modifications you can consider:

1. High-Performance Power Steering Pump

  • Upgrading to a high-performance power steering pump can provide more flow and pressure, which is crucial for turning larger tires. Look for pumps designed for off-road or heavy-duty applications.

2. Steering Gearbox Upgrade

  • Consider swapping in a heavier-duty steering gearbox. The stock gearbox may struggle with larger tires, so a gearbox from a later model or a performance gearbox designed for larger tires can help improve the feel and responsiveness of your steering.

3. Hydro Assist Steering

  • Hydro assist systems can significantly reduce the effort needed to turn larger tires. This involves adding a hydraulic ram to your existing steering setup, which helps push the steering linkage and makes turning much easier, especially at low speeds.

4. Bigger Steering Linkage

  • Upgrading to a larger diameter tie rod and drag link can improve steering stability and strength. Aftermarket options often provide more durability, which is important with larger tires.

5. Adjustable Steering Stabilizer

  • Adding an adjustable steering stabilizer can help reduce feedback from the road and provide a smoother drive. This is especially useful if you’re hitting bumps or uneven terrain.

6. Alignment and Steering Geometry

  • Don’t forget to get a professional alignment after making these upgrades. Proper alignment is crucial for maintaining control and ensuring even tire wear. Adjusting the steering geometry can also help with handling, especially on bigger tires.

7. Check for Leaks and Maintenance

  • Before diving into upgrades, ensure your current power steering system is in good condition. Check for leaks, fluid levels, and any worn components. Sometimes, a simple maintenance check can improve performance without the need for heavy upgrades.

Helpful Resources

For a hands-on view of some of these upgrades, take a look at Bullnose Garage’s YouTube channel. They often cover practical upgrades that enthusiasts like us can tackle in our own garages!

Do you have a specific tire size in mind, or are you working on a particular project? Let me know how I can help further!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What are the differences between the ZF5 S42 and S47 transmissions in a 1987 Ford F350?


Bullnose Bill explaining ZF5 transmission differences for 1987 Ford F350.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Ah, the 1987 F350 with the mighty 460! That’s a great truck you’ve got there. As for your ZF5 transmission, it can be a bit tricky to identify between the S42 and S47 when there’s no tag present, but I can help you narrow it down.

Generally, the S42 has a slightly shorter gear ratio compared to the S47, and it’s often found in lighter-duty applications. The S47, on the other hand, is designed for heavier loads and has a more robust structure.

Here are a couple of ways to help you identify which one you have:

  1. Gear Ratios: The easiest way to differentiate between the two is by checking the gear ratios. If you can get access to the transmission and operate it, the S42 typically has a first gear ratio of about 5.61:1, while the S47 has a ratio of around 6.34:1.

  2. Input Shaft: If you have a way to measure the input shaft length, the S42 usually has a shorter input shaft compared to the S47.

  3. Physical Dimensions: Sometimes, looking at the physical size and the shape of the transmission can provide clues. The S47 is a bit bulkier, especially around the bell housing area.

If you’d like to dive deeper into this topic, I recommend checking out the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel or forums like the F150 Forum and the Bullnose Ford subreddit. There are plenty of folks there with hands-on experience who can lend a hand!

Let me know if you have any other questions or need further clarification!


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User:

Is it possible to replace a ZF5 S42 with a ZF5 S47?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Absolutely! You can use a ZF5 S47 in place of a ZF5 S42, but there are a few considerations to keep in mind to ensure a smooth swap.

  1. Mounting Points: The transmission mounting points are generally the same, so you should be able to use the same crossmember. Double-check alignment to avoid any issues.

  2. Driveshaft Length: The S47 might have slightly different dimensions than the S42, especially if there are variations in gear ratios. You may need to adjust your driveshaft length or reconfigure its angles to prevent any vibrations or wear.

  3. Shift Linkage: Ensure the shift linkage is compatible. While they should generally be interchangeable, you may need to adjust or modify the linkage to fit perfectly.

  4. Gear Ratio: Since the S47 is usually geared for heavier loads, you might notice a difference in performance. It could mean a more robust feel when towing or hauling, but it might also change how your truck feels under normal driving conditions.

  5. Transmission Fluid: Don’t forget to use the correct transmission fluid as specified for the ZF5 to maintain optimal performance.

It’s always best to consult a service manual for your specific truck for detailed specifications, or consider reaching out to the Bullnose community forums, like the Bullnose Ford subreddit, for additional insights from fellow enthusiasts who’ve tackled similar swaps.

If you have any more questions or need further details about your setup, feel free to ask!

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User:

Can the transmission’s casting number indicate its model?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Yes, you can often identify your ZF5 transmission (whether it’s the S42 or S47) by the casting number found on the side of the transmission case. This number is usually stamped or cast into the metal and can provide important information regarding the specific model and its specifications.

Here’s how you can go about it:

  1. Locate the Casting Number: Check the driver’s side of the transmission case. You might need to clean off some grime or dirt to see it clearly.

  2. Decode the Number: Once you have the casting number, you can look it up online or refer to a service manual for your specific truck to determine the exact specifications. Some forums, like the Bullnose Ford subreddit, may also have members who can help you decode it.

  3. Compare with Known Values: If you find the casting number, you can compare it with known values for the S42 and S47 to figure out which one you have.

Identifying the correct transmission by casting number is a great way to ensure you have the right parts and information for maintenance or swapping. If you need help interpreting the casting number, feel free to share it, and I’ll do my best to assist you!

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User:

What does the casting number 130730108 4.4 signify?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Great job finding that casting number! Based on the casting number you’ve provided, 130730108 4.4, this generally corresponds to the ZF5 transmission, specifically indicating that it’s likely an S47.

The "4.4" part often refers to the output shaft diameter, but the most definitive way to confirm it’s the S47 is through the overall build and characteristics of the transmission as mentioned earlier. The S47 is designed for heavier-duty applications, which aligns with your 1987 F350 and its capabilities.

If you’re looking to verify this further, I’d recommend checking out forums like the Bullnose Ford subreddit or consulting with the Bullnose Garage YouTube channel, as there are plenty of enthusiasts who can offer additional insights on identifying ZF5 transmissions.

Do you have any more questions about your truck or any projects you’re working on? I’m here to help!

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User:

Where is the casting number located on the transmission of a cab and chassis 4×4 truck?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Thanks for the clarifying details! If the casting number is on the passenger side and your truck is a cab and chassis 4×4, that can impact the type of ZF5 transmission you have.

In cab and chassis configurations, Ford often used the ZF5 S47 due to its robust construction and ability to handle the additional weight and towing demands that come with those setups. The S47 is typically found in heavier applications, which fits well with the cab and chassis design.

Keep in mind that the layout and gearing of 4×4 systems can also influence the transmission’s characteristics. If you’re planning on any modifications or repairs, having the S47 means you might have a bit more durability for heavy towing or off-road use.

If you’re considering swapping or replacing parts, ensure you’re sourcing components that match the S47 specifications. Also, feel free to reach out to the Bullnose Garage community or the forums for any specific advice related to cab and chassis models!

If you have more questions about your specific setup or any other projects, just let me know!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What parts and adjustments are needed to swap a ZF5 transmission into a 1985 Ford F150 4X4 with a T19?


Bullnose Bill assisting with a ZF5 transmission swap on a 1985 Ford F150, showcasing tools and parts laid out for the project.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

Hey there! It sounds like you’ve got an exciting project on your hands swapping your T19 for a ZF5 transmission in your ‘85 F150! The ZF5 is a great upgrade for more torque handling and smoother shifts. Let’s dive into what you’ll need for that swap.

Parts and Tools Needed for ZF5 Swap

1. Transmission and Adapter

  • ZF5 Transmission: Make sure it’s in good working condition.
  • Adapter Plate: If applicable, ensure it mates correctly with your 300 I6 engine.

2. Driveline Components

  • Driveshaft: As you mentioned, the length will likely need adjusting, so be prepared to either shorten or lengthen your driveshaft. You may also need to check the yoke compatibility depending on your new output shaft.

3. Transmission Mount

  • ZF5 Mounting Bracket: This may differ from your T19, so you might need a new transmission mount or an adapter for your existing one.

4. Shifter Assembly

  • ZF5 Shifter: The shifter location will likely be different, so you may need the ZF5 shifter and possibly a new boot.

5. Crossmember

  • Transmission Crossmember: You may need a different crossmember for the ZF5, as it’s generally positioned differently than the T19.

6. Bellhousing

  • Ensure you have the correct bellhousing that fits the ZF5 with your 300 I6 engine, as it can differ from the T19 bellhousing.

7. Clutch Components

  • Clutch Fork and Throw-out Bearing: You might need to replace these depending on the compatibility with the new transmission.
  • Clutch Disc: Check if the existing clutch disc is compatible. You may need to upgrade it for the ZF5.

8. Hydraulic System

  • If your ZF5 uses a hydraulic clutch, you may need a new master and slave cylinder setup. This might involve additional lines or a different pedal assembly.

9. Wiring and Sensors

  • Check for any wiring adjustments necessary for the new transmission, especially if your ZF5 has sensors or needs a different neutral safety switch.

10. Fluid

  • Transmission Fluid: Ensure you have the right fluid (usually ATF or 50W oil) for the ZF5, as it might differ from what your T19 requires.

Tools You’ll Need

  • Basic hand tools (wrenches, sockets, etc.)
  • Torque wrench
  • Transmission jack
  • Floor jack and jack stands
  • Snap ring pliers (if needed for driveshaft work)

Tips for the Swap

  • Take Your Time: This swap can be complex, so take your time to ensure everything fits properly.
  • Label Everything: As you disassemble parts, label them to make the reinstallation process easier.
  • Consult Forums: As you tackle this project, don’t hesitate to consult the Bullnose Ford subreddit or the F150 forum for specific guidance and tips from fellow Bullnose enthusiasts.

Make sure to document your process; it could be helpful for others in the community looking to do the same swap! If you have any more questions or need further details, feel free to ask. Happy wrenching!


This conversation had no additional replies.



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

What does it take to swap a 1982 Ford Bronco from C6 to ZF5 4WD?


Bullnose Bill assists with the process of upgrading a 1982 Ford Bronco transmission.

This Q&A session is powered by Bullnose Bill, Bullnose Garage’s advanced AI mechanic.
Have your own question? Ask Bill!

Bill says:

I’m "Bullnose Bill," your friendly virtual mechanic specializing in classic Ford trucks, especially the iconic Bullnose models from 1980 to 1986. I’m here to help you with maintenance tips, repairs, modifications, and any questions you might have about these beloved vehicles. So, if you’ve got a question or need some advice, just let me know!


User avatar

User:

What is required to swap a 1982 Ford Bronco C6 to ZF5 4WD NP208?

Bill avatar

Bill:

Swapping a C6 transmission for a ZF5 in your 1982 Ford Bronco with a 351W is a great way to enhance your truck’s performance, especially if you’re looking for better gear ratios and improved drivability. Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll need to consider for this swap:

Parts and Equipment Required

  1. ZF5 Transmission:

    • Make sure to source a ZF5 that’s compatible with the 351W. Check for one that includes the transmission harness and any necessary adapters.
  2. NP208 Transfer Case:

    • You’ll need the NP208 transfer case, which is a great choice for 4WD. Be sure to get the correct adapter for the ZF5.
  3. Adapter Plate:

    • An adapter plate will be required to connect the ZF5 to the NP208. These can often be found from specialty suppliers or online.
  4. Transmission Mount:

    • The ZF5 will require a different transmission mount, so be sure to grab one that fits.
  5. Driveshafts:

    • You may need to modify your existing driveshafts or get new ones to accommodate the different lengths and locations of the ZF5 and NP208.
  6. Clutch Assembly:

    • Since you’re moving to a manual transmission, a new clutch kit, flywheel, and associated hardware will be necessary.
  7. Pedal Assembly:

    • You’ll need a clutch pedal assembly, as the C6 is an automatic and the ZF5 is a manual.
  8. Wiring and Linkage:

    • Make sure to check the wiring harness for compatibility. You might need to do some modifications for the new transmission. Also, ensure that the shifter linkage will work with the ZF5.
  9. Crossmember:

    • You may need to modify or replace your existing crossmember to accommodate the new setup.

Tools Needed

  • Basic hand tools (sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers)
  • Transmission jack
  • Torque wrench
  • Engine hoist (optional, but helpful)

Step-by-Step Overview

  1. Preparation:

    • Disconnect the battery and remove the C6 transmission and transfer case. Make sure to drain fluids and disconnect any wiring.
  2. Install Clutch Components:

    • Install the clutch assembly and flywheel before the ZF5 is mounted.
  3. Mount the ZF5:

    • Position the ZF5 onto the engine and secure it with the appropriate bolts.
  4. Connect the NP208:

    • Attach the NP208 transfer case using the adapter plate you’ve sourced.
  5. Modify Driveshafts:

    • Adjust and install the driveshafts to ensure proper alignment.
  6. Install Pedal Assembly:

    • Install the clutch pedal assembly and modify the wiring harness as needed.
  7. Final Checks:

    • Ensure all connections are secure, and fill all fluids before starting the vehicle.

Tips

  • Documentation: Keep the service manuals handy for both the Bronco and the ZF5; they’ll help guide you through the swap.
  • Community Resources: For additional insights and experiences, check out the Bullnose Ford subreddit or forums like Gary’s Garagemahal to see if anyone else has tackled a similar swap.
  • Take Your Time: This swap can be quite involved, so take your time and double-check everything.

This is a comprehensive project, but with some patience and the right resources, you’ll have a Bronco that’s ready for any adventure! If you have any specific questions or need more details on a part of the process, feel free to ask!



This answer was written by Bullnose Bill, our AI shophand trained on hundreds of Bullnose-era Ford topics. He knows his way around old Ford Trucks.

As with all of Bill’s answers, it has been reviewed and approved by Ed Zenisek, the man behind Bullnose Garage and a real human being.

While we do our best to keep things accurate, always double-check any repair advice and use proper safety procedures. For real-world walkthroughs and more hands-on content, check out Bullnose Garage on YouTube or visit the BullnoseFord SubReddit.


As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.

ZF5 Transmission

Published on October 9, 2024

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Part of the Bullnose Era Transmissions series.

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Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And let me ask you a question: what’s the ultimate transmission for your old Ford truck? Something that will handle heavy loads, eat up the miles on the highway, but still give you that solid manual shifting experience that lets you know you’re driving a truck. The ZF5 transmission might just be the answer. It’s the heavy-duty overdrive gearbox that gave Ford trucks new life, and today we’re going to crack open everything you need to know about it. From finding one for your build to understanding what makes it appealing for a swap, we’re going to see if the ZF5 really is all it’s cracked up to be and why it’s still one of the most sought-after upgrades out there. Stick with me because we’ll also get real about why you might want to pass on it for options like the Mazda M5OD, TMIC TKO, or even the MV4500 from the other guys. By the end of this video, you’ll know exactly what you’re getting into.

Hello! Manufactured by ZF Friedrichshafen AG, the ZF5 is a 5-speed manual workhorse made for Ford trucks from the late ’80s through the late ’90s. The S542 was designed to replace the older four-speed gearboxes, offering better fuel efficiency and improved highway driving with its fifth gear. In the mid-1990s, the S547 came as an upgrade, increasing torque capacity from 420 lb-ft to 470 lb-ft. The ZF5 was built for heavy-duty stuff like towing and off-roading while providing a balance between low-end torque and cruising. The later S547, with its stronger internals, was better suited for powerful engines such as the big blocks or diesels, but both models are considered pretty heavy-duty.

So now let’s look at some key specifications for both versions of the ZF5. They were both a 5-speed manual with overdrive. Both had all forward gears synchronized for smoother shifting. The gear ratios between both are the same: first is 5.72 to 1, second is 2.94 to 1, third is 1.61 to 1, fourth is 1:1 or direct drive, fifth, which is overdrive, is 0.76 to 1, and reverse is 5.24 to 1. The case material is aluminum for strength, weight savings, and heat dissipation. It weighs right around 135 lb without fluid and it measures 26 1/2 in long, 16 1/2 in wide, and 17 in high. This compact size allows it to fit various Ford models in both 4×2 and 4×4 configurations. The transmission holds approximately 5 quarts, though this may vary slightly depending on the specific vehicle setup. It’s recommended to change the transmission fluid at every 30,000 to 50,000 miles under normal driving conditions. For trucks used in heavy-duty applications such as towing or off-roading, more frequent changes at every 20,000 to 30,000 miles isn’t a bad idea.

Now let’s talk about how the ZF5 feels to drive. One thing that sets it apart is its mechanical shift feel. If you’re used to a lighter-duty transmission, the shifts are a bit notchy, meaning there’s a more deliberate solid engagement as you change gears. That’s not necessarily a downside; it gives you a strong sense of connection to the truck, which many enthusiasts love. It’s a transmission that feels tough, though it requires a bit more effort to shift than a TREMEC TKO or an M5OD. The ZF5 transmission, which includes the ZFS 542 and S547 variants, has a typical 5-speed manual shift pattern, and here’s how the pattern is laid out: first gear is top left, second gear is bottom left, third gear is top middle, fourth gear is bottom middle, fifth gear, the overdrive gear, is top right, and reverse is bottom right. To engage reverse, you typically need to move the shifter to the far right and then down. Some versions of the transmission may require you to push down on the shifter or pull up on a collar to engage reverse, depending on the vehicle and the specific shifter setup.

Ford paired the ZF5 with multiple different engines. You’ve got the Windsor, the 5.0 L and 5.8 L, and you’ve got the 4.9 L 396. The big block pattern matches larger engines like the 7.5 L, which is the 460, and the diesel pattern is designed for the 7.3 L IDI Diesel and the 7.3 L Power Stroke diesel. Now let’s quickly talk about something else that’s crucial when considering the ZF5 transmission: whether or not it’s a 4×4 or a 4×2 version. They are not interchangeable. The 4×4 versions are designed to bolt to a transfer case and have a shorter output shaft, while the 4×2 versions are for two-wheel drive trucks featuring a longer output shaft and a different tail housing. So if you’re planning a swap, make sure you’re matching the transmission type to your truck’s drivetrain.

Between the three different bell housing patterns and the two different drivetrain configurations, there are six possible installation setups for a ZF5 transmission, so ensure you choose the right one if you’re doing a swap or buying a rebuilt unit. To simplify which Ford models came equipped with the ZF5, let’s look at this chart. It provides a full breakdown of every truck and van with the ZF5, the years they were available, and the bell housing patterns they used. It’ll help you pinpoint what you need to look for when hunting for one of these transmissions at a junkyard or a pick-a-part. As you can see, the ZF5 found its way into quite a few Ford models. First off, you notice the F250 and F350 are some of the main players here. If you’ve got a gas engine, these trucks are running ZF5 from ’87 to ’97 for the 250 and up to ’98 for the 350. They had the small block pattern for the earlier S542 models and the big block pattern with the S547 once it was introduced. When you jump over to the diesel trucks, the ZF5 was right there from the start, available with the 7.3 L IDI Diesel and later the Power Stroke model. So whether you’re working with an F250, F350, or even a bigger F450, you’ve got a solid spread from ’87 to ’98 for a diesel ZF5. For diesels, ZF5 trucks have the unique diesel bell housing pattern. The F-150 also occasionally came with the ZF5, particularly in the 5.0 L and 5.8 L engines, though it’s a bit of a rarer find and mostly in fleet trucks. If you’re thinking about the Bronco, it also had the small block ZF5 option, making it a great fit if you’re building a Bronco and you want that five-speed. Lastly, we can’t forget the E-Series vans, those E250s and E350s, which could come with a ZF5. They’re less common, but they did use the small block or diesel patterns depending on the engine under the hood.

If you’re planning a 4×4 build, you want to make sure that you think about transfer case compatibility with your ZF5. The two most common options are the BorgWarner BW1356 and the New Process NP205. The 1356 is a good choice for off-roading and it’s known for being lightweight and durable. The NP205, on the other hand, is a cast iron unit and considered nearly bulletproof. Each of these transfer cases bolts up to the ZF5 without major modifications, so long as you have a 4×4 compatible transmission. So it really comes down to the needs of your build and how you plan to use your truck.

Now let’s say you’re searching for a ZF5 in a salvage yard, swap meet, or online listing. How do you know you’re looking at? First, you look for the ZF logo cast on the side of the case; dead giveaway. Specific cast numbers can also confirm whether you’re looking at an S542 or an S547. Finally, and probably the easiest to see at a glance, check the case. It has a distinct crisscross rib design that makes it stand out from other transmissions.

So how much will a ZF5 cost you if you’re looking for one? As always, prices vary based on condition and location, but here’s a general idea: a used ZF5 transmission can run anywhere from $400 to $1,200 and sometimes higher depending on factors like mileage, configuration, and the variant you’re looking for. If you find one that’s been rebuilt or is in like-new condition, expect to pay more, anywhere from $1,200 on the low end to $2,500 on the higher end. If you’re looking to buy a rebuilt ZF5 from a reputable rebuilder, expect to pay between $1,500 and $3,000 depending on the level of work done, the rebuilder’s reputation, and whether they have done any performance upgrades that are included in the build. The bell housing pattern can also influence the price, and some are in high demand or can be harder to find.

But let’s say you find a deal on a ZF5 that needs a little bit of TLC. How much would it cost to rebuild it yourself? Well, rebuilding any transmission can be a big job, but if you’re hands-on and you’ve done some transmission rebuilds before, it’s possible with a DIY project. Parts and rebuild kits typically range from $400 to $600, with some kits including all the bearings, synchros, and seals. If your transmission requires more extensive work, like replacing damaged gears or shafts, costs can increase, potentially adding a few hundred in parts. Circling back around to the difficulty, if you’ve rebuilt manual transmissions before, the ZF5 isn’t too complex, but it does require precision and the right tools. A good shop press, snap ring pliers, and a bearing puller are all added to the app. For someone with solid mechanical skills, it’s a doable weekend project. However, if you’re newer to transmission work, you may want to consider having a professional handle it or guide you to the more intricate parts.

I would have somebody build it. As I’ve said before, the ZF5 is known for its durability, but like any mechanical thing, certainly transmissions, it has a few issues. Over time, you might experience shift fork wear, which when the forks guiding the gears wear down, causing poor shift quality. If it’s harder to shift into gear or you notice some sloppiness, worn shift forks are usually the culprit. Synchro wear is another issue, especially on second and third gears. Regular fluid changes can help extend the life of your ZF5, but if trouble arises, it might be time for a rebuild. And finally, listen for input shaft bearing noise. A whining or grinding sound under load could indicate a worn input shaft. Replacing it during a rebuild is a good idea to keep your ZF5 running smoothly and quietly. I mean, you know, unless you want to have a manual transmission.

Both the ZFS542 and S547 are pretty good right out of the gate as far as upgrades, but several aftermarket options are available to make it even better. For instance, upgrading to a heavy-duty clutch can improve the transmission’s ability to handle higher torque levels, particularly in the S547, which may be used in truly tough situations. You can also install a short throw shifter; this can reduce shift time and effort, making the transmission more responsive and enjoyable to drive. It takes away some of that truck feel but makes it a little bit more sporty, although it’s never going to be sporty. Finally, adding an external transmission cooler can manage heat in demanding situations and extend the life of your ZF5.

Okay, now for some comparisons. If you’re considering a ZF5 for a swap, don’t miss this. I’m going to quickly compare how the ZF5 stacks up against a few other options and see why you might choose one over the other. So I’m going to start with my situation; that’s the NP435. That’s what I have in mind. I’m thinking about going to a ZF5. It’s a four-speed manual with a low first granny gear; it’s around 6.68 to 1, makes it great for heavy-duty stuff like towing or off-roading. But without overdrive, it’s not ideal for highway driving or even going around town, and that’s where the ZF5’s fifth gear shines. Shift points on the ZF5 are also better space for overall drivability. That said, the NP435 is way less expensive than the ZF5, both as a used or rebuilt option, and its durability is legendary.

Now the T18 and T19 from BorgWarner are similar to the NP435. They’re both four speeds and they’re rugged and great for low-end work. The T18 has a granny low first gear around 6.32 to 1, but like the NP435, they lack an overdrive, so they fall short on fuel efficiency and drivability compared to the ZF5. Maybe the closest comparison is the M5OD. It’s a lighter-duty 5-speed used in Ford trucks from the late ’80s to the early 2000s. While it’s compact and great for light-duty applications, it doesn’t really handle high torque like the ZF5 does. That makes it less suitable for heavy hauling and off-roading or performance. It’s easier to find and less expensive, though, so if you don’t need the high torque capability of the ZF5, it’s probably a good option.

Now let’s touch on the NV4500. That’s the New Venture Gear. It’s a strong competitor with a low first gear and fifth gear overdrive, but it’s often seen in GM and Dodge trucks. It’s comparable to the ZF5 in durability and versatility, but it requires a custom adapter to fit a Ford engine, which increases cost and complexity, and it’s also not a Ford option. So if that’s important to you, an NV4500 might not be the best choice.

So the TREMEC TKO 600, it’s a performance-oriented 5-speed. It’s ideal for muscle truck builds where street feel and smooth shifting matter the most. However, it’s often more expensive by a fair bit than the ZF5, and its gear ratios are geared more toward performance driving than towing or off-roading. But if you’re looking for the meanest street/strip transmission and cost isn’t a concern, this is probably your go-to. If, however, you want your truck to feel like a truck, then you should stick with the ZF5.

And finally, we’ve got the TREMEC TR4050. It’s a modern option. The TR4050 offers a synchronized reverse and newer tech, but at $4,000 to $5,000, it’s a big investment. If you want a modern transmission with heavy-duty capabilities and you have the budget, it’s a strong choice. But the ZF5 is way more cost-effective and it’s way easier to find.

Okay, so let’s bring it all together and wrap it up. When it comes to finding the right transmission for your truck, the ZF5 has a lot going for it. It balances durability, versatility, and affordability for the most part, making it a top choice for Ford truck swaps. With five speeds, including that crucial overdrive gear, the ZF5 is an ideal transmission for those needing both low-end workhorse torque and want to cruise smoothly on the highway. One of the ZF5’s major advantages is its flexibility in configuration. There are six different mounting options when considering the three bell housing patterns: small block, big block, and diesel, and the two drivetrain configurations: 4×2 and 4×4. This makes the ZF5 a versatile choice for a range of builds, and it fits all those engines like the Windsor, the big blocks, and the IDI diesel. If you’re building a truck and need a tough, reliable manual transmission, odds are there’s a ZF5 that’ll bolt right up if it’s a Ford truck and as long as you can find it.

As I said before, for my own project, I’m strongly considering a ZF5 because it can handle the torque of a four-way stroker while not bringing an RPM that isn’t screaming on the highway. That said, the TKO600 has been on my radar too, whispering in my ear, mostly because of the street feel and the reputation it has for smoother shifts. It’s a choice that comes down to price and what kind of driving experience you want. The ZF5 will give you the toughness and reliability I’m looking for, and it’s generally easier to find and cheaper to rebuild. But if performance and that crisp street feel are top priorities, the TKO600 is a strong contender, even if it does cost a bit more. I’m still undecided, to be honest. You know, I like the idea of the nice, you know, that a truck is a truck and should shift like a truck, but man, that street/strip Windsor engine is kind of calling my name. Let me know in the comments what you think.

So that’s it, guys. Everything that I know or pretend to know about the ZF Friedrichshafen. But I like ZF. And that’s it, guys. That’s everything that I know or pretend to know about the Friedrichshafen ZF5, S542, and S547 5-speed manual transmissions with overdrive. Guys, as I always ask, if you learned something today, you found the content interesting, give me a like, give me a subscribe, go grab a cool hat, help me out. I really appreciate it. As always, thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time. Take her away, getting things to shine that she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We’ll see you next time.

Hey folks, Ed here from Bullnose Garage. Today, we’re diving into the ZF5 transmission, the 5-speed manual gearbox that might just be the perfect fit for your Ford truck. From the late ’80s to the late ’90s, these transmissions were the workhorses that helped Ford trucks tackle everything from daily drives to heavy towing. Whether you’re considering a swap or a rebuild, you’re about to get the inside scoop.

ZF5 Transmission Overview

Manufactured by ZF Friedrichshafen AG, the ZF5 transmission came in two main versions: the S5-42 and the S5-47. The S5-42 was the original model, offering up to 420 lb-ft of torque, while the S5-47 came later with a beefier 470 lb-ft torque capacity. Both models are known for their durability, making them a popular choice for Ford enthusiasts looking to upgrade from older four-speed gearboxes.

Specifications

The ZF5 is a 5-speed manual transmission with overdrive, all forward gears synchronized for smoother shifting. Here are the gear ratios for both versions:

  • First: 5.72:1
  • Second: 2.94:1
  • Third: 1.61:1
  • Fourth: 1:1 (Direct Drive)
  • Fifth: 0.76:1 (Overdrive)
  • Reverse: 5.24:1

Made of aluminum for strength and heat dissipation, it weighs about 135 pounds without fluid. This compact design makes it fit well in various Ford models, whether you’re dealing with a 4×2 or a 4×4 setup.

Driving Experience

Driving a ZF5 is all about the mechanical shift feel. If you’re accustomed to lighter-duty transmissions, get ready for a more deliberate gear engagement. Sure, it might require a bit more effort than something like a TREMEC TKO, but that notchiness gives you a real sense of connection to your truck.

Compatibility and Options

When it comes to engine compatibility, the ZF5 pairs with a range of Ford engines, including the Windsor 5.0L and 5.8L, the big block 7.5L, and even the 7.3L Power Stroke diesel. Note that the 4×4 and 4×2 versions are not interchangeable due to differences in output shafts and tail housings.

Choosing the Right Setup

With three different bell housing patterns (small block, big block, and diesel) and two drivetrain configurations (4×2 and 4×4), there are six possible setups for installing a ZF5. Make sure you pick the right one for your truck.

Identifying and Acquiring a ZF5

When hunting for a ZF5, look for the ZF logo on the side of the case and the distinct crisscross rib design. Prices can vary widely, with used transmissions ranging from $400 to $1,200, and rebuilt units going for $1,500 to $3,000.

Rebuilding Considerations

Rebuilding a ZF5 isn’t for the faint of heart but can be manageable with the right tools and experience. Parts and kits can run you around $400 to $600, but if you’re new to transmission work, consider having a professional handle the rebuild.

Common Issues and Upgrades

The ZF5 is known for its reliability, but like any transmission, it has its quirks. Worn shift forks and synchros are common issues, so keep an ear out for grinding noises that might indicate input shaft bearing wear.

For upgrades, consider a heavy-duty clutch for higher torque handling, a short throw shifter for quicker shifts, and an external transmission cooler to keep things running smoothly.

Comparing the ZF5 with Other Options

If you’re eyeing a ZF5 for a swap, here’s how it stacks up against other transmissions:

  • NP435: Great for off-roading but lacks overdrive.
  • M5OD: Compact and less expensive but not as robust.
  • NV4500: Comparable in durability but needs a custom adapter for Ford engines.
  • TREMEC TKO 600: More expensive with smoother shifts but less suited for towing.
  • TR4050: Modern but pricey.

Conclusion

The ZF5 transmission offers a solid balance of durability, versatility, and affordability, making it a top choice for Ford truck builds. Whether you’re after that tough manual shift feel or need a reliable gearbox for towing and highway cruising, the ZF5 has you covered. Let me know what you think in the comments, and if you’ve got any ZF5 stories, I’d love to hear them.

And as always, if you learned something today and want to support the channel, don’t forget to like, subscribe, and maybe snag yourself some Bullnose merch. Until next time, keep those trucks rolling!


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If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

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Bullnose Ford Lightning Round

Published on September 3, 2024

Click to play the video inline  or  see it on YouTube

Part of the The Bullnose F-150 series.
Part of the Ford Engines series.
Part of the Bullnose Era Transmissions series.
Part of the Ford Truck Systems and Parts series.

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Show Transcript

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. You know, when I first got my Bullnose and started looking around at some of the modifications I might want to do to it, there are so many options out there that I wasn’t even sure how to begin wrapping my head around them all. You’ve got all kinds of different engine options, transmission options, axle options, modification options. It can get really overwhelming. So I think what I’d like to do today is sort of a 50,000 foot view lightning round of all the different engines and transmissions that either came with a Bullnose or can be easily swapped into a Bullnose to give you guys an idea of what some of the options are out there for your build. I’ll also talk about some of the axles, some of the other components, and some of the more common modifications that people make to Bullnose trucks to, uh, you know, make them better. So stay tuned and we’re going to do it.

All right, we’re going to start with engines in no particular order. Let’s start with the Ford 300 inline six or four part nine meter. This bulletproof straight six was available from 1980 to 1986. Known for its low end torque and durability, it’s a workhorse engine, perfect for heavy duty use, and it’s what I have in my truck right now. Then you’ve got the Ford 3.8 liter Essex V6. It was only available in 1982. The 3.8 liter Essex V6 is a compact engine with moderate power typically found in the F100. It’s not as popular as the other options just because it doesn’t really have that much oomph. Next, you’ve got the Ford 255 V8 4.2 liter. It was offered from 1980 to 1982. This small V8 was aimed at better fuel economy, but it’s often considered underpowered compared to the other V8s. Now we’ve got the Ford 289 V8 4.7 liter. While not originally stocked in Bullnose trucks, 289 is a popular swap for those running a piece of Ford’s performance heritage in their build. And now we start getting into the bigger boys. This is the Ford 302 Windsor V8 5.0 liter. It’s a mainstay from 1980 to 1986. 302 Windsor is well loved for its balance of power, reliability, and widespread parts availability. You can find 302s everywhere in all kinds of vehicles. They’re really easy to get a hold of. And next we’ve got my personal favorite, the Ford 351 Windsor V8 5.8 liter. It was also available throughout the Bullnose years. And the 351 Windsor offers more torque and horsepower than the 302, making it a popular choice for towing and heavy duty tasks. It’s also the choice for my build in my truck.

Now we’ve got the Ford 351M or modified, the V8 5.8 liter. This engine was available from 1980 to 1982, mostly in trucks and heavy duty applications. It’s essentially a truck-tuned version of the 351 Cleveland. And that brings us to the Ford 351 Cleveland 5.8 liter. And this one didn’t come stock in Bullnose trucks, but it is a popular swap for those seeking high RPM power. The Cleveland’s large port heads make it a favorite for performance builds. It’s basically a performance 5.8 liter. Now we’re getting even bigger. Ford 400 V8 6.6 liter. It was available in the early Bullnose years. The 400 is similar to the 351M, but it’s got a longer stroke, so it offers more torque for heavy duty needs. And now we’ve got the big boy, the Ford 460 V8 7.5 liter. This big block 460 was available in Bullnose trucks from 1980 to 1986, typically the F250s and 350s. It offered massive torque and power, making it ideal for towing and heavy hauling. It’s also used for huge performance builds.

Now let’s move on to a couple of diesel engines. You’ve got the 6.9 liter IDI V8 diesel. It was introduced in 1983, and this international harvester diesel engine is known for its durability and efficiency. It offers serious pulling power for diesel enthusiasts. And then a step up from that is the 7.3 liter IDI V8 diesel. It was introduced in 1988, so it was not in stock Bullnose’s, but it is a popular swap for Bullnose trucks because it provides more displacement and power from the 6.9 liter with similar reliability. There you go. There’s the engines.

All right, moving on to transmissions. I’m going to start with a bit of a tease. That’s the BorgWarner tease, beginning with the T18. It’s a four-speed. It’s a heavy duty manual transmission available from 1980 to 1986. The T18 is known for its durability and low first gear, perfect for off-roading or heavy loads. Next is the BorgWarner T19. It’s also a four-speed, but it’s synchronized. It’s available in the same years as the T18, and the T19 offers synchronized gears, makes it a bit smoother in operation while retaining the T18’s toughness. Now we’ll move on to the new process NP435 four-speed. It’s another heavy duty four-speed manual known for its strength and ultra low first gear, also called Grande Gear. Available in Bullnose trucks throughout the early 80s, including 1985 because it’s in my truck.

Now we have the SR-OD. It’s a four-speed with overdrive. It’s a lighter duty transmission. It was available in Bullnose trucks during the early 80s. It offered the overdrive gear for a little better fuel efficiency while on the highway. Now you’ve got the T170FT. It’s a four-speed with overdrive. It’s basically the evolution of the top loader. It’s available in the early 80s, and this transmission was another overdrive option designed for light duty trucks, and it offered a smoother drive at higher speeds. Now we move on to the ZF5, the S542, and the S547. Both are five-speed heavy duty manual transmissions. The S542 was introduced in 1987, with the 47 following later. Both are popular swaps for Bullnose trucks, offering your overdrive gear and improved durability over older four-speeds, especially in diesel applications. And that’s where I’m going, not the diesel part, but I’m putting the ZF5 in my build.

Now we’ve got the ever-popular Mazda M5OD, the five-speed. It was not stock in Bullnose trucks, but it’s very common in some of the following years. It’s a common swap for those looking for a five-speed manual in a Bullnose. It’s got improved shift quality and overdrive for highway cruising. It’s a great transmission, but be careful if you swap it in because it’s not really built for a high horsepower application, because you might blow it up. Now we move on to the automatic transmissions. We’ve got a C6, which is a three-speed heavy duty trans. Available throughout the Bullnose years, the C6 is a robust three-speed automatic known for handling big power and towing heavy loads without breaking a sweat. Now we move on to the C4 three-speed. It was a lighter duty three-speed automatic. The C4 was available in earlier Bullnose models, offering a simpler and more compact alternative to the C6. Now we’ve got the AOD, the four-speed. It was introduced in 1980, and the AOD is a four-speed automatic with overdrive, designed for better fuel economy without sacrificing performance. And now a popular swap in, the E4OD, which is a four-speed automatic with overdrive. It was introduced in 1989, so it’s not part of the stock Bullnose lineup, but it is a popular upgrade for Bullnose trucks, especially with the C6 or AOD because it offers a stronger option with overdrive and better highway performance. The E4OD is what I have in my donor vehicle for my 251 Windsor.

Moving on to carburetors. You’ve got the Motorcraft 2150. It’s a popular two-barrel carb used throughout the Bullnose years, known for its reliability and ease of tuning. You’ve got the Motorcraft 4180C, the four-barrel carburetor, often found in the 5.0-liter and 5.8-liter engines. It offers better performance than the 2150 with improved fuel delivery. You get the Karner YFA. We use mainly on the 300 inline 6. The Karner YFA is a one-barrel carburetor that’s simple and reliable, perfect for the torquey six-cylinder.

Now let’s move on to suspension and axle systems. Two-wheel drive Bullnose trucks all got the twin I-beam suspension. It’s durable and offers a smooth ride, but it can be tricky to align and it definitely has its quirks. The four-wheel drive equivalent of that, the twin traction beam suspension, offered similar durability with the added complexity of four-wheel drive components. Along with those, you’ve got the Dana 44, which is a common front axle in four-wheel drive Bullnose trucks. The Dana 44 is known for its strength and ease of service. You also have the heavier Dana 50, found in heavier-duty models. The Dana 50 front axle offers increased strength for those needing more capability in their four-wheel drive trucks. Moving to the rear, we’re going to start with the Ford 7.5-inch. This rear axle was common in lighter-duty Bullnose trucks and Broncos. It offered adequate strength for fairly light-duty applications. Moving on from there, you can move into the Ford 8.8-inch. It’s a popular rear axle option. The 8.8-inch offers a good balance of strength and weight, making it ideal for most applications. And then, we move up to the 9-inch. Available with earlier models, the 9-inch rear axle is a legend in the off-road and racing world, known for its toughness and aftermarket support. The Dana 60, it’s the go-to for heavy-duty rear axles. It’s perfect for towing and off-road use, offering unmatched strength in the Bullnose lineup. The Dana 70 was found in some heavy-duty trucks. The Dana 70 offers even more strength than the Dana 60, and it’s ideal for the most demanding tasks. Moving on to the Sterling 10.25-inch. It’s a heavy-duty rear axle found in three, four-ton and one-ton trucks.

So now for the fun part. Let’s talk about some of the more popular mods and upgrades that you can do to your Ford Bullnose. I’m going to start with the Crown Vic Swap. It’s a popular front suspension swap. The Crown Vic Swap lowers the truck and improves handling with modern suspension geometry. Basically, you take a Crown Vic and you put the front suspension in your truck. The Saginaw Power Steering Pump Swap. Those whiny power steering pumps are a pain in the ass. This swap replaces the stock Ford power steering pump with a Saginaw offering improved reliability, easier steering and less noise. Rear Disc Brake Conversion. Upgrading to rear disc brakes improves stopping power and reduces maintenance compared to drum brakes, making it a popular swap. Front Bench Seat Replacement. Swapping the stock bench seat for bucket seats or a more modern bench can improve comfort and interior aesthetics. Tilt Steering. I’d love to have tilt steering in my truck. Adding tilt steering to a non-tilt truck can improve driving comfort and make getting in and out a little easier. Adding air conditioning. Adding AC to a non-AC Bullnose can be a challenge, but it can dramatically improve your comfort, especially in hot climates. Me, I live in New Mexico, so I made sure to buy one with AC from the factory because that’s a tough swap. Headlight Upgrade. Pretty simple. Upgrading to modern headlights such as LED or HID improves nighttime visibility and safety over the stock steel beams. Just make sure that you upgrade your wiring harness when you do it. Altimeter Upgrade. Swapping to a higher output altimeter is a must for trucks running additional electrical accessories like lights, winches or upgraded sound systems. And finally, the Borgeson Steering Shaft. This upgrade replaces the stock steering shaft with a Borgeson unit, improving steering feel and reducing play, especially on older trucks.

All right guys, there you go. There’s all the engines, transmissions, carburetors, axles and other miscellaneous mods that you can do to your Bullnose to make it better. But listen, I’m not perfect, so if I missed something, drop something in the comments and let me know. Guys, I hope you learned something from this video, and if you did, give me a like, email, subscribe. I really appreciate it. Hey, head to my merch store, grab a cool hat. Thanks again for watching guys, and we will see you next time.

Hey folks, welcome back to Bullnose Garage! Today, we’re diving into a whirlwind tour of engines, transmissions, and mods for the 1980-1986 Bullnose Ford trucks. Think of it as a lightning round where I skim through the essentials without drowning you in details. So, buckle up, and let’s hit the ground running.

Engines: The Heart of Your Bullnose

Let’s kick things off with engines. The Bullnose era offered quite a lineup, starting from the dependable Ford 300 Inline 6, known for its low-end torque and durability—perfect for those heavy-duty tasks. If you’re after something compact, the 3.8-liter Essex V6 might be your choice, but don’t expect it to win any power awards; it’s more of a footnote in the Bullnose history.

For those wanting a splash of Ford’s performance heritage, the Ford 289 V8 is a popular swap even though it wasn’t a stock option. If you need more muscle, the familiar 302 Windsor V8 or the beefier 351 Windsor V8 are crowd favorites, offering a good balance of power and reliability. Of course, if you’re the “go big or go home” type, then the Ford 460 V8 with its massive 7.5 liters of displacement is your go-to.

Diesel fans, don’t fret! The 6.9-liter IDI V8 diesel, introduced in 1983, offers a solid choice for those who love that diesel grunt.

Transmission Options: Shifting Gears

Moving on to transmissions, there’s a buffet of choices. The BorgWarner T18 and T19 are heavy-duty four-speeds known for their toughness. The NP435 is another robust option with an ultra-low first gear, making it a favorite for off-roading.

If you’re eyeing an upgrade, the ZF5 series offers a modern five-speed solution, especially popular for diesel applications. As for automatics, the C6 is your heavyweight champion, but the E4OD, although not stock, is a sought-after swap for improved highway performance.

Axles & Suspension: The Backbone

No build is complete without considering axles and suspension. The Dana 44 and Dana 60 axles cater to different strength needs, with the latter being the go-to for heavy-duty use. If you’re looking to enhance handling, a Crown Vic front suspension swap could be just the thing.

Popular Mods & Upgrades

Here’s where the fun really starts. From rear disc brake conversions that boost stopping power to Saginaw power steering pump swaps that silence those pesky whines, there’s no shortage of ways to improve your Bullnose.

Interior upgrades like swapping out the bench seat for buckets or adding modern conveniences like air conditioning can dramatically change your driving experience. And don’t forget about those LED headlight upgrades for better night visibility.

Wrapping It Up

So there you have it, a whirlwind tour of what you can do under the hood and around your Bullnose. If I missed anything or if you’ve got a mod you’re passionate about, drop it in the comments. I’d love to hear from you.

Remember, this is just scratching the surface. For more in-depth dives into any of these topics, keep an eye on the channel. If you found this helpful, a like and subscribe go a long way. And hey, why not swing by the merch store and grab a hat to show off your Bullnose pride?

Thanks for hanging out, and I’ll catch you in the next video!


Bullnose Garage at YouTube

If you want more specific information on Bullnose Ford Trucks, check out my YouTube Channel!

For more information on Bullnose Fords, you can check out the BullnoseFord SubReddit or Gary’s Garagemahal. Both are excellent resources.

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you see an Amazon link on my site, purchasing the item from Amazon using that link helps out the Channel.