Archives February 2025

You know, my old grandpa always used to say, always use the right tool for the job. Ain’t nobody got time for that. I say use whatever works. Rock tool for the job. Okay, Boomer.

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And don’t, don’t be that guy. If you’ve ever tried removing a harmonic balancer with a chisel or peeling off a gasket with a butter knife, you’re in the right place. Today, we’ll talk about the real tools that you need to break an engine down and put it back together without breaking your knuckles or your spirit. Sure, buying the right stuff might cost a bit more up front, but trust me, it’ll save your hairline and your sanity in the long run. So stick around, and by the end of this video, you’ll have a rock solid grasp of which tools truly matter, which ones you could probably live without, and which ones belong in the hands of a professional machine shop. Oh, uh, sorry, the anemometer and rubber chickens are for a different video.

Hello! All right, let’s get right into it with a couple of the big and obvious ones. First off, the engine hoist. F.S. sites say engine tear down like a V8 or inline 6 dangling midair on a sturdy chain in your garage. If you’re pulling the block out of your car or truck, this tool is a no-brainer. Perfect 10 out of 10 on the must-have scale. Some call it a cherry picker, but whatever you decide to call it, it’s all about heavy lifting without wrecking your back or your garage floor. Basic models run between $100 and $150, great for lighter engines or occasional use. For larger engines or frequent jobs, heavy-duty hydraulic hoists cost uh, $200 to $400. Brands like Torin or this Pittsburgh here from Harbor Freight offer reliable options that balance quality and price. You know, mechanics once rigged rope and pulley setups in barn rafters for engine lifts. Thankfully, we got hydraulics on our side today. Just make sure your hoist has the capacity for your engine and your lifting points are solid. Nobody wants a swan diving engine mid-tear down. Look for features like adjustable booms and stainless steel hooks. Uh, they make tear downs smoother and safer. Additionally, a $40 load leveler is a must for uh, big lifts. Also consider portability. Welded or folding booms make storage much easier. Prices vary with these features, so think about what you need most in your setup before you buy.

Next up, the engine stand. Once your engine’s hoisted, you need a solid perch to tear it down. An engine stand is like a mechanical easel, letting you rotate the block to access every single nook and cranny. This gets a 9 out of 10. It’s crucial for a rebuild. After all, you’re not holding that block in your lap. Basic engine stands run between $50 and $100, fine for lighter engines or tight budgets. For bigger blocks or frequent use, heavy-duty models range from $150 to $250. A folding four-point stand like this $2 Pittsburgh model here uh, beats a three-point design for stability and folds for easier storage. Engine stands offer various mounting patterns or even adjustable mounts, uh, like this one to fit different blocks. Match the stand to your engine’s mounting points to avoid compatibility issues. Look for features like adjustable clamps, uh, 360° rotation, and foldable bases to keep things stable while you work. One common mistake with engine stands is mismatching your stand, your engine’s weight, or mounting pattern. A flimsy stand risks an expensive, painful mess. Check your weight capacity and compatibility before buying, and also ensure that the stand is balanced and secure to avoid accidents during a rebuild.

All right, next up we have a silicone tool tray set. Now this might not be the flash tool, but it’s key for keeping nuts, bolts, and tiny doodads organized during a tear down. It’s a 5 out of 10. Not critical, but it’ll save you headaches and time hunting for that elusive bolt. The basic sets run from $15 to $30, great for smaller projects, and for more compartments and better heat resistance, expect to spend $40 to $60. Silicone trays offer flexibility, non-slip grip, and easy cleaning. Just rinse them off, and they’re ready for the next job. They stay put wherever you put them, whether it’s on a cold engine block or something warmer. You know, alternatives like magnetic work trays are okay for ferrous hardware, and even a plastic lunch container can do it in a pinch. The silicone trays win, uh, they’re heat resistant and won’t scratch painted surfaces. They handle extreme heat, so if you accidentally set it on a really hot manifold, you don’t have to worry about it. And bonus, they double as pet food bowls. Just make sure you wash them first.

Next up is an oil drip mat or tray. It’s an unsung hero for keeping your garage all slick-free. It’s a 4 out of 10. You can skip it if you’re outside or you don’t mind a mess, but in a proper garage setup, it’s really a sanity saver, and it might even save your relationship. Oil drip mats come in various sizes and materials. Uh, basic rubber or PVC match up between $20 and $40, while heavy-duty options, uh, like bigger trays or ones that have raised edges or layered designs cost between $50 and $100. Cheaper mats may not last with frequent heavy spills, so spending more up front on a volume mat can save money and hassle long term. You know, pros use similar mats or large drip pans to stay tidy and safe. A clean floor not only looks better but prevents slips and trips. An organized workspace makes tear downs more efficient. Focus on the job, not the mess.

Next up is a harmonic balancer puller. For full engine tear down, you likely need to remove the balancer and excess timing components. This tool gets us 7 out of 10. A three-jaw puller can work in a pinch, but a dedicated balancer puller saves you hassle and prevents damage. It also works as a steering wheel puller and handles some other automotive pulleys. The harmonic balancer absorbs engine vibrations. Its critical role early engineers found crankshafts without dampers often snapped under stress, causing catastrophic failure. So it’s not just a fancy pulley; it keeps your engine smooth and quiet. Balancer pullers like this one range from $30 to $80 depending on quality and the included adapters. Basic sets suit smaller engines or occasional use, while comprehensive kits with multiple adapters can top $100. Sometimes a three-jaw puller works in a pinch, like I said, but it risks cracking or warping the balancer. If you’re doing multiple rebuilds or tackling different engines, invest in a dedicated puller and never use a chisel.

And speaking of three-jaw pullers, that’s next on our list. While a harmonic balancer puller is job-specific, a three-jaw puller is a versatile go-to for tasks like pulling stubborn pulley gears or even steering racks. This gets a 5 out of 10. It’s not critical for an engine rebuild if you’ve got specialized tools especially, but it is a handy backup for unexpected tasks. Three-jaw pullers start uh, between $15 and $30. More durable models with better grips and higher capacity can run between $40 and $80. The three-jaw puller has a long legacy. Blacksmiths and millers used similar designs on steam engines, making you part of a centuries-old tradition. Slipping or marring surfaces is a common issue with the jaws, so ensure a firm, even grip before cranking and use penetrating oil to loosen the stubborn parts. Patience is key; rushing risks damage.

Next up is a carbide scraper. Uh, when stripping gasket sealant or stubborn carbon, this tool is your best friend. This gets a 6 out of 10. Big upgrade from the chisel and butter knife. It’s not essential for occasional maintenance, but for serious rebuilds, it saves frustration and ensures precision. Carbide scrapers come in various shapes and sizes. Basic handheld models like this one here run between $10 and $20. For heavy-duty jobs, multi-tool scrapers or sets with versatile blade shapes cost between $25 and $50. These tools are incredibly durable, staying sharp for longer than steel. Less sharpening, more working. Some models even offer replaceable blades, saving you from buying new tools. Carbide’s toughness and heat resistance make it a go-to for industrial metal aids. If it handles that stress, baked-on gaskets, that’s no problem. Scraping too aggressively with a carbide scraper can gouge metal surfaces, so use a light touch, keep a consistent angle, and make gentle passes to avoid damage.

Meet plastic gauge, a simple but vital tool for engine assembly. When rebuilding an engine, checking bearing clearances is critical for longevity and smooth operation. Plastic gauge makes it easy. Place a waxy strip between the bearing and the journal, torque down to spec, and measure the squished strip to check clearance. This earns an 8 out of 10. Accurate bearing clearance is non-negotiable for a reliable engine build. Plastic gauge is simple, but it comes in variations. Different colors measure specific tolerances. Green and red are most useful for most builds. Packs of single-use strips cost between $10 to $20 and last several projects, while larger kits range from $25 to $40. Plastic gauge is simple to use: just place, torque, and measure. But for accurate results, ensure both surfaces are spotless, as dirt or debris can skew your measurements. Remember, plastic gauge is single-use, so handle it carefully to avoid waste. Since the ’40s, plastic gauge has revolutionized bearing clearance checks. Before it, mechanics relied on cumbersome, less accurate methods. This simple strip brought precision to hobbyists and pros alike. One common mistake with this stuff is just taking inaccurate measurements. Follow the instructions, apply the strip evenly, torque to spec, and measure precisely. Rushing can lead to misleading readings and compromise engine performance.

Next up is a set of feeler gauges. Whether you’re setting valve lash, checking spark plug gaps, or verifying type tolerances, this tool is a must-have. This gets a 7 out of 10. It’s not an everyday tool, but crucial for precise measurements that ensure engine performance and longevity. A good set prevents misfires and uneven wear. Basic sets with 10 to 20 strips cost between $10 and $25. It’s great for hobbyists. Larger sets with 50-plus strips or digital options range from $30 bucks to $60 bucks. Slip gauges date back to the late 1800s, but car enthusiasts adopted them for spark plugs and valve clearance checks. Quality feeler gauges are precise and durable. Stainless or high-carbon steel resists bending and wear. Some advanced sets include color coding or label thicknesses for a quicker selection. A common pitfall with these is bending them or mixing up the strips. Dirty or warped gauges can lead to incorrect measurements and engine issues, so handle them carefully, store them properly, and inspect each strip before you use it.

Next up, we have a dial bore gauge. For serious engine rebuilders, it’s essential for measuring the cylinder or bearing bores accurately. This earns a 9 out of 10. Skipping it risks building an engine with out-of-spec cylinders, leading to poor compression or excessive wear. Precision here is the difference between reliable performance and constant headaches. Dial indicators trace back to 19th-century clock making, where precision tools for watch gears found a new life measuring engine cylinders. Dial bore gauges come in various styles. Basic single dial models run between $40 to $100, and for more versatility, dual dial or digital gauges can cost between $100 and $200. Advanced models feature adjustable bases and magnified dials for easier reading, and height space calibration kits ensure accuracy over multiple projects. Compact designs with protective cases add portability and durability. Calibration with these is a common pitfall. Always zero the gauge with a known standard before you use it, and measure straight across the bore, not at an angle to avoid distorted readings. Clean and store the gauge properly to maintain accuracy and extend its life.

Next up, straight edge, which I can warpage on cylinder heads or surfaces. This tool is indispensable. This one earns a 6 out of 10. It’s not as critical as an engine hoist or a torque wrench, but…

It’s essential for ensuring flat components and a smooth rebuild. Aluminum straight edges like this one here are lightweight, rust resistant, and less fatiguing for frequent use. They’re ideal for tight spaces. They’re also cheaper, but they can dent or scratch more easily, uh, which can affect the precision. Aluminum’s lower rigidity may limit its accuracy for really precise measurements. Steel straight edges are rigid and durable, perfect for precise measurements and larger components where even very slight warping matters. However, they’re much heavier, they’re harder to handle in tight spaces, and they’re prone to rust if you don’t maintain them right. Prices for these vary. Aluminum straight edges run between 10 and 50 bucks, while steel models cost between 15 and 60 bucks. Dropping or dinging a straight edge, especially steel ones, can ruin their precision, so make sure you handle them carefully, keep them clean to avoid false readings, and store them properly. Look for smooth edges, precise markings, and protective coatings to ensure accuracy and durability. You know, the pros use granite slabs for unparalleled accuracy, but for us mortals, a straight edge is going to work just fine.

Next up, we’ve got a magnetic base dial indicator. This tool is a must for serious rebuilders measuring crankshaft end play, camshaft runout, and other precise movements. It earns a six out of ten. It’s not as critical as an engine hoist or torque wrench, but it’s vital for precise component movement. The magnetic base keeps the dial indicator steady, letting you move components and measure without, uh, constant repositioning. Basic models like this one here cost between 30 to 60 bucks, while more precise, durable options can run between 70 to 150. One thing you want to look for is making sure that you, uh, secure the base on a clean surface to always get a good accurate reading. Always clean and degrease everything first. Also, like with bore gauges, you gotta zero the gauge before you start measuring.

Next, we’ve got a vacuum pressure gauge kit. Now, this kit is essential for a basic teardown, but it’s invaluable for diagnosing leaks or checking seals post-rebuild. This turns a five out of ten. It’s not a must for every rebuild, but it can save you from frustrating troubleshooting by measuring vacuum levels accurately. Basic kits like this one with a single gauge and just some adapters cost between 20 and 40 bucks. It’s great for beginners or tight budgets. Comprehensive kits with multiple gauges, adapters, and digital displays can range from 50 to 100. A good vacuum gauge kit detects leaks and verifies engine seal integrity. Accessories like hoses and fittings make connecting to engine ports much easier. Folks that are new to this can feel overwhelmed by all the readings, so learn your engine’s normal vacuum range before testing. This helps spot leaks or deviations quickly.

Next up is a vacuum leakdown tester. Now, this isn’t the same thing as the vacuum pressure gauge kit, but it is a cousin. It’s indispensable for deep engine diagnostics post-rebuild. This earns a seven out of ten. Not an everyday tool, but it’s crucial for checking valves, piston rings, and cylinder seals to ensure smooth, efficient operation. Vacuum leakdown tests originated in aviation, where pilots tested for even the smallest leaks to ensure engine reliability at altitude. This precision approach eventually found its way into automotive diagnostics, and that enhances engine rebuild reliability. Uh, kits like this, uh, generally go between 50 and 100, and advanced kits with more digital readouts or, yeah, fancy test ports run between 150 to 300. Look for models with digital displays for easier reading and multiple adapters for various different types of engines. Advanced kits with built-in pumps or integrated gauges can streamline testing and ensure your compressor provides consistent pressure. Weak compressors can skew the readings and the diagnostics.

Next up is a mini spring tester. First-time builders might overlook this tool, but it’s handy for spotting weak or mismatched valve springs. This turns a four out of ten. It’s not essential for every rebuild, but measuring seat and open pressure offers insights into your valve train’s balance and prevents valve float, especially at high RPMs. Many spring testers are straightforward and affordable, and drag racers often test and swap valve springs mid-season to prevent valve float and push their engines to the limit. This cheap insurance enhances performance and extends engine life by keeping the valve train balanced under extreme conditions. Common issues with these include incorrect setup or measuring at the wrong heights, which can skew your results. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and measure precisely. If you’re working with a brand new matched set of springs, then you might not need this tool since brand new matched sets of springs are supposed to be matched and designed to work together harmoniously right out of the box. But it might be worth checking them anyway, especially if you’ve got a few thousand going into your build. It’s kind of cheap insurance.

Next up, valve spring compressor. This tool is crucial for removing and installing valve springs during a teardown or a rebuild. This earns an eight out of ten. Well, it’s not as universally essential as an engine hoist or a torque wrench, it’s indispensable for safely handling valve springs. Cat clamp style compressors like this one are widely available. Basic models cost between 20 and 40 bucks. It’s great for smaller engines or occasional use. For larger engines or frequent jobs, robust models priced 50 to 80 bucks offer better durability and ease of use. These tools adapt to various spring sizes, but maneuvering in tight cylinder head pockets can be tricky. Shade tree mechanics want to use sockets and clamps to compress springs. It’s cumbersome and way less safe. Modern cat clamp compressors are safer, more efficient, and prevent parts from flying across your garage. A common issue with these is slipping off the retainer, which can send keepers flying, so always secure the compressor properly before you tighten it down and apply gradual pressure to avoid slip-ups.

Next up is a piston ring filer. For engines with new rings, this tool is essential for ensuring everything is up to spec. This turns a seven out of ten. Not a top priority, the precise gap filing significantly boosts engine performance and longevity. Basic handheld models like this one here cost 20 to 25 bucks. More durable models with adjustable features for different ring sizes can run between 30 and 60. Choose a model with a stable grip for consistent, accurate filing. Failing to engage sometimes can, uh, help verify the end gap as you work, avoiding constant stops to measure. Hand filing rings with a small file used to mean guessing angles and hoping for the best. Well, you can still do that, I’d recommend against it. Precision piston ring filers eliminate the guesswork, improving reliability, performance, and consistency in modern engine builds. Avoid removing too much material or filing at the wrong angle, which can harm compression and increase wear. File gradually, measure frequently, and maintain consistency to prevent uneven gaps.

Up next, piston ring pliers. Never snap a ring trying to do it by hand. Piston ring pliers prevent that heartbreak. This runs a six out of ten. Not as critical as an engine hoist or torque wrench, but it does make installing piston rings smoother and less stressful. Piston ring pliers haven’t changed much in decades. They still use the same scissor action as they always have. Basic manual models can cost between 10 and 20 bucks, while more robust options with adjustable jaws or locking mechanisms can range from 25 to 40. Advanced pliers with locking mechanisms maintain expansion without manual pressure, which makes multiple ring installations easier and less tiring. Avoid yanking too hard, especially if you’re new to the tool. Overzealous handling can bend or crack rings, which causes delays and engine issues. Let the pliers do the work, apply steady pressure, and stay within the ring’s natural flex. Take your time to ensure each ring is installed correctly.

Up next, we have a ring compressor, specifically the band style type popular among engine builders. This turns an eight out of ten. It’s essential for safely installing piston rings without damaging them or the cylinder walls. Ring compressors come in two types. Basically, you got the band style and then there’s a tapered sleeve. These band style compressors are universal and versatile, and they cost between 15 to 40 bucks. Tapered sleeves, which are favored in speed and race shops, are more specialized and they cost between 50 to 100 dollars or more. Tapered compressors are common in race shops for speed, but adjustable band compressors are the go-to for enthusiasts. Their flexibility suits various engine types, making high-quality rebuilding accessible to just about everybody. Band style compressors clamp around the piston, letting you gently tap it into the bore while protecting the rings. Look for adjustable bands, secure locking mechanisms, and features like protective coatings or rubber grips to prevent cylinder wall scratches. One common mistake with these is not snugging the compressor enough, which can cause a ring to pop out and scratch a cylinder wall. That’s a bad day. Secure the compressor tightly, double-check the ring orientation, and use steady taps to maintain control. Precision and patience are key to successful installation.

Next up is a torque wrench, easily one of the most essential tools in your engine rebuild arsenal. I’m giving this a perfect ten out of ten because tightening fasteners to the proper specs is critical for engine integrity and performance. Whether you’re working on rod bolts, main caps, or cylinder heads, a reliable torque wrench ensures precision and prevents catastrophic failures. There are a few different types to consider, each with its own strengths. Beam torque wrenches are simple, affordable, and durable. They use a pointer and a scale to show torque, but they require careful reading and can be less precise at higher levels. Click wrenches like this one here are popular because they’re accurate and easy to use. You hear a distinct click when you hit the right torque, so there’s no need to keep an eye on the scale. Digital torque wrenches go a step further with features like LCD displays, memory storage, and even Bluetooth tracking. They’re precise and convenient, making them a favorite if you want tech in your toolbox. Finally, my personal favorite, split beam wrenches combine the durability of beam wrenches with the accuracy of a click wrench. They’re built to handle heavy use, making them perfect for serious rebuilders. Pricing varies depending on the type. Beam wrenches are the most budget-friendly at 15 bucks to 40 bucks. Click wrenches run between 30 to 100 bucks, while digital wrenches start at 70 and can exceed 200. Each split beam wrench typically costs 50 to 150 and offers excellent durability and precision. When choosing a torque wrench, accuracy and reliability are key. One thing to avoid is using your torque wrench as a breaker bar. It’s a surefire way to damage the internal mechanism. And don’t skip calibration. Frequent use can throw off accuracy, so calibrate it regularly and store it appropriately in its case. A well-maintained torque wrench is a tool you can trust for years, and your engine will thank you for it.

And next, we have a torque angle gauge, a tool essential for torque-to-yield bolts that need precise torque and angle measurements. This earns a seven out of ten. Not an everyday tool, but crucial for ensuring engine integrity and longevity with torque-to-yield fasteners. Modern engines, especially those with aluminum cylinder heads like the high-performance kind, rely on torque-to-yield fasteners for uniform clamping forces and effective sealing. A torque angle gauge ensures precise tightening, preventing gasket blowouts and boosting engine reliability and performance. A basic torque angle gauge like this one here is 20 to 40 bucks. They provide simple…

Easy to read measurements. Advanced models priced $50 to $100 may include digital displays, memory functions, and locking mechanisms for added precision and durability. Misalignment is an issue with torque angle gauges; it leads to inaccurate readings and improper tightening. So, to avoid this, make sure you keep the gauge secure and aligned, and read the instructions carefully. Practice on a few bolts before working on critical components.

Next up, assembly lube. Think of it as the icing on your engine’s cake. But instead of just making things look good, it prevents metal-on-metal contact during that critical first startup. This earns an 8 out of 10. It’s not a daily tool, but it’s essential for smooth engine break-in and long-term reliability. Assembly lube provides a protective coating during startup before that sweet, sweet engine oil takes over. It prevents wear when components are most vulnerable without attracting excess dirt or debris. Basic assembly lube costs $5 to $15, making it an affordable insurance policy. Premium formulations for high-performance engines can run $15 to $25 and offer a little bit of enhanced protection. Early racers used to use gear oil or even STP additives to make shifts to 7 with lubes, but they lack the protection of modern blends like this Permatex Ultra Slick here. Today’s lubes are engineered for optimal engine break-in and enhanced performance reliability without the guesswork.

Common mistakes include using too much or too little of this stuff. Excess lube can attract dirt and cause sludge, while too little, I mean, it leads to more friction and wear. So, apply a thin, consistent layer and avoid mixing this with the lubricants that can reduce the effectiveness of it. Just follow the directions and, you know, ensure a proper application.

Up next, we have thread sealing with PTFE. This is for threaded fittings that might leak oil or coolant. Thread sealant in those cases is your best friend. This turns in a 6 out of 10. It’s not as frequently used as other tools, but it’s invaluable for leak-free connections. PTFE, which is the same material that makes non-stick pans slippery, creates a reliable barrier against leaks while allowing components to be easily disassembled. Standard tubes of this stuff are between $5 and $10, making it an affordable addition to your cool kit. PTFE particles provide excellent sealing without clamping, and they resist oil, coolant, transmission fluids, that kind of stuff. It’s a non-hardening formula that ensures easy disassembly during maintenance too. Avoid using thread sealing on sensors or plastic fittings where it’s not recommended. Over-application can cause excess to squeeze out, which potentially clogs passages. So, uh, watch that. Clean and dry threads before applying a very thin, even layer to all the male threads. Assemble by hand to ensure proper engagement before tightening, and always check the manufacturer’s guidelines for proper compatibility.

So, that covers all the tools I’ll be using during my rebuild, but there are a few other tools you might want to consider. Depending on the nature of your build or how much of your own work you want to do, you might want to consider a ridge reamer designed to remove the ridge that forms at the top of the cylinder over time. If you’re refreshing an engine and reusing the bore size, a ridge reamer is essential for shaving the ridge and safely removing pistons. However, if you’re sending the engine to a machine shop for an overbore or any other work, they can handle this step. It makes the ridge reamer optional for DIY enthusiasts. Basic ridge reamers cost between $20 and $50, acceptable for hobbyists, while precision models for specialized applications range from $50 to $100. A good ridge reamer provides a smooth, consistent finish without removing excessive material. Look for models with precision ground blades and adjustable guides for accurate material removal. Advanced options may also include interchangeable blades or variable depth settings for added versatility.

A common mistake with a ridge reamer is just removing too much material or using the tool wrong, as it can damage your cylinder walls. Follow the manufacturer instructions, shave small amounts at a time, and check progress frequently. Proper alignment and even pressure are crucial to prevent damage.

Next up, cylinder hone. It’s available in ball or stone varieties. This tool de-glazes cylinder walls and creates the crosshatch pattern that helps piston rings seat correctly. While it’s a valuable addition, engines needing an overbore or high-performance honing are best left to a machine shop. A proper crosshatch distributes oil evenly, ensures ring break-in, and prevents leaks, reduces wear, and improves performance over time. Ball hones, priced between $20 and $50, are user-friendly and great for beginners. Stone hones at $52 or more provide greater precision and control, making them ideal for high-performance applications. A good hone creates a consistent crosshatch without removing too much material. Look for adjustable grit sizes or ergonomic handles and features like guide rails for even pressure and alignment. Be careful here, ’cause over-honing can create taper in a cylinder, which is a common mistake. Avoid removing too much material by making quick passes and checking your progress often. Gotta maintain the correct angle and pressure, and if you’re unsure, consult a professional or follow a detailed guide.

Next up is a freeze plug installer. This tool helps you drive plugs into your engine block without damage or misalignment. Now, it’s not essential; a freeze plug installer makes installation smoother and more precise, especially when you’re placing multiple plugs. You can also use a properly sized socket or leave the task to a machine shop if the engine’s being prepped. Freeze plugs, or core plugs, are leftover holes from the sand casting process used to create engine blocks. Though often called freeze plugs, their main purpose is to drain casting material, not to pop out during freezing. Manual freeze plug installers, priced between $10 and $25, are simple and pretty affordable. You place the plug in the tool and just tap it in with a hammer for straight, even installation. They make hydraulic models, which cost between $30 and $60, and they offer more controlled force for greater precision and reduce the risk of damage. It’s a common issue, and it can lead to leaks, so double-check your alignment and use steady taps to drive it in straight. Avoid excessive force, which can bend or crack the plug, or do like I’m going to do, which is just take it to the machine shop.

Next up is a thread chaser kit. This tool cleans bolt holes before reassembly, removes debris that can cause false torque readings. While a tap and die set does work, taps are aggressive, and they might remove metal if they’re used incorrectly. Basic thread chaser kits cost between $15 and $30 and include chasers for various size threads. Premium kits, priced between $35 and $60, offer high-quality materials, ergonomic handles, and even more size options for precise cleaning. Make sure to avoid cross-threading by properly lining the chaser and apply even pressure. Take your time to prevent over-chasing, which can strip the threads and compromise their integrity. Like me, if you prefer not to invest in a kit, that’s fine; a machine shop can usually handle this. Professional-grade thread cleaning on a budget, taps from a tap and die set, like I said, can be used, but they require extra care to avoid damaging the threads.

Finally, on my list, we have an engine rotating tool. This tool lets you manually rotate an engine on a stand, making it easier to check clearances or install parts. It’s useful, but it’s a little more optional because you can usually rotate the engine with a socket on a crank snout or by turning the flywheel. Still, it offers better control to have the actual tool, especially for complex assemblies requiring precise movement. Manual rotating tools are priced between $20 and $50. They have a simple crank handle for smooth hand-powered rotation. Always make sure you remove your spark plugs before rotating a fully assembled engine. This is going to avoid compression issues that can make turning difficult or even risky. Apply steady, controlled force and ensure the tool is securely attached to prevent slips or misalignment.

Where have it, guys? Those are the tools that I will be using to disassemble and then eventually reassemble my 351 Windsor engine. You know, when I started out doing this, I had no idea what most of these tools even were, and I had no idea what to even think about going out and getting or why you would use them. So, I hope that this video has kind of shed some light on that for you, helped you out. And only you guys may already be experienced engine builders, but hey, you know, if you learned something today, as always, I ask that you give me a like and subscribe. It really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, if you think I missed something, or if you think my importance factor was wrong on any of these, hey, give me a shout, let me know what you think in the comments. I appreciate that too. So, as always, guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No gauge, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

So you want to talk about a defining but often overlooked feature of Ford trucks in the second half of the 20th century? Sure, you’re going to the right place, but don’t expect an all about the legendary Windsor V8s, bold styling, rock solid rear axles, or groundbreaking transmissions. No, today we’re talking about getting groceries.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and if you’re like me and groceries feel more like a luxury these days, maybe you’ve got some time to learn about one of Ford’s wildest ideas: the twin I-beam and twin traction beam suspensions. These engineering marvels made everything from grocery runs to off-road adventures more comfortable while driving alignment techs crazy in the process. Today, we’re going to dig into what makes this system brilliant, bizarre, and downright infuriating. So settle in, it’s going to be a cushy ride.

Hello! Ford’s twin I-beam suspension debuted in 1965 on the F-series trucks. The goal was simple: create a suspension that combined the strength of a solid axle with the comfort of independent suspension. And let’s be honest, Ford absolutely nailed the durability part. This setup could take a beating on a rugged job site or muddy trail and still bring it home in one piece. The twin I-beam was revolutionary for its time. Instead of a single solid axle running across the front, Ford split it into two beams, each mounted to the frame on its own pivot point. The design gave each wheel independent movement while maintaining the strength needed for a truck.

Fast forward to the early 80s, and Ford evolved the concept into the twin traction beam for their 4×4 models. The TTB added a differential to the mix, allowing for independent movement in an off-road capable drivetrain. These designs stuck around for decades. The twin I-beam was a staple in Ford’s two-wheel drive trucks, while the twin traction beam dominated the front ends of 4×4 models well into the ’90s. And though they’ve been replaced by more modern systems, today they remain a favorite for off-road enthusiasts and anyone who appreciates overbuilt engineering.

So let’s head over to my stripped-down 1995 F-150 chassis, and I can break the system down and show you how these parts work together. The twin I-beam consists of two large forged steel beams. Each beam pivots on a frame-mounted bracket and connects to the wheel hub at the outer end. Ford engineered these beams to be tough because they had to be. These trucks weren’t just for show; they worked hard hauling, towing, and tackling rough terrain. Each beam uses a radius arm to control forward and backward movement. These arms connect the beams to the frame, providing stability. Coil springs or leaf springs, depending on the model, support the truck’s weight while shocks handle the damping.

The twin traction beam builds on this concept by adding a front differential and CV axles. This setup enables four-wheel drive functionality while retaining independent beam movement. The main tweak is that one beam is split to house the differential, with a slip joint handling axle length changes during suspension movement.

Okay, so let’s get into the fun stuff. First, I’ll jack up one wheel to show you how independent articulation works. Notice how one wheel moves while the other stays put? That’s the magic of a twin I-beam. It’s kind of like an independent suspension but keeps the rugged simplicity of a solid axle design. Those pivot points are doing all the heavy lifting here. I’ll grab a level, and watch this. As the suspension travels, you’ll see the camber angle shift. This dynamic camber is one of the system’s quirks. While it’s awesome for off-road capability, it’s a nightmare for tire wear and alignment precision. Alignment techs watching this are probably groaning already, and yeah, I get it. Let me show you something. Here’s an image of my chassis before I took the engine and transmission off, and here it is afterwards. You see the dramatic difference in camber? If that’s not a quirk, then I don’t know what is.

Finally, let’s take a closer look at the wear points here at the bushings. You can see how years of hard work and rough roads take their toll. The ball joints and radius arm mounts are other common failure points. If you’re running one of these, keep an eye on these parts. They’ll save you a headache later.

The twin I-beam debuted on the 1965 F-series and remained a go-to for Ford’s two-wheel drive trucks through the late ’90s. The twin traction beam arrived in 1980, making its debut in the F-series and Bronco 4×4 models. It stuck around until the late ’90s too, when Ford moved to more modern independent front suspension designs. These systems showed up on everything from work trucks to off-road rigs. They even gained popularity on custom builds and Baja racers, thanks to their durability and the ability to handle heavy loads in extreme terrain.

But while the twin I-beam and TTB are undeniably tough, they are definitely not perfect. With dynamic camber changes, uneven tire wear is practically a guarantee without regular alignments, and their long beams can sometimes bend under extreme stress, though it’s pretty rare in normal everyday use. When it comes to maintenance, keep an eye on the bushings, ball joints, and radius arm mounts. These points take a lot of abuse and tend to wear out faster than the other parts. Replacing them isn’t hard, but using quality parts will save you from constant repair.

Ford’s modern independent front suspensions are far more refined and easier to maintain, but they don’t have the rugged simplicity of the twin I-beam and TTB. Solid axles, like those in many Dodge and Jeep models, offer better articulation and strength for serious off-roading, but they give up that cushy ride comfort that Ford I-beams are known for. For most drivers, the twin I-beam and TTB strike a balance between comfort and capability that’s pretty hard to beat. Off-road enthusiasts love their durability and how well they handle abuse.

So how did the twin I-beam and TTB stack up against the competition? Well, let’s take a look. So double wishbone, sure, they offered better handling and more predictable camber angles, but they couldn’t match the sheer durability and off-road prowess of the twin I-beam. Ford went for toughness and ride comfort instead of sharp road manners. But what about solid axles in the front, you say? Well, Dodge and GM stuck with solid axles, and while these were rugged and offered excellent articulation for off-road use, they often rode rougher than the Ford T-I-beam. They also sent more vibration and noise into the cab, which made them less ideal for daily driving, you know, and getting groceries.

For off-roaders, the TTB was a revelation. It combined the durability of the twin I-beam with the added traction of a four-wheel drive drivetrain, giving enthusiasts a suspension that thrived on both trails and highways. But the TTB’s complex geometry made it harder to maintain than the simpler solid axle setup. Aligning a twin I-beam or TTB suspension is a dying art. Unlike standard suspensions, where alignment usually means tweaking camber, caster, and toe, the twin I-beam’s dynamic camber needs a deeper understanding of how it moves under load. Most alignment shops struggle with these setups because the knowledge has faded over time. The beams, pivots, and radius arms create unique challenges. Getting the alignment right often means using specialized shims to fine-tune camber and caster angles. Those shims need to be carefully chosen based on the truck setup and how you plan to use it. Inexperienced techs can throw off the alignment, causing uneven tire wear and bad handling.

If you’re looking for a shop to align your twin I-beam or TTB equipped truck, look for older, experienced techs or specialists who know classic Ford systems. Bringing a service manual or alignment spec can help make sure the job gets done right, if they’ll let you do that. If you’re a shade tree mechanic, you might be able to handle a basic alignment on twin I-beam or TTB suspension with some common tools. Now, it’s not going to replace a professional setup with the proper tools, but it can improve handling and tire wear until you can get it done professionally.

So here’s how you tackle it. Okay, so if you’re doing this yourself, here’s what you’re going to need: a camber gauge like the one I showed you earlier, or just a straight edge, and a level, tape measure, some jack stands, and wrenches and sockets, and some alignment shims for the camber and caster adjustments. Got all that stuff? Okay, great. Here’s what you do. First, check your ride height. You got to make sure the truck’s sitting at its normal ride height with all the usual weight installed: engine, transmission, you name it. The suspension geometry depends on load, so skipping this step can throw off all your adjustments.

Next, you measure the camber by using a camber gauge or a straight edge and level against the wheel. Compare what you measure to the factory specs. If you need to adjust, you’ll add or replace shims at the beam pivot points. Third step is to set your toe. Grab your tape measure and check the distance between the front and rear edges of the tires. You want the front measurement to be just a little closer than the rear for a slight toe-in. Adjust the tie rods to dial it in. Step four, adjust your caster. This one’s a bit trickier. Caster adjustments require shimming at the radius arms. You want to consult a service manual here to make sure you get it right. And finally, the final check. Once everything’s adjusted, go back and recheck all your measurements, then take the truck out for a short drive. If it pulls to one side or chews through tires, then you know you need to tweak it some more. I know it’s not very specific; go out and get a shop manual, but really, that’s your best friend in a situation like this. And while this process can help in a pinch, a professional alignment is still the gold standard for proper geometry. But hey, this is a great way to get your hands on with your suspension and learn more about your truck.

One good thing about this type of suspension is that the aftermarket has fully jumped on with the twin I-beam and TTB. Upgraded radius arms, beam braces, and heavy-duty bushings are easy to find and can boost strength and performance. Lift kits are a favorite too, giving you more ground clearance and room for bigger tires. Off-roaders love the TTB for its massive potential. With the right upgrades, these systems can dominate pretty much anything: rock crawling, desert racing, you name it. It’s no wonder why they still have a loyal fan base decades after rolling off the line.

Ford pushed the twin I-beam suspension as a breakthrough in truck design back in the day. Ford ads used animated diagrams to show off how the suspensions work, highlighting their independent movement and durability. The TTB built on this legacy, becoming a legend in the off-road world, especially in Baja racing, where modified versions still compete today. Plenty of aftermarket long travel kits for desert racing take inspiration from the TTB’s design, proving its lasting impact on off-road technology. Enthusiasts love how overbuilt these suspensions are, which is why they’re still favorites for restoration and custom builds.

And that’s the quick and dirty story of Ford’s twin I-beam and twin traction beam suspensions: rugged, innovative, and a little quirky, just like the trucks they come on. Love them or hate them, you have to respect the engineering behind these designs. They’ve stood the test of time and remain a favorite among enthusiasts.

So there you go, guys, everything I know or pretend to know about the twin I-beam and twin traction beam suspension. Again, like I always say, if you learned something, give me a like and subscribe. That really helps me out; I appreciate it. Go get yourself a cool hat, and if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, if I missed something, if you just want to yell at me for some reason, stick it in the comments. Once again, guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time. But she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. Oh no, garage, she’s considered div. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.

What does the Ford 9-in axle and Mike Tyson have in common? No matter how old they get, they both can take a beating and keep coming back for more. This rear end is so tough it probably scares the bolts holding it together, and it’s been doing that since the ’50s.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And while it’s true that the 9-in is legendary for its strength, there’s more to the story than just soaking up horsepower. Back in the day, racers were sneaking these bad boys into competition, bending rule books like pretzels just to get a leg up. Why? Well, because the Ford 9-in rear end was like a secret weapon that gave them an edge on the track. And even now, decades later, it’s still the go-to choice for gearheads looking to put serious power to the pavement while keeping their options open. But it’s all fun and games until someone snaps an axle, and nothing is perfect. Yeah, I said it.

Today, we’re taking a hard look at what makes a Ford 9-in so revered among enthusiasts and how even the mighty Ford 9-in has its tradeoffs. So grab a seat while we shake the dust off the old shop manual and dig into every nut, bolt, and bearing until we know why this rear end practically has its own fan club.

Hello! All right, so let’s get into what makes the Ford 9-in axle tick. When we say Ford 9-in, we’re talking about the ring gear diameter—a solid 9 in of precision engineering. Back in the ’50s, Ford engineers weren’t just aiming for good enough; they wanted a rear end that outlasted the rest of the drivetrain, and they nailed it. Today, Ford 9-in axle usually means the whole rear end assembly: housing, third member, ring and pinion, and axle shafts. It’s a fully integrated system that you can tweak, tune, and toughen to no end.

What really sets the 9-in apart? It’s ridiculously easy to wrench on. Thanks to its removable third member, you can yank the whole gear set out from the front without dinking around in gear oil. That’s a lifesaver for anyone dialing in their gear ratios. Whether you’re setting up for highway cruising or shaving a tenth off your quarter mile, you can swap ratios in an afternoon, not in a weekend.

But the Ford 9-in axle isn’t just about ease of maintenance. The design itself is inherently robust. Its lower pinion placement engages more teeth on the ring gear at once, spreading the load and reducing wear. A simple tweak, but with big results. With a beefy housing, unmatched aftermarket support, and decades of refinements, you’ve got a rear end that’s just as comfortable behind a mild small block as it is handling high horsepower builds.

Speaking of beefy housings, if you ever find yourself rummaging through a junkyard for that 9-in, keep your eyes peeled for the casting marks on that center section. If you spot a big bold ‘N’ cast in there, that usually means it’s a nodular iron case—the holy grail for folks running serious power. Those nodular iron cases handle torque like nobody’s business. We’re talking about a stronger iron blend that resists cracking under high torque, like a steel-toed boot versus a flip-flop. Ford also made standard or war cases, which are still tough for most builds, but if you’re hunting the best of the best, nodular—that’s the watchword.

Another thing: not all 9-in housings are created equal. Some are big bearing and some are small bearing. You can’t always slap big bearing axles on a small bearing housing, so it’s worth checking whether your junkyard score is big or small bearing before you load up on fancy new parts. Big bearings handle heavier loads and higher speeds better—perfect for high horse builds or trucks that see a lot of abuse. Whether you’re retrofitting a classic Mustang or tackling a late model resto mod, the 9-in is up for the job.

And while we’re on this subject of adaptability, let’s keep in mind that it means the 9-in came in all shapes and sizes over the decades. Ford used it in everything from ’57 Rancheros to Broncos and F-series trucks, and the distance between wheel mounting surfaces can vary a ton. If you’re swapping a 9-in into a classic Mustang or something else entirely, you don’t always have to match the exact factory width. Going narrower can help tuck in big tires or achieve a certain stance, while going wider might fill out the fenders better. If you do decide to go off script with the width, just remember to measure your wheel offset or backspacing before you commit. Otherwise, you can end up with rubbing tires or that bulldog look where the wheels stick way out like a sore thumb. Although some folks around where I live think that looks really cool, uh, but I’ll let you be the judge.

In any case, for a restoration, sure, you might want to keep it bone stock, but for hot rodders or resto mod builders, a little fudging on the width is all right.

All right, so let’s get back on track and spin the dial back to 1957 so we can get into how the 9-in made its mark. Introduced in ’57, it debuted under full-size Ford cars like the Custom and Fairlane, delivering durability that was pretty impressive for the time. By the ’60s, as Mustangs, Thunderbirds, and Galaxies hit the streets packing some serious V8 heat, the 9-in axle became the obvious choice. Racers caught on quick; before long, you’d find the Ford 9-in rear end in everything from drag strip warriors to circle track terrors. Why? Well, it could take big horsepower without grenading its internals like a piñata at a four-year-old’s birthday party.

By the late ’60s, if you were building a serious track car or a dragster, there was a pretty good chance someone would just whisper, “What a 9-in under there?” Ford made waves by putting it in popular platforms like the Mustang. Now, not every first-gen Mustang came with a 9-in from the factory; it depended on the engine and the options, but performance variants often did. And even if they didn’t, a 9-in was pretty easy to swap in. Gearheads hoarded these axles, yanking them from junkyards, swapping them into other Fords, and even squeezing them into non-Ford builds. After all, horsepower doesn’t care what badge is on the grill when it’s time to hold the line in the back.

You know, I’ve come across more than a few stories while doing my research here—whispers passed out in magazines, interviews, uh, and the pits after the dust settled about racers sneaking Ford 9-in rear ends under their machines they had no business being in. Chevy, Mopar, didn’t make a difference. With a careful grind here and a splash of paint there, they sneaked right past the rule book to tap into the 9-in strength and reliability. These weren’t loyalists looking to wave the blue oval banner; they were competitors who knew a performance edge when they saw one. That kind of sneaky dedication says it all. The 9-in was like a backstage pass; everyone wanted it, but not everyone was supposed to have it.

By the way, if you’re sneaking a 9-in under your build, make sure you pay close attention to the axle shaft hardening. Some older 9-in axles, often the earlier 31-spline shaft units, are, uh, through-hardened, making the metals uniformly hardened from end to end. These can be safely shortened and re-pinned without splicing into a soft zone. But many later axles, especially post-’72, are only induction-hardened around the splines. Uh, chop those, and you’ll be cutting into the metal if it’s not heat-treated for high stress, which is a recipe for a catastrophic failure. So don’t just fire up the angle grinder without knowing what kind of metal mojo you’re working with. In general, 31-spline axles prior to ’72 can be sure, but because Ford’s manufacturing methods varied over time and sometimes even mid-year, uh, the safest bet is to verify exactly how each axle’s hardened. Also, if the axle is tapered, it’s generally off-limits for shortening.

If you want to keep it simple and have the cash, you can just go to aftermarket and forget all the messy shortening business altogether and skip the guesswork.

All right, let’s talk about what makes this rear end tick. A stock Ford 9-in axle typically came with either 28-spline or 31-spline axles. Spline count refers to how the axles connected to the differential. More splines typically mean stronger axles. In most factory V8 setups, 28-spline axles got the job done, but on heavier hitters like the Boss 302 or the 428 Cobra Jet, you might find 31-spline axles lurking back there for serious power. Think drag racing with a blown Windsor or a torque-happy 460; you want to upgrade to 31-spline shafts or even aftermarket 35-spline options. Thankfully, the aftermarket delivers every spline count and alloy you could dream of.

As for 9-in gear ratios, well, that’s where the fun begins. You can run something mild like 3.0 to 1 or 3.25 to 1 for long highway cruises. It lets your engine loaf along its speed without screaming. On the other hand, if you’re dropping the hammer at the track or looking for killer acceleration off the line, step up to something in the 4.0 to 1 and above range. Yeah, your fuel economy will take a hit, but when you’re chasing faster ETs, who’s counting miles per gallon anyway? The best part is that changing gears in a 9-in end is about as painless as it gets. Just pop the third member out, swap in a new set, and you’re good to go. No fumbling around inside of cramped housing.

Over the years, the Ford 9-in axle found itself under a wide variety of Ford vehicles, from certain configurations of the ’57 Ford Custom and Ranchero to Mustangs, Fairlanes, Galaxies, and later Broncos and F-series trucks. The 9-in got around. Even Mercury and Lincoln got in on the action. If you want to nerd out a little, check the chart I’ll pop up here on the screen that lists a bunch of the different vehicles and the axle widths they came with. This is perfect if you’re hunting for a junkyard 9-in and don’t want to guess which housing might work best for your ride. But always measure for yourself because Ford was known to change specs mid-year. If you’re looking for an exact fit or dealing with tight tolerances, you’ll still have to measure in person to be absolutely sure. Think of this chart as, uh, 99% correct for most cases, with enough weird exceptions out there that it’s worth breaking off the tape measure every single time.

The 9-in was as much a part of Ford’s performance DNA as the small blocks and big blocks bolted in front of it. Think about the golden age of Ford performance, and odds are a trusty 9-in was quietly holding it all together in the background. Ford’s early muscle trucks and SUVs thrived on its strength, and off-roaders have relied on its durability for decades. But let’s be real, nothing’s perfect. While the 9-in is legendary for toughness, it’s not without its quirks. One common knock is it can sap a bit more horsepower than, say, a more modern design. The culprit here is the pinion angle and how the gears mesh. The 9-in has a deeper pinion offset with a third bearing supporting it. It’s like giving the pinion gear its own personal security detail. Extra bearings equal extra stability, but it also costs you in a smidge of efficiency.

Another thing to consider: if you score a vintage 9-in at a salvage yard, it’s probably due for a rebuild. Bearings, seals, and gears don’t last forever, and given the age of some of these axles, you might be buying a project instead of a plug-and-play solution. That said, parts are everywhere, and the simplicity of the design makes it very approachable for a rebuild. When it comes to maintenance, the 9-in keeps things pretty simple: fresh gear oil, clean wear patterns, and healthy bearings and seals—that’s all it takes to keep the 9-in happy.

For high torque or horsepower setups, you probably want to step up to stronger shafts and a nodular iron third member. It’s a beefed-up aftermarket version of the stock center section. And if you’re restoring a classic Ford and want to keep it period correct, a stock 9-in axle might be enough. But if you’re building a resto mod or a serious race car, don’t hesitate to step up to high-performance parts because the aftermarket offers everything from modern limited slip differentials and lockers to advanced torque biasing setups that send power where it’s needed most.

Comparing the Ford 9-in to other axles in the Ford family tree brings up some interesting points. For instance, the 8-in axle was decent for mild street cars, but it lacked the raw strength of the 9-in. The Ford 8.8, introduced later, is a solid and lighter option with decent aftermarket support; however, it’s harder to swap gears in and is often seen as less durable under serious power. So the 9-in remains the gold standard for Ford rear ends, and that’s not just a FIA talking. It’s easy to swap gear ratios, unmatched aftermarket support, and decades of proven durability still set it apart from the pack.

Of course, if you’re a Chevy or Mopar guy, you might be shouting, “What about the 12-bolt or the 8 and 3/4?” They’re no slouches. I mean, the Mopar 8 and 3/4 even uses a dropout center just like the 9-in, and the Chevy 12-bolt has loyal fans who will swear it’s just as strong with slightly less power loss. But what makes the 9-in special is its insane aftermarket and that bulletproof third bearing pinion support.

The Ford 9-in axle is an ideal upgrade for your classic muscle Mustang project or a modern resto mod. I’ve said that before. If you’ve got a Fox Body Mustang, a Crown Vic front end swapped F100 or F-150, the 9-in can tie your build together nicely. It’s not always a direct bolt-in; you might need to narrow the housing, spring perches, or order a custom width unit for your setup. Once it’s installed, though, the 9-in becomes the ultimate rear-end playground. Whether it’s swapping gear ratios, adding limited slip differentials, or upgrading to rear disc brakes, it’s all about grabbing parts off the shelf and turning wrenches—not reinventing the wheel.

I mean, I know I sound like a broken record, but when it comes to aftermarket support, the Ford 9-in stands in a league of its own. The term here might be global phenomena. You can pick up brand new housings that mimic the originals or go all in with fabricated designs that look ripped straight out of NASCAR. You can literally put together the parts for a 9-in build from scratch in your underwear while eating Cheetos and staring at the Jegs or Racing logo. Axle shafts, choose from hardened steel alloys, beef your spline counts, and custom links tailored to your build. Differentials, everything’s on the table, from vintage-style limited slips to modern lockers and torque-sensing units that were pure sci-fi in the 9-in heyday.

The 9-in’s iconic status means the companies never stopped innovating. They’ve pushed the design and materials far beyond what Ford’s original engineers could have imagined back in the ’60s and ’70s. Of course, just because you can throw every part in the catalog at your axle doesn’t mean you should. You know, the real beauty of the 9-in is flexibility. It could be as simple or as tricked out as you want. Yeah, if you’re rocking a mildly warmed-over 302 or P51 Windsor, a stock 9-in with a refresh limited slip might be all you need. If you’re cranking out some serious horsepower with a big block or a stroked small block, consider the upgraded components. The real beauty is choice. You’re not locked into one ratio or spline count; you won’t be stuck hunting for rear parts. It’s all right at your fingertips, which is why the 9-in remains just as relevant today as it was decades ago.

I mean, the 9-in is more than just metal; it’s a piece of heritage. It’s a nod to an era when Detroit churned out parts built to last. Racers bent the rules to use it, gearheads embraced it, and modern builders still rely on it. Sure, it’s got some imperfections—a bit more parasitic loss, the occasional rebuild, maybe some extra weight compared to newer designs—but in return, you get a proven track record and limitless tuning potential. And that, that’s the secret sauce, my friends. The 9-in rear end earned its stripes the hard way, on the track, in the garage, and under the wrench. That is why even now, when you think of building a classic Ford or stuffing something monstrous under that old chassis in your garage, the Ford 9-in is the first thing that comes to mind. It’s a piece of history, a symbol of strength, and the ultimate guardian of your precious horsepower.

And all that said, you know, going into my own build, I figured the 8.8 was more than up to the task. My plan was simple: throw in some chromoly axles, lock in a solid gear ratio, and call it good for my 408 stroker build. But man, after digging deeper into the Ford 9-in axle, I’m starting to rethink that. I mean, the 8.8 has got plenty going for it—it’s lighter, it’s cheaper, doesn’t need a total rework. On the other hand, the 9-in is that bulletproof insurance policy that I’ve been talking about. Okay, easy gear swaps, legendary reputation, and massive aftermarket support. I mean, now while 450 horses, which is my target, doesn’t necessarily demand it, a 9-in would give me peace of mind, you know, whether I want to crank up the power later or just want to surprise somebody.

Now I’m in a classic builder dilemma: stick with the tried and true 8.8, beef it up, and save some cash, or go all in on a 9-in and never look back. I mean, seriously, guys, what do you think? Should I stick with the upgrade at 8.8 or take the leap to the big league 9-in? I mean, let me know because honestly, I’m still on the fence. Put your opinion in the comments, and as usual, if you learned something today, I really appreciate that. Like and subscribe; it really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop it in the comments and let me know. And as always, thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. Away getting things to shine, and oh, NOS G, she’s ConEd Divine. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.

This is the Ford E4OD transmission, born at the Sharonville transmission plant in Ohio. This powerhouse was designed to haul the C6’s legendary toughness into the modern age. E4OD wasn’t just a warmed-over version of old ideas; it was Ford’s answer to a new world where trucks had to tow campers, tall boats, climb mountains, and still cruise highways without bleeding your wallet dry at every pump.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and today we’re talking about the E4OD transmission. True to its name, electronic four-speed overdrive, this mechanical marvel packed overdrive, electronic controls, and a chance at better fuel economy in Ford’s toughest trucks and SUVs, all while keeping the heavy-duty muscle Ford fans expected from the C6. But what’s really going on inside this hulking aluminum-clad marvel? What’s made it a hero for truck fans, a headache for mechanics, and a talking point at swap meets for over 30 years? Stick around as we unpack its history, tackle its quirks, and figure out why the E4OD still pulls its weight, and maybe, just maybe, why it deserves a spot under your truck. That is, if it’s not already there.

Hello! The E4OD hit the scene in 1989, just as the automotive world was shifting gears. Trucks weren’t just workhorses anymore; they were daily drivers, highway cruisers, and everything in between. Ford needed a transmission that could deliver both towing power and monitor efficiency, and this E4 was their answer. Built on the foundation of the C6, Ford’s legendary three-speed automatic, it came with some major upgrades by keeping the C6’s rugged planetary gear set and beaky design, but adding an overdrive fourth gear, a lockup torque converter, and electronic controls. The E4OD bridged the gap between the C6’s old-school toughness and the modern features demanded by a new generation of Ford truck owners.

Let’s talk about the specs. The E4 features four forward gears and reverse gear ratios are 2.71 to 1 in first, 1.54 to 1 in second, 1 to 1 in third, and 0.71 to 1 in fourth for highway-friendly overdrive. Reverse comes in at 2.18 to 1. It is a big heavy-duty unit, tipping the scales at approximately 230 lbs dry. It holds between 17 and 18 quarts of transmission fluid completely dry, with Mercon automatic transmission fluid recommended. But there’s an important caveat regarding Mercon fluid, which I’ll get to in a bit. Stay tuned for that.

The case is made from aluminum to cut weight while staying durable. Early models came with cast iron tail shaft housings, but most later versions switched to aluminum to shave off even more weight. The lockup torque converter is a standout feature built to boost efficiency by cutting slippage at cruising speeds. Unlike traditional torque converters that rely entirely on fluid, the E4’s lockup converter uses a clutch to form a direct mechanical link between the engine and the transmission. This touchdown on heat boosts fuel economy and makes the E4 a dependable performer for towing and highway cruising. While it wasn’t the first lockup design in the industry, its use in the E4OD was key to keeping durability front and center, making it a trusted choice for both commercial and personal trucks.

For 1989, the E4’s electronic controls brought a new level of sophistication to Ford’s heavy-duty lineup. A transmission control module, or TCM, monitored inputs like throttle position, vehicle speed, and engine load to manage shift points, line pressure, and torque converter lockup. This level of adaptability made the E4OD more responsive and efficient, no matter the conditions. Keeping pace with the industry’s move toward electronic transmission control, the E4OD was installed in a wide range of vehicles from 1989 to 1998. It was a staple in F-series trucks, including the F-150, F-250, and F-350, as well as Broncos and E-series vans. It was paired with a wide range of engines, from the dependable 300 inline 6 to the burly 460 big block and International Harvester’s II diesels. To accommodate these engines, Ford produced the E4 with distinct bell housing patterns: small block, big block, and diesel.

This one here is a small block. The small block version works with engines like the 302, 351 Windsor, and the 360. The big block version is for the 460, while the diesel version is designed for engines like the 6.9 L and the 7.3 L IDI. While the big block and diesel bell housings might look similar, they have different bolt patterns and aren’t directly interchangeable. Modifying one to fit another engine isn’t a simple task; it requires significant machining and custom adaptive plates. Unless you’re a seasoned fabricator with the right tools, it’s best just to use the correct bell housing for your engine to ensure proper alignment and operation.

While the E4 was primarily used in Ford’s consumer trucks and vans, its robust design made it suitable for specialized commercial and industrial applications too. You’ll find it in vehicles like ambulances, motor homes, and shuttle buses built on Ford’s E-series and F-series chassis. Its heavy-duty capabilities made it a popular choice for upfitted vehicles that required reliable performance under demanding conditions.

Now let’s talk about what this transmission does well and where it sometimes struggles. When it comes to strengths, it stands out for its durability and towing capacity. Built on the bones of the C6, it can handle a serious amount of torque. The overdrive gear and lockup torque converter also made it a huge forward in fuel efficiency, especially for highway driving. Its Achilles’ heel? Overheating. That’s why adding an auxiliary transmission cooler isn’t just a good idea; it’s a must if you plan to tow or haul. Another issue is solenoid pack failures. The good news? They’re fixable. The bad news? Diagnosing that problem can be tricky without the right tools. And then there’s the oil pan. Surprise, surprise! E4 doesn’t even have a drain plug. That means changing the fluid requires dropping the whole pan, which is messy and time-consuming unless you know a handy trick, which I’ll share in a bit.

One of the E4OD’s greatest perks wasn’t even part of the original plan. It’s highly compatible with parts from its successor, the 4R100, introduced in 1998. The 4R100 refined and expanded on the E4’s foundation, and many of its components can be retrofitted into an E4OD to boost performance and durability. Builders often swap in 4R100 clutches, prized for their strength and ability to handle higher torque loads. Solenoid packs and valve bodies from the 4R100 are also popular upgrades, offering more reliable shifting and better line pressure control. While these retrofits aren’t rocket science for a skilled builder, they do demand close attention to compatibility and sometimes even reprogramming the TCM to handle the upgrades.

If gutting a 4R100 is your style, the 4 boasts a full aftermarket ecosystem. Popular upgrades include high-performance valve bodies for firmer, more precise shifts and upgraded clutches known to handle extreme horsepower and torque. Torque converters are another key upgrade; aftermarket models offer higher stall speeds for performance builds or heavy-duty designs for towing and off-road use. To keep things cool, many builders offer deep transmission pans that boost fluid capacity and come with built-in cooling fins. Plus, they typically come with a pre-installed drain plug, a major win for your maintenance.

Advanced controllers like the US Shift, formerly Valman Opti Shift, let you fine-tune shift points, line pressure, and torque converter lockup, giving you total control over your transmission’s behavior. When it comes to maintenance, the E4’s lack of a drain plug on the oil pan, like I mentioned before, can be a real headache. Dropping the pan to change the fluid is messy and time-consuming. However, there is a method to make the process cleaner. You can disconnect the return line from the transmission cooler and direct it into a container. Start the engine briefly, and the transmission’s internal pump will push the fluid out through the line. But here’s the catch: you need to shut the engine off before the fluid flow stops completely to avoid running the pump dry, which can cause serious damage. Refill the pan and repeat until the fluid coming out looks clean. While this method helps refresh much of the fluid, it doesn’t replace all the old fluid in the system. For a complete flush, it’s best to have it done professionally, and for long-term convenience, adding a drain plug to the bottom of the pan is a worthwhile upgrade.

The E4 was originally designed to use Mercon automatic transmission fluid. However, it’s crucial to note that starting in the late 1990s, Ford introduced Mercon 5, a synthetic blend with different friction characteristics. But here’s the catch: Mercon 5 is not backward compatible. Hold up, hold up, wait a minute, wait just a second. I got to explain something. You’ll be back in just a second.

Now, about the whole Mercon versus Mercon 5 debacle, it’s a bit of a soap opera in the transmission world. Back when Ford introduced Mercon 5 in ’97, they explicitly told everyone, do not use this in transmissions that require Mercon. That included our trusty E4OD. Using Mercon 5 back then could mess up your transmission shifting and cause all sorts of headaches because the friction characteristics were different. So the avoid Mercon 5 like the plague mantra started, and for good reason. Fast forward to 2006, and Ford throws us a curveball. They decide to discontinue Mercon and announce that Mercon 5 is now the recommended fluid for all applications that previously used Mercon, including the E4OD. No big reformulation announcement, no flashy new label, not even a new name, just a quiet technical service bulletin saying, hey, Mercon 5 is fine now.

You can imagine the confusion this caused. Enthusiasts, mechanics, and builders were left scratching their heads, wondering if they should trust the new guidance or stick with what they knew. So here is the straight talk: according to Ford, you can use Mercon 5 in your E4OD. But I get it; old habits die hard, and myths stick around. If you’re picking up an E4OD from a junkyard or you’re unsure of its history and you want to play it safe, using a fluid that meets the original Mercon specification won’t hurt. Products like Valvoline Dex/Merc automatic transmission fluid are designed to be compatible with transmissions that require Mercon. Just look for fluids that state they’re suitable for Mercon applications. Using a quality fluid like this ensures you’re keeping the E4OD running smoothly without venturing into Mercon 5 territory. If you’re uncomfortable with it, always remember using the correct fluid is key to your transmission’s health, so taking this extra step ensures you’re doing right by your rig. But if you want to follow Ford’s updated guidance, Mercon 5 is officially approved.

Rebuilding the E4OD is more challenging than working on old automatics like the C6 or C4. The electronics add complexity, and getting the end play just right is absolutely critical. This requires precise tools like a dial indicator because even minor errors can lead to premature wear or failure. A professional rebuild can cost anywhere from $2,000 to $4,000, depending on parts and labor. For builders tackling this job themselves, patience and access to the right tools are key.

Now let’s talk about why someone might choose the E4 for a build or why they might pass on it. The E4OD is a powerhouse of a transmission. It’s built to handle high torque loads, making it a top contender for builds that demand durability. If you’re building something like a towing rig, a heavy-duty hauler, or even an off-road rig, the E4OD can take the abuse. Its electronically controlled overdrive gear adds versatility, sparing you the agony of screaming down the highway in low gear. And with its strong aftermarket support, you can upgrade the internals, add a standalone controller, or install a larger cooler to make it even more capable.

But it’s definitely not the perfect fit for every application. The E4OD is big, heavy, and complex. If you’re working in a lightweight street car like a Mustang or a pure performance build where quick shifts are critical, you might want to consider something like a built C4 or C6, a 4R70W, or even a Powerglide. They’re simpler, lighter, and tailor-made for fast, high RPM shifts. Plus, the E4OD’s size can complicate custom projects; it might take some serious tunnel mods to make it fit smaller vehicles. So while the E4 excels in high torque, multi-purpose builds, other options shine when raw speed or simplicity is the goal. But hey, if you want the bragging rights of cramming a monster transmission into a Fox Body, go for it! I won’t stop you.

Although the E4OD was replaced by the 4R100 in 1998, its legacy lives on. Many of the 4R100’s improvements are direct evolutions of the E4OD design. For truck enthusiasts, this transmission remains a popular choice for retrofits, restorations, and even some high torque drag racing builds, like diesel truck racing. Its mix of durability and modern features makes it a solid candidate for upgrading older vehicles or giving newer ones a performance edge.

So what’s the bottom line? The E4 is more than just a transmission; it’s a milestone in Ford’s engineering evolution. Whether you’re restoring a classic, building a tow rig, or just trying to understand what’s under your truck, the E4 delivers a fascinating blend of old school toughness and modern tech. If you’ve got an E4OD sitting on a pallet like I do, don’t think of it as a relic; it’s an opportunity waiting to be unleashed. Whether you’re selling it, swapping it, or upgrading it, this transmission has a story worth telling and a future worth building.

So there you go, guys! That’s everything that I know, or pretend to know, about the Ford E4OD transmission. I just so happen to have this one here as a visual aid for you guys that I just got done pulling from my donor chassis with my 351 Windsor engine. So, uh, yeah, there it is! If you learned something, uh, like I did doing this video, guys, give me a like and a subscribe; it really helps me out. Uh, go grab yourself a really cool hat from my merch store; that helps me out too. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop it in the comments and let me know. And as always, thanks again for watching, guys! We will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.

Imagine this: you’re in a cluttered garage, the scent of old oil heavy in the air, and some friend of a friend mechanic is elbow deep under the hood, grumbling, “Well, it’s a Ford, but it’s not one of the good ones.” Welcome to the strange and sometimes disappointing world of Ford’s lesser-known engines. These power plants that never got the fanfare or hero worship of, say, a 302 or a big block 460. Today, let’s shine a light on two oddballs, the ones you only hear about when someone’s squinting in an old factory option list: the SX V6 and the 255 V8. Now, these engines aren’t the mighty Cleveland or the famed Windsor family members that everyone drools over at car shows. No, these are the forgotten kids at the family reunion. But before you turn away, consider this: these engines came to life during a time when Ford was trying to navigate new emissions regulations, stricter fuel economy rules, and the oil crisis panic. They’re like those weird cousins at Thanksgiving—awkward at first but full of fascinating stories. Want to break the ice?

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And so here’s the real question: why should you care? Well, because understanding these engines is like getting a secret peek into Ford’s inner thought process back then, an era defined by compromise, creativity, and a dash of desperation. And who knows, maybe one of these engines is the perfect quirky choice for your next project. It might not be a tire shredder, but it’ll definitely earn a nod and a chuckle at your next Cars and Coffee meetup. So crack open a cold one, settle in, and let’s give these overlooked motors their 15 minutes of fame.

Hello! So you might be asking, why lump these two misfits together? Well, both the SX V6 and the 255 V8 represent a particular historical moment for Ford. Picture the late 1970s to early ’80s: emission laws were tightening faster than a lug nut at a pit stop, gas mileage became the new Holy Grail, and automakers were scrambling to make cars cleaner and thriftier at the pump. The big thirsty V8s of the ’60s and early ’70s suddenly looked like dinosaurs, and Ford had to figure out something new, something that could pass regulations without guzzling gas like a frat house kegger. These engines were Ford’s attempts at that balancing act. The Essex and the 255 were part of the experimental toolkit, so to speak. Sure, they didn’t redefine performance or become icons of efficiency, but they do tell us a lot about how manufacturers scramble for answers. And let’s be honest, when you’re talking about unusual or offbeat Ford engines, these two tend to come up in the same breath. Neither has a big fan base or much love, and both carry that head-scratching, “Why did Ford do this?” mystique. Side by side, they paint a clearer picture of what was happening under the Blue Oval’s roof at the time.

And finally, for my fellow Bullnose enthusiasts—that’s Ford trucks between 1980 and ’86—there’s a practical reason. The 255 V8 actually showed up in some early Bullnose trucks, even if it wasn’t exactly a top choice. And the 3.8L SX V6 also made a brief appearance, but only in small numbers of light-duty F100s during the ’82 to ’82 model years. While neither engine became iconic, both reflect Ford’s willingness to roll the dice, even if those bets didn’t quite pay off. Understanding one gives context to the other, and together they make a perfect pair for this video.

The Ford SX V6 came onto the scene in the 1980s. Now keep in mind, I’m talking about the North American version made in the S6 engine plant in Windsor, Ontario, not the UK version made in Dagenham, Essex, starting in the ’60s. They are not the same, not even close, which can be confusing. So the, uh, the North American version first debuted in the 1982 Thunderbird, got put in the LTD, and later snuck into the Mustang lineup. This engine soldiered on through the ’90s and beyond, even showing up as a supercharged option in the Thunderbird Super Coupe. The final version, a longer-stroked 4.2L, ended its production in the 2007 F-150. I mentioned it’s used in Bullnose trucks earlier, but it wasn’t exactly common. While most F-series trucks of that era stuck with the stalwart inline sixes and V8s, the 3.8L SX V6 did appear in a small number of base model F100s, particularly in Canada. It was a rarity in the lineup and wasn’t offered in heavier-duty models. But that doesn’t mean the enthusiasts haven’t toyed with the idea or even attempted a swap. Thanks to its compact size and decent fuel economy for the time, produced in massive numbers, the SX V6 was a true workhorse in sedans and family haulers. Not flashy, but dependable.

In the early ’80s, carbureted versions were the norm, but eventually Ford embraced the FI on the platform, improving drivability and emissions over time. The SX V6 evolved. It started out in a 3.8L engine, which is 232 cubic inches, with a bore of 3.81 inches and a stroke of 3.39 inches. Later, it increased the stroke to 3.74 inches to create the 4.2L version, which is 256 cubic inches, which powered F-150s from ’97 to 2007. There was also a 3.9L version, which is 237 cubic inches, achieved by using a 3.4-inch stroke, which appeared in vehicles like the Ford Freestar and Mercury Monterey, but never made its way to trucks. In addition to its displacement variations, the SX V6 stuck under with updates to keep up with changing technology and regulations. Early versions ran on carburetors, as I said, but Ford introduced EFI in the 1980s and later sequential port injection, or SPI. These upgrades brought more precise fuel delivery, improving drivability, efficiency, and emissions. These advancements played a big role in keeping the Essex relevant well into the ’90s, even as competition increased.

The production SX is an iron block, iron-headed V6. Deck height for the SX V6 reportedly measures approximately 8.9 inches, though it’s a hard stat to nail down with any confidence. Compression ratios range from about 8.0 to 1 to 9.0 to 1, depending on the year and application. Perfect for regular pump gas. Horsepower in early configurations wasn’t exactly eye-popping, I think roughly 110 to 120 horsepower in its early days, though EFI models and supercharged variants pushed that number significantly higher later on. Torque usually landed in the low to mid-200 pound range, which is respectable for a V6 in that era. The firing order for the SX V6 is typically 1-4-2-5-3-6. Oil capacity runs about 4.5 to 5 quarts, and good old 10W30 or 10W40 is often recommended, though as always, check the specs for your particular year. Thanks to its relatively lightweight build compared to the small block V8, it’s a tempting choice for compact projects.

Now, nobody’s geeking out over the finer details like they do with classic Ford V8s, but the SX V6 is a short, stout little workhorse. For practicality, not racing glory. Pop the hood on a Ford of the right era, and if you see a compact V6 with iron heads, a front-mounted distributor (at least on older carbureted models), and the distinctive Ford blue or black engine paint, depending on the year, chances are you’re looking at an Essex. But your best bet for identifying it, as usual, is to check the engine stampings and casting numbers. The intake manifold and valve cover shape can also give it away. Short, wide valve covers and a modest intake practically scream SX.

As I already mentioned, the SX V6 primarily powered cars like the Ford LTD, Mustang, and Thunderbird. Mercury counterparts shared love too. For years, it was Ford’s go-to V6 for front-engine, rear-drive sedans and coupes, especially as emission standards tightened and the V8 dominance began to wane. In its later years, it even found a home under the hood of front-wheel-drive platforms like the Taurus and minivans like the Windstar, those versions sporting improved tech. Now, as for common issues? Overheating? Yep, that wasn’t unheard of, especially in certain setups. Head gasket failures were a notorious sore spot in some years, especially in the ’90s. Front-wheel-drive variants, timing cover leaks, worn-out timing chains, and intake manifold gasket leaks also popped up occasionally. Regular maintenance helps, but if you’re eyeing a used Essex, you’ll want to give it a solid once-over.

When it comes to transmissions behind the SX V6 in rear-wheel-drive configurations, Ford initially paired it with automatics like the C5 and later the AOD for models like certain Fox body Mustangs and Thunderbirds. As the platform evolved, newer automatic options like the AOD and 4R70W showed up in later applications, particularly in the ’90s Mustangs and Thunderbirds. They still carried the SX V6 for manual fans. The SX V6 occasionally got the T5 5-speed in Fox body and SN95 Mustangs, and the Thunderbird Super Coupe famously offered the M5R2 5-speed manual. These factory pairings gave you a menu of bolt-up options, no fabrication needed, as long as you’re sourcing from SX V6-equipped donor cars. However, it’s worth noting that the SX V6 uses a unique bell housing pattern different from the classic small block Ford V8. In other words, you just can’t grab a transmission meant for a 302 or a 351 and expect it to bolt on without an adapter. If you’re doing a swap or restoration, your best bet is to find a transmission originally designed for the Essex. Now, to make matters worse, the SX bell housing pattern is different between front-wheel-drive and rear-wheel-drive versions, so you need to keep that in mind if you’re looking to bolt one up.

Replacement parts? No problem. Gaskets, filters, belts, hoses are all easy to find. But don’t expect a bustling SX speed shop with high-lift cams or tricked-out cylinder heads. If you’re willing to dig, you might find some enthusiasts adapting Thunderbird Super Coupe parts, or you could get brave and try forced induction. For most builders, though, the SX V6 is a leave-it-stock and hope-for-good-gas-mileage engine. We’ll talk more about potential performance tweaks a little bit later. So the SX V6, in a nutshell, steady, reliable, but never spectacular—a, shall we say, practical chapter in Ford’s history. It served faithfully during a challenging time, never aiming to wow gearheads at the drag strip. If you’re building a light, fuel-efficient rig or just want something quirky to chat about at the next car show, it might be worth considering. Otherwise, it’s hard to argue against a more common and better-supported engine like the 302 or even the 289. But there’s a certain charm in breathing new life into a forgotten motor.

Now on to today’s other star player, the 255 V8. Ford introduced the 255 as part of its effort to downsize the Windsor engine family in the late 1970s, rolling into the early ’80s. The goal was to create a smaller, more efficient V8 in an era when fuel economy and emissions were top priorities. The 255 saw action from around 1980 to ’82 with a mix of Ford and Mercury full-size cars, and yes, it even found its way into some early Bullnose F-series trucks. But it never quite caught on. Most folks saw it as a shadow of the venerable 302. Production numbers were low, and the engine quietly faded into obscurity as Ford focused on more promising configurations. The 255 might just be the definition of “seemed like a good idea at the time.” These days, it’s more of a curiosity than anything else. Still, if you’re working on a factory-correct restoration of a 1980-82 F100 or a full-size car from that era, the 255 could be on your radar. It’s a piece of the puzzle; it helps us understand Ford’s strategy at the time: keep that V8 cache alive while also avoiding gas guzzling. And the results? Let’s just say they were mixed.

The 255 V8 came from a proud lineage of small block Ford engines, starting with the 221 and 260 in the early ’60s. These compact V8s were trailblazers in their day, setting the stage for the Windsor family, which included legends like the 302 and eventually the ill-fated 255. While the 221 and 260 succeeded by striking a balance between power and efficiency, the 255 faced an uphill battle two decades later, hampered by tougher emissions and fuel economy mandates. Its displacement, about 255 cubic inches or 4.2L, comes from a reduced bore compared to the 302. The deck height is the same as a 302 at 8.2 inches, so what you’ve got is essentially a 302 block with smaller internals and restrictive heads. Compression ratios were low in the 8.0 to 1 to 8.3 to 1 range. Horsepower hovered around 115 to 120 horsepower, and torque landed in the 190 to 200 lb-ft neighborhood. Not exactly numbers to get your heart racing. The block and heads are cast iron, sturdy enough, but those tiny valves—1.64 inches intake and 1.38 inches exhaust—choke airflow like it owes them money. The firing order is the same as other Windsor V8s, and oil capacity is around 5 quarts. The recommended grade, similar to other small block Fords, tends to be 30 or 40.

Just like the SX, it’s compact and lightweight for a V8, but that’s pretty much its only bragging right in the performance department. At first glance, the 255 looks a lot like a 302, which can even trip up seasoned gearheads. To be sure, you need to check casting numbers and measure bore and stroke. The heads are a giveaway; those small valve sizes are a dead ringer. And if you’re looking at a 1980 to ’82 Ford or Mercury with a V8 that feels suspiciously underpowered, it’s probably a 255. The 255 showed up in certain Fox body platforms, full-size Fords like the LTD and Crown Victoria predecessors, and crucially, it made an appearance in some early Bullnose F100 trucks. It was never widely celebrated, so it didn’t hang around very long. By the mid-’80s, Ford had moved on to better-performing, more reliable engines. So let’s call it like it is: the 255 is an underachiever designed for fuel economy and emissions compliance. It’s not speed. Acceleration is modest at best. It can cruise around town and handle daily driving, but don’t expect to win any drag races. The engine’s real job is being a placeholder, just something to fill the bay while Ford worked on better ideas. Adequate for its time, but it won’t exactly set your hair on fire.

Maintenance-wise, nothing special here—just your usual low-V8 stuff: timing chain wear, carb tuning headaches, and the occasional oil leak from the valve covers or oil pan. The main gripe is its lackluster performance. With routine maintenance, it runs smoothly, but don’t expect to find any hidden power without serious mods. Unlike the SX V6, the 255 shares the classic small block Ford bell housing pattern that’s been around since the 1960s. This means it works with a wide range of transmissions built for engines like the 289, 302, and 351. From the factory, the 255, during its short production window, was most often paired with automatic transmissions in full-size Ford and Mercury models and early Bullnose trucks. You typically find a C4 or its successor, the C5, bolted behind it. The C4 and C5 were three-speed automatics, Ford’s warhorse back then—simple and reliable. By 1980, Ford also introduced the AOD, which is automatic overdrive, in some applications. Certain full-size cars running the 255 used the AOD to squeeze out a few more miles per gallon on the highway. And while rare, some Fox body cars with a 255 also offered the SROD, which is single rail overdrive four-speed manual transmission. Thanks to the interchangeability of small block Ford bell housing patterns, it’s not out of the question to find one in the wild.

The real advantage here is that if you decide to swap or upgrade from the 255, or even just want a different transmission option, the classic small block Ford bolt pattern gives you a buffet of choices: T5 five-speeds, AOD, AOD 4R70W automatics, Tremec five or six speeds—all potential candidates with the right combination of flywheel, clutch if you’re going manual, and linkage. This makes transmission selection for the 255-powered project far more flexible than what you’d encounter with the SX V6. But if the SX was slim on performance parts, the 255 is downright bare. Sure, some 302 parts fit, but the tiny valves and low compression ratio mean you’re starting from a weaker baseline. You could swap heads, intake manifolds, and exhaust components from a 302, but by the time you do that, you might as well have started with a 302 and saved yourself the hassle. Basic tweaks and maybe a slightly better intake or exhaust are all you’re likely to bother with unless you’re just dead set on making a point.

So let’s say you’re that special kind of gearhead who loves a challenge. Maybe you don’t care that your engine isn’t exactly a darling in the performance community. Maybe you want to roll into a car show, pop the hood, and make people say, “Wait, what is that?” If that’s the case, the SX V6 or the 255 V8 could provide a unique canvas for your next build. Just know what you’re getting into. For the SX V6, there’s a precedent for forced induction—the Thunderbird Super Coupe and a supercharged variant of this engine. With some scavenging and creativity, you could replicate or adapt those components to build a snappy V6, focusing more on torque and uniqueness than sheer horsepower. Think of a lightweight Fox body Mustang with a supercharged SX V6, or even an oddball swap into a Ranger. Sure, it’ll need custom fabrication, and yes, tracking down performance parts will be an exercise in hair-pulling, but if you succeed, you’ll have a story worth telling at every meet and greet. The SX’s lighter weight could also improve handling in smaller vehicles. Imagine a nimble autocross machine that stands out precisely because it’s not running the usual small block V8.

So the 255 V8, if you’re really committed, you could improve it with better flowing 302 heads, a mild performance cam, and freer breathing intake and exhaust. This could transform a wheezy old economy motor into something at least respectable. If you’re building a period-correct sleeper, stuffing it into a classic sedan or a vintage import to turn heads, it might just have enough charm to make sense. Or consider a small, all-lightweight roadster that could benefit from a compact V8. The 255 could be a fun project in a build where every pound matters, and all you’re after is that smooth V8 rumble, not huge horsepower. Are these mainstream performance choices? Absolutely not. You’ll work harder, spend more, and probably get less performance than you would with a common engine like a 302, 351, or even a turbocharged 2.3L four-cylinder. But that’s not the point. The point is that going off the beaten path has its own reward. If you’re all about uniqueness and love a good challenge, the SX V6 or the 255 could be the ultimate conversation starter and a test of your engineering chops.

In the grand tapestry of Ford engine history, the SX V6 and the 255 V8 are undoubtedly footnotes. They were products of their time, the late ’70s and early ’80s, when the rules of the game were changing faster than a pit crew at Daytona. Fuel economy and emissions compliance were the new commandments, and Ford, like everyone else, had to figure out how to satisfy Uncle Sam without boring the driving public to death. Though boring might still be fair. So the next time someone asks you about Ford’s engine lineup for the Bullnose era, you can say, “Sure, everyone knows the 302 and 351, but have you heard about the SX V6 and the 255 V8?” And just like that, you have something to talk about over a cold beverage, leaning on a fender, enjoying the smell of old oil in a garage. It’s shop talk fodder, a piece of history worth remembering, even if it’s just for the chuckle.

So there you go, guys. That’s everything that I know about the Ford SX V6 and the 255 V8. I hope you learned something today. I learned a bunch about these engines doing this video; hope you did too. Uh, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop me a comment below. I appreciate that. And as always, I really appreciate you guys for being here. Thanks again for watching, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

4 years, that’s how long this donor chassis has been rotting in my backyard, mocking me every time I walked past it like it was earning a PhD in Rust and regret. Well, the wait is over. In today’s video, I finally dragged its sorry frame into the garage to kick off this build series from my 351 Windsor into a 408 stroker.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, where small block dreams meet backyard ambition. This isn’t just another project; it’s the start of a long-awaited dream. The day kicked off with a caffeine-fueled tow job where my wife and I, armed with determination and questionable life choices, wrestled that chassis into position. Then, with the help of brute strength, an army of munchkins, and my shiny new floor-mounted shackle with a cal along, we hauled it into the garage.

Once it was in, the real work began. I disconnected everything, yanked the engine out with a hoist, and got it set up on a stand. The transmission soared out of there like it had tickets to a circus audition, straight onto a pallet where it belongs. It’s not your everyday procedure, but hey, I’ll take an easy win when I can get one. But here’s my favorite part: with the dust settled, my 4-year-old stepped in to help manhandle the husk of a chassis and get it parked outside. Seeing her take charge of that big frame was a perfect way to cap off the day.

And now, standing here next to the 351, I’m pumped to finally say we’re ready to tear it down and turn it into the 408 stroker that I’ve been dreaming about. This is the first chapter in an epic saga that promises grease, grit, and enough excitement to keep us all on the edge of our creepers. Let’s get started!

Hello! So today, my goal is to get the drive shaft off, drain the transmission fluid, and drain the oil out of the engine so I could prep to move this thing. If I’ve got time, I might change that front wheel too. So this is a two-piece drive shaft. You can see it goes through a mount point there in the middle, back to the pumpkin, and then, of course, up to the transmission. So, uh, back here, I know I just take these 12-point bolts off here, knock her loose, and drop her down. Um, I’m not sure how to get that off of there, and the transmission just, you just yank out of there. So let’s see if I can, uh, get that figured out.

All right, now that that’s dropped down, I’m going to go back here and, uh, take it off the diff. All right, so now I’ll just yank her out of there and get it out of the way, and I’ll figure out how to separate the two parts of the drive shaft later. It does—there we go. Where’s the drain plug in this son? That can’t be it, there can it? I guess we look it up. All right, so learning stuff every day, guys. It turns out that the E4OD transmission here does not have a drain plug on the pan. A common modification that some folks do is to put a drain plug down underneath there. You just drill a hole and pop a plug in. Um, I might do that, but I think that would get—I would get myself pretty messy drilling a hole in the bottom of the thing full of fluid. I guess it takes like, like four gallons of fluid. Holy hell! All right, well, so I gotta figure out how to drain this thing, and I think I’m just going to end up cracking some bolts on the pan down here and, uh, letting some of it drain out that way. You also have to drain the converter, and there’s a plug up here, uh, underneath for that, and so I have to do that. But it’s a much bigger job than I was anticipating for today. Um, and unfortunately, I don’t have a pan big enough, so I’m going to have to go out and get me a much bigger fluid pan underneath this thing because I don’t want all this transmission fluid spilling all over my nice gravel here, even though I’ve already got quite a bit. And, uh, so, uh, that kind of wraps it for today for me. Uh, I’ll be back, but I think I’m going to go ahead and change this tire out real quick first, uh, so I can at least accomplish something.

Well, guys, today is the day. I’ve got the donor chassis moved out from where it’s been sitting for the last 4 years, right in front of the garage. I’m getting ready to pull this thing into the garage. I’m going to pull this engine and this transmission, and I’m going to bring you along for the whole thing. If you’re new here, this is what I call the donor. I call it that because this engine here is going to be pulled, rebuilt, turned into a 408 stroker. It’s a 351 Windsor right now, turned into a 408 stroker and stuck in that truck right over there eventually. The first step is obviously to get it off of this chassis and tear it down, take a look at it, see what’s going on inside, and then get it off to a machine shop to do all that stuff. But before I can do that, I gotta get it off of here, so I’m all prepared for that. My last video, I took all the accessories and stuff off and, uh, did a little bit of calculation to see how much money I made from that stuff, and this time, like I said, we’re pulling it into the garage, and we’re going to start lifting this engine off and getting it on a stand.

So the first thing I’m going to do is use the new system that I just put into my garage with my, uh, garage floor anchor and the hitch mount that I put in there. I got another video on how I did that. You can come along and, by myself, yank this thing into the garage so that we can get a cherry picker in here and start pulling this engine. Once I’ve got it in the garage, I’ll be putting a jack stand underneath the transmission so the transmission will stay where it is. You gotta block that thing up so that when you disconnect the engine, uh, the transmission doesn’t just flop over or bend your frame, bend the crossmember as you pull the engine out. So, uh, I’m going to do that, and then once I’ve got the transmission, uh, blocked up, I’ll go ahead and start, uh, undoing the engine mount bolts and take this sucker off.

All right, kid, ready for this? Yeah! All right, chat it up, attach it up, attat it. I’m attaching it right here. Hey, come here, you want to try this? Yeah, okay. All you do is just go like this, just move it back and forth. Oh, okay, okay, just be careful with it. All the way back, all the way down, all the way, and then back. It’s a bun! It is! You’re moving a huge vehicle! Look at that! Oh boy, it’s not going up! The bun, it will! Oh, hey Dad, look at you! I can’t, I can’t touch that Fortran hair! Okay, look out, girls! Dad, how did you do that? I didn’t know you could do that! I didn’t know that! Holy moly! Yeah, I think that’s far enough. What do you think? That’s good! That’s good! Heh, put them behind the back wheels, okay? And you put yours behind the front wheels, okay? Okay, good job, good job! Okay, this one, put that one in front. Why? Well, that one will keep you from going forward, just in case.

All right, guys, now that I’ve got this truck in the garage, or what’s left of this truck in the garage, it’s time to support the transmission before I pull the engine. Now, I’m sure most of you guys already know this; it was news to me when I first started out in this whole adventure. The front of the transmission is only supported by its connection to the engine, so there’s nothing underneath the transmission here holding it to the frame of the truck. Now, in the back, there is a crossmember here that holds up the transmission, but the front, there’s nothing. So if you pull the engine without supporting the front of the transmission, it’ll bend down and bend your crossmember and do all kinds of crazy stuff, right? So you’ve got to support the front of your transmission. I am just going to use a jack stand for this. Uh, it’s super simple. Everything that I’m doing here is actually really simple because everything is removed, but it’s kind of cool because now it allows you to kind of see everything that’s going on. So, uh, I got my jack stand and kind of figured out the height here, and it is almost at one click the perfect height to support this transmission. All I gotta do is just jack the truck up just a little bit and get that jack stand under there. So I’m going to go ahead and do that. I’m just going to use a bottle jack for this. Now, I don’t have to go up very much because this jack stand clicked at the first clicker in there is actually just about exactly the right height to go into the—so I just got to come up like less than half an inch to get it up there. And there we go! And now lower this down, I should be pretty tight. So for extra support, I’m also putting my bottle jack with a block of wood underneath the transmission pan. Uh, this I’ve never done this before, so I want to make sure I’m not missing anything, that I’m not going to, um, you know, supporting this this way isn’t enough or, uh, that it wobbles or anything when I’m trying to pull the engine off or anything. So I just want to make sure that I’m good and supported here. So that’s what I’m going to do. I’m just going to go ahead and, uh, support the oil pan area as well with a little bit of pressure, and that way I should be good to go.

And so the next thing that I’m going to do is take the bolts out. What? I’ve never done that before either! Yep, there it is, almost ready to go. See, in this way, since I’ve got this tight, if there’s any wiggling or whatever when I disconnect these, that way this will hold it because you don’t want to leave anything to chance when you’re pulling an engine. This is how you move it; you hold on to this and you push it around. Wow! I a try! Okay, so here we are all hooked up. I just want to kind of show you guys how I have this set up. So this is, uh, obviously a plate that I bought that fits the EFI version of the intake for the 351 Windsor. Uh, fits a bunch of different engines, but it does fit this one. And then I bought a load leveler just to make sure that, uh, nothing goes squirrely on me. And I put the load leveler, uh, chain hooks here through the, uh, the plate that I got. And what this is actually going to allow me to do is, is this—you can’t really do it now because it’s pretty tight, but this can actually move back and forth. There we go! And it lets the engine kind of wiggle and sway, um, if I needed to. And these are tight enough that they’re not going to come loose, but, uh, I might tighten them up a little bit more just to make sure they don’t wiggle too loose. But this should, uh, allow the engine a lot of free movement so it’s easier for me to get on my stand. So that’s how I got that set up. I have to disconnect the, uh, engine from the transmission.

I need to sleep! You need to sleep? I need to sleep too, kid! Tired? Yeah! Back later! Okay, bye-bye, stinker! Bye, stinker! All right, now that I’ve got the transmission, uh, properly supported and my engine is also supported, I’m going to go ahead and, uh, disconnect the transmission from the engine. I can’t tell you how much easier this is going to be without the chassis and stuff everywhere. Uh, this is like a cakewalk compared to doing it with, uh, you know, a vehicle with all the stuff on it. But, uh, this is my first time ever doing it, so I’m actually really happy that I have this set up like this, um, so I can kind of, you know, cut my teeth on something much simpler. It also gives me an opportunity to show you guys from a very clear angle exactly how this is going to work. So, uh, here we go! I’m going to go ahead and start unloosening the bolts that, uh, keep this thing attached to the engine. I don’t know if my impact would work. Let me see. It’s not a very powerful impact. Ooh, that’s a lot easier! Thanks! So when you guys watch my videos, you’ll notice that I almost always use hand tools and very rarely use power tools for this kind of stuff. I think one of that’s lack of experience and, uh, also because I don’t really have a lot of great power tools. This is the only impact driver that I’ve got, and it’s not air. Eventually, I’d like to get an air impact, some air tools, but right now all I’ve got is this one. But actually, it seems to be working out pretty well, so I will keep using it. I can’t get out of there, so I got a little overzealous. Instead of taking these bolts out, what I really need to do is get underneath there, um, and take off the inspection plate from the bottom of the transmission so I can get the torque converter unbolted and then take the starter off as well. So I’m going to go ahead and work on that. So let’s see if we can get this starter out of here. He’s already got unplugged there. Only just two bolts to it. I don’t know, I ain’t never done this before! Here, that size, you are half inch. Should probably distract those lines. This is a little easier. I’ll let you know when I pull the engine, okay?

All right, now that those lines are out of the way, makes it a bit easier, and there is the starter out, kind of. All right, well, now that the starter is out of there, uh, I can work on the inspection cover of the transmission. Y’all, all right, damn it! That’s a good way to round off both heads. Ah, this is easier! We’re sa—some time from the start. No, you gotta be lazy! Y la, you bastard! Here, look at that! Ooh, I got one right there!

All right, guys, sorry for the glare coming through my garage door. Uh, I gotta leave it open ’cause the truck won’t fit all the way in, so this is what it is. But here you can see the flex plate that’s, uh, actually attached to the engine on one side and the torque converter on the other. Now, I want to disconnect this from the torque converter so the torque converter stays with the transmission and the flex plate stays with the engine. So that’s, uh, this right here is a flex plate. You can see the teeth here that engage with a starter as it turns, right? And there’s, I believe, there’s four of these nuts on here that I gotta get off, right? There’s one there, and you can see one right there as well. But you really want to get to them from through this inspection cover here. And so what I’m going to do is I’m going to go ahead and take this one here off since it’s available to me, and then you turn the engine over with a breaker bar or, uh, you know, a socket set depending on how tough your engine is to turn. Mine is really easy ’cause it’s disconnected from everything. And, uh, get to where you can get another bolt, and you just turn it until you got all four, and then the flex plate is disconnected from the torque converter, and you should be able to just, uh, yank the transmission off or the engine in my case. Oh, that turns on me, does it? All right, so that means I gotta get something in here to keep this from loov. Gotcha! Come on, man! Oh man, these are a pain! One! All right, now we go! Turn the engine! There we go! Blop! All right, flex plate disconnected!

All right, it is time to undo the engine mount bolts. Let’s see if I can get this done. All right, let’s see if we can break her loose. All right, there’s one! All right, guys, I gotta move you out of the way so you don’t get creamed. See if that was enough. Okay, I think she’d be free. Nope! I’m just getting this plate and wiring harness out of the way to make it easier to move around and pull the stuff when the time comes. Also, I don’t want to crunch any of this stuff, and I’m strapping up the transmission to take off the chassis, so just get it out of the way. No dice! Anybody wants to buy me a pneumatic impact for Christmas? Dear Santa, I’ve been a good boy this year!

All right, here we go! Let’s see if I can pull it loose. I’m not quite out of the mount yet. All right, I’m off the mounts now. See if I can get off the transmission without dropping the transmission on the floor here. Oh, I missed one! Missed one bolt right there! Right, and off it comes! That’s been a long time coming to get that engine off of there, but it is finally free!

All right, now that I got the engine off, I’m going to go ahead and, uh, drop this transmission down so that it rests on top of my jack here, just to give it a place to go until I’m ready to actually take it off and move it somewhere else. All right, transmission secure! Now to mount the engine to the stand. All right, let’s see if my impact will take this flex plate off. Looks like a big old no! Santa, if you’re there, air impact gun! All right, now can I get them on? If you had the right size, Ed, maybe! But who knows where you put the right size ’cause you’re always laying tools all over the damn place and not picking them up and putting them where they should be? Let’s see if I can get my breaker on the front of this thing and keep it from moving. Gotcha! Woo! That’s a tight SOB! Uhhuh! One more! Come on! Gotcha! And that’s the flex plate sorted. The, uh, what’s the plate that sits between the engine and the flex plate called? That plate is called the engine spacer plate, or sometimes just the block plate. It sits between the engine block and the flex plate or flywheel and serves a few key purposes: one, alignment; it helps ensure the starter motor meshes properly with the flex plate’s teeth. Two, protection; it acts as a shield to prevent debris from entering the area around the torque converter or flywheel. Three, spacing; it provides the correct spacing for the torque converter and transmission. You want to keep it in good shape, no dents or warping, since a damaged spacer plate can cause alignment issues with the starter or transmission running as a go.

All right, spacer plate off! All right, boys and girls, I think it’s time to get this thing on the stand. That’s probably about right; we’ll leave it there for now. Now, a good friend of mine, my brother-in-law as a matter of fact, gave me a little tip. He said that the best way to do this is to actually take this mounting plate off of your engine stand and mount it to the engine while it’s on your hoist. That way, it’s much easier to line up to the stand; you just slide it right in. So that’s what I’m going to do. I went to a local hardware store. Unfortunately, my Lowe’s and Home Depot didn’t have this stuff. Your mileage may vary on that count; our Lowe’s here is horrible. Uh, anyway, and I got these bolts to mount the, uh, the mount plate to the engine. These are 7/16 by 3 and 1/2 in. Now, these are grade eight bolts. Um, you don’t need grade eight bolts for this. Uh, there’s not going to be any real, you know, sheer forces or any kind of bumping or wiggling or anything on this while you’re out on the stand; you’re just rotating it around. So it doesn’t need to be super strong. Grade five is probably even overkill, uh, but grade eight’s not that much more expensive, so I went ahead and got that. And I’ve got some washers here just for spacers in case, uh, I don’t go in far enough into here. I’m not exactly sure how deep these are, so we’re going to find out.

All right, guys, so if you’re using a Harbor Freight engine stand like I am, then your configuration is like this: you got the two flat slides on top, the two slanty slides on the bottom. I will get these, uh, put in where they got to go and tightened up here, but, uh, yeah, that’s the configuration you’re looking for. This part may be a challenge. Yeah, unfortunately, my legs aren’t letting me do what I want to do here. That’s going to be hard to get the legs down. O, I almost got it! So how am I going to do this part? I’m going to put that brick under there to keep this from falling down sideways when I put the weight on it. We’ll see how that works. Now let’s take it real slow, okay? One thing at a time here, get that up so I can get this down. Don’t try this at home, kids! Success! I’m on the engine stand!

So here is my janky transmission. B-rich, just some ratchet straps in my leveler. Uh, transmission door near as heavy as the engine. Spot fly 170, and, uh, out myber P just going to lift it up, read it over to the side, then back to chassis out. So, uh, I’m not going to mess with it very much up in the air, so hopefully, I like problem with this. Uh, we’re going to find out ’cause I’m about to unbolt it this thing. Now, this is going to be very significantly tied without the edge of the transmission, so I’m not that worried about manling disconnected. So now that the, uh, transmission’s out and chassis is out of the way, the garage is open up again. I can, uh, move my transmission onto a pallet back here so that I can put it up on Craigslist and give her soul. I for an e-war would be automatic transmission, and even if I get someday, that someday is so far away, but it’s not worth it to be three to store. I can try to—well, I know you can’t move it. Want to see if I can move it? Oh, you think you can move it with me? Yeah, it’s strong! Look at you! Think it’s strong? You’re good! All right, wait for me! Hey, wait up! Push hard! Push hard! Ready? Okay, here! Okay, right there! Okay, okay, to push back! Okay, y push! Push! Run away from me! Oh, look! Are you nice? I’m surprised! Are you really? Yes! K! Yep! I need to hold it! Can I do one? Get get him! I’m going to tell Mom! Okay, you go tell Mom! I’m going this way! Okay, you go that way! And that wraps it up! Got the engine out, got the transmission out, ready to go! Stick around because for the next episode, I’m going to be tearing this thing down, taking stuff off, going through it with a fine-tooth comb, and showing you exactly what everything is, what it does, how the engine works, and what to look for when you’re rebuilding your own. So if you’re interested in that kind of stuff, make sure you like and subscribe and stick around for that because, uh, that’s what’s coming up next! Man, I can’t wait! I can’t wait to start building this thing into a 408 monster that’s going to go in my Bullnose God! That’s a dream I’ve been looking forward to for a long time! Guys, if you’re with me on this journey, if you want to see more of this kind of stuff, like I said, give me a like, give me a subscribe! It really does help me out! If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below! Thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time! She’s around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine! That no garage, she’s considered! Thanks again for watching! We will see you next time! Thanks again for watching! We will see you next time!