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Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. What’s big, bad, and makes other V8s look like they skipped leg day? That’s right, it’s the Ford 460 big block. If brute force, jaw-dropping torque, and an engine that dominates on any road sounds good to you, buckle up. Today, we’re breaking down the legendary Ford 460. Whether it’s turning heads at a stoplight, hauling massive loads, tearing up the drag strip, or just cruising, this gas-powered behemoth can do it all.

Introduced in 1968, the 460 V8, aka the 7.5 L, has ruled streets, highways, and job sites for decades. Whether it was powering the iconic F-series trucks or hauling the Lincoln Continental’s massive luxury frame, the 460 earned its reputation for serious pulling power. Keep watching because we’re drilling down into everything you need to know, including the 460 specs, performance potential, and the killer mods that still make it a builder’s dream.

Now, while small blocks like the 302 or 351 Windsor love to rev high, the 460 plays a different game, delivering brute force where it counts: low-end torque. Forget high redlines; this beast is built to move trailers, boats, or whatever you hitch up to. Even though it retired in ’97, the 460 is still a go-to for modern builds, off-roading, drag racing, or swapping into a classic truck for some extra heft.

The 460 made its debut in 1968 as part of Ford’s 385 engine family alongside the 429 and 370. The name comes from the 3.85 in stroke, not because it was a 385 engine, which there isn’t. The 460 had a different role than its 429 sibling, which was more performance-oriented. Ford needed an engine that could provide massive low-end torque for their full-size trucks and larger vehicles. As a result, the 460 became a staple in Ford’s heavy-duty lineup, known for its ability to haul practically anything you could throw at it. It found its way into both trucks and luxury cars, starting with models like the Lincoln Continental and Ford Thunderbird.

The engine design made it ideal for towing and hauling while also delivering smooth power in those early ’70s land yachts. But as the ’70s rolled on, stricter emissions regulations started hitting the entire auto industry. Like most engines of the era, the 460 got hit hard. Compression ratios dropped, and so did horsepower, from around 365 to much lower numbers by the late ’70s. Even with the drop in horsepower, the 460 still packed enough torque to stay in demand, powering trucks, RVs, and motor homes well into the ’90s.

Here’s a quick look at the vehicles that rolled off the factory floor with the 460 under the hood. Towing a trailer or boat, the 460 won’t even flinch. That’s why you’ll still find these engines in old RVs and motor homes. They were built for the long haul, and decades later, they’re still cruising down highways on road trips.

Like many of Ford’s engines, from 1983 onward, Ford switched to a one-piece rear main seal, reducing oil leaks—an improvement over the early rear two-piece seal. This makes rebuilds easier and cleaner. In 1979, Ford changed the 460’s balance from internal to external, shifting some of the balancing work to the flywheel or flex plate and harmonic damper, which was a cost-saving measure. By the 1990s, Ford introduced EFI, or electronic fuel injection, enhancing throttle response and improving fuel control, especially on trucks and RVs. These changes made the later 460s more user-friendly for modern driving while maintaining their legendary torque output.

Let’s dig into the specs because the 460 brings some serious numbers to the table. The 460 lives up to its name with 460 cubic inches, or 7.5 L, of displacement. It’s got a 4.36 in bore and a 3.85 in stroke, both of which contribute to the low-end pulling power this engine is known for. Early 460s from ’68 to ’71 had a high 10.5 to 1 compression ratio, delivering around 365 horsepower and 485 lb-ft of torque. However, the ’70s brought new challenges; emissions regulations forced Ford to drop that to around 8.01, cutting back output to around 220 horses and 350 lb-ft torque today. Raising compression with new pistons or upgrading the cam is a common way to restore or increase performance. The height stayed consistent at 10.32 in throughout production.

In terms of dimensions, the 460 measures roughly 34 in long, 27 in wide, and about 30 in high. It’s a large displacement engine that fits well in trucks and large vehicles but might need some creative work to fit into smaller engine bays. As for weight, the 460 tips the scales at around 720 lbs with its cast iron block and heads. That’s part of what makes it so tough, but you’ll definitely want to consider that if you’re planning a swap into something small. The firing order follows the standard Ford V8 sequence: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. As for oil capacity, the 460 holds about 6 quarts, filter included. If you’re running it hard or towing, consider upgrading to a larger oil pan for better cooling.

Now about the crankshaft. Factory 460s came with a cast iron crankshaft, which is plenty strong for most applications. But if you’re chasing high performance, upgrading to a Ford steel crank is the best move for peace of mind. The 460 is known for its sturdiness, and with the right upgrades, it’s capable of cranking out far more power than it had from the factory. Builders can push these engines into the 600 to 700 horsepower range fairly easily. Add forged internals, high flow heads, and a beefed-up valve train, and the 460 turns into a force to be reckoned with on the street or at the strip.

Even though the 460, 429, and 370 all came from Ford’s 385 engine family, each one was designed with a different purpose in mind. The 460 is designed to haul serious weight effortlessly. It has the longest stroke of the bunch at 3.85 in. Pair that with a big bore, and you’ve got an engine perfect for getting massive trucks and RVs up to speed without needing to rev too high. It was also used in those land yachts I mentioned, like the Lincoln Continental, where the only thing bigger than the engine was the back seat. The 429, on the other hand, is all about performance. It shares the same 4.36 in bore as the 460, but it has a shorter 3.59 in stroke, making it ideal for high-revving performance. This engine was perfect for muscle cars like the Mustang and Torino, where top-end horsepower mattered most. The Cobra Jet and Boss 429 became legends for a reason, built to wind up quicker and push harder at higher RPMs. If you’re chasing speed and high RPM thrills, the 429’s shorter stroke is your ticket.

Then there’s the 370, the all-reliable of the family, with a smaller 4.05 in bore and the same 3.59 in stroke as the 429. The 370 wasn’t built for speed or heavy pulling; instead, it was designed to handle the grunt work in medium-duty trucks and industrial applications. The 370 is the engine you’d find in a vehicle that needs to keep running day in and day out. It’s not about speed or flash; it’s about showing up every single day.

Here’s a fun fact and a useful tip for engine builders: the 429 and 460 blocks are basically identical. The real difference comes down to the crankshaft and pistons. So if you’re assembling either engine from the ground up, it doesn’t really matter if you start with a 429 or a 460 block. If you’re swapping out the internals, you could take the crank and pistons from a 460, fit them into a 429, and you’ve got your 460. The bore size is the same, 4.36 in, but the stroke is what sets them apart. The 429 has a 3.59 in stroke, and the 460 stretches that out to 3.85 in. Now, to be fair, it’s not quite that simple when you start talking about internal versus external balance, heads, and intakes, but overall, the blocks are identical. The takeaway for performance builds is that either block gives you a solid foundation, and the internals decide if you’re working on a 429 or 460.

So how do you tell them all apart? Well, telling the 460, 429, and 370 apart isn’t always easy, especially with the 429 and 460 since they’re nearly identical on the outside. Fortunately, there are reliable ways to tell them apart using casting numbers and internal components. One of the easiest ways to spot a 370 block is by checking the casting numbers. Since it was cast from a different mold with a smaller 4.05 in bore, the 370 has unique casting numbers. Look for D9TE-DBB, which is specific to the 1979 to 1984 truck blocks and identifies a 370. This makes it easier to distinguish from the 429 or 460. But with the 429 and 460, things get more complicated. These two share the same block casting with identical numbers like C8VE, D0VE, and D1VE, so casting numbers alone won’t help you tell them apart.

To distinguish a 429 from a 460, you’ll need to inspect the crankshaft markings or measure the stroke. Ford stamped alphanumeric codes on the crankshaft counterweights. For 429, look for codes like 4U, 4UA, or 4UAB. For 460, look for 2Y, 2YA, 2YB, 3Y, or something similar. Another clue is on the 460 crankshaft; there’s an embossed nodule between the first main journal and the counterweight, which makes it an obvious identifier once the oil pan is off. But the most reliable way is probably just to measure the stroke. The 429 has a 3.59 in stroke, while the 460 stretches it out to 3.85 in. Measuring the stroke gives you a definitive answer, especially if the other methods leave any doubt.

Additionally, the 370 often used different exhaust manifolds due to its industrial and truck applications. The manifolds were generally more restricted, built for durability rather than performance. In contrast, the 429s and 460s built for performance often had larger manifolds or headers to maximize airflow.

The Ford 460 commands serious respect in the performance world, and for good reason. Its strong block, large displacement, and massive aftermarket catalog make it an awesome platform for builders looking to unlock more power or create a high-performance beast. Whether you want mild upgrades or a full overhaul, the 460 can handle just about anything you throw at it.

One of the first upgrades many builders go for is improving airflow. The stock 460 comes with cast iron heads, which are heavy and restrictive. Swapping them out for aluminum heads from brands like Edelbrock or Trick Flow is a popular move. These heads offer far better airflow and can boost horsepower significantly. Plus, they shave a lot of weight off the front end. For those who want to go all out, stroker kits are the way to go. A stroker kit bumps up displacement by using a longer stroke crankshaft, and in the 460’s case, you can push it to 514 cubic inches or more. These kits usually come with a new crankshaft, rods, and pistons. With a stroker kit, expect massive gains in low-end torque and horsepower, turning that 460 into a freight train of guts and glory.

Now, Ford equipped 460s with hydraulic flat tappet lifters from the factory, but unlike its small block cousins, the 460 doesn’t need block modification to accept a roller cam and roller lifters. This means you can literally grab a roller cam and lifters off the shelf and drop them in, giving you more options and more aggressive profiles. But keep in mind that the 460 wasn’t designed for roller lifters, and the taller lifters can cause geometry issues, which increase wear over time. This is mostly a problem with hydraulic roller lifters along with aggressive cam profiles. So if you’re going roller, it’s best to either run solid roller lifters or keep your cam on the milder side.

Another popular mod is converting a carbureted 460 to fuel injection. While stock 460s in the ’70s and ’80s were carbureted, Ford switched to EFI in the ’90s. EFI conversions provide smoother performance, better fuel efficiency, and more precise tuning. Aftermarket systems like Holley Sniper or FiTech make the swap pretty much a breeze. But if you like to go old school and you’re sticking with a carburetor, upgrading to a larger performance carb is a common move. Stock carbs can be limited, so upgrading to something like a Holley 750 CFM or 850 CFM helps feed the big 460 more fuel and air, which means more power.

Exhaust upgrades are another area where the 460 responds well, and you’ll see a big impact. Installing headers is a common mod that improves airflow and reduces exhaust restrictions. Headers help scavenge exhaust gases more efficiently, which boosts horsepower and torque. Pair them with a free-flowing exhaust system, delivering a serious power boost and an aggressive growl.

Now, if you really want to go all out and you’re looking to push the 460’s upper limits, adding a supercharger or turbocharger takes things to a whole other level. A supercharged 460 can make insane horsepower gains, especially when paired with other mods like aluminum heads, performance cam, and a stroker kit. Turbocharging is less common but still a solid option if you want to force even more air into the engine and extract every last bit of power. Just make sure that your drivetrain can keep up; a stranded driveshaft makes for a really bad day.

So after all that aftermarket pillow talk, are you thinking of swapping a 460 into your ride? Well, swapping a 460 is a popular choice for lots of vehicles. Classic Ford trucks, especially F-series models from the ’70s and ’80s, or even older ones like the F100, are a common fit. The 460 turns those trucks into off-road bruisers or worksite powerhouses. Some builders even drop a 460 into Fox Body Mustangs, though it’s not common for brutal straight-line performance. The 460’s versatility makes it a great option for hot rods and custom builds as well. Muscle cars like the Ford Torino or Mercury Cougar also benefit from a 460 swap. No matter where you put it, the 460 brings the muscle.

So clearly, the appeal of swapping a 460 in can’t be denied. It’s one of the largest displacement engines Ford ever made, and that means tons of power and torque, even stock. There’s also the bragging rights; having the biggest gas engine Ford ever put in standard vehicles under your hood is undeniably cool. It delivers massive performance while staying true to the Ford family. What’s not to love?

Well, there are a few skeletons in the 460’s closet, namely weight, size, and fuel economy. While you’re probably not thinking about saving gas if you’re swapping in a 460, keep in mind that big blocks are famous for guzzling fuel, and the 460 is as big as they come. And while the 460 delivers tons of power, swapping it into vehicles that weren’t originally designed for it comes with a few challenges. As I’ve said just once or twice, the 460 is a big engine. You might need to modify the engine bay or frame to make it fit. Trucks and larger vehicles handle it better, but smaller cars may need fabrication. Also, many transmissions can’t handle the 460’s torque, so upgrading to something stronger is often a must, like a C6 automatic or a modern overdrive transmission like the 4R100 or E4OD.

Also, the 460 generates a lot of heat, so upgrading to a heavy-duty radiator, electric fans, and a beefed-up water pump can be almost a requirement, especially in tight engine bays with limited airflow. Depending on the vehicle, you might also need a custom oil pan to clear the suspension or crossmember. And when it comes to exhaust clearance, headers and manifolds could run into issues, especially in smaller bays, meaning you may need custom exhaust work.

The good news is that there are plenty of swap kits available to make the process easier. Companies like L&L Products and Advanced Adapters offer motor mounts, headers, and other components to help fit a 460 into older Ford trucks or custom applications. They typically include almost everything you need to simplify the swap and avoid extensive fabrication work.

And here’s a fun fact: believe it or not, some builders have even squeezed 460s into Ford Rangers. Now, it’s not an easy fit, but with some modifications to the firewall and frame, the lightweight Ranger paired to the 460 turns it into a wild street truck or drag truck. Swapping a big block into a smaller vehicle like the Ranger offers crazy power-to-weight ratios and, shall we say, a unique driving experience.

As I said just a moment ago, pairing a transmission with a Ford 460 requires something that can handle its substantial torque. The C6 automatic is one of the most common choices, famous for handling massive torque. The C6 was a factory option for many 460-equipped vehicles, especially trucks and larger sedans. It’s a three-speed automatic and one of the most bulletproof transmissions Ford ever made. It’s a good choice for stock or mildly modified 460s. It handles most power upgrades with ease and is widely available, making it common for builds where simplicity and reliability matter the most. But being only three speeds, it’s not great for fuel economy or cruising on the highway.

To help solve that, the E4OD and 4R100 are also popular options. Both are heavy-duty automatics with overdrive, making them great for street-driven builds and towing alike. These transmissions were factory paired with the 460 in Ford’s F-series trucks and E-series vans during the early and late ’90s, respectively. The 4R100, introduced later, is an upgraded version of the E4OD with better internals. Both transmissions offer the C6’s low-end torque handling plus the bonus of overdrive.

While it’s less common, some builders actually opt for a manual transmission with the V8. The T56 Magnum or TKO600 are popular options for those who want full control of the power. As always, it’s important to remember that swapping in a manual transmission means you’ll need a clutch setup, proper bell housing, and pedal modifications if you’re converting from an automatic.

The Ford 460 wasn’t just made for hauling heavy loads or sitting under the hood of RVs; it was built to leave a mark, and it definitely has. Decades after production ended, the 460 still dominates in classic truck restorations and performance builds, cementing its reputation as one of the toughest, most versatile big blocks out there. In the world of restorations, the 460 reigns supreme, powering old school F-series trucks or breathing new life into vintage RVs. This engine is still trusted to handle any job you throw at it. Its reputation as a reliable, torque-heavy engine is set in stone. This engine never gives up, and neither do the people who rely on it.

But let’s not forget the 460’s legacy isn’t just about work; it’s about power. Performance builders love it because once you dig into a 460, it offers limitless potential. Looking for a tire-shredding, quarter-mile scorching beast? 460s gotta cover. This engine still powers drag cars, hot rods, and even some unexpected swap pops. Why? Because it delivers the kind of muscle that turns heads and leaves the competition in the dust.

So after all that, what keeps it relevant? Well, it’s pretty simple: aftermarket support and a dedicated army of builders. Parts are still readily available to rebuild or upgrade this engine into whatever fits your dream build. Whether it’s a street cruiser, towing workhorse, or custom racer, the 460 isn’t some relic; it’s a living legend. For anyone chasing big power or classic torque, the 460 is still hard to beat. Whether it’s pulling trailers or leaving rubber on the road, this engine’s mix of brute strength and upgrade potential guarantees a lasting spot in the hearts and engine bays of enthusiasts for years to come.

So there you go, guys. That’s everything I know, or pretend to know, about the Ford 460 big block. Hopefully, you learned something about it today. If you did, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that. Go out and buy yourself a cool hat to help support the channel. Hey, you know, make sure you drop a comment if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings—stick them below. If I got something wrong, please let me know. I’ll pin a comment to the top and correct myself. I got no problem doing that. Uh, guys, like I said, I hope you learned something. I hope you enjoy the channel. Thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.

She’s rough around the edges, but you’re doing fine. Take her away, getting that shine at Bullnose Garage. She’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We’ll see you next time. Thanks to Dan for watching. We’ll see you next time.

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today I’ve got a bit of a problem, and that problem is right back here. It’s this thing. Obviously, it doesn’t run. How am I going to move this from here into there, past all this? And I’ve got, I mean, it’s not real bad, right? But it’s a little bit of an incline there, and that thing is really heavy. So how am I going to get that into the garage?

All right, well, don’t you worry, guys, because I’ve got a plan. It involves a little bit of ingenuity, a come-along, and some new toys. Hello!

All right, so aside from my garage being a real mess, what’s the problem? Well, obviously, I can hook that chassis up to my newer F-150 and tow it out of there. That’s not a problem. I can move the camper, get it out of the way, use my other truck to tow it up. Right? If I had to, I can swap the wheel. I got the wheels from my ’85 that I took off a long time ago, and they’ll bolt right up. Same bolt pattern, so that’s not an issue. Um, and moving it, you know, once it’s in gear isn’t really that hard, although it’s really hard for one person. The hard part is how to get it in here because there’s a little bit of an incline, uh, out in front of the garage, as you saw. And then how do you get it up the incline and into the garage?

Now, like I said before, I’m a one-man show here, right? And, um, I could ask my wife to help me, but you know, that gets sketchy. And she’s a great helper, but she’s also going to watch the kids, and you know, I don’t like asking for help. So I want to figure out how to do it myself, and that’s what I’m going to do.

So unfortunately, I can’t tow it into the garage. There’s no way to obviously hook up a tow vehicle and get the tow vehicle in here. And then, I mean, maybe I could go through this door and do some weird stuff out in the backyard, but there’s a patio back here and a lot of stuff, so that’s not really an option. Uh, now I could hook up a come-along over here somewhere, but I got nowhere to hook it. You know, I mean, you can’t hook it to the wall, tear the wall down, right? I got nothing in the floor to hook it to except, so try to ignore the dirty floor, guys. But this is the plan.

I got myself a bolt-on hitch receiver. Usually, these are for bolting to a bumper or underneath a vehicle chassis, uh, but in this case, I’m going to be bolting to the floor of my garage. And then I got this handy-dandy shackle, which will go in there, mount right up, and then I can use a come-along right here, and that should be able to get that chassis in here without a problem.

Now, the chassis itself is going to be heavier than the load rating of whatever this is going to be bolted to the floor, but because it’s a rolling chassis, a lot of that weight is going to be transferred to the wheels and going down because of gravity. So I shouldn’t be pulling nearly the weight of the chassis. It’s just, uh, the weight that takes the chassis to move forward. And before I move it, I’m going to take all the driveline stuff off, uh, so the transmission is not even going to be in play. It’ll just roll.

All right, so what’s the plan for this? How is this going to work? How am I going to get this onto the concrete? Well, I’ve already got a couple spacers here, uh, all set, just the little rulers to space away from the wall. And what I’m going to use are these. These are threaded concrete anchors, and you drill a hole into your concrete. This is the correct size bit for these. Drop these in. The set comes with a, uh, a hammer punch that you go inside here with. You hammer it down, it spreads these little wings out on the bottom, sticks it into the concrete. And now once you got that done, you’ve got, I’ll have four of these threaded anchors. And then when I want to mount this guy, I just bolt them down just like so. And when I don’t want him here, I can take them off, and I can thread in these. And once I get them down all the way, these should go flush to this, so it caps it off so dirt and debris doesn’t get inside of there. Yet it’s smooth so that I’m not going to stub my toe on it when I’m walking into the garage. Not that I would walk over here very much, but still, uh, it’s good to make it look nice and flush.

So that’s the plan. First, I just got to mark where my holes are going to go, and then I got to drill them. So I don’t really have a good punch that’ll go down through concrete that, um, I’m okay with sacrificing for this. I’m just going to use a, uh, a big lag screw. All right, and that thing is trash, but it served its purpose.

Okay, so a couple things to note. A cordless drill is not the perfect choice for this. This is a hammer drill, so it does work, um, but it just takes a little bit longer than like an actual, uh, corded hammer drill or like a real nice setup. But it’s what I’ve got, so it should work. You want to make sure you get out as much dust from inside here as you can. That’s why I’m running the vacuum and blowing it out with some compressed air. Um, I’m just using an air duster, but you could use an actual air compressor if you have one. I just don’t feel like firing mine up, so let’s drop this in and see how it works. Almost there. I think I might go a little bit deeper. There we go. Now I just got to hammer it in. Hammer it till it doesn’t move.

All right, let’s make sure it doesn’t spin. Seems to be doing pretty well, and it’s not moving, so that’s good. And let’s make sure that we’re still on target with our other holes. And we’re not. Okay, so that’s one thing to make sure of is that that thing walked on me a little bit. So I think what I’m going to do is get this spaced and bolted with the one hole that I’ve got started, make sure that I’m the same distance from the wall on both sides, and then I’m going to remark these other hole locations, and I’m going to pre-drill them with a smaller masonry bit because this bit I’ve got here will not go through these holes. It’s too big for that.

All right, I got my holes started where they’re going to be, and now I just got to drill them out. All right, so I got this hole here done, and I got a couple more here. Um, pretty much pretty close to being done. It’s slow going with this cordless drill, but, um, doing what I can. I’ve had to stop and charge my batteries, so this is day two. That side’s just the one, and I’m not, yeah, well, let’s see. Can I get that one? No. So these are not super precise, and these holes are exactly the right size on this hitch receiver. And even though I used the hitch receiver as a template, I got a couple of holes that are a little bit not quite where they need to be. So I need to drill this receiver out just a little bit to make these holes bigger so that I can fit all four of these and get them tightened down. So I’m going to go do that, and I’ll be back.

All right, so I got my holes reamed out just one more size on the stepper bit, and hopefully that’s enough to make sure that all these holes line up enough for me to get these bolts in. That is not going anywhere, and now I got something I can hook my cell on to, and I should be able to use this pull that chassis in here lickety-split. And then when I don’t need it anymore, I can just take it out, and now that’s nice and flat. And I can also use these. That’s a little bit of a pain to get down here on all fours and screw and unscrew this, so I honestly don’t know how often I’ll be changing this configuration. This is right up against the back wall of my garage, right next to the back door, and so I don’t really use this space for much of anything. I put my toolbox right next to this, and, uh, other than that, sometimes I lean some stuff up against this wall right here, but I don’t really use this floor spot for anything.

There we go. Now what I’m going to do is I think I’m going to come back here, and there’s some gaps around. Let me, uh, okay, so, uh, you can see here that there are some gaps around where the anchors went in, um, and obviously there’s some busted concrete right here. U busted concrete and epoxy right there to get those down to being flush. So I think what I’m going to do, I think what I’m going to do is I’m actually going to get some, um, rock hard water putty, mix it up, and, uh, fill that, uh, fill around these cracks in with that. And then I can sand it smooth and paint it blue, and with all the flex and everything, you’d never even know that was there.

All right, guys, so in preparation for putting the putty in here, I’m just going to go ahead and thread these down. That way I don’t inadvertently get any putty into the threads, and if the putty does roll all the way up to, uh, where the threads are, I can just unthread these bolts later, and it’ll leave the threads right there in the putty. So, and then when I’m ready, I can sand it down.

Okay, so this, if you’ve never heard of it before, is Durham’s rock hard water putty, and, uh, it’s great stuff for interior projects, filling in holes and gaps. Um, I mean, it’s not going to, uh, carry any kind of a load or hold a load or anything, um, but it does fill in things and, uh, does some pretty good repairs. Just make sure you don’t use it outside because if it rains, it’s water soluble, so it will wash away. So found that out the hard way on a different project.

All right, I don’t need very much. That’ll do to start, and I’m going to want it pretty watery so that I can squirt it in here. Now I’m using a, uh, children’s medicine sorter here because I got a whole bunch of them, and they come in really handy. You know, uh, that’s one nice thing about having kids is you get some stuff you just have laying around for kind of forever anymore. I want it to be just thin enough that I can use it through the syringe. This is not for any kind of structural integrity, just so you know. This is just to, um, cover it up and make it look better so these gaps don’t exist around the edges and so that I can go in later and paint. I mean, it may add just a little bit of structural integrity around the edges, but I don’t, that’s not what I’m doing here for. That’s not why I’m doing it because you can sand this stuff. So once it dries on here, I could sand it all the way down to where the floor is and then paint it, and any sort of structural help it gives me is just a bonus, but I’m not planning on that. These aren’t moving at all in the concrete. Um, I tested that already when I put the, uh, hitch receiver down. I tightened them pretty tight, and they didn’t move at all, so I don’t need any structural help. This is just to make it look nice because I’m kind of a perfectionist.

This is working great. This floor is full of flex anyway, so it really doesn’t matter. Here we are 24 hours later with the, uh, around the holes filled in with the, uh, the rock hard putty, and it is all dry, and it’s pretty close to flat, but not quite all the way there. So I’m going to go ahead and just sand it down, and then I’ve got the same color blue paint that I used on the door here. Uh, it’s not a perfect match, but you wouldn’t even know it from a little ways away, so I’m going to paint that, and then once that’s dry, this project should basically be done.

And there we have the finished product. It may be the prettiest thing ever, but, uh, from far away, you can’t even really see it, and it’s, uh, completely flush with the ground, so I’m not going to trip over it or have anything get snagged on it. Yeah, and so there it is from far away. I mean, if you know what you’re looking for, you can see that it’s there, but other than that, pretty good.

All right, guys, there we go, all done. Uh, pretty simple this time. Just four bolts, four anchors, a hitch receiver, and a shackle, and that’s pretty much all there is to it. Just some time and a hammer drill, you know, you get the idea. So, uh, yeah, hopefully this will allow me to now use a come-along and pull the chassis into the garage. And it’s not just a chassis. At some point, I’ll be pulling the engine out of my F-150, so, uh, that won’t be under its own power for, could be a few months or longer depending, uh, and that’s going to have to move in and out of the garage. We use the garage for other stuff. I mean, it’s my garage. Sometimes, uh, we use it for family stuff, garage sales, that kind of stuff. So I may have to move vehicles in and out, and if they don’t have an engine mount under their own power, I got to have a way to do that. So that is what this is for.

And the cool thing about this setup is that I can actually take the shackle out of here and get a hitch mount tray for a 12-volt winch if I wanted to and mount the winch to the tray, slide it in, and now I’ve got a powered winch here instead of just a shackle. Now there’s an outlet right here behind my toolbox, and you got to get a 12-volt converter that was pretty hefty for a winch, but they make them. And so I could do that and, uh, get the winch in here, and now I can winch things into here. Um, and with the exact same setup, if I wanted to, I could get just another receiver like this and do the exact same thing to my driveway, uh, outside the garage, and that gives me a way to pull things back out if I wanted to make things a little bit easier. I just pop one out there too and do the exact same thing. Uh, you can use this pretty much anywhere, and once the, uh, the bolts are out, when I got the little, um, flush plug bolts in there, I mean, you don’t really even notice it from the other side of the garage. You can’t even see it.

So I’m pretty happy with it. Again, it was a simple, fairly cheap mod, uh, to do, and hopefully, hopefully it’s going to work. So as always, guys, uh, if you learned something, uh, if you found this interesting, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that. If you want to watch me, uh, use this system to pull the chassis into the garage, that’s coming up pretty quick, uh, so stay tuned for that. Uh, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. If you think that I am going to destroy my garage and yank this concrete right out of the ground when I’m pulling my chassis in here, drop me a comment and let me know. Uh, we’re going to see how this works. I’m pretty sure it’s going to be fine.

So fam, that’s where we’re at. All right, thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time. Take her away, getting shine at Bullnose. She’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We’ll see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We’ll see you next time.

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And let me ask you a question: what’s the ultimate transmission for your old Ford truck? Something that will handle heavy loads, eat up the miles on the highway, but still give you that solid manual shifting experience that lets you know you’re driving a truck. The ZF5 transmission might just be the answer. It’s the heavy-duty overdrive gearbox that gave Ford trucks new life, and today we’re going to crack open everything you need to know about it. From finding one for your build to understanding what makes it appealing for a swap, we’re going to see if the ZF5 really is all it’s cracked up to be and why it’s still one of the most sought-after upgrades out there. Stick with me because we’ll also get real about why you might want to pass on it for options like the Mazda M5OD, TMIC TKO, or even the MV4500 from the other guys. By the end of this video, you’ll know exactly what you’re getting into.

Hello! Manufactured by ZF Friedrichshafen AG, the ZF5 is a 5-speed manual workhorse made for Ford trucks from the late ’80s through the late ’90s. The S542 was designed to replace the older four-speed gearboxes, offering better fuel efficiency and improved highway driving with its fifth gear. In the mid-1990s, the S547 came as an upgrade, increasing torque capacity from 420 lb-ft to 470 lb-ft. The ZF5 was built for heavy-duty stuff like towing and off-roading while providing a balance between low-end torque and cruising. The later S547, with its stronger internals, was better suited for powerful engines such as the big blocks or diesels, but both models are considered pretty heavy-duty.

So now let’s look at some key specifications for both versions of the ZF5. They were both a 5-speed manual with overdrive. Both had all forward gears synchronized for smoother shifting. The gear ratios between both are the same: first is 5.72 to 1, second is 2.94 to 1, third is 1.61 to 1, fourth is 1:1 or direct drive, fifth, which is overdrive, is 0.76 to 1, and reverse is 5.24 to 1. The case material is aluminum for strength, weight savings, and heat dissipation. It weighs right around 135 lb without fluid and it measures 26 1/2 in long, 16 1/2 in wide, and 17 in high. This compact size allows it to fit various Ford models in both 4×2 and 4×4 configurations. The transmission holds approximately 5 quarts, though this may vary slightly depending on the specific vehicle setup. It’s recommended to change the transmission fluid at every 30,000 to 50,000 miles under normal driving conditions. For trucks used in heavy-duty applications such as towing or off-roading, more frequent changes at every 20,000 to 30,000 miles isn’t a bad idea.

Now let’s talk about how the ZF5 feels to drive. One thing that sets it apart is its mechanical shift feel. If you’re used to a lighter-duty transmission, the shifts are a bit notchy, meaning there’s a more deliberate solid engagement as you change gears. That’s not necessarily a downside; it gives you a strong sense of connection to the truck, which many enthusiasts love. It’s a transmission that feels tough, though it requires a bit more effort to shift than a TREMEC TKO or an M5OD. The ZF5 transmission, which includes the ZFS 542 and S547 variants, has a typical 5-speed manual shift pattern, and here’s how the pattern is laid out: first gear is top left, second gear is bottom left, third gear is top middle, fourth gear is bottom middle, fifth gear, the overdrive gear, is top right, and reverse is bottom right. To engage reverse, you typically need to move the shifter to the far right and then down. Some versions of the transmission may require you to push down on the shifter or pull up on a collar to engage reverse, depending on the vehicle and the specific shifter setup.

Ford paired the ZF5 with multiple different engines. You’ve got the Windsor, the 5.0 L and 5.8 L, and you’ve got the 4.9 L 396. The big block pattern matches larger engines like the 7.5 L, which is the 460, and the diesel pattern is designed for the 7.3 L IDI Diesel and the 7.3 L Power Stroke diesel. Now let’s quickly talk about something else that’s crucial when considering the ZF5 transmission: whether or not it’s a 4×4 or a 4×2 version. They are not interchangeable. The 4×4 versions are designed to bolt to a transfer case and have a shorter output shaft, while the 4×2 versions are for two-wheel drive trucks featuring a longer output shaft and a different tail housing. So if you’re planning a swap, make sure you’re matching the transmission type to your truck’s drivetrain.

Between the three different bell housing patterns and the two different drivetrain configurations, there are six possible installation setups for a ZF5 transmission, so ensure you choose the right one if you’re doing a swap or buying a rebuilt unit. To simplify which Ford models came equipped with the ZF5, let’s look at this chart. It provides a full breakdown of every truck and van with the ZF5, the years they were available, and the bell housing patterns they used. It’ll help you pinpoint what you need to look for when hunting for one of these transmissions at a junkyard or a pick-a-part. As you can see, the ZF5 found its way into quite a few Ford models. First off, you notice the F250 and F350 are some of the main players here. If you’ve got a gas engine, these trucks are running ZF5 from ’87 to ’97 for the 250 and up to ’98 for the 350. They had the small block pattern for the earlier S542 models and the big block pattern with the S547 once it was introduced. When you jump over to the diesel trucks, the ZF5 was right there from the start, available with the 7.3 L IDI Diesel and later the Power Stroke model. So whether you’re working with an F250, F350, or even a bigger F450, you’ve got a solid spread from ’87 to ’98 for a diesel ZF5. For diesels, ZF5 trucks have the unique diesel bell housing pattern. The F-150 also occasionally came with the ZF5, particularly in the 5.0 L and 5.8 L engines, though it’s a bit of a rarer find and mostly in fleet trucks. If you’re thinking about the Bronco, it also had the small block ZF5 option, making it a great fit if you’re building a Bronco and you want that five-speed. Lastly, we can’t forget the E-Series vans, those E250s and E350s, which could come with a ZF5. They’re less common, but they did use the small block or diesel patterns depending on the engine under the hood.

If you’re planning a 4×4 build, you want to make sure that you think about transfer case compatibility with your ZF5. The two most common options are the BorgWarner BW1356 and the New Process NP205. The 1356 is a good choice for off-roading and it’s known for being lightweight and durable. The NP205, on the other hand, is a cast iron unit and considered nearly bulletproof. Each of these transfer cases bolts up to the ZF5 without major modifications, so long as you have a 4×4 compatible transmission. So it really comes down to the needs of your build and how you plan to use your truck.

Now let’s say you’re searching for a ZF5 in a salvage yard, swap meet, or online listing. How do you know you’re looking at? First, you look for the ZF logo cast on the side of the case; dead giveaway. Specific cast numbers can also confirm whether you’re looking at an S542 or an S547. Finally, and probably the easiest to see at a glance, check the case. It has a distinct crisscross rib design that makes it stand out from other transmissions.

So how much will a ZF5 cost you if you’re looking for one? As always, prices vary based on condition and location, but here’s a general idea: a used ZF5 transmission can run anywhere from $400 to $1,200 and sometimes higher depending on factors like mileage, configuration, and the variant you’re looking for. If you find one that’s been rebuilt or is in like-new condition, expect to pay more, anywhere from $1,200 on the low end to $2,500 on the higher end. If you’re looking to buy a rebuilt ZF5 from a reputable rebuilder, expect to pay between $1,500 and $3,000 depending on the level of work done, the rebuilder’s reputation, and whether they have done any performance upgrades that are included in the build. The bell housing pattern can also influence the price, and some are in high demand or can be harder to find.

But let’s say you find a deal on a ZF5 that needs a little bit of TLC. How much would it cost to rebuild it yourself? Well, rebuilding any transmission can be a big job, but if you’re hands-on and you’ve done some transmission rebuilds before, it’s possible with a DIY project. Parts and rebuild kits typically range from $400 to $600, with some kits including all the bearings, synchros, and seals. If your transmission requires more extensive work, like replacing damaged gears or shafts, costs can increase, potentially adding a few hundred in parts. Circling back around to the difficulty, if you’ve rebuilt manual transmissions before, the ZF5 isn’t too complex, but it does require precision and the right tools. A good shop press, snap ring pliers, and a bearing puller are all added to the app. For someone with solid mechanical skills, it’s a doable weekend project. However, if you’re newer to transmission work, you may want to consider having a professional handle it or guide you to the more intricate parts.

I would have somebody build it. As I’ve said before, the ZF5 is known for its durability, but like any mechanical thing, certainly transmissions, it has a few issues. Over time, you might experience shift fork wear, which when the forks guiding the gears wear down, causing poor shift quality. If it’s harder to shift into gear or you notice some sloppiness, worn shift forks are usually the culprit. Synchro wear is another issue, especially on second and third gears. Regular fluid changes can help extend the life of your ZF5, but if trouble arises, it might be time for a rebuild. And finally, listen for input shaft bearing noise. A whining or grinding sound under load could indicate a worn input shaft. Replacing it during a rebuild is a good idea to keep your ZF5 running smoothly and quietly. I mean, you know, unless you want to have a manual transmission.

Both the ZFS542 and S547 are pretty good right out of the gate as far as upgrades, but several aftermarket options are available to make it even better. For instance, upgrading to a heavy-duty clutch can improve the transmission’s ability to handle higher torque levels, particularly in the S547, which may be used in truly tough situations. You can also install a short throw shifter; this can reduce shift time and effort, making the transmission more responsive and enjoyable to drive. It takes away some of that truck feel but makes it a little bit more sporty, although it’s never going to be sporty. Finally, adding an external transmission cooler can manage heat in demanding situations and extend the life of your ZF5.

Okay, now for some comparisons. If you’re considering a ZF5 for a swap, don’t miss this. I’m going to quickly compare how the ZF5 stacks up against a few other options and see why you might choose one over the other. So I’m going to start with my situation; that’s the NP435. That’s what I have in mind. I’m thinking about going to a ZF5. It’s a four-speed manual with a low first granny gear; it’s around 6.68 to 1, makes it great for heavy-duty stuff like towing or off-roading. But without overdrive, it’s not ideal for highway driving or even going around town, and that’s where the ZF5’s fifth gear shines. Shift points on the ZF5 are also better space for overall drivability. That said, the NP435 is way less expensive than the ZF5, both as a used or rebuilt option, and its durability is legendary.

Now the T18 and T19 from BorgWarner are similar to the NP435. They’re both four speeds and they’re rugged and great for low-end work. The T18 has a granny low first gear around 6.32 to 1, but like the NP435, they lack an overdrive, so they fall short on fuel efficiency and drivability compared to the ZF5. Maybe the closest comparison is the M5OD. It’s a lighter-duty 5-speed used in Ford trucks from the late ’80s to the early 2000s. While it’s compact and great for light-duty applications, it doesn’t really handle high torque like the ZF5 does. That makes it less suitable for heavy hauling and off-roading or performance. It’s easier to find and less expensive, though, so if you don’t need the high torque capability of the ZF5, it’s probably a good option.

Now let’s touch on the NV4500. That’s the New Venture Gear. It’s a strong competitor with a low first gear and fifth gear overdrive, but it’s often seen in GM and Dodge trucks. It’s comparable to the ZF5 in durability and versatility, but it requires a custom adapter to fit a Ford engine, which increases cost and complexity, and it’s also not a Ford option. So if that’s important to you, an NV4500 might not be the best choice.

So the TREMEC TKO 600, it’s a performance-oriented 5-speed. It’s ideal for muscle truck builds where street feel and smooth shifting matter the most. However, it’s often more expensive by a fair bit than the ZF5, and its gear ratios are geared more toward performance driving than towing or off-roading. But if you’re looking for the meanest street/strip transmission and cost isn’t a concern, this is probably your go-to. If, however, you want your truck to feel like a truck, then you should stick with the ZF5.

And finally, we’ve got the TREMEC TR4050. It’s a modern option. The TR4050 offers a synchronized reverse and newer tech, but at $4,000 to $5,000, it’s a big investment. If you want a modern transmission with heavy-duty capabilities and you have the budget, it’s a strong choice. But the ZF5 is way more cost-effective and it’s way easier to find.

Okay, so let’s bring it all together and wrap it up. When it comes to finding the right transmission for your truck, the ZF5 has a lot going for it. It balances durability, versatility, and affordability for the most part, making it a top choice for Ford truck swaps. With five speeds, including that crucial overdrive gear, the ZF5 is an ideal transmission for those needing both low-end workhorse torque and want to cruise smoothly on the highway. One of the ZF5’s major advantages is its flexibility in configuration. There are six different mounting options when considering the three bell housing patterns: small block, big block, and diesel, and the two drivetrain configurations: 4×2 and 4×4. This makes the ZF5 a versatile choice for a range of builds, and it fits all those engines like the Windsor, the big blocks, and the IDI diesel. If you’re building a truck and need a tough, reliable manual transmission, odds are there’s a ZF5 that’ll bolt right up if it’s a Ford truck and as long as you can find it.

As I said before, for my own project, I’m strongly considering a ZF5 because it can handle the torque of a four-way stroker while not bringing an RPM that isn’t screaming on the highway. That said, the TKO600 has been on my radar too, whispering in my ear, mostly because of the street feel and the reputation it has for smoother shifts. It’s a choice that comes down to price and what kind of driving experience you want. The ZF5 will give you the toughness and reliability I’m looking for, and it’s generally easier to find and cheaper to rebuild. But if performance and that crisp street feel are top priorities, the TKO600 is a strong contender, even if it does cost a bit more. I’m still undecided, to be honest. You know, I like the idea of the nice, you know, that a truck is a truck and should shift like a truck, but man, that street/strip Windsor engine is kind of calling my name. Let me know in the comments what you think.

So that’s it, guys. Everything that I know or pretend to know about the ZF Friedrichshafen. But I like ZF. And that’s it, guys. That’s everything that I know or pretend to know about the Friedrichshafen ZF5, S542, and S547 5-speed manual transmissions with overdrive. Guys, as I always ask, if you learned something today, you found the content interesting, give me a like, give me a subscribe, go grab a cool hat, help me out. I really appreciate it. As always, thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time. Take her away, getting things to shine that she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We’ll see you next time.

hi folks Ed here welcome back to Bullnose Garage and today I have a question for you what do this wiper motor this washer pump and this wiper washer switch all have in common they’re garbage and it runs for just a second and it turns off and it’s really inconsistent making those clicking noises that’s actually a way for you to know that there’s something going on with your motor if that module clicks like that all right so clearly that stuff is garbage today I’m going to replace all three of those things on my bullnose truck right here and I’m going to show you how to do it on yours the easiest is probably the washer fluid pump which is just a basically you pull out the old one and pop in the new one then we’ve got the wiper motor and that wiper motor is a little bit tricky cuz if you buy one from Amazon it uh seems like a direct replacement but it’s not quite you got to do some modification to it to make work and I’ll show you exactly how I did that to mine so you can do it to yours and finally a great upgrade is one that I did on the interior for the uh wiper and washer switch and I changed it from the old high low style to an intermittent style which is a really great modern upgrade for these old trucks so stick around and I’ll show you how to do all of that today hello let’s take a look and see all the bits and pieces that make this system work so first of all we’ve got your uh wiper motor right there that uh links to the wiper arms there and there and there’s only one motor for both uh there’s a linkage back there that controls them uh there we’ve got our sprayer nozzle on the 85 F150 there’s only one and then the line obviously comes down and goes to the reservoir which I’ve already got emptied you can see here down there that is the uh fluid pump and it just uh hooks up right there and pretty easy to replace so what I’m going to do is I’m actually going to take the entire Reservoir out get it good and clean uh it’s pretty gross in there and then uh go through and start doing the replacement I think the hardest part of this is going to be hooking up the motor and uh getting the cowl off so there’s several Phillips screws that you can see there that you got to take off to get this cowl off so first things first we got to get this cowl off and it’s not too difficult but there are a few steps you’ve got to know uh before you can just go ahead and pop it off of here so the first one I’m going to do is take off these wiper arms to do that get a screwdriver underneath this little bit there pull that up pop that out set that back down like that and now you can just wiggle it off of here get my screwdriver out of my hand so I can use both hands here there we go and this side will obviously be a little bit more difficult just cuz it’s uh you got to reach further but it’s the same idea pop that out set that down wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle oh it’s so hot wiggle something loose that ain’t been wiggle loose in 20 years wiggle wiggle wiggle there it goes almost took you guys out okay now we’ve also got these screws here to remove and we have to take off the anten mount anten mount’s pretty simple try to get under here and pop it off you can see this is already a little bit loose I’ve already taken the screws loose from underneath there we go oh that puppy’s already loose and then you just uh unplug it me let loose here there he goes there are several Phillips screws under here for the cowl and you just have to kind of go and take them out some somebody put a different screw in that one got a little following behind somebody else’s work all right here we go handy dandy correct tool for the job there’s some damage going on there so I’ll to be honest here and say I don’t know how this came from the factory but this truck is been around the block a few times so whoever had it before me has done some stuff to it and there’s some zip ties and some other stuff in here so I’m going to have to cut that off so that I can start working on uh getting the cowl off and uh replacing these lines take care of your truck you have to pull it from underneath the uh the trim here I’m a onean show so I got to do it myself I said this before guys I will say it again I am playing the learn as we go game I have watched videos on this and done a lot of research but I’ve never actually taken the cow off myself it takes some real wiggling and if you don’t want to scratch the paint on your cowl guys you have to be more careful than me I don’t know that I care that much about my paint cuz I’m going to repaint all this anyway but that’s going to be a real pain to get back on there without scratching the paint when I do it later you may take your hood off if you want to do it without scratching the paint for sure okay guys this is the ever popular 10 mm and this should be the only thing holding this Reservoir on and there we go we want to take this locking ring out and then just pulls right out of there okay guys so when I pulled mine out of here the uh the pump came out but the impeller and Gasket is still stuck in there so I got to figure out how to get that out of there uh but you know I got a pick set that I think I can get in there and uh yoink that out with all right guys here we are like a one week later I think I discovered that my wiper switch uh right there is actually faulty I think that’s what’s causing both the wiper motor and the uh the washer uh pump to not work correctly so I went out and got a replacement actually I got an upgrade so this is an intermittent wiper module uh my truck doesn’t have one from the factory so I’m going to go ahead and uh while I’m doing this add intermittent wipers so uh this whole setup is about 80 bucks from eBay uh that’s about the only place you can find them they got to pull them from another truck somewhere so uh but this one looks like it’s in pretty good shape and uh yeah let’s see how it works so to get to uh where this switch is so I can replace it you got to take both of these knobs off off uh my wiper switch knob has been broken for a long time so it just pops right off uh my light headlight switch though is actually still uh got good retention here so you have to find this little Notch uh that’s right there slide a tool back in there behind there like a hook and compress a ring back in here that’ll pop this off once those are off uh then you can come underneath here and I’m not sure if you can see or not there are uh a few Phillips head screwdriver or screws screwdriver a few Phillips head screws right there uh that’ll help you get this Dash panel off um and in my case I’ll probably have to move my tack cuz it’s after market uh sometimes you’ve got to remove this uh steering wheel uh shaft shroud right here but we’re going to see if we can do it without without that mine’s a little bit more complicated cuz I got some extra stuff there we go or to really get it out of the way in a future episode I will be doing this here part again because I have a new um gauge cluster that came out of a different truck and it’s got a tack built in and I really really want the factory tack so that’s why I grabbed that I’ve had it for a couple of years and haven’t put it in yet that’s the story of my life all right and now you just kind of rotate that out of the way all you got to do is get to this all right guys now I’m not sure how well you can see what I’m doing here but I’ve got a bunch of aftermarket goop and stuff up under here that has been added by somebody else so it’s probably going to be a little bit harder for me to get to this and do this than it would be for you guys but here is the old switch it’s just got a plug here so we take that plug out and we get our new one now the new one obviously has a lot more stuff and there’s some considerations you got to have here now the new one should just plug right into the same socket as the old one should it’s pretty rough but they are I mean they are going in there there’s no doubt they’re going in it may just be oh yeah that’s what it is I don’t know if you guys can see that or not but the the uh length isn’t the same on the housing so it’s not going to go in all the way that right there is as far as it’ll go so there we go all right I’ve also got to find a place to stick this ground so there should be plenty of places under here uh I just got to find a good one oh man my hood releas is bust maybe I should fix that while I’m down here it’s always something yeah that’s going to work this guys this is why you never throw any screws or nuts away and if you happen to go to a garage stale or an estate stale where they got buckets of this stuff you may want to pick it up all right now that solves two birds two birds that solves two problems now I got to find a place to tuck this thing yeah all right guys um so I I’m continuing to troubleshoot this um let me turn it on for you okay now if I touch this I’m not sure you can hear it but that works but now you hear that noise let going from this box so either I got a bad box from eBay or what I think is more likely is that my wiper motor is actually not not working correctly um so I I bought a new motor and anticipation of this I thought it was a motor originally so now my line of thinking is probably that the motor is actually what caused my original switch to to go out so uh I’m going to replace the motor and we’re going to try again so before I go through all the work of replacing the motor and going through all the linkages and everything I’m going to test the new one uh plugged into the truck so hopefully this solves the problem because if it doesn’t uh then I don’t know what it would be other than this box being bad so here’s the pump working try that what am I missing here all right guys here we are a couple of weeks later I’m sorry about that family obligations and such uh but I’ve got another day to work on the truck today and uh did some research while I was out and uh I think I got my my problem figured out I think I didn’t have a good ground I think is what’s going on you have to make sure you have good grounds when you’re doing this stuff um or else you can cause all kinds of issues and uh right now as you can see I’ve got a good ground I know for sure that this right here is a good ground I got a couple alligator clips here going to the ground stud on this old motor which is plugged in and if I try to turn it nothing happens and as a matter of fact the little module under here I don’t know if you can hear it or not making those clicking noises that’s actually a way for you to know that there’s something going on with your motor if that module clicks like that so if I get in here and remove this plug and come down here to my new motor plug it in get the ground strap hooked up correctly and now there we go slow fast and intermittent one thing that I didn’t know because I’ never had intermittent on this truck before uh right here is actually in the middle of the uh uh the movement of this if I turn it to the left this rotation here is what causes the intermittent to happen and the further you rotate it right is uh how it goes faster and then right here this next click that’s off and the next click to the right is slow and the next click to the right is fast and I didn’t know that’s how that works so last time I was a little bit confused as to why you know I didn’t know how it turned on how it turned off I was having it turned all the way to the left thinking maybe if I had it turned all the way to the left that it wouldn’t go at all but all this is is the slowest intermittent setting when it’s all the way to the left like that so yep and that was explaining why this box down here was making all kinds of weird clicking noises and stuff um if the motor doesn’t run correctly this box will do all kinds of weird clicking and everything uh but it’s actually a great indicator of uh of an issue so what that means is that now both my wiper motor and my uh wiper fluid pump are good to go so there’s also this little CI kind of thing here and mine’s in pretty rough shape so I’m going to take it off here and give it a quick once over and evaluate it and see what I want to do with it now let’s see if that comes off looks like there’s also some sealant stuff under here so yeah all right there we go yeah you can see how rough that piece is under there I may want to paint that clean it up paint it before I put it back on all right now there’s a linkage back there that connects the motor to the uh the arms underneath here where the wiper goes there you go that’s it yeah so I got to figure out how to disconnect all that all right guys I’m not sure how well you can see this clip right here that’s what’s holding everything on and so I think what I’ve got to do is get a screwdriver in this little part right here pop this part open this way then move the whole thing off passenger side goes in front driver side goes in the back and there is the clip so let’s take a look at these and see if they are indeed different okay so here’s the old one and here is the new one and take a look yeah yeah they are different yeah the old one’s got a much longer pin so I’m not sure if I’m guessing I’m going to take that whole entire arm off cuz those arms look like they’re they’re about the same uh in terms of length and uh jog right there so I think I just take this there’s a there’s a a bolt there a bolt here I’ll take those arms off and swap them and that should hopefully should take care of it okay quick update for you guys uh I got them both off they are index the same um so if you look they have the same kind of uh holes although they aren’t they don’t have the same Return To Zero location and they are actually a little bit longer but I think oh you know what what I’m doing I got them back to back that’s the that’s why they oh yeah but they’re still they’re backwards right right hm not sure how that’s going to work have to put it in and try it um the other thing that I noticed also is that uh the hole on this one is a little bit smaller than the hole on this one so I may have to file out the inside of this just a little bit to get it to fit on the on the uh Mount pin over there all right well it took some filing and I had to use some torque to get it on there but the old arm is and pin are now on the new motor so let’s get this in the truck and zeroed I’m going to plug it back in I cuz I when I was trying to get this on here um it moved the motor a little bit so I want to get this back in hooked up real quick set it back to zero and then uh I can get it mounted back up so another thing I want to try to do is reuse this ground strap right here it’s uh got this fitting here that goes in that should give me a good solid ground to the body of the truck um and it’s nice and short doesn’t get in the way so hopefully we can reuse it I’m not going to tighten this until I’ve got the mounting done in the back so I can see what this it look like all right that actually looks right all right all right guys I apologize if you missed a little bit uh my phone died on me while it was uh in the middle of putting my wipers on I think it got too hot for the phone out here even in September it’s like 93° outside in New Mexico anyway future editor Ed note here don’t make the same mistake I made and put your wipers on before you put your cowl back on because I had to take those wipers back off again to put the cowl on yeah that was a pain clip uh that Clips down and holds them in place you just have to make sure that uh you get them in the right spot when you put them back on so that they they wipe correctly uh but the the motor goes back to zero automatically and so you just wait for it to go back to zero and then you put the wipers where they belong all right guys so here’s the deal this right here is the old uh sprayer and it’s a dual head so well it’s a single head but it’s dual uh dual sprays okay that’s what came with the truck the kit that I got from Amazon are two single sprays and so if I wanted to use these I could either uh just do a single spray point it toward the driver’s side keep it in the same location and go from there or I could actually drill holes in the cowl on either side and then pop these into the new holes and then run the lines and have a dual spray set up if I wanted to um but I’m going to be honest with you guys and and I think I blew some air through this uh it’s fine and I will tell you this old hose is way better than this new uh hose I got from Amazon I mean it’s just way thicker and it’s still uh in pretty good shape it’s it’s Supple for being uh from 85 if it’s original it may not be I don’t know but uh yeah it’s still in really great shape so I’m just going to keep the old hose and I’m actually going to keep the old sprayer nozzle too because I think uh it’s going to be just fine I think it was just the pump that was the problem uh then I’ll keep this for a spare if I need to but I’ll tell you that the quality of this is nowhere near as good as the quality of what came on the truck and I’ve been learning as I’ve been doing this that that happens quite a lot uh the new stuff that you can buy from Amazon just isn’t as good a quality you know for a long time I was thinking that uh you know if you’re going to replace systems in an old vehicle like this that you probably ought to go through and just replace the entire system with new stuff uh cuz it’ll be better brand new but but the longer I do this the more I go through it the less I think that’s true I think you may be better off keeping some of the old stuff on there because I think it’s just better quality especially the older stuff from like the you know uh prior to the the ’90s and the 2000s uh when a lot of this manufacturing started getting moved over to China now no dig against China well maybe a little dig against chn but generally the newer stuff is not as high quality so there you go take that for what’s worth the the amount for the nozzle is actually on the cowl I can’t Mount that nozzle until I get the cowl back on the truck but I do want to paint this piece first it’s pretty uh pretty rough and uh it doesn’t look nice so while I’ve got it off and I’ve got the opportunity I’m just going to go ahead and clean it up and hit it with uh some bed liner actually some sprayon Rustoleum bed liner that I’ve got um I don’t actually use that for bed lining cuz I don’t think it’s tough enough for that but it is tougher than regular spray paint so uh I’ll hit this with that and that way it’ll be nice and clean and look nice and I’ll put that back on there but before I go through all that I’m actually going to test the nozzle real quick for you guys and go hey look at that beautiful all right here we are the next day and here’s the piece all painted up just uh cleaned it up hit it with a primer hit it with uh uh the rustolium bed liner and then a real quick top clear coat satin finish and uh it should last a long time the cow is tricky especially for just one person and I’m fortunate in that my paint’s not in great shape anyway so if I scratch something up or or uh ruin quote unquote ruin the paint it’s not as big of a deal if I had just got done painting this thing I’d be much much more careful obv obviously why would that not work what’s going on there is there a kink somewhere okay so even though I tested it before with the with it out of the truck and it worked fine now when I’ve got it back in the truck only one side’s working and it’s not working great so hooking That Thing Up and unhook it it’s a real pain in the ass because uh you have to get underneath the cowl and uh try to hook that that hose up to uh the the spray head so what I’ve done is I’ve uh made this little extend and that way when I plug this in it should hang below the cowl and I can actually plug and unplug it down there what have to reach up into the cow to get that done let’s see if uh that works out for me okay well this hose is not the same size I don’t know if I can get that on here or not let’s see almost come on need to go down there good and tight almost there hey look at that all right yeah that’s not going anywhere good oh that side’s blocked so something got in there either got in a hose or when I was uh working on the uh pump there something piece of debris or something got in there and now it’s jammed up inside here okay nope still nothing there there we go all right we got air coming from both holes now good good oh now let’s see if this fitting is going to be big enough for this hose it may not be oh no oh you know what though I think I can make it work maybe we’re going to find out and then when I’m driving down the road later and it all goes to hell I know who to blame just myself as always where’ my hose go there it is that feels like success to me and now if I ever have to mess with that thing there my connection is beneath the cowl inside the hood of the inside the uh the engine bay so as long as it doesn’t come unconnected get up there toward the top where I can’t get to it yeah you know even if it does that new hose is thin enough it’ll actually go through the hole in the cowl which is the problem with the hose that came with the truck it’s too thick to go through uh that ho that hole in the cowl so yeah yeah I’m happy with that I’m going to go inside and button up the inside of the truck I’m not going to bore you guys with that uh it’s pretty simple just putting things back together in there so I think I think we’re done hopefully you learned something today um I know when I went out to look in how to do this there were some videos but nothing quite this in depth so I’m hoping that uh that uh you know you learned something and that maybe this can help you do your own thing especially when it comes to swapping out that motor um and changing the arm around uh I read on Amazon where I bought this thing I’ll put the link in the description for it where um you had to do some modifications but the the the descriptions weren’t real specific as to what modifications you had to do it was most just folks complaining about the fact you had to do a modification so at least now you guys know exactly what sorts of modifications you you got to do you swap that uh the arm around on the back of the motor there you have to I had to file the motor itself uh the mount point on the motor I decided to file the mount point of the motor rather than the arm because that arm uh is original to the truck and I have no idea how I would get a replacement for that um whereas that motor was fairly cheap on Amazon so if I screw it up well okay I use another motor so uh yeah I filed the the mount point on the motor and then got it down to where it was it was almost there and then I used the uh uh the bolt on the back to sort of torque that down and and seat everything real good and it seemed to work just fine got the clip and everything on there uh it went back to zero in the right spot just get your wipers back on and uh good to go there as far as replacing the the water pump or not the water pump I’m sorry the uh the washer pump Ah that’s that’s pretty simple uh there’s not a whole lot to that so uh yeah you just pull the old one out put the new one in and if that’s your only problem that’s like a 5 minute fix there’s nothing to that so yeah again guys hope you learned something if you did please give me a like And subscribe I really appreciate that help out uh helps me out a lot I i’ think I’ll get a hat but I’m not wearing mine today cuz I don’t want to get it messed up uh this is my working on the truck hat so uh anyway thanks again so much for watching guys we will see you next time fine take a r away getting things to shine she’s considered Divine thanks again for watching we will see you next time thanks again for watching we’ll see you next time

I have the power. Hello, all right folks, enough of that cheesy nonsense. Ed here, welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today we’re talking alternators, specifically swapping out the stock 1G alternator for a 3G. As a bonus, I pulled a 3G alternator from my 351 Windsor donor vehicle, and I’ll be using that as a visual aid today.

If you’ve had your truck for a while, especially if you’ve added accessories like lights, new headlights, a better stereo, or maybe an electric fan, you’ve probably noticed that the 1G can struggle to keep up. This is where the 3G comes in. It’s got more power, better reliability, and fewer headaches. So let’s dive into why you’d want to make the switch and how to get it done.

So why do we want to ditch the 1G? Well, the stock 1G alternators from these 1980 to ’86 trucks were fine for their time, but they’ve got a bit of a reputation for being underpowered. They typically put out around 65 amps. It’s okay for a truck back in the ’80s mostly, but once you start adding aftermarket accessories like extra lighting or modern electronics, the 1G just can’t keep up. And then there’s the wiring. The 1G alternators have external regulators and use fusible links, which aren’t the most robust system. The connectors can overheat and melt, and nobody wants that under the hood. It’s like running a garden hose when you really need a fire hose.

Enter the 3G alternator. This upgrade for the mid-’90s is substantial. The 3G alternator is internally regulated, so it ditches that problematic external regulator and fusible link setup. The big deal though is the output. It’s much higher, anywhere from 90 to 130 amps depending on the model. That’s a big leap over the 1G’s 65 amps. What’s great about the 3G is it’s not just more power; it’s more stable power. You’ll get better voltage regulation, which means your truck’s electrical system is happier, especially at idle. With the 1G, your lights might dim or your stereo might cut out when you’re idling at a stoplight. The 3G helps prevent that. And if you’re running a winch or big off-road lights, it’s pretty much a must-have upgrade.

So right here I’ve got the 3G alternator that I pulled for my 351 Windsor donor vehicle. Let’s take a closer look. One thing you notice right away is this connector here. This is the voltage regulator. Unlike the 1G, which had an external regulator mounted on the fender, the 3G has it built right in. Another thing to note is the size. This one here is a 90 AMP version, which is just slightly larger than the 1G but should still fit in the same bracket with no major modifications. If the mounting points are correct, however, this one won’t work directly for a bullnose swap because the mounting ears aren’t correct. This one has three mounting points. What you need is a version with two mounting ears directly offset at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. This is a side mount alternator, and you’re looking for a pivot mount alternator.

So how do I know this one’s 90 amps? Well, the 90 AMP models like the one I’m holding here have four vent holes in the rib sections on the front. If you’re looking for the higher output 130 amp version, those typically have two vent holes and are physically larger. That means the mounting holes in the 130 amp model are spaced further apart. So depending on your bracket setup, you may need to make adjustments for a proper fit. Also, keep in mind if you’re running a single V belt system, the 130 amp version might not work out. A single V belt can only handle about 100 amps before it starts to slip. So if you want to run the 130 amp alternator, you’ll need to upgrade to either a serpentine belt setup or a dual V belt system to handle that extra resistance.

Speaking of that, if your bullnose is running a V-belt setup like mine, you’ll also need to swap the pulley from the 1G onto the 3G. If the 3G has a serpentine pulley like this one, it’s pretty straightforward. Just remove the nut that holds the pulley onto the 1G, slide the V-belt pulley off, and do the same on the 3G to remove it. If it has a serpentine pulley, you’ll probably need a shim to move the pulley out just a bit so the belt doesn’t rub on the case, but those are pretty inexpensive. You can then pop the V-belt pulley onto the 3G alternator and tighten it down. That way everything stays compatible with your existing belt system.

And lastly, the output terminals. This heavy-duty charge stud here is where your main power connects. If you’re upgrading to a 3G, you want to run a heavier gauge wire from here to your battery or solenoid to handle the higher output. Now the good news is that even with all that that I just said, the swap isn’t too complicated. But like any job, you want to have the right parts and prep work done first. You’ll need the alternator itself, like the one I just showed you, but with the right mounting setup. The 3G alternators we’re looking for came off a bunch of Ford vehicles from the mid-’90s. To help you out, I put together a list of vehicles you can source a 3G alternator from, which I’ll throw up on the screen right now. Take a look at these vehicles. You’re looking at anything from the 1994 to ’95 Mustang, which had a 130 amp alternator, to vehicles like the Ford Taurus, Thunderbird, and even E-Series Vans. Other options include the Lincoln Continental and Mercury Cougar. You can pick these up at junkyards, and they’ll bolt right up to your bullnose with a little bit of wiring work.

Now, like I mentioned before, if you’re running a V-belt in your truck, you’ll also need to make sure you swap the pulleys. Get that done before you start the actual swap. You don’t want to find out that you forgot when you’re trying to wrap a V-belt around a serpentine pulley. That’s no fun. Now, if you’re not interested in sourcing a 3G alternator from a junkyard, there are plenty of aftermarket options available. Companies like PA Performance and Tough Stuff offer brand new 3G alternators that are designed specifically for older Ford trucks, including bullnoses. These aftermarket models often come with higher output ratings too, sometimes over 200 amps, and they’re built to handle modern accessories. And what’s great about going aftermarket is that many of these kits include the upgraded wiring, a pretty install V-belt pulley if you need it, and even instructions on how to make the swap as easy as possible. Now, they do cost a bit more than a junkyard pull, but it’s a solid option if you want peace of mind with new parts and you don’t want the hassle of digging through salvage.

All right, so you’ve got your parts. Time to get the old 1G out of there. First, disconnect the battery. That’s always the first step when you’re working on anything electrical. Then remove the old alternator. There’s usually a couple of bolts holding it to the bracket, and you’ll need to disconnect the wiring harness. Now, I’m not going to get into how to physically remove the alternator in this video. It’s fairly simple, just a couple of bolts, and there are several videos out there that will show you exactly how. It can be a bit of a pain to get down there with a socket, but just keep at it, and you’ll get there eventually.

Once the old alternator is out, bolt the 3G into place. It should fit right into the existing bracket with minimal fuss so long as you have the right model. If it’s a little tight, some folks have had to grind or modify the bracket slightly, but usually it’s nothing major. Now for the wiring, like I mentioned, the 3G has built-in regulation, so you won’t need the external voltage regulator anymore. Ditch that thing. The external regulator is typically mounted on the passenger side fender inside the engine bay. It’s a small rectangular box with a wiring harness plugged into it. You’ll wire up the new alternator using the 3G harness, so make sure you grab that from your donor if you go that route. If you’re making your own harness, the main thing to get is the power wire from the alternator to the battery or starter solenoid and the smaller wires for the ignition and dash warning light. This is also where you upgrade the charging wire. Go ahead and run that new 4 gauge wire from the alternator to your solenoid or battery, depending on your setup. Put a mega fuse in line to keep everything safe in case of a short.

Once it’s all wired up, double-check your connections. Make sure everything’s tight and secure. Then reconnect your battery, fire up the truck, and check the voltage at the battery with a multimeter. You should see somewhere around 14 volts, give or take. If it’s good, you’re in business. Take a spin around the block, turn on your headlights, crank up the stereo, maybe even turn on any accessories you got, and you’ll notice everything runs smoother, especially when you’re idling. And just like that, you’ve upgraded your charging system to handle pretty much anything you can throw at it. That is until you run your huge set of off-road KC lights while you’re cranking ACDC at your 2500 watt stereo.

So there you have it, the 3G alternator swap. It’s one of those upgrades that makes a world of difference in how your truck runs, especially if you’ve got a lot of electrical demands. More power, better reliability, and less chance of ending up on the side of the road with a melted connector. If you’re thinking about tackling this job, go for it. It’s a solid weekend project that’ll pay off every time you turn the key. Guys, if you learned something today, if you enjoy the content, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that. I’m not trying to beg, but it really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. It’s the day I’ve been waiting for since I bought this thing almost 5 years ago. Today, I’m starting to tear down this 351 Windsor engine, so buckle up, come along, and you’ll see what surprises I discover, both good and bad, from some shocking discoveries, oh, cut all these, to truly painful lessons, and even how much profit, yeah, profit, I’m making off this B. Boy, you don’t want to miss it. Let’s dig in.

Hello. So before we start, I’m going to put up what I paid for this ’95 F-150 chassis with the 351 Windsor and an E4OD transmission. I basically stole it from the guy for 500 bucks, so let’s put that on the screen and we’ll tally the score as we go. What you see is what I got, plus ECM and wiring harness, the steering column, steering wheel, and the gauge cluster. Now, I’ve already sold the gas tanks, the gauge cluster, and the steering wheel with column, so I’m well on my way to at least breaking even and getting the block for free, if nothing else. But I think I’ll do a lot better than that. Let’s see. By the way, I’m future commentary Ed, and I’ll be with you the rest of the way. Double dose.

The first thing I pulled off was the cruise control module, followed by the throttle cable. Both were connected to the throttle body linkage and right on top, so they’re easy to get to. And just like that, a quick $25. Cru. Oh yeah, I remember this part, so does my thumb. That’s going to hurt for a while. Try to take off one of those stubborn rain clamps with pliers. It wasn’t pretty, and there’s the pain I promised you. The brake fluid reservoir pretty much rotted away completely, so there was no way to drain it without getting brake fluid everywhere. I only got some, got more in my shoes. That’s what being out in the southwestern sun every day for 5 years will do to plastic.

So back when I got this donor chassis from a guy in Facebook Marketplace, he was planning on a build but decided to go another way. I suspect it might be because the frame is bent. He didn’t tell me that, but it doesn’t really matter since I’m not using the frame. He even trailered it over from the next town for free. It’s like an hour away, so nice guy. But you know, when you inherit someone else’s project, cleaning things up, there can be surprises. You’ll see what I mean later. I am so adept at everything, so amazingly amazing. Wait a minute, that, oh man, yeah, the bolts for the brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder were practically welded together with rust, so I ended up taking the whole assembly off. And guess what? It wasn’t worth anything. Straight to the trash it goes.

All right, what’s next? I’m not sure if they drained this fluid or not. Oh, it feels pretty empty. Day one may not seem like much progress, but hey, I’m a noob. Newbies got to learn somehow. At least I managed to make a quick $75 and get a bunch of hoses and bits off to start cleaning things up. What about that solenoid? The EGR vacuum regulator solenoid can be a bit more valuable, especially good work. Oh, and by the way, I use AI a lot. You might have already noticed from the images on some of my videos. It’s a huge help. It’s like having a mechanic but in my pocket. I can ask questions on the fly and get instant answers for part numbers or how to remove something. I know there are mixed opinions about AI, but I’m not going to apologize or make excuses for using it. It saves me a ton of time and energy. If you’re not at least checking it out for yourself, you’re kind of missing the boat. If you’re interested in how I’m using AI to help with this tear down and with my channel, let me know. I might just make a video about how I use it.

Finally getting the radiator off here. It’s hung off the front of this thing for 5 years. Do yourself a favor and always be sure to drain the radiator and cooling system before pulling one off. Foreshadowing. I’m planning on keeping it to use in my engine run stand later, so I won’t be selling it. But if I did, that’d be a quick 80 bucks. Little bit. By the way, I’m sorry you’re spending so much time watching my back in this video. I was more focused on working my way around the engine than keeping an eye on the camera. But don’t worry, I mean, that’s why future commentary Ed is here today, keeping you company. Ant hoses, not worth jack in this condition. Like I’m saying, those aren’t worth anything. As I go, I’m snapping pictures to check part numbers, find values, and decide what might be useful for my new build. Spoiler alert, there’s not much I want to use, so most of it’s either going in the trash or up for grabs on Marketplace.

This part is a DPF sensor, and I know that thanks to my AI friend. I also know it’s not worth much. Here I am taking off the alternator, a 3G. By the way, this one won’t fit my Bullnose since it’s side mount, not pivot mount, so up for sale it goes. That’s 40 bucks in my pocket. And hey, if you’ve got an older truck and haven’t done the 3G swap yet, what are you waiting for? I’ve got a great video on just how to do it. Trust me, it’s an easy mod that makes a huge difference. You should go check it out. Amazing, you have part number, but you probably don’t, Mr. Unidentified Bracket. Unidentified throttle body bracket thing. Sh, no part number. I’m guessing, I’m guessing the gasket is not worth jack. You’re right, past Ed, the gasket isn’t worth jack. Most of them aren’t. Oh, that’s dirty. Some, and off comes the throttle body. But even dirty as it is, cleaned up, it’ll probably net me around 65 bucks. So that’s day two in the can and another $85 in my pocket. If you’re keeping score, you notice I’m almost breaking even and I haven’t even talked about the transmission, which will be in the next video. Differential or wheels? Yet not too shabby, right?

Know what that is? It’s a vacuum reservoir or something. I don’t know what it is. That’s what it is. It’s a vacuum something. By the way, if any of you know what this hose is, let me know in the comments. I spent an hour searching for one and just came up empty. Just like that, I guess I ended up removing the entire bracket for the smog pump. Why? Well, because to take off just the pump, you have to pull the pulley off so you can get to the bolts. It’s easier just to take the whole bracket with the pump still attached. I can always separate them later or sell them as one unit. But for accounting sake, let’s break it down. Smog pump, 80 bucks. Bracket, 75. Now, I bet someone who knows what they’re doing could have stripped this thing in a short afternoon. For me, it took 4 days spread over 3 weeks to get to the point at the end of this video. But hey, I mean, that’s how you learn, right? I mean, at least that’s how I do it.

The AC compressor comes off pretty easy, provided it’s already drained. And just a quick reminder, if it’s not empty, make sure you handle it safely and legally. Uh, mine was already drained, so it was an easy removal. You have to drain it. You have to make sure that you don’t discharge it into the air. Well, that’s another 80 bucks added to the total. Next up, the transmission cooler. That came off quickly too, and I’m hoping to get around 20 bucks for it. Oh, and then there’s that. Not sure what size that is. Oh, it’s that size. Ooh, it’s that size. Now can I actually get this in here? Probably not. Oh, maybe. Hey, look at that. I decided to just cut the power steering pump lines here since it was a pain to remove. The lines aren’t worth anything in this condition anyway. I did gain a valuable lesson in environmentalism, though. Come on, you there, just go in there. Whoops, okay, okay. I thought it was interesting how the power steering lines loop around the front of the chassis here. It’s for cooling, like a poor man’s radiator. I didn’t know that until I worked on this thing. So that’s day three and a cool 255 bucks.

Day four, I decided to get the radiator fan out of the way. I even rented the special tool from the parts store, only to find out I didn’t need it. Turns out the fan had four regular bolts. A socket and strap wrench took care of the job with the clutch included. That’s another 80 bucks. Power steering pump, same story as the smog pump. You have to remove the pulley to get it off the bracket, so I took the whole thing off instead. Now, I could use this pump for my new build, but I’m probably going to go with a saginaw pump, maybe even like a nice chrome one. So this old one is going to go in the sale bin. That’s another 65 bucks for the pump and 50 for the bracket.

I discovered that the intake has one star bolt in the middle on the inside. I’m not sure why they would do that, but clearly, I’m not an engineer. I’m sure there’s a good reason for that. I don’t know what it is. Are you joking? Not only is it a different bolt, but it’s tucked down under and between the intake runners, so the star bit I had originally wouldn’t fit. The base was too big around. Fortunately, like any man card-holding member of society, I never throw away a tool, so all I had to do was search long enough to find what I needed. Please be the right size, kind of small. Please be the right size. There we go, and off comes the upper intake. That right there is a big chunk of aluminum and a big chunk to the kitty.

Remember when I mentioned inheriting someone else’s project? It’s moments like this that remind me that you have to take the bad with the good. Oh, he cut all these. He just cut them all, so these are garbage because he just cut them. Like, he just cut them. I didn’t even realize he did that, but yeah, whoever had it before me just cut them. Just straight up snip, snip, snip, snip, motherfucker. Oh, bastard. My guess is that he tried to get it off reasonably and then probably couldn’t, and then so he just decided, you know, fuck it, I’ll replace all that anyway. But this harness is garbage because you could tell all the wires. So unfortunate. The fuel rails might be worth something, but the harness is garbage. HOH. I thought maybe I dropped that into the unit tank. Doesn’t really matter. I’m taking it all apart anyway, but that would just mean I had to take it apart. I wouldn’t have any choice anymore. Let’s go put garbage in the garbage. This harness would have been around 80 bucks, but the previous owner cut the wires to the injectors. Still, just look at that total down there. I cannot complain. And that’s as far as I got on my 4-day adventure. Let’s head out and take a closer look.

Okay, so here’s how it sits right now. Fuel rails are still on there. I’ll probably go ahead and pull the engine off those. You see, I’ve got my intake holes covered up here. I still got the transmission to get off there and all that kind of stuff. I still got to drain the oil and the fluid. I’ll do that probably before I move it. Obviously, I’ve got this issue with this tire here. It’s pretty much roached. I’m not sure if I can roll it like that or not. I don’t have to go very far, just up out this gate and over to the garage over there. So I got a plan for that. See, yeah, like I said before, I’m leaving the exhaust manifolds on here because I just don’t want those big open gaping holes out into the environment here. I’ll take that stuff off once I pull the engine. I don’t quite yet have a plan for how I’m going to pull the engine in the… I don’t have a tranny hoist, but I do have some jacks and, you know, a lot of wood, so I think I can figure that out. Backyard mechanic special coming at you.

So that’s where we are now. But what’s the plan? Well, this video is just a start of a whole series covering the complete rebuild of this 351 Windsor from pulling it out of the chassis all the way to running it down the strip. My goal is to strip this engine down to the block, take it to the machine shop, build it back up, drop it in the truck, and then take it out for a quarter-mile run. And I’m going to cover every single step of the way for guys like me who don’t really know what they’re doing but they’re ready to learn. Next up is getting that chassis into the garage, and since it can’t move under its own power and it’s heavy as hell even without the body, you’re probably wondering how I’m going to do that. Don’t worry, I got a plan. Stay tuned for that.

Once the chassis is in, I’ll be pulling the engine off and we’ll tear it down together. We’ll go through it with a fine-tooth comb, looking at how the engine’s been treated, what signs to look for during a rebuild, and everything else you need to know when tackling a project like this. Once that’s done, we’ll get the block to the machine shop and talk to the machinist. We’ll cover all the services they offer, what they cost, what they’re for, and why you might need them or not, depending on your build. We’ll go through the whole nine yards. Then we paint the block. After that, I’ll walk you through the entire engine build. We’ll talk about component choices, camshaft, valves, lifters, rotating assembly, everything. I’ll explain why you choose certain parts, how they work together, and how to build the right kind of engine for your needs, whether it’s high torque, high horsepower, street, or strip. And I’ll share why I’m making the choices I am for this build.

Hopefully, by the end of the series, you’ll be able to grab my parts list and replicate my engine build from scratch, even if you’re not a mechanic. My goal is to be that detailed with you guys, especially during the build process. Look, I’ve done my homework. I’ve bought books, I read up on everything, I’ve watched dozens, probably hundreds of YouTube videos, but there’s still a lot that I don’t know. So I hope to bring in a pro to help fill those gaps. When you’re building an engine, missing even one small detail can come back to haunt you later, so I’ll make sure we go over everything step by step. That way, we can learn together. And if I succeed, great. But if I fail, well, you know, that’s great content too because it’ll help you avoid making the same mistakes.

Once it’s built, I want to get this engine on a stand and fire it up first. Then I’ll pull the 3006 out and I’ll go through that process with you so we can talk about what parts need to keep and what to replace, cleaning and painting the engine bay, decluttering and cleaning up the electrical system. Then we can drop the Windsor into the truck, get everything hooked up, and take it out for a test drive. And I want you to be there with me for every step. The ultimate goal? Well, the last series of this episode will hopefully be me taking that truck to the strip and getting a quarter-mile time. That’s where I want to end this series, but not the channel. There’s lots more to do than just the engine. Now, it’s going to take a while. I’m a busy guy. I got a family and a job and a lot of other stuff going on. But my hope is to create a series of videos that you can sit back, watch, and binge like a Netflix series. And by the time you’re done, you’ll know exactly how to take an engine off the chassis, rebuild it, and get it running.

Guys, if you’re excited to follow along with me, here’s the ask: like and subscribe, hit the bell for notifications, and keep up with this build. And if you want to support the channel and help me buy some cool performance parts, grab yourself a hat from the merch store. Thanks again so much for watching, guys. I hope you join me for this adventure, and we will see you next time around the edges. But she’s doing fine, take her away, getting things to shine. She’s consider. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We’ll see you next time.