Tag Bullnose Ford

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today I’m actually out in my bun, driving around, so forgive the bumps and rattles and, you know, some of the noises that happen with an older truck. Today I’m here to talk about the NP435 transmission, which is this puppy right here. That’s what’s in my truck. It is a solid workhorse of a transmission and, uh, it’s certainly worth your consideration if you want to do a, uh, a swap or if you’ve already got one you want to do a rebuild. Uh, it’s probably worth your time. I’m going to get into exactly what everything is, how it works, uh, what all the stats are, that kind of stuff. Keep in mind, uh, this video is Bullnose-centric because it’s Bullnose Garage. So while I know, uh, that the NP435 was used in other vehicles like, um, you know, basically all kinds of vehicles across the board, uh, what I’m going to be focusing on are the Bullnose vehicles, the Fords. So you’re going to see some information in the video that is specific, uh, to the Ford versions. So that’s because I’m a Ford guy, you know, that’s how it works. So while I pop up onto the interstate here and let this engine scream for mercy as it goes into the high fourth gear on the transmission because there’s no overdrive, let’s, uh, go ahead and get into it.

Hello, the NP435. This manual gearbox isn’t just a transmission; it’s a piece of engineering that stood the test of time. Known for its durability and versatility, whether you’re restoring a classic or just curious about what’s under the hood, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know about the NP435, from its gear ratios and shift pattern to the engines it pairs with and how to keep it running smoothly. The NP435 is a four-speed manual gearbox designed with one goal in mind: durability. Built by New Process Gear, a name synonymous with heavy duty, this transmission has been a workhorse in Ford’s lineup since the 1960s. It was a natural fit for the Bullnose trucks and Broncos of the 1980s, providing the kind of robust performance that these vehicles are known for.

Now, what makes the NP435 particularly interesting is its gear setup. You’ve got four forward gears, but they’re not all synchronized. Second through fourth gears are synchronized, making for smooth shifts during regular driving. The first gear, often called the granny gear, and reverse, they’re not synchronized. So if you’re trying to pop into first while still rolling, you’re in for a bit of a grind, literally. But that’s by design because first gear is really meant for when you need serious torque to get moving, especially with a heavy load. So let’s talk gear ratios. The NP435 is known for its particularly low first gear, which is what gives it that reputation as a workhorse. In most Ford applications, you’ll find the following ratios: first gear 6.69 to 1, second gear 3.34 to 1, third gear 1.66 to 1, fourth gear 1 to 1, or direct drive, and reverse 8.26 to 1. There’s also a version with a slightly less extreme first gear at 4.85 to 1, but the low ratio version is what you’ll most commonly find in these Bullnose trucks. That first gear at 6.69 to 1 isn’t something you’d use in everyday driving unless your everyday involves towing a tractor out of a ditch or crawling over boulders. It’s all about giving you the torque to move heavy loads or navigate through terrain with confidence.

The shift pattern on this transmission is pretty straightforward. Here’s how it’s laid out: first gear is up and to the left, second is down to the left, third is straight up in the middle, fourth is straight down in the middle, and reverse, that’s far right and down. Now this pattern is practical, especially for a transmission designed to handle tough jobs. First gear is intentionally out of the way so you don’t accidentally engage it when you’re moving through the more commonly used gears. Moving on to the physical aspects of the NP435, this transmission is built like a tank. The case is made of cast iron, which gives it that characteristic durability but also adds some serious heft. At around 130 lbs, this isn’t the kind of transmission you casually toss around the garage. It’s hefty for a reason; it’s built to withstand the kind of stress that comes with heavy duty use. For the four version, the input shaft, which connects to your engine, has a diameter of 1 and 1/16 in with 10 splines. You’ll also notice a power takeoff or PTO port on the passenger side of the case. This cast iron construction and solid internals are part of why the NP435 has such a loyal following. It’s not flashy, but it’s the kind of component that you can rely on when the going gets tough.

So what can you bolt this transmission up to? The NP435 is versatile, fitting a range of engines that you typically find in Bullnose Ford trucks and Broncos. Whether you’re running the venerable Ford 300 inline 6 or one of the V8s like the 302, 351 Windsor, 400, or even the big 460, the NP435 has you covered. This flexibility made it a popular choice in a wide range of Ford trucks, from daily drivers to heavy duty workhorses. When it comes to fluids, the NP435 calls for SAE 50 weight oil or 80W90 gear oil. You might be tempted to use modern synthetic oils, and that’s fine, but make sure they’re compatible with the brass synchronizers inside the transmission. These old school gearboxes weren’t designed with synthetic fluids in mind, so using the wrong type can cause more harm than good. The transmission holds about 4.5 quarts, and it’s wise to change it every 30,000 to 50,000 miles, especially if you’re working the truck hard. The NP435 typically pairs with the mechanical clutch linkage in these trucks, which is straightforward and reliable. Depending on your specific setup, the clutch diameter usually hovers around 11 in, but there’s some variation depending on the engine and vehicle configuration.

When it comes to transfer cases, the NP435 is highly compatible with several options, making it a favorite among those building serious off-roaders or towing rigs. You’ve got the NP205, a gear-driven, highly durable transfer case that’s pretty much bulletproof. Then there’s the NP28, which is chain-driven and a bit lighter but still solid for most uses. The Borg Warner 1345 is also another option, reliable, chain-driven, and well-suited to off-road adventures. This compatibility with multiple transfer cases makes the NP435 a versatile option, whether you’re building a truck for the trail or the highway. Now cooling, unlike modern transmissions that might have dedicated cooling systems, the NP435 keeps it simple. It relies on air cooling, with a cast iron case acting as a heat sink to dissipate the warmth generated during operation. For most driving conditions, this setup works fine. However, if you’re planning on running it hard, whether that’s towing heavy loads or spending long hours off-road, make sure the transmission gets plenty of airflow. Overheating isn’t a common issue, but it’s something to be mindful of in extreme conditions.

Speaking of running hard, the NP435 can handle up to 450 ft-lbs of torque. That’s a significant amount, and it’s more than enough for the engines it typically pairs with. Whether you’re hauling, towing, or off-roading, this transmission is built to take the stress without breaking a sweat. Driving with the NP435 is an experience that feels more mechanical, more connected to the truck. Low first gear, often called granny gear, is great for when you need to get a heavy load moving or navigate tough terrain, but in everyday driving, most people start in second gear. The shifts are deliberate; there’s no rushing this transmission, and that’s part of its charm. On the highway, the direct drive fourth gear allows you to cruise comfortably, although the RPMs are higher than what you’d see with modern overdrive transmissions. But that’s the trade-off: you get strength and simplicity, but not necessarily the refinement of newer gearboxes. The NP435 shines in situations where durability and reliability are more important than smoothness. It’s excellent for off-road driving, towing, and any situation where you need to trust your transmission to get the job done.

When it comes to keeping your NP435 in good shape, regular maintenance, as usual, is key. Fluid changes are a must, especially if you’re putting the transmission through its paces. Luckily, routine service like this is straightforward, although the weight and bulk of the NP435 can make more in-depth work a bit challenging. Rebuilding the NP435 isn’t overly complicated compared to other transmissions, but it does require some mechanical know-how and the right tools. A full rebuild kit will set you back somewhere between $400 and $700, depending on the quality of the parts. Uh, if you need to replace major components or if the transmission is in particularly rough shape, a professional rebuild might be in order, and that could run you anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500. Given the longevity of this transmission, though, it could be a solid investment. The NP435 is renowned for its durability; with proper maintenance, this transmission can easily last over 200,000 miles. It’s a workhorse designed to handle tough conditions, whether that’s off-road, towing, or just the rigors of daily driving. But like any mechanical component, it does have its potential issues. Synchronizers in second through fourth gear can wear over time, especially if the transmission hasn’t been well-maintained. Bearings can also wear out, particularly if the fluid hasn’t been changed regularly. And if you’re doing a lot of heavy off-roading, the input shaft might show signs of wear sooner than expected. Despite these potential issues, the NP435’s reputation for reliability is well-earned. It’s built to last, and with a little care, it will.

The NP435 has been around since the 1960s, making it one of the more enduring designs in heavy-duty transmissions. Ford used it extensively across its truck lineup, from the F100 to the F350 and even in the Broncos. Here’s a quick rundown of where you might find one: at the Ford F100 from 1966 to 1983, the Ford F-150 from 1975 to 1986, the Ford F250 from 1966 to 1987, the Ford F350 from 1966 to 1987, and the Ford Bronco from 1966 to 1977. The NP435 was favored for its ability to handle the demands of these trucks, whether that was for work, off-road, or just reliable daily driving. And thanks to its popularity and long production run, the NP435 enjoys pretty strong aftermarket support. Whether you’re looking for a rebuild kit, replacement parts, or performance upgrades, there is no shortage of options. Popular modifications include upgrading the bearings, altering gear ratios for specific applications, and modifying the shifter for a shorter throw, especially useful in off-road setups. And this transmission might not have the glamour of modern units, but its reliability and the wealth of available parts and upgrades make it a favorite among enthusiasts.

So that all sounds great. The NP435 is strong, it’s reliable, it’s heavy-duty, and it can handle pretty much whatever you throw at it. And, uh, I’m pulling right out and putting in something different. Ed, Ed, why do you do this? You’re doing this to your 3006, and now you’re doing it to your NP435 too. Why do you keep changing things? Why do you keep pulling the most reliable components out of your truck? Well, to start with, the NP435 is a four-speed with a really low first gear. Now that’s great for heavy-duty tasks, but it can feel a bit clunky and unnecessary on the street, and I’m building a street truck. And I always start off in second gear and can count on one hand the times I’ve used first gear in a real-world situation. The shifts are heavy, and there’s no synchro in first, which means I’ve got to double clutch if I want to drop down into first while rolling. Now for some folks, that’s part of the charm. There’s a raw mechanical feel that reminds you that you’re driving something built to last. But if talking about refinement for a street queen is what my truck will be, the NP435 leaves a bit to be desired. The shifts are more of a workout compared to modern transmissions, and you’re going to feel every bit of that ruggedness in your hands. It’s not the smoothest operator, and on the highway, that missing fifth gear means my Windsor is going to be revving higher than I’m going to like. It gets the job done, but it’s not what I would call a relaxing drive.

So my choice? The ZF5 is a 5-speed manual, and that extra gear makes a world of difference when you’re just out for a drive. For starters, the ZF5 is a more refined transmission all around. It’s got synchronized gears across the board, which means shifts are smoother and easier, even in first. Everything about the ZF5 feels more polished and suited to street driving. The gear ratios are more evenly spaced, which will give me better control over the power from my built 351 Windsor. And where the ZF5 really shines is that fifth gear. On the highway, it lets the engine settle into a nice, comfortable RPM, making for a quieter, more fuel-efficient drive. And you’ll notice the difference right away: less noise, less strain on the engine, and an overall smoother ride. So if, like me, you’re setting up your truck for street use and you want to enjoy those horses without feeling like you’re in a tug of war with the gearbox, I’d say the ZF5 is the way to go. It’s smoother, quieter, and just more enjoyable for everyday driving. The NP435 has its charm, no doubt, but for a refined street experience, the ZF5 will make the truck a joy to drive, whether I’m cruising around town or hitting the highway.

All that said, the NP435 isn’t just a transmission; it’s a testament to durable, no-nonsense engineering. While it might lack the smoothness and refinement of more modern gearboxes, that strength and reliability more than make up for it. Whether you’re restoring a classic Bullnose Ford or just need a transmission you can count on, the NP435 is a solid choice, and it’s built to last. So as you guys can see and probably hear, I’m out here on the interstate going about 65 mph, and that’s about as fast as I can get this rig to go using the, uh, NP435 and my inline 6. And at 65, I’m in fourth gear, spinning about 26 or 2700 RPM, so it’s pretty high. It’d be nice to have an overdrive.

All right, guys, well that’s the NP435, everything that I know or pretend to know about this solid workhorse of a transmission. Hopefully, you learned something; that’s always my goal in all my videos is to, uh, impart knowledge, take the stuff that I’ve learned, stuff that I’ve researched, and pass it on to folks, uh, to maybe help them out a little bit. So you know, now’s the time that I ask, if you really want to support the channel, I’d appreciate a like, a subscribe, uh, drop a comment down below. Hey, if you really want to support me and get some cool stuff, check out my merch store. I’ve got a lot of really cool designs on there that I’m really happy with, you know, uh, especially get here if you, uh, like a little bit of granny gear. Yeah, get your granny on. Was that creepy? I feel like that was creepy. All right, guys, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys. Oh, and by the way, that link is bullnosegarage.com merch. Get your granny on. Thanks again for watching, guys. We will see you next time. Oh.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. What is a bullnose and why do I have one? A bullnose is a Ford truck built from the years 1980 to 1986, like the one behind me. This one here is a 1985 F-150. Bullnose trucks are F-150, F-250, F-350, or Bronco, anywhere from ’80 to ’86. And why are they called a bullnose? Well, because the front of the truck looks kinda like a bull’s nose, if you imagine.

So why do I own a bullnose? Well, it’s a project truck for me. I’ve always loved Ford trucks. In fact, my daily driver is a 2007 Ford F-150, so the F-150 platform is something I know and love very much. And I wanted something older that I could work on, something carbureted, something that was easy for me to sort of sink my teeth into and learn how to rebuild engines and do all the kind of mechanical stuff. See, my entire life I’ve been a computer guy. I write programs for a living, so I never really worked very much with my hands. And I thought, what better way to get my hands dirty than to do it on an old Ford truck? So, my project.

So why did I choose this particular truck? After all, I had to drive all the way to San Antonio, Texas, to pick it up. Well, I couldn’t find any trucks like what I was looking for around here. So what does that mean? Well, first of all, as you can see, it’s in pretty good shape. The paint’s a little faded, but there’s no rust, and the body is really straight. So that’s one thing. Another thing that’s pretty obvious is that it’s a short bed. Now, I was looking for a short bed because I want a truck that’s going to be a little bit sportier, because I’m planning on putting a few more horses under the hood and making like a little street truck out of it. Now, I’m not going to do any kind of racing or anything, but what I’m going for would be better with a short bed, so I wanted to make sure I got one of those.

It also runs really well. I basically could just drive it right out of the box, except for the fact that it’s a manual. So I knew I wanted a manual because I’d never driven a stick shift before in my life. And I figured, what better way to learn how to drive a stick than to buy a vehicle that I can’t drive unless I know how to drive a stick? So I had to teach myself, and that’s what I did. And I’m glad to say that it works. I can now drive a stick shift. At least I can drive this stick shift.

The last thing that I wanted to make sure that I had, no question, was air conditioning. I mean, because come on, I live in New Mexico, and it is hot as in New Mexico. Let me go ahead and start her up, and I’ll let you take a listen. The engine in this truck is an inline six, and it’s got an NP 435 manual transmission. That’s a four-speed, but it’s effectively a three-speed. The first speed is granny low. I mean, I could throw this thing into first gear, get out, and walk alongside it. So you basically never use first gear in a truck like this.

Even though I pretty much just started my channel last month, I’ve had the truck for a couple of years, so I’ve had some opportunity to do just a little bit of work to it. So let me just briefly go over some of the stuff that I’ve already done. I’ve changed all the fluids, including this stuff. I’ve replaced both side mirrors. I’ve replaced the door and window seals, and I replaced the door striker. I’ve repositioned the license plate so the tailgate doesn’t smack it when it comes down. I’ve changed the battery twice. I have replaced the alternator. I replaced my marker lights and updated the blinkers. I replaced my tail lights. I’ve wrapped the steering wheel, and I’ve replaced the rear view mirror. I added LED dash lights and LED interior lights. I let someone from Craigslist load something into the back of my truck with a forklift and bend the bed. So that’s my bullnose.

But I’m not done. I mean, I started this channel with the intent of making videos for people who may have a similar truck or similar interests, and mostly because I’ve never done this before. And this is all gonna be a learning experience for me. And so I’m kind of hoping that by going through this and having a learning experience that, uh, if I film it, maybe I can help some other folks. So let’s talk about what my plans are for the bullnose and for this channel, and I got a whole bunch of them.

So obviously the big deal is a new engine. The truck right now has a 306. It’s an inline six. These motors are bulletproof, and there’s going to be a lot of people, a whole lot, that are going to tell me that I shouldn’t swap the motor, that the 306 is one of the greatest engines that Ford ever made, and it’s ridiculous to pull a perfectly good running 306 out of a truck and put in something different. But a 306 is not the engine that I want for my application. What I want is something with a little more punch. So what I’m putting in there is a 351 small block, and I actually already have one, but that’s a future video. Eventually, I would like to stroke it, probably to 408, and get between 400 and 500 horsepower. But that’s a long ways down the road. I think to begin with, I’m just going to go ahead and do a regular engine rebuild, and I might put a couple of power adders on there, but I haven’t quite decided what I’m going to do with that just yet.

And of course, um, I’m going to do basically everything that I can to make the truck as nice as possible. So we’ll do some interior work. I’m going to work on the interior molding, make it look nice. I’m not sure exactly what I’m going to do, if I’m going to spray paint it or if I’m going to wrap it with some kind of fabric or, you know, what I’m going to do there. I do know I want to put some kind of sound deadening on the inside. I do want to add carpet. Right now it’s just that old rubber mat on the ground. I want to take care of that. I’m going to have to reupholster the seats or get real nice seat covers, but I think I’m probably going to end up reupholstering.

Um, so I’m also going to do a lot of electrical work. When I inherited the truck, well, when I purchased the truck, whoever I inherited it from did some questionable electrical work, so I need to go in and take care of some of that. I’m going to replace the headlights with probably LED headlights, and eventually I’ll be putting in a stereo system, probably putting speakers in the door panels and adding things wherever I can figure out how to add them. I might try to put a double din radio in there. I’m not quite sure yet. I’ve got an extra dash piece, um, bezel for the radio, so just, uh, I screw it up, I’ve got an extra, so we might try that for an episode.

Um, I gotta change the horn. The horn that’s in it right now is stupid. Maybe one of these times I’ll honk it for you and let you hear it. It’s wearing, it’s really terrible, so I want to upgrade the horn. Um, at some point I may paint the truck. I’m not sure if I have the ability to actually spray paint a vehicle, but I think I’d like to try. I’ve watched a lot of videos on it. I’ve seen a lot of instructional videos and read a lot of websites and forums and stuff. And, uh, we’ll get it sanded down and strip back probably to metal and put some primer on it and get sanded and do all the blocking and everything else and then pick a color and maybe paint it.

I’ve also thought about putting vinyl on it in terms of like a vinyl wrap, although I wouldn’t wrap the entire truck, but I might wrap parts of it rather than do a two-tone paint job because I’m not sure I could pull off a good two-tone paint job, especially since I’ve never painted a vehicle before. I’ve thought fleetingly about doing a crown vic swap. So for older Ford trucks, especially older ’79 or older, the generation before mine, a lot of guys put crown vic front ends in them from 2002 and forward Crown Victorias because they basically just bolt right in, and they’re more of a car suspension, so they handle power much easier and they ride much better. You can do a crown vic swap on a bullnose. It’s a lot more work than, um, it’s called a dent side from the earlier generation up to ’79, but it can be done. So I’m thinking about that.

Regardless of whether I do that or not, I’m going to have to upgrade the suspension on the truck just because it’s a little sloppy, and I’m putting a little bit heavier engine in there, and it’s going to have more power, so I want to make sure that I’m not falling down on my suspension. Um, I’ve thought about upgrading the transmission. A, uh, NP435 isn’t exactly a race transmission. Not that I’m gonna be racing it, but it’s a very solid truck transmission that drives like a truck, and it could probably handle four or five hundred horsepower as long as you’re not working it too hard. But what I’d really like to have is the ZF5. The F5 transmission is a heavy-duty, still a truck transmission, but it’s a five-speed with overdrive. And, uh, the fact that my truck doesn’t have overdrive right now is rough, um, especially on the interstate, you know, going 65, 70 miles an hour, it’s spinning pretty high. So I’d really like to have an overdrive transmission.

If I had all kinds of money, I’d go out and get a TKO transmission and, you know, put one of those in there, but they’re big bucks, so we’ll see what happens. And I’ve also thought about maybe changing the rear end, uh, getting a locking differential or changing the gears. Um, to be honest with you, I don’t remember exactly what the gears in there are right now. I’d have to look it up. I have it written down somewhere, but I’ve thought about changing the gears and doing a gear swap in the back and adding a locking differential. Obviously, I’ll be upgrading the tires and the rims. In fact, that’s probably coming in the next couple of weeks, and, uh, I’ll be doing things here and there to spruce the truck up and, uh, just make it better overall.

So I’ve got a lot of plans, and hopefully they pan out, and hopefully you guys get to see them because I’m really excited about doing all this stuff on camera and, uh, getting some of this stuff out there, especially when it comes to the engine. I’ve got some really interesting ideas as to what I might do in terms of, you know, pistons and heads and camshaft and that kind of stuff and how I’m going to get to the horsepower numbers that I eventually want to get to. Um, thinking about maybe using some cheap eBay parts just to see how they work. I mean, I’ve got a donor engine, so if I blow it up, then, well, I mean, I still got the original 306 I could drop back in if I had to, or, you know, 351 ones aren’t that hard to find in that junkyard somewhere. So yeah, I may have a little bit of leeway to screw up. I mean, it’s my first engine build ever. I’ve never even worked in a small engine before, so, um, I may be biting off more than I can chew, but hey, you know, that’s part of the channel. That’s, uh, that’s part of what we’re doing here.

All right guys, there you go. That’s a bullnose. That’s my bullnose. That’s what I’ve done, what I plan to do, my plans for the channel, all that stuff. So if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. As always, thanks for watching guys. We’ll see you next time.

Hey folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today we are on the way to, uh, pick up some parts. Anybody who’s done any vehicle restoration, especially of an older vehicle, knows that parts are very important. In fact, they’re one of the hardest parts of restoring a vehicle. So actually, the parts that I’m going to pick up today are some interior parts for the inside of the Bullnose: um, door pillars, visors, and actually, uh, the whole dash piece. It’s not the gauge or any of the trim, but it’s the actual dash, big plastic piece itself. And, uh, you can’t find those. You can’t buy them online anymore. They don’t even reproduce them. So the only place to get them is from old vehicles. And I happen to have somebody here in town who does sort of the same thing that I do, and he goes out and gets old vehicles, tears them down, strips them for parts, and then sells those parts on Facebook Marketplace, which is where I found him. And he’s already got the parts to our part. All I got to do is go pick them up. So that’s what I’m doing now.

As anybody who’s done an old vehicle restoration can tell you, sometimes the hardest thing is parts. In fact, I would wager a guess that the hardest thing is parts. Not just sometimes. A lot of these old vehicles, some parts you can get reproduced, but a lot of them you can’t. Again, in my case, I can’t find these door pillars, and the ones in my truck aren’t that bad, but they’re cracked. And if I wanted to try to repair that, I’d have to, I don’t know, do some plastic work or fiberglass or something, and I don’t want to do that. It’s much easier for me to find the parts that come out of another truck. Now, you can sometimes go online to find these parts, places like LMC Truck for this particular truck or CarParts.com, used to be JC Whitney. Sometimes you can get them from eBay. Sometimes you can get them from Amazon, although you don’t usually get the older parts from Amazon. But so far, my best resource has actually been the guy I’m going to see right now.

So if you can somehow forge a relationship with somebody in your area that has the kind of part that you need, then you’re golden. You can always go to a pull-apart. In my area, there’s not a whole lot of pull-aparts around. Now, there’s a lot of yards that have old vehicles, but they don’t advertise, and you have to just kind of drive up and hope that somebody’s there. And the pull-apart parts don’t tend to have vehicles that are as old as my Bullnose. Sometimes they do, but you got to get in there really quick. So again, I have found that the best place really is Facebook Marketplace. Another great option that you have, and one that I will almost certainly use, is finding a parts vehicle. That is, finding a vehicle that is the same general make and model as the one that you’re trying to restore. In my case, it’s an ’80 to an ’86 F-150, 250, 350, or maybe a Bronco. Finding one that’s going for a cheap price because either it doesn’t run or it’s got some other kind of a mechanical issue, and you load that thing up on a trailer, you tow it home, and then you can scavenge the parts that you need out of that. In a lot of cases, that’s going to be about the only place that you can find the kind of parts that you’re going to need. And if you’ve got a vehicle that’s more or less complete that way, then you can pull everything off of it, and then whatever you don’t need, you can sell.

For me, I’m both lucky and unlucky to live where I live. I live in the Southwest, so vehicles don’t really rot down here. They last forever. You know, the truck that I have is from ’85, doesn’t have a spot of rust on it. A whole lot of vehicles you see driving around are really old and vintage because they just don’t rust down here. But that does mean that the interiors wear out, and also especially the dashes get cracked really bad because the sun shines in and just destroys any kind of plastic or anything really down here that the UV can get. You know, especially on the older vehicles that don’t have the same UV protection in the glass that the newer vehicles do. So it’s sort of a double-edged sword. I can find great bodies and great frames, really nice metal parts, but all the plastic is just destroyed, and a lot of the trim on the outside of the vehicles is also that way, also destroyed by the sun. So it kind of depends on where you live as to what you can find and what you can’t in a junkyard or from a local dealer. And that’s where you may have to go on to eBay. But what’s nice is that if you live in a place like the Southwest where I could find a great body, maybe not such great interior bits, but a great body, then what I can do is I can pull off the parts that I need and then turn around and sell the parts that are nice that I don’t need because my other vehicle is also nice. I can sell those on eBay to somebody from the North who needs rust-free parts, and that just gives me more money to play with.

Let’s take a look at some of the parts that I got, and I’ll use them to kind of go over some of the things that I think are going to be important to finding parts for older vehicles or for restoration vehicles. So we’ll start with these door pillars. These are the door pillars that I got from that guy locally. They look pretty good on first inspection. They’re the same color as the interior of my truck, and the pictures online look fantastic. But if you look real close, I’m not sure you can see this or not, but there’s a crack right there, and that’s exactly the same that the door pillars in my truck are cracked. And that’s the entire reason I went to go pick these up was because I needed to find a way to get that crack fixed. And the easiest way is to find old stock, so that’s something to note. One thing is understand that if you find old parts in a junkyard or from someone on Facebook in a vehicle that’s already been on the road, it’s gonna be used. There’s nothing you can do about that. The pictures on Facebook aren’t going to pick this stuff up. As a matter of fact, I didn’t even really notice it until I got home. Now, it was still a good price, so I don’t regret buying it because it’s always good to have a backup, which is another good tip. Always have a backup of the parts, especially parts that you can’t find anywhere else because if I want to try to maybe paint this or fix this with some super glue or some epoxy or something, I can do that, and if I screw it up, I’ve still got my original. It’s in my truck, so that’s not a big deal.

One thing to note about parts that you can’t find online and you have to go somewhere to get, like an older truck or an older vehicle, is that a lot of these parts always fail the same way. For example, these here, this crack right there, this one here, exact same crack in the exact same place, and both of my pillars in my truck have cracks in this exact same way, in this exact same place. So a lot of these parts fail the exact same way, whether it’s a weak design or just the way that people take them on and put them off. For whatever reason, a lot of parts tend to fail the same way, so be on the lookout for that.

Another part that I got was these visors. Now, these visors actually are in quite a bit better shape than the ones that I have in my truck. And again, what’s great about these is that if I need to, I could probably take this all apart and redo it. You know, I don’t know if you reupholster visors, but put new coverings on them. And then if I screw them up, well, I’m only out the money that I use to buy this stuff, so, and it wasn’t that much. I got a good deal on it.

The last thing that I got was this interior complete interior dash piece, which is nice because it’s got the glove box, it’s got the AC vents, it’s got the entire AC duct work behind it. Now, it’s got the environmental controls, but these don’t match my truck because this one’s got a selector switch for front and rear gas tank, and my truck’s only got one gas tank, so I can’t use this. But I might be able to pull this off and sell it, or even in the condition that this one’s in, probably more likely give it to somebody who’s going to need it, and then I can forge a friendship with someone who needs the same kind of parts that I do.

Another good thing to note, which I don’t have an example for here, although the AC unit controls here is kind of an example of this, is just because the part fits a year that comes off of your vehicle or a generation, maybe the same truck. For example, I believe these parts probably came out of a Bronco, which is the same generation as my truck and generally has the same interior pieces. But just because they came off the exact same vehicle, the exact same year, doesn’t necessarily mean that they’re going to fit. So you got to make sure that you buy parts that you know are going to fit your vehicle. So these parts that you need, just, yeah, if you need to take them off your vehicle first and inspect them to make sure that they’re the right fit. You could, uh, a lot of times these parts have part numbers on the back. I don’t know if you can see that right there, but there’s part numbers right there, and those part numbers will tell you exactly what part you’re looking for. So always be, uh, cognizant of that. That just because it comes off a vehicle the same make and model and maybe even same year doesn’t always mean that it’s going to fit. On the other hand, some parts from vehicles of a completely different generation may fit yours. So for example, this is an ’85 F-150. The generation goes from ’80 to ’86, but the following generation of trucks from ’87 to ’91, a lot of times parts and pieces from those trucks will fit directly into this truck. Parts of the chassis, parts of the suspension, the interior parts like seats, that kind of stuff sometimes just a basically direct swap.

So learn in your vehicle what different generations parts are interchangeable. A lot of times, uh, especially, you know, for this truck here, there’s a site called Gary’s Garage Mahal that has a lot of interchangeability information, and, uh, those sites are really invaluable. So if you can find a site like that that has interchangeability information for your vehicle to other vehicles of the same make and model but different generations, that’s a great resource when you do find parts that are hard to find for your vehicles. And if you can get a good deal on them, even if they’re not perfect, you may want to go ahead and grab them because there’s a lot of ways that you can refinish parts like this. Even with the crack, you know, I could super glue this crack. I could perhaps put some epoxy in here. Um, I could repaint this whole thing, and if you get textured spray paint, then you cover this up and never even know the crack was there. And as long as you seal the crack well enough so that it doesn’t reappear when you put your screw in, then you’re good. You could put fabric over top of this. I’ve looked at doing maybe some canvas or some other kind of fabric that you can get some spray adhesive and spray on and then roll on top of this. And again, if I’ve got an extra piece and I screw it up, oh well, I’ve got the original still in my truck. Pieces like these visors, you could cover these with basically whatever you wanted. I could go get some denim and cover them with denim. You can make the look in your vehicle whatever you want. Now, unless you’re going for specifically the OE original equipment look, then your options are more limited. But I’m not really doing that. I’m just kind of going for what I think looks cool, so I could cover these with anything I want.

Another option that you have, especially for plastic parts, is to dip them. So I may, I’m not sure yet, but I might dip my dash. Dipping is a really cool procedure where you have a film that goes on top of a tub of water, and you dip a plastic part into the film, and the film attaches to the plastic and then wraps around it. If you’ve never seen any videos of it, it’s really cool. You should check that out. I’m definitely thinking about maybe doing that for some parts in my dash.

So I talked earlier about how I got these parts from Facebook Marketplace, and there’s a reason why Facebook Marketplace is my favorite place to get old parts. We’ll get into that in just a little bit, but before I do, let’s go over some of the places where you can get new parts for trucks, especially like the ’85 F-150 behind me. So you can go to LMC Truck. It’s lmctruck.com. They’ve got parts for Ford, Chevy, GMC, Dodge, all these different kind of older trucks, and they’re a fantastic place to get whatever parts you can that are reproduced. You can usually find them at LMC. You can also go to Rock Auto. Rock Auto is a good place to get, uh, automotive parts, more mechanical parts. Usually, you can go to CarParts.com, it’s formerly JC Whitney. I’ve already said that. Of course, eBay is a fairly decent place to get parts, especially you can get new or used parts from eBay. eBay is the place where I would go to sell parts if I parted out a vehicle because you could also go to Craigslist, but your local area usually, especially in a smaller area like I live, you don’t have a lot of options to sell especially specialty parts for older vehicles. So eBay is usually your best bet there. It’s also your best bet to find those parts because of that same reason. You can go to Amazon. Amazon sells basically everything except for old used parts you can’t find anywhere else. Um, of course, there’s the old standbys: AutoZone, O’Reilly’s, Napa, those kind of places, but you’re probably not going to find vintage parts there. That’s for things like, you know, oil filters and spark plugs, that kind of stuff. Um, if you’re doing a performance build, then you can look at places like Summit Racing or Jegs to get your performance parts. And, uh, there’s always, again, the option of going to a pick-apart, although I’m not a huge fan of pick-a-parts. Again, because the ones around here especially don’t have vehicles that really match the years and generations that I’m looking for. And then you have to bring a bunch of tools with you. You’ve got to go into the yard. Sometimes it’s muddy and dirty and nasty and disgusting. You got to crawl around, and you have to know, which is kind of a downside for me, is you have to know how to get to the part that you want. I’m a rank amateur at this stuff, so even though I know where the part is and what the part is, it may be hard for me out in the field to know exactly how to get it out. And I don’t necessarily want to go take a Sawzall to somebody’s, you know, junk or truck, even though it’s a junker truck, just to get the part that I need. So I tend not to go to pick-a-parts unless I really, really need a specific part that I can’t find anywhere else. And then, of course, like I said before, there is Facebook.

So let me give you an idea of why I think Facebook is really, right now, as of October 2020, the best place to find some of these old parts. Now, the complaint that I had earlier about Craigslist was that it’s only good for the local area, and you may say, ‘Well, Ed, that’s the same problem with Facebook Marketplace.’ You only get results from your local area, and that’s true. You do only get results from your local area. But Facebook has something that you really should take advantage of if you’re restoring an older vehicle, and that’s Facebook groups. Because I guarantee you, no matter what vehicle you’re trying to restore, there is a Facebook group for your vehicle. There is at least half a dozen Facebook groups for this truck right behind me. There’s a Bullnose group, there’s a Ford truck group, there’s a group for the engine that I’m using, there’s probably a group for whether or not the truck is lifted, there’s a group probably for the color of the truck. I don’t know if that’s true or not, but there’s a group basically for anything, and there’s new groups being started all the time on Facebook. If you join these groups, you’re going to get together with a bunch of people who are like-minded, who have the same sort of passion for that vehicle that you do, and they probably know collectively way more than you’ll ever know. Even if you’re an expert, you can always ask the group questions to get answers to, you know, whatever problems you may be facing with your vehicle. And if you’re looking for a specific part, nobody’s going to know how to find that part better than this humongous group of people who work specifically on that kind of truck out of a passion for that. Well, I said truck, but whatever vehicle it is, right? I deal with trucks, so I say truck. But, you know, in my case, if I was looking for, for instance, the trim. Now, I’ve got a chrome trim around my wheel wells here, but there are a lot of these F-150s and Broncos that have trim up on the side or they come down a little bit further down, and a lot of that trim they don’t reproduce, and it’s almost impossible to find. Trucks that did have that trim a lot of times didn’t survive, and the ones that did have the trim and did survive, the trim can be in really bad shape. So maybe somebody removed it. Trucks like that in a junkyard, the guys that know that this trim is worth a lot of money go and scavenge that trim pretty much right away. If you need that kind of a trim or that kind of a part for your vehicle, the only place that you’re going to be able to find it with any kind of reliability is going to be these groups. Now, you may have to pay a pretty penny for it, but I have been shocked at the number of times that I have seen someone ask for a part that is incredibly rare or incredibly strange or something I’ve never even knew came standard on some of these trucks, and I’m thinking, ‘Man, they’re never going to find that part.’ And within a couple of hours, somebody responds and says, ‘Yeah, I got one of those in my shed. I got one of those in my garage. PM me and we’ll get together.’ That stuff happens all the time. So if you’re restoring a vehicle and you’re looking for these parts, join a group. Join a group on Facebook. Even if you don’t have a Facebook, I mean, who doesn’t have a Facebook? But even if you don’t have a Facebook, it’s worth joining Facebook just for one of these groups. Learn how to use it. Learn how to do it because if there’s a part you’re looking for specifically, that’s where you’re going to find it, is one of these Facebook groups.

There you go, guys. Parts, you need them, you want them, you got to have them, and those are the only ways that I know how to get them. Now, I’m sure there are other ways, and if you know other ways or better ways, please let me know. Drop it in the comments, send me a private message, whatever you got to do, and I’ll, you know, make a video about it later. But yeah, let me know what your best way to get parts are. For me, these are the ways that I know how to get them. So as I said before, parts for these old vehicles, sometimes they’re the hardest part. Now come on, I’m a new dad. I gotta be able to make dad jokes. That’s just part of who I am now. So if you don’t like puns, you’re probably on the wrong channel. All right, guys, as always, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, and we’ll see you next time.