Tag Engine Swap

Imagine this: you’re in a cluttered garage, the scent of old oil heavy in the air, and some friend of a friend mechanic is elbow deep under the hood, grumbling, “Well, it’s a Ford, but it’s not one of the good ones.” Welcome to the strange and sometimes disappointing world of Ford’s lesser-known engines. These power plants that never got the fanfare or hero worship of, say, a 302 or a big block 460. Today, let’s shine a light on two oddballs, the ones you only hear about when someone’s squinting in an old factory option list: the SX V6 and the 255 V8. Now, these engines aren’t the mighty Cleveland or the famed Windsor family members that everyone drools over at car shows. No, these are the forgotten kids at the family reunion. But before you turn away, consider this: these engines came to life during a time when Ford was trying to navigate new emissions regulations, stricter fuel economy rules, and the oil crisis panic. They’re like those weird cousins at Thanksgiving—awkward at first but full of fascinating stories. Want to break the ice?

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And so here’s the real question: why should you care? Well, because understanding these engines is like getting a secret peek into Ford’s inner thought process back then, an era defined by compromise, creativity, and a dash of desperation. And who knows, maybe one of these engines is the perfect quirky choice for your next project. It might not be a tire shredder, but it’ll definitely earn a nod and a chuckle at your next Cars and Coffee meetup. So crack open a cold one, settle in, and let’s give these overlooked motors their 15 minutes of fame.

Hello! So you might be asking, why lump these two misfits together? Well, both the SX V6 and the 255 V8 represent a particular historical moment for Ford. Picture the late 1970s to early ’80s: emission laws were tightening faster than a lug nut at a pit stop, gas mileage became the new Holy Grail, and automakers were scrambling to make cars cleaner and thriftier at the pump. The big thirsty V8s of the ’60s and early ’70s suddenly looked like dinosaurs, and Ford had to figure out something new, something that could pass regulations without guzzling gas like a frat house kegger. These engines were Ford’s attempts at that balancing act. The Essex and the 255 were part of the experimental toolkit, so to speak. Sure, they didn’t redefine performance or become icons of efficiency, but they do tell us a lot about how manufacturers scramble for answers. And let’s be honest, when you’re talking about unusual or offbeat Ford engines, these two tend to come up in the same breath. Neither has a big fan base or much love, and both carry that head-scratching, “Why did Ford do this?” mystique. Side by side, they paint a clearer picture of what was happening under the Blue Oval’s roof at the time.

And finally, for my fellow Bullnose enthusiasts—that’s Ford trucks between 1980 and ’86—there’s a practical reason. The 255 V8 actually showed up in some early Bullnose trucks, even if it wasn’t exactly a top choice. And the 3.8L SX V6 also made a brief appearance, but only in small numbers of light-duty F100s during the ’82 to ’82 model years. While neither engine became iconic, both reflect Ford’s willingness to roll the dice, even if those bets didn’t quite pay off. Understanding one gives context to the other, and together they make a perfect pair for this video.

The Ford SX V6 came onto the scene in the 1980s. Now keep in mind, I’m talking about the North American version made in the S6 engine plant in Windsor, Ontario, not the UK version made in Dagenham, Essex, starting in the ’60s. They are not the same, not even close, which can be confusing. So the, uh, the North American version first debuted in the 1982 Thunderbird, got put in the LTD, and later snuck into the Mustang lineup. This engine soldiered on through the ’90s and beyond, even showing up as a supercharged option in the Thunderbird Super Coupe. The final version, a longer-stroked 4.2L, ended its production in the 2007 F-150. I mentioned it’s used in Bullnose trucks earlier, but it wasn’t exactly common. While most F-series trucks of that era stuck with the stalwart inline sixes and V8s, the 3.8L SX V6 did appear in a small number of base model F100s, particularly in Canada. It was a rarity in the lineup and wasn’t offered in heavier-duty models. But that doesn’t mean the enthusiasts haven’t toyed with the idea or even attempted a swap. Thanks to its compact size and decent fuel economy for the time, produced in massive numbers, the SX V6 was a true workhorse in sedans and family haulers. Not flashy, but dependable.

In the early ’80s, carbureted versions were the norm, but eventually Ford embraced the FI on the platform, improving drivability and emissions over time. The SX V6 evolved. It started out in a 3.8L engine, which is 232 cubic inches, with a bore of 3.81 inches and a stroke of 3.39 inches. Later, it increased the stroke to 3.74 inches to create the 4.2L version, which is 256 cubic inches, which powered F-150s from ’97 to 2007. There was also a 3.9L version, which is 237 cubic inches, achieved by using a 3.4-inch stroke, which appeared in vehicles like the Ford Freestar and Mercury Monterey, but never made its way to trucks. In addition to its displacement variations, the SX V6 stuck under with updates to keep up with changing technology and regulations. Early versions ran on carburetors, as I said, but Ford introduced EFI in the 1980s and later sequential port injection, or SPI. These upgrades brought more precise fuel delivery, improving drivability, efficiency, and emissions. These advancements played a big role in keeping the Essex relevant well into the ’90s, even as competition increased.

The production SX is an iron block, iron-headed V6. Deck height for the SX V6 reportedly measures approximately 8.9 inches, though it’s a hard stat to nail down with any confidence. Compression ratios range from about 8.0 to 1 to 9.0 to 1, depending on the year and application. Perfect for regular pump gas. Horsepower in early configurations wasn’t exactly eye-popping, I think roughly 110 to 120 horsepower in its early days, though EFI models and supercharged variants pushed that number significantly higher later on. Torque usually landed in the low to mid-200 pound range, which is respectable for a V6 in that era. The firing order for the SX V6 is typically 1-4-2-5-3-6. Oil capacity runs about 4.5 to 5 quarts, and good old 10W30 or 10W40 is often recommended, though as always, check the specs for your particular year. Thanks to its relatively lightweight build compared to the small block V8, it’s a tempting choice for compact projects.

Now, nobody’s geeking out over the finer details like they do with classic Ford V8s, but the SX V6 is a short, stout little workhorse. For practicality, not racing glory. Pop the hood on a Ford of the right era, and if you see a compact V6 with iron heads, a front-mounted distributor (at least on older carbureted models), and the distinctive Ford blue or black engine paint, depending on the year, chances are you’re looking at an Essex. But your best bet for identifying it, as usual, is to check the engine stampings and casting numbers. The intake manifold and valve cover shape can also give it away. Short, wide valve covers and a modest intake practically scream SX.

As I already mentioned, the SX V6 primarily powered cars like the Ford LTD, Mustang, and Thunderbird. Mercury counterparts shared love too. For years, it was Ford’s go-to V6 for front-engine, rear-drive sedans and coupes, especially as emission standards tightened and the V8 dominance began to wane. In its later years, it even found a home under the hood of front-wheel-drive platforms like the Taurus and minivans like the Windstar, those versions sporting improved tech. Now, as for common issues? Overheating? Yep, that wasn’t unheard of, especially in certain setups. Head gasket failures were a notorious sore spot in some years, especially in the ’90s. Front-wheel-drive variants, timing cover leaks, worn-out timing chains, and intake manifold gasket leaks also popped up occasionally. Regular maintenance helps, but if you’re eyeing a used Essex, you’ll want to give it a solid once-over.

When it comes to transmissions behind the SX V6 in rear-wheel-drive configurations, Ford initially paired it with automatics like the C5 and later the AOD for models like certain Fox body Mustangs and Thunderbirds. As the platform evolved, newer automatic options like the AOD and 4R70W showed up in later applications, particularly in the ’90s Mustangs and Thunderbirds. They still carried the SX V6 for manual fans. The SX V6 occasionally got the T5 5-speed in Fox body and SN95 Mustangs, and the Thunderbird Super Coupe famously offered the M5R2 5-speed manual. These factory pairings gave you a menu of bolt-up options, no fabrication needed, as long as you’re sourcing from SX V6-equipped donor cars. However, it’s worth noting that the SX V6 uses a unique bell housing pattern different from the classic small block Ford V8. In other words, you just can’t grab a transmission meant for a 302 or a 351 and expect it to bolt on without an adapter. If you’re doing a swap or restoration, your best bet is to find a transmission originally designed for the Essex. Now, to make matters worse, the SX bell housing pattern is different between front-wheel-drive and rear-wheel-drive versions, so you need to keep that in mind if you’re looking to bolt one up.

Replacement parts? No problem. Gaskets, filters, belts, hoses are all easy to find. But don’t expect a bustling SX speed shop with high-lift cams or tricked-out cylinder heads. If you’re willing to dig, you might find some enthusiasts adapting Thunderbird Super Coupe parts, or you could get brave and try forced induction. For most builders, though, the SX V6 is a leave-it-stock and hope-for-good-gas-mileage engine. We’ll talk more about potential performance tweaks a little bit later. So the SX V6, in a nutshell, steady, reliable, but never spectacular—a, shall we say, practical chapter in Ford’s history. It served faithfully during a challenging time, never aiming to wow gearheads at the drag strip. If you’re building a light, fuel-efficient rig or just want something quirky to chat about at the next car show, it might be worth considering. Otherwise, it’s hard to argue against a more common and better-supported engine like the 302 or even the 289. But there’s a certain charm in breathing new life into a forgotten motor.

Now on to today’s other star player, the 255 V8. Ford introduced the 255 as part of its effort to downsize the Windsor engine family in the late 1970s, rolling into the early ’80s. The goal was to create a smaller, more efficient V8 in an era when fuel economy and emissions were top priorities. The 255 saw action from around 1980 to ’82 with a mix of Ford and Mercury full-size cars, and yes, it even found its way into some early Bullnose F-series trucks. But it never quite caught on. Most folks saw it as a shadow of the venerable 302. Production numbers were low, and the engine quietly faded into obscurity as Ford focused on more promising configurations. The 255 might just be the definition of “seemed like a good idea at the time.” These days, it’s more of a curiosity than anything else. Still, if you’re working on a factory-correct restoration of a 1980-82 F100 or a full-size car from that era, the 255 could be on your radar. It’s a piece of the puzzle; it helps us understand Ford’s strategy at the time: keep that V8 cache alive while also avoiding gas guzzling. And the results? Let’s just say they were mixed.

The 255 V8 came from a proud lineage of small block Ford engines, starting with the 221 and 260 in the early ’60s. These compact V8s were trailblazers in their day, setting the stage for the Windsor family, which included legends like the 302 and eventually the ill-fated 255. While the 221 and 260 succeeded by striking a balance between power and efficiency, the 255 faced an uphill battle two decades later, hampered by tougher emissions and fuel economy mandates. Its displacement, about 255 cubic inches or 4.2L, comes from a reduced bore compared to the 302. The deck height is the same as a 302 at 8.2 inches, so what you’ve got is essentially a 302 block with smaller internals and restrictive heads. Compression ratios were low in the 8.0 to 1 to 8.3 to 1 range. Horsepower hovered around 115 to 120 horsepower, and torque landed in the 190 to 200 lb-ft neighborhood. Not exactly numbers to get your heart racing. The block and heads are cast iron, sturdy enough, but those tiny valves—1.64 inches intake and 1.38 inches exhaust—choke airflow like it owes them money. The firing order is the same as other Windsor V8s, and oil capacity is around 5 quarts. The recommended grade, similar to other small block Fords, tends to be 30 or 40.

Just like the SX, it’s compact and lightweight for a V8, but that’s pretty much its only bragging right in the performance department. At first glance, the 255 looks a lot like a 302, which can even trip up seasoned gearheads. To be sure, you need to check casting numbers and measure bore and stroke. The heads are a giveaway; those small valve sizes are a dead ringer. And if you’re looking at a 1980 to ’82 Ford or Mercury with a V8 that feels suspiciously underpowered, it’s probably a 255. The 255 showed up in certain Fox body platforms, full-size Fords like the LTD and Crown Victoria predecessors, and crucially, it made an appearance in some early Bullnose F100 trucks. It was never widely celebrated, so it didn’t hang around very long. By the mid-’80s, Ford had moved on to better-performing, more reliable engines. So let’s call it like it is: the 255 is an underachiever designed for fuel economy and emissions compliance. It’s not speed. Acceleration is modest at best. It can cruise around town and handle daily driving, but don’t expect to win any drag races. The engine’s real job is being a placeholder, just something to fill the bay while Ford worked on better ideas. Adequate for its time, but it won’t exactly set your hair on fire.

Maintenance-wise, nothing special here—just your usual low-V8 stuff: timing chain wear, carb tuning headaches, and the occasional oil leak from the valve covers or oil pan. The main gripe is its lackluster performance. With routine maintenance, it runs smoothly, but don’t expect to find any hidden power without serious mods. Unlike the SX V6, the 255 shares the classic small block Ford bell housing pattern that’s been around since the 1960s. This means it works with a wide range of transmissions built for engines like the 289, 302, and 351. From the factory, the 255, during its short production window, was most often paired with automatic transmissions in full-size Ford and Mercury models and early Bullnose trucks. You typically find a C4 or its successor, the C5, bolted behind it. The C4 and C5 were three-speed automatics, Ford’s warhorse back then—simple and reliable. By 1980, Ford also introduced the AOD, which is automatic overdrive, in some applications. Certain full-size cars running the 255 used the AOD to squeeze out a few more miles per gallon on the highway. And while rare, some Fox body cars with a 255 also offered the SROD, which is single rail overdrive four-speed manual transmission. Thanks to the interchangeability of small block Ford bell housing patterns, it’s not out of the question to find one in the wild.

The real advantage here is that if you decide to swap or upgrade from the 255, or even just want a different transmission option, the classic small block Ford bolt pattern gives you a buffet of choices: T5 five-speeds, AOD, AOD 4R70W automatics, Tremec five or six speeds—all potential candidates with the right combination of flywheel, clutch if you’re going manual, and linkage. This makes transmission selection for the 255-powered project far more flexible than what you’d encounter with the SX V6. But if the SX was slim on performance parts, the 255 is downright bare. Sure, some 302 parts fit, but the tiny valves and low compression ratio mean you’re starting from a weaker baseline. You could swap heads, intake manifolds, and exhaust components from a 302, but by the time you do that, you might as well have started with a 302 and saved yourself the hassle. Basic tweaks and maybe a slightly better intake or exhaust are all you’re likely to bother with unless you’re just dead set on making a point.

So let’s say you’re that special kind of gearhead who loves a challenge. Maybe you don’t care that your engine isn’t exactly a darling in the performance community. Maybe you want to roll into a car show, pop the hood, and make people say, “Wait, what is that?” If that’s the case, the SX V6 or the 255 V8 could provide a unique canvas for your next build. Just know what you’re getting into. For the SX V6, there’s a precedent for forced induction—the Thunderbird Super Coupe and a supercharged variant of this engine. With some scavenging and creativity, you could replicate or adapt those components to build a snappy V6, focusing more on torque and uniqueness than sheer horsepower. Think of a lightweight Fox body Mustang with a supercharged SX V6, or even an oddball swap into a Ranger. Sure, it’ll need custom fabrication, and yes, tracking down performance parts will be an exercise in hair-pulling, but if you succeed, you’ll have a story worth telling at every meet and greet. The SX’s lighter weight could also improve handling in smaller vehicles. Imagine a nimble autocross machine that stands out precisely because it’s not running the usual small block V8.

So the 255 V8, if you’re really committed, you could improve it with better flowing 302 heads, a mild performance cam, and freer breathing intake and exhaust. This could transform a wheezy old economy motor into something at least respectable. If you’re building a period-correct sleeper, stuffing it into a classic sedan or a vintage import to turn heads, it might just have enough charm to make sense. Or consider a small, all-lightweight roadster that could benefit from a compact V8. The 255 could be a fun project in a build where every pound matters, and all you’re after is that smooth V8 rumble, not huge horsepower. Are these mainstream performance choices? Absolutely not. You’ll work harder, spend more, and probably get less performance than you would with a common engine like a 302, 351, or even a turbocharged 2.3L four-cylinder. But that’s not the point. The point is that going off the beaten path has its own reward. If you’re all about uniqueness and love a good challenge, the SX V6 or the 255 could be the ultimate conversation starter and a test of your engineering chops.

In the grand tapestry of Ford engine history, the SX V6 and the 255 V8 are undoubtedly footnotes. They were products of their time, the late ’70s and early ’80s, when the rules of the game were changing faster than a pit crew at Daytona. Fuel economy and emissions compliance were the new commandments, and Ford, like everyone else, had to figure out how to satisfy Uncle Sam without boring the driving public to death. Though boring might still be fair. So the next time someone asks you about Ford’s engine lineup for the Bullnose era, you can say, “Sure, everyone knows the 302 and 351, but have you heard about the SX V6 and the 255 V8?” And just like that, you have something to talk about over a cold beverage, leaning on a fender, enjoying the smell of old oil in a garage. It’s shop talk fodder, a piece of history worth remembering, even if it’s just for the chuckle.

So there you go, guys. That’s everything that I know about the Ford SX V6 and the 255 V8. I hope you learned something today. I learned a bunch about these engines doing this video; hope you did too. Uh, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop me a comment below. I appreciate that. And as always, I really appreciate you guys for being here. Thanks again for watching, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Oh hello! The Ford 302 V8, or as many folks know it, the 5 Miler, is nothing short of legendary in the engine world. It first showed up in the late 1960s and has since powered everything from classic Mustangs to the tough Bullnose Ford trucks. Known for its reliability, solid performance, and the vast aftermarket support it enjoys, the 302 is a favorite among engine builders and car enthusiasts alike. Whether you’re restoring an old Ford or trying to squeeze a bit more horsepower out of your Bullnose, getting to know the 302 inside and out is an important part of servicing it or swapping it in. In this guide, I’ll walk you through its history, specs, performance, and some of the most popular mods. By the end, you’ll understand why this engine has earned such a loyal following.

The Ford 302 V8 made its debut in 1968, bridging the gap between Ford’s smaller 289 and larger 351 Windsor engines. But the 302 certainly wasn’t just a one-trick pony; it quickly became a go-to for a wide range of Ford vehicles over the decades, from the Ford Galaxy to, of course, the Mustang, to the F-series, Bronco, and Explorer. I’ve created this chart which shows exactly where this engine found a home, listing every vehicle, the years it was used, and whether it was a roller block or not. This way, you can know where to go if you want to pull it from a yard or classified post like Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist.

Starting in 1969, the 302 was a popular choice for performance models like the Mustang. But as emission regulations tightened in the 1970s, the engine had to adapt, often at the cost of power. In the 1980s, Ford revitalized the 302 with a high output, or HO version, starting in the Mustang GT. This version featured upgrades like a roller camshaft and higher compression, boosting performance significantly. By 1986, the switch to electronic fuel injection, or EFI, marked a new era of efficiency and reliability. The 1990s brought further enhancements with the introduction of the GT40 heads, particularly in the Ford Explorer. These heads offered improved airflow, making the 302 even more popular among performance enthusiasts. Even after its official retirement in 2001, the 302’s legacy lives on in countless classic cars and trucks.

Over the years, the 302 saw several important updates, including changes to the valve train and rear main seal. This chart I put together takes a closer look at how these updates rolled out year by year, so you can get an idea of which type of engine you might find in a vehicle of that year. The Ford 302 is a compact, lightweight V8 that’s ideal for restoration projects and high-performance builds. Let’s go over the nuts and bolts. First off, the 302 is a 90° overhead valve train V8 with a displacement of, guess it, 302 cubic inches, or 5.0 L. It’s got a 4-inch bore and a 3-inch stroke, which gives it that well-balanced performance. Depending on the year, the compression ratio ranges from 8.0 to 1 to 9.5 to 1. Now, despite being a V8, the 302 is relatively light; it weighs around 460 to 475 lbs with iron heads and intake. The engine block is made of cast iron, which adds durability. Most 302s have a cast iron crankshaft too, though some high-performance models came with Ford steel crankshafts, which are stronger and more durable.

When it comes to firing order, the early 302s were set up with 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, but in 1982, when Ford introduced the high output, or HO version, they switched it up to 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 for better performance. Another key update happened at the end of 1982, transitioning into the 1983 model year, where Ford moved from a two-piece rear main seal to a one-piece design. This change really improved reliability by cutting down those pesky oil leaks that were common with the older setup. It’s a big deal if you’re rebuilding or sourcing parts for these engines.

Now let’s talk power. Early 302s put out anywhere between 140 and 200 horsepower, depending on the year and model. Though with the HO version of the 1980s, you can see it up to 225 horsepower, with torque ranging from around 240 to 300 lb-ft. Size-wise, the 302 measures about 27 inches long, 29 inches wide, and 27 inches high. These compact dimensions made it a popular choice for a variety of vehicles, from sports cars to trucks. That’s one of the reasons why the 302 is such a great option for swapping into classic vehicles. The 302 holds about 5 quarts of oil, including the filter, and it typically runs best with SAE 10W-30 oil, depending on your climate and specific needs.

The Ford 302 is known for packing a solid punch in a relatively small package. One of its biggest strengths is its broad power band, delivering torque early and keeping it across a wide range of RPMs. This translates to good acceleration and towing capability, especially in heavier vehicles like trucks. What really makes the 302 shine, though, is its tuning potential. With a massive aftermarket, you can easily upgrade this engine to meet almost any performance goal, whether you want a streetable 350 horsepower build or a high-revving 500-plus horsepower beast. The 302 can deliver with the right modifications.

Now, when working on a classic Ford project, you might encounter various small block V8 engines such as the 302, 351 Windsor, 289, and 260. Although they share a common lineage, each engine has its own strengths. The 302, however, stands out for its versatility and balance of power and size. The 302’s 302 cubic inches of displacement strike a balance between the smaller 289 and 260 engines and the larger 351 Windsor. With the right parts, the 302 can safely handle up to around 450 to 500 horsepower before risking damage to the stock block. Pushing beyond this range increases the risk of cracking or other failures, making the 302 ideal for moderate to high-performance builds where durability is key.

On the other hand, the 351 Windsor, with its larger displacement, offers greater torque and power potential right off the gate. It’s a better choice for those seeking maximum horsepower with fewer modifications, as it can handle more power without compromising reliability. The smaller 289 and 260 engines are lighter and provide a good fit for certain builds, but they don’t offer the same power potential as the 302 or 351 Windsor. Identifying these engines is essential, especially when sourcing parts. The 302 and 289 are close in size, but the 289 typically has smaller valve heads and a different firing order, except for the HO. The 351 Windsor is easily distinguishable by its taller deck height, which makes it physically larger. This increased height raises the intake manifold and creates a wider gap between the cylinder heads. Additionally, the distributor on the 351 Windsor sits higher due to the deck height. On the 302, this makes the distributor mount almost flush at the top of the block. Both the 351 Windsor and the HO version of the 302 share the same firing order, 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.

Among these small block V8s, the 302 is probably the best blend of performance, size, and aftermarket support. It’s light enough to improve handling in smaller vehicles like Mustangs, yet strong enough to deliver reliable power in trucks and muscle cars. Its popularity ensures a wide range of available parts and tuning expertise, making the 302 a common choice for enthusiasts. By understanding these differences, you can select the engine that best matches your project performance goals and needs. Like me, I’m choosing 351 because, you know, there’s no replacement for displacement.

The Ford 302 is a tough engine, but like any machine, it has its quirks. Keeping an eye out for a few common issues can save you a lot of trouble down the road. One thing you want to watch out for is oil leaks. These are pretty common, especially around the valve covers, rear main seal, and oil pan gasket. Regular checks and replacing gaskets when needed can help keep these leaks in check. And if you rebuild a worn engine, it’s worth investing in high-quality gaskets to prevent future problems. Another thing to keep an eye on is the timing chain. Over time, these can stretch, which can lead to poor performance or even cause engine damage. Upgrading to a double roller timing chain during a rebuild is a solid move; it improves your reliability and can give you some peace of mind.

Overheating is another issue that some 302s struggle with, particularly in older vehicles where the radiator or water pump might be past its prime. Upgrading to an aluminum radiator and a high-flow water pump can make a big difference in keeping your engine cool, even when you’re pushing it hard. And let’s not forget about the ignition system. Early 302s use points ignition systems, which can become unreliable as they age. Switching to an electronic ignition system, like Ford DuraSpark or an aftermarket setup, is a great way to boost reliability and make sure your engine fires up every time. By tackling these common issues early, it’ll keep your Ford 302 running strong and avoid those annoying surprises that can pop up when you least expect them.

As I’ve said before, the Ford 302 Windsor is a favorite among engine builders because of its versatility and the wide range of aftermarket parts available. Whether you’re restoring a classic or pushing the limits with a high-performance build, the 302 offers plenty of ways to get more power. One popular upgrade is installing a stroker kit, which increases the engine’s displacement to 347 cubic inches. This involves lengthening the piston stroke, allowing more air and fuel into the engine. With the right parts and professional machining, a 347 stroker can easily push out over 400 horsepower, making it a popular option for those looking to significantly boost performance.

Another key area to consider is the cylinder heads. The stock heads, especially on early 302 models, tend to be restricted, limiting airflow and consequently power. Upgraded aftermarket aluminum heads from brands like Edelbrock, AFR, or Trick Flow can make a huge difference, adding anywhere from 50 to 100 horsepower. Pair those heads with a performance camshaft and intake manifold, and you’ll see even greater gains. Speaking of camshafts, cams play a critical role in how your engine breathes and where it makes power. Later 302s, particularly the HO versions, came with roller camshafts, which are more efficient and can support more aggressive cam profiles. A well-chosen camshaft might add 20 to 40 horsepower on its own, and when combined with other upgrades like better heads and an intake, the results can be pretty impressive.

Now let’s talk about induction. Whether you stick with a carburetor or go for fuel injection, how you manage air and fuel is crucial. The 302 works well with a variety of setups, from a mild 600 CFM four-barrel carb for street use to more aggressive configurations for racing. Upgrading the intake manifold improves airflow, especially when matched with a larger carburetor. If you’re looking for better fuel economy, reliability, and drivability, converting to electronic fuel injection is a solid move. EFI tuning, in particular, can unlock significant gains, especially when paired with other mods like a performance camshaft. And of course, you can’t forget about the exhaust system. A high-flow setup is essential for reducing back pressure and letting the engine breathe freely. Long tube headers usually offer the best performance gains, especially in the mid to high RPM range, though they can be trickier to fit in some vehicles. Shorty headers are easier to install and still provide good improvements over stock manifolds. And if you really want to optimize performance, consider upgrading to a true dual exhaust system with an X-pipe or H-pipe, which helps balance exhaust pulses and reduces back pressure even further.

Finally, all the upgrades in the world won’t reach their full potential without proper tuning. A dyno tune ensures that your air-fuel mixture, ignition timing, and other parameters are dialed in just right for maximum performance. Whether you’re aiming for a street-friendly setup with good drivability and fuel efficiency or a track-focused build where power and responsiveness are everything, getting your 302 tuned properly can make all the difference.

The 302’s compact size and lightweight make it a solid choice for all sorts of engine swaps. It’s a favorite for Fox body Mustangs, where it drops in easily, and there’s a ton of parts and tuning out there to make the process smooth. That’s a big plus if you’re looking to boost performance without too much hassle. But the 302 isn’t just for Mustangs; it’s also a great fit for older Fords like the Falcon or Fairlane, especially if you’re looking to replace a smaller or underpowered engine. The swap gives these classics a real kick without straying too far from what they originally were. If you’re building a hot rod or something custom, the 302’s size really works in your favor. It can squeeze into tight spots where a bigger engine might be a pain, letting you focus more on performance instead of wrestling with fitment issues.

Now, if you’re planning a swap, there are a few things to keep in mind. First off, motor mounts. Depending on your vehicle, you might need custom mounts to get everything lined up right. You’ll also need to check oil pan clearance; the 302’s pan has to clear the crossmember, so you might end up needing a different sump setup depending on what you’re working with. And don’t forget about the transmission. The 302 works with a lot of Ford transmissions, but you’ll need to make sure the bell housing, clutch, and shifter line up properly with your vehicle setup. Get that sorted, and the 302 will give you plenty of reliable power.

Now when it comes to pairing the 302 with the transmission, there are no shortage of options. Over the years, the 302 has been matched with a variety of both manual and automatic transmissions, so you’ve got plenty to choose from depending on your build and driving style. If you’re into manual transmissions, one of the older classics is the Ford Toploader four-speed. It’s known for its durability and smooth shifts, making it a solid choice for muscle cars and some trucks between the ’60s and ’70s. Another popular option is the T5 five-speed manual, which you find in Mustangs from 1983 to 1995. The T5 adds an overdrive gear, which is great if you’re looking to balance performance with a bit of fuel efficiency. For those pushing higher horsepower, the Tremec TKO five-speed is a top aftermarket choice that can handle a lot of torque. Then there’s the Borg Warner T18 and T19 four speeds. These are more rugged, often found in trucks and off-road vehicles where their toughness really shines. The NP435 is another truck-oriented option, well-known for its low first gear and reliability, especially in heavier-duty setups. In the later years, the ZF S542 and S547 five-speeds show up in Ford trucks from the late ’80s through the ’90s. These transmissions are built to handle serious torque, making them ideal for heavy-duty applications. And for a lighter-duty setup, you’ve got the Mazda M5OD five-speed manual overdrive, which is common in F-150s, Rangers, and Explorers, though it’s not ideal if you’re planning to push a lot of torque without some modifications.

On the automatic side, the Ford C4 three-speed is a well-known option, especially in lighter cars and trucks from the ’60s through the early ’80s. It’s reliable for street builds and light performance setups. If you need something stronger, the Ford C6 three-speed is a heavy-duty transmission. It’s often paired with the 302 in trucks and larger vehicles, known for its ability to handle higher torque. In the mid-1980s, Ford introduced the AOD four-speed automatic with overdrive. This one is a good pick if you’re looking to improve fuel efficiency at highway speeds, but you might need some modifications to fit it into an older 302 block. Whether you’re aiming for a classic build, a high-performance setup, or something in between, there is a transmission that’ll work well with your 302.

Now, I know I sound like a broken record, but it bears repeating: one of the biggest advantages of the Ford 302 is the sheer amount of aftermarket support it has. Because this engine is so popular, parts are easy to find and generally affordable, which makes it one of the most accessible V8s to build or modify. If you’re looking to replace an existing 302 or start a new build, you’ve got plenty of options. Rebuilt engines are all over the place, often with warranties included. These are usually built to stock specs but can come with mild upgrades for better performance and reliability. Then there are crate engines, which might be pricier but are ready to install right out of the box. Companies like Ford Performance offer everything from stock replacements to high-performance builds, so you can pretty much pick the level of power you want. And when it comes to parts, the aftermarket for the 302 is huge. Brands like Edelbrock, Trick Flow, AFR, and Holley offer everything from cylinder heads to intake manifolds, and you can even get complete top-end kits. Whether you’re just looking for a slight bump in power or planning a full-blown race build, the parts are out there, and you don’t have to wait long to get them. And cost-wise, the 302 is one of the most affordable V8s to work on. The wide availability of parts keeps prices down, and the performance per dollar is hard to beat. In short, if you’re looking to build or restore a classic V8, the Ford 302 is a solid choice. With a combination of affordability, performance potential, and ease of finding parts, it’s no wonder this engine remains a favorite among enthusiasts.

The 302 made a huge impact on the automotive world, quickly becoming a cornerstone of Ford’s performance lineup. Its role in the Mustang, especially in models like the Boss 302 and Mustang GT, helped define the muscle car era. And when it powered the Fox body Mustang through the ’80s and ’90s, it stayed at the forefront of American performance culture, showing just how easily this engine could be modified for more power. And even though the 302 officially retired in 2001, it’s far from forgotten. It’s still a favorite among builders, racers, and restorers, thanks to its perfect balance of size, weight, and power. You’ll find it in everything from classic resto mods to drag racers. The 302 wasn’t just a hit in the Mustang, though; it powered some of Ford’s most iconic vehicles, like the F-series trucks. Each role in these bestsellers helped cement the 302’s reputation as a versatile, dependable engine. In short, the Ford 302 isn’t just an engine; it’s a legend. With over 50 years of history behind it, the 302 has proven itself time and again, whether on the street, the track, or off-road. Whether you’re building a street cruiser, a drag racer, or restoring a classic truck, the 302 gives you a solid foundation with endless possibilities. And with all the parts and support still available today, there’s never been a better time to build your perfect 302.

Well, that’s it, guys! Everything I know, or pretend to know, about the Ford 302 5.0 L engine. You know, these things are everywhere. Ford made at least 10 million; some estimates put it as high as 20 million units of these over their entire production run. So if you want, go get you one. If you’re looking for which vehicles they came in, so you know how to pull one, make sure you reference the chart that I put earlier in the video. That’ll tell you all the vehicles and the years that you can find them in. So I don’t know what else to say that hasn’t already been said about this amazing engine, other than maybe legendary, but I’ve said that a few times: legendary. Guys, if you like this kind of content, if you found something interesting in this video, if you learned something new, give me a like, give me a subscribe. It really helps me out and lets me know that this is the kind of content that you guys want to see so I can make more of it. If you really want to support the channel, head over to my merch store. You get some really cool stuff. I made some hats, t-shirts, bumper stickers, and stickers just for the 302 and for this video. So if you guys want to show your support for the channel or you want to show your love for the legendary Ford 302 5.0 L engine, go grab you some stuff. It’s really cool. So if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. The 351 Windsor Ford small block engine is one of the most venerable engines that Ford Motor Company has ever produced. Today on Bullnose Garage, I’d like to introduce you to mine and talk a little bit about this engine and why I chose it for my build.

So let’s start this video off right by introducing you to the donor. The donor was originally a 1994 F-150 with an E4OD automatic transmission, two-wheel drive, and of course, the 351 Windsor. What follows is most of the research I’ve done on the 351 Windsor in preparation for swapping it into my truck. Keep in mind that I gathered almost all of this information from places on the internet, and none of it is personal experience because I don’t have any. That said, I’ve tried very hard to fact check and verify my information as best I can. I hope that this information, put together in one place, is useful for anyone looking for more details or thinking about swapping or building this small block Ford engine.

So what is a 351 Windsor? The 351 Windsor, or 351W for short, is the largest of the Ford small block engine family. Ford Motor Company built them between 1969 and 1996. It’s a 90-degree V8 with an overhead valve train. The 351 corresponds to the number of cubic inches displaced by the stroke of all eight cylinders during normal operation. It’s also commonly referred to as the 5.8 liter for the same reason. The name Windsor comes from where the engine was produced in Ford’s Windsor, Ontario casting plant. Similar in size and shape to the very common 302, the 351 is a taller block. This allows for more piston travel in the cylinder, increasing the cubic inches to accommodate the increased displacement and increased power. The 351 block castings are beefier in almost every respect.

The Windsor is one of three engines offered by Ford in the 351 displacement. There was also the 351 Cleveland and the 351M, often called the modified. The Windsor engine is by far the most common and had the highest production numbers. Ford produced about 8.6 million units at the Windsor plant. It also tends to be the easiest to find aftermarket parts for due to its sharing many parts with a 302 small block.

So let’s go over some stats and measurements. The 351 Windsor has a displacement of 351 cubic inches, or 5.8 liters. The stock stroke of the engine is 3.5 inches, and the stock cylinder bore is 4 inches. It has a distinct firing order from the other Ford small blocks: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 versus 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. Cast out of iron, the bare block weighs in at between 150 and 200 pounds, depending on the year. Blocks older than 1974 are heftier by 25 to 30 pounds due to having more metal in the casting. Prior to 1971, the deck height reached 9.48 inches, and after ’71, it changed to 9.503 inches. Something to make note of if you’re rebuilding one of these engines, since the deck height will affect the compression ratio and the valve piston head clearance.

The stock engine uses two bolts to secure the main bearing cap to the saddle, known as two-bolt mains. Stock, the compression ratio was around 11 to 1 in 1969. Emissions restrictions caused the ratio to move as low as 8.8 to 1 in later years. Early 351W engines produced a maximum of 300 horsepower and found their way into Mustangs, Galaxies, Cougars, Country Squires, station wagons, Fairlanes, and Torinos. Later years were also installed into trucks, vans, and marine applications. Later engines had lower horsepower numbers and higher torque numbers as a result of vehicle requirements and emissions.

So the 351 Windsor’s got an interesting history. Ford began casting the Windsor in 1969 and produced them up until 1996. Prior to ’75, blocks were cast using green sand molds and pneumatic packers or vacuum pressure. These methods worked well but caused some issues with mold core shifting. This meant that Ford required more material in the block to meet minimum specifications. After ’74, Ford used better molding techniques, eliminating the need for the extra material. While it’s true that newer blocks are weaker than older blocks because of this material deficit, 351 blocks are still the strongest small block available and should be able to handle any streetable horsepower numbers. Still, for this reason, builders sometimes covet 351 Windsor blocks from ’69 to ’74 if they’re looking for very high horsepower torque members.

In 1971, Ford extended the deck height from 9.48 inches to 9.503 inches to lower the compression ratio. In ’74, they added a boss in the right front of the engine for an air injection pump. Also in ’74, the oil dipstick moved from the timing case to under the left cylinder bank. Until ’76, the block used 16 bolt holes for the intake manifold, but Ford changed it to 12 bolts from ’77 onward. It should be noted that the 351 has larger head bolt holes than the 302. This means that the same heads will fit, but a 302 head will need to be drilled out to accommodate this if it’s being used on 351. A popular example of this is the GT40 head used on higher performance 302 engines being swapped into a 351 for higher flow numbers.

In 1983, Ford modified the rear main seal from the old two-piece design to a more modern one-piece rear main seal. Very late in the engine’s production, in 1994, the design changed again to accommodate roller lifters and camshafts rather than flat tappet lifters and camshafts. This change, only available in the final two years of production, makes these blocks highly sought after. Often these are just called F4 blocks due to the casting number or simply referred to as roller blocks.

So here’s a quick chart that I put together so that I could see exactly what gears which blocks had which features. That way, when I’m looking to go pull a Windsor out of a junkyard or another vehicle, I know exactly what years to look for for the features that I want. The second chart is one that I made to reference which vehicles these blocks go in. That way, when I’m looking on Facebook or Craigslist or even at a junkyard, I know what kind of a block that I’m going to get out of which vehicle in which year.

Ultimately, the best way to identify a 351 Windsor block is by using the Ford casting number. We can break down the beginning of Ford’s casting numbers into decade, year, vehicle or vehicle type, and engineering division. A casting that starts with C90E was built in 1979 because the C signifies the ’70s, and the 9 is for the last year of that decade. The 0 signifies that it was built for a Torino, and the E stands for engine. Castings that start with D are built in the ’70s, E in the ’80s, and F in the ’90s. My block is an F4TE, which means it’s a 1994 truck engine block. As I said before, F4 blocks are known as the roller blocks. That casting identifies them as having been built after 1994 when Ford switched to roller cam capable blocks. Note that Ford didn’t install roller cams in all roller blocks from the factory; many still utilize the old style flat tappet cams even though they are roller capable.

Ford produced two or three, depending on who you ask, different 351 engines during the same time period: the 351 Windsor and the 351 Cleveland. Every now and then, you’ll also hear about the 351M, also called modified, or might even hear about the 351 HO, or high output. What gives with all these different motors with the same displacement? Well, the Cleveland and the modified are both based on the same engine, which is entirely different from the Windsor. They called it Cleveland because Ford cast them in their Cleveland, Ohio plant. The Cleveland is part of the 335 big block engine family and was designed for more performance with better flowing heads and a stronger crank. Physical differences include a recessed timing chain and 8-bolt valve covers versus the Windsor’s 6-bolt covers. The bolt covers are the easiest way to tell if you’re looking at a Windsor or a Cleveland.

The 351M is closer to the Cleveland than the Windsor but is basically a de-stroke version of the big block 400, a different block altogether with a taller deck height than either the Windsor or the Cleveland at 10.297. The M also shares a bell housing pattern with other members of the 335 big block engine family, while the Windsor and the Cleveland both use a small block bell housing pattern. The 351 HO is just a Windsor engine with higher performance parts. It came with a four-barrel carburetor and a larger cam. Ford put HO engines in some trucks in the mid-’80s.

The Ford 302, or 5.0 liter small block, is in the same family as the 351, and it can often be hard to distinguish the two. The 351 has a taller deck height and subsequently longer stroke, which accounts for the difference in displacement. The 351 is also a heavier casting with more material, making it a stronger block overall. The crank and rod journals are also larger in the 351, adding to crankshaft durability. Many of the parts for a 302 are interchangeable to the 351. This includes heads, cam, lifters, water pump, engine mounts, timing chain, timing cover, and many other parts. As stated before, it should be noted that 302 heads have smaller bolt holes, so they’ll only fit a 351 if the holes are drilled out. Earlier versions of the 351, until ’76, incorporated heads with more bolt holes and larger intake ports than the 302, though the exhaust ports always remain the same size. The bell housing bolts to both engines are also the same. This means that a transmission that pulls up to a 302 will also bolt up to a 351. The firing order between the two engines is different, as is the oil pan intake due to the deck height harmonic balancer, except pre-’81 302s which share the internal balance of 351W and distributor.

There are several ways to tell the difference between a 351 and a 302 by visual inspection. The easiest I found is to look at the distributor mount height. The mount will be near flush to the top of the block on a 302, while the 351 has the distributor mount sunk below the top of the block by around an inch.

So does the Windsor make a good high-performance engine? Well, 351 Windsor blocks upgrade easily. A huge number of aftermarket parts exist for both the 351 and the 302. Popular upgrades are the heads since the stock 351 heads are mediocre at best, and other standard upgrade parts like the intake, cam, headers, and fuel delivery system. While the latest generation of 351 Windsors typically generated about 180 to 220 horsepower from the factory, adding a new set of heads, a larger cam, and some other aftermarket parts can get a Windsor with a stock stroke to around 350 to 400 horsepower easily. Stroking the engine by changing the crank and piston rods can increase the displacement to 383, 393, 408, 418, or 427. Doing so makes horsepower numbers as high as 500 to 600 easily attainable. Even higher numbers are possible with the correct aftermarket parts or power adders. The maximum horsepower attainable through a stock 351 Windsor is a matter of debate. Most agree that 500 to 600 is easily and safely attainable without risking damage to even the later standard strength blocks. Earlier high-strength blocks regularly reach 800 to 1000 horsepower without damage. When it comes to cracking an engine block, though, often it’s not the horsepower numbers but the sturdiness and quality of the parts and build that’s most important.

So can a junkyard 351W make a good performance engine? Well, in my opinion, the junkyard OEM block is a fine base to use for a 351 Windsor build, provided you’re not planning on putting out more than 600 horsepower and redlining RPMs all the time. Much more than that wouldn’t be streetable anyway. If you really want to race the block and send massive amounts of power through it, then it might be worth your time to hunt down a pre-’74 block for the higher strength. But there’s always the option of purchasing an aftermarket block. Purchasing an aftermarket 351 block can help you attain higher numbers without the worry of block failure. 1200 plus horsepower is not uncommon for an aftermarket 351 Windsor. Several reputable companies make aftermarket 351 blocks.

So why did I choose the 351? Well, my ’85 Bullnose houses a 306 from the factory, but a small block engine option existed for my truck. Because of this, I know the small block form factor will fit without an issue, unlike a big one. I wanted an engine that would bolt right into my Bullnose just to keep things easier for my first swap. The 306 shares the same bell housing bolt pattern as the small block engines as well, so I have the option to keep my transmission. Engine mounting points between the 300 and small blocks are also similar, with only the need to pull the mounts and purchase from the donor and bolt them into the Bullnose. I chose the 351 over the 302 because there’s no replacement for displacement. I’ve also read that the 302 is far easier to crack when running high horsepower numbers. I’m not planning on getting numbers that high in my first build, but who knows where I’ll be down the road. It’s also easier to get more horsepower for less money out of a 351, all else being equal, simply due to the larger displacement to start with. Finally, the Ford small block platform in general has a vast array of parts and aftermarket support, meaning I can build the engine just about any way I want to, and I plan on it.

Why did I get this particular vehicle as a donor? Well, obviously, it’s got the 351, which is the engine that I was looking for, and it was a fantastic deal. I managed to get this chassis with the engine, transmission, and pretty much everything you see here for right around 500 bucks. Now, the people that had it before were going to use it for some kind of a hot rod project, but it turns out that the frame is bent right here. Now, I don’t care about the frame; I’m getting it for the engine, so that works out good for me. And the fact that it’s a ’94 means that it’s a roller block. Now, a roller block means that I don’t have to go out and get link bar lifters or some kind of retrofit kit if I want to get a roller cam. It’s not that big of a deal; it’s only a few hundred dollars, but it does save you that money.

This chassis has been pretty much sitting here ever since I bought it. I’ve done a couple of things to it. I pulled the gas tanks off and sold those. I fogged the engine, which I’ve got a video about how to do that, and I sold the steering column because when I bought it, I also got the steering column and a complete wiring harness with ECU and everything. So I’ll probably end up selling that too because I’m going to convert this from EFI to carbureted, so I don’t need that stuff. That’s just more money that I can put in my pocket to go out and buy cool stuff for the engine.

The best way to determine what the internals of an engine look like without actually tearing it apart is using something like this borescope camera. Now I’ve got it hooked up to my laptop up there, but you can use a tablet or usually even a cell phone to do this if you’re sort of out and about and don’t have access to a big old laptop like I do. So we’re just going to go ahead and stick this inside and take a look and see what the cylinders look like. Oh, I’ll sit down. Hello! All right, here we go. It’s actually really hard to see with the reflection in there. Let’s try a different cylinder here. So you can still see some of the cross hatching on the cylinder walls. Let’s take a look at another one. It’s kind of hard to get an idea of what you’re seeing here sometimes, but obviously that’s the top of the piston. Looks like it’s in pretty good shape there. There we go. Now it’s really hard to see out here in the daylight. I’ll take a better look at this once I get inside and look at it on the computer, but everything looks pretty good from this angle here. Well, there we go. Ah, there we go! Yeah, see, I’m not a mechanic, but to me that looks pretty good for a used engine, so I’m pretty happy with that.

One of the problems with using a borescope like this during the daytime is that it can be really hard to see on a screen like a laptop screen or your phone screen. I mean, unless you see some really egregious damage, which shows up right away, and then you know what you’re looking at, some of the stuff that you’re looking for can be kind of subtle. So just keep that in mind if you ever take a borescope out to the field.

Well, there you go. That’s the donor and the 351 Windsor insider. I hope you guys enjoyed this video as much as I enjoyed making it. I did a lot of research on these engines, and I just love digging into the history and all the information about them. I was super stoked when I managed to get a hold of this one. I just can’t wait to tear it apart, see how it looks on the inside, and get it rebuilt and into the old truck and see how it runs. Man, there’s just so much to look forward to with this, and I can’t wait to get my hands dirty on it. Hopefully, I can do a good job and not blow it up or have any major issues, but you know, that’s part of the adventure too, so we’ll see how that goes. Hopefully, you guys will be along for the ride, and I can’t wait to get out more videos about it and see where this takes me. As always, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again so much for watching, guys. We’ll see you next time.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. What is a bullnose and why do I have one? A bullnose is a Ford truck built from the years 1980 to 1986, like the one behind me. This one here is a 1985 F-150. Bullnose trucks are F-150, F-250, F-350, or Bronco, anywhere from ’80 to ’86. And why are they called a bullnose? Well, because the front of the truck looks kinda like a bull’s nose, if you imagine.

So why do I own a bullnose? Well, it’s a project truck for me. I’ve always loved Ford trucks. In fact, my daily driver is a 2007 Ford F-150, so the F-150 platform is something I know and love very much. And I wanted something older that I could work on, something carbureted, something that was easy for me to sort of sink my teeth into and learn how to rebuild engines and do all the kind of mechanical stuff. See, my entire life I’ve been a computer guy. I write programs for a living, so I never really worked very much with my hands. And I thought, what better way to get my hands dirty than to do it on an old Ford truck? So, my project.

So why did I choose this particular truck? After all, I had to drive all the way to San Antonio, Texas, to pick it up. Well, I couldn’t find any trucks like what I was looking for around here. So what does that mean? Well, first of all, as you can see, it’s in pretty good shape. The paint’s a little faded, but there’s no rust, and the body is really straight. So that’s one thing. Another thing that’s pretty obvious is that it’s a short bed. Now, I was looking for a short bed because I want a truck that’s going to be a little bit sportier, because I’m planning on putting a few more horses under the hood and making like a little street truck out of it. Now, I’m not going to do any kind of racing or anything, but what I’m going for would be better with a short bed, so I wanted to make sure I got one of those.

It also runs really well. I basically could just drive it right out of the box, except for the fact that it’s a manual. So I knew I wanted a manual because I’d never driven a stick shift before in my life. And I figured, what better way to learn how to drive a stick than to buy a vehicle that I can’t drive unless I know how to drive a stick? So I had to teach myself, and that’s what I did. And I’m glad to say that it works. I can now drive a stick shift. At least I can drive this stick shift.

The last thing that I wanted to make sure that I had, no question, was air conditioning. I mean, because come on, I live in New Mexico, and it is hot as in New Mexico. Let me go ahead and start her up, and I’ll let you take a listen. The engine in this truck is an inline six, and it’s got an NP 435 manual transmission. That’s a four-speed, but it’s effectively a three-speed. The first speed is granny low. I mean, I could throw this thing into first gear, get out, and walk alongside it. So you basically never use first gear in a truck like this.

Even though I pretty much just started my channel last month, I’ve had the truck for a couple of years, so I’ve had some opportunity to do just a little bit of work to it. So let me just briefly go over some of the stuff that I’ve already done. I’ve changed all the fluids, including this stuff. I’ve replaced both side mirrors. I’ve replaced the door and window seals, and I replaced the door striker. I’ve repositioned the license plate so the tailgate doesn’t smack it when it comes down. I’ve changed the battery twice. I have replaced the alternator. I replaced my marker lights and updated the blinkers. I replaced my tail lights. I’ve wrapped the steering wheel, and I’ve replaced the rear view mirror. I added LED dash lights and LED interior lights. I let someone from Craigslist load something into the back of my truck with a forklift and bend the bed. So that’s my bullnose.

But I’m not done. I mean, I started this channel with the intent of making videos for people who may have a similar truck or similar interests, and mostly because I’ve never done this before. And this is all gonna be a learning experience for me. And so I’m kind of hoping that by going through this and having a learning experience that, uh, if I film it, maybe I can help some other folks. So let’s talk about what my plans are for the bullnose and for this channel, and I got a whole bunch of them.

So obviously the big deal is a new engine. The truck right now has a 306. It’s an inline six. These motors are bulletproof, and there’s going to be a lot of people, a whole lot, that are going to tell me that I shouldn’t swap the motor, that the 306 is one of the greatest engines that Ford ever made, and it’s ridiculous to pull a perfectly good running 306 out of a truck and put in something different. But a 306 is not the engine that I want for my application. What I want is something with a little more punch. So what I’m putting in there is a 351 small block, and I actually already have one, but that’s a future video. Eventually, I would like to stroke it, probably to 408, and get between 400 and 500 horsepower. But that’s a long ways down the road. I think to begin with, I’m just going to go ahead and do a regular engine rebuild, and I might put a couple of power adders on there, but I haven’t quite decided what I’m going to do with that just yet.

And of course, um, I’m going to do basically everything that I can to make the truck as nice as possible. So we’ll do some interior work. I’m going to work on the interior molding, make it look nice. I’m not sure exactly what I’m going to do, if I’m going to spray paint it or if I’m going to wrap it with some kind of fabric or, you know, what I’m going to do there. I do know I want to put some kind of sound deadening on the inside. I do want to add carpet. Right now it’s just that old rubber mat on the ground. I want to take care of that. I’m going to have to reupholster the seats or get real nice seat covers, but I think I’m probably going to end up reupholstering.

Um, so I’m also going to do a lot of electrical work. When I inherited the truck, well, when I purchased the truck, whoever I inherited it from did some questionable electrical work, so I need to go in and take care of some of that. I’m going to replace the headlights with probably LED headlights, and eventually I’ll be putting in a stereo system, probably putting speakers in the door panels and adding things wherever I can figure out how to add them. I might try to put a double din radio in there. I’m not quite sure yet. I’ve got an extra dash piece, um, bezel for the radio, so just, uh, I screw it up, I’ve got an extra, so we might try that for an episode.

Um, I gotta change the horn. The horn that’s in it right now is stupid. Maybe one of these times I’ll honk it for you and let you hear it. It’s wearing, it’s really terrible, so I want to upgrade the horn. Um, at some point I may paint the truck. I’m not sure if I have the ability to actually spray paint a vehicle, but I think I’d like to try. I’ve watched a lot of videos on it. I’ve seen a lot of instructional videos and read a lot of websites and forums and stuff. And, uh, we’ll get it sanded down and strip back probably to metal and put some primer on it and get sanded and do all the blocking and everything else and then pick a color and maybe paint it.

I’ve also thought about putting vinyl on it in terms of like a vinyl wrap, although I wouldn’t wrap the entire truck, but I might wrap parts of it rather than do a two-tone paint job because I’m not sure I could pull off a good two-tone paint job, especially since I’ve never painted a vehicle before. I’ve thought fleetingly about doing a crown vic swap. So for older Ford trucks, especially older ’79 or older, the generation before mine, a lot of guys put crown vic front ends in them from 2002 and forward Crown Victorias because they basically just bolt right in, and they’re more of a car suspension, so they handle power much easier and they ride much better. You can do a crown vic swap on a bullnose. It’s a lot more work than, um, it’s called a dent side from the earlier generation up to ’79, but it can be done. So I’m thinking about that.

Regardless of whether I do that or not, I’m going to have to upgrade the suspension on the truck just because it’s a little sloppy, and I’m putting a little bit heavier engine in there, and it’s going to have more power, so I want to make sure that I’m not falling down on my suspension. Um, I’ve thought about upgrading the transmission. A, uh, NP435 isn’t exactly a race transmission. Not that I’m gonna be racing it, but it’s a very solid truck transmission that drives like a truck, and it could probably handle four or five hundred horsepower as long as you’re not working it too hard. But what I’d really like to have is the ZF5. The F5 transmission is a heavy-duty, still a truck transmission, but it’s a five-speed with overdrive. And, uh, the fact that my truck doesn’t have overdrive right now is rough, um, especially on the interstate, you know, going 65, 70 miles an hour, it’s spinning pretty high. So I’d really like to have an overdrive transmission.

If I had all kinds of money, I’d go out and get a TKO transmission and, you know, put one of those in there, but they’re big bucks, so we’ll see what happens. And I’ve also thought about maybe changing the rear end, uh, getting a locking differential or changing the gears. Um, to be honest with you, I don’t remember exactly what the gears in there are right now. I’d have to look it up. I have it written down somewhere, but I’ve thought about changing the gears and doing a gear swap in the back and adding a locking differential. Obviously, I’ll be upgrading the tires and the rims. In fact, that’s probably coming in the next couple of weeks, and, uh, I’ll be doing things here and there to spruce the truck up and, uh, just make it better overall.

So I’ve got a lot of plans, and hopefully they pan out, and hopefully you guys get to see them because I’m really excited about doing all this stuff on camera and, uh, getting some of this stuff out there, especially when it comes to the engine. I’ve got some really interesting ideas as to what I might do in terms of, you know, pistons and heads and camshaft and that kind of stuff and how I’m going to get to the horsepower numbers that I eventually want to get to. Um, thinking about maybe using some cheap eBay parts just to see how they work. I mean, I’ve got a donor engine, so if I blow it up, then, well, I mean, I still got the original 306 I could drop back in if I had to, or, you know, 351 ones aren’t that hard to find in that junkyard somewhere. So yeah, I may have a little bit of leeway to screw up. I mean, it’s my first engine build ever. I’ve never even worked in a small engine before, so, um, I may be biting off more than I can chew, but hey, you know, that’s part of the channel. That’s, uh, that’s part of what we’re doing here.

All right guys, there you go. That’s a bullnose. That’s my bullnose. That’s what I’ve done, what I plan to do, my plans for the channel, all that stuff. So if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. As always, thanks for watching guys. We’ll see you next time.