Tag Ford truck upgrades

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And let me ask you a question: what’s the ultimate transmission for your old Ford truck? Something that will handle heavy loads, eat up the miles on the highway, but still give you that solid manual shifting experience that lets you know you’re driving a truck. The ZF5 transmission might just be the answer. It’s the heavy-duty overdrive gearbox that gave Ford trucks new life, and today we’re going to crack open everything you need to know about it. From finding one for your build to understanding what makes it appealing for a swap, we’re going to see if the ZF5 really is all it’s cracked up to be and why it’s still one of the most sought-after upgrades out there. Stick with me because we’ll also get real about why you might want to pass on it for options like the Mazda M5OD, TMIC TKO, or even the MV4500 from the other guys. By the end of this video, you’ll know exactly what you’re getting into.

Hello! Manufactured by ZF Friedrichshafen AG, the ZF5 is a 5-speed manual workhorse made for Ford trucks from the late ’80s through the late ’90s. The S542 was designed to replace the older four-speed gearboxes, offering better fuel efficiency and improved highway driving with its fifth gear. In the mid-1990s, the S547 came as an upgrade, increasing torque capacity from 420 lb-ft to 470 lb-ft. The ZF5 was built for heavy-duty stuff like towing and off-roading while providing a balance between low-end torque and cruising. The later S547, with its stronger internals, was better suited for powerful engines such as the big blocks or diesels, but both models are considered pretty heavy-duty.

So now let’s look at some key specifications for both versions of the ZF5. They were both a 5-speed manual with overdrive. Both had all forward gears synchronized for smoother shifting. The gear ratios between both are the same: first is 5.72 to 1, second is 2.94 to 1, third is 1.61 to 1, fourth is 1:1 or direct drive, fifth, which is overdrive, is 0.76 to 1, and reverse is 5.24 to 1. The case material is aluminum for strength, weight savings, and heat dissipation. It weighs right around 135 lb without fluid and it measures 26 1/2 in long, 16 1/2 in wide, and 17 in high. This compact size allows it to fit various Ford models in both 4×2 and 4×4 configurations. The transmission holds approximately 5 quarts, though this may vary slightly depending on the specific vehicle setup. It’s recommended to change the transmission fluid at every 30,000 to 50,000 miles under normal driving conditions. For trucks used in heavy-duty applications such as towing or off-roading, more frequent changes at every 20,000 to 30,000 miles isn’t a bad idea.

Now let’s talk about how the ZF5 feels to drive. One thing that sets it apart is its mechanical shift feel. If you’re used to a lighter-duty transmission, the shifts are a bit notchy, meaning there’s a more deliberate solid engagement as you change gears. That’s not necessarily a downside; it gives you a strong sense of connection to the truck, which many enthusiasts love. It’s a transmission that feels tough, though it requires a bit more effort to shift than a TREMEC TKO or an M5OD. The ZF5 transmission, which includes the ZFS 542 and S547 variants, has a typical 5-speed manual shift pattern, and here’s how the pattern is laid out: first gear is top left, second gear is bottom left, third gear is top middle, fourth gear is bottom middle, fifth gear, the overdrive gear, is top right, and reverse is bottom right. To engage reverse, you typically need to move the shifter to the far right and then down. Some versions of the transmission may require you to push down on the shifter or pull up on a collar to engage reverse, depending on the vehicle and the specific shifter setup.

Ford paired the ZF5 with multiple different engines. You’ve got the Windsor, the 5.0 L and 5.8 L, and you’ve got the 4.9 L 396. The big block pattern matches larger engines like the 7.5 L, which is the 460, and the diesel pattern is designed for the 7.3 L IDI Diesel and the 7.3 L Power Stroke diesel. Now let’s quickly talk about something else that’s crucial when considering the ZF5 transmission: whether or not it’s a 4×4 or a 4×2 version. They are not interchangeable. The 4×4 versions are designed to bolt to a transfer case and have a shorter output shaft, while the 4×2 versions are for two-wheel drive trucks featuring a longer output shaft and a different tail housing. So if you’re planning a swap, make sure you’re matching the transmission type to your truck’s drivetrain.

Between the three different bell housing patterns and the two different drivetrain configurations, there are six possible installation setups for a ZF5 transmission, so ensure you choose the right one if you’re doing a swap or buying a rebuilt unit. To simplify which Ford models came equipped with the ZF5, let’s look at this chart. It provides a full breakdown of every truck and van with the ZF5, the years they were available, and the bell housing patterns they used. It’ll help you pinpoint what you need to look for when hunting for one of these transmissions at a junkyard or a pick-a-part. As you can see, the ZF5 found its way into quite a few Ford models. First off, you notice the F250 and F350 are some of the main players here. If you’ve got a gas engine, these trucks are running ZF5 from ’87 to ’97 for the 250 and up to ’98 for the 350. They had the small block pattern for the earlier S542 models and the big block pattern with the S547 once it was introduced. When you jump over to the diesel trucks, the ZF5 was right there from the start, available with the 7.3 L IDI Diesel and later the Power Stroke model. So whether you’re working with an F250, F350, or even a bigger F450, you’ve got a solid spread from ’87 to ’98 for a diesel ZF5. For diesels, ZF5 trucks have the unique diesel bell housing pattern. The F-150 also occasionally came with the ZF5, particularly in the 5.0 L and 5.8 L engines, though it’s a bit of a rarer find and mostly in fleet trucks. If you’re thinking about the Bronco, it also had the small block ZF5 option, making it a great fit if you’re building a Bronco and you want that five-speed. Lastly, we can’t forget the E-Series vans, those E250s and E350s, which could come with a ZF5. They’re less common, but they did use the small block or diesel patterns depending on the engine under the hood.

If you’re planning a 4×4 build, you want to make sure that you think about transfer case compatibility with your ZF5. The two most common options are the BorgWarner BW1356 and the New Process NP205. The 1356 is a good choice for off-roading and it’s known for being lightweight and durable. The NP205, on the other hand, is a cast iron unit and considered nearly bulletproof. Each of these transfer cases bolts up to the ZF5 without major modifications, so long as you have a 4×4 compatible transmission. So it really comes down to the needs of your build and how you plan to use your truck.

Now let’s say you’re searching for a ZF5 in a salvage yard, swap meet, or online listing. How do you know you’re looking at? First, you look for the ZF logo cast on the side of the case; dead giveaway. Specific cast numbers can also confirm whether you’re looking at an S542 or an S547. Finally, and probably the easiest to see at a glance, check the case. It has a distinct crisscross rib design that makes it stand out from other transmissions.

So how much will a ZF5 cost you if you’re looking for one? As always, prices vary based on condition and location, but here’s a general idea: a used ZF5 transmission can run anywhere from $400 to $1,200 and sometimes higher depending on factors like mileage, configuration, and the variant you’re looking for. If you find one that’s been rebuilt or is in like-new condition, expect to pay more, anywhere from $1,200 on the low end to $2,500 on the higher end. If you’re looking to buy a rebuilt ZF5 from a reputable rebuilder, expect to pay between $1,500 and $3,000 depending on the level of work done, the rebuilder’s reputation, and whether they have done any performance upgrades that are included in the build. The bell housing pattern can also influence the price, and some are in high demand or can be harder to find.

But let’s say you find a deal on a ZF5 that needs a little bit of TLC. How much would it cost to rebuild it yourself? Well, rebuilding any transmission can be a big job, but if you’re hands-on and you’ve done some transmission rebuilds before, it’s possible with a DIY project. Parts and rebuild kits typically range from $400 to $600, with some kits including all the bearings, synchros, and seals. If your transmission requires more extensive work, like replacing damaged gears or shafts, costs can increase, potentially adding a few hundred in parts. Circling back around to the difficulty, if you’ve rebuilt manual transmissions before, the ZF5 isn’t too complex, but it does require precision and the right tools. A good shop press, snap ring pliers, and a bearing puller are all added to the app. For someone with solid mechanical skills, it’s a doable weekend project. However, if you’re newer to transmission work, you may want to consider having a professional handle it or guide you to the more intricate parts.

I would have somebody build it. As I’ve said before, the ZF5 is known for its durability, but like any mechanical thing, certainly transmissions, it has a few issues. Over time, you might experience shift fork wear, which when the forks guiding the gears wear down, causing poor shift quality. If it’s harder to shift into gear or you notice some sloppiness, worn shift forks are usually the culprit. Synchro wear is another issue, especially on second and third gears. Regular fluid changes can help extend the life of your ZF5, but if trouble arises, it might be time for a rebuild. And finally, listen for input shaft bearing noise. A whining or grinding sound under load could indicate a worn input shaft. Replacing it during a rebuild is a good idea to keep your ZF5 running smoothly and quietly. I mean, you know, unless you want to have a manual transmission.

Both the ZFS542 and S547 are pretty good right out of the gate as far as upgrades, but several aftermarket options are available to make it even better. For instance, upgrading to a heavy-duty clutch can improve the transmission’s ability to handle higher torque levels, particularly in the S547, which may be used in truly tough situations. You can also install a short throw shifter; this can reduce shift time and effort, making the transmission more responsive and enjoyable to drive. It takes away some of that truck feel but makes it a little bit more sporty, although it’s never going to be sporty. Finally, adding an external transmission cooler can manage heat in demanding situations and extend the life of your ZF5.

Okay, now for some comparisons. If you’re considering a ZF5 for a swap, don’t miss this. I’m going to quickly compare how the ZF5 stacks up against a few other options and see why you might choose one over the other. So I’m going to start with my situation; that’s the NP435. That’s what I have in mind. I’m thinking about going to a ZF5. It’s a four-speed manual with a low first granny gear; it’s around 6.68 to 1, makes it great for heavy-duty stuff like towing or off-roading. But without overdrive, it’s not ideal for highway driving or even going around town, and that’s where the ZF5’s fifth gear shines. Shift points on the ZF5 are also better space for overall drivability. That said, the NP435 is way less expensive than the ZF5, both as a used or rebuilt option, and its durability is legendary.

Now the T18 and T19 from BorgWarner are similar to the NP435. They’re both four speeds and they’re rugged and great for low-end work. The T18 has a granny low first gear around 6.32 to 1, but like the NP435, they lack an overdrive, so they fall short on fuel efficiency and drivability compared to the ZF5. Maybe the closest comparison is the M5OD. It’s a lighter-duty 5-speed used in Ford trucks from the late ’80s to the early 2000s. While it’s compact and great for light-duty applications, it doesn’t really handle high torque like the ZF5 does. That makes it less suitable for heavy hauling and off-roading or performance. It’s easier to find and less expensive, though, so if you don’t need the high torque capability of the ZF5, it’s probably a good option.

Now let’s touch on the NV4500. That’s the New Venture Gear. It’s a strong competitor with a low first gear and fifth gear overdrive, but it’s often seen in GM and Dodge trucks. It’s comparable to the ZF5 in durability and versatility, but it requires a custom adapter to fit a Ford engine, which increases cost and complexity, and it’s also not a Ford option. So if that’s important to you, an NV4500 might not be the best choice.

So the TREMEC TKO 600, it’s a performance-oriented 5-speed. It’s ideal for muscle truck builds where street feel and smooth shifting matter the most. However, it’s often more expensive by a fair bit than the ZF5, and its gear ratios are geared more toward performance driving than towing or off-roading. But if you’re looking for the meanest street/strip transmission and cost isn’t a concern, this is probably your go-to. If, however, you want your truck to feel like a truck, then you should stick with the ZF5.

And finally, we’ve got the TREMEC TR4050. It’s a modern option. The TR4050 offers a synchronized reverse and newer tech, but at $4,000 to $5,000, it’s a big investment. If you want a modern transmission with heavy-duty capabilities and you have the budget, it’s a strong choice. But the ZF5 is way more cost-effective and it’s way easier to find.

Okay, so let’s bring it all together and wrap it up. When it comes to finding the right transmission for your truck, the ZF5 has a lot going for it. It balances durability, versatility, and affordability for the most part, making it a top choice for Ford truck swaps. With five speeds, including that crucial overdrive gear, the ZF5 is an ideal transmission for those needing both low-end workhorse torque and want to cruise smoothly on the highway. One of the ZF5’s major advantages is its flexibility in configuration. There are six different mounting options when considering the three bell housing patterns: small block, big block, and diesel, and the two drivetrain configurations: 4×2 and 4×4. This makes the ZF5 a versatile choice for a range of builds, and it fits all those engines like the Windsor, the big blocks, and the IDI diesel. If you’re building a truck and need a tough, reliable manual transmission, odds are there’s a ZF5 that’ll bolt right up if it’s a Ford truck and as long as you can find it.

As I said before, for my own project, I’m strongly considering a ZF5 because it can handle the torque of a four-way stroker while not bringing an RPM that isn’t screaming on the highway. That said, the TKO600 has been on my radar too, whispering in my ear, mostly because of the street feel and the reputation it has for smoother shifts. It’s a choice that comes down to price and what kind of driving experience you want. The ZF5 will give you the toughness and reliability I’m looking for, and it’s generally easier to find and cheaper to rebuild. But if performance and that crisp street feel are top priorities, the TKO600 is a strong contender, even if it does cost a bit more. I’m still undecided, to be honest. You know, I like the idea of the nice, you know, that a truck is a truck and should shift like a truck, but man, that street/strip Windsor engine is kind of calling my name. Let me know in the comments what you think.

So that’s it, guys. Everything that I know or pretend to know about the ZF Friedrichshafen. But I like ZF. And that’s it, guys. That’s everything that I know or pretend to know about the Friedrichshafen ZF5, S542, and S547 5-speed manual transmissions with overdrive. Guys, as I always ask, if you learned something today, you found the content interesting, give me a like, give me a subscribe, go grab a cool hat, help me out. I really appreciate it. As always, thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time. Take her away, getting things to shine that she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We’ll see you next time.

I have the power. Hello, all right folks, enough of that cheesy nonsense. Ed here, welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today we’re talking alternators, specifically swapping out the stock 1G alternator for a 3G. As a bonus, I pulled a 3G alternator from my 351 Windsor donor vehicle, and I’ll be using that as a visual aid today.

If you’ve had your truck for a while, especially if you’ve added accessories like lights, new headlights, a better stereo, or maybe an electric fan, you’ve probably noticed that the 1G can struggle to keep up. This is where the 3G comes in. It’s got more power, better reliability, and fewer headaches. So let’s dive into why you’d want to make the switch and how to get it done.

So why do we want to ditch the 1G? Well, the stock 1G alternators from these 1980 to ’86 trucks were fine for their time, but they’ve got a bit of a reputation for being underpowered. They typically put out around 65 amps. It’s okay for a truck back in the ’80s mostly, but once you start adding aftermarket accessories like extra lighting or modern electronics, the 1G just can’t keep up. And then there’s the wiring. The 1G alternators have external regulators and use fusible links, which aren’t the most robust system. The connectors can overheat and melt, and nobody wants that under the hood. It’s like running a garden hose when you really need a fire hose.

Enter the 3G alternator. This upgrade for the mid-’90s is substantial. The 3G alternator is internally regulated, so it ditches that problematic external regulator and fusible link setup. The big deal though is the output. It’s much higher, anywhere from 90 to 130 amps depending on the model. That’s a big leap over the 1G’s 65 amps. What’s great about the 3G is it’s not just more power; it’s more stable power. You’ll get better voltage regulation, which means your truck’s electrical system is happier, especially at idle. With the 1G, your lights might dim or your stereo might cut out when you’re idling at a stoplight. The 3G helps prevent that. And if you’re running a winch or big off-road lights, it’s pretty much a must-have upgrade.

So right here I’ve got the 3G alternator that I pulled for my 351 Windsor donor vehicle. Let’s take a closer look. One thing you notice right away is this connector here. This is the voltage regulator. Unlike the 1G, which had an external regulator mounted on the fender, the 3G has it built right in. Another thing to note is the size. This one here is a 90 AMP version, which is just slightly larger than the 1G but should still fit in the same bracket with no major modifications. If the mounting points are correct, however, this one won’t work directly for a bullnose swap because the mounting ears aren’t correct. This one has three mounting points. What you need is a version with two mounting ears directly offset at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. This is a side mount alternator, and you’re looking for a pivot mount alternator.

So how do I know this one’s 90 amps? Well, the 90 AMP models like the one I’m holding here have four vent holes in the rib sections on the front. If you’re looking for the higher output 130 amp version, those typically have two vent holes and are physically larger. That means the mounting holes in the 130 amp model are spaced further apart. So depending on your bracket setup, you may need to make adjustments for a proper fit. Also, keep in mind if you’re running a single V belt system, the 130 amp version might not work out. A single V belt can only handle about 100 amps before it starts to slip. So if you want to run the 130 amp alternator, you’ll need to upgrade to either a serpentine belt setup or a dual V belt system to handle that extra resistance.

Speaking of that, if your bullnose is running a V-belt setup like mine, you’ll also need to swap the pulley from the 1G onto the 3G. If the 3G has a serpentine pulley like this one, it’s pretty straightforward. Just remove the nut that holds the pulley onto the 1G, slide the V-belt pulley off, and do the same on the 3G to remove it. If it has a serpentine pulley, you’ll probably need a shim to move the pulley out just a bit so the belt doesn’t rub on the case, but those are pretty inexpensive. You can then pop the V-belt pulley onto the 3G alternator and tighten it down. That way everything stays compatible with your existing belt system.

And lastly, the output terminals. This heavy-duty charge stud here is where your main power connects. If you’re upgrading to a 3G, you want to run a heavier gauge wire from here to your battery or solenoid to handle the higher output. Now the good news is that even with all that that I just said, the swap isn’t too complicated. But like any job, you want to have the right parts and prep work done first. You’ll need the alternator itself, like the one I just showed you, but with the right mounting setup. The 3G alternators we’re looking for came off a bunch of Ford vehicles from the mid-’90s. To help you out, I put together a list of vehicles you can source a 3G alternator from, which I’ll throw up on the screen right now. Take a look at these vehicles. You’re looking at anything from the 1994 to ’95 Mustang, which had a 130 amp alternator, to vehicles like the Ford Taurus, Thunderbird, and even E-Series Vans. Other options include the Lincoln Continental and Mercury Cougar. You can pick these up at junkyards, and they’ll bolt right up to your bullnose with a little bit of wiring work.

Now, like I mentioned before, if you’re running a V-belt in your truck, you’ll also need to make sure you swap the pulleys. Get that done before you start the actual swap. You don’t want to find out that you forgot when you’re trying to wrap a V-belt around a serpentine pulley. That’s no fun. Now, if you’re not interested in sourcing a 3G alternator from a junkyard, there are plenty of aftermarket options available. Companies like PA Performance and Tough Stuff offer brand new 3G alternators that are designed specifically for older Ford trucks, including bullnoses. These aftermarket models often come with higher output ratings too, sometimes over 200 amps, and they’re built to handle modern accessories. And what’s great about going aftermarket is that many of these kits include the upgraded wiring, a pretty install V-belt pulley if you need it, and even instructions on how to make the swap as easy as possible. Now, they do cost a bit more than a junkyard pull, but it’s a solid option if you want peace of mind with new parts and you don’t want the hassle of digging through salvage.

All right, so you’ve got your parts. Time to get the old 1G out of there. First, disconnect the battery. That’s always the first step when you’re working on anything electrical. Then remove the old alternator. There’s usually a couple of bolts holding it to the bracket, and you’ll need to disconnect the wiring harness. Now, I’m not going to get into how to physically remove the alternator in this video. It’s fairly simple, just a couple of bolts, and there are several videos out there that will show you exactly how. It can be a bit of a pain to get down there with a socket, but just keep at it, and you’ll get there eventually.

Once the old alternator is out, bolt the 3G into place. It should fit right into the existing bracket with minimal fuss so long as you have the right model. If it’s a little tight, some folks have had to grind or modify the bracket slightly, but usually it’s nothing major. Now for the wiring, like I mentioned, the 3G has built-in regulation, so you won’t need the external voltage regulator anymore. Ditch that thing. The external regulator is typically mounted on the passenger side fender inside the engine bay. It’s a small rectangular box with a wiring harness plugged into it. You’ll wire up the new alternator using the 3G harness, so make sure you grab that from your donor if you go that route. If you’re making your own harness, the main thing to get is the power wire from the alternator to the battery or starter solenoid and the smaller wires for the ignition and dash warning light. This is also where you upgrade the charging wire. Go ahead and run that new 4 gauge wire from the alternator to your solenoid or battery, depending on your setup. Put a mega fuse in line to keep everything safe in case of a short.

Once it’s all wired up, double-check your connections. Make sure everything’s tight and secure. Then reconnect your battery, fire up the truck, and check the voltage at the battery with a multimeter. You should see somewhere around 14 volts, give or take. If it’s good, you’re in business. Take a spin around the block, turn on your headlights, crank up the stereo, maybe even turn on any accessories you got, and you’ll notice everything runs smoother, especially when you’re idling. And just like that, you’ve upgraded your charging system to handle pretty much anything you can throw at it. That is until you run your huge set of off-road KC lights while you’re cranking ACDC at your 2500 watt stereo.

So there you have it, the 3G alternator swap. It’s one of those upgrades that makes a world of difference in how your truck runs, especially if you’ve got a lot of electrical demands. More power, better reliability, and less chance of ending up on the side of the road with a melted connector. If you’re thinking about tackling this job, go for it. It’s a solid weekend project that’ll pay off every time you turn the key. Guys, if you learned something today, if you enjoy the content, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that. I’m not trying to beg, but it really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.