Tag gear ratios

What does the Ford 9-in axle and Mike Tyson have in common? No matter how old they get, they both can take a beating and keep coming back for more. This rear end is so tough it probably scares the bolts holding it together, and it’s been doing that since the ’50s.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And while it’s true that the 9-in is legendary for its strength, there’s more to the story than just soaking up horsepower. Back in the day, racers were sneaking these bad boys into competition, bending rule books like pretzels just to get a leg up. Why? Well, because the Ford 9-in rear end was like a secret weapon that gave them an edge on the track. And even now, decades later, it’s still the go-to choice for gearheads looking to put serious power to the pavement while keeping their options open. But it’s all fun and games until someone snaps an axle, and nothing is perfect. Yeah, I said it.

Today, we’re taking a hard look at what makes a Ford 9-in so revered among enthusiasts and how even the mighty Ford 9-in has its tradeoffs. So grab a seat while we shake the dust off the old shop manual and dig into every nut, bolt, and bearing until we know why this rear end practically has its own fan club.

Hello! All right, so let’s get into what makes the Ford 9-in axle tick. When we say Ford 9-in, we’re talking about the ring gear diameter—a solid 9 in of precision engineering. Back in the ’50s, Ford engineers weren’t just aiming for good enough; they wanted a rear end that outlasted the rest of the drivetrain, and they nailed it. Today, Ford 9-in axle usually means the whole rear end assembly: housing, third member, ring and pinion, and axle shafts. It’s a fully integrated system that you can tweak, tune, and toughen to no end.

What really sets the 9-in apart? It’s ridiculously easy to wrench on. Thanks to its removable third member, you can yank the whole gear set out from the front without dinking around in gear oil. That’s a lifesaver for anyone dialing in their gear ratios. Whether you’re setting up for highway cruising or shaving a tenth off your quarter mile, you can swap ratios in an afternoon, not in a weekend.

But the Ford 9-in axle isn’t just about ease of maintenance. The design itself is inherently robust. Its lower pinion placement engages more teeth on the ring gear at once, spreading the load and reducing wear. A simple tweak, but with big results. With a beefy housing, unmatched aftermarket support, and decades of refinements, you’ve got a rear end that’s just as comfortable behind a mild small block as it is handling high horsepower builds.

Speaking of beefy housings, if you ever find yourself rummaging through a junkyard for that 9-in, keep your eyes peeled for the casting marks on that center section. If you spot a big bold ‘N’ cast in there, that usually means it’s a nodular iron case—the holy grail for folks running serious power. Those nodular iron cases handle torque like nobody’s business. We’re talking about a stronger iron blend that resists cracking under high torque, like a steel-toed boot versus a flip-flop. Ford also made standard or war cases, which are still tough for most builds, but if you’re hunting the best of the best, nodular—that’s the watchword.

Another thing: not all 9-in housings are created equal. Some are big bearing and some are small bearing. You can’t always slap big bearing axles on a small bearing housing, so it’s worth checking whether your junkyard score is big or small bearing before you load up on fancy new parts. Big bearings handle heavier loads and higher speeds better—perfect for high horse builds or trucks that see a lot of abuse. Whether you’re retrofitting a classic Mustang or tackling a late model resto mod, the 9-in is up for the job.

And while we’re on this subject of adaptability, let’s keep in mind that it means the 9-in came in all shapes and sizes over the decades. Ford used it in everything from ’57 Rancheros to Broncos and F-series trucks, and the distance between wheel mounting surfaces can vary a ton. If you’re swapping a 9-in into a classic Mustang or something else entirely, you don’t always have to match the exact factory width. Going narrower can help tuck in big tires or achieve a certain stance, while going wider might fill out the fenders better. If you do decide to go off script with the width, just remember to measure your wheel offset or backspacing before you commit. Otherwise, you can end up with rubbing tires or that bulldog look where the wheels stick way out like a sore thumb. Although some folks around where I live think that looks really cool, uh, but I’ll let you be the judge.

In any case, for a restoration, sure, you might want to keep it bone stock, but for hot rodders or resto mod builders, a little fudging on the width is all right.

All right, so let’s get back on track and spin the dial back to 1957 so we can get into how the 9-in made its mark. Introduced in ’57, it debuted under full-size Ford cars like the Custom and Fairlane, delivering durability that was pretty impressive for the time. By the ’60s, as Mustangs, Thunderbirds, and Galaxies hit the streets packing some serious V8 heat, the 9-in axle became the obvious choice. Racers caught on quick; before long, you’d find the Ford 9-in rear end in everything from drag strip warriors to circle track terrors. Why? Well, it could take big horsepower without grenading its internals like a piñata at a four-year-old’s birthday party.

By the late ’60s, if you were building a serious track car or a dragster, there was a pretty good chance someone would just whisper, “What a 9-in under there?” Ford made waves by putting it in popular platforms like the Mustang. Now, not every first-gen Mustang came with a 9-in from the factory; it depended on the engine and the options, but performance variants often did. And even if they didn’t, a 9-in was pretty easy to swap in. Gearheads hoarded these axles, yanking them from junkyards, swapping them into other Fords, and even squeezing them into non-Ford builds. After all, horsepower doesn’t care what badge is on the grill when it’s time to hold the line in the back.

You know, I’ve come across more than a few stories while doing my research here—whispers passed out in magazines, interviews, uh, and the pits after the dust settled about racers sneaking Ford 9-in rear ends under their machines they had no business being in. Chevy, Mopar, didn’t make a difference. With a careful grind here and a splash of paint there, they sneaked right past the rule book to tap into the 9-in strength and reliability. These weren’t loyalists looking to wave the blue oval banner; they were competitors who knew a performance edge when they saw one. That kind of sneaky dedication says it all. The 9-in was like a backstage pass; everyone wanted it, but not everyone was supposed to have it.

By the way, if you’re sneaking a 9-in under your build, make sure you pay close attention to the axle shaft hardening. Some older 9-in axles, often the earlier 31-spline shaft units, are, uh, through-hardened, making the metals uniformly hardened from end to end. These can be safely shortened and re-pinned without splicing into a soft zone. But many later axles, especially post-’72, are only induction-hardened around the splines. Uh, chop those, and you’ll be cutting into the metal if it’s not heat-treated for high stress, which is a recipe for a catastrophic failure. So don’t just fire up the angle grinder without knowing what kind of metal mojo you’re working with. In general, 31-spline axles prior to ’72 can be sure, but because Ford’s manufacturing methods varied over time and sometimes even mid-year, uh, the safest bet is to verify exactly how each axle’s hardened. Also, if the axle is tapered, it’s generally off-limits for shortening.

If you want to keep it simple and have the cash, you can just go to aftermarket and forget all the messy shortening business altogether and skip the guesswork.

All right, let’s talk about what makes this rear end tick. A stock Ford 9-in axle typically came with either 28-spline or 31-spline axles. Spline count refers to how the axles connected to the differential. More splines typically mean stronger axles. In most factory V8 setups, 28-spline axles got the job done, but on heavier hitters like the Boss 302 or the 428 Cobra Jet, you might find 31-spline axles lurking back there for serious power. Think drag racing with a blown Windsor or a torque-happy 460; you want to upgrade to 31-spline shafts or even aftermarket 35-spline options. Thankfully, the aftermarket delivers every spline count and alloy you could dream of.

As for 9-in gear ratios, well, that’s where the fun begins. You can run something mild like 3.0 to 1 or 3.25 to 1 for long highway cruises. It lets your engine loaf along its speed without screaming. On the other hand, if you’re dropping the hammer at the track or looking for killer acceleration off the line, step up to something in the 4.0 to 1 and above range. Yeah, your fuel economy will take a hit, but when you’re chasing faster ETs, who’s counting miles per gallon anyway? The best part is that changing gears in a 9-in end is about as painless as it gets. Just pop the third member out, swap in a new set, and you’re good to go. No fumbling around inside of cramped housing.

Over the years, the Ford 9-in axle found itself under a wide variety of Ford vehicles, from certain configurations of the ’57 Ford Custom and Ranchero to Mustangs, Fairlanes, Galaxies, and later Broncos and F-series trucks. The 9-in got around. Even Mercury and Lincoln got in on the action. If you want to nerd out a little, check the chart I’ll pop up here on the screen that lists a bunch of the different vehicles and the axle widths they came with. This is perfect if you’re hunting for a junkyard 9-in and don’t want to guess which housing might work best for your ride. But always measure for yourself because Ford was known to change specs mid-year. If you’re looking for an exact fit or dealing with tight tolerances, you’ll still have to measure in person to be absolutely sure. Think of this chart as, uh, 99% correct for most cases, with enough weird exceptions out there that it’s worth breaking off the tape measure every single time.

The 9-in was as much a part of Ford’s performance DNA as the small blocks and big blocks bolted in front of it. Think about the golden age of Ford performance, and odds are a trusty 9-in was quietly holding it all together in the background. Ford’s early muscle trucks and SUVs thrived on its strength, and off-roaders have relied on its durability for decades. But let’s be real, nothing’s perfect. While the 9-in is legendary for toughness, it’s not without its quirks. One common knock is it can sap a bit more horsepower than, say, a more modern design. The culprit here is the pinion angle and how the gears mesh. The 9-in has a deeper pinion offset with a third bearing supporting it. It’s like giving the pinion gear its own personal security detail. Extra bearings equal extra stability, but it also costs you in a smidge of efficiency.

Another thing to consider: if you score a vintage 9-in at a salvage yard, it’s probably due for a rebuild. Bearings, seals, and gears don’t last forever, and given the age of some of these axles, you might be buying a project instead of a plug-and-play solution. That said, parts are everywhere, and the simplicity of the design makes it very approachable for a rebuild. When it comes to maintenance, the 9-in keeps things pretty simple: fresh gear oil, clean wear patterns, and healthy bearings and seals—that’s all it takes to keep the 9-in happy.

For high torque or horsepower setups, you probably want to step up to stronger shafts and a nodular iron third member. It’s a beefed-up aftermarket version of the stock center section. And if you’re restoring a classic Ford and want to keep it period correct, a stock 9-in axle might be enough. But if you’re building a resto mod or a serious race car, don’t hesitate to step up to high-performance parts because the aftermarket offers everything from modern limited slip differentials and lockers to advanced torque biasing setups that send power where it’s needed most.

Comparing the Ford 9-in to other axles in the Ford family tree brings up some interesting points. For instance, the 8-in axle was decent for mild street cars, but it lacked the raw strength of the 9-in. The Ford 8.8, introduced later, is a solid and lighter option with decent aftermarket support; however, it’s harder to swap gears in and is often seen as less durable under serious power. So the 9-in remains the gold standard for Ford rear ends, and that’s not just a FIA talking. It’s easy to swap gear ratios, unmatched aftermarket support, and decades of proven durability still set it apart from the pack.

Of course, if you’re a Chevy or Mopar guy, you might be shouting, “What about the 12-bolt or the 8 and 3/4?” They’re no slouches. I mean, the Mopar 8 and 3/4 even uses a dropout center just like the 9-in, and the Chevy 12-bolt has loyal fans who will swear it’s just as strong with slightly less power loss. But what makes the 9-in special is its insane aftermarket and that bulletproof third bearing pinion support.

The Ford 9-in axle is an ideal upgrade for your classic muscle Mustang project or a modern resto mod. I’ve said that before. If you’ve got a Fox Body Mustang, a Crown Vic front end swapped F100 or F-150, the 9-in can tie your build together nicely. It’s not always a direct bolt-in; you might need to narrow the housing, spring perches, or order a custom width unit for your setup. Once it’s installed, though, the 9-in becomes the ultimate rear-end playground. Whether it’s swapping gear ratios, adding limited slip differentials, or upgrading to rear disc brakes, it’s all about grabbing parts off the shelf and turning wrenches—not reinventing the wheel.

I mean, I know I sound like a broken record, but when it comes to aftermarket support, the Ford 9-in stands in a league of its own. The term here might be global phenomena. You can pick up brand new housings that mimic the originals or go all in with fabricated designs that look ripped straight out of NASCAR. You can literally put together the parts for a 9-in build from scratch in your underwear while eating Cheetos and staring at the Jegs or Racing logo. Axle shafts, choose from hardened steel alloys, beef your spline counts, and custom links tailored to your build. Differentials, everything’s on the table, from vintage-style limited slips to modern lockers and torque-sensing units that were pure sci-fi in the 9-in heyday.

The 9-in’s iconic status means the companies never stopped innovating. They’ve pushed the design and materials far beyond what Ford’s original engineers could have imagined back in the ’60s and ’70s. Of course, just because you can throw every part in the catalog at your axle doesn’t mean you should. You know, the real beauty of the 9-in is flexibility. It could be as simple or as tricked out as you want. Yeah, if you’re rocking a mildly warmed-over 302 or P51 Windsor, a stock 9-in with a refresh limited slip might be all you need. If you’re cranking out some serious horsepower with a big block or a stroked small block, consider the upgraded components. The real beauty is choice. You’re not locked into one ratio or spline count; you won’t be stuck hunting for rear parts. It’s all right at your fingertips, which is why the 9-in remains just as relevant today as it was decades ago.

I mean, the 9-in is more than just metal; it’s a piece of heritage. It’s a nod to an era when Detroit churned out parts built to last. Racers bent the rules to use it, gearheads embraced it, and modern builders still rely on it. Sure, it’s got some imperfections—a bit more parasitic loss, the occasional rebuild, maybe some extra weight compared to newer designs—but in return, you get a proven track record and limitless tuning potential. And that, that’s the secret sauce, my friends. The 9-in rear end earned its stripes the hard way, on the track, in the garage, and under the wrench. That is why even now, when you think of building a classic Ford or stuffing something monstrous under that old chassis in your garage, the Ford 9-in is the first thing that comes to mind. It’s a piece of history, a symbol of strength, and the ultimate guardian of your precious horsepower.

And all that said, you know, going into my own build, I figured the 8.8 was more than up to the task. My plan was simple: throw in some chromoly axles, lock in a solid gear ratio, and call it good for my 408 stroker build. But man, after digging deeper into the Ford 9-in axle, I’m starting to rethink that. I mean, the 8.8 has got plenty going for it—it’s lighter, it’s cheaper, doesn’t need a total rework. On the other hand, the 9-in is that bulletproof insurance policy that I’ve been talking about. Okay, easy gear swaps, legendary reputation, and massive aftermarket support. I mean, now while 450 horses, which is my target, doesn’t necessarily demand it, a 9-in would give me peace of mind, you know, whether I want to crank up the power later or just want to surprise somebody.

Now I’m in a classic builder dilemma: stick with the tried and true 8.8, beef it up, and save some cash, or go all in on a 9-in and never look back. I mean, seriously, guys, what do you think? Should I stick with the upgrade at 8.8 or take the leap to the big league 9-in? I mean, let me know because honestly, I’m still on the fence. Put your opinion in the comments, and as usual, if you learned something today, I really appreciate that. Like and subscribe; it really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop it in the comments and let me know. And as always, thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. Away getting things to shine, and oh, NOS G, she’s ConEd Divine. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Imagine an axle tough enough for rugged off-road action but light enough for everyday driving. One that is so versatile and reliable you’ll find it in front and rear setups alike, from trucks to sports cars, in both solid and independent configurations. It’s been around for over 70 years and still ranks among the top choices in the 4×4 world. Meet the Dana 44.

The Dana 44 isn’t just another axle; it’s a proven performer found in everything from classic Broncos to Jeep CJs and more. If you’re into Bullnose Fords, any classic trucks, or off-roading in general, chances are this axle rings a bell. If not, stick around because we’re covering everything you need to know. Even if you know this axle, there’s a good chance you’ll pick up something new. I’ll also clear up the differences between the solid and independent suspension versions, as well as the front and rear axle setups. There is a lot to cover, so get comfortable.

Hello! To start, let’s clarify the Dana 44 family tree. The Dana 44 name actually covers a whole series of axles by the Dana Corporation, dating back to the 1940s. It includes a solid front axle with an offset diff for 4×4 work, a solid rear axle with a center diff, and an independent front suspension using Ford’s twin traction beam setup. This axle has been a top choice for off-roaders and classic truck owners for decades because it’s tough, adaptable, and this is important, easier to work on than most.

The beauty of the Dana 44 is its adaptability across all kinds of vehicles. You’ll find it in both front and rear setups in everything from Ford trucks to Jeep CJs, some military vehicles, and high-performance cars with an independent suspension setup. We’re about to take a closer look at both the solid axle and twin traction beam, or TTB, versions, along with how each was used, especially in Ford’s lineup. For those of you looking to source parts to find a solid donor axle, I’ll share some charts later in the video showing which models and years came with the Dana 44.

First up, we’ll check out the solid axle version. Let’s start with what makes a solid Dana 44 such a popular choice. For one, this axle was commonly paired with leaf springs in Ford’s heavier duty setups, and it often uses a high pinion design. Now, when I say high pinion, it means the pinion gear sits higher up in the axle housing than in the standard setup. This design offers a few advantages, especially for off-roading. First, it improves ground clearance, lifting the drive shaft angle to keep it safely clear of rocks, logs, and other tall obstacles. On top of that, this high pinion setup uses reverse cut gears, which provide extra strength in the forward direction. That makes it ideal for front axles where the torque is applied as you pull the vehicle forward. With a high pinion Dana 44, you get added strength, improved clearance, and a smoother drive shaft angle, especially helpful if your truck is lifted.

The solid D44 is designed to handle a wide range of vehicle setups. It functions well as either a front or rear axle, giving it flexibility across different builds. In classic Fords, it’s typically found up front, but in duty setups, you’ll also see it used in the rear. Now, as a rear axle, it’s not quite as beefy as a Dana 60 or a Ford 9-inch, but it’s a solid choice and comparable to the 8.8 when you’re looking to keep weight down and agility up without compromising strength.

Now, Ford isn’t the only one to use the Dana 44. Its versatility attracted other manufacturers like Chevrolet, Dodge, Jeep, International, and even some imports, making it one of the most widely used axles around. If you’re curious about the range of models that came factory-equipped with the 44, here’s a chart with all the details. This is a great reference if you’re thinking of sourcing parts or finding a donor vehicle.

So, let’s talk specs. The solid Dana 44 typically comes with a 30 spline axle, striking a good middle ground for strength and flexibility. Earlier versions sometimes had 19 or 27 splines, but the 30 spline is by far the most common for moderate duty work. If you’re planning to go further off-road, then there are aftermarket options with 33 or even 35 splines. Just remember, if you go up in the spline count, you’ll likely need a compatible differential carrier to handle those shafts. The D44 has an 8 and 1/2 inch ring gear. Now, it’s not as large as what you’ll find in the 9-inch or the Dana 60, but it’s plenty strong for moderate off-roading and light towing.

The Dana 44’s gear ratios are also flexible, ranging from 3.07 to 1 to 4.56 to 1. Lower ratios like 4.10 and 4.56 are great for torque-heavy applications, while higher ratios like 3.55 are more fuel efficient for highway driving. The Dana 44 uses a carrier break around the 3.73 mark, so if you’re planning to switch from a high to a low ratio, you’ll need to change out the carrier. The gross axle weight rating for the Dana 44 ranges from 3,500 to 3,800 pounds, depending on the setup. While it doesn’t match the brute strength of the Dana 60, the 44 is more than capable for medium duty tasks in a 4×4 setup.

The solid Dana 44 axle typically measures about 65 to 68 inches wide from flange to flange, with axle tubes between 2.75 and 3 inches in diameter. This width provides a good balance, keeping the front end light for off-road use without compromising durability. The solid Dana 44 axle itself weighs in around 250 to 300 pounds, making it significantly lighter than the Dana 60. Most Boss AER trucks came equipped with ball joint knuckles on the Dana 44. Ball joints are easy to maintain and offer more precise steering, making them a solid choice for most setups. Some older versions feature kingpin knuckles for added durability, which off-roaders still appreciate.

Further strengths last here a quick note on fluid. The Dana 44 holds around 2 to 3 quarts of gear oil. Maintaining the oil level is crucial, especially for heavy off-roading, as it prevents the gears and bearings from overheating and wearing prematurely. If you’re looking to beef up your solid Dana 44, a whole range of upgrades can take it from a decent axle to a serious off-road contender. Stock shafts work okay for light to moderate off-roading, but if you’re planning to push further, chromoly shafts are a great upgrade. You can also go for a thicker spline count like 33 or even 35 splines if you’re aiming for that maximum strength. But like I said, keep in mind that a higher spline count often requires a compatible carrier, so plan accordingly.

If you’re going to head that route, a locker upgrade makes a big difference in off-road traction. Several types of lockers are available, but selectable lockers like those from ARB are popular because you can engage them only when needed. Keep in mind that adding a locker increases stress on the axle shafts and U-joint, so upgrading your shafts is a smart move here. If you’ve got manual locking hubs, upgrading to a heavy-duty set like Warn hubs makes for a worthwhile investment. Manual hubs are typically stronger than automatic ones, which matters if you’re running larger tires or adding extra load to the front end.

If you’re planning to take your truck over rougher trails, consider adding a truss or skid plate. A truss runs along the top of the axle, adding reinforcement to keep it from flexing under heavy use, and skid plates or reinforced diff covers give you a little bit of extra protection against rocks or trail debris.

And finally, let’s talk about ball joints and knuckles. Most Bullnose trucks with the Dana 44 come with ball joints, which work just fine for most setups. But if you’re planning on larger tires or adding weight to the front end, like a winch bumper, upgrading to a heavy-duty ball joint or even reinforced knuckle is worth considering. This upgrade adds durability and keeps your steering nice and precise.

So let’s switch gears to the twin traction beam, or TTB, Dana 44. It’s a unique setup introduced back in 1980. This version is entirely different from the solid axle, featuring an independent front suspension design rather than one continuous housing. TTB has two beams that pivot independently from a central point. This design aimed to give trucks a smoother, more car-like ride on pavement without sacrificing off-road capability. Ford primarily used the TTB Dana 44 in the F-150 and Bronco models. If you’re wondering which models came with the D44 TTB axle, here’s a quick reference chart. This should be especially useful if you’re seeking TTB-specific parts or looking for a donor vehicle.

Ford designed this axle for folks who wanted a truck that can handle trails while still running comfortably on the highway. While it’s not as rugged as the solid axle version, it offers a strong balance between off-road capability and on-road comfort, making it popular in lighter duty trucks. However, for serious off-roading, the TTB setup has its limitations. Its independent beams and pivot points wear faster under heavy use, and lifting the TTB can create challenging geometry issues.

The TTB Dana 44 usually comes with coil springs instead of leaf springs, which helps create that smoother ride. With two pivot points, one at each beam, it requires regular maintenance, especially for frequent off-road use. These beams are typically made from stamped steel, which is lighter but less durable than a solid axle under extreme off-road conditions. Like its solid axle brother, the TTB Dana 44 uses 30 spline shafts. However, since it’s not a single housing, each side includes a half shaft with U-joints that allow each beam to flex independently.

The TTB Dana 44 generally offers similar gear ratios to the solid axle, ranging from 3.07 to 1 to 4.56 to 1, so you can choose based on whether you need torque for off-road or a higher ratio for on-road fuel efficiency. Lifting a TTB axle is trickier, as the geometry can get thrown off even by modest lifts. This is one reason why some hardcore off-roaders eventually swap the TTB for a solid axle. The TTB’s main strength is ride comfort; its lighter front end provides a smoother ride on pavement, and a big advantage if your truck spends a lot of time on the road.

The TTB Dana 44 can be upgraded as well, although it has a unique set of options because of its independent design. First up, the heavy-duty U-joints and half shafts. Because the TTB relies on half shafts and U-joints for independent movement, a common upgrade here is stronger U-joints and heavy-duty half shafts. Stock parts work well under moderate use, but if you’re heading off-road with larger tires or more power, upgrading these components can prevent early wear or breakage.

Another key upgrade is bushings and pivot brackets. The TTB has a lot of moving parts, and one area that sees a lot of wear is the pivot points. Swapping in polyurethane bushings instead of the stock rubber ones and adding reinforced pivot brackets can make a big difference in stability. This helps reduce play and keeps everything lined up nicely.

Another useful upgrade for TTB setups is adding a truss. Yep, you can add a truss to the TTB beams too. Say that five times fast! TTB beams truss kits strengthen the beams to prevent flexing under load, especially useful if you’re running larger tires or taking the truck off-road regularly. A lot of TTB owners also go for extended radius arms. Stock length arms can sometimes cause binding when the suspension cycles over bumps, but extended arms let the suspension move more freely. They improve the suspension geometry if you’re lifting the truck, helping with handling and stability on rough terrain.

And speaking of lifts, lifting a TTB requires drop brackets to keep the pivot angles correct. TTB lift kits often include these drop brackets along with coil spring spacers or new coil springs altogether to keep the height right. Drop brackets are crucial for maintaining proper geometry; without them, lifting a TTB can cause uneven joint wear and affect handling.

Last but not least, just like with a solid axle, adding a locker can be a great upgrade if you’re planning to take the TTB off-road. Just remember, the TTB’s design is a little more complicated than a solid axle, so lockers can add some extra strain to the system.

And that’s the Dana 44 family in a nutshell. If you’re looking at the solid axle for off-road durability or the TTB for a smooth ride, the Dana 44 has you covered either way. With the right upgrades, regular maintenance, and a bit of know-how, these axles are ready for just about anything, whether it’s the trail, highway, or somewhere in between.

So here’s a little fun fact and something you might not expect right here at the end of the video: The Dana 44 wasn’t just for trucks. Dana also created an independent rear suspension version specifically for sports cars. The IRS D44 maintained the axle strength while being compact enough for performance-focused cars. This version appeared in some legendary rides, including the Chevy Corvette C3 from 1980 to 1982 and the C4 manuals from ’85 to ’96, the Dodge Viper, and even classic Jaguars like the E-Type and XJ. It’s a testament to the versatility of the Dana 44 platform.

There you go, guys. That’s everything that I know, or pretend to know, about the Dana 44 series of axles by the Dana Corporation. Now, this can be a very confusing topic, especially for somebody who’s new to axles or new to working on vehicles, because all these different vehicles are called Dana 44. And unless you know what you’re looking for, it can be hard to find the right information. So just remember, you’ve got a Dana 44 front axle that’s solid, a Dana 44 front axle that’s independent, and a Dana 44 rear axle, and they’re all different. On top of that, they came in all different kinds of vehicles: Fords and Dodges and Chevys, and we went over it, right? There’s a lot of different vehicles you can find them in.

So, hopefully this video gave you some good background information. It was just a real quick overview, but hopefully you learned something. If you did, guys, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that; it helps me out a lot. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop me a comment and let me know. Guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time.

She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Tinker away, getting things to shine. Oh no, Gage, she’s sent divine. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today I’m actually out in my bun, driving around, so forgive the bumps and rattles and, you know, some of the noises that happen with an older truck. Today I’m here to talk about the NP435 transmission, which is this puppy right here. That’s what’s in my truck. It is a solid workhorse of a transmission and, uh, it’s certainly worth your consideration if you want to do a, uh, a swap or if you’ve already got one you want to do a rebuild. Uh, it’s probably worth your time. I’m going to get into exactly what everything is, how it works, uh, what all the stats are, that kind of stuff. Keep in mind, uh, this video is Bullnose-centric because it’s Bullnose Garage. So while I know, uh, that the NP435 was used in other vehicles like, um, you know, basically all kinds of vehicles across the board, uh, what I’m going to be focusing on are the Bullnose vehicles, the Fords. So you’re going to see some information in the video that is specific, uh, to the Ford versions. So that’s because I’m a Ford guy, you know, that’s how it works. So while I pop up onto the interstate here and let this engine scream for mercy as it goes into the high fourth gear on the transmission because there’s no overdrive, let’s, uh, go ahead and get into it.

Hello, the NP435. This manual gearbox isn’t just a transmission; it’s a piece of engineering that stood the test of time. Known for its durability and versatility, whether you’re restoring a classic or just curious about what’s under the hood, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know about the NP435, from its gear ratios and shift pattern to the engines it pairs with and how to keep it running smoothly. The NP435 is a four-speed manual gearbox designed with one goal in mind: durability. Built by New Process Gear, a name synonymous with heavy duty, this transmission has been a workhorse in Ford’s lineup since the 1960s. It was a natural fit for the Bullnose trucks and Broncos of the 1980s, providing the kind of robust performance that these vehicles are known for.

Now, what makes the NP435 particularly interesting is its gear setup. You’ve got four forward gears, but they’re not all synchronized. Second through fourth gears are synchronized, making for smooth shifts during regular driving. The first gear, often called the granny gear, and reverse, they’re not synchronized. So if you’re trying to pop into first while still rolling, you’re in for a bit of a grind, literally. But that’s by design because first gear is really meant for when you need serious torque to get moving, especially with a heavy load. So let’s talk gear ratios. The NP435 is known for its particularly low first gear, which is what gives it that reputation as a workhorse. In most Ford applications, you’ll find the following ratios: first gear 6.69 to 1, second gear 3.34 to 1, third gear 1.66 to 1, fourth gear 1 to 1, or direct drive, and reverse 8.26 to 1. There’s also a version with a slightly less extreme first gear at 4.85 to 1, but the low ratio version is what you’ll most commonly find in these Bullnose trucks. That first gear at 6.69 to 1 isn’t something you’d use in everyday driving unless your everyday involves towing a tractor out of a ditch or crawling over boulders. It’s all about giving you the torque to move heavy loads or navigate through terrain with confidence.

The shift pattern on this transmission is pretty straightforward. Here’s how it’s laid out: first gear is up and to the left, second is down to the left, third is straight up in the middle, fourth is straight down in the middle, and reverse, that’s far right and down. Now this pattern is practical, especially for a transmission designed to handle tough jobs. First gear is intentionally out of the way so you don’t accidentally engage it when you’re moving through the more commonly used gears. Moving on to the physical aspects of the NP435, this transmission is built like a tank. The case is made of cast iron, which gives it that characteristic durability but also adds some serious heft. At around 130 lbs, this isn’t the kind of transmission you casually toss around the garage. It’s hefty for a reason; it’s built to withstand the kind of stress that comes with heavy duty use. For the four version, the input shaft, which connects to your engine, has a diameter of 1 and 1/16 in with 10 splines. You’ll also notice a power takeoff or PTO port on the passenger side of the case. This cast iron construction and solid internals are part of why the NP435 has such a loyal following. It’s not flashy, but it’s the kind of component that you can rely on when the going gets tough.

So what can you bolt this transmission up to? The NP435 is versatile, fitting a range of engines that you typically find in Bullnose Ford trucks and Broncos. Whether you’re running the venerable Ford 300 inline 6 or one of the V8s like the 302, 351 Windsor, 400, or even the big 460, the NP435 has you covered. This flexibility made it a popular choice in a wide range of Ford trucks, from daily drivers to heavy duty workhorses. When it comes to fluids, the NP435 calls for SAE 50 weight oil or 80W90 gear oil. You might be tempted to use modern synthetic oils, and that’s fine, but make sure they’re compatible with the brass synchronizers inside the transmission. These old school gearboxes weren’t designed with synthetic fluids in mind, so using the wrong type can cause more harm than good. The transmission holds about 4.5 quarts, and it’s wise to change it every 30,000 to 50,000 miles, especially if you’re working the truck hard. The NP435 typically pairs with the mechanical clutch linkage in these trucks, which is straightforward and reliable. Depending on your specific setup, the clutch diameter usually hovers around 11 in, but there’s some variation depending on the engine and vehicle configuration.

When it comes to transfer cases, the NP435 is highly compatible with several options, making it a favorite among those building serious off-roaders or towing rigs. You’ve got the NP205, a gear-driven, highly durable transfer case that’s pretty much bulletproof. Then there’s the NP28, which is chain-driven and a bit lighter but still solid for most uses. The Borg Warner 1345 is also another option, reliable, chain-driven, and well-suited to off-road adventures. This compatibility with multiple transfer cases makes the NP435 a versatile option, whether you’re building a truck for the trail or the highway. Now cooling, unlike modern transmissions that might have dedicated cooling systems, the NP435 keeps it simple. It relies on air cooling, with a cast iron case acting as a heat sink to dissipate the warmth generated during operation. For most driving conditions, this setup works fine. However, if you’re planning on running it hard, whether that’s towing heavy loads or spending long hours off-road, make sure the transmission gets plenty of airflow. Overheating isn’t a common issue, but it’s something to be mindful of in extreme conditions.

Speaking of running hard, the NP435 can handle up to 450 ft-lbs of torque. That’s a significant amount, and it’s more than enough for the engines it typically pairs with. Whether you’re hauling, towing, or off-roading, this transmission is built to take the stress without breaking a sweat. Driving with the NP435 is an experience that feels more mechanical, more connected to the truck. Low first gear, often called granny gear, is great for when you need to get a heavy load moving or navigate tough terrain, but in everyday driving, most people start in second gear. The shifts are deliberate; there’s no rushing this transmission, and that’s part of its charm. On the highway, the direct drive fourth gear allows you to cruise comfortably, although the RPMs are higher than what you’d see with modern overdrive transmissions. But that’s the trade-off: you get strength and simplicity, but not necessarily the refinement of newer gearboxes. The NP435 shines in situations where durability and reliability are more important than smoothness. It’s excellent for off-road driving, towing, and any situation where you need to trust your transmission to get the job done.

When it comes to keeping your NP435 in good shape, regular maintenance, as usual, is key. Fluid changes are a must, especially if you’re putting the transmission through its paces. Luckily, routine service like this is straightforward, although the weight and bulk of the NP435 can make more in-depth work a bit challenging. Rebuilding the NP435 isn’t overly complicated compared to other transmissions, but it does require some mechanical know-how and the right tools. A full rebuild kit will set you back somewhere between $400 and $700, depending on the quality of the parts. Uh, if you need to replace major components or if the transmission is in particularly rough shape, a professional rebuild might be in order, and that could run you anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500. Given the longevity of this transmission, though, it could be a solid investment. The NP435 is renowned for its durability; with proper maintenance, this transmission can easily last over 200,000 miles. It’s a workhorse designed to handle tough conditions, whether that’s off-road, towing, or just the rigors of daily driving. But like any mechanical component, it does have its potential issues. Synchronizers in second through fourth gear can wear over time, especially if the transmission hasn’t been well-maintained. Bearings can also wear out, particularly if the fluid hasn’t been changed regularly. And if you’re doing a lot of heavy off-roading, the input shaft might show signs of wear sooner than expected. Despite these potential issues, the NP435’s reputation for reliability is well-earned. It’s built to last, and with a little care, it will.

The NP435 has been around since the 1960s, making it one of the more enduring designs in heavy-duty transmissions. Ford used it extensively across its truck lineup, from the F100 to the F350 and even in the Broncos. Here’s a quick rundown of where you might find one: at the Ford F100 from 1966 to 1983, the Ford F-150 from 1975 to 1986, the Ford F250 from 1966 to 1987, the Ford F350 from 1966 to 1987, and the Ford Bronco from 1966 to 1977. The NP435 was favored for its ability to handle the demands of these trucks, whether that was for work, off-road, or just reliable daily driving. And thanks to its popularity and long production run, the NP435 enjoys pretty strong aftermarket support. Whether you’re looking for a rebuild kit, replacement parts, or performance upgrades, there is no shortage of options. Popular modifications include upgrading the bearings, altering gear ratios for specific applications, and modifying the shifter for a shorter throw, especially useful in off-road setups. And this transmission might not have the glamour of modern units, but its reliability and the wealth of available parts and upgrades make it a favorite among enthusiasts.

So that all sounds great. The NP435 is strong, it’s reliable, it’s heavy-duty, and it can handle pretty much whatever you throw at it. And, uh, I’m pulling right out and putting in something different. Ed, Ed, why do you do this? You’re doing this to your 3006, and now you’re doing it to your NP435 too. Why do you keep changing things? Why do you keep pulling the most reliable components out of your truck? Well, to start with, the NP435 is a four-speed with a really low first gear. Now that’s great for heavy-duty tasks, but it can feel a bit clunky and unnecessary on the street, and I’m building a street truck. And I always start off in second gear and can count on one hand the times I’ve used first gear in a real-world situation. The shifts are heavy, and there’s no synchro in first, which means I’ve got to double clutch if I want to drop down into first while rolling. Now for some folks, that’s part of the charm. There’s a raw mechanical feel that reminds you that you’re driving something built to last. But if talking about refinement for a street queen is what my truck will be, the NP435 leaves a bit to be desired. The shifts are more of a workout compared to modern transmissions, and you’re going to feel every bit of that ruggedness in your hands. It’s not the smoothest operator, and on the highway, that missing fifth gear means my Windsor is going to be revving higher than I’m going to like. It gets the job done, but it’s not what I would call a relaxing drive.

So my choice? The ZF5 is a 5-speed manual, and that extra gear makes a world of difference when you’re just out for a drive. For starters, the ZF5 is a more refined transmission all around. It’s got synchronized gears across the board, which means shifts are smoother and easier, even in first. Everything about the ZF5 feels more polished and suited to street driving. The gear ratios are more evenly spaced, which will give me better control over the power from my built 351 Windsor. And where the ZF5 really shines is that fifth gear. On the highway, it lets the engine settle into a nice, comfortable RPM, making for a quieter, more fuel-efficient drive. And you’ll notice the difference right away: less noise, less strain on the engine, and an overall smoother ride. So if, like me, you’re setting up your truck for street use and you want to enjoy those horses without feeling like you’re in a tug of war with the gearbox, I’d say the ZF5 is the way to go. It’s smoother, quieter, and just more enjoyable for everyday driving. The NP435 has its charm, no doubt, but for a refined street experience, the ZF5 will make the truck a joy to drive, whether I’m cruising around town or hitting the highway.

All that said, the NP435 isn’t just a transmission; it’s a testament to durable, no-nonsense engineering. While it might lack the smoothness and refinement of more modern gearboxes, that strength and reliability more than make up for it. Whether you’re restoring a classic Bullnose Ford or just need a transmission you can count on, the NP435 is a solid choice, and it’s built to last. So as you guys can see and probably hear, I’m out here on the interstate going about 65 mph, and that’s about as fast as I can get this rig to go using the, uh, NP435 and my inline 6. And at 65, I’m in fourth gear, spinning about 26 or 2700 RPM, so it’s pretty high. It’d be nice to have an overdrive.

All right, guys, well that’s the NP435, everything that I know or pretend to know about this solid workhorse of a transmission. Hopefully, you learned something; that’s always my goal in all my videos is to, uh, impart knowledge, take the stuff that I’ve learned, stuff that I’ve researched, and pass it on to folks, uh, to maybe help them out a little bit. So you know, now’s the time that I ask, if you really want to support the channel, I’d appreciate a like, a subscribe, uh, drop a comment down below. Hey, if you really want to support me and get some cool stuff, check out my merch store. I’ve got a lot of really cool designs on there that I’m really happy with, you know, uh, especially get here if you, uh, like a little bit of granny gear. Yeah, get your granny on. Was that creepy? I feel like that was creepy. All right, guys, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys. Oh, and by the way, that link is bullnosegarage.com merch. Get your granny on. Thanks again for watching, guys. We will see you next time. Oh.