So I’m at my ’85 Bullnose driving to the auto parts store to get some auto parts for my ’82 Bronco when suddenly the truck dies. Oh, well, that’s not good. So I pull out to the side of the road, right, and get out, pop the hood, and then I smell gas. Oh, that’s not good either.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. It’s an emergency episode of Bullnose Garage because, well, hello. For those of you not familiar, this is a carburetor. Yeah, it’s a carburetor out of my ’85. So I popped the hood, got under there, smelled gas, and there was gas pooling underneath the carburetor. Okay, well, there could be a few things going on there. You know, you have a stuck float, you got some stuff that could be overflowing, but generally when you got that kind of an issue, the biggest, most likely thing is going to be a gasket. And that’s exactly what happened to me. The gasket that’s in between the carburetor and my spacer plate here, actually you can see it here. Oh yeah, you can kind of see it here. It’s in pretty rough shape, and it’s cracked right there. Yep. So, and you see there’s some piece missing in there. Yeah, so I mean that’s a pretty easy fix, right? A gasket, not a big deal. The problem is that these gaskets, this particular one here, is not for a stock carburetor for an ’85 F-150. This carburetor is actually a model 62228. It’s a Carter Weber, which is a reman of the original Y’s. And so this gasket is not the standard kind of gaskets you get from Amazon or whatever. So you got to special order it, kind of, and it’s, you know, it’s like six, seven bucks plus shipping of five dollars. You know, then you’re looking at it and there’s $10. All right. And, well, you know, you can get a rebuild kit. It’s got all that stuff kind of built in, but those are 30, 40, maybe 50 bucks depending on where you go and what kind of a kit you get.

So, you know, I thought, hey, this is a pretty good opportunity. It’s actually kind of funny because in my last episode, or one of my last episodes, I was talking about the 361 Windsor, and I said I was going to carburete the stroker build that I’m going to do. And it’s because I wanted to get my hands dirty with carburetors, and I think I said internalize how bad carburetors actually are, and you sort of learn that process. Well, I think I jinxed myself because now I’ve got this to deal with. But so rather than go out and get a rebuild kit or just get a new gasket, I took this as an opportunity to do some learning and to do a video for you guys.

So what I got was this Thunder Minko. That’s the actual brand name, Thunder Minko YF replacement carb from Amazon. This is definitely a Chinese company that is making a super cheap carburetor replacement. This thing was like literally 60 bucks shipped to my door. So, you know, I’ve heard mixed things about these, but actually most of the stuff that I’ve seen has been fairly positive. Now you’re not going to get a lot of performance out of it, but I, you know, I’m not doing that right now. All I want to do is get this truck back on the road because it’s my backup truck, right? It’s also something that I enjoy driving on the weekends. It kind of de-stresses me to drive my old truck. So I want to get that thing back up and running as soon as possible. So I went out and had this shipped within one week for 60 bucks. We’re going to toss this puppy on there and see how it works.

Before I do that, though, I’m going to do a real quick side-by-side comparison of this thing in a little bit of an unboxing next to my stock carb, or after stock, but it’s closer to stock, I guess, to see what the differences are and kind of how they look. So let’s go over to the workbench.

All right, guys, so here we are side by side with the carb that came out of the truck and the spacer plate and the new Thunder Minko. And just so you guys know, this was like the cheapest one that I could find. It really is. That’s the only reason that I got this one because it was the cheapest one that I could find that had any reviews on it. So pull this out of here, and that’s all it is. It’s just a carburetor, which is pretty well packed. Just a carburetor packed in a box with a gasket set, and that’s basically it. There’s a little, um, like a quick reference guide, like if your carburetor is not working, some things to check. But really, I mean, if you’re buying one of these, you probably ought to at least have an idea what you’re doing.

So there it is. I mean, it looks super shiny, you know? I mean, and if you look side by side, they are definitely, um, get over here so you can see, definitely comparable. You know, obviously there’s a, and this actually comes with the spacer plate already installed with a gasket and everything. You know, so the only difference is that, um, for me, this has got a manual choke, and I think it’s actually a, uh, someone added the choke to this. I’m not 100% sure because it’s got an automatic choke here too. But there is a switch inside the truck. Now, I never use it, right? And I don’t have any problems starting the truck, so I think the automatic choke works on it. The manual is just a way to sort of have a little bit finer control, and the new one doesn’t have that, and I’m not going to miss it. So it’s got the automatic, um, heat-activated choke there.

So yeah, I mean, it’s very, very similar. You can tell by looking at them that they are almost identical. There’s a few differences, you know, but for the most part, they’re very, very similar. This is probably about half as heavy as this thing. You can really tell when you’re holding them that this is much, much lighter. By the way, guys, I’m not going to be throwing this away. I will be rebuilding this later on once I sort of get my head wrapped around how carburetors work a little bit better. I just wanted to get my truck back on the road, so I didn’t want to use this as a learning experience for me on how to rebuild a carb because I don’t want to take my time and do that. I just want to get something on there that’s going to make it run. But I do plan on rebuilding this at some point, probably for the Bronco because I think the Bronco is probably going to need a rebuilt carb at some point.

So yeah, but that’s basically it, man. This is pretty simple. You know, it’s just an automatic choke, simple YF replacement. So I’m going to go through this real quick just to check a couple of things before I get it on there, and then I will pop it on and hook it up, and we’re going to see how it runs out of the box.

So I’ve already given this thing a quick once-over, checked all the screws, made sure that they’re tight. They are. Checked the gaskets, made sure they look like they’re well sealed, and they do. I haven’t taken things apart because I don’t want to cause any problems with the gaskets that are already in there. This was put together just like this when I got it. So I’ll get it on there and just run it. I mean, I, like I said, I checked all the screws and made sure everything’s tightened down well, and it is. There’s nothing loose. Checked the throttle operation and the choke operation, and everything seems to be fine. I mean, the, you know, was working fine, and the, uh, see where we at here? Yeah, the choke’s working good.

So, yeah, I mean, I think I’m just going to go ahead and toss this thing on and see how it does. Okay, so I got three gaskets in the kit. The only one that’s going to fit is this one here. It’s got the elongated holes there. That’s the only one that’s going to fit around what I’ve got, so that’s what I got to use. There we go. Took me a while to get this one here threaded. You got to be careful with these flare fittings. It felt like it was going in two or three times, but I couldn’t get it fingertight past about one and a half turns, and that usually means you got it cross-threaded. And if you cross-thread one of these, you’re in trouble. So always take your time with these when you’re putting them in and make sure that you can turn them two or three times barehanded before you start cranking on them because if you get one crossed, I mean, you got to replace the metal line, and that’s, uh, that’s no bueno.

All right, you’ll see if I can cut this down to where, and that’s a long way down before you start flying. Think I can? Oh yeah, I have it. We find out the hard way. Oh, yep, that’s close. At least now I can get on. Yeah, there we go. A little tighter than it was. The old carburetor had this vacuum inlet here capped off, as you can see right there. I’m going to go ahead and hook that back up. It goes to the charcoal canister for the EVAP system. And a lot of guys don’t bother hooking that up because it’s part of emissions, and oh my God, emissions. And I’m not going to have the emissions on my 351 when I put that in here because I’m not going to deal with all those extra systems. But for this one, all it is is a hose that goes from here to the charcoal canister, so I’m going to go ahead and hook it back up. It’s not going to hurt anything.

All right, guys, so just as a reminder, this is straight out of the box. I have made no modifications with this carburetor whatsoever. I bought it from Amazon, opened it up, showed it to you guys, and installed it. So, yeah, it’s like a $60 carburetor, so we’re going to see if it runs. That’s pretty impressive, guys. I may have to make some adjustments to the idle and a couple other things, but you see how it does once it warms up, but it’s not doing too bad.

All right, guys, I want to give you a quick look at it installed, close up, and show you a little issue that I had. So there it is, all hooked up, ready to go. And the issue that I had is actually right there. So that’s the cap for the automatic choke, and it uses hot air from the engine through that line right there to slowly open the choke as the engine warms up. So the issue with this hole, like that, now that happened when I tried to adjust the choke a little bit. You undo these three screws just a little bit. There’s still one here you can’t see, and then I turned this, and just that piece just popped right off of there. So now the problem with this is that some cold air can get inside of here on a cold day and cause the choke to stay closed longer than you want it to. But around here, that’s not really that much of an issue. I don’t really have that many cold starts, so I’m not too worried about it. What I’m actually worried more about is grime and stuff getting in here. I’m not too worried too much about the heat transfer, so what I probably will do is just put a dab of epoxy or something on here just to kind of fill that in. I don’t anticipate turning this a whole lot. I mean, this is a $60 carburetor, so it’s not like, you know, if I have a real big issue with it that, you know, it’s a lot of money out. So I won’t be turning this a whole lot. Again, down here in the southwest, this doesn’t make a whole lot of difference. So I will just put a little piece of JB Weld or a little piece of epoxy or something on there, let it dry, and then that’ll cover that up. And as long as I’m not super crazy with it, it shouldn’t drip down in there and give me any real problems, and it should be good to go.

So yeah, and that is the only real issue I had with it. Considering I’m not a carburetor guy and don’t really know what the heck I’m doing with these, I had to do a little bit of adjustment, which caused me some grief because I’ve never done that before, and it got me down to the point where I couldn’t even start the engine at one point. But I worked through it and got it set up correctly, and now it kind of purrs like a kitten. So let me put the air and stuff back on there, button her up, and we will do one final start and show you guys how it runs.

All right, there we go, all buttoned up, ready to go. Let’s just do a final test, make sure that she fires right up, and I’ll pull away and see how she runs.

All right, guys, long as I go, take two. So what happened there was that I had my choke spring was wound way too tight, so the choke was snapping closed way too aggressively. So when I would hit the throttle, the throttle linkage would move, and the choke linkage would snap closed, and yeah, that would just kill the engine. So I’ve got that taken care of, so let’s see if it starts right up this time. That’s better.

All right, guys, that’s it for today. Thunder Minko carburetor, $60 carburetor from China on Amazon, worked out of the box. A couple things to consider: one, it’s definitely not as robust as a higher-level unit, but for that kind of money, you don’t expect it to be. And it really didn’t need much adjusting out of the box. It would have run fine. I just took it upon myself to do some adjustments and mess with things until it broke so that I can learn how to fix it. I mean, that’s not why I did it, but that’s how I ended up. So, yeah, and then that minor plastic piece breaking, I mean, guys, it’s cheap. It’s going to be, but the fact that it runs probably runs better now than it did before, and I mean, it gets me on down the road, so I can’t complain. For $60, it’s about the same price as a rebuild kit, maybe a little bit more. But now I got a spare carburetor, and I’m going to rebuild that one for, you know, to get myself the experience how to do that.

Yeah, so if you’re looking for a really quick way to get you guys back on the road if you have carburetor trouble, right, just sort of in general, like regularly, you know, you may want to look into one of these, even just to have as a spare. For 60 bucks, it’s kind of not a bad idea, you know? And hey, you know, I’ll tell you what, I’m really kind of glad this happened to me because it gives me some insight, man. I know way more about carburetors now than I did even a few hours ago, messing with things and getting things working. You know, all the different screws and adjustments and tuning and stuff. And, you know, it’s nice. One of these YF carburetors or YF clone carburetors, they’re really very simple. It’s a single barrel, nothing too fancy, right? So, yeah, you know, it’s a great way to get your feet wet, get my feet wet.

So yeah, anyway, there you go, guys. I put a link in the description to where to get this thing right here if you want to go ahead and check it out, maybe, you know, do your own carburetor swap if you need to do that. So, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, or just internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, things to shine. She’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Some Ford V8s get all the glory: 351 Windsor, the Boss 302, the almighty 460. But what if I told you that the Windsor family, yes, including the legendary Boss 302 and 351, wouldn’t exist at all if it weren’t for one scrappy little small block that paved the way?

Howdy folks, Ed here, and that’s right, today we’re talking about the classic Ford 289 Windsor V8. Nothing says timeless Ford muscle like the rumble of a 289 tucked into a 60s Pony car. But this compact small block didn’t just power the first Mustangs; it set the stage for an entire era of Ford V8 performance. It proved that big performance doesn’t always need big cubes, and it laid the groundwork for every iconic Ford small block that followed, even powered legends like the Shelby GT350 and AC Cobra. If you’re aiming for mid-60s authenticity, the 289 is pure gold.

Now, I know what some of you are thinking: ‘Ed, the 289 never found its way into a Bullnose truck, so why are you even talking about it on your channel?’ And that’s a fair point. But here’s the twist: the 289 is a direct ancestor of the 302 and 351 Windsor, both of which did call the Bullnose F-Series and Broncos home, and it set the foundation for Ford’s entire small block legacy. Plus, if you’re hunting for a fun, lightweight, high-revving swap for an F100 or F-150 project to beef up, the 289 might just be the perfect vintage Ford guy choice. Sure, it’s not Bullnose stock, but its roots run deep in Ford’s V8 family tree, and that’s worth talking about.

Hello, the Ford 289, often called the 4.7 liter, rolled onto the scene in the 1963 Fairlane as part of Ford’s new small block family. The 289 wasn’t Ford’s first small block V8, but it was the first one that really mattered. Back in ’62, Ford introduced the 221, tiny, low on power, and barely enough to get a Fairlane moving. Then came the 260, which gained some respect for being the first V8 in the Mustang and early Shelby Cobras, but neither of those really set the world on fire. Then came the 289, the first small block to get Ford’s now legendary 4-inch bore. That change gave it room to breathe, rev, and perform, turning it into the foundation for Ford’s small block dominance for the next three decades.

By the time the Mustang launched in mid-1964, the 289 was positioned to power Ford’s soon-to-be iconic Pony car, catapulting it to fame almost overnight. Back then, folks were used to the idea that more displacement automatically meant more power. The 289 helped to flip that script by proving that a smaller, higher-revving V8 could compete with and even sometimes outperform bigger, heavier engines from Ford and its rivals. At the time, larger V8s like the Chevy 327, Pontiac 326, even Ford’s own 352 and 390 big blocks were the go-to options for muscle cars and performance builds. But the 289’s lighter weight and high-revving nature allowed it to hold its own against these bigger engines. It wasn’t just a great engine on its own; it laid the groundwork for the 302 and the 351 Windsor, proving that Ford’s small block design was viable for decades.

Without the success of the 289, we may have never seen legendary engines like the Boss 302 or high-performance 351 Windsor variants. Now, Ford did make another so-called small block later, the 255, but that one was a smog-choked, low-power economy engine from the 80s that doesn’t even really belong in the same conversation. As a matter of fact, it’s one of Ford’s forgotten engines, and I covered that whole mess in another video if you want to see how things got before Ford got their act together.

If there’s one car that cemented the 289’s legend, it is the original Ford Mustang. Sure, the earliest Mustang variants also offered the 260, but it didn’t take long for the 289 to steal the spotlight. By 1965, the Mustang 289 was on its way to becoming a household name, especially with options like the high-performance 289, often called the hypo or K code, rated around 271 horsepower from the factory, but criminally underrated if you ask a lot of folks. This version featured solid lifters, a hotter cam, and beefier internals that allowed it to rev higher and deliver more punch.

The 289 did more than just move the Mustang off dealer lots; it turned it into an American phenomenon. Carol Shelby took the 289, worked his magic, and birthed the Shelby GT350, which took the racing world by storm. But here’s where things get a little interesting: while Shelby’s 289-powered Ponies were dominating, many believe that those 289s weren’t exactly off-the-shelf Ford engines. The race-prepped 289 in Cobras and GT350s were rumored to have significantly more power than advertised, with some estimates putting them well over 350 horsepower, far beyond the 271 horsepower rating of the factory HPO 289. Some even suggest that certain Shelby race engines were secretly bored or stroked beyond 289 cubic inches, meaning they weren’t really 289s at all. Now, whether that’s true or not, what we do know is that Shelby’s modifications made the 289 a true giant killer. Once people saw a 289-powered Mustang outpacing bigger, heavier cars, occasionally even including Mopar’s 426 Hemi on the smaller, curvier tracks, they realized displacement wasn’t everything.

That’s why for many Mustang fans, the 289 remains the purest expression of that first-gen Pony car excitement: high-revving, light on its feet, and brimming with potential. And speaking of the GT350, you might be wondering, what does the 350 actually stand for? I mean, surely it means something, right? More displacement? It’s that higher horsepower number? Something else kind of cool? No, according to legend, when Shelby was trying to name the car, someone asked him what to call it. He supposedly looked around, noticed that his shop is about 350 feet from another building, and said, ‘Call it the GT350. It’s good enough.’ And just like that, the name was born.

Though the Mustang gets the lion’s share of the credit, the 289 found its way into plenty of other Fords and even a few Mercurys. I’ve got a chart here that goes into far more detail if you want to nerd about this stuff. During the mid to late 1960s, the 289 was available in the Falcon, the Fairlane, the Comet, the Cougar, and even some full-size sedans like certain LTD variants or station wagons. In each of these vehicles, the 289 proved to be a flexible platform: just enough torque to make day-to-day driving a breeze, but happy enough to keep gearheads smiling on track days. Ford used it in so many platforms because it hit the sweet spot: decent power, manageable size, and reliability for folks who wanted a family car on the weekdays and a surprise hero at the stoplight on weekends. The 289 was just about perfect.

Even now, when you come across a vintage Falcon or Cougar, a 289 under the hood is a big plus, both for nostalgia and for performance. Like any engine produced over several years, the 289 went through a few noteworthy evolutions. Early 289s used a five-bolt bell housing pattern from 1963 through part of 1965, and then Ford switched to a sturdier six-bolt pattern for the remainder of its production life. This little detail is especially important if you’re hunting for a period-correct 289 V8 restoration project. Knowing which bell housing pattern your car needs can spare you a ton of headaches. Compression ratios have also changed over time, ranging from about 9.0 to 1 up to 10.0 to 1 or higher in the HPO variant. Emission standards started nibbling away at compression in the later 60s, just like all the engines of that era. Though the 289 never got hammered quite as hard as some of Ford’s bigger engines did in the 70s.

Most 289s used a cast iron block and heads with a bore of 4 inches and a stroke of 2.87 inches, giving that 289 tube total. Thanks to that relatively short stroke, the 289 was a rev-loving engine that could wind out higher than many of its larger displacement counterparts. The firing order is the classic Ford small block sequence: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, and it typically holds around 5 quarts of oil, though it’s wise to double-check the pan size if you’re building one up for performance. In terms of dimensions, the 289 measured roughly 29 inches long, 24 inches wide, and 27 inches high, making it a compact yet powerful V8 that fit easily into a variety of Ford platforms. Weight-wise, the 289 tipped the scales at around 460 lbs with iron heads. It’s relatively lightweight compared to Ford’s big block engines, which would often come in well over 600 lbs.

Horsepower and torque varied across different 289 variants. The standard two-barrel models made around 195 horsepower and 258 pound-feet of torque, while the four-barrel versions bumped that up to 225 horsepower and 305 lb-ft. The high-performance K code 289 came in at a factory-rated 271 and 312 lb-ft of torque, though real-world numbers often suggested it was making closer to 300 horsepower or more, especially in Shelby applications. Although the standard 289 crank and rods were cast, they were robust enough for almost all street builds. If you’re aiming to push the power envelope, upgrades like forged pistons, rods, or even a stroker kit can transform the 289 into an absolute screamer.

The 289 can be stroked to 331 cubic inches, making it a favorite for builders who want extra displacement while keeping the high-revving characteristics. Swapping to aluminum heads can also shave weight and unlock better flow, pushing the power output well beyond factory numbers. One thing to note is that the 289 always used a two-piece rear main seal, which was standard for small block Fords of that era. While pretty durable, these seals are prone to leaks over time, which is something to watch out for when rebuilding one. Also, because of the era in which it was built, the 289 never came with roller lifters. All factory 289s used flat tappet camshafts, unlike the later 5.0 or 302 roller blocks that Ford introduced in the 1980s. That means if you’re planning to run a modern high-lift cam, you’ll need to retrofit roller lifters or an aftermarket roller block to handle the added stress.

When people talk about Ford small blocks, the 302 and 351 Windsor often dominate the conversation. A lot of folks ask, ‘Why not just swap in a 302 or 331 Windsor if I want more displacement?’ And if you’re after raw power, by all means, bigger is typically better. But remember, those engines exist largely because the 289 laid the groundwork. Starting in 1968, Ford began phasing in the 302, which shares the same 4-inch bore but stretches the stroke to 3 inches for a bit more displacement. That small difference gave the 302 some extra torque, but many purists argue that the 289’s shorter stroke makes it more rev-happy and ideal for period-correct lightweight builds that thrive on higher RPMs.

Then, of course, there’s the 351 Windsor, which took the basic small block architecture and bulked it up. Great for folks who want more displacement in the same general block design. But if you’re restoring a ’65 Mustang or a mid-60s Falcon, dropping a 351 means you’re straying a bit from authentic. And you can’t talk about the 289 without mentioning the holy grail of match numbers in the restoration world. If your Mustang or Falcon left the factory with a 289, swapping a 302 or 331 might not feel right if you’re trying to preserve that historical value. Many collectors see the 289 as a stamp of authenticity, especially if it’s the high-performance variant. Even standard 289-powered Mustangs fetch strong prices because the 289 is so integral to what the Mustang stood for in the 60s.

Now, that being said, if you do stumble across a car that’s missing its original engine, popping in a clean, rebuilt 289 from the correct era is still a fantastic choice. It’ll keep the spirit of the build intact, and you won’t have to worry about engine bay fitment or hooking up transmissions and drivetrains that might need heavy modification. It plays nicely with a different engine. Swapping a 289 into an older project that originally had a straight six or even an earlier Ford small block is also straightforward. Mounts, transmissions, and exhaust paths are often very similar. And while the 289 might not post 460-level torque numbers, it’s a nimble, rev-happy engine that gives you an entirely different driving experience.

There’s a reason that Shelby used the 289 in the original GT350 and Cobra: less weight, balanced handling, and plenty of power to get you in trouble if you’re not careful. And if you want even more of that power, you’re in luck because, like the other Ford small blocks, the 289 has massive aftermarket support. You want to squeeze more power out of it? Sure, you start with the heads. The factory cast iron heads flow reasonably well for their era, but an upgrade to modern aluminum heads from companies like Edelbrock, AFR, or Trick Flow can unlock a serious performance bump. If you’re aiming for period-correct restoration, you want to stick with the factory cast iron heads, but you can do some mild porting and polishing, and that can help improve your flow without straying too far from originality.

Swapping the stock cam for something with a bit more lift and duration is another surefire way to wake up a 289. The factory flat tappet cam can be replaced with a performance flat tappet grind if you want to stay true to the original design. But if you’re not worried about authenticity, a retrofit roller cam will reduce friction, improve efficiency, and allow for more aggressive tuning. As in every case like this, just be mindful of your valve springs, push rods, and rocker arms to keep everything in harmony.

If more displacement is what you’re after, stroker kits can push the 289 well past its factory limits. The most common stroker setup increases displacement to 331 cubic inches, which is achieved by swapping in a 3.25-inch stroke crankshaft, which is compared to the stock 2.87-inch stroke, along with custom pistons and rods. A 347 stroker kit is another option, but if you’re going that deep, most folks prefer to start with a 302 instead. They have the same deck height but more internal wall thickness. They’re also easier to come by, and the later blocks have roller cam-ready lifter valleys. So if you’re not trying to stay period-correct and you want those extra cubes, probably starting with a bigger platform to begin with is a better choice. But if you want to stick with a 289, a mild overbore of 30 over gets you 292 cubic inches. Anything beyond 40 or 60 over is risky, as the 289’s cylinder walls are thinner than later 302 blocks.

Most 289s come from the factory with carburetors, and a properly tuned four-barrel Holley, Edelbrock, or Autolite 4100 can still deliver great performance. But if you’re looking for modern drivability, EFI conversion kits are hard to beat, like FiTech or Edelbrock Pro-Flo. They make the swap simple. These systems offer better cold starts, fuel efficiency, and throttle response, and they all kind of keep that classic small block look. Converting to electronic ignition, like a Pertronix igniter or MSD ready-to-run distributor, eliminates the headaches of points ignitions and provides a hotter, more reliable spark. If you want smoother acceleration and better combustion at high RPM, that is a must-do.

And for exhaust, the factory cast manifolds are fine for restorations, but long tube headers offer the best gains if originality isn’t really your concern. A properly tuned dual exhaust with an X-pipe or H-pipe can make a noticeable difference in both power and sound. So, as Carol Shelby was well aware, with the right upgrades, a warmed-up 289 can easily push past 350 horsepower, and you’d be surprised how many folks with bigger engines start sweating a little bit when a high-revving 289 lines up next to them.

Strip most period 289s are paired with three-speed or four-speed manual transmissions like the top loader, which is legendary in its own right. Automatics such as the C4 were also popular in the day. If you’re building a cruiser or daily driver, a C4 behind a mount 289 can be a wonderful setup: simple, robust, and easier on your left leg on a stick shift in traffic. And if you’re after a more modern driving experience, swapping in a five-speed manual like a T5 or even a modern overdrive automatic can give you lower cruising RPMs and better fuel economy without sacrificing the engine’s character.

Talking about transmissions, keep in mind if your 289 dates back to the five-bolt bell housing days, you’re going to have to have an adapter or a different bell housing altogether to mate it to certain transmissions. This isn’t a big hurdle for most builders, just something to note before you pull the trigger on a bunch of parts.

Why does the 289 still hold a special place in Ford enthusiasts’ hearts? Because it changed the game. It gave rise to the Mustang, helped Ford dominate racing in the mid-60s, and established a blueprint for small block performance that would evolve into the 302, 351 Windsor, and beyond. It proved you didn’t need 400-plus cubic inches to shake up the muscle car world, and it wasn’t just about raw horsepower; it was about balance, handling, and that unmistakable high-rev scream. Even with all the technology we have today, there is a timeless joy in building or driving a 289-powered car. The sound, the feel, and the history all come together to remind you that sometimes the original formula just works.

In a world full of LS swaps and modern Coyotes, the 289 stands its ground as a piece of American automotive DNA that still turns heads. From the earliest hypo versions to the everyday runners that powered families across the country, the 289 delivered a perfect blend of efficiency, power, and old-school thrill. And if you’re building a ’60s Ford, be it a Mustang, Falcon, or anything in between, there’s no question that the 289 is a rock-solid choice for a period-correct, grin-inducing driving experience. If you want an engine that’s as iconic as the cars that it came in, that’s easy to work on, and that still has parts galore floating around out there, it’s hard to beat the 289.

So there it is, that’s the story of how one seemingly modest small block paved the way for the big dogs, proving size isn’t everything and leaving its mark on automotive history in the process. Hey, you got a vintage Ford in your garage? Chances are it owes a debt of gratitude to this little V8 that could. And that’s why Ed from Bullnose Garage is talking about it today. That’s also why, even decades later, the 289 is still out there making waves and sometimes even leaving bigger engine competitors scratching their heads at the next stoplight.

And there you go, that’s everything that I know or pretend to know about the Ford 289. As always, if you learned something new today or found this video interesting, drop me a like or subscribe. That really does help me out. And you know I’ve got a lot of these Ford engine videos planned, so make sure you stick around to see what’s coming up next. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. If you think I got something wrong, let me know that too. And as always, guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time.

But she’s doing fine, tinkering away, things to shine, garage. She’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Ever been sitting at a stoplight in your seemingly mild manner V8 when some joker in a new fangled chrome plated Bluetooth infested tow mirror flexing pavement princess of over compensation pulls up and grins like he knows what’s up? You ever want to smoke that guy? Ever want to make him tinkle just a little before you do? Then you, my friend, need some cutouts.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and if you’ve never heard of exhaust cutouts before, stick around because I’m about to use my new chicken chamber here to show you how these nifty devices can let you switch your exhaust note on a dime. And hey, big shout out to Dynox for sending me two 3-inch electric exhaust cutouts to play with before I hook them up to my upcoming 408 stroker build.

Now, before we get these out of my truck, we’re going to do some bench testing. And yes, that means I’m putting my homemade chicken chamber into action. Hello! All right, so let’s start with the basics. What the heck is an exhaust cutout? Well, in simple terms, it’s a controlled bypass valve that lets your exhaust gases take a short shortcut, bypassing your mufflers and catalytic converter when you want maximum volume and minimal restriction. When closed, your truck sounds normal. Hit the switch, instant unfiltered straight pipe chaos.

Now, cutouts are nothing new. Hot rodders have been messing with them for decades. Back in the early muscle car days, guys would literally unbolt sections of their exhaust at the track to let the engine breathe better. Before that, there were even factory exhaust bypass systems on some very old performance cars, but they were usually vacuum or manually operated. These days, thankfully, we’ve got electric cutouts with remotes, meaning you don’t even have to leave the driver’s seat to uncork the beast.

And this right here, this is a 3-inch electric cutout, meaning it runs off 12-volt power and uses a butterfly valve to open and close. It’s got a wireless remote, which is a hell of a lot better than crawling under your truck with a wrench like they used to do back in the day.

So let’s break down the mechanics. Inside this cutout is a butterfly valve, the same basic idea as using your throttle body. It’s a metal plate that rotates on a central shaft. When closed, it seals against the housing—well, mostly. More on that later. And when you hit the switch, a small electric motor turns the shaft, opening the valve and giving your exhaust gases a shortcut to freedom.

Now, here’s the thing: placement matters. If your goal is to commit the audio equivalent of a war crime and turn your neighbors into bitter husks hellbent on evicting you from their lives, then yeah, go ahead and slap that cutout before the catalytic converter. Open it up, and you’re basically running headers. It’s going to be loud, raw, and depending on your local laws, probably a little illegal. But if you actually like your neighbors and at least want to keep peace, then placing the cutout after the cat but before the muffler is usually the way to go. You’ll still get a deep aggressive tone just like you don’t have a muffler on it, but it won’t be quite as ear-splitting as open headers would be.

Now, if you wonder what the actual difference is, it comes down to two very different experiences. Putting the cutout before the catalytic converter means you’ll get the maximum noise with no restriction and zero filtration. If you want your truck to be as loud and free as possible, this is the way to do it. Like I said, it’s loud, raw, and will make your neighbors question their life choices. It may also give you a negligible horsepower boost and less back pressure depending on what cats you’re running.

On the other hand, placing the cutout after the cat gives you what I call controlled aggression. You’ll still bypass the muffler, so you get a deep aggressive rumble, but the cat will take a little bit of the edge off, just enough to make it slightly less of a ‘sir, we need to have a talk’ moment when a cop pulls up behind you. You’re still running cats this way, though, so any restriction that they introduce will still be part of the system when you open these up.

For this demonstration, I’ve got my cutout placed before the cat so we can actually hear the difference when we flip the switch. But trust me, if you put one of these before the cat, you’re basically summoning demons every time you hit the gas. If you’re putting one of these in, though, it’s very probably what you’re going for anyway, so far be it for me to tell you your business.

Now, obviously, my shop vac exhaust stimulator isn’t putting out the same kind of flow as my 408 stroker will, but it still gives us a great way to visualize how the cutout works and, more importantly, how airflow and sound change when we flip the switch.

Now let’s talk real-world pros and cons of running electric cutouts because while they might seem like the perfect solution to all your exhaust tone problems, they do come with their own set of tradeoffs. First off, the pros. I mean, the biggest one is obviously instant volume control. You’re literally flipping a switch to go from quiet and respectable to full-blown hooligan mode in an instant. And there’s also a potential performance gain at high RPM since a free or flowing exhaust can reduce back pressure, though whether that translates into actual measurable horsepower really depends on your system.

And let’s be real, half the fun of having cutouts isn’t about the power; it’s about the sheer joy of knowing you can unleash absolute chaos whenever you feel like it. You’re not stuck choosing between stock sound and straight pipes; you get both. That’s the kind of flexibility that makes these things a lot of fun and so appealing.

But of course, as with most things, it’s not all sunshine and horsepower. The first major downside: they all leak eventually. It’s not a matter of if, but a matter of when. Over time, heat cycles cause expansion and contraction, carbon builds up around the valve, and sooner or later, you’ll start hearing a faint ticking or hissing sound when the valve is supposed to be shut. Now, for some people, that’s not a big deal, and for others, especially if you’re trying to keep things quiet when the cutout is closed, it can be a deal breaker, especially if this is going in your daily driver.

This is really the main issue. These butterfly valves don’t always seal perfectly, and over time, they can start to let little leaks develop. Is that the end of the world? No, but it’s something to be aware of. Routine maintenance goes a long way in keeping them from turning into an annoying rattle factory. Just a quick blast of carb cleaner now and then can help keep the buildup under control. It’s not rocket science; just part of keeping your exhaust system happy and working the way you want it to. If you never clean the valve, carbon buildup could start making it harder to close all the way or even jam it up completely. This is why it’s a good idea to cycle the valve open and closed every now and then, even if you don’t plan on using it every day, like maybe every time you start it up in your driveway or something. I mean, depending on your neighbors, letting it sit in one position for months just lets grime settle in.

And let’s not forget about the motor itself. It’s exposed to dirt, moisture, and road grime, all of which can shorten its lifespan if you’re not careful. A little dielectric grease on the connectors and some basic shielding can go a long way in keeping it working properly. And of course, there’s the big elephant in the room: legality. Depending on where you live, opening that valve on a public road might be technically illegal, especially if you’re bypassing emissions equipment or violating noise ordinances. Some areas are more lenient than others, and let’s be honest, plenty of people run these things without ever having an issue. But if your town has a Karen who dials the cops every time she hears a leaf blower, you might want to keep that in mind before installing one.

Also, as a personal request from me, the old man of Bullnose Garage, respect your communities and don’t open these up in residential areas at night, guys. Be a good steward of your horsepower. This has been a public service announcement from Bullnose Garage.

All right, let’s fire this thing up and see what happens. And away we go! All right, guys, forgive my janky setup here in my messy workbench. I’ve been doing a lot of stuff in here, so anyway, you can see I got things just kind of hooked up through a couple of testing leads to a homemade 12-volt plug that goes to my bench tester, and that runs to the cord. And there’s the control box to the Dynox cutout over here. So in my grubby little paws, I have the remote control, and it’s pretty easy. You just hit the unlock button, and you can see the motor turns this shaft right here, which turns the butterfly valve on the inside. I’ll show you that in a minute, and it’s just like that—super, super simple.

So let me get you down here so you can see the butterfly valve in action. If you can see down inside of there, and I will open it up. There we go, super easy and simple.

All right, guys, now let’s see this action with the chicken chamber. We are going to see if opening this cutout makes those chickens any louder. Now keep in mind that this is a demonstration in my garage with a shop vac and some rubber chickens, so it may not make that much of a difference, but this is the first time I’ve done it, so I’m really curious to see. Okay, here we go. Let’s start our engines. All right, I’m going to open her up. That’s incredible! Listen to that—close, open, close. You can actually hear a difference.

Well, guys, bad news: it overheated and I blew my head gasket. All right, head gasket replaced, good to go. All right, so here’s a little experiment I set up to measure the actual airflow through the system. I’ve got an anemometer here to check how fast the air is moving, kind of like a wind speed gauge, but for our exhaust setup. First, we’re measuring airflow coming out of the muffler with the cutout completely closed. You can see it’s reading right about 12.3 mph, which isn’t too bad considering it’s a shop vac and it’s all being forced through the muffler’s internal baffles.

Now for the second test, I’ve blocked off the muffler entirely, forcing all the air to exit through the cutout. You think this would be the most direct path, right? But check this out: we’re only seeing about 9.5 mph of airflow. And finally, with the muffler unblocked and the cutout wide open, we’re getting around 5.3 mph to the cutout. So what’s going on here? At first, you’d expect the cutout to flow more because it’s basically a straight pipe with a flap, but airflow isn’t just about having an open hole; it’s about how efficiently the air can move through the system.

When we block the muffler, even though all the air had to go through the cutout, the design of the cutout itself, like the butterfly valve, the angle of a T-junction, and the turbulence around the edges created more restriction than I thought. The air doesn’t like making sharp turns, and even with the valve fully open, the flap and the shaft are still in the way, causing turbulence that slows things down. Now, with both the muffler and the cutout open, the airflow has two escape routes, so it splits between them. So while the cutouts give you that aggressive sound and reduced back pressure, under real driving conditions, they’re not a magical free flow hack. Airflow dynamics are a bit more complicated than that. Still, the sound difference? Oh yeah, that’s where the cutout really shines.

Also, keep in mind this is me goofing out of my garage with a shop vac and some rubber chickens. As you can see, the exhaust path is also a completely straight line, and the cutout is right before the cat, which is right before the muffler, and it’s a dryer vent, and there’s all kinds of stuff going on here. So real-world stuff is absolutely going to be different than this, but I still thought this was a really, really neat experiment.

Now, like I said, this setup is obviously not moving as much air as a real V8, but it’s a fun way to demonstrate how exhaust routing changes sound and flow when you bypass your muffler.

All right, guys, let’s take a quick look at just what comes in the box with this 3-inch Dynox cutout. Captain, you got your instruction manual here. It’s pretty simple; it just kind of tells you about the parts and pieces that all come in here. We’ve got our gaskets. Here’s our control module with our remotes, which is super handy. You can also wire these up to be switch operated, which is what I’m going to do when I do mine. I’m not a fan of the remote; I’d rather have a switch on the dash. It’s a little bit more positive for me—just got to flick it, and it comes on. I think that’s kind of neat, but the remotes are pretty cool if you don’t have to worry about wiring up a switch. I don’t mind doing that, so I’m going to do it the hard way. But yeah, that’s pretty cool.

This is the actual butterfly valve, which opens and closes. I will open that up and show you a little bit more about that in just a minute. This is the clamp that goes between the end of the exhaust port here and the rest of the cutout. Obviously, your bolts to clamp everything together and the flange, which is what meets with this part to this part here. And then this connects up to your butterfly valve and the rest of the cutout. And then obviously, this is the meat and potatoes here, which is the actual cutout pipe itself—again, 3 inches of stainless steel glory.

So that is what comes in the box. It’s actually real simple—not a lot of complicated pieces. The remotes make it pretty easy to use, so things never go back in the box the way they came out, which is absolutely typical for all this kind of stuff.

All right, so let’s talk a little bit about this guy here. This is your butterfly valve, and this is what does all the dirty work for these cutouts. It’s what opens up and closes. It’s also the part that’s going to cause you grief down the line when it gets clogged up with carbon or other bits and pieces, or this motor gets crammed up with gunk. Now, if you look at this unit here, you can see this is a rubberized coating on this motor. It’s actually like a little rubber boot that goes on here. Actually, I think I can probably pull it off and show you what’s going on inside of there. Yeah, yeah, pretty simple—just a simple motor there. It’s got that rubber boot on it, which is nice because that’ll help keep the elements out. I think when I install these on mine, I’m going to actually add even a little bit more protection to this than what’s already on here, just to keep it clean and free of gunk and debris.

So yeah, it’s pretty simple. Here you can see the sealing surface on either side, and it just plugs right into the control box. Let me take this off of my other one here. I already got it hooked up with a remote. I will plug that in, and let’s see if my remote works. There we go, pretty simple. Actually, the neat thing with these is that you can have it partially open or partially closed; you just have to make sure that you finish closing or finish opening it. Nothing complicated about that; it’s pretty simple. The trick with these is when you close them, make sure you close them all the way because if you just barely close them, it’s like right there. Okay, so there’s open, there’s closed, and I didn’t really close it all the way. It’s not completely sealed. If you hold it a little bit longer, that little bit around at the end that closes it and seals it up pretty nice. But again, it’s really just a matter of time before this guy ends up not sealing completely just because of carbon buildup and stuff around the edges, right? So you just want to make sure that every now and then you spray some carb cleaner here on this part. Now, it’ll be a little bit tougher once you’ve got the flange on the end here, but you can still get up in there pretty easy. Just crawl up underneath the vehicle and spray some carb cleaner in there a few times just to make sure that it operates smoothly, and that will help. It will give you a little bit more life out of it before it starts to make a bunch of noise. But I really do think, no matter what quality of these things you buy, you’re going to end up getting some leaks eventually. That’s just the nature of the beast. So luckily with these units, they are real easy to disassemble, unbolt, and just swap a new one in if that does happen.

So yeah, there it is. So that’s exhaust cutouts in a nutshell, or in this case, a peanut butter jar full of screaming chickens. You know, big thanks to Dynox for sending me these. I’ll be installing these on my 408 Joker build soon, and we’ll see how they sound in a real-world test. If you’re interested in adding cutouts to your own ride, I will drop a link to these below. You guys, if you like this video, if you like screaming chickens or the thought of making some schmo in his chrome plated pickup tinkle in his undies, hit like, subscribe, and let me know in the comments. Would you ever run cutouts on your setup, or are you the kind of guy who prefers a muffler that actually muffles? As always, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. And thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. And oh no, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

was about damn time I got started on this thing right. Today I’m finally getting hands on with the classic piece of Ford V8 history, the 351 Windsor. If you’ve been following this channel for a while, you might recall that, uh, years ago I did a deep dive in 351, uh, Windsor engine. Lots of diagrams, historical tidbits, bunch of stats, uh, all that good stuff. But this time I’ve got the real deal sitting right here in front of me, ready for a tear down. Even better, I’m going to take this mild-mannered Windsor and turn it into a 408 stroker that’ll make some serious power. Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. This is going to be the start of a full series where I take a basic 351 stock Windsor, strip it down to the bare bones, check every single component, and then rebuild it from the ground up. By the end, I’ll have a stroker motor that’s ready to rock in just about any Ford project you can dream up. Mine is going to go in my, uh, ’85 F-150. From turning this block down and inspecting the crank journals to picking the right parts for the rotating assembly and finally firing it up, I’m going to cover all the steps, share all the notes, and almost certainly screw up a few things ’cause I’m no pro and that’s bound to happen. Hello! Now before I start ripping into steel and iron, I want to talk about what makes the 351 Windsor so special. Ford introduced this engine in 1969 and it quickly found a home in everything from Mustangs to trucks. The chassis DNA with a 289 and 302 small blocks, but there are a few key differences. The 351 Windsor is built on a taller deck, which translates into more stroke potential. Basically, the block is a bit beefier all around. It’s got bigger main journals, a stronger bottom end, and enough structural integrity to handle the, uh, the kind of power that I’m aiming for in a stroker build. That’s one of the big reasons enthusiasts love turning the Windsor into a 408 or even beyond. It can handle the extra displacement without acting like, uh, it’s about to explode every time you lay into the gas pedal. So let me get specific on some numbers. The original 351 Windsor typically sports a 4-inch bore and a 3.5-inch stroke. Deck height is in the 9.48 to 9.53-inch range depending on the year, which is noticeably taller than the 8.2 inches you’d see in a 289 or 302. Compression ratios vary, uh, they were all over the map depending on the year and emissions. Early on, you might have seen ratios around 10.7 to 1, while later engines dipped into the 8.0 to 9.0 to 1 range, like this one here. It’s a ’95. As for weight, fully dressed with iron heads and intake, you’re looking at about 500 to 520 lbs, so it’s not exactly a featherweight, uh, but you know, if you’re looking for that, get yourself a 289 if weight savings is your ballpark. Now, if you ever find yourself staring at a Ford small block and wondering whether you got a 351 Windsor, a 302, or a 289, here’s how to tell without playing the guessing game. So first off, casting numbers can give you a clue. They’re over here, uh, underneath on the driver’s side, uh, but they don’t spill it out for you. Take the F4TE 615A block that I have here for example. That C number doesn’t straight up scream 351 Windsor, but it does give us some breadcrumbs. The 6015 part, that’s just Ford’s generic block identifier. It doesn’t tell us the displacement, uh, but the F4TE means that it’s a 1994 truck block. Now that means it’s either a 302 or 351 W. So how do we know for sure? Well, here’s where the physical differences between those two different blocks come in. One of the easiest ways to spot a 351 over a 302 is the deck height. Uh, the 351 is noticeably taller, measuring 9.53 inches compared to the 302’s 8.26. It’s a solid 1.3-inch difference, which spreads the heads further apart and it makes the engine physically larger. Now you can’t, uh, fiddle with it to get it right where 9 and a half is, but yeah, you can see it’s pretty close right there. Uh, now if you turn to the bottom end, uh, Ford gave the 351 Windsor a much beefier foundation compared to the 302. I don’t have this apart so I can’t show you, uh, but one of the quickest tells is the main cap bolts. They’re 1/2-inch bolts on 351 versus the smaller 7/16-inch bolts on a 302. Uh, the extra strength is one of the reasons that the 351 Windsor can handle stroker builds and, uh, big power without turning into a, yeah, pile of metal shavings. I mean, not that the 302 can do that, but 351 is more robust. Uh, speaking of beefy internals, the crankshaft main journal is another great big difference. The 351 Windsor uses a hefty 3-inch main journal compared to the 302’s 2.5 inches. You know, so there you go versus there you go, right? Uh, if you got the crank out, a quick measurement will tell you exactly what you’re working with. One more subtle clue is the oil filter boss, uh, location on 351 Windsor. The oil filter mount sits slightly higher on the block than it does on the 302. Now this is not super easy to spot, especially when the engine is inside of a bay, uh, unless you got them both side by side sitting out. But if you want to look for that, it’s just another piece of the puzzle. Uh, so you know, the next time you’re thinking through a swap met or picking through a junkyard, uh, keep those checks in mind. Uh, now if you’re looking at a small block Ford, uh, installed in an engine bay from the front and trying to decide if it’s a 351 Windsor or just another 302, my go-to way, what I think is the easiest, uh, and it’s a quick way to tell at a glance is to check the area around the distributor mount. Um, I’ll get you a closeup here in a second, but, uh, on a 289 or 302, the pad the distributor mounts, uh, is almost flush with the block. On a 351, there’s almost an extra inch of, uh, material here. Uh, it’s much visibly taller. It’s due to the deck height and the taller deck is what gives the 351 Windsor its extra stroke and displacement. So it’s the quick visual indicator, this deck height here around the distributor, uh, to tell if you’re looking at, uh, a 351 or a 302 if the engine is sitting inside of a, of an engine bay, especially if it’s fully dressed. So, uh, while I got the engine still together, although it won’t be for long, there’s a few other things that, uh, I want to point out here before I start tearing this thing down completely. First off, we’ll take a look at the oil pan. Now I’ll be sure to show you the pickup tube and discuss how it affects oil delivery once I’ve got all this stuff here off. Still so much grime. So another thing I want to show you real quick while the engine’s still together is that I still have the, uh, stock exhaust manifolds on. Now they’re fine for a stock build for the most part, but, uh, you know, they’re definitely not going to be okay for a 408 stroker. Now I’ve left these on here because I didn’t want critters and stuff getting in the open holes while I was sitting outside, but now that it’s in my garage, I can, uh, take those off. I’m not doing that right now, but I am going to show you what I’m replacing them with to give you an idea of the difference. So to do that, let me turn this thing back around. Now this thing is definitely top-heavy, so, uh, and it is a beast, so I got to have a little bit of a cheater bar here to, uh, see if I can get this thing turned around. Here we go. H! All right, so here you can see the, uh, stock exhaust header. Let me, uh, try you down a little bit so you can get a better, a little bit clearer shot. And here is the new one that’s going to go on. These are long tube headers. I got them, uh, actually I got them for free from, uh, DynoX, so they provided those for me. I’ve got a video on these, um, where I’ll show you what these are all about. But yeah, man, that’s going to, that’s going to look pretty sweet and sound pretty sweet. Yeah, we can look forward to getting those on. And lastly, while we’re here and this thing is still together, you can take a look at the stock intake manifold up here. Uh, you know what? Actually, let me get, uh, this plate off the top here and I’ll show you what I’m talking about. All right, now that I’ve got the, uh, plate off the top, we could talk about this, uh, stock intake manifold. Now there’s a couple things going on here, um, that need to be addressed as far as my build is concerned. First, you know, these documents are okay for low-end grunt, um, and stock applications, but for a 408 stroker build, uh, they just don’t flow enough air. So I’ll be definitely looking at some aftermarket intakes for this. And, uh, also because this one is a fuel injected intake, not a carbureted intake, um, I will be swapping this to a carbureted engine. Uh, and you guys may go, oh my God, carbureted engine, why would you ever do that? Fuel injection is so much better and more reliable and all this other kind of stuff that people end up doing. Uh, so a couple things. One, uh, I’ve never messed with carburetors before, and so I don’t have that, that little bit of jadedness that some of the carburetor guys have. Uh, and I need to get that. I really need to, to figure out, I need to internalize why carburetors are so horrible, right? So I want to build my engine with a carburetor. I also really like the old school feel of that, and I like the old school look. So if I do get tired of the carburetor, uh, even though I’ve got a carbureted intake, I’ll just get myself like a sniper EFI or something like that that looks like a carburetor, uh, still gives you that old school look, but you, it will work with the intake that I’ve got, but still gives me the, uh, the modern sort of drivability and reliability of an EFI setup. So that’s my plan there. So once I got everything taken apart, disassembled, I’m going to dedicate an entire episode to walking through each of these parts so I can show you exactly what it does and why it’s important. I’ll lay out the crank, rods, pistons, heads, and anything else that I’ve yanked off this block right here, uh, and I’ll put them on a bench and I’ll give you a crash course on small block Ford anatomy. Honestly, it’s going to help me brush up on my own knowledge too because, you know, there’s nothing like pointing at each component and telling you exactly what it does and figuring out how it all comes together to, uh, keep your mind on track. That’ll be good for me before I, uh, build the new engine too, so we’re going to do that. Uh, I mean, Lord knows I need as much help as I can get. If you’re wondering why I picked a 351 Windsor for a project like this, one, you’re obviously not a subscriber to the channel, and two, let me sum it up. Uh, there’s a ton of them out there, it’s durable, and the aftermarket part support is insane. You know, there’s a lot of options for intakes, exhausts, uh, man, all kinds of different stroker kits and just pretty much whatever you’re looking for. So as I’m going along, I’m also going to chat about the history of the Windsor, uh, ’cause it’s really interesting and that’s part of the fun for me. I really like digging into that stuff. So now here’s the part that I’m going to get yelled at for in the next episode. I’m going to start tearing this thing down. Oh my God, Ed, all you ever do is flap your gums! I know, right? I’ve been waiting on this for four years, but I want to do it right and take it slow, so I’m taking it one episode at a time. Next time, I promise I talk to you about this engine, I will be taking it apart. I’m going to show you exactly how I pull the heads, yank the cam, and see if there’s any hidden damage lurking down into this block, right? I’m going to measure the bores to see how much I need to overbore for my stroker pistons. Now hopefully I’ll get lucky and this thing is basically still stock. I think it is, and if it is, then I should probably only have to go 30 over, but you never know. Maybe I won’t, and that’s part of the adventure. So once I know the status, I’ll pick out a nice stroker kit that matches my goal, something that’ll give me a nice bump in torque and horsepower, get me up to 408, and, uh, you know, something that won’t turn this engine into a ticking time bomb. Excuse me, uh, so that’s the plan and I can’t wait to get my hands dirty. If you love classic small block Fords or just enjoy watching some dude in his garage try not to drop a cylinder.

Head on his foot then, uh, this series is definitely going to be for you. I, I, I, I’m designing this series so that some guy like me, who’s never done this before, can start from episode one and work all the way through. By the end, should know everything they got to know to build the same kind of engine that I’m building here. And that’s, guys, that’s why I’m taking it slow. I know that, uh, you four guys that have built before probably look at this going, oh my gosh, this guy is so slow, it’s like watching molasses go uphill. But you’re probably not who this series is for. But you might find it interesting, so I hope that you do.

So guys, do myself and yourself a favor and make sure that you’re subscribed and have those notifications turned on because next time, I swear to you that you see this engine, I will be tearing it apart to see what’s salvageable and set the stage for the 408 stroker build. Um, it’s going to be a lot of work. It’s going to be a lot of head scratching for me ’cause I’ve never done it before. Um, it’s a big, uh, big task and, uh, I’m sure there’ll be a little bit more than just a little bit of cussing under my breath. Um, but I’m looking forward to it.

You know, let me know if you guys have done a stroker engine yourself and how it went. What was a dream come true or a frustrating odyssey of stripped bolts and missing gaskets? Because it is intimidating for a first timer, uh, but I want to hear about it. If you have any other questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, as always, stick them below. Thanks again for watching and we will see you next time.

She’s rough around the edges but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching, we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching, we will see you next time.

You know guys, sometimes doing YouTube is hard, and it takes a lot of time to make videos and a lot of time to sit down and do the research and write the scripts and do all this stuff. So I thought this week I’d try to catch up a little bit, just do a real quick simple video about my plans for the Bullnose. You know, I haven’t done one of those in a while, and that way you guys can kind of see what the plans for the Bullnose are going to be. So, uh, oh, I, uh, yeah, you already know the plans for this Bullnose. I mean, the plan for this Bullnose. Hello, hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and meet Bullnose number two. She’s a 1982 Ford Bronco. Just picked her up this weekend from my actual friend that I’ve got in another town over. He saw my channel, went, ‘Hey, I got a Bullnose rotting out in my yard. You want to come pick her up and add her to your list of projects?’ I thought, ‘Ah, you know what? Why not? Because one Bullnose is never enough, right? Mongo’s Garage, mm, I’m coming for you. I got two now!’ Actually, no, I will never have as many Bullnoses as those dudes have. That is crazy. Anyway, I just thought I would introduce you and let you take a look and talk a little bit about what my plans are.

So this old girl is much rougher than my ’85, but one thing I love about her is that she has a manual transmission. Of course, being a Bronco, she’s a 4×4. She’s pretty rough, but you know, that’s okay because I’m going to cut my teeth on my ’85 and learn my way in and out of these things really, really well, and then we will start restoring this girl right here. Now, as you can see, she does have a little bit of rust coming in down through here and some back over here. My guess is, I’m not sure if you can see that from the camera. I guess you can. And so my guess is that the guy who the previous owner had was doing some mudding and some off-roading and stuff, and those tend to be the places where the mud and the grime and the stuff gets caught up in the fender wells and up inside of here. And so that’s where a lot of dirt and debris and G got caught up in there. As a matter of fact, I can see some, um, already in there. See if I can feel the dust coming out of there. Dust and dirt with grunge and stuff in there. You can actually see where there’s some rocks and dirt caught up inside of there. So my guess is that that stuff got wet and just stayed wet for a while, packed up in there, and that’s where that rust happens.

You got the same thing over by the tailgate. You can see pretty clearly down here on the bottom there. So this tailgate is pretty much roached. I could probably fix this, I guess, but I don’t think I’m going to. They make repop tailgates for these, so I’ll probably just go ahead and do that. The rear window, unfortunately, doesn’t go up and down. I think that’s probably because the motor is busted. So the rear window has been down for a long time, and so that’s allowed the elements to get in here. So the inside of this, especially in the back, is pretty well roached out. But you know, it wouldn’t be a project if it was easy. So my current plan is to take the tailgate off, replace it with a new one. Probably I’ll cut some panels out of this and use them to fill in some of the body areas and the other parts of the truck that are a little bit rusted out. Teach myself how to weld body panels and do some fill and that kind of stuff, just kind of make it look nice. This one, the plan is not to be a show truck like my other truck is. This one is actually going to be something a little bit different.

So my plan for this truck is to be a desert crawler. We’re out here in the desert Southwest. There’s a lot of trails and mountains and stuff here, so I figure I could, uh, you know, it’s kind of pretty much already set for it, right? That’s what a Bronco is. So, uh, I’m not going to go like full pre-run or anything, but just, you know, give it like maybe a 4-inch lift with a 1-inch body lift, and I’ll put some bigger tires on it. You know, it’s already got the 49 in the rear, and it’s got a J44 TTB in the front. And I think, uh, you know, if I just beef up the components for both of those, that should give me what I need to be able to go out and do some serious desert crawling around here. You know, just kind of clean it up and clean up the rust and make sure that it runs right. Now, it’s not roadworthy, unfortunately. Now, it does run, and it actually runs like a top. It’s got an inline six in it, which is awesome, and I think the inline six in this thing runs almost as good as the inline six in my ’85. Now, of course, you guys that are paying attention to my channel all the time know that I’m pulling the inline six out of the ’85 and putting a 351 Windsor in and stroking it to 408. That is not what’s happening to this thing. You guys don’t have to worry. This truck is keeping the inline six. I probably will pull the inline six out of this and do some refreshing on it. I may decide to do some mods to it. You know, there’s some talk in my channel comments about, you know, did you see this where they turboed inline sixes and all this stuff? You know, I might look into some of that stuff. I don’t know that I have the chops for a project like that yet, but you know, by the time I get done building my Windsor and stuff, maybe I’ll feel more comfortable around that stuff, so I might give it a try. Anyway, but regardless, the inline six in this thing is a puller. It’s a workhorse. It got me up on the trailer no problem. There’s some fuel issues, so you have to actually, uh, here, you know what? I’ll show you. There we go. Ah, all right, so there we go. There’s the old inline six in there, and right now the only way I can get it to run is to throw some fuel in a water bottle like this and spray some fuel down in the carb, and then she’ll run. And she runs really, really good. The inline six in this purrs like a kitten, so I’m really happy about that. But, um, I’m not sure what’s going on with the fuel line. I’m not sure why it can’t pull fuel from the fuel tank. I got to look into that. The brakes are basically shot. When we dropped it back off the trailer, I had to actually put it in gear and pop the clutch to make sure that it didn’t roll back into my wall over here. So, uh, yeah, the brakes are pretty much shot. I got to do a complete brake job. I’ve already got a video series on my complete brake job on the other truck, so I won’t bore you with doing that whole thing again. But at least I know what I’m doing there, so I’ll do that. It needs new parking brake. Yeah, obviously. I mean, there’s no, uh, coating in it. There’s, uh, I don’t have any idea what the condition of the oil is. Um, you know, I got to look at all that stuff. But the engine itself runs really well. And you know, my thought was that even a worst-case scenario, the engine in this turned out to not run very well, I can always pull the 300 six out of my other truck and pop it in here and use that. But I don’t think I’m going to have to. I think I can just use the 300 that’s in here, and we’ll see. You know, I’ll get them both out at some point and see which one I want to use for my rebuild.

But yeah, so if you were paying attention to the engine when I had it closer up here, one thing you’ll notice that this truck does not have is air conditioning. And if you’ve watched a couple of my videos before, you know that I specifically bought my other truck because it has air conditioning and because it’s so damn hot down here in the Southwest when it gets to be in the summer. So, uh, that’s kind of okay for this build. Again, this is not going to be an around-town cruiser, really. It’s going to be mostly going out in the desert and having fun. So most of the time, I think this will have windows down, top off, that kind of stuff. But, uh, I still think I want to put AC in it, so I may make a video series about putting AC in a non-AC Bullnose. Um, because that’s, you know, I think that’s worth the content. And I actually do have a dash already from an AC Bullnose truck that I might be able to use as parts and pieces for this. I don’t know how hard that’ll be. I haven’t actually done the research to see how hard it’ll be to put an AC in a non-AC truck, but there are kits that you can use that’ll do that even if you don’t use the factory AC. So, um, yeah, we’ll see how that goes.

All right guys, here we are underneath the Bronco, and you can get a good look at what’s going on down here. There’s the Dana 44 front TTB, and, uh, let’s see, this, believe it or not, is an NP435 transmission. This is the same manual transmission that I got in the ’85. Um, with these trucks for a manual, it’s either going to be a T18 or an NP435, and you can tell this was an NP435 because it’s got the PTO cover on the passenger side right there. You can also see the drain plug is indicative of an NP435 too. So, uh, yeah, same transmission, and that transmission is going to stay in here because NP435 is basically bulletproof, and it’s perfect for a desert runner, desert crawler like I want to build here. So, uh, yeah, as long as it shifts well, which I think it seems to so far, but I haven’t had it out on the road to test it. But yeah, so we’re definitely going to keep that. And as you can see, there’s not really a lot of rust. There’s some surface rust on the frame, nothing real bad. There is some rust there under the seat pan. I think that happens quite a bit in these trucks, so I’ll have to cut that out, put some rust inhibitor or converter on there, and eventually cut that out and probably weld a little pan or something in there to make sure that doesn’t get any worse, make sure it can support my amper frame while I’m in the truck. And then, uh, yeah, so scoot back here. All right, scooting back just a little bit, you can see the transfer case here. I believe it’s an NP205, although I’m not 100% sure. I got to check this tag here and double check, but, uh, I think that’s going to be what it is. Believe it or not, guys, I was wrong. It’s actually a Borg Warner 1345, not a New Process 205 transfer case. Both of those transfer cases were used in this era of Bullnose Broncos, so I wasn’t sure which one it was, and I took a stab, and I was wrong. They’re both really good transfer cases. They’re both pretty similar. The Borg Warner’s got a chain drive, and the NP205’s got a gear drive. I’ll do another video about the differences in the different transfer case options that there are, but I think I’m probably going to go ahead and stick with what I’ve got. I’ll do a service on it and make sure that it runs okay. But, uh, yeah, so it’s a Borg Warner 1345. And then, uh, yeah, you can see underneath here to the back, got the famous Ford 9 inch, which I’m super excited about. It’s not an end case, though I wouldn’t expect it to be an ’82 Bronco. So, uh, but it should still do perfectly for what I want. Beef it up a little bit, put some high spline axles in there and, you know, a locker and some stuff, and we’ll be good to go there. And then, yeah, the driver’s side of the body here doesn’t look too bad. Um, so I think I’m in good shape. There’s some surface rust on the cross member and the frame and just in general, but there’s no rot through. It’s just surface stuff. So, man, got rust falling on me. Uh, but hey, you know, that’s part of the job. So, yeah, um, I’m super happy with it. I’m looking forward to digging into this thing and see what we can make out of it.

All right guys, well then, these are the twin sisters of Bullnose Garage. They’re not identical, just like my other twin girls aren’t identical, but they’re both the same vintage, and one’s an ’85 F150 and one’s an ’82 Bronco. Um, yeah, I’m super, super thrilled of them both. Can’t wait to get them both on the road and going. This one here will obviously get done first. Uh, this is one that I put the new engine in, the 408 that’s going to go in here. Uh, this one has got a lot of work yet to do. I got to do some body work and, uh, obviously work on the engine fueling system, brakes, all that stuff. The fiberglass cab’s got some issues. Some of the fiberglass is kind of getting worn down. I got to, uh, probably coat that and put a coat of paint on it and stuff. But you know what? I’m going to bring you guys along for all that stuff. Uh, you know, this whole channel, everything’s about me cutting my teeth and getting some experience on some of the stuff that I don’t really know that much about. So, uh, yeah, looking forward to getting both these girls fixed up and ready to go. And if you want to be along for the ride, make sure you like and subscribe. I really appreciate that. And like I said, I got that 408 that I’m getting ready to build that’s coming up on the channel. So if you want to see what I’m doing there, make sure you subscribe and, uh, you know, ring the bell and keep in touch with all that stuff. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, C interet ramblings, stick them below. And thanks again so much for watching, guys. We will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Take her away, getting things to shine. That Bullnose Garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

You know, my old grandpa always used to say, always use the right tool for the job. Ain’t nobody got time for that. I say use whatever works. Rock tool for the job. Okay, Boomer.

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And don’t, don’t be that guy. If you’ve ever tried removing a harmonic balancer with a chisel or peeling off a gasket with a butter knife, you’re in the right place. Today, we’ll talk about the real tools that you need to break an engine down and put it back together without breaking your knuckles or your spirit. Sure, buying the right stuff might cost a bit more up front, but trust me, it’ll save your hairline and your sanity in the long run. So stick around, and by the end of this video, you’ll have a rock solid grasp of which tools truly matter, which ones you could probably live without, and which ones belong in the hands of a professional machine shop. Oh, uh, sorry, the anemometer and rubber chickens are for a different video.

Hello! All right, let’s get right into it with a couple of the big and obvious ones. First off, the engine hoist. F.S. sites say engine tear down like a V8 or inline 6 dangling midair on a sturdy chain in your garage. If you’re pulling the block out of your car or truck, this tool is a no-brainer. Perfect 10 out of 10 on the must-have scale. Some call it a cherry picker, but whatever you decide to call it, it’s all about heavy lifting without wrecking your back or your garage floor. Basic models run between $100 and $150, great for lighter engines or occasional use. For larger engines or frequent jobs, heavy-duty hydraulic hoists cost uh, $200 to $400. Brands like Torin or this Pittsburgh here from Harbor Freight offer reliable options that balance quality and price. You know, mechanics once rigged rope and pulley setups in barn rafters for engine lifts. Thankfully, we got hydraulics on our side today. Just make sure your hoist has the capacity for your engine and your lifting points are solid. Nobody wants a swan diving engine mid-tear down. Look for features like adjustable booms and stainless steel hooks. Uh, they make tear downs smoother and safer. Additionally, a $40 load leveler is a must for uh, big lifts. Also consider portability. Welded or folding booms make storage much easier. Prices vary with these features, so think about what you need most in your setup before you buy.

Next up, the engine stand. Once your engine’s hoisted, you need a solid perch to tear it down. An engine stand is like a mechanical easel, letting you rotate the block to access every single nook and cranny. This gets a 9 out of 10. It’s crucial for a rebuild. After all, you’re not holding that block in your lap. Basic engine stands run between $50 and $100, fine for lighter engines or tight budgets. For bigger blocks or frequent use, heavy-duty models range from $150 to $250. A folding four-point stand like this $2 Pittsburgh model here uh, beats a three-point design for stability and folds for easier storage. Engine stands offer various mounting patterns or even adjustable mounts, uh, like this one to fit different blocks. Match the stand to your engine’s mounting points to avoid compatibility issues. Look for features like adjustable clamps, uh, 360° rotation, and foldable bases to keep things stable while you work. One common mistake with engine stands is mismatching your stand, your engine’s weight, or mounting pattern. A flimsy stand risks an expensive, painful mess. Check your weight capacity and compatibility before buying, and also ensure that the stand is balanced and secure to avoid accidents during a rebuild.

All right, next up we have a silicone tool tray set. Now this might not be the flash tool, but it’s key for keeping nuts, bolts, and tiny doodads organized during a tear down. It’s a 5 out of 10. Not critical, but it’ll save you headaches and time hunting for that elusive bolt. The basic sets run from $15 to $30, great for smaller projects, and for more compartments and better heat resistance, expect to spend $40 to $60. Silicone trays offer flexibility, non-slip grip, and easy cleaning. Just rinse them off, and they’re ready for the next job. They stay put wherever you put them, whether it’s on a cold engine block or something warmer. You know, alternatives like magnetic work trays are okay for ferrous hardware, and even a plastic lunch container can do it in a pinch. The silicone trays win, uh, they’re heat resistant and won’t scratch painted surfaces. They handle extreme heat, so if you accidentally set it on a really hot manifold, you don’t have to worry about it. And bonus, they double as pet food bowls. Just make sure you wash them first.

Next up is an oil drip mat or tray. It’s an unsung hero for keeping your garage all slick-free. It’s a 4 out of 10. You can skip it if you’re outside or you don’t mind a mess, but in a proper garage setup, it’s really a sanity saver, and it might even save your relationship. Oil drip mats come in various sizes and materials. Uh, basic rubber or PVC match up between $20 and $40, while heavy-duty options, uh, like bigger trays or ones that have raised edges or layered designs cost between $50 and $100. Cheaper mats may not last with frequent heavy spills, so spending more up front on a volume mat can save money and hassle long term. You know, pros use similar mats or large drip pans to stay tidy and safe. A clean floor not only looks better but prevents slips and trips. An organized workspace makes tear downs more efficient. Focus on the job, not the mess.

Next up is a harmonic balancer puller. For full engine tear down, you likely need to remove the balancer and excess timing components. This tool gets us 7 out of 10. A three-jaw puller can work in a pinch, but a dedicated balancer puller saves you hassle and prevents damage. It also works as a steering wheel puller and handles some other automotive pulleys. The harmonic balancer absorbs engine vibrations. Its critical role early engineers found crankshafts without dampers often snapped under stress, causing catastrophic failure. So it’s not just a fancy pulley; it keeps your engine smooth and quiet. Balancer pullers like this one range from $30 to $80 depending on quality and the included adapters. Basic sets suit smaller engines or occasional use, while comprehensive kits with multiple adapters can top $100. Sometimes a three-jaw puller works in a pinch, like I said, but it risks cracking or warping the balancer. If you’re doing multiple rebuilds or tackling different engines, invest in a dedicated puller and never use a chisel.

And speaking of three-jaw pullers, that’s next on our list. While a harmonic balancer puller is job-specific, a three-jaw puller is a versatile go-to for tasks like pulling stubborn pulley gears or even steering racks. This gets a 5 out of 10. It’s not critical for an engine rebuild if you’ve got specialized tools especially, but it is a handy backup for unexpected tasks. Three-jaw pullers start uh, between $15 and $30. More durable models with better grips and higher capacity can run between $40 and $80. The three-jaw puller has a long legacy. Blacksmiths and millers used similar designs on steam engines, making you part of a centuries-old tradition. Slipping or marring surfaces is a common issue with the jaws, so ensure a firm, even grip before cranking and use penetrating oil to loosen the stubborn parts. Patience is key; rushing risks damage.

Next up is a carbide scraper. Uh, when stripping gasket sealant or stubborn carbon, this tool is your best friend. This gets a 6 out of 10. Big upgrade from the chisel and butter knife. It’s not essential for occasional maintenance, but for serious rebuilds, it saves frustration and ensures precision. Carbide scrapers come in various shapes and sizes. Basic handheld models like this one here run between $10 and $20. For heavy-duty jobs, multi-tool scrapers or sets with versatile blade shapes cost between $25 and $50. These tools are incredibly durable, staying sharp for longer than steel. Less sharpening, more working. Some models even offer replaceable blades, saving you from buying new tools. Carbide’s toughness and heat resistance make it a go-to for industrial metal aids. If it handles that stress, baked-on gaskets, that’s no problem. Scraping too aggressively with a carbide scraper can gouge metal surfaces, so use a light touch, keep a consistent angle, and make gentle passes to avoid damage.

Meet plastic gauge, a simple but vital tool for engine assembly. When rebuilding an engine, checking bearing clearances is critical for longevity and smooth operation. Plastic gauge makes it easy. Place a waxy strip between the bearing and the journal, torque down to spec, and measure the squished strip to check clearance. This earns an 8 out of 10. Accurate bearing clearance is non-negotiable for a reliable engine build. Plastic gauge is simple, but it comes in variations. Different colors measure specific tolerances. Green and red are most useful for most builds. Packs of single-use strips cost between $10 to $20 and last several projects, while larger kits range from $25 to $40. Plastic gauge is simple to use: just place, torque, and measure. But for accurate results, ensure both surfaces are spotless, as dirt or debris can skew your measurements. Remember, plastic gauge is single-use, so handle it carefully to avoid waste. Since the ’40s, plastic gauge has revolutionized bearing clearance checks. Before it, mechanics relied on cumbersome, less accurate methods. This simple strip brought precision to hobbyists and pros alike. One common mistake with this stuff is just taking inaccurate measurements. Follow the instructions, apply the strip evenly, torque to spec, and measure precisely. Rushing can lead to misleading readings and compromise engine performance.

Next up is a set of feeler gauges. Whether you’re setting valve lash, checking spark plug gaps, or verifying type tolerances, this tool is a must-have. This gets a 7 out of 10. It’s not an everyday tool, but crucial for precise measurements that ensure engine performance and longevity. A good set prevents misfires and uneven wear. Basic sets with 10 to 20 strips cost between $10 and $25. It’s great for hobbyists. Larger sets with 50-plus strips or digital options range from $30 bucks to $60 bucks. Slip gauges date back to the late 1800s, but car enthusiasts adopted them for spark plugs and valve clearance checks. Quality feeler gauges are precise and durable. Stainless or high-carbon steel resists bending and wear. Some advanced sets include color coding or label thicknesses for a quicker selection. A common pitfall with these is bending them or mixing up the strips. Dirty or warped gauges can lead to incorrect measurements and engine issues, so handle them carefully, store them properly, and inspect each strip before you use it.

Next up, we have a dial bore gauge. For serious engine rebuilders, it’s essential for measuring the cylinder or bearing bores accurately. This earns a 9 out of 10. Skipping it risks building an engine with out-of-spec cylinders, leading to poor compression or excessive wear. Precision here is the difference between reliable performance and constant headaches. Dial indicators trace back to 19th-century clock making, where precision tools for watch gears found a new life measuring engine cylinders. Dial bore gauges come in various styles. Basic single dial models run between $40 to $100, and for more versatility, dual dial or digital gauges can cost between $100 and $200. Advanced models feature adjustable bases and magnified dials for easier reading, and height space calibration kits ensure accuracy over multiple projects. Compact designs with protective cases add portability and durability. Calibration with these is a common pitfall. Always zero the gauge with a known standard before you use it, and measure straight across the bore, not at an angle to avoid distorted readings. Clean and store the gauge properly to maintain accuracy and extend its life.

Next up, straight edge, which I can warpage on cylinder heads or surfaces. This tool is indispensable. This one earns a 6 out of 10. It’s not as critical as an engine hoist or a torque wrench, but…

It’s essential for ensuring flat components and a smooth rebuild. Aluminum straight edges like this one here are lightweight, rust resistant, and less fatiguing for frequent use. They’re ideal for tight spaces. They’re also cheaper, but they can dent or scratch more easily, uh, which can affect the precision. Aluminum’s lower rigidity may limit its accuracy for really precise measurements. Steel straight edges are rigid and durable, perfect for precise measurements and larger components where even very slight warping matters. However, they’re much heavier, they’re harder to handle in tight spaces, and they’re prone to rust if you don’t maintain them right. Prices for these vary. Aluminum straight edges run between 10 and 50 bucks, while steel models cost between 15 and 60 bucks. Dropping or dinging a straight edge, especially steel ones, can ruin their precision, so make sure you handle them carefully, keep them clean to avoid false readings, and store them properly. Look for smooth edges, precise markings, and protective coatings to ensure accuracy and durability. You know, the pros use granite slabs for unparalleled accuracy, but for us mortals, a straight edge is going to work just fine.

Next up, we’ve got a magnetic base dial indicator. This tool is a must for serious rebuilders measuring crankshaft end play, camshaft runout, and other precise movements. It earns a six out of ten. It’s not as critical as an engine hoist or torque wrench, but it’s vital for precise component movement. The magnetic base keeps the dial indicator steady, letting you move components and measure without, uh, constant repositioning. Basic models like this one here cost between 30 to 60 bucks, while more precise, durable options can run between 70 to 150. One thing you want to look for is making sure that you, uh, secure the base on a clean surface to always get a good accurate reading. Always clean and degrease everything first. Also, like with bore gauges, you gotta zero the gauge before you start measuring.

Next, we’ve got a vacuum pressure gauge kit. Now, this kit is essential for a basic teardown, but it’s invaluable for diagnosing leaks or checking seals post-rebuild. This turns a five out of ten. It’s not a must for every rebuild, but it can save you from frustrating troubleshooting by measuring vacuum levels accurately. Basic kits like this one with a single gauge and just some adapters cost between 20 and 40 bucks. It’s great for beginners or tight budgets. Comprehensive kits with multiple gauges, adapters, and digital displays can range from 50 to 100. A good vacuum gauge kit detects leaks and verifies engine seal integrity. Accessories like hoses and fittings make connecting to engine ports much easier. Folks that are new to this can feel overwhelmed by all the readings, so learn your engine’s normal vacuum range before testing. This helps spot leaks or deviations quickly.

Next up is a vacuum leakdown tester. Now, this isn’t the same thing as the vacuum pressure gauge kit, but it is a cousin. It’s indispensable for deep engine diagnostics post-rebuild. This earns a seven out of ten. Not an everyday tool, but it’s crucial for checking valves, piston rings, and cylinder seals to ensure smooth, efficient operation. Vacuum leakdown tests originated in aviation, where pilots tested for even the smallest leaks to ensure engine reliability at altitude. This precision approach eventually found its way into automotive diagnostics, and that enhances engine rebuild reliability. Uh, kits like this, uh, generally go between 50 and 100, and advanced kits with more digital readouts or, yeah, fancy test ports run between 150 to 300. Look for models with digital displays for easier reading and multiple adapters for various different types of engines. Advanced kits with built-in pumps or integrated gauges can streamline testing and ensure your compressor provides consistent pressure. Weak compressors can skew the readings and the diagnostics.

Next up is a mini spring tester. First-time builders might overlook this tool, but it’s handy for spotting weak or mismatched valve springs. This turns a four out of ten. It’s not essential for every rebuild, but measuring seat and open pressure offers insights into your valve train’s balance and prevents valve float, especially at high RPMs. Many spring testers are straightforward and affordable, and drag racers often test and swap valve springs mid-season to prevent valve float and push their engines to the limit. This cheap insurance enhances performance and extends engine life by keeping the valve train balanced under extreme conditions. Common issues with these include incorrect setup or measuring at the wrong heights, which can skew your results. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and measure precisely. If you’re working with a brand new matched set of springs, then you might not need this tool since brand new matched sets of springs are supposed to be matched and designed to work together harmoniously right out of the box. But it might be worth checking them anyway, especially if you’ve got a few thousand going into your build. It’s kind of cheap insurance.

Next up, valve spring compressor. This tool is crucial for removing and installing valve springs during a teardown or a rebuild. This earns an eight out of ten. Well, it’s not as universally essential as an engine hoist or a torque wrench, it’s indispensable for safely handling valve springs. Cat clamp style compressors like this one are widely available. Basic models cost between 20 and 40 bucks. It’s great for smaller engines or occasional use. For larger engines or frequent jobs, robust models priced 50 to 80 bucks offer better durability and ease of use. These tools adapt to various spring sizes, but maneuvering in tight cylinder head pockets can be tricky. Shade tree mechanics want to use sockets and clamps to compress springs. It’s cumbersome and way less safe. Modern cat clamp compressors are safer, more efficient, and prevent parts from flying across your garage. A common issue with these is slipping off the retainer, which can send keepers flying, so always secure the compressor properly before you tighten it down and apply gradual pressure to avoid slip-ups.

Next up is a piston ring filer. For engines with new rings, this tool is essential for ensuring everything is up to spec. This turns a seven out of ten. Not a top priority, the precise gap filing significantly boosts engine performance and longevity. Basic handheld models like this one here cost 20 to 25 bucks. More durable models with adjustable features for different ring sizes can run between 30 and 60. Choose a model with a stable grip for consistent, accurate filing. Failing to engage sometimes can, uh, help verify the end gap as you work, avoiding constant stops to measure. Hand filing rings with a small file used to mean guessing angles and hoping for the best. Well, you can still do that, I’d recommend against it. Precision piston ring filers eliminate the guesswork, improving reliability, performance, and consistency in modern engine builds. Avoid removing too much material or filing at the wrong angle, which can harm compression and increase wear. File gradually, measure frequently, and maintain consistency to prevent uneven gaps.

Up next, piston ring pliers. Never snap a ring trying to do it by hand. Piston ring pliers prevent that heartbreak. This runs a six out of ten. Not as critical as an engine hoist or torque wrench, but it does make installing piston rings smoother and less stressful. Piston ring pliers haven’t changed much in decades. They still use the same scissor action as they always have. Basic manual models can cost between 10 and 20 bucks, while more robust options with adjustable jaws or locking mechanisms can range from 25 to 40. Advanced pliers with locking mechanisms maintain expansion without manual pressure, which makes multiple ring installations easier and less tiring. Avoid yanking too hard, especially if you’re new to the tool. Overzealous handling can bend or crack rings, which causes delays and engine issues. Let the pliers do the work, apply steady pressure, and stay within the ring’s natural flex. Take your time to ensure each ring is installed correctly.

Up next, we have a ring compressor, specifically the band style type popular among engine builders. This turns an eight out of ten. It’s essential for safely installing piston rings without damaging them or the cylinder walls. Ring compressors come in two types. Basically, you got the band style and then there’s a tapered sleeve. These band style compressors are universal and versatile, and they cost between 15 to 40 bucks. Tapered sleeves, which are favored in speed and race shops, are more specialized and they cost between 50 to 100 dollars or more. Tapered compressors are common in race shops for speed, but adjustable band compressors are the go-to for enthusiasts. Their flexibility suits various engine types, making high-quality rebuilding accessible to just about everybody. Band style compressors clamp around the piston, letting you gently tap it into the bore while protecting the rings. Look for adjustable bands, secure locking mechanisms, and features like protective coatings or rubber grips to prevent cylinder wall scratches. One common mistake with these is not snugging the compressor enough, which can cause a ring to pop out and scratch a cylinder wall. That’s a bad day. Secure the compressor tightly, double-check the ring orientation, and use steady taps to maintain control. Precision and patience are key to successful installation.

Next up is a torque wrench, easily one of the most essential tools in your engine rebuild arsenal. I’m giving this a perfect ten out of ten because tightening fasteners to the proper specs is critical for engine integrity and performance. Whether you’re working on rod bolts, main caps, or cylinder heads, a reliable torque wrench ensures precision and prevents catastrophic failures. There are a few different types to consider, each with its own strengths. Beam torque wrenches are simple, affordable, and durable. They use a pointer and a scale to show torque, but they require careful reading and can be less precise at higher levels. Click wrenches like this one here are popular because they’re accurate and easy to use. You hear a distinct click when you hit the right torque, so there’s no need to keep an eye on the scale. Digital torque wrenches go a step further with features like LCD displays, memory storage, and even Bluetooth tracking. They’re precise and convenient, making them a favorite if you want tech in your toolbox. Finally, my personal favorite, split beam wrenches combine the durability of beam wrenches with the accuracy of a click wrench. They’re built to handle heavy use, making them perfect for serious rebuilders. Pricing varies depending on the type. Beam wrenches are the most budget-friendly at 15 bucks to 40 bucks. Click wrenches run between 30 to 100 bucks, while digital wrenches start at 70 and can exceed 200. Each split beam wrench typically costs 50 to 150 and offers excellent durability and precision. When choosing a torque wrench, accuracy and reliability are key. One thing to avoid is using your torque wrench as a breaker bar. It’s a surefire way to damage the internal mechanism. And don’t skip calibration. Frequent use can throw off accuracy, so calibrate it regularly and store it appropriately in its case. A well-maintained torque wrench is a tool you can trust for years, and your engine will thank you for it.

And next, we have a torque angle gauge, a tool essential for torque-to-yield bolts that need precise torque and angle measurements. This earns a seven out of ten. Not an everyday tool, but crucial for ensuring engine integrity and longevity with torque-to-yield fasteners. Modern engines, especially those with aluminum cylinder heads like the high-performance kind, rely on torque-to-yield fasteners for uniform clamping forces and effective sealing. A torque angle gauge ensures precise tightening, preventing gasket blowouts and boosting engine reliability and performance. A basic torque angle gauge like this one here is 20 to 40 bucks. They provide simple…

Easy to read measurements. Advanced models priced $50 to $100 may include digital displays, memory functions, and locking mechanisms for added precision and durability. Misalignment is an issue with torque angle gauges; it leads to inaccurate readings and improper tightening. So, to avoid this, make sure you keep the gauge secure and aligned, and read the instructions carefully. Practice on a few bolts before working on critical components.

Next up, assembly lube. Think of it as the icing on your engine’s cake. But instead of just making things look good, it prevents metal-on-metal contact during that critical first startup. This earns an 8 out of 10. It’s not a daily tool, but it’s essential for smooth engine break-in and long-term reliability. Assembly lube provides a protective coating during startup before that sweet, sweet engine oil takes over. It prevents wear when components are most vulnerable without attracting excess dirt or debris. Basic assembly lube costs $5 to $15, making it an affordable insurance policy. Premium formulations for high-performance engines can run $15 to $25 and offer a little bit of enhanced protection. Early racers used to use gear oil or even STP additives to make shifts to 7 with lubes, but they lack the protection of modern blends like this Permatex Ultra Slick here. Today’s lubes are engineered for optimal engine break-in and enhanced performance reliability without the guesswork.

Common mistakes include using too much or too little of this stuff. Excess lube can attract dirt and cause sludge, while too little, I mean, it leads to more friction and wear. So, apply a thin, consistent layer and avoid mixing this with the lubricants that can reduce the effectiveness of it. Just follow the directions and, you know, ensure a proper application.

Up next, we have thread sealing with PTFE. This is for threaded fittings that might leak oil or coolant. Thread sealant in those cases is your best friend. This turns in a 6 out of 10. It’s not as frequently used as other tools, but it’s invaluable for leak-free connections. PTFE, which is the same material that makes non-stick pans slippery, creates a reliable barrier against leaks while allowing components to be easily disassembled. Standard tubes of this stuff are between $5 and $10, making it an affordable addition to your cool kit. PTFE particles provide excellent sealing without clamping, and they resist oil, coolant, transmission fluids, that kind of stuff. It’s a non-hardening formula that ensures easy disassembly during maintenance too. Avoid using thread sealing on sensors or plastic fittings where it’s not recommended. Over-application can cause excess to squeeze out, which potentially clogs passages. So, uh, watch that. Clean and dry threads before applying a very thin, even layer to all the male threads. Assemble by hand to ensure proper engagement before tightening, and always check the manufacturer’s guidelines for proper compatibility.

So, that covers all the tools I’ll be using during my rebuild, but there are a few other tools you might want to consider. Depending on the nature of your build or how much of your own work you want to do, you might want to consider a ridge reamer designed to remove the ridge that forms at the top of the cylinder over time. If you’re refreshing an engine and reusing the bore size, a ridge reamer is essential for shaving the ridge and safely removing pistons. However, if you’re sending the engine to a machine shop for an overbore or any other work, they can handle this step. It makes the ridge reamer optional for DIY enthusiasts. Basic ridge reamers cost between $20 and $50, acceptable for hobbyists, while precision models for specialized applications range from $50 to $100. A good ridge reamer provides a smooth, consistent finish without removing excessive material. Look for models with precision ground blades and adjustable guides for accurate material removal. Advanced options may also include interchangeable blades or variable depth settings for added versatility.

A common mistake with a ridge reamer is just removing too much material or using the tool wrong, as it can damage your cylinder walls. Follow the manufacturer instructions, shave small amounts at a time, and check progress frequently. Proper alignment and even pressure are crucial to prevent damage.

Next up, cylinder hone. It’s available in ball or stone varieties. This tool de-glazes cylinder walls and creates the crosshatch pattern that helps piston rings seat correctly. While it’s a valuable addition, engines needing an overbore or high-performance honing are best left to a machine shop. A proper crosshatch distributes oil evenly, ensures ring break-in, and prevents leaks, reduces wear, and improves performance over time. Ball hones, priced between $20 and $50, are user-friendly and great for beginners. Stone hones at $52 or more provide greater precision and control, making them ideal for high-performance applications. A good hone creates a consistent crosshatch without removing too much material. Look for adjustable grit sizes or ergonomic handles and features like guide rails for even pressure and alignment. Be careful here, ’cause over-honing can create taper in a cylinder, which is a common mistake. Avoid removing too much material by making quick passes and checking your progress often. Gotta maintain the correct angle and pressure, and if you’re unsure, consult a professional or follow a detailed guide.

Next up is a freeze plug installer. This tool helps you drive plugs into your engine block without damage or misalignment. Now, it’s not essential; a freeze plug installer makes installation smoother and more precise, especially when you’re placing multiple plugs. You can also use a properly sized socket or leave the task to a machine shop if the engine’s being prepped. Freeze plugs, or core plugs, are leftover holes from the sand casting process used to create engine blocks. Though often called freeze plugs, their main purpose is to drain casting material, not to pop out during freezing. Manual freeze plug installers, priced between $10 and $25, are simple and pretty affordable. You place the plug in the tool and just tap it in with a hammer for straight, even installation. They make hydraulic models, which cost between $30 and $60, and they offer more controlled force for greater precision and reduce the risk of damage. It’s a common issue, and it can lead to leaks, so double-check your alignment and use steady taps to drive it in straight. Avoid excessive force, which can bend or crack the plug, or do like I’m going to do, which is just take it to the machine shop.

Next up is a thread chaser kit. This tool cleans bolt holes before reassembly, removes debris that can cause false torque readings. While a tap and die set does work, taps are aggressive, and they might remove metal if they’re used incorrectly. Basic thread chaser kits cost between $15 and $30 and include chasers for various size threads. Premium kits, priced between $35 and $60, offer high-quality materials, ergonomic handles, and even more size options for precise cleaning. Make sure to avoid cross-threading by properly lining the chaser and apply even pressure. Take your time to prevent over-chasing, which can strip the threads and compromise their integrity. Like me, if you prefer not to invest in a kit, that’s fine; a machine shop can usually handle this. Professional-grade thread cleaning on a budget, taps from a tap and die set, like I said, can be used, but they require extra care to avoid damaging the threads.

Finally, on my list, we have an engine rotating tool. This tool lets you manually rotate an engine on a stand, making it easier to check clearances or install parts. It’s useful, but it’s a little more optional because you can usually rotate the engine with a socket on a crank snout or by turning the flywheel. Still, it offers better control to have the actual tool, especially for complex assemblies requiring precise movement. Manual rotating tools are priced between $20 and $50. They have a simple crank handle for smooth hand-powered rotation. Always make sure you remove your spark plugs before rotating a fully assembled engine. This is going to avoid compression issues that can make turning difficult or even risky. Apply steady, controlled force and ensure the tool is securely attached to prevent slips or misalignment.

Where have it, guys? Those are the tools that I will be using to disassemble and then eventually reassemble my 351 Windsor engine. You know, when I started out doing this, I had no idea what most of these tools even were, and I had no idea what to even think about going out and getting or why you would use them. So, I hope that this video has kind of shed some light on that for you, helped you out. And only you guys may already be experienced engine builders, but hey, you know, if you learned something today, as always, I ask that you give me a like and subscribe. It really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, if you think I missed something, or if you think my importance factor was wrong on any of these, hey, give me a shout, let me know what you think in the comments. I appreciate that too. So, as always, guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No gauge, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.