Category Bullnose Garage

This is the Ford E4OD transmission, born at the Sharonville transmission plant in Ohio. This powerhouse was designed to haul the C6’s legendary toughness into the modern age. E4OD wasn’t just a warmed-over version of old ideas; it was Ford’s answer to a new world where trucks had to tow campers, tall boats, climb mountains, and still cruise highways without bleeding your wallet dry at every pump.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, and today we’re talking about the E4OD transmission. True to its name, electronic four-speed overdrive, this mechanical marvel packed overdrive, electronic controls, and a chance at better fuel economy in Ford’s toughest trucks and SUVs, all while keeping the heavy-duty muscle Ford fans expected from the C6. But what’s really going on inside this hulking aluminum-clad marvel? What’s made it a hero for truck fans, a headache for mechanics, and a talking point at swap meets for over 30 years? Stick around as we unpack its history, tackle its quirks, and figure out why the E4OD still pulls its weight, and maybe, just maybe, why it deserves a spot under your truck. That is, if it’s not already there.

Hello! The E4OD hit the scene in 1989, just as the automotive world was shifting gears. Trucks weren’t just workhorses anymore; they were daily drivers, highway cruisers, and everything in between. Ford needed a transmission that could deliver both towing power and monitor efficiency, and this E4 was their answer. Built on the foundation of the C6, Ford’s legendary three-speed automatic, it came with some major upgrades by keeping the C6’s rugged planetary gear set and beaky design, but adding an overdrive fourth gear, a lockup torque converter, and electronic controls. The E4OD bridged the gap between the C6’s old-school toughness and the modern features demanded by a new generation of Ford truck owners.

Let’s talk about the specs. The E4 features four forward gears and reverse gear ratios are 2.71 to 1 in first, 1.54 to 1 in second, 1 to 1 in third, and 0.71 to 1 in fourth for highway-friendly overdrive. Reverse comes in at 2.18 to 1. It is a big heavy-duty unit, tipping the scales at approximately 230 lbs dry. It holds between 17 and 18 quarts of transmission fluid completely dry, with Mercon automatic transmission fluid recommended. But there’s an important caveat regarding Mercon fluid, which I’ll get to in a bit. Stay tuned for that.

The case is made from aluminum to cut weight while staying durable. Early models came with cast iron tail shaft housings, but most later versions switched to aluminum to shave off even more weight. The lockup torque converter is a standout feature built to boost efficiency by cutting slippage at cruising speeds. Unlike traditional torque converters that rely entirely on fluid, the E4’s lockup converter uses a clutch to form a direct mechanical link between the engine and the transmission. This touchdown on heat boosts fuel economy and makes the E4 a dependable performer for towing and highway cruising. While it wasn’t the first lockup design in the industry, its use in the E4OD was key to keeping durability front and center, making it a trusted choice for both commercial and personal trucks.

For 1989, the E4’s electronic controls brought a new level of sophistication to Ford’s heavy-duty lineup. A transmission control module, or TCM, monitored inputs like throttle position, vehicle speed, and engine load to manage shift points, line pressure, and torque converter lockup. This level of adaptability made the E4OD more responsive and efficient, no matter the conditions. Keeping pace with the industry’s move toward electronic transmission control, the E4OD was installed in a wide range of vehicles from 1989 to 1998. It was a staple in F-series trucks, including the F-150, F-250, and F-350, as well as Broncos and E-series vans. It was paired with a wide range of engines, from the dependable 300 inline 6 to the burly 460 big block and International Harvester’s II diesels. To accommodate these engines, Ford produced the E4 with distinct bell housing patterns: small block, big block, and diesel.

This one here is a small block. The small block version works with engines like the 302, 351 Windsor, and the 360. The big block version is for the 460, while the diesel version is designed for engines like the 6.9 L and the 7.3 L IDI. While the big block and diesel bell housings might look similar, they have different bolt patterns and aren’t directly interchangeable. Modifying one to fit another engine isn’t a simple task; it requires significant machining and custom adaptive plates. Unless you’re a seasoned fabricator with the right tools, it’s best just to use the correct bell housing for your engine to ensure proper alignment and operation.

While the E4 was primarily used in Ford’s consumer trucks and vans, its robust design made it suitable for specialized commercial and industrial applications too. You’ll find it in vehicles like ambulances, motor homes, and shuttle buses built on Ford’s E-series and F-series chassis. Its heavy-duty capabilities made it a popular choice for upfitted vehicles that required reliable performance under demanding conditions.

Now let’s talk about what this transmission does well and where it sometimes struggles. When it comes to strengths, it stands out for its durability and towing capacity. Built on the bones of the C6, it can handle a serious amount of torque. The overdrive gear and lockup torque converter also made it a huge forward in fuel efficiency, especially for highway driving. Its Achilles’ heel? Overheating. That’s why adding an auxiliary transmission cooler isn’t just a good idea; it’s a must if you plan to tow or haul. Another issue is solenoid pack failures. The good news? They’re fixable. The bad news? Diagnosing that problem can be tricky without the right tools. And then there’s the oil pan. Surprise, surprise! E4 doesn’t even have a drain plug. That means changing the fluid requires dropping the whole pan, which is messy and time-consuming unless you know a handy trick, which I’ll share in a bit.

One of the E4OD’s greatest perks wasn’t even part of the original plan. It’s highly compatible with parts from its successor, the 4R100, introduced in 1998. The 4R100 refined and expanded on the E4’s foundation, and many of its components can be retrofitted into an E4OD to boost performance and durability. Builders often swap in 4R100 clutches, prized for their strength and ability to handle higher torque loads. Solenoid packs and valve bodies from the 4R100 are also popular upgrades, offering more reliable shifting and better line pressure control. While these retrofits aren’t rocket science for a skilled builder, they do demand close attention to compatibility and sometimes even reprogramming the TCM to handle the upgrades.

If gutting a 4R100 is your style, the 4 boasts a full aftermarket ecosystem. Popular upgrades include high-performance valve bodies for firmer, more precise shifts and upgraded clutches known to handle extreme horsepower and torque. Torque converters are another key upgrade; aftermarket models offer higher stall speeds for performance builds or heavy-duty designs for towing and off-road use. To keep things cool, many builders offer deep transmission pans that boost fluid capacity and come with built-in cooling fins. Plus, they typically come with a pre-installed drain plug, a major win for your maintenance.

Advanced controllers like the US Shift, formerly Valman Opti Shift, let you fine-tune shift points, line pressure, and torque converter lockup, giving you total control over your transmission’s behavior. When it comes to maintenance, the E4’s lack of a drain plug on the oil pan, like I mentioned before, can be a real headache. Dropping the pan to change the fluid is messy and time-consuming. However, there is a method to make the process cleaner. You can disconnect the return line from the transmission cooler and direct it into a container. Start the engine briefly, and the transmission’s internal pump will push the fluid out through the line. But here’s the catch: you need to shut the engine off before the fluid flow stops completely to avoid running the pump dry, which can cause serious damage. Refill the pan and repeat until the fluid coming out looks clean. While this method helps refresh much of the fluid, it doesn’t replace all the old fluid in the system. For a complete flush, it’s best to have it done professionally, and for long-term convenience, adding a drain plug to the bottom of the pan is a worthwhile upgrade.

The E4 was originally designed to use Mercon automatic transmission fluid. However, it’s crucial to note that starting in the late 1990s, Ford introduced Mercon 5, a synthetic blend with different friction characteristics. But here’s the catch: Mercon 5 is not backward compatible. Hold up, hold up, wait a minute, wait just a second. I got to explain something. You’ll be back in just a second.

Now, about the whole Mercon versus Mercon 5 debacle, it’s a bit of a soap opera in the transmission world. Back when Ford introduced Mercon 5 in ’97, they explicitly told everyone, do not use this in transmissions that require Mercon. That included our trusty E4OD. Using Mercon 5 back then could mess up your transmission shifting and cause all sorts of headaches because the friction characteristics were different. So the avoid Mercon 5 like the plague mantra started, and for good reason. Fast forward to 2006, and Ford throws us a curveball. They decide to discontinue Mercon and announce that Mercon 5 is now the recommended fluid for all applications that previously used Mercon, including the E4OD. No big reformulation announcement, no flashy new label, not even a new name, just a quiet technical service bulletin saying, hey, Mercon 5 is fine now.

You can imagine the confusion this caused. Enthusiasts, mechanics, and builders were left scratching their heads, wondering if they should trust the new guidance or stick with what they knew. So here is the straight talk: according to Ford, you can use Mercon 5 in your E4OD. But I get it; old habits die hard, and myths stick around. If you’re picking up an E4OD from a junkyard or you’re unsure of its history and you want to play it safe, using a fluid that meets the original Mercon specification won’t hurt. Products like Valvoline Dex/Merc automatic transmission fluid are designed to be compatible with transmissions that require Mercon. Just look for fluids that state they’re suitable for Mercon applications. Using a quality fluid like this ensures you’re keeping the E4OD running smoothly without venturing into Mercon 5 territory. If you’re uncomfortable with it, always remember using the correct fluid is key to your transmission’s health, so taking this extra step ensures you’re doing right by your rig. But if you want to follow Ford’s updated guidance, Mercon 5 is officially approved.

Rebuilding the E4OD is more challenging than working on old automatics like the C6 or C4. The electronics add complexity, and getting the end play just right is absolutely critical. This requires precise tools like a dial indicator because even minor errors can lead to premature wear or failure. A professional rebuild can cost anywhere from $2,000 to $4,000, depending on parts and labor. For builders tackling this job themselves, patience and access to the right tools are key.

Now let’s talk about why someone might choose the E4 for a build or why they might pass on it. The E4OD is a powerhouse of a transmission. It’s built to handle high torque loads, making it a top contender for builds that demand durability. If you’re building something like a towing rig, a heavy-duty hauler, or even an off-road rig, the E4OD can take the abuse. Its electronically controlled overdrive gear adds versatility, sparing you the agony of screaming down the highway in low gear. And with its strong aftermarket support, you can upgrade the internals, add a standalone controller, or install a larger cooler to make it even more capable.

But it’s definitely not the perfect fit for every application. The E4OD is big, heavy, and complex. If you’re working in a lightweight street car like a Mustang or a pure performance build where quick shifts are critical, you might want to consider something like a built C4 or C6, a 4R70W, or even a Powerglide. They’re simpler, lighter, and tailor-made for fast, high RPM shifts. Plus, the E4OD’s size can complicate custom projects; it might take some serious tunnel mods to make it fit smaller vehicles. So while the E4 excels in high torque, multi-purpose builds, other options shine when raw speed or simplicity is the goal. But hey, if you want the bragging rights of cramming a monster transmission into a Fox Body, go for it! I won’t stop you.

Although the E4OD was replaced by the 4R100 in 1998, its legacy lives on. Many of the 4R100’s improvements are direct evolutions of the E4OD design. For truck enthusiasts, this transmission remains a popular choice for retrofits, restorations, and even some high torque drag racing builds, like diesel truck racing. Its mix of durability and modern features makes it a solid candidate for upgrading older vehicles or giving newer ones a performance edge.

So what’s the bottom line? The E4 is more than just a transmission; it’s a milestone in Ford’s engineering evolution. Whether you’re restoring a classic, building a tow rig, or just trying to understand what’s under your truck, the E4 delivers a fascinating blend of old school toughness and modern tech. If you’ve got an E4OD sitting on a pallet like I do, don’t think of it as a relic; it’s an opportunity waiting to be unleashed. Whether you’re selling it, swapping it, or upgrading it, this transmission has a story worth telling and a future worth building.

So there you go, guys! That’s everything that I know, or pretend to know, about the Ford E4OD transmission. I just so happen to have this one here as a visual aid for you guys that I just got done pulling from my donor chassis with my 351 Windsor engine. So, uh, yeah, there it is! If you learned something, uh, like I did doing this video, guys, give me a like and a subscribe; it really helps me out. Uh, go grab yourself a really cool hat from my merch store; that helps me out too. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop it in the comments and let me know. And as always, thanks again for watching, guys! We will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.

Imagine this: you’re in a cluttered garage, the scent of old oil heavy in the air, and some friend of a friend mechanic is elbow deep under the hood, grumbling, “Well, it’s a Ford, but it’s not one of the good ones.” Welcome to the strange and sometimes disappointing world of Ford’s lesser-known engines. These power plants that never got the fanfare or hero worship of, say, a 302 or a big block 460. Today, let’s shine a light on two oddballs, the ones you only hear about when someone’s squinting in an old factory option list: the SX V6 and the 255 V8. Now, these engines aren’t the mighty Cleveland or the famed Windsor family members that everyone drools over at car shows. No, these are the forgotten kids at the family reunion. But before you turn away, consider this: these engines came to life during a time when Ford was trying to navigate new emissions regulations, stricter fuel economy rules, and the oil crisis panic. They’re like those weird cousins at Thanksgiving—awkward at first but full of fascinating stories. Want to break the ice?

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And so here’s the real question: why should you care? Well, because understanding these engines is like getting a secret peek into Ford’s inner thought process back then, an era defined by compromise, creativity, and a dash of desperation. And who knows, maybe one of these engines is the perfect quirky choice for your next project. It might not be a tire shredder, but it’ll definitely earn a nod and a chuckle at your next Cars and Coffee meetup. So crack open a cold one, settle in, and let’s give these overlooked motors their 15 minutes of fame.

Hello! So you might be asking, why lump these two misfits together? Well, both the SX V6 and the 255 V8 represent a particular historical moment for Ford. Picture the late 1970s to early ’80s: emission laws were tightening faster than a lug nut at a pit stop, gas mileage became the new Holy Grail, and automakers were scrambling to make cars cleaner and thriftier at the pump. The big thirsty V8s of the ’60s and early ’70s suddenly looked like dinosaurs, and Ford had to figure out something new, something that could pass regulations without guzzling gas like a frat house kegger. These engines were Ford’s attempts at that balancing act. The Essex and the 255 were part of the experimental toolkit, so to speak. Sure, they didn’t redefine performance or become icons of efficiency, but they do tell us a lot about how manufacturers scramble for answers. And let’s be honest, when you’re talking about unusual or offbeat Ford engines, these two tend to come up in the same breath. Neither has a big fan base or much love, and both carry that head-scratching, “Why did Ford do this?” mystique. Side by side, they paint a clearer picture of what was happening under the Blue Oval’s roof at the time.

And finally, for my fellow Bullnose enthusiasts—that’s Ford trucks between 1980 and ’86—there’s a practical reason. The 255 V8 actually showed up in some early Bullnose trucks, even if it wasn’t exactly a top choice. And the 3.8L SX V6 also made a brief appearance, but only in small numbers of light-duty F100s during the ’82 to ’82 model years. While neither engine became iconic, both reflect Ford’s willingness to roll the dice, even if those bets didn’t quite pay off. Understanding one gives context to the other, and together they make a perfect pair for this video.

The Ford SX V6 came onto the scene in the 1980s. Now keep in mind, I’m talking about the North American version made in the S6 engine plant in Windsor, Ontario, not the UK version made in Dagenham, Essex, starting in the ’60s. They are not the same, not even close, which can be confusing. So the, uh, the North American version first debuted in the 1982 Thunderbird, got put in the LTD, and later snuck into the Mustang lineup. This engine soldiered on through the ’90s and beyond, even showing up as a supercharged option in the Thunderbird Super Coupe. The final version, a longer-stroked 4.2L, ended its production in the 2007 F-150. I mentioned it’s used in Bullnose trucks earlier, but it wasn’t exactly common. While most F-series trucks of that era stuck with the stalwart inline sixes and V8s, the 3.8L SX V6 did appear in a small number of base model F100s, particularly in Canada. It was a rarity in the lineup and wasn’t offered in heavier-duty models. But that doesn’t mean the enthusiasts haven’t toyed with the idea or even attempted a swap. Thanks to its compact size and decent fuel economy for the time, produced in massive numbers, the SX V6 was a true workhorse in sedans and family haulers. Not flashy, but dependable.

In the early ’80s, carbureted versions were the norm, but eventually Ford embraced the FI on the platform, improving drivability and emissions over time. The SX V6 evolved. It started out in a 3.8L engine, which is 232 cubic inches, with a bore of 3.81 inches and a stroke of 3.39 inches. Later, it increased the stroke to 3.74 inches to create the 4.2L version, which is 256 cubic inches, which powered F-150s from ’97 to 2007. There was also a 3.9L version, which is 237 cubic inches, achieved by using a 3.4-inch stroke, which appeared in vehicles like the Ford Freestar and Mercury Monterey, but never made its way to trucks. In addition to its displacement variations, the SX V6 stuck under with updates to keep up with changing technology and regulations. Early versions ran on carburetors, as I said, but Ford introduced EFI in the 1980s and later sequential port injection, or SPI. These upgrades brought more precise fuel delivery, improving drivability, efficiency, and emissions. These advancements played a big role in keeping the Essex relevant well into the ’90s, even as competition increased.

The production SX is an iron block, iron-headed V6. Deck height for the SX V6 reportedly measures approximately 8.9 inches, though it’s a hard stat to nail down with any confidence. Compression ratios range from about 8.0 to 1 to 9.0 to 1, depending on the year and application. Perfect for regular pump gas. Horsepower in early configurations wasn’t exactly eye-popping, I think roughly 110 to 120 horsepower in its early days, though EFI models and supercharged variants pushed that number significantly higher later on. Torque usually landed in the low to mid-200 pound range, which is respectable for a V6 in that era. The firing order for the SX V6 is typically 1-4-2-5-3-6. Oil capacity runs about 4.5 to 5 quarts, and good old 10W30 or 10W40 is often recommended, though as always, check the specs for your particular year. Thanks to its relatively lightweight build compared to the small block V8, it’s a tempting choice for compact projects.

Now, nobody’s geeking out over the finer details like they do with classic Ford V8s, but the SX V6 is a short, stout little workhorse. For practicality, not racing glory. Pop the hood on a Ford of the right era, and if you see a compact V6 with iron heads, a front-mounted distributor (at least on older carbureted models), and the distinctive Ford blue or black engine paint, depending on the year, chances are you’re looking at an Essex. But your best bet for identifying it, as usual, is to check the engine stampings and casting numbers. The intake manifold and valve cover shape can also give it away. Short, wide valve covers and a modest intake practically scream SX.

As I already mentioned, the SX V6 primarily powered cars like the Ford LTD, Mustang, and Thunderbird. Mercury counterparts shared love too. For years, it was Ford’s go-to V6 for front-engine, rear-drive sedans and coupes, especially as emission standards tightened and the V8 dominance began to wane. In its later years, it even found a home under the hood of front-wheel-drive platforms like the Taurus and minivans like the Windstar, those versions sporting improved tech. Now, as for common issues? Overheating? Yep, that wasn’t unheard of, especially in certain setups. Head gasket failures were a notorious sore spot in some years, especially in the ’90s. Front-wheel-drive variants, timing cover leaks, worn-out timing chains, and intake manifold gasket leaks also popped up occasionally. Regular maintenance helps, but if you’re eyeing a used Essex, you’ll want to give it a solid once-over.

When it comes to transmissions behind the SX V6 in rear-wheel-drive configurations, Ford initially paired it with automatics like the C5 and later the AOD for models like certain Fox body Mustangs and Thunderbirds. As the platform evolved, newer automatic options like the AOD and 4R70W showed up in later applications, particularly in the ’90s Mustangs and Thunderbirds. They still carried the SX V6 for manual fans. The SX V6 occasionally got the T5 5-speed in Fox body and SN95 Mustangs, and the Thunderbird Super Coupe famously offered the M5R2 5-speed manual. These factory pairings gave you a menu of bolt-up options, no fabrication needed, as long as you’re sourcing from SX V6-equipped donor cars. However, it’s worth noting that the SX V6 uses a unique bell housing pattern different from the classic small block Ford V8. In other words, you just can’t grab a transmission meant for a 302 or a 351 and expect it to bolt on without an adapter. If you’re doing a swap or restoration, your best bet is to find a transmission originally designed for the Essex. Now, to make matters worse, the SX bell housing pattern is different between front-wheel-drive and rear-wheel-drive versions, so you need to keep that in mind if you’re looking to bolt one up.

Replacement parts? No problem. Gaskets, filters, belts, hoses are all easy to find. But don’t expect a bustling SX speed shop with high-lift cams or tricked-out cylinder heads. If you’re willing to dig, you might find some enthusiasts adapting Thunderbird Super Coupe parts, or you could get brave and try forced induction. For most builders, though, the SX V6 is a leave-it-stock and hope-for-good-gas-mileage engine. We’ll talk more about potential performance tweaks a little bit later. So the SX V6, in a nutshell, steady, reliable, but never spectacular—a, shall we say, practical chapter in Ford’s history. It served faithfully during a challenging time, never aiming to wow gearheads at the drag strip. If you’re building a light, fuel-efficient rig or just want something quirky to chat about at the next car show, it might be worth considering. Otherwise, it’s hard to argue against a more common and better-supported engine like the 302 or even the 289. But there’s a certain charm in breathing new life into a forgotten motor.

Now on to today’s other star player, the 255 V8. Ford introduced the 255 as part of its effort to downsize the Windsor engine family in the late 1970s, rolling into the early ’80s. The goal was to create a smaller, more efficient V8 in an era when fuel economy and emissions were top priorities. The 255 saw action from around 1980 to ’82 with a mix of Ford and Mercury full-size cars, and yes, it even found its way into some early Bullnose F-series trucks. But it never quite caught on. Most folks saw it as a shadow of the venerable 302. Production numbers were low, and the engine quietly faded into obscurity as Ford focused on more promising configurations. The 255 might just be the definition of “seemed like a good idea at the time.” These days, it’s more of a curiosity than anything else. Still, if you’re working on a factory-correct restoration of a 1980-82 F100 or a full-size car from that era, the 255 could be on your radar. It’s a piece of the puzzle; it helps us understand Ford’s strategy at the time: keep that V8 cache alive while also avoiding gas guzzling. And the results? Let’s just say they were mixed.

The 255 V8 came from a proud lineage of small block Ford engines, starting with the 221 and 260 in the early ’60s. These compact V8s were trailblazers in their day, setting the stage for the Windsor family, which included legends like the 302 and eventually the ill-fated 255. While the 221 and 260 succeeded by striking a balance between power and efficiency, the 255 faced an uphill battle two decades later, hampered by tougher emissions and fuel economy mandates. Its displacement, about 255 cubic inches or 4.2L, comes from a reduced bore compared to the 302. The deck height is the same as a 302 at 8.2 inches, so what you’ve got is essentially a 302 block with smaller internals and restrictive heads. Compression ratios were low in the 8.0 to 1 to 8.3 to 1 range. Horsepower hovered around 115 to 120 horsepower, and torque landed in the 190 to 200 lb-ft neighborhood. Not exactly numbers to get your heart racing. The block and heads are cast iron, sturdy enough, but those tiny valves—1.64 inches intake and 1.38 inches exhaust—choke airflow like it owes them money. The firing order is the same as other Windsor V8s, and oil capacity is around 5 quarts. The recommended grade, similar to other small block Fords, tends to be 30 or 40.

Just like the SX, it’s compact and lightweight for a V8, but that’s pretty much its only bragging right in the performance department. At first glance, the 255 looks a lot like a 302, which can even trip up seasoned gearheads. To be sure, you need to check casting numbers and measure bore and stroke. The heads are a giveaway; those small valve sizes are a dead ringer. And if you’re looking at a 1980 to ’82 Ford or Mercury with a V8 that feels suspiciously underpowered, it’s probably a 255. The 255 showed up in certain Fox body platforms, full-size Fords like the LTD and Crown Victoria predecessors, and crucially, it made an appearance in some early Bullnose F100 trucks. It was never widely celebrated, so it didn’t hang around very long. By the mid-’80s, Ford had moved on to better-performing, more reliable engines. So let’s call it like it is: the 255 is an underachiever designed for fuel economy and emissions compliance. It’s not speed. Acceleration is modest at best. It can cruise around town and handle daily driving, but don’t expect to win any drag races. The engine’s real job is being a placeholder, just something to fill the bay while Ford worked on better ideas. Adequate for its time, but it won’t exactly set your hair on fire.

Maintenance-wise, nothing special here—just your usual low-V8 stuff: timing chain wear, carb tuning headaches, and the occasional oil leak from the valve covers or oil pan. The main gripe is its lackluster performance. With routine maintenance, it runs smoothly, but don’t expect to find any hidden power without serious mods. Unlike the SX V6, the 255 shares the classic small block Ford bell housing pattern that’s been around since the 1960s. This means it works with a wide range of transmissions built for engines like the 289, 302, and 351. From the factory, the 255, during its short production window, was most often paired with automatic transmissions in full-size Ford and Mercury models and early Bullnose trucks. You typically find a C4 or its successor, the C5, bolted behind it. The C4 and C5 were three-speed automatics, Ford’s warhorse back then—simple and reliable. By 1980, Ford also introduced the AOD, which is automatic overdrive, in some applications. Certain full-size cars running the 255 used the AOD to squeeze out a few more miles per gallon on the highway. And while rare, some Fox body cars with a 255 also offered the SROD, which is single rail overdrive four-speed manual transmission. Thanks to the interchangeability of small block Ford bell housing patterns, it’s not out of the question to find one in the wild.

The real advantage here is that if you decide to swap or upgrade from the 255, or even just want a different transmission option, the classic small block Ford bolt pattern gives you a buffet of choices: T5 five-speeds, AOD, AOD 4R70W automatics, Tremec five or six speeds—all potential candidates with the right combination of flywheel, clutch if you’re going manual, and linkage. This makes transmission selection for the 255-powered project far more flexible than what you’d encounter with the SX V6. But if the SX was slim on performance parts, the 255 is downright bare. Sure, some 302 parts fit, but the tiny valves and low compression ratio mean you’re starting from a weaker baseline. You could swap heads, intake manifolds, and exhaust components from a 302, but by the time you do that, you might as well have started with a 302 and saved yourself the hassle. Basic tweaks and maybe a slightly better intake or exhaust are all you’re likely to bother with unless you’re just dead set on making a point.

So let’s say you’re that special kind of gearhead who loves a challenge. Maybe you don’t care that your engine isn’t exactly a darling in the performance community. Maybe you want to roll into a car show, pop the hood, and make people say, “Wait, what is that?” If that’s the case, the SX V6 or the 255 V8 could provide a unique canvas for your next build. Just know what you’re getting into. For the SX V6, there’s a precedent for forced induction—the Thunderbird Super Coupe and a supercharged variant of this engine. With some scavenging and creativity, you could replicate or adapt those components to build a snappy V6, focusing more on torque and uniqueness than sheer horsepower. Think of a lightweight Fox body Mustang with a supercharged SX V6, or even an oddball swap into a Ranger. Sure, it’ll need custom fabrication, and yes, tracking down performance parts will be an exercise in hair-pulling, but if you succeed, you’ll have a story worth telling at every meet and greet. The SX’s lighter weight could also improve handling in smaller vehicles. Imagine a nimble autocross machine that stands out precisely because it’s not running the usual small block V8.

So the 255 V8, if you’re really committed, you could improve it with better flowing 302 heads, a mild performance cam, and freer breathing intake and exhaust. This could transform a wheezy old economy motor into something at least respectable. If you’re building a period-correct sleeper, stuffing it into a classic sedan or a vintage import to turn heads, it might just have enough charm to make sense. Or consider a small, all-lightweight roadster that could benefit from a compact V8. The 255 could be a fun project in a build where every pound matters, and all you’re after is that smooth V8 rumble, not huge horsepower. Are these mainstream performance choices? Absolutely not. You’ll work harder, spend more, and probably get less performance than you would with a common engine like a 302, 351, or even a turbocharged 2.3L four-cylinder. But that’s not the point. The point is that going off the beaten path has its own reward. If you’re all about uniqueness and love a good challenge, the SX V6 or the 255 could be the ultimate conversation starter and a test of your engineering chops.

In the grand tapestry of Ford engine history, the SX V6 and the 255 V8 are undoubtedly footnotes. They were products of their time, the late ’70s and early ’80s, when the rules of the game were changing faster than a pit crew at Daytona. Fuel economy and emissions compliance were the new commandments, and Ford, like everyone else, had to figure out how to satisfy Uncle Sam without boring the driving public to death. Though boring might still be fair. So the next time someone asks you about Ford’s engine lineup for the Bullnose era, you can say, “Sure, everyone knows the 302 and 351, but have you heard about the SX V6 and the 255 V8?” And just like that, you have something to talk about over a cold beverage, leaning on a fender, enjoying the smell of old oil in a garage. It’s shop talk fodder, a piece of history worth remembering, even if it’s just for the chuckle.

So there you go, guys. That’s everything that I know about the Ford SX V6 and the 255 V8. I hope you learned something today. I learned a bunch about these engines doing this video; hope you did too. Uh, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop me a comment below. I appreciate that. And as always, I really appreciate you guys for being here. Thanks again for watching, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

4 years, that’s how long this donor chassis has been rotting in my backyard, mocking me every time I walked past it like it was earning a PhD in Rust and regret. Well, the wait is over. In today’s video, I finally dragged its sorry frame into the garage to kick off this build series from my 351 Windsor into a 408 stroker.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, where small block dreams meet backyard ambition. This isn’t just another project; it’s the start of a long-awaited dream. The day kicked off with a caffeine-fueled tow job where my wife and I, armed with determination and questionable life choices, wrestled that chassis into position. Then, with the help of brute strength, an army of munchkins, and my shiny new floor-mounted shackle with a cal along, we hauled it into the garage.

Once it was in, the real work began. I disconnected everything, yanked the engine out with a hoist, and got it set up on a stand. The transmission soared out of there like it had tickets to a circus audition, straight onto a pallet where it belongs. It’s not your everyday procedure, but hey, I’ll take an easy win when I can get one. But here’s my favorite part: with the dust settled, my 4-year-old stepped in to help manhandle the husk of a chassis and get it parked outside. Seeing her take charge of that big frame was a perfect way to cap off the day.

And now, standing here next to the 351, I’m pumped to finally say we’re ready to tear it down and turn it into the 408 stroker that I’ve been dreaming about. This is the first chapter in an epic saga that promises grease, grit, and enough excitement to keep us all on the edge of our creepers. Let’s get started!

Hello! So today, my goal is to get the drive shaft off, drain the transmission fluid, and drain the oil out of the engine so I could prep to move this thing. If I’ve got time, I might change that front wheel too. So this is a two-piece drive shaft. You can see it goes through a mount point there in the middle, back to the pumpkin, and then, of course, up to the transmission. So, uh, back here, I know I just take these 12-point bolts off here, knock her loose, and drop her down. Um, I’m not sure how to get that off of there, and the transmission just, you just yank out of there. So let’s see if I can, uh, get that figured out.

All right, now that that’s dropped down, I’m going to go back here and, uh, take it off the diff. All right, so now I’ll just yank her out of there and get it out of the way, and I’ll figure out how to separate the two parts of the drive shaft later. It does—there we go. Where’s the drain plug in this son? That can’t be it, there can it? I guess we look it up. All right, so learning stuff every day, guys. It turns out that the E4OD transmission here does not have a drain plug on the pan. A common modification that some folks do is to put a drain plug down underneath there. You just drill a hole and pop a plug in. Um, I might do that, but I think that would get—I would get myself pretty messy drilling a hole in the bottom of the thing full of fluid. I guess it takes like, like four gallons of fluid. Holy hell! All right, well, so I gotta figure out how to drain this thing, and I think I’m just going to end up cracking some bolts on the pan down here and, uh, letting some of it drain out that way. You also have to drain the converter, and there’s a plug up here, uh, underneath for that, and so I have to do that. But it’s a much bigger job than I was anticipating for today. Um, and unfortunately, I don’t have a pan big enough, so I’m going to have to go out and get me a much bigger fluid pan underneath this thing because I don’t want all this transmission fluid spilling all over my nice gravel here, even though I’ve already got quite a bit. And, uh, so, uh, that kind of wraps it for today for me. Uh, I’ll be back, but I think I’m going to go ahead and change this tire out real quick first, uh, so I can at least accomplish something.

Well, guys, today is the day. I’ve got the donor chassis moved out from where it’s been sitting for the last 4 years, right in front of the garage. I’m getting ready to pull this thing into the garage. I’m going to pull this engine and this transmission, and I’m going to bring you along for the whole thing. If you’re new here, this is what I call the donor. I call it that because this engine here is going to be pulled, rebuilt, turned into a 408 stroker. It’s a 351 Windsor right now, turned into a 408 stroker and stuck in that truck right over there eventually. The first step is obviously to get it off of this chassis and tear it down, take a look at it, see what’s going on inside, and then get it off to a machine shop to do all that stuff. But before I can do that, I gotta get it off of here, so I’m all prepared for that. My last video, I took all the accessories and stuff off and, uh, did a little bit of calculation to see how much money I made from that stuff, and this time, like I said, we’re pulling it into the garage, and we’re going to start lifting this engine off and getting it on a stand.

So the first thing I’m going to do is use the new system that I just put into my garage with my, uh, garage floor anchor and the hitch mount that I put in there. I got another video on how I did that. You can come along and, by myself, yank this thing into the garage so that we can get a cherry picker in here and start pulling this engine. Once I’ve got it in the garage, I’ll be putting a jack stand underneath the transmission so the transmission will stay where it is. You gotta block that thing up so that when you disconnect the engine, uh, the transmission doesn’t just flop over or bend your frame, bend the crossmember as you pull the engine out. So, uh, I’m going to do that, and then once I’ve got the transmission, uh, blocked up, I’ll go ahead and start, uh, undoing the engine mount bolts and take this sucker off.

All right, kid, ready for this? Yeah! All right, chat it up, attach it up, attat it. I’m attaching it right here. Hey, come here, you want to try this? Yeah, okay. All you do is just go like this, just move it back and forth. Oh, okay, okay, just be careful with it. All the way back, all the way down, all the way, and then back. It’s a bun! It is! You’re moving a huge vehicle! Look at that! Oh boy, it’s not going up! The bun, it will! Oh, hey Dad, look at you! I can’t, I can’t touch that Fortran hair! Okay, look out, girls! Dad, how did you do that? I didn’t know you could do that! I didn’t know that! Holy moly! Yeah, I think that’s far enough. What do you think? That’s good! That’s good! Heh, put them behind the back wheels, okay? And you put yours behind the front wheels, okay? Okay, good job, good job! Okay, this one, put that one in front. Why? Well, that one will keep you from going forward, just in case.

All right, guys, now that I’ve got this truck in the garage, or what’s left of this truck in the garage, it’s time to support the transmission before I pull the engine. Now, I’m sure most of you guys already know this; it was news to me when I first started out in this whole adventure. The front of the transmission is only supported by its connection to the engine, so there’s nothing underneath the transmission here holding it to the frame of the truck. Now, in the back, there is a crossmember here that holds up the transmission, but the front, there’s nothing. So if you pull the engine without supporting the front of the transmission, it’ll bend down and bend your crossmember and do all kinds of crazy stuff, right? So you’ve got to support the front of your transmission. I am just going to use a jack stand for this. Uh, it’s super simple. Everything that I’m doing here is actually really simple because everything is removed, but it’s kind of cool because now it allows you to kind of see everything that’s going on. So, uh, I got my jack stand and kind of figured out the height here, and it is almost at one click the perfect height to support this transmission. All I gotta do is just jack the truck up just a little bit and get that jack stand under there. So I’m going to go ahead and do that. I’m just going to use a bottle jack for this. Now, I don’t have to go up very much because this jack stand clicked at the first clicker in there is actually just about exactly the right height to go into the—so I just got to come up like less than half an inch to get it up there. And there we go! And now lower this down, I should be pretty tight. So for extra support, I’m also putting my bottle jack with a block of wood underneath the transmission pan. Uh, this I’ve never done this before, so I want to make sure I’m not missing anything, that I’m not going to, um, you know, supporting this this way isn’t enough or, uh, that it wobbles or anything when I’m trying to pull the engine off or anything. So I just want to make sure that I’m good and supported here. So that’s what I’m going to do. I’m just going to go ahead and, uh, support the oil pan area as well with a little bit of pressure, and that way I should be good to go.

And so the next thing that I’m going to do is take the bolts out. What? I’ve never done that before either! Yep, there it is, almost ready to go. See, in this way, since I’ve got this tight, if there’s any wiggling or whatever when I disconnect these, that way this will hold it because you don’t want to leave anything to chance when you’re pulling an engine. This is how you move it; you hold on to this and you push it around. Wow! I a try! Okay, so here we are all hooked up. I just want to kind of show you guys how I have this set up. So this is, uh, obviously a plate that I bought that fits the EFI version of the intake for the 351 Windsor. Uh, fits a bunch of different engines, but it does fit this one. And then I bought a load leveler just to make sure that, uh, nothing goes squirrely on me. And I put the load leveler, uh, chain hooks here through the, uh, the plate that I got. And what this is actually going to allow me to do is, is this—you can’t really do it now because it’s pretty tight, but this can actually move back and forth. There we go! And it lets the engine kind of wiggle and sway, um, if I needed to. And these are tight enough that they’re not going to come loose, but, uh, I might tighten them up a little bit more just to make sure they don’t wiggle too loose. But this should, uh, allow the engine a lot of free movement so it’s easier for me to get on my stand. So that’s how I got that set up. I have to disconnect the, uh, engine from the transmission.

I need to sleep! You need to sleep? I need to sleep too, kid! Tired? Yeah! Back later! Okay, bye-bye, stinker! Bye, stinker! All right, now that I’ve got the transmission, uh, properly supported and my engine is also supported, I’m going to go ahead and, uh, disconnect the transmission from the engine. I can’t tell you how much easier this is going to be without the chassis and stuff everywhere. Uh, this is like a cakewalk compared to doing it with, uh, you know, a vehicle with all the stuff on it. But, uh, this is my first time ever doing it, so I’m actually really happy that I have this set up like this, um, so I can kind of, you know, cut my teeth on something much simpler. It also gives me an opportunity to show you guys from a very clear angle exactly how this is going to work. So, uh, here we go! I’m going to go ahead and start unloosening the bolts that, uh, keep this thing attached to the engine. I don’t know if my impact would work. Let me see. It’s not a very powerful impact. Ooh, that’s a lot easier! Thanks! So when you guys watch my videos, you’ll notice that I almost always use hand tools and very rarely use power tools for this kind of stuff. I think one of that’s lack of experience and, uh, also because I don’t really have a lot of great power tools. This is the only impact driver that I’ve got, and it’s not air. Eventually, I’d like to get an air impact, some air tools, but right now all I’ve got is this one. But actually, it seems to be working out pretty well, so I will keep using it. I can’t get out of there, so I got a little overzealous. Instead of taking these bolts out, what I really need to do is get underneath there, um, and take off the inspection plate from the bottom of the transmission so I can get the torque converter unbolted and then take the starter off as well. So I’m going to go ahead and work on that. So let’s see if we can get this starter out of here. He’s already got unplugged there. Only just two bolts to it. I don’t know, I ain’t never done this before! Here, that size, you are half inch. Should probably distract those lines. This is a little easier. I’ll let you know when I pull the engine, okay?

All right, now that those lines are out of the way, makes it a bit easier, and there is the starter out, kind of. All right, well, now that the starter is out of there, uh, I can work on the inspection cover of the transmission. Y’all, all right, damn it! That’s a good way to round off both heads. Ah, this is easier! We’re sa—some time from the start. No, you gotta be lazy! Y la, you bastard! Here, look at that! Ooh, I got one right there!

All right, guys, sorry for the glare coming through my garage door. Uh, I gotta leave it open ’cause the truck won’t fit all the way in, so this is what it is. But here you can see the flex plate that’s, uh, actually attached to the engine on one side and the torque converter on the other. Now, I want to disconnect this from the torque converter so the torque converter stays with the transmission and the flex plate stays with the engine. So that’s, uh, this right here is a flex plate. You can see the teeth here that engage with a starter as it turns, right? And there’s, I believe, there’s four of these nuts on here that I gotta get off, right? There’s one there, and you can see one right there as well. But you really want to get to them from through this inspection cover here. And so what I’m going to do is I’m going to go ahead and take this one here off since it’s available to me, and then you turn the engine over with a breaker bar or, uh, you know, a socket set depending on how tough your engine is to turn. Mine is really easy ’cause it’s disconnected from everything. And, uh, get to where you can get another bolt, and you just turn it until you got all four, and then the flex plate is disconnected from the torque converter, and you should be able to just, uh, yank the transmission off or the engine in my case. Oh, that turns on me, does it? All right, so that means I gotta get something in here to keep this from loov. Gotcha! Come on, man! Oh man, these are a pain! One! All right, now we go! Turn the engine! There we go! Blop! All right, flex plate disconnected!

All right, it is time to undo the engine mount bolts. Let’s see if I can get this done. All right, let’s see if we can break her loose. All right, there’s one! All right, guys, I gotta move you out of the way so you don’t get creamed. See if that was enough. Okay, I think she’d be free. Nope! I’m just getting this plate and wiring harness out of the way to make it easier to move around and pull the stuff when the time comes. Also, I don’t want to crunch any of this stuff, and I’m strapping up the transmission to take off the chassis, so just get it out of the way. No dice! Anybody wants to buy me a pneumatic impact for Christmas? Dear Santa, I’ve been a good boy this year!

All right, here we go! Let’s see if I can pull it loose. I’m not quite out of the mount yet. All right, I’m off the mounts now. See if I can get off the transmission without dropping the transmission on the floor here. Oh, I missed one! Missed one bolt right there! Right, and off it comes! That’s been a long time coming to get that engine off of there, but it is finally free!

All right, now that I got the engine off, I’m going to go ahead and, uh, drop this transmission down so that it rests on top of my jack here, just to give it a place to go until I’m ready to actually take it off and move it somewhere else. All right, transmission secure! Now to mount the engine to the stand. All right, let’s see if my impact will take this flex plate off. Looks like a big old no! Santa, if you’re there, air impact gun! All right, now can I get them on? If you had the right size, Ed, maybe! But who knows where you put the right size ’cause you’re always laying tools all over the damn place and not picking them up and putting them where they should be? Let’s see if I can get my breaker on the front of this thing and keep it from moving. Gotcha! Woo! That’s a tight SOB! Uhhuh! One more! Come on! Gotcha! And that’s the flex plate sorted. The, uh, what’s the plate that sits between the engine and the flex plate called? That plate is called the engine spacer plate, or sometimes just the block plate. It sits between the engine block and the flex plate or flywheel and serves a few key purposes: one, alignment; it helps ensure the starter motor meshes properly with the flex plate’s teeth. Two, protection; it acts as a shield to prevent debris from entering the area around the torque converter or flywheel. Three, spacing; it provides the correct spacing for the torque converter and transmission. You want to keep it in good shape, no dents or warping, since a damaged spacer plate can cause alignment issues with the starter or transmission running as a go.

All right, spacer plate off! All right, boys and girls, I think it’s time to get this thing on the stand. That’s probably about right; we’ll leave it there for now. Now, a good friend of mine, my brother-in-law as a matter of fact, gave me a little tip. He said that the best way to do this is to actually take this mounting plate off of your engine stand and mount it to the engine while it’s on your hoist. That way, it’s much easier to line up to the stand; you just slide it right in. So that’s what I’m going to do. I went to a local hardware store. Unfortunately, my Lowe’s and Home Depot didn’t have this stuff. Your mileage may vary on that count; our Lowe’s here is horrible. Uh, anyway, and I got these bolts to mount the, uh, the mount plate to the engine. These are 7/16 by 3 and 1/2 in. Now, these are grade eight bolts. Um, you don’t need grade eight bolts for this. Uh, there’s not going to be any real, you know, sheer forces or any kind of bumping or wiggling or anything on this while you’re out on the stand; you’re just rotating it around. So it doesn’t need to be super strong. Grade five is probably even overkill, uh, but grade eight’s not that much more expensive, so I went ahead and got that. And I’ve got some washers here just for spacers in case, uh, I don’t go in far enough into here. I’m not exactly sure how deep these are, so we’re going to find out.

All right, guys, so if you’re using a Harbor Freight engine stand like I am, then your configuration is like this: you got the two flat slides on top, the two slanty slides on the bottom. I will get these, uh, put in where they got to go and tightened up here, but, uh, yeah, that’s the configuration you’re looking for. This part may be a challenge. Yeah, unfortunately, my legs aren’t letting me do what I want to do here. That’s going to be hard to get the legs down. O, I almost got it! So how am I going to do this part? I’m going to put that brick under there to keep this from falling down sideways when I put the weight on it. We’ll see how that works. Now let’s take it real slow, okay? One thing at a time here, get that up so I can get this down. Don’t try this at home, kids! Success! I’m on the engine stand!

So here is my janky transmission. B-rich, just some ratchet straps in my leveler. Uh, transmission door near as heavy as the engine. Spot fly 170, and, uh, out myber P just going to lift it up, read it over to the side, then back to chassis out. So, uh, I’m not going to mess with it very much up in the air, so hopefully, I like problem with this. Uh, we’re going to find out ’cause I’m about to unbolt it this thing. Now, this is going to be very significantly tied without the edge of the transmission, so I’m not that worried about manling disconnected. So now that the, uh, transmission’s out and chassis is out of the way, the garage is open up again. I can, uh, move my transmission onto a pallet back here so that I can put it up on Craigslist and give her soul. I for an e-war would be automatic transmission, and even if I get someday, that someday is so far away, but it’s not worth it to be three to store. I can try to—well, I know you can’t move it. Want to see if I can move it? Oh, you think you can move it with me? Yeah, it’s strong! Look at you! Think it’s strong? You’re good! All right, wait for me! Hey, wait up! Push hard! Push hard! Ready? Okay, here! Okay, right there! Okay, okay, to push back! Okay, y push! Push! Run away from me! Oh, look! Are you nice? I’m surprised! Are you really? Yes! K! Yep! I need to hold it! Can I do one? Get get him! I’m going to tell Mom! Okay, you go tell Mom! I’m going this way! Okay, you go that way! And that wraps it up! Got the engine out, got the transmission out, ready to go! Stick around because for the next episode, I’m going to be tearing this thing down, taking stuff off, going through it with a fine-tooth comb, and showing you exactly what everything is, what it does, how the engine works, and what to look for when you’re rebuilding your own. So if you’re interested in that kind of stuff, make sure you like and subscribe and stick around for that because, uh, that’s what’s coming up next! Man, I can’t wait! I can’t wait to start building this thing into a 408 monster that’s going to go in my Bullnose God! That’s a dream I’ve been looking forward to for a long time! Guys, if you’re with me on this journey, if you want to see more of this kind of stuff, like I said, give me a like, give me a subscribe! It really does help me out! If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below! Thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time! She’s around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine! That no garage, she’s considered! Thanks again for watching! We will see you next time! Thanks again for watching! We will see you next time!

Santa, forget the socks and ties this year. I need horsepower under the tree. Santa, bring me tools. I’ve got work to do. This wind’s waiting on my stand, and I need some help from you.

A torque wrench for the heads, a home to clean the board, and a breaker bar so I don’t throw my shoulder out no more. Oh, Santa, bring me tools and parts, a camshaft with a low B, some sturdy springs and headers built to make it rain.

Oh, it’s going to be a Bullnose Christmas. The B-no stands ready, the six still pulls its weight, but there’s a wind on the way to make next Christmas great.

I need a ring compressor, plastic gauge from your sack, and if there’s room, a trimming tool. I promise, Chris, I’ll pay you back.

Oh, Santa, bring me tools and parts, a timing chain, some plugs, that SPK, and it didn’t take man A-F. That sing some rockers, rid and molar. Oh, it’s going to be a Bullnose Christmas.

Here’s the deal, Santa. Next Christmas, I’ll hook up the Bullnose to your sleigh and let Rudolph take the night off. No reindeer can match a Ford Windsor in full stride.

Oh, pack your bag tight. My V8 roars into the night. A bench seat where my kids can play. Next year, we’ll cruise on Christmas Day.

Oh, it’s all going to be a Bullnose Christmas. Thanks, Santa. Cookies and milk are by the tree, and if you’ve got a spare set of valve covers, I wouldn’t complain. Merry Christmas from Bullnose Garage.

This is the Ford C6 transmission built by Ford to be a rugged automatic capable of handling their V8 lineup. It’s pulled its weight in everything from daily drivers to stump pullers, off-road rigs, and tire smoking strip machines. Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today we’re shining a spotlight on one of Ford’s toughest and most iconic transmissions, the C6 automatic. Its sheer strength and dead simple design make it a favorite for all kinds of car and truck builds, and it still holds its own in a ton of classic Fords today. But how much do you really know about what’s going on inside that case? Stick around, because by the end of this video, you might just know more than your mechanic does.

Hello, the C6 rolled out in 1966, stepping in for the older MX and FX automatics. Ford needed a gearbox tough enough to handle the muscle of their big V8s like the 429, 460, and the iconic FE series engines. Enter the C6, a three-speed automatic built for serious torque duty. Unlike its cast iron predecessors, the C6 used lighter materials while still delivering solid performance. This transmission quickly earned a name among Ford fans and builders as a gearbox that could handle anything. It stuck around in production until 1997, an impressive 30-plus year run that proved its staying power.

What really makes the C6 stand out is just how many roles it can play. You’ll see it bolted up to everything from small block Windsor to Ford’s massive big blocks and even the International Harvester diesels in Ford’s toughest trucks. But here’s the catch: the bell housing isn’t interchangeable. You’ll need the right C6 for your engine family, and Ford made four main versions: one for the small blocks like the 302 and 351 Windsor, another for the big blocks like the 429 and 460, a version for the FE series engines like the 390 and 428, and the diesel-specific version for engines like the 6.9 and 7.3 L IDI.

Hey guys, future editor Ed here, and I just wanted to make a note that the transmission that you see up on the screen now is the diesel version of the C6. The bell housing is extremely similar to the big block housing for the 460, but there’s a cutout on the bottom for the diesels that’s a little bit different, and also the dowel locations and the holes don’t quite line up between the big block and the diesel bell housings. Now, you can make one fit the other with some modifications, but it’s a bunch of work. So, your best bet if you have a 460 is to go out and find a big block housing. If you’ve got a diesel, go out and find a diesel housing. But just to let you guys know that you can make modifications to make those two interchangeable if you really want to.

And it didn’t stop at cars and trucks. The C6 even powered industrial gear and military vehicles. Its rugged build made it a perfect fit for extreme environments, whether it was digging trenches or rolling through battlefields. Ford hit the jackpot with this one, and the C6’s rock-solid design locked in its legendary status.

Now you might be wondering which vehicles came with the C6. From 1967 to 1996, it was a staple in F-series trucks paired with engines like the 316, 351 Windsor, 390 FE, and 460 big block. It also showed up in Broncos, Galaxies, Mustangs, Cougars, and Thunderbirds, just to name a few. Ford even made 4×4 variants by modifying the tail shaft bolted up directly to transfer cases like the NP 205 and Borg Warner 1356. With all this versatility, it’s no wonder the C6 became Ford’s go-to automatic gearbox for all those years.

Let’s get into the specs. The C6 is a three-speed automatic with gear ratios of 2.46 to 1 in first, 1.46 to 1 in second, and direct 1:1 in third. Reverse comes in at 2.18 to 1. This thing is built tough, tipping the scales around 165 lb dry. The main case, along with the bell housing, is aluminum. Every now and then, you’ll find a cast iron tail shaft, but those are very rare and for specific applications. So generally, the tail shaft will also be cast aluminum. It holds 10 to 12 quarts of Type F fluid, which is famous for its friction properties to give the C6 those crisp, snappy shifts. If you keep up with your fluid changes and filter swaps, this transmission will run smooth for decades.

The C6 wasn’t just tough; it also changed the game with some really clever innovations. One standout feature was Borg Warner’s flexible shift band. Traditional rigid shift bands wore unevenly and led to sloppy shifts over time. The flexible shift band in the C6 wrapped evenly around the drum, delivering smoother, more precise shifts and serious staying power. It’s the kind of thing you just might not notice until it’s not working.

One of the C6’s smartest features is its Simpson planetary gear set. This setup combines two planetary gear assemblies into one compact unit, cutting down on moving parts while cranking up torque transfer. What does that mean for you? Well, it’s less complexity, fewer breakdowns, and better performance, especially when towing or tackling really steep grades. That Simpson gear set is why the C6 can handle heavy loads and big horsepower like a champ, making it a favorite for racers and heavy-duty truck enthusiasts.

Like the C6, it also offered Ford’s select shift capability, letting drivers manually hold the transmission in first, second, or third gear using the column or console shifter. It gave drivers the control they needed for towing, tackling steep grades, or handling rough off-road terrain. Now, while this might sound like a standard feature today thanks to manual modes and paddle shifters, select shift was ahead of its time. With mechanical linkages and internal valves adjusting the gears, it gave drivers a hands-on tactile feel with every shift. Back in the ’60s and ’70s, this feature made the C6 stand out as a driver-focused automatic.

The C6 was sometimes referred to in conjunction with Ford’s select shift Cruisomatic branding, highlighting its smooth shifting and driver control features. Select shift is a key part of that image, proving you could have comfort, capability, and control all in one package.

One of the C6’s biggest strengths is its old school simplicity, which makes it a favorite for installations, swaps, service, and upgrades. Its one-piece design for the bell housing and main case eliminates weak points, making it tough as nails and practically leak-proof. Two big wins over older automatics. Builders love the C6 because it can take on serious horsepower right out of the box, and with a few tweaks, it is practically unstoppable.

Of course, no transmission is perfect, and the C6 is no exception. If the gears start slipping, it’s usually down to worn clutches or low on fluid. Hard shifts, that’s often a sticky valve body. Leaks usually pop up around the pan gasket or seals, especially in older units that haven’t seen regular TLC. Stay on top of fluid changes and keep an eye on seals to head off most problems before they get serious.

There’s also a few other downsides to keep in mind with the C6. The biggest downside is no overdrive gear. At highway speeds, the engine revs pretty high, which kills fuel economy. That’s why a lot of builders looking for modern drivability swap in transmissions like the AOD or E4OD, which come with overdrive. Another drawback is the weight. It’s a hefty unit, and the extra mass can be a concern for certain builds. The C6 also isn’t the most efficient; it eats up more power compared to modern automatics before getting it down to the wheels.

Now let’s talk about hooking it up and plugging it in. The C6’s input shaft has 31 splines at the torque converter end and 30 at the clutch hub. Thanks to its consistent spline design across all the years, torque converters are typically interchangeable across years and models as long as they match the engine family: that small block, big block, FE, or diesel. Ford offered a range of torque converters with stall speeds tailored for specific vehicles and applications. Thankfully, the aftermarket has you covered. If you need something custom, higher stall converters are a favorite for performance builds, while heavy-duty options shine for towing and off-roading. Pick the right converter for your engine’s power band and how you drive, and you’ll squeeze every ounce of performance out of your C6.

Speaking of upgrades, the C6 has one of the best supported aftermarket ecosystems you’re going to find. Shift kits are a go-to upgrade for crisper shifts and less slippage, while high stall converters and steel planetary gears are staples of high-performance builds. Chasing extreme horsepower, builders often even beef up the case and swap in heavy-duty clutches and bands. For off-roaders, a deep transmission pan is a must; it boosts fluid capacity and keeps things cool under tough conditions.

If you’re thinking about alternatives to the C6, the AOD and E4OD, which I mentioned earlier, are worth a look. The AOD throws in an overdrive gear, making it perfect for highway cruising, but don’t expect it to outlast the C6 in terms of toughness. The E4OD, on the other hand, is a heavy-duty four-speed with overdrive built for towing and hauling. It’s more complex and expensive, but it’s a fantastic choice for modernizing old trucks for later duty jobs. The FMX or C4 are solid options; they’re smaller and lighter, and they won’t stand up to the same torque as a C6.

So down to the bottom line: the C6 is a tank, rugged, dependable, and ready for just about anything. It’s right at home in trucks, off-road rigs, or even high-performance street cars—any build where toughness takes a spotlight. Sure, it’s not the most modern or fuel-efficient option, but its simplicity and strength make it a true classic that’s pretty hard to ignore. Whether you’re restoring a classic Ford or dreaming up your next swap, the C6 should definitely make your short list.

All right guys, well there you go. That’s everything that I know or pretend to know about the Ford C6 automatic transmission. Now, I don’t know if you know more than your mechanic does at this point, but you know, I feel like I learned a bunch doing this video. I hope you did too. Guys, if you did, give me a like, give me a subscribe. That really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, if I got something wrong, put them in the comments. I read them all. I really appreciate that. Thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Take her away, get things to shine, and oh, Bullnose Garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Ah, the trusty distributor. If you’ve ever tangled with one of these on a classic like the 351 Windsor, you know it’s equal parts genius design and pure frustration. Does this look familiar to you? Howdy folks, and welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And if you want to see how I wrestled this sucker free, stick around. If you’re here for just a know-how or you’re actually standing over your engine bay right now in a cold sweat wondering how you’re going to pull this thing, no worries, I got your back. Hello!

Now, before I show you how I muscled this bad boy out and how you can do the same if yours is stuck, let’s get the basics out of the way. Think of the distributor as the ignition system’s old school brain. Back before computers took over the heavy lifting, its job was to send high voltage spark to the right cylinder at exactly the right time. Fire too soon and your engine pings like a pinball machine; fire too late and it wheezes like an old accordion. Inside, the rotating shaft driven by the camshaft keeps the spark plugs firing on schedule. Older models ran on mechanical points, but newer ones like most 351 Windsors switch to electronic ignition. Sure, the upgrade made things more reliable, but decades of heat, grime, and let’s be real, neglect can still glue these things in place.

The 351 Windsor distributor keeps things simple and durable, but here’s the catch: the aluminum housing loves bonding with the cast iron block. Throw in years of heat cycles, a sprinkle of oxidation, and voila, your distributor is practically welded in place. Now, distributors have a lot of variation, but I’ll go over the stuff that’s pretty much the same across the board, at least for the 351 Windsor. So up top, we got the cap as we, your spark plug wires and the coil make their connections. If you pop the cap off, you’ll see the contacts that keep each cylinder firing in sync. The rotor here goes around and strikes those contacts, and it spins like a top to deliver sparks from the coil to each terminal as the engine turns.

In the 351 Windsor, this shaft goes out into the engine where the gear here connects to the camshaft. It keeps the whole thing running. The bottom of this shaft here connects to your oil pump through the oil pump drive shaft; that’s what powers your oil pump right there. And then finally, the whole thing secures down into the block with a clamp right here.

All right, let’s tackle the gritty part: pulling that stubborn distributor. If you’re dealing with a decades-old engine like my 351 Windsor, then this process might test your patience. But don’t sweat it; I got a whole toolbox full of tricks to help you out. Start with the basics and work your way up until that distributor finally lets go. Whatever method you pick, step one is going to be soaking the base of the distributor with penetrating oil like PB Blaster, Tri-Flow, or a DIY blend of 50% acetone and 50% ATF. Make it all work wonders. If you can, let it sit overnight first and then repeat the process as much as you need to. Be really, really liberal with it.

The easiest way to start after applying your oil to the base is by tapping the distributor itself with a rubber mallet just a few times. You don’t want to hit it hard; you just want to try to break loose some of that corrosion. You’re not going for brute force; just chock the corrosion loose. And while you’re at it, you can try wiggling the distributor back and forth, either this way or rotating it and then pulling upward with as much force as you can muster. If that doesn’t do the trick on its own, and if you’re here, probably didn’t, then you can carefully break out a pry bar. This was what worked for me. Apply steady upward pressure and try rotating the engine by hand to nudge the camshaft position. This can help for the distributor. Remember that gear that I pointed out earlier? It’s meshing with the camshaft down in there somewhere, so rotating that around can help get things into a more helpful orientation.

As you can see here, I also smacked down on the pry bar with my rubber mallet on the end to try to add some extra shock to the connection with my distributor. And the pry bar I used, there’s a perfect spot to make this work. I don’t know if you can see that very well, but it’s right there. The pry bar goes right up inside underneath here like my fingers are, and it pried up real easy. I think we’re making it, boys and girls! Gotcha! When a plan comes together, take your time and be deliberate. The aluminum housing can scratch and even break pretty easily if you’re not careful. Keep in mind I didn’t have all the rest of the engine parts or truck body in the way, so your mileage may vary. But with penetrating oil, persistence, and some luck, most distributors will come out.

At this point, if prying doesn’t cut it, grab a heat gun or a small propane torch and apply heat to the cast iron around the distributor base. Aluminum expands fast, faster than cast iron. So while the distributor shaft itself will actually expand more than the hole that it’s in when it’s heated, the different expansion rates can actually break the bond. The heat can also soften up the corrosion and debris in the joint, making it easier to free up that distributor. If you can manage to keep the heat to the cast iron and not the aluminum, that might be all it takes for the best results. Alternate between heating the area and letting it cool down. The cycle of expansion and contraction is what can eventually break the hold. Be careful not to overheat one spot and make sure to shield nearby parts like wiring, hoses, and gaskets from too much heat.

If that doesn’t work, another trick you can try is rapidly cooling the base of the distributor with freeze spray or an upside-down can of compressed air. The sudden chill can crack the corrosion and help loosen things up. If you can both heat up the block itself and then rapidly cool the distributor base, it’s the best of both worlds. You can also break out a slide hammer with a special distributor puller attachment. Now, it might mean investing in a specialty tool, but it could be worth it if your distributor is being extra stubborn or if you pull a bunch of them.

You can also try positioning yourself directly above the distributor by standing on a tall ladder or even on the frame or other parts carefully and pulling straight up with your body weight. The goal here is to pull straight up, not at an angle, and that’s a tough thing to do from ground level. So if you can get above it and over top of it, then you can always pull straight up. Building on that idea, you could also rig up a nylon strap or rope around this distributor and hook it to a hoist or a cherry picker. Use the hoist to apply steady upward pressure while giving the distributor a few taps with a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer. You can even leave the hoist pulling overnight while soaking the base with penetrating oil for good measure.

If all else fails and the distributor still won’t budge, it might be time to consider more drastic measures, like choosing violence. Maybe you need to do a partial engine disassembly. Removing the oil pan and oil pump lets you access the oil pump drive shaft passage, and from here, you can slide a long thin steel rod into the passage and carefully tap the bottom of the distributor shaft with a hammer. The goal is to apply direct upward force to pop the shaft loose. While this method can work, it comes with some serious risks. You risk bending the distributor shaft, damaging the gear, or even marring the block. So if you go this route, take it low and remember it’s really only for engines already being rebuilt or replaced.

Once the distributor is out, the hard part’s over, but don’t skip this: clean the bore thoroughly to clear out any corrosion or debris. A dab of anti-seize on the distributor shaft now will save you a ton of hassle next time. Oh, and make sure you double-check your oil pump drive shaft alignment before reinstalling the distributor. Nothing’s worse than putting it all back together and finding out you’ve got no oil pressure. That’s a mistake you only make one time.

And that is the lowdown on distributors, from how they work to wrestle them free. You got a distributor horror story or a trick that I missed? Share it in the comments; I’d love to hear it. I am so glad that I managed to get mine out just going to the pry bar step. I didn’t have to start applying heat and doing everything else, but they can be a bear. But hey, you know, now that I’ve got the distributor out and I also got all the fuel rail stuff and everything off of there, now it’s almost time to pull that thing into the garage and pull that engine off. I am looking forward to it so much. That’s going to be an episode coming up real quick, guys. You don’t want to miss it. Make sure you stay tuned and subscribe if you want to see that stuff. If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, leave it below. Like I said, make sure to subscribe and stick with me while I do this Windsor rebuild. I cannot wait. And guys, thanks again so much for watching. We will see you next time, tinkering away, getting things to shine. That no garage is divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.