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4 years, that’s how long this donor chassis has been rotting in my backyard, mocking me every time I walked past it like it was earning a PhD in Rust and regret. Well, the wait is over. In today’s video, I finally dragged its sorry frame into the garage to kick off this build series from my 351 Windsor into a 408 stroker.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, where small block dreams meet backyard ambition. This isn’t just another project; it’s the start of a long-awaited dream. The day kicked off with a caffeine-fueled tow job where my wife and I, armed with determination and questionable life choices, wrestled that chassis into position. Then, with the help of brute strength, an army of munchkins, and my shiny new floor-mounted shackle with a cal along, we hauled it into the garage.

Once it was in, the real work began. I disconnected everything, yanked the engine out with a hoist, and got it set up on a stand. The transmission soared out of there like it had tickets to a circus audition, straight onto a pallet where it belongs. It’s not your everyday procedure, but hey, I’ll take an easy win when I can get one. But here’s my favorite part: with the dust settled, my 4-year-old stepped in to help manhandle the husk of a chassis and get it parked outside. Seeing her take charge of that big frame was a perfect way to cap off the day.

And now, standing here next to the 351, I’m pumped to finally say we’re ready to tear it down and turn it into the 408 stroker that I’ve been dreaming about. This is the first chapter in an epic saga that promises grease, grit, and enough excitement to keep us all on the edge of our creepers. Let’s get started!

Hello! So today, my goal is to get the drive shaft off, drain the transmission fluid, and drain the oil out of the engine so I could prep to move this thing. If I’ve got time, I might change that front wheel too. So this is a two-piece drive shaft. You can see it goes through a mount point there in the middle, back to the pumpkin, and then, of course, up to the transmission. So, uh, back here, I know I just take these 12-point bolts off here, knock her loose, and drop her down. Um, I’m not sure how to get that off of there, and the transmission just, you just yank out of there. So let’s see if I can, uh, get that figured out.

All right, now that that’s dropped down, I’m going to go back here and, uh, take it off the diff. All right, so now I’ll just yank her out of there and get it out of the way, and I’ll figure out how to separate the two parts of the drive shaft later. It does—there we go. Where’s the drain plug in this son? That can’t be it, there can it? I guess we look it up. All right, so learning stuff every day, guys. It turns out that the E4OD transmission here does not have a drain plug on the pan. A common modification that some folks do is to put a drain plug down underneath there. You just drill a hole and pop a plug in. Um, I might do that, but I think that would get—I would get myself pretty messy drilling a hole in the bottom of the thing full of fluid. I guess it takes like, like four gallons of fluid. Holy hell! All right, well, so I gotta figure out how to drain this thing, and I think I’m just going to end up cracking some bolts on the pan down here and, uh, letting some of it drain out that way. You also have to drain the converter, and there’s a plug up here, uh, underneath for that, and so I have to do that. But it’s a much bigger job than I was anticipating for today. Um, and unfortunately, I don’t have a pan big enough, so I’m going to have to go out and get me a much bigger fluid pan underneath this thing because I don’t want all this transmission fluid spilling all over my nice gravel here, even though I’ve already got quite a bit. And, uh, so, uh, that kind of wraps it for today for me. Uh, I’ll be back, but I think I’m going to go ahead and change this tire out real quick first, uh, so I can at least accomplish something.

Well, guys, today is the day. I’ve got the donor chassis moved out from where it’s been sitting for the last 4 years, right in front of the garage. I’m getting ready to pull this thing into the garage. I’m going to pull this engine and this transmission, and I’m going to bring you along for the whole thing. If you’re new here, this is what I call the donor. I call it that because this engine here is going to be pulled, rebuilt, turned into a 408 stroker. It’s a 351 Windsor right now, turned into a 408 stroker and stuck in that truck right over there eventually. The first step is obviously to get it off of this chassis and tear it down, take a look at it, see what’s going on inside, and then get it off to a machine shop to do all that stuff. But before I can do that, I gotta get it off of here, so I’m all prepared for that. My last video, I took all the accessories and stuff off and, uh, did a little bit of calculation to see how much money I made from that stuff, and this time, like I said, we’re pulling it into the garage, and we’re going to start lifting this engine off and getting it on a stand.

So the first thing I’m going to do is use the new system that I just put into my garage with my, uh, garage floor anchor and the hitch mount that I put in there. I got another video on how I did that. You can come along and, by myself, yank this thing into the garage so that we can get a cherry picker in here and start pulling this engine. Once I’ve got it in the garage, I’ll be putting a jack stand underneath the transmission so the transmission will stay where it is. You gotta block that thing up so that when you disconnect the engine, uh, the transmission doesn’t just flop over or bend your frame, bend the crossmember as you pull the engine out. So, uh, I’m going to do that, and then once I’ve got the transmission, uh, blocked up, I’ll go ahead and start, uh, undoing the engine mount bolts and take this sucker off.

All right, kid, ready for this? Yeah! All right, chat it up, attach it up, attat it. I’m attaching it right here. Hey, come here, you want to try this? Yeah, okay. All you do is just go like this, just move it back and forth. Oh, okay, okay, just be careful with it. All the way back, all the way down, all the way, and then back. It’s a bun! It is! You’re moving a huge vehicle! Look at that! Oh boy, it’s not going up! The bun, it will! Oh, hey Dad, look at you! I can’t, I can’t touch that Fortran hair! Okay, look out, girls! Dad, how did you do that? I didn’t know you could do that! I didn’t know that! Holy moly! Yeah, I think that’s far enough. What do you think? That’s good! That’s good! Heh, put them behind the back wheels, okay? And you put yours behind the front wheels, okay? Okay, good job, good job! Okay, this one, put that one in front. Why? Well, that one will keep you from going forward, just in case.

All right, guys, now that I’ve got this truck in the garage, or what’s left of this truck in the garage, it’s time to support the transmission before I pull the engine. Now, I’m sure most of you guys already know this; it was news to me when I first started out in this whole adventure. The front of the transmission is only supported by its connection to the engine, so there’s nothing underneath the transmission here holding it to the frame of the truck. Now, in the back, there is a crossmember here that holds up the transmission, but the front, there’s nothing. So if you pull the engine without supporting the front of the transmission, it’ll bend down and bend your crossmember and do all kinds of crazy stuff, right? So you’ve got to support the front of your transmission. I am just going to use a jack stand for this. Uh, it’s super simple. Everything that I’m doing here is actually really simple because everything is removed, but it’s kind of cool because now it allows you to kind of see everything that’s going on. So, uh, I got my jack stand and kind of figured out the height here, and it is almost at one click the perfect height to support this transmission. All I gotta do is just jack the truck up just a little bit and get that jack stand under there. So I’m going to go ahead and do that. I’m just going to use a bottle jack for this. Now, I don’t have to go up very much because this jack stand clicked at the first clicker in there is actually just about exactly the right height to go into the—so I just got to come up like less than half an inch to get it up there. And there we go! And now lower this down, I should be pretty tight. So for extra support, I’m also putting my bottle jack with a block of wood underneath the transmission pan. Uh, this I’ve never done this before, so I want to make sure I’m not missing anything, that I’m not going to, um, you know, supporting this this way isn’t enough or, uh, that it wobbles or anything when I’m trying to pull the engine off or anything. So I just want to make sure that I’m good and supported here. So that’s what I’m going to do. I’m just going to go ahead and, uh, support the oil pan area as well with a little bit of pressure, and that way I should be good to go.

And so the next thing that I’m going to do is take the bolts out. What? I’ve never done that before either! Yep, there it is, almost ready to go. See, in this way, since I’ve got this tight, if there’s any wiggling or whatever when I disconnect these, that way this will hold it because you don’t want to leave anything to chance when you’re pulling an engine. This is how you move it; you hold on to this and you push it around. Wow! I a try! Okay, so here we are all hooked up. I just want to kind of show you guys how I have this set up. So this is, uh, obviously a plate that I bought that fits the EFI version of the intake for the 351 Windsor. Uh, fits a bunch of different engines, but it does fit this one. And then I bought a load leveler just to make sure that, uh, nothing goes squirrely on me. And I put the load leveler, uh, chain hooks here through the, uh, the plate that I got. And what this is actually going to allow me to do is, is this—you can’t really do it now because it’s pretty tight, but this can actually move back and forth. There we go! And it lets the engine kind of wiggle and sway, um, if I needed to. And these are tight enough that they’re not going to come loose, but, uh, I might tighten them up a little bit more just to make sure they don’t wiggle too loose. But this should, uh, allow the engine a lot of free movement so it’s easier for me to get on my stand. So that’s how I got that set up. I have to disconnect the, uh, engine from the transmission.

I need to sleep! You need to sleep? I need to sleep too, kid! Tired? Yeah! Back later! Okay, bye-bye, stinker! Bye, stinker! All right, now that I’ve got the transmission, uh, properly supported and my engine is also supported, I’m going to go ahead and, uh, disconnect the transmission from the engine. I can’t tell you how much easier this is going to be without the chassis and stuff everywhere. Uh, this is like a cakewalk compared to doing it with, uh, you know, a vehicle with all the stuff on it. But, uh, this is my first time ever doing it, so I’m actually really happy that I have this set up like this, um, so I can kind of, you know, cut my teeth on something much simpler. It also gives me an opportunity to show you guys from a very clear angle exactly how this is going to work. So, uh, here we go! I’m going to go ahead and start unloosening the bolts that, uh, keep this thing attached to the engine. I don’t know if my impact would work. Let me see. It’s not a very powerful impact. Ooh, that’s a lot easier! Thanks! So when you guys watch my videos, you’ll notice that I almost always use hand tools and very rarely use power tools for this kind of stuff. I think one of that’s lack of experience and, uh, also because I don’t really have a lot of great power tools. This is the only impact driver that I’ve got, and it’s not air. Eventually, I’d like to get an air impact, some air tools, but right now all I’ve got is this one. But actually, it seems to be working out pretty well, so I will keep using it. I can’t get out of there, so I got a little overzealous. Instead of taking these bolts out, what I really need to do is get underneath there, um, and take off the inspection plate from the bottom of the transmission so I can get the torque converter unbolted and then take the starter off as well. So I’m going to go ahead and work on that. So let’s see if we can get this starter out of here. He’s already got unplugged there. Only just two bolts to it. I don’t know, I ain’t never done this before! Here, that size, you are half inch. Should probably distract those lines. This is a little easier. I’ll let you know when I pull the engine, okay?

All right, now that those lines are out of the way, makes it a bit easier, and there is the starter out, kind of. All right, well, now that the starter is out of there, uh, I can work on the inspection cover of the transmission. Y’all, all right, damn it! That’s a good way to round off both heads. Ah, this is easier! We’re sa—some time from the start. No, you gotta be lazy! Y la, you bastard! Here, look at that! Ooh, I got one right there!

All right, guys, sorry for the glare coming through my garage door. Uh, I gotta leave it open ’cause the truck won’t fit all the way in, so this is what it is. But here you can see the flex plate that’s, uh, actually attached to the engine on one side and the torque converter on the other. Now, I want to disconnect this from the torque converter so the torque converter stays with the transmission and the flex plate stays with the engine. So that’s, uh, this right here is a flex plate. You can see the teeth here that engage with a starter as it turns, right? And there’s, I believe, there’s four of these nuts on here that I gotta get off, right? There’s one there, and you can see one right there as well. But you really want to get to them from through this inspection cover here. And so what I’m going to do is I’m going to go ahead and take this one here off since it’s available to me, and then you turn the engine over with a breaker bar or, uh, you know, a socket set depending on how tough your engine is to turn. Mine is really easy ’cause it’s disconnected from everything. And, uh, get to where you can get another bolt, and you just turn it until you got all four, and then the flex plate is disconnected from the torque converter, and you should be able to just, uh, yank the transmission off or the engine in my case. Oh, that turns on me, does it? All right, so that means I gotta get something in here to keep this from loov. Gotcha! Come on, man! Oh man, these are a pain! One! All right, now we go! Turn the engine! There we go! Blop! All right, flex plate disconnected!

All right, it is time to undo the engine mount bolts. Let’s see if I can get this done. All right, let’s see if we can break her loose. All right, there’s one! All right, guys, I gotta move you out of the way so you don’t get creamed. See if that was enough. Okay, I think she’d be free. Nope! I’m just getting this plate and wiring harness out of the way to make it easier to move around and pull the stuff when the time comes. Also, I don’t want to crunch any of this stuff, and I’m strapping up the transmission to take off the chassis, so just get it out of the way. No dice! Anybody wants to buy me a pneumatic impact for Christmas? Dear Santa, I’ve been a good boy this year!

All right, here we go! Let’s see if I can pull it loose. I’m not quite out of the mount yet. All right, I’m off the mounts now. See if I can get off the transmission without dropping the transmission on the floor here. Oh, I missed one! Missed one bolt right there! Right, and off it comes! That’s been a long time coming to get that engine off of there, but it is finally free!

All right, now that I got the engine off, I’m going to go ahead and, uh, drop this transmission down so that it rests on top of my jack here, just to give it a place to go until I’m ready to actually take it off and move it somewhere else. All right, transmission secure! Now to mount the engine to the stand. All right, let’s see if my impact will take this flex plate off. Looks like a big old no! Santa, if you’re there, air impact gun! All right, now can I get them on? If you had the right size, Ed, maybe! But who knows where you put the right size ’cause you’re always laying tools all over the damn place and not picking them up and putting them where they should be? Let’s see if I can get my breaker on the front of this thing and keep it from moving. Gotcha! Woo! That’s a tight SOB! Uhhuh! One more! Come on! Gotcha! And that’s the flex plate sorted. The, uh, what’s the plate that sits between the engine and the flex plate called? That plate is called the engine spacer plate, or sometimes just the block plate. It sits between the engine block and the flex plate or flywheel and serves a few key purposes: one, alignment; it helps ensure the starter motor meshes properly with the flex plate’s teeth. Two, protection; it acts as a shield to prevent debris from entering the area around the torque converter or flywheel. Three, spacing; it provides the correct spacing for the torque converter and transmission. You want to keep it in good shape, no dents or warping, since a damaged spacer plate can cause alignment issues with the starter or transmission running as a go.

All right, spacer plate off! All right, boys and girls, I think it’s time to get this thing on the stand. That’s probably about right; we’ll leave it there for now. Now, a good friend of mine, my brother-in-law as a matter of fact, gave me a little tip. He said that the best way to do this is to actually take this mounting plate off of your engine stand and mount it to the engine while it’s on your hoist. That way, it’s much easier to line up to the stand; you just slide it right in. So that’s what I’m going to do. I went to a local hardware store. Unfortunately, my Lowe’s and Home Depot didn’t have this stuff. Your mileage may vary on that count; our Lowe’s here is horrible. Uh, anyway, and I got these bolts to mount the, uh, the mount plate to the engine. These are 7/16 by 3 and 1/2 in. Now, these are grade eight bolts. Um, you don’t need grade eight bolts for this. Uh, there’s not going to be any real, you know, sheer forces or any kind of bumping or wiggling or anything on this while you’re out on the stand; you’re just rotating it around. So it doesn’t need to be super strong. Grade five is probably even overkill, uh, but grade eight’s not that much more expensive, so I went ahead and got that. And I’ve got some washers here just for spacers in case, uh, I don’t go in far enough into here. I’m not exactly sure how deep these are, so we’re going to find out.

All right, guys, so if you’re using a Harbor Freight engine stand like I am, then your configuration is like this: you got the two flat slides on top, the two slanty slides on the bottom. I will get these, uh, put in where they got to go and tightened up here, but, uh, yeah, that’s the configuration you’re looking for. This part may be a challenge. Yeah, unfortunately, my legs aren’t letting me do what I want to do here. That’s going to be hard to get the legs down. O, I almost got it! So how am I going to do this part? I’m going to put that brick under there to keep this from falling down sideways when I put the weight on it. We’ll see how that works. Now let’s take it real slow, okay? One thing at a time here, get that up so I can get this down. Don’t try this at home, kids! Success! I’m on the engine stand!

So here is my janky transmission. B-rich, just some ratchet straps in my leveler. Uh, transmission door near as heavy as the engine. Spot fly 170, and, uh, out myber P just going to lift it up, read it over to the side, then back to chassis out. So, uh, I’m not going to mess with it very much up in the air, so hopefully, I like problem with this. Uh, we’re going to find out ’cause I’m about to unbolt it this thing. Now, this is going to be very significantly tied without the edge of the transmission, so I’m not that worried about manling disconnected. So now that the, uh, transmission’s out and chassis is out of the way, the garage is open up again. I can, uh, move my transmission onto a pallet back here so that I can put it up on Craigslist and give her soul. I for an e-war would be automatic transmission, and even if I get someday, that someday is so far away, but it’s not worth it to be three to store. I can try to—well, I know you can’t move it. Want to see if I can move it? Oh, you think you can move it with me? Yeah, it’s strong! Look at you! Think it’s strong? You’re good! All right, wait for me! Hey, wait up! Push hard! Push hard! Ready? Okay, here! Okay, right there! Okay, okay, to push back! Okay, y push! Push! Run away from me! Oh, look! Are you nice? I’m surprised! Are you really? Yes! K! Yep! I need to hold it! Can I do one? Get get him! I’m going to tell Mom! Okay, you go tell Mom! I’m going this way! Okay, you go that way! And that wraps it up! Got the engine out, got the transmission out, ready to go! Stick around because for the next episode, I’m going to be tearing this thing down, taking stuff off, going through it with a fine-tooth comb, and showing you exactly what everything is, what it does, how the engine works, and what to look for when you’re rebuilding your own. So if you’re interested in that kind of stuff, make sure you like and subscribe and stick around for that because, uh, that’s what’s coming up next! Man, I can’t wait! I can’t wait to start building this thing into a 408 monster that’s going to go in my Bullnose God! That’s a dream I’ve been looking forward to for a long time! Guys, if you’re with me on this journey, if you want to see more of this kind of stuff, like I said, give me a like, give me a subscribe! It really does help me out! If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below! Thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time! She’s around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine! That no garage, she’s considered! Thanks again for watching! We will see you next time! Thanks again for watching! We will see you next time!

Santa, forget the socks and ties this year. I need horsepower under the tree. Santa, bring me tools. I’ve got work to do. This wind’s waiting on my stand, and I need some help from you.

A torque wrench for the heads, a home to clean the board, and a breaker bar so I don’t throw my shoulder out no more. Oh, Santa, bring me tools and parts, a camshaft with a low B, some sturdy springs and headers built to make it rain.

Oh, it’s going to be a Bullnose Christmas. The B-no stands ready, the six still pulls its weight, but there’s a wind on the way to make next Christmas great.

I need a ring compressor, plastic gauge from your sack, and if there’s room, a trimming tool. I promise, Chris, I’ll pay you back.

Oh, Santa, bring me tools and parts, a timing chain, some plugs, that SPK, and it didn’t take man A-F. That sing some rockers, rid and molar. Oh, it’s going to be a Bullnose Christmas.

Here’s the deal, Santa. Next Christmas, I’ll hook up the Bullnose to your sleigh and let Rudolph take the night off. No reindeer can match a Ford Windsor in full stride.

Oh, pack your bag tight. My V8 roars into the night. A bench seat where my kids can play. Next year, we’ll cruise on Christmas Day.

Oh, it’s all going to be a Bullnose Christmas. Thanks, Santa. Cookies and milk are by the tree, and if you’ve got a spare set of valve covers, I wouldn’t complain. Merry Christmas from Bullnose Garage.

This is the Ford C6 transmission built by Ford to be a rugged automatic capable of handling their V8 lineup. It’s pulled its weight in everything from daily drivers to stump pullers, off-road rigs, and tire smoking strip machines. Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today we’re shining a spotlight on one of Ford’s toughest and most iconic transmissions, the C6 automatic. Its sheer strength and dead simple design make it a favorite for all kinds of car and truck builds, and it still holds its own in a ton of classic Fords today. But how much do you really know about what’s going on inside that case? Stick around, because by the end of this video, you might just know more than your mechanic does.

Hello, the C6 rolled out in 1966, stepping in for the older MX and FX automatics. Ford needed a gearbox tough enough to handle the muscle of their big V8s like the 429, 460, and the iconic FE series engines. Enter the C6, a three-speed automatic built for serious torque duty. Unlike its cast iron predecessors, the C6 used lighter materials while still delivering solid performance. This transmission quickly earned a name among Ford fans and builders as a gearbox that could handle anything. It stuck around in production until 1997, an impressive 30-plus year run that proved its staying power.

What really makes the C6 stand out is just how many roles it can play. You’ll see it bolted up to everything from small block Windsor to Ford’s massive big blocks and even the International Harvester diesels in Ford’s toughest trucks. But here’s the catch: the bell housing isn’t interchangeable. You’ll need the right C6 for your engine family, and Ford made four main versions: one for the small blocks like the 302 and 351 Windsor, another for the big blocks like the 429 and 460, a version for the FE series engines like the 390 and 428, and the diesel-specific version for engines like the 6.9 and 7.3 L IDI.

Hey guys, future editor Ed here, and I just wanted to make a note that the transmission that you see up on the screen now is the diesel version of the C6. The bell housing is extremely similar to the big block housing for the 460, but there’s a cutout on the bottom for the diesels that’s a little bit different, and also the dowel locations and the holes don’t quite line up between the big block and the diesel bell housings. Now, you can make one fit the other with some modifications, but it’s a bunch of work. So, your best bet if you have a 460 is to go out and find a big block housing. If you’ve got a diesel, go out and find a diesel housing. But just to let you guys know that you can make modifications to make those two interchangeable if you really want to.

And it didn’t stop at cars and trucks. The C6 even powered industrial gear and military vehicles. Its rugged build made it a perfect fit for extreme environments, whether it was digging trenches or rolling through battlefields. Ford hit the jackpot with this one, and the C6’s rock-solid design locked in its legendary status.

Now you might be wondering which vehicles came with the C6. From 1967 to 1996, it was a staple in F-series trucks paired with engines like the 316, 351 Windsor, 390 FE, and 460 big block. It also showed up in Broncos, Galaxies, Mustangs, Cougars, and Thunderbirds, just to name a few. Ford even made 4×4 variants by modifying the tail shaft bolted up directly to transfer cases like the NP 205 and Borg Warner 1356. With all this versatility, it’s no wonder the C6 became Ford’s go-to automatic gearbox for all those years.

Let’s get into the specs. The C6 is a three-speed automatic with gear ratios of 2.46 to 1 in first, 1.46 to 1 in second, and direct 1:1 in third. Reverse comes in at 2.18 to 1. This thing is built tough, tipping the scales around 165 lb dry. The main case, along with the bell housing, is aluminum. Every now and then, you’ll find a cast iron tail shaft, but those are very rare and for specific applications. So generally, the tail shaft will also be cast aluminum. It holds 10 to 12 quarts of Type F fluid, which is famous for its friction properties to give the C6 those crisp, snappy shifts. If you keep up with your fluid changes and filter swaps, this transmission will run smooth for decades.

The C6 wasn’t just tough; it also changed the game with some really clever innovations. One standout feature was Borg Warner’s flexible shift band. Traditional rigid shift bands wore unevenly and led to sloppy shifts over time. The flexible shift band in the C6 wrapped evenly around the drum, delivering smoother, more precise shifts and serious staying power. It’s the kind of thing you just might not notice until it’s not working.

One of the C6’s smartest features is its Simpson planetary gear set. This setup combines two planetary gear assemblies into one compact unit, cutting down on moving parts while cranking up torque transfer. What does that mean for you? Well, it’s less complexity, fewer breakdowns, and better performance, especially when towing or tackling really steep grades. That Simpson gear set is why the C6 can handle heavy loads and big horsepower like a champ, making it a favorite for racers and heavy-duty truck enthusiasts.

Like the C6, it also offered Ford’s select shift capability, letting drivers manually hold the transmission in first, second, or third gear using the column or console shifter. It gave drivers the control they needed for towing, tackling steep grades, or handling rough off-road terrain. Now, while this might sound like a standard feature today thanks to manual modes and paddle shifters, select shift was ahead of its time. With mechanical linkages and internal valves adjusting the gears, it gave drivers a hands-on tactile feel with every shift. Back in the ’60s and ’70s, this feature made the C6 stand out as a driver-focused automatic.

The C6 was sometimes referred to in conjunction with Ford’s select shift Cruisomatic branding, highlighting its smooth shifting and driver control features. Select shift is a key part of that image, proving you could have comfort, capability, and control all in one package.

One of the C6’s biggest strengths is its old school simplicity, which makes it a favorite for installations, swaps, service, and upgrades. Its one-piece design for the bell housing and main case eliminates weak points, making it tough as nails and practically leak-proof. Two big wins over older automatics. Builders love the C6 because it can take on serious horsepower right out of the box, and with a few tweaks, it is practically unstoppable.

Of course, no transmission is perfect, and the C6 is no exception. If the gears start slipping, it’s usually down to worn clutches or low on fluid. Hard shifts, that’s often a sticky valve body. Leaks usually pop up around the pan gasket or seals, especially in older units that haven’t seen regular TLC. Stay on top of fluid changes and keep an eye on seals to head off most problems before they get serious.

There’s also a few other downsides to keep in mind with the C6. The biggest downside is no overdrive gear. At highway speeds, the engine revs pretty high, which kills fuel economy. That’s why a lot of builders looking for modern drivability swap in transmissions like the AOD or E4OD, which come with overdrive. Another drawback is the weight. It’s a hefty unit, and the extra mass can be a concern for certain builds. The C6 also isn’t the most efficient; it eats up more power compared to modern automatics before getting it down to the wheels.

Now let’s talk about hooking it up and plugging it in. The C6’s input shaft has 31 splines at the torque converter end and 30 at the clutch hub. Thanks to its consistent spline design across all the years, torque converters are typically interchangeable across years and models as long as they match the engine family: that small block, big block, FE, or diesel. Ford offered a range of torque converters with stall speeds tailored for specific vehicles and applications. Thankfully, the aftermarket has you covered. If you need something custom, higher stall converters are a favorite for performance builds, while heavy-duty options shine for towing and off-roading. Pick the right converter for your engine’s power band and how you drive, and you’ll squeeze every ounce of performance out of your C6.

Speaking of upgrades, the C6 has one of the best supported aftermarket ecosystems you’re going to find. Shift kits are a go-to upgrade for crisper shifts and less slippage, while high stall converters and steel planetary gears are staples of high-performance builds. Chasing extreme horsepower, builders often even beef up the case and swap in heavy-duty clutches and bands. For off-roaders, a deep transmission pan is a must; it boosts fluid capacity and keeps things cool under tough conditions.

If you’re thinking about alternatives to the C6, the AOD and E4OD, which I mentioned earlier, are worth a look. The AOD throws in an overdrive gear, making it perfect for highway cruising, but don’t expect it to outlast the C6 in terms of toughness. The E4OD, on the other hand, is a heavy-duty four-speed with overdrive built for towing and hauling. It’s more complex and expensive, but it’s a fantastic choice for modernizing old trucks for later duty jobs. The FMX or C4 are solid options; they’re smaller and lighter, and they won’t stand up to the same torque as a C6.

So down to the bottom line: the C6 is a tank, rugged, dependable, and ready for just about anything. It’s right at home in trucks, off-road rigs, or even high-performance street cars—any build where toughness takes a spotlight. Sure, it’s not the most modern or fuel-efficient option, but its simplicity and strength make it a true classic that’s pretty hard to ignore. Whether you’re restoring a classic Ford or dreaming up your next swap, the C6 should definitely make your short list.

All right guys, well there you go. That’s everything that I know or pretend to know about the Ford C6 automatic transmission. Now, I don’t know if you know more than your mechanic does at this point, but you know, I feel like I learned a bunch doing this video. I hope you did too. Guys, if you did, give me a like, give me a subscribe. That really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, if I got something wrong, put them in the comments. I read them all. I really appreciate that. Thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time. She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Take her away, get things to shine, and oh, Bullnose Garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Ah, the trusty distributor. If you’ve ever tangled with one of these on a classic like the 351 Windsor, you know it’s equal parts genius design and pure frustration. Does this look familiar to you? Howdy folks, and welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And if you want to see how I wrestled this sucker free, stick around. If you’re here for just a know-how or you’re actually standing over your engine bay right now in a cold sweat wondering how you’re going to pull this thing, no worries, I got your back. Hello!

Now, before I show you how I muscled this bad boy out and how you can do the same if yours is stuck, let’s get the basics out of the way. Think of the distributor as the ignition system’s old school brain. Back before computers took over the heavy lifting, its job was to send high voltage spark to the right cylinder at exactly the right time. Fire too soon and your engine pings like a pinball machine; fire too late and it wheezes like an old accordion. Inside, the rotating shaft driven by the camshaft keeps the spark plugs firing on schedule. Older models ran on mechanical points, but newer ones like most 351 Windsors switch to electronic ignition. Sure, the upgrade made things more reliable, but decades of heat, grime, and let’s be real, neglect can still glue these things in place.

The 351 Windsor distributor keeps things simple and durable, but here’s the catch: the aluminum housing loves bonding with the cast iron block. Throw in years of heat cycles, a sprinkle of oxidation, and voila, your distributor is practically welded in place. Now, distributors have a lot of variation, but I’ll go over the stuff that’s pretty much the same across the board, at least for the 351 Windsor. So up top, we got the cap as we, your spark plug wires and the coil make their connections. If you pop the cap off, you’ll see the contacts that keep each cylinder firing in sync. The rotor here goes around and strikes those contacts, and it spins like a top to deliver sparks from the coil to each terminal as the engine turns.

In the 351 Windsor, this shaft goes out into the engine where the gear here connects to the camshaft. It keeps the whole thing running. The bottom of this shaft here connects to your oil pump through the oil pump drive shaft; that’s what powers your oil pump right there. And then finally, the whole thing secures down into the block with a clamp right here.

All right, let’s tackle the gritty part: pulling that stubborn distributor. If you’re dealing with a decades-old engine like my 351 Windsor, then this process might test your patience. But don’t sweat it; I got a whole toolbox full of tricks to help you out. Start with the basics and work your way up until that distributor finally lets go. Whatever method you pick, step one is going to be soaking the base of the distributor with penetrating oil like PB Blaster, Tri-Flow, or a DIY blend of 50% acetone and 50% ATF. Make it all work wonders. If you can, let it sit overnight first and then repeat the process as much as you need to. Be really, really liberal with it.

The easiest way to start after applying your oil to the base is by tapping the distributor itself with a rubber mallet just a few times. You don’t want to hit it hard; you just want to try to break loose some of that corrosion. You’re not going for brute force; just chock the corrosion loose. And while you’re at it, you can try wiggling the distributor back and forth, either this way or rotating it and then pulling upward with as much force as you can muster. If that doesn’t do the trick on its own, and if you’re here, probably didn’t, then you can carefully break out a pry bar. This was what worked for me. Apply steady upward pressure and try rotating the engine by hand to nudge the camshaft position. This can help for the distributor. Remember that gear that I pointed out earlier? It’s meshing with the camshaft down in there somewhere, so rotating that around can help get things into a more helpful orientation.

As you can see here, I also smacked down on the pry bar with my rubber mallet on the end to try to add some extra shock to the connection with my distributor. And the pry bar I used, there’s a perfect spot to make this work. I don’t know if you can see that very well, but it’s right there. The pry bar goes right up inside underneath here like my fingers are, and it pried up real easy. I think we’re making it, boys and girls! Gotcha! When a plan comes together, take your time and be deliberate. The aluminum housing can scratch and even break pretty easily if you’re not careful. Keep in mind I didn’t have all the rest of the engine parts or truck body in the way, so your mileage may vary. But with penetrating oil, persistence, and some luck, most distributors will come out.

At this point, if prying doesn’t cut it, grab a heat gun or a small propane torch and apply heat to the cast iron around the distributor base. Aluminum expands fast, faster than cast iron. So while the distributor shaft itself will actually expand more than the hole that it’s in when it’s heated, the different expansion rates can actually break the bond. The heat can also soften up the corrosion and debris in the joint, making it easier to free up that distributor. If you can manage to keep the heat to the cast iron and not the aluminum, that might be all it takes for the best results. Alternate between heating the area and letting it cool down. The cycle of expansion and contraction is what can eventually break the hold. Be careful not to overheat one spot and make sure to shield nearby parts like wiring, hoses, and gaskets from too much heat.

If that doesn’t work, another trick you can try is rapidly cooling the base of the distributor with freeze spray or an upside-down can of compressed air. The sudden chill can crack the corrosion and help loosen things up. If you can both heat up the block itself and then rapidly cool the distributor base, it’s the best of both worlds. You can also break out a slide hammer with a special distributor puller attachment. Now, it might mean investing in a specialty tool, but it could be worth it if your distributor is being extra stubborn or if you pull a bunch of them.

You can also try positioning yourself directly above the distributor by standing on a tall ladder or even on the frame or other parts carefully and pulling straight up with your body weight. The goal here is to pull straight up, not at an angle, and that’s a tough thing to do from ground level. So if you can get above it and over top of it, then you can always pull straight up. Building on that idea, you could also rig up a nylon strap or rope around this distributor and hook it to a hoist or a cherry picker. Use the hoist to apply steady upward pressure while giving the distributor a few taps with a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer. You can even leave the hoist pulling overnight while soaking the base with penetrating oil for good measure.

If all else fails and the distributor still won’t budge, it might be time to consider more drastic measures, like choosing violence. Maybe you need to do a partial engine disassembly. Removing the oil pan and oil pump lets you access the oil pump drive shaft passage, and from here, you can slide a long thin steel rod into the passage and carefully tap the bottom of the distributor shaft with a hammer. The goal is to apply direct upward force to pop the shaft loose. While this method can work, it comes with some serious risks. You risk bending the distributor shaft, damaging the gear, or even marring the block. So if you go this route, take it low and remember it’s really only for engines already being rebuilt or replaced.

Once the distributor is out, the hard part’s over, but don’t skip this: clean the bore thoroughly to clear out any corrosion or debris. A dab of anti-seize on the distributor shaft now will save you a ton of hassle next time. Oh, and make sure you double-check your oil pump drive shaft alignment before reinstalling the distributor. Nothing’s worse than putting it all back together and finding out you’ve got no oil pressure. That’s a mistake you only make one time.

And that is the lowdown on distributors, from how they work to wrestle them free. You got a distributor horror story or a trick that I missed? Share it in the comments; I’d love to hear it. I am so glad that I managed to get mine out just going to the pry bar step. I didn’t have to start applying heat and doing everything else, but they can be a bear. But hey, you know, now that I’ve got the distributor out and I also got all the fuel rail stuff and everything off of there, now it’s almost time to pull that thing into the garage and pull that engine off. I am looking forward to it so much. That’s going to be an episode coming up real quick, guys. You don’t want to miss it. Make sure you stay tuned and subscribe if you want to see that stuff. If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, leave it below. Like I said, make sure to subscribe and stick with me while I do this Windsor rebuild. I cannot wait. And guys, thanks again so much for watching. We will see you next time, tinkering away, getting things to shine. That no garage is divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Do you ever feel like there’s a silent thief lurking in the bowels of your ride, stealing your performance, wrapping your precious horsepower up in endless red tape, and literally choking off the airflow that makes your engine come to life? Yeah, I’m talking about emissions, specifically catalytic converters. Power robbing, crime inspiring, and pocketbook draining cats are a double-edged sword of eco-responsibility and pain. But here’s the thing: you can do something to take back some of that power. Today, we’re talking about cat options, from keeping your ride stock all the way to cutting the cats out completely. Specifically, we’ll talk about high flow cats, how they work, what they can do for you, and I’ll check out the ones that just landed on my workbench, courtesy of Dinox. But don’t get too excited just yet. High flow cats can definitely give you back some of the horsepower that the EPA stole from your ride, but you might think twice when Johnny Law comes knocking. Dramatic? Maybe, but it’s definitely something you need to know. Stick around.

Hello! Now, before we dig into the nitty-gritty, I need to give a shout out to Dinox for sending me these high flow cats. They’re a great example of the kind of equipment I’ll be talking about. And if you want to grab a set for yourself, Dinox’s Black Friday sale kicks off on November 27th and runs through December 2nd, offering up to 50% off. So if you’re looking to nab some exhaust or intake parts, this is the time to strike. I’ll circle back with some more details.

Okay, so let’s kick things off with the basics. A catalytic converter is a component of your exhaust system responsible for cleaning up the exhaust gases before they exit the tailpipe. Inside, you’ll find metals like platinum, palladium, and rhodium, the MVPs of emissions control. These metals work like catalysts, starting up chemical reactions without burning out in the process. They’re also why some sketchy characters love to hack your cat off with a saw. Those metals are worth a boatload, even in the small quantities you find in a catalytic converter. Catalytic converters pull off a nifty bit of chemistry to break down pollutants. There are two stages to the job that they do. In the reduction stage, platinum and rhodium split nitrogen oxides into harmless nitrogen and oxygen, cutting down smog forming emissions. Next up is the oxidation stage, where platinum and palladium make carbon monoxide, a toxic gas, react with oxygen to become carbon dioxide. Any unburned hydrocarbons are also oxidized, turning into CO2 and water vapor. Think of it like a little high temp lab under your car, turning nasty exhaust into something a bit more eco-friendly.

OEM cats are all about compliance, standardization, and appealing to the mass market. That means hitting strict emissions targets, cutting costs, and keeping things quiet. Horsepower? Not a top priority. Because of that, they tend to choke your exhaust flow in order to meet their main objectives. High flow cats, though, are built for performance. They’re designed to let more exhaust pass through with less resistance. It’s kind of like trying to sip a thick milkshake through a tiny straw versus taking a big gulp through a wide straw. The benefit is less back pressure, and that means better exhaust scavenging, which translates into improved horsepower and torque. Now, for those running performance mods like aftermarket headers, camshafts, or stroker builds like my upcoming 408 stroker Windsor here, high flow cats can make a measurable difference.

High flow cats use more open cell substrates with strategically placed channels to keep exhaust flowing efficiently while still catalyzing those gases. Most high quality models, like this 3-inch unit from Dinox here, feature stainless steel construction for durability against heat and corrosion. The cells per square inch, or CPSI rating, in high flow cats is lower than in OEM units. Lower CPSI means fewer tiny channels for gases to navigate, reducing restriction. But don’t worry, these cats still do their job at cleaning emissions, though they may not be certified to do it. That certification can be a bit of a problem when it comes to federal or state compliance with emission laws. Here’s where things can get a bit controversial, especially with gear heads and shade tree mechanics. Most high flow cats, like these, are not federally compliant.

Okay, so let’s get into why compliance matters. CARB, or the California Resources Board, sets the gold standard for emissions regulations, which a few states use as a benchmark. If it isn’t CARB compliant, it doesn’t meet their rigorous standards. These non-compliant cats, like the Dinox cats I’ve got here, can’t legally be sold or used in states with CARB regulations. That’s California, New York, Maine, and Colorado. Why? Well, CARB compliant units have additional testing and require certification to meet stricter emission targets. So if you’re in or plan to sell your vehicle in one of those states, you got to keep that on your radar. It could mean the difference between passing emissions or failing. My state, New Mexico, doesn’t currently follow CARB, so I was able to get my hands on these. Also, keep in mind that modifying your exhaust or emission system, including adding high flow cats that aren’t EPA certified, constitutes tampering as far as the EPA and federal government are concerned. Tampering is a specific term, and that means installing these on your vehicle to replace your stock cats can be a bit problematic in terms of legality on a federal level, even if they’ll work as well as a certified unit and they’re legal in your state. I won’t tell if you won’t.

All right, so let’s take a look at these Dinox units themselves. Right out of the box, they look like they’re pretty high quality, made out of stainless steel, which is great when you’re dealing with temperatures up to 1200°F in your exhaust. So you definitely want something that’s nice and robust there. And you know, I haven’t put these on, obviously. I haven’t tested them yet, but they look good. I did a review of some Dinox headers a couple months ago, and they looked really good too. So, you know, the quality seems to be there. As I’m looking through, you can see where the high flow channels all are in there. You can see right through it. Looks really good. I don’t see any debris. I don’t see any broken bits. I don’t see anything in here that would indicate to me that it’s not high quality. So I am really looking forward to getting these on the vehicle and seeing how they sound and seeing how they work. So, yeah, I’m pretty impressed with these units I got from Dinox. So, shout out to those guys. We’ll see if they live up to the hype.

Installing a high flow cat is pretty straightforward if you’re handy with an angle grinder and a welder. Remember, positioning is key. You want it close enough to the engine to heat up quickly, but far enough down the line to avoid excessive back pressure. Always test fit your new cat, check clearances around your undercarriage, and, you know, make sure that it’s going to fit. A misstep here can lead to rattles, leaks, or even worse. High flow catalytic converters really come into their own when they’re used in a modified vehicle with higher than stock airflow requirements. If you’re rocking a turbo setup or even a naturally aspirated engine with some serious upgrades, that’s where high flow cats start paying dividends. If your car or truck is just a weekend grocery getter that’s more or less stock, high flow is going to be overkill. There’s a lot of other more effective, less controversial mods you should probably do first. But for anyone with a build designed to breathe freely and rev high, that’s a performance edge worth considering, especially if you’re rebuilding it anyway.

So let’s take a moment and talk about the possibility of running an exhaust setup without catalytic converters at all. It’s an option some performance enthusiasts choose because it completely eliminates exhaust restriction, which can result in even more horsepower. But here’s the trade-off: no cats mean more pollutants and potential much louder exhaust notes. And while it might be tempting to ditch the cats entirely for the sake of raw performance and more noise, it comes with its own set of challenges. Not only are catless builds illegal for street use in most places, but they can also trigger check engine lights and issues with your vehicle’s ECU. Even if it’s strictly on an older vehicle without those issues, it’s not a great environmental choice. That’s something you have to decide for yourself. That’s where high flow cats come in as a smarter middle ground. They allow you to maintain a respectable level of emission control, stay compliant in less restrictive areas, and still reap the benefits of better flow and power gains. Plus, they help avoid some of the complications that come with going fully catless, like failed inspections, binds, or ECU and check engine lights. So if you’re looking for a balance between power and practicality, high flow cats might just be the way to go. That’s why I’m choosing these for my build for those very reasons.

One other thing to keep in mind is that high flow cats can sometimes lose efficiency faster than their stock counterparts due to their more open design. Now, while you can’t exactly service a catalytic converter like other parts, there are a few preventive measures you can take to keep them functioning well. Regularly checking your exhaust leaks, ensuring the fuel mixture isn’t running too rich, which can clog the cat with unburned fuel, and keeping the engine in good tune will help prolong the life of your catalytic converter. High flow cats can be extra sensitive to contaminants, so using high quality fuel and avoiding oil burning is also a good thing to remember.

So before we wrap things up, just a reminder: Dinox’s Black Friday event starts November 27th and runs through December 2nd, up to 50% off. It is definitely worth checking out, especially if you’re considering an upgrade. Go check them out at dinoxparts.com, that’s dinoxparts.com. All the information will be down in the description below. A shout out to Dinox for sending me these cats. They’re not paying me for this review; they just sent these to me and asked me to put something up about them, and I thought that’d be a great opportunity to explain how high flow cats work and go through the whole thing. So thanks again, Dinox, for reaching out and supporting a small channel like myself. I really appreciate that.

So are high flow cats in your future, or are you more of an OEM purist? Or are you just going to ditch all that emissions garbage altogether and tell the EPA to go pound sand? Drop me a comment and let me know what you think. If you found this video helpful or interesting, or if you learned something, give me a like and a subscribe. That really helps me out. And like I said before, drop me a comment and let me know what you’re thinking. Also, if you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. You think I’m a shill for Dinox? Let me know. I’m never going to turn down free stuff. And if you think that I’m going to get in trouble with the EPA by installing high flow cats on my truck, let me know that too. Thanks again for watching, guys. We will see you next time, tinkering away, getting things to shine. Garage is considered divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

Hi folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Imagine an axle tough enough for rugged off-road action but light enough for everyday driving. One that is so versatile and reliable you’ll find it in front and rear setups alike, from trucks to sports cars, in both solid and independent configurations. It’s been around for over 70 years and still ranks among the top choices in the 4×4 world. Meet the Dana 44.

The Dana 44 isn’t just another axle; it’s a proven performer found in everything from classic Broncos to Jeep CJs and more. If you’re into Bullnose Fords, any classic trucks, or off-roading in general, chances are this axle rings a bell. If not, stick around because we’re covering everything you need to know. Even if you know this axle, there’s a good chance you’ll pick up something new. I’ll also clear up the differences between the solid and independent suspension versions, as well as the front and rear axle setups. There is a lot to cover, so get comfortable.

Hello! To start, let’s clarify the Dana 44 family tree. The Dana 44 name actually covers a whole series of axles by the Dana Corporation, dating back to the 1940s. It includes a solid front axle with an offset diff for 4×4 work, a solid rear axle with a center diff, and an independent front suspension using Ford’s twin traction beam setup. This axle has been a top choice for off-roaders and classic truck owners for decades because it’s tough, adaptable, and this is important, easier to work on than most.

The beauty of the Dana 44 is its adaptability across all kinds of vehicles. You’ll find it in both front and rear setups in everything from Ford trucks to Jeep CJs, some military vehicles, and high-performance cars with an independent suspension setup. We’re about to take a closer look at both the solid axle and twin traction beam, or TTB, versions, along with how each was used, especially in Ford’s lineup. For those of you looking to source parts to find a solid donor axle, I’ll share some charts later in the video showing which models and years came with the Dana 44.

First up, we’ll check out the solid axle version. Let’s start with what makes a solid Dana 44 such a popular choice. For one, this axle was commonly paired with leaf springs in Ford’s heavier duty setups, and it often uses a high pinion design. Now, when I say high pinion, it means the pinion gear sits higher up in the axle housing than in the standard setup. This design offers a few advantages, especially for off-roading. First, it improves ground clearance, lifting the drive shaft angle to keep it safely clear of rocks, logs, and other tall obstacles. On top of that, this high pinion setup uses reverse cut gears, which provide extra strength in the forward direction. That makes it ideal for front axles where the torque is applied as you pull the vehicle forward. With a high pinion Dana 44, you get added strength, improved clearance, and a smoother drive shaft angle, especially helpful if your truck is lifted.

The solid D44 is designed to handle a wide range of vehicle setups. It functions well as either a front or rear axle, giving it flexibility across different builds. In classic Fords, it’s typically found up front, but in duty setups, you’ll also see it used in the rear. Now, as a rear axle, it’s not quite as beefy as a Dana 60 or a Ford 9-inch, but it’s a solid choice and comparable to the 8.8 when you’re looking to keep weight down and agility up without compromising strength.

Now, Ford isn’t the only one to use the Dana 44. Its versatility attracted other manufacturers like Chevrolet, Dodge, Jeep, International, and even some imports, making it one of the most widely used axles around. If you’re curious about the range of models that came factory-equipped with the 44, here’s a chart with all the details. This is a great reference if you’re thinking of sourcing parts or finding a donor vehicle.

So, let’s talk specs. The solid Dana 44 typically comes with a 30 spline axle, striking a good middle ground for strength and flexibility. Earlier versions sometimes had 19 or 27 splines, but the 30 spline is by far the most common for moderate duty work. If you’re planning to go further off-road, then there are aftermarket options with 33 or even 35 splines. Just remember, if you go up in the spline count, you’ll likely need a compatible differential carrier to handle those shafts. The D44 has an 8 and 1/2 inch ring gear. Now, it’s not as large as what you’ll find in the 9-inch or the Dana 60, but it’s plenty strong for moderate off-roading and light towing.

The Dana 44’s gear ratios are also flexible, ranging from 3.07 to 1 to 4.56 to 1. Lower ratios like 4.10 and 4.56 are great for torque-heavy applications, while higher ratios like 3.55 are more fuel efficient for highway driving. The Dana 44 uses a carrier break around the 3.73 mark, so if you’re planning to switch from a high to a low ratio, you’ll need to change out the carrier. The gross axle weight rating for the Dana 44 ranges from 3,500 to 3,800 pounds, depending on the setup. While it doesn’t match the brute strength of the Dana 60, the 44 is more than capable for medium duty tasks in a 4×4 setup.

The solid Dana 44 axle typically measures about 65 to 68 inches wide from flange to flange, with axle tubes between 2.75 and 3 inches in diameter. This width provides a good balance, keeping the front end light for off-road use without compromising durability. The solid Dana 44 axle itself weighs in around 250 to 300 pounds, making it significantly lighter than the Dana 60. Most Boss AER trucks came equipped with ball joint knuckles on the Dana 44. Ball joints are easy to maintain and offer more precise steering, making them a solid choice for most setups. Some older versions feature kingpin knuckles for added durability, which off-roaders still appreciate.

Further strengths last here a quick note on fluid. The Dana 44 holds around 2 to 3 quarts of gear oil. Maintaining the oil level is crucial, especially for heavy off-roading, as it prevents the gears and bearings from overheating and wearing prematurely. If you’re looking to beef up your solid Dana 44, a whole range of upgrades can take it from a decent axle to a serious off-road contender. Stock shafts work okay for light to moderate off-roading, but if you’re planning to push further, chromoly shafts are a great upgrade. You can also go for a thicker spline count like 33 or even 35 splines if you’re aiming for that maximum strength. But like I said, keep in mind that a higher spline count often requires a compatible carrier, so plan accordingly.

If you’re going to head that route, a locker upgrade makes a big difference in off-road traction. Several types of lockers are available, but selectable lockers like those from ARB are popular because you can engage them only when needed. Keep in mind that adding a locker increases stress on the axle shafts and U-joint, so upgrading your shafts is a smart move here. If you’ve got manual locking hubs, upgrading to a heavy-duty set like Warn hubs makes for a worthwhile investment. Manual hubs are typically stronger than automatic ones, which matters if you’re running larger tires or adding extra load to the front end.

If you’re planning to take your truck over rougher trails, consider adding a truss or skid plate. A truss runs along the top of the axle, adding reinforcement to keep it from flexing under heavy use, and skid plates or reinforced diff covers give you a little bit of extra protection against rocks or trail debris.

And finally, let’s talk about ball joints and knuckles. Most Bullnose trucks with the Dana 44 come with ball joints, which work just fine for most setups. But if you’re planning on larger tires or adding weight to the front end, like a winch bumper, upgrading to a heavy-duty ball joint or even reinforced knuckle is worth considering. This upgrade adds durability and keeps your steering nice and precise.

So let’s switch gears to the twin traction beam, or TTB, Dana 44. It’s a unique setup introduced back in 1980. This version is entirely different from the solid axle, featuring an independent front suspension design rather than one continuous housing. TTB has two beams that pivot independently from a central point. This design aimed to give trucks a smoother, more car-like ride on pavement without sacrificing off-road capability. Ford primarily used the TTB Dana 44 in the F-150 and Bronco models. If you’re wondering which models came with the D44 TTB axle, here’s a quick reference chart. This should be especially useful if you’re seeking TTB-specific parts or looking for a donor vehicle.

Ford designed this axle for folks who wanted a truck that can handle trails while still running comfortably on the highway. While it’s not as rugged as the solid axle version, it offers a strong balance between off-road capability and on-road comfort, making it popular in lighter duty trucks. However, for serious off-roading, the TTB setup has its limitations. Its independent beams and pivot points wear faster under heavy use, and lifting the TTB can create challenging geometry issues.

The TTB Dana 44 usually comes with coil springs instead of leaf springs, which helps create that smoother ride. With two pivot points, one at each beam, it requires regular maintenance, especially for frequent off-road use. These beams are typically made from stamped steel, which is lighter but less durable than a solid axle under extreme off-road conditions. Like its solid axle brother, the TTB Dana 44 uses 30 spline shafts. However, since it’s not a single housing, each side includes a half shaft with U-joints that allow each beam to flex independently.

The TTB Dana 44 generally offers similar gear ratios to the solid axle, ranging from 3.07 to 1 to 4.56 to 1, so you can choose based on whether you need torque for off-road or a higher ratio for on-road fuel efficiency. Lifting a TTB axle is trickier, as the geometry can get thrown off even by modest lifts. This is one reason why some hardcore off-roaders eventually swap the TTB for a solid axle. The TTB’s main strength is ride comfort; its lighter front end provides a smoother ride on pavement, and a big advantage if your truck spends a lot of time on the road.

The TTB Dana 44 can be upgraded as well, although it has a unique set of options because of its independent design. First up, the heavy-duty U-joints and half shafts. Because the TTB relies on half shafts and U-joints for independent movement, a common upgrade here is stronger U-joints and heavy-duty half shafts. Stock parts work well under moderate use, but if you’re heading off-road with larger tires or more power, upgrading these components can prevent early wear or breakage.

Another key upgrade is bushings and pivot brackets. The TTB has a lot of moving parts, and one area that sees a lot of wear is the pivot points. Swapping in polyurethane bushings instead of the stock rubber ones and adding reinforced pivot brackets can make a big difference in stability. This helps reduce play and keeps everything lined up nicely.

Another useful upgrade for TTB setups is adding a truss. Yep, you can add a truss to the TTB beams too. Say that five times fast! TTB beams truss kits strengthen the beams to prevent flexing under load, especially useful if you’re running larger tires or taking the truck off-road regularly. A lot of TTB owners also go for extended radius arms. Stock length arms can sometimes cause binding when the suspension cycles over bumps, but extended arms let the suspension move more freely. They improve the suspension geometry if you’re lifting the truck, helping with handling and stability on rough terrain.

And speaking of lifts, lifting a TTB requires drop brackets to keep the pivot angles correct. TTB lift kits often include these drop brackets along with coil spring spacers or new coil springs altogether to keep the height right. Drop brackets are crucial for maintaining proper geometry; without them, lifting a TTB can cause uneven joint wear and affect handling.

Last but not least, just like with a solid axle, adding a locker can be a great upgrade if you’re planning to take the TTB off-road. Just remember, the TTB’s design is a little more complicated than a solid axle, so lockers can add some extra strain to the system.

And that’s the Dana 44 family in a nutshell. If you’re looking at the solid axle for off-road durability or the TTB for a smooth ride, the Dana 44 has you covered either way. With the right upgrades, regular maintenance, and a bit of know-how, these axles are ready for just about anything, whether it’s the trail, highway, or somewhere in between.

So here’s a little fun fact and something you might not expect right here at the end of the video: The Dana 44 wasn’t just for trucks. Dana also created an independent rear suspension version specifically for sports cars. The IRS D44 maintained the axle strength while being compact enough for performance-focused cars. This version appeared in some legendary rides, including the Chevy Corvette C3 from 1980 to 1982 and the C4 manuals from ’85 to ’96, the Dodge Viper, and even classic Jaguars like the E-Type and XJ. It’s a testament to the versatility of the Dana 44 platform.

There you go, guys. That’s everything that I know, or pretend to know, about the Dana 44 series of axles by the Dana Corporation. Now, this can be a very confusing topic, especially for somebody who’s new to axles or new to working on vehicles, because all these different vehicles are called Dana 44. And unless you know what you’re looking for, it can be hard to find the right information. So just remember, you’ve got a Dana 44 front axle that’s solid, a Dana 44 front axle that’s independent, and a Dana 44 rear axle, and they’re all different. On top of that, they came in all different kinds of vehicles: Fords and Dodges and Chevys, and we went over it, right? There’s a lot of different vehicles you can find them in.

So, hopefully this video gave you some good background information. It was just a real quick overview, but hopefully you learned something. If you did, guys, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that; it helps me out a lot. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, if I got something wrong, drop me a comment and let me know. Guys, thanks again so much for watching, and we will see you next time.

She’s rough around the edges, but she’s doing fine. Tinker away, getting things to shine. Oh no, Gage, she’s sent divine. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching; we will see you next time.