Tag 351 Windsor

was about damn time I got started on this thing right. Today I’m finally getting hands on with the classic piece of Ford V8 history, the 351 Windsor. If you’ve been following this channel for a while, you might recall that, uh, years ago I did a deep dive in 351, uh, Windsor engine. Lots of diagrams, historical tidbits, bunch of stats, uh, all that good stuff. But this time I’ve got the real deal sitting right here in front of me, ready for a tear down. Even better, I’m going to take this mild-mannered Windsor and turn it into a 408 stroker that’ll make some serious power. Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. This is going to be the start of a full series where I take a basic 351 stock Windsor, strip it down to the bare bones, check every single component, and then rebuild it from the ground up. By the end, I’ll have a stroker motor that’s ready to rock in just about any Ford project you can dream up. Mine is going to go in my, uh, ’85 F-150. From turning this block down and inspecting the crank journals to picking the right parts for the rotating assembly and finally firing it up, I’m going to cover all the steps, share all the notes, and almost certainly screw up a few things ’cause I’m no pro and that’s bound to happen. Hello! Now before I start ripping into steel and iron, I want to talk about what makes the 351 Windsor so special. Ford introduced this engine in 1969 and it quickly found a home in everything from Mustangs to trucks. The chassis DNA with a 289 and 302 small blocks, but there are a few key differences. The 351 Windsor is built on a taller deck, which translates into more stroke potential. Basically, the block is a bit beefier all around. It’s got bigger main journals, a stronger bottom end, and enough structural integrity to handle the, uh, the kind of power that I’m aiming for in a stroker build. That’s one of the big reasons enthusiasts love turning the Windsor into a 408 or even beyond. It can handle the extra displacement without acting like, uh, it’s about to explode every time you lay into the gas pedal. So let me get specific on some numbers. The original 351 Windsor typically sports a 4-inch bore and a 3.5-inch stroke. Deck height is in the 9.48 to 9.53-inch range depending on the year, which is noticeably taller than the 8.2 inches you’d see in a 289 or 302. Compression ratios vary, uh, they were all over the map depending on the year and emissions. Early on, you might have seen ratios around 10.7 to 1, while later engines dipped into the 8.0 to 9.0 to 1 range, like this one here. It’s a ’95. As for weight, fully dressed with iron heads and intake, you’re looking at about 500 to 520 lbs, so it’s not exactly a featherweight, uh, but you know, if you’re looking for that, get yourself a 289 if weight savings is your ballpark. Now, if you ever find yourself staring at a Ford small block and wondering whether you got a 351 Windsor, a 302, or a 289, here’s how to tell without playing the guessing game. So first off, casting numbers can give you a clue. They’re over here, uh, underneath on the driver’s side, uh, but they don’t spill it out for you. Take the F4TE 615A block that I have here for example. That C number doesn’t straight up scream 351 Windsor, but it does give us some breadcrumbs. The 6015 part, that’s just Ford’s generic block identifier. It doesn’t tell us the displacement, uh, but the F4TE means that it’s a 1994 truck block. Now that means it’s either a 302 or 351 W. So how do we know for sure? Well, here’s where the physical differences between those two different blocks come in. One of the easiest ways to spot a 351 over a 302 is the deck height. Uh, the 351 is noticeably taller, measuring 9.53 inches compared to the 302’s 8.26. It’s a solid 1.3-inch difference, which spreads the heads further apart and it makes the engine physically larger. Now you can’t, uh, fiddle with it to get it right where 9 and a half is, but yeah, you can see it’s pretty close right there. Uh, now if you turn to the bottom end, uh, Ford gave the 351 Windsor a much beefier foundation compared to the 302. I don’t have this apart so I can’t show you, uh, but one of the quickest tells is the main cap bolts. They’re 1/2-inch bolts on 351 versus the smaller 7/16-inch bolts on a 302. Uh, the extra strength is one of the reasons that the 351 Windsor can handle stroker builds and, uh, big power without turning into a, yeah, pile of metal shavings. I mean, not that the 302 can do that, but 351 is more robust. Uh, speaking of beefy internals, the crankshaft main journal is another great big difference. The 351 Windsor uses a hefty 3-inch main journal compared to the 302’s 2.5 inches. You know, so there you go versus there you go, right? Uh, if you got the crank out, a quick measurement will tell you exactly what you’re working with. One more subtle clue is the oil filter boss, uh, location on 351 Windsor. The oil filter mount sits slightly higher on the block than it does on the 302. Now this is not super easy to spot, especially when the engine is inside of a bay, uh, unless you got them both side by side sitting out. But if you want to look for that, it’s just another piece of the puzzle. Uh, so you know, the next time you’re thinking through a swap met or picking through a junkyard, uh, keep those checks in mind. Uh, now if you’re looking at a small block Ford, uh, installed in an engine bay from the front and trying to decide if it’s a 351 Windsor or just another 302, my go-to way, what I think is the easiest, uh, and it’s a quick way to tell at a glance is to check the area around the distributor mount. Um, I’ll get you a closeup here in a second, but, uh, on a 289 or 302, the pad the distributor mounts, uh, is almost flush with the block. On a 351, there’s almost an extra inch of, uh, material here. Uh, it’s much visibly taller. It’s due to the deck height and the taller deck is what gives the 351 Windsor its extra stroke and displacement. So it’s the quick visual indicator, this deck height here around the distributor, uh, to tell if you’re looking at, uh, a 351 or a 302 if the engine is sitting inside of a, of an engine bay, especially if it’s fully dressed. So, uh, while I got the engine still together, although it won’t be for long, there’s a few other things that, uh, I want to point out here before I start tearing this thing down completely. First off, we’ll take a look at the oil pan. Now I’ll be sure to show you the pickup tube and discuss how it affects oil delivery once I’ve got all this stuff here off. Still so much grime. So another thing I want to show you real quick while the engine’s still together is that I still have the, uh, stock exhaust manifolds on. Now they’re fine for a stock build for the most part, but, uh, you know, they’re definitely not going to be okay for a 408 stroker. Now I’ve left these on here because I didn’t want critters and stuff getting in the open holes while I was sitting outside, but now that it’s in my garage, I can, uh, take those off. I’m not doing that right now, but I am going to show you what I’m replacing them with to give you an idea of the difference. So to do that, let me turn this thing back around. Now this thing is definitely top-heavy, so, uh, and it is a beast, so I got to have a little bit of a cheater bar here to, uh, see if I can get this thing turned around. Here we go. H! All right, so here you can see the, uh, stock exhaust header. Let me, uh, try you down a little bit so you can get a better, a little bit clearer shot. And here is the new one that’s going to go on. These are long tube headers. I got them, uh, actually I got them for free from, uh, DynoX, so they provided those for me. I’ve got a video on these, um, where I’ll show you what these are all about. But yeah, man, that’s going to, that’s going to look pretty sweet and sound pretty sweet. Yeah, we can look forward to getting those on. And lastly, while we’re here and this thing is still together, you can take a look at the stock intake manifold up here. Uh, you know what? Actually, let me get, uh, this plate off the top here and I’ll show you what I’m talking about. All right, now that I’ve got the, uh, plate off the top, we could talk about this, uh, stock intake manifold. Now there’s a couple things going on here, um, that need to be addressed as far as my build is concerned. First, you know, these documents are okay for low-end grunt, um, and stock applications, but for a 408 stroker build, uh, they just don’t flow enough air. So I’ll be definitely looking at some aftermarket intakes for this. And, uh, also because this one is a fuel injected intake, not a carbureted intake, um, I will be swapping this to a carbureted engine. Uh, and you guys may go, oh my God, carbureted engine, why would you ever do that? Fuel injection is so much better and more reliable and all this other kind of stuff that people end up doing. Uh, so a couple things. One, uh, I’ve never messed with carburetors before, and so I don’t have that, that little bit of jadedness that some of the carburetor guys have. Uh, and I need to get that. I really need to, to figure out, I need to internalize why carburetors are so horrible, right? So I want to build my engine with a carburetor. I also really like the old school feel of that, and I like the old school look. So if I do get tired of the carburetor, uh, even though I’ve got a carbureted intake, I’ll just get myself like a sniper EFI or something like that that looks like a carburetor, uh, still gives you that old school look, but you, it will work with the intake that I’ve got, but still gives me the, uh, the modern sort of drivability and reliability of an EFI setup. So that’s my plan there. So once I got everything taken apart, disassembled, I’m going to dedicate an entire episode to walking through each of these parts so I can show you exactly what it does and why it’s important. I’ll lay out the crank, rods, pistons, heads, and anything else that I’ve yanked off this block right here, uh, and I’ll put them on a bench and I’ll give you a crash course on small block Ford anatomy. Honestly, it’s going to help me brush up on my own knowledge too because, you know, there’s nothing like pointing at each component and telling you exactly what it does and figuring out how it all comes together to, uh, keep your mind on track. That’ll be good for me before I, uh, build the new engine too, so we’re going to do that. Uh, I mean, Lord knows I need as much help as I can get. If you’re wondering why I picked a 351 Windsor for a project like this, one, you’re obviously not a subscriber to the channel, and two, let me sum it up. Uh, there’s a ton of them out there, it’s durable, and the aftermarket part support is insane. You know, there’s a lot of options for intakes, exhausts, uh, man, all kinds of different stroker kits and just pretty much whatever you’re looking for. So as I’m going along, I’m also going to chat about the history of the Windsor, uh, ’cause it’s really interesting and that’s part of the fun for me. I really like digging into that stuff. So now here’s the part that I’m going to get yelled at for in the next episode. I’m going to start tearing this thing down. Oh my God, Ed, all you ever do is flap your gums! I know, right? I’ve been waiting on this for four years, but I want to do it right and take it slow, so I’m taking it one episode at a time. Next time, I promise I talk to you about this engine, I will be taking it apart. I’m going to show you exactly how I pull the heads, yank the cam, and see if there’s any hidden damage lurking down into this block, right? I’m going to measure the bores to see how much I need to overbore for my stroker pistons. Now hopefully I’ll get lucky and this thing is basically still stock. I think it is, and if it is, then I should probably only have to go 30 over, but you never know. Maybe I won’t, and that’s part of the adventure. So once I know the status, I’ll pick out a nice stroker kit that matches my goal, something that’ll give me a nice bump in torque and horsepower, get me up to 408, and, uh, you know, something that won’t turn this engine into a ticking time bomb. Excuse me, uh, so that’s the plan and I can’t wait to get my hands dirty. If you love classic small block Fords or just enjoy watching some dude in his garage try not to drop a cylinder.

Head on his foot then, uh, this series is definitely going to be for you. I, I, I, I’m designing this series so that some guy like me, who’s never done this before, can start from episode one and work all the way through. By the end, should know everything they got to know to build the same kind of engine that I’m building here. And that’s, guys, that’s why I’m taking it slow. I know that, uh, you four guys that have built before probably look at this going, oh my gosh, this guy is so slow, it’s like watching molasses go uphill. But you’re probably not who this series is for. But you might find it interesting, so I hope that you do.

So guys, do myself and yourself a favor and make sure that you’re subscribed and have those notifications turned on because next time, I swear to you that you see this engine, I will be tearing it apart to see what’s salvageable and set the stage for the 408 stroker build. Um, it’s going to be a lot of work. It’s going to be a lot of head scratching for me ’cause I’ve never done it before. Um, it’s a big, uh, big task and, uh, I’m sure there’ll be a little bit more than just a little bit of cussing under my breath. Um, but I’m looking forward to it.

You know, let me know if you guys have done a stroker engine yourself and how it went. What was a dream come true or a frustrating odyssey of stripped bolts and missing gaskets? Because it is intimidating for a first timer, uh, but I want to hear about it. If you have any other questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, as always, stick them below. Thanks again for watching and we will see you next time.

She’s rough around the edges but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine. No garage, she’s considered divine. Thanks again for watching, we will see you next time. Thanks again for watching, we will see you next time.

4 years, that’s how long this donor chassis has been rotting in my backyard, mocking me every time I walked past it like it was earning a PhD in Rust and regret. Well, the wait is over. In today’s video, I finally dragged its sorry frame into the garage to kick off this build series from my 351 Windsor into a 408 stroker.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage, where small block dreams meet backyard ambition. This isn’t just another project; it’s the start of a long-awaited dream. The day kicked off with a caffeine-fueled tow job where my wife and I, armed with determination and questionable life choices, wrestled that chassis into position. Then, with the help of brute strength, an army of munchkins, and my shiny new floor-mounted shackle with a cal along, we hauled it into the garage.

Once it was in, the real work began. I disconnected everything, yanked the engine out with a hoist, and got it set up on a stand. The transmission soared out of there like it had tickets to a circus audition, straight onto a pallet where it belongs. It’s not your everyday procedure, but hey, I’ll take an easy win when I can get one. But here’s my favorite part: with the dust settled, my 4-year-old stepped in to help manhandle the husk of a chassis and get it parked outside. Seeing her take charge of that big frame was a perfect way to cap off the day.

And now, standing here next to the 351, I’m pumped to finally say we’re ready to tear it down and turn it into the 408 stroker that I’ve been dreaming about. This is the first chapter in an epic saga that promises grease, grit, and enough excitement to keep us all on the edge of our creepers. Let’s get started!

Hello! So today, my goal is to get the drive shaft off, drain the transmission fluid, and drain the oil out of the engine so I could prep to move this thing. If I’ve got time, I might change that front wheel too. So this is a two-piece drive shaft. You can see it goes through a mount point there in the middle, back to the pumpkin, and then, of course, up to the transmission. So, uh, back here, I know I just take these 12-point bolts off here, knock her loose, and drop her down. Um, I’m not sure how to get that off of there, and the transmission just, you just yank out of there. So let’s see if I can, uh, get that figured out.

All right, now that that’s dropped down, I’m going to go back here and, uh, take it off the diff. All right, so now I’ll just yank her out of there and get it out of the way, and I’ll figure out how to separate the two parts of the drive shaft later. It does—there we go. Where’s the drain plug in this son? That can’t be it, there can it? I guess we look it up. All right, so learning stuff every day, guys. It turns out that the E4OD transmission here does not have a drain plug on the pan. A common modification that some folks do is to put a drain plug down underneath there. You just drill a hole and pop a plug in. Um, I might do that, but I think that would get—I would get myself pretty messy drilling a hole in the bottom of the thing full of fluid. I guess it takes like, like four gallons of fluid. Holy hell! All right, well, so I gotta figure out how to drain this thing, and I think I’m just going to end up cracking some bolts on the pan down here and, uh, letting some of it drain out that way. You also have to drain the converter, and there’s a plug up here, uh, underneath for that, and so I have to do that. But it’s a much bigger job than I was anticipating for today. Um, and unfortunately, I don’t have a pan big enough, so I’m going to have to go out and get me a much bigger fluid pan underneath this thing because I don’t want all this transmission fluid spilling all over my nice gravel here, even though I’ve already got quite a bit. And, uh, so, uh, that kind of wraps it for today for me. Uh, I’ll be back, but I think I’m going to go ahead and change this tire out real quick first, uh, so I can at least accomplish something.

Well, guys, today is the day. I’ve got the donor chassis moved out from where it’s been sitting for the last 4 years, right in front of the garage. I’m getting ready to pull this thing into the garage. I’m going to pull this engine and this transmission, and I’m going to bring you along for the whole thing. If you’re new here, this is what I call the donor. I call it that because this engine here is going to be pulled, rebuilt, turned into a 408 stroker. It’s a 351 Windsor right now, turned into a 408 stroker and stuck in that truck right over there eventually. The first step is obviously to get it off of this chassis and tear it down, take a look at it, see what’s going on inside, and then get it off to a machine shop to do all that stuff. But before I can do that, I gotta get it off of here, so I’m all prepared for that. My last video, I took all the accessories and stuff off and, uh, did a little bit of calculation to see how much money I made from that stuff, and this time, like I said, we’re pulling it into the garage, and we’re going to start lifting this engine off and getting it on a stand.

So the first thing I’m going to do is use the new system that I just put into my garage with my, uh, garage floor anchor and the hitch mount that I put in there. I got another video on how I did that. You can come along and, by myself, yank this thing into the garage so that we can get a cherry picker in here and start pulling this engine. Once I’ve got it in the garage, I’ll be putting a jack stand underneath the transmission so the transmission will stay where it is. You gotta block that thing up so that when you disconnect the engine, uh, the transmission doesn’t just flop over or bend your frame, bend the crossmember as you pull the engine out. So, uh, I’m going to do that, and then once I’ve got the transmission, uh, blocked up, I’ll go ahead and start, uh, undoing the engine mount bolts and take this sucker off.

All right, kid, ready for this? Yeah! All right, chat it up, attach it up, attat it. I’m attaching it right here. Hey, come here, you want to try this? Yeah, okay. All you do is just go like this, just move it back and forth. Oh, okay, okay, just be careful with it. All the way back, all the way down, all the way, and then back. It’s a bun! It is! You’re moving a huge vehicle! Look at that! Oh boy, it’s not going up! The bun, it will! Oh, hey Dad, look at you! I can’t, I can’t touch that Fortran hair! Okay, look out, girls! Dad, how did you do that? I didn’t know you could do that! I didn’t know that! Holy moly! Yeah, I think that’s far enough. What do you think? That’s good! That’s good! Heh, put them behind the back wheels, okay? And you put yours behind the front wheels, okay? Okay, good job, good job! Okay, this one, put that one in front. Why? Well, that one will keep you from going forward, just in case.

All right, guys, now that I’ve got this truck in the garage, or what’s left of this truck in the garage, it’s time to support the transmission before I pull the engine. Now, I’m sure most of you guys already know this; it was news to me when I first started out in this whole adventure. The front of the transmission is only supported by its connection to the engine, so there’s nothing underneath the transmission here holding it to the frame of the truck. Now, in the back, there is a crossmember here that holds up the transmission, but the front, there’s nothing. So if you pull the engine without supporting the front of the transmission, it’ll bend down and bend your crossmember and do all kinds of crazy stuff, right? So you’ve got to support the front of your transmission. I am just going to use a jack stand for this. Uh, it’s super simple. Everything that I’m doing here is actually really simple because everything is removed, but it’s kind of cool because now it allows you to kind of see everything that’s going on. So, uh, I got my jack stand and kind of figured out the height here, and it is almost at one click the perfect height to support this transmission. All I gotta do is just jack the truck up just a little bit and get that jack stand under there. So I’m going to go ahead and do that. I’m just going to use a bottle jack for this. Now, I don’t have to go up very much because this jack stand clicked at the first clicker in there is actually just about exactly the right height to go into the—so I just got to come up like less than half an inch to get it up there. And there we go! And now lower this down, I should be pretty tight. So for extra support, I’m also putting my bottle jack with a block of wood underneath the transmission pan. Uh, this I’ve never done this before, so I want to make sure I’m not missing anything, that I’m not going to, um, you know, supporting this this way isn’t enough or, uh, that it wobbles or anything when I’m trying to pull the engine off or anything. So I just want to make sure that I’m good and supported here. So that’s what I’m going to do. I’m just going to go ahead and, uh, support the oil pan area as well with a little bit of pressure, and that way I should be good to go.

And so the next thing that I’m going to do is take the bolts out. What? I’ve never done that before either! Yep, there it is, almost ready to go. See, in this way, since I’ve got this tight, if there’s any wiggling or whatever when I disconnect these, that way this will hold it because you don’t want to leave anything to chance when you’re pulling an engine. This is how you move it; you hold on to this and you push it around. Wow! I a try! Okay, so here we are all hooked up. I just want to kind of show you guys how I have this set up. So this is, uh, obviously a plate that I bought that fits the EFI version of the intake for the 351 Windsor. Uh, fits a bunch of different engines, but it does fit this one. And then I bought a load leveler just to make sure that, uh, nothing goes squirrely on me. And I put the load leveler, uh, chain hooks here through the, uh, the plate that I got. And what this is actually going to allow me to do is, is this—you can’t really do it now because it’s pretty tight, but this can actually move back and forth. There we go! And it lets the engine kind of wiggle and sway, um, if I needed to. And these are tight enough that they’re not going to come loose, but, uh, I might tighten them up a little bit more just to make sure they don’t wiggle too loose. But this should, uh, allow the engine a lot of free movement so it’s easier for me to get on my stand. So that’s how I got that set up. I have to disconnect the, uh, engine from the transmission.

I need to sleep! You need to sleep? I need to sleep too, kid! Tired? Yeah! Back later! Okay, bye-bye, stinker! Bye, stinker! All right, now that I’ve got the transmission, uh, properly supported and my engine is also supported, I’m going to go ahead and, uh, disconnect the transmission from the engine. I can’t tell you how much easier this is going to be without the chassis and stuff everywhere. Uh, this is like a cakewalk compared to doing it with, uh, you know, a vehicle with all the stuff on it. But, uh, this is my first time ever doing it, so I’m actually really happy that I have this set up like this, um, so I can kind of, you know, cut my teeth on something much simpler. It also gives me an opportunity to show you guys from a very clear angle exactly how this is going to work. So, uh, here we go! I’m going to go ahead and start unloosening the bolts that, uh, keep this thing attached to the engine. I don’t know if my impact would work. Let me see. It’s not a very powerful impact. Ooh, that’s a lot easier! Thanks! So when you guys watch my videos, you’ll notice that I almost always use hand tools and very rarely use power tools for this kind of stuff. I think one of that’s lack of experience and, uh, also because I don’t really have a lot of great power tools. This is the only impact driver that I’ve got, and it’s not air. Eventually, I’d like to get an air impact, some air tools, but right now all I’ve got is this one. But actually, it seems to be working out pretty well, so I will keep using it. I can’t get out of there, so I got a little overzealous. Instead of taking these bolts out, what I really need to do is get underneath there, um, and take off the inspection plate from the bottom of the transmission so I can get the torque converter unbolted and then take the starter off as well. So I’m going to go ahead and work on that. So let’s see if we can get this starter out of here. He’s already got unplugged there. Only just two bolts to it. I don’t know, I ain’t never done this before! Here, that size, you are half inch. Should probably distract those lines. This is a little easier. I’ll let you know when I pull the engine, okay?

All right, now that those lines are out of the way, makes it a bit easier, and there is the starter out, kind of. All right, well, now that the starter is out of there, uh, I can work on the inspection cover of the transmission. Y’all, all right, damn it! That’s a good way to round off both heads. Ah, this is easier! We’re sa—some time from the start. No, you gotta be lazy! Y la, you bastard! Here, look at that! Ooh, I got one right there!

All right, guys, sorry for the glare coming through my garage door. Uh, I gotta leave it open ’cause the truck won’t fit all the way in, so this is what it is. But here you can see the flex plate that’s, uh, actually attached to the engine on one side and the torque converter on the other. Now, I want to disconnect this from the torque converter so the torque converter stays with the transmission and the flex plate stays with the engine. So that’s, uh, this right here is a flex plate. You can see the teeth here that engage with a starter as it turns, right? And there’s, I believe, there’s four of these nuts on here that I gotta get off, right? There’s one there, and you can see one right there as well. But you really want to get to them from through this inspection cover here. And so what I’m going to do is I’m going to go ahead and take this one here off since it’s available to me, and then you turn the engine over with a breaker bar or, uh, you know, a socket set depending on how tough your engine is to turn. Mine is really easy ’cause it’s disconnected from everything. And, uh, get to where you can get another bolt, and you just turn it until you got all four, and then the flex plate is disconnected from the torque converter, and you should be able to just, uh, yank the transmission off or the engine in my case. Oh, that turns on me, does it? All right, so that means I gotta get something in here to keep this from loov. Gotcha! Come on, man! Oh man, these are a pain! One! All right, now we go! Turn the engine! There we go! Blop! All right, flex plate disconnected!

All right, it is time to undo the engine mount bolts. Let’s see if I can get this done. All right, let’s see if we can break her loose. All right, there’s one! All right, guys, I gotta move you out of the way so you don’t get creamed. See if that was enough. Okay, I think she’d be free. Nope! I’m just getting this plate and wiring harness out of the way to make it easier to move around and pull the stuff when the time comes. Also, I don’t want to crunch any of this stuff, and I’m strapping up the transmission to take off the chassis, so just get it out of the way. No dice! Anybody wants to buy me a pneumatic impact for Christmas? Dear Santa, I’ve been a good boy this year!

All right, here we go! Let’s see if I can pull it loose. I’m not quite out of the mount yet. All right, I’m off the mounts now. See if I can get off the transmission without dropping the transmission on the floor here. Oh, I missed one! Missed one bolt right there! Right, and off it comes! That’s been a long time coming to get that engine off of there, but it is finally free!

All right, now that I got the engine off, I’m going to go ahead and, uh, drop this transmission down so that it rests on top of my jack here, just to give it a place to go until I’m ready to actually take it off and move it somewhere else. All right, transmission secure! Now to mount the engine to the stand. All right, let’s see if my impact will take this flex plate off. Looks like a big old no! Santa, if you’re there, air impact gun! All right, now can I get them on? If you had the right size, Ed, maybe! But who knows where you put the right size ’cause you’re always laying tools all over the damn place and not picking them up and putting them where they should be? Let’s see if I can get my breaker on the front of this thing and keep it from moving. Gotcha! Woo! That’s a tight SOB! Uhhuh! One more! Come on! Gotcha! And that’s the flex plate sorted. The, uh, what’s the plate that sits between the engine and the flex plate called? That plate is called the engine spacer plate, or sometimes just the block plate. It sits between the engine block and the flex plate or flywheel and serves a few key purposes: one, alignment; it helps ensure the starter motor meshes properly with the flex plate’s teeth. Two, protection; it acts as a shield to prevent debris from entering the area around the torque converter or flywheel. Three, spacing; it provides the correct spacing for the torque converter and transmission. You want to keep it in good shape, no dents or warping, since a damaged spacer plate can cause alignment issues with the starter or transmission running as a go.

All right, spacer plate off! All right, boys and girls, I think it’s time to get this thing on the stand. That’s probably about right; we’ll leave it there for now. Now, a good friend of mine, my brother-in-law as a matter of fact, gave me a little tip. He said that the best way to do this is to actually take this mounting plate off of your engine stand and mount it to the engine while it’s on your hoist. That way, it’s much easier to line up to the stand; you just slide it right in. So that’s what I’m going to do. I went to a local hardware store. Unfortunately, my Lowe’s and Home Depot didn’t have this stuff. Your mileage may vary on that count; our Lowe’s here is horrible. Uh, anyway, and I got these bolts to mount the, uh, the mount plate to the engine. These are 7/16 by 3 and 1/2 in. Now, these are grade eight bolts. Um, you don’t need grade eight bolts for this. Uh, there’s not going to be any real, you know, sheer forces or any kind of bumping or wiggling or anything on this while you’re out on the stand; you’re just rotating it around. So it doesn’t need to be super strong. Grade five is probably even overkill, uh, but grade eight’s not that much more expensive, so I went ahead and got that. And I’ve got some washers here just for spacers in case, uh, I don’t go in far enough into here. I’m not exactly sure how deep these are, so we’re going to find out.

All right, guys, so if you’re using a Harbor Freight engine stand like I am, then your configuration is like this: you got the two flat slides on top, the two slanty slides on the bottom. I will get these, uh, put in where they got to go and tightened up here, but, uh, yeah, that’s the configuration you’re looking for. This part may be a challenge. Yeah, unfortunately, my legs aren’t letting me do what I want to do here. That’s going to be hard to get the legs down. O, I almost got it! So how am I going to do this part? I’m going to put that brick under there to keep this from falling down sideways when I put the weight on it. We’ll see how that works. Now let’s take it real slow, okay? One thing at a time here, get that up so I can get this down. Don’t try this at home, kids! Success! I’m on the engine stand!

So here is my janky transmission. B-rich, just some ratchet straps in my leveler. Uh, transmission door near as heavy as the engine. Spot fly 170, and, uh, out myber P just going to lift it up, read it over to the side, then back to chassis out. So, uh, I’m not going to mess with it very much up in the air, so hopefully, I like problem with this. Uh, we’re going to find out ’cause I’m about to unbolt it this thing. Now, this is going to be very significantly tied without the edge of the transmission, so I’m not that worried about manling disconnected. So now that the, uh, transmission’s out and chassis is out of the way, the garage is open up again. I can, uh, move my transmission onto a pallet back here so that I can put it up on Craigslist and give her soul. I for an e-war would be automatic transmission, and even if I get someday, that someday is so far away, but it’s not worth it to be three to store. I can try to—well, I know you can’t move it. Want to see if I can move it? Oh, you think you can move it with me? Yeah, it’s strong! Look at you! Think it’s strong? You’re good! All right, wait for me! Hey, wait up! Push hard! Push hard! Ready? Okay, here! Okay, right there! Okay, okay, to push back! Okay, y push! Push! Run away from me! Oh, look! Are you nice? I’m surprised! Are you really? Yes! K! Yep! I need to hold it! Can I do one? Get get him! I’m going to tell Mom! Okay, you go tell Mom! I’m going this way! Okay, you go that way! And that wraps it up! Got the engine out, got the transmission out, ready to go! Stick around because for the next episode, I’m going to be tearing this thing down, taking stuff off, going through it with a fine-tooth comb, and showing you exactly what everything is, what it does, how the engine works, and what to look for when you’re rebuilding your own. So if you’re interested in that kind of stuff, make sure you like and subscribe and stick around for that because, uh, that’s what’s coming up next! Man, I can’t wait! I can’t wait to start building this thing into a 408 monster that’s going to go in my Bullnose God! That’s a dream I’ve been looking forward to for a long time! Guys, if you’re with me on this journey, if you want to see more of this kind of stuff, like I said, give me a like, give me a subscribe! It really does help me out! If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below! Thanks again so much for watching, guys, and we will see you next time! She’s around the edges, but she’s doing fine, tinkering away, getting things to shine! That no garage, she’s considered! Thanks again for watching! We will see you next time! Thanks again for watching! We will see you next time!

Santa, forget the socks and ties this year. I need horsepower under the tree. Santa, bring me tools. I’ve got work to do. This wind’s waiting on my stand, and I need some help from you.

A torque wrench for the heads, a home to clean the board, and a breaker bar so I don’t throw my shoulder out no more. Oh, Santa, bring me tools and parts, a camshaft with a low B, some sturdy springs and headers built to make it rain.

Oh, it’s going to be a Bullnose Christmas. The B-no stands ready, the six still pulls its weight, but there’s a wind on the way to make next Christmas great.

I need a ring compressor, plastic gauge from your sack, and if there’s room, a trimming tool. I promise, Chris, I’ll pay you back.

Oh, Santa, bring me tools and parts, a timing chain, some plugs, that SPK, and it didn’t take man A-F. That sing some rockers, rid and molar. Oh, it’s going to be a Bullnose Christmas.

Here’s the deal, Santa. Next Christmas, I’ll hook up the Bullnose to your sleigh and let Rudolph take the night off. No reindeer can match a Ford Windsor in full stride.

Oh, pack your bag tight. My V8 roars into the night. A bench seat where my kids can play. Next year, we’ll cruise on Christmas Day.

Oh, it’s all going to be a Bullnose Christmas. Thanks, Santa. Cookies and milk are by the tree, and if you’ve got a spare set of valve covers, I wouldn’t complain. Merry Christmas from Bullnose Garage.

Ah, the trusty distributor. If you’ve ever tangled with one of these on a classic like the 351 Windsor, you know it’s equal parts genius design and pure frustration. Does this look familiar to you? Howdy folks, and welcome back to Bullnose Garage. And if you want to see how I wrestled this sucker free, stick around. If you’re here for just a know-how or you’re actually standing over your engine bay right now in a cold sweat wondering how you’re going to pull this thing, no worries, I got your back. Hello!

Now, before I show you how I muscled this bad boy out and how you can do the same if yours is stuck, let’s get the basics out of the way. Think of the distributor as the ignition system’s old school brain. Back before computers took over the heavy lifting, its job was to send high voltage spark to the right cylinder at exactly the right time. Fire too soon and your engine pings like a pinball machine; fire too late and it wheezes like an old accordion. Inside, the rotating shaft driven by the camshaft keeps the spark plugs firing on schedule. Older models ran on mechanical points, but newer ones like most 351 Windsors switch to electronic ignition. Sure, the upgrade made things more reliable, but decades of heat, grime, and let’s be real, neglect can still glue these things in place.

The 351 Windsor distributor keeps things simple and durable, but here’s the catch: the aluminum housing loves bonding with the cast iron block. Throw in years of heat cycles, a sprinkle of oxidation, and voila, your distributor is practically welded in place. Now, distributors have a lot of variation, but I’ll go over the stuff that’s pretty much the same across the board, at least for the 351 Windsor. So up top, we got the cap as we, your spark plug wires and the coil make their connections. If you pop the cap off, you’ll see the contacts that keep each cylinder firing in sync. The rotor here goes around and strikes those contacts, and it spins like a top to deliver sparks from the coil to each terminal as the engine turns.

In the 351 Windsor, this shaft goes out into the engine where the gear here connects to the camshaft. It keeps the whole thing running. The bottom of this shaft here connects to your oil pump through the oil pump drive shaft; that’s what powers your oil pump right there. And then finally, the whole thing secures down into the block with a clamp right here.

All right, let’s tackle the gritty part: pulling that stubborn distributor. If you’re dealing with a decades-old engine like my 351 Windsor, then this process might test your patience. But don’t sweat it; I got a whole toolbox full of tricks to help you out. Start with the basics and work your way up until that distributor finally lets go. Whatever method you pick, step one is going to be soaking the base of the distributor with penetrating oil like PB Blaster, Tri-Flow, or a DIY blend of 50% acetone and 50% ATF. Make it all work wonders. If you can, let it sit overnight first and then repeat the process as much as you need to. Be really, really liberal with it.

The easiest way to start after applying your oil to the base is by tapping the distributor itself with a rubber mallet just a few times. You don’t want to hit it hard; you just want to try to break loose some of that corrosion. You’re not going for brute force; just chock the corrosion loose. And while you’re at it, you can try wiggling the distributor back and forth, either this way or rotating it and then pulling upward with as much force as you can muster. If that doesn’t do the trick on its own, and if you’re here, probably didn’t, then you can carefully break out a pry bar. This was what worked for me. Apply steady upward pressure and try rotating the engine by hand to nudge the camshaft position. This can help for the distributor. Remember that gear that I pointed out earlier? It’s meshing with the camshaft down in there somewhere, so rotating that around can help get things into a more helpful orientation.

As you can see here, I also smacked down on the pry bar with my rubber mallet on the end to try to add some extra shock to the connection with my distributor. And the pry bar I used, there’s a perfect spot to make this work. I don’t know if you can see that very well, but it’s right there. The pry bar goes right up inside underneath here like my fingers are, and it pried up real easy. I think we’re making it, boys and girls! Gotcha! When a plan comes together, take your time and be deliberate. The aluminum housing can scratch and even break pretty easily if you’re not careful. Keep in mind I didn’t have all the rest of the engine parts or truck body in the way, so your mileage may vary. But with penetrating oil, persistence, and some luck, most distributors will come out.

At this point, if prying doesn’t cut it, grab a heat gun or a small propane torch and apply heat to the cast iron around the distributor base. Aluminum expands fast, faster than cast iron. So while the distributor shaft itself will actually expand more than the hole that it’s in when it’s heated, the different expansion rates can actually break the bond. The heat can also soften up the corrosion and debris in the joint, making it easier to free up that distributor. If you can manage to keep the heat to the cast iron and not the aluminum, that might be all it takes for the best results. Alternate between heating the area and letting it cool down. The cycle of expansion and contraction is what can eventually break the hold. Be careful not to overheat one spot and make sure to shield nearby parts like wiring, hoses, and gaskets from too much heat.

If that doesn’t work, another trick you can try is rapidly cooling the base of the distributor with freeze spray or an upside-down can of compressed air. The sudden chill can crack the corrosion and help loosen things up. If you can both heat up the block itself and then rapidly cool the distributor base, it’s the best of both worlds. You can also break out a slide hammer with a special distributor puller attachment. Now, it might mean investing in a specialty tool, but it could be worth it if your distributor is being extra stubborn or if you pull a bunch of them.

You can also try positioning yourself directly above the distributor by standing on a tall ladder or even on the frame or other parts carefully and pulling straight up with your body weight. The goal here is to pull straight up, not at an angle, and that’s a tough thing to do from ground level. So if you can get above it and over top of it, then you can always pull straight up. Building on that idea, you could also rig up a nylon strap or rope around this distributor and hook it to a hoist or a cherry picker. Use the hoist to apply steady upward pressure while giving the distributor a few taps with a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer. You can even leave the hoist pulling overnight while soaking the base with penetrating oil for good measure.

If all else fails and the distributor still won’t budge, it might be time to consider more drastic measures, like choosing violence. Maybe you need to do a partial engine disassembly. Removing the oil pan and oil pump lets you access the oil pump drive shaft passage, and from here, you can slide a long thin steel rod into the passage and carefully tap the bottom of the distributor shaft with a hammer. The goal is to apply direct upward force to pop the shaft loose. While this method can work, it comes with some serious risks. You risk bending the distributor shaft, damaging the gear, or even marring the block. So if you go this route, take it low and remember it’s really only for engines already being rebuilt or replaced.

Once the distributor is out, the hard part’s over, but don’t skip this: clean the bore thoroughly to clear out any corrosion or debris. A dab of anti-seize on the distributor shaft now will save you a ton of hassle next time. Oh, and make sure you double-check your oil pump drive shaft alignment before reinstalling the distributor. Nothing’s worse than putting it all back together and finding out you’ve got no oil pressure. That’s a mistake you only make one time.

And that is the lowdown on distributors, from how they work to wrestle them free. You got a distributor horror story or a trick that I missed? Share it in the comments; I’d love to hear it. I am so glad that I managed to get mine out just going to the pry bar step. I didn’t have to start applying heat and doing everything else, but they can be a bear. But hey, you know, now that I’ve got the distributor out and I also got all the fuel rail stuff and everything off of there, now it’s almost time to pull that thing into the garage and pull that engine off. I am looking forward to it so much. That’s going to be an episode coming up real quick, guys. You don’t want to miss it. Make sure you stay tuned and subscribe if you want to see that stuff. If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, leave it below. Like I said, make sure to subscribe and stick with me while I do this Windsor rebuild. I cannot wait. And guys, thanks again so much for watching. We will see you next time, tinkering away, getting things to shine. That no garage is divine. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time.

I have the power. Hello, all right folks, enough of that cheesy nonsense. Ed here, welcome back to Bullnose Garage. Today we’re talking alternators, specifically swapping out the stock 1G alternator for a 3G. As a bonus, I pulled a 3G alternator from my 351 Windsor donor vehicle, and I’ll be using that as a visual aid today.

If you’ve had your truck for a while, especially if you’ve added accessories like lights, new headlights, a better stereo, or maybe an electric fan, you’ve probably noticed that the 1G can struggle to keep up. This is where the 3G comes in. It’s got more power, better reliability, and fewer headaches. So let’s dive into why you’d want to make the switch and how to get it done.

So why do we want to ditch the 1G? Well, the stock 1G alternators from these 1980 to ’86 trucks were fine for their time, but they’ve got a bit of a reputation for being underpowered. They typically put out around 65 amps. It’s okay for a truck back in the ’80s mostly, but once you start adding aftermarket accessories like extra lighting or modern electronics, the 1G just can’t keep up. And then there’s the wiring. The 1G alternators have external regulators and use fusible links, which aren’t the most robust system. The connectors can overheat and melt, and nobody wants that under the hood. It’s like running a garden hose when you really need a fire hose.

Enter the 3G alternator. This upgrade for the mid-’90s is substantial. The 3G alternator is internally regulated, so it ditches that problematic external regulator and fusible link setup. The big deal though is the output. It’s much higher, anywhere from 90 to 130 amps depending on the model. That’s a big leap over the 1G’s 65 amps. What’s great about the 3G is it’s not just more power; it’s more stable power. You’ll get better voltage regulation, which means your truck’s electrical system is happier, especially at idle. With the 1G, your lights might dim or your stereo might cut out when you’re idling at a stoplight. The 3G helps prevent that. And if you’re running a winch or big off-road lights, it’s pretty much a must-have upgrade.

So right here I’ve got the 3G alternator that I pulled for my 351 Windsor donor vehicle. Let’s take a closer look. One thing you notice right away is this connector here. This is the voltage regulator. Unlike the 1G, which had an external regulator mounted on the fender, the 3G has it built right in. Another thing to note is the size. This one here is a 90 AMP version, which is just slightly larger than the 1G but should still fit in the same bracket with no major modifications. If the mounting points are correct, however, this one won’t work directly for a bullnose swap because the mounting ears aren’t correct. This one has three mounting points. What you need is a version with two mounting ears directly offset at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions. This is a side mount alternator, and you’re looking for a pivot mount alternator.

So how do I know this one’s 90 amps? Well, the 90 AMP models like the one I’m holding here have four vent holes in the rib sections on the front. If you’re looking for the higher output 130 amp version, those typically have two vent holes and are physically larger. That means the mounting holes in the 130 amp model are spaced further apart. So depending on your bracket setup, you may need to make adjustments for a proper fit. Also, keep in mind if you’re running a single V belt system, the 130 amp version might not work out. A single V belt can only handle about 100 amps before it starts to slip. So if you want to run the 130 amp alternator, you’ll need to upgrade to either a serpentine belt setup or a dual V belt system to handle that extra resistance.

Speaking of that, if your bullnose is running a V-belt setup like mine, you’ll also need to swap the pulley from the 1G onto the 3G. If the 3G has a serpentine pulley like this one, it’s pretty straightforward. Just remove the nut that holds the pulley onto the 1G, slide the V-belt pulley off, and do the same on the 3G to remove it. If it has a serpentine pulley, you’ll probably need a shim to move the pulley out just a bit so the belt doesn’t rub on the case, but those are pretty inexpensive. You can then pop the V-belt pulley onto the 3G alternator and tighten it down. That way everything stays compatible with your existing belt system.

And lastly, the output terminals. This heavy-duty charge stud here is where your main power connects. If you’re upgrading to a 3G, you want to run a heavier gauge wire from here to your battery or solenoid to handle the higher output. Now the good news is that even with all that that I just said, the swap isn’t too complicated. But like any job, you want to have the right parts and prep work done first. You’ll need the alternator itself, like the one I just showed you, but with the right mounting setup. The 3G alternators we’re looking for came off a bunch of Ford vehicles from the mid-’90s. To help you out, I put together a list of vehicles you can source a 3G alternator from, which I’ll throw up on the screen right now. Take a look at these vehicles. You’re looking at anything from the 1994 to ’95 Mustang, which had a 130 amp alternator, to vehicles like the Ford Taurus, Thunderbird, and even E-Series Vans. Other options include the Lincoln Continental and Mercury Cougar. You can pick these up at junkyards, and they’ll bolt right up to your bullnose with a little bit of wiring work.

Now, like I mentioned before, if you’re running a V-belt in your truck, you’ll also need to make sure you swap the pulleys. Get that done before you start the actual swap. You don’t want to find out that you forgot when you’re trying to wrap a V-belt around a serpentine pulley. That’s no fun. Now, if you’re not interested in sourcing a 3G alternator from a junkyard, there are plenty of aftermarket options available. Companies like PA Performance and Tough Stuff offer brand new 3G alternators that are designed specifically for older Ford trucks, including bullnoses. These aftermarket models often come with higher output ratings too, sometimes over 200 amps, and they’re built to handle modern accessories. And what’s great about going aftermarket is that many of these kits include the upgraded wiring, a pretty install V-belt pulley if you need it, and even instructions on how to make the swap as easy as possible. Now, they do cost a bit more than a junkyard pull, but it’s a solid option if you want peace of mind with new parts and you don’t want the hassle of digging through salvage.

All right, so you’ve got your parts. Time to get the old 1G out of there. First, disconnect the battery. That’s always the first step when you’re working on anything electrical. Then remove the old alternator. There’s usually a couple of bolts holding it to the bracket, and you’ll need to disconnect the wiring harness. Now, I’m not going to get into how to physically remove the alternator in this video. It’s fairly simple, just a couple of bolts, and there are several videos out there that will show you exactly how. It can be a bit of a pain to get down there with a socket, but just keep at it, and you’ll get there eventually.

Once the old alternator is out, bolt the 3G into place. It should fit right into the existing bracket with minimal fuss so long as you have the right model. If it’s a little tight, some folks have had to grind or modify the bracket slightly, but usually it’s nothing major. Now for the wiring, like I mentioned, the 3G has built-in regulation, so you won’t need the external voltage regulator anymore. Ditch that thing. The external regulator is typically mounted on the passenger side fender inside the engine bay. It’s a small rectangular box with a wiring harness plugged into it. You’ll wire up the new alternator using the 3G harness, so make sure you grab that from your donor if you go that route. If you’re making your own harness, the main thing to get is the power wire from the alternator to the battery or starter solenoid and the smaller wires for the ignition and dash warning light. This is also where you upgrade the charging wire. Go ahead and run that new 4 gauge wire from the alternator to your solenoid or battery, depending on your setup. Put a mega fuse in line to keep everything safe in case of a short.

Once it’s all wired up, double-check your connections. Make sure everything’s tight and secure. Then reconnect your battery, fire up the truck, and check the voltage at the battery with a multimeter. You should see somewhere around 14 volts, give or take. If it’s good, you’re in business. Take a spin around the block, turn on your headlights, crank up the stereo, maybe even turn on any accessories you got, and you’ll notice everything runs smoother, especially when you’re idling. And just like that, you’ve upgraded your charging system to handle pretty much anything you can throw at it. That is until you run your huge set of off-road KC lights while you’re cranking ACDC at your 2500 watt stereo.

So there you have it, the 3G alternator swap. It’s one of those upgrades that makes a world of difference in how your truck runs, especially if you’ve got a lot of electrical demands. More power, better reliability, and less chance of ending up on the side of the road with a melted connector. If you’re thinking about tackling this job, go for it. It’s a solid weekend project that’ll pay off every time you turn the key. Guys, if you learned something today, if you enjoy the content, give me a like, give me a subscribe. I really appreciate that. I’m not trying to beg, but it really does help me out. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, gripes, internet ramblings, stick them below. Thanks again for watching, guys, and we will see you next time.

Howdy folks, Ed here. Welcome back to Bullnose Garage. It’s the day I’ve been waiting for since I bought this thing almost 5 years ago. Today, I’m starting to tear down this 351 Windsor engine, so buckle up, come along, and you’ll see what surprises I discover, both good and bad, from some shocking discoveries, oh, cut all these, to truly painful lessons, and even how much profit, yeah, profit, I’m making off this B. Boy, you don’t want to miss it. Let’s dig in.

Hello. So before we start, I’m going to put up what I paid for this ’95 F-150 chassis with the 351 Windsor and an E4OD transmission. I basically stole it from the guy for 500 bucks, so let’s put that on the screen and we’ll tally the score as we go. What you see is what I got, plus ECM and wiring harness, the steering column, steering wheel, and the gauge cluster. Now, I’ve already sold the gas tanks, the gauge cluster, and the steering wheel with column, so I’m well on my way to at least breaking even and getting the block for free, if nothing else. But I think I’ll do a lot better than that. Let’s see. By the way, I’m future commentary Ed, and I’ll be with you the rest of the way. Double dose.

The first thing I pulled off was the cruise control module, followed by the throttle cable. Both were connected to the throttle body linkage and right on top, so they’re easy to get to. And just like that, a quick $25. Cru. Oh yeah, I remember this part, so does my thumb. That’s going to hurt for a while. Try to take off one of those stubborn rain clamps with pliers. It wasn’t pretty, and there’s the pain I promised you. The brake fluid reservoir pretty much rotted away completely, so there was no way to drain it without getting brake fluid everywhere. I only got some, got more in my shoes. That’s what being out in the southwestern sun every day for 5 years will do to plastic.

So back when I got this donor chassis from a guy in Facebook Marketplace, he was planning on a build but decided to go another way. I suspect it might be because the frame is bent. He didn’t tell me that, but it doesn’t really matter since I’m not using the frame. He even trailered it over from the next town for free. It’s like an hour away, so nice guy. But you know, when you inherit someone else’s project, cleaning things up, there can be surprises. You’ll see what I mean later. I am so adept at everything, so amazingly amazing. Wait a minute, that, oh man, yeah, the bolts for the brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder were practically welded together with rust, so I ended up taking the whole assembly off. And guess what? It wasn’t worth anything. Straight to the trash it goes.

All right, what’s next? I’m not sure if they drained this fluid or not. Oh, it feels pretty empty. Day one may not seem like much progress, but hey, I’m a noob. Newbies got to learn somehow. At least I managed to make a quick $75 and get a bunch of hoses and bits off to start cleaning things up. What about that solenoid? The EGR vacuum regulator solenoid can be a bit more valuable, especially good work. Oh, and by the way, I use AI a lot. You might have already noticed from the images on some of my videos. It’s a huge help. It’s like having a mechanic but in my pocket. I can ask questions on the fly and get instant answers for part numbers or how to remove something. I know there are mixed opinions about AI, but I’m not going to apologize or make excuses for using it. It saves me a ton of time and energy. If you’re not at least checking it out for yourself, you’re kind of missing the boat. If you’re interested in how I’m using AI to help with this tear down and with my channel, let me know. I might just make a video about how I use it.

Finally getting the radiator off here. It’s hung off the front of this thing for 5 years. Do yourself a favor and always be sure to drain the radiator and cooling system before pulling one off. Foreshadowing. I’m planning on keeping it to use in my engine run stand later, so I won’t be selling it. But if I did, that’d be a quick 80 bucks. Little bit. By the way, I’m sorry you’re spending so much time watching my back in this video. I was more focused on working my way around the engine than keeping an eye on the camera. But don’t worry, I mean, that’s why future commentary Ed is here today, keeping you company. Ant hoses, not worth jack in this condition. Like I’m saying, those aren’t worth anything. As I go, I’m snapping pictures to check part numbers, find values, and decide what might be useful for my new build. Spoiler alert, there’s not much I want to use, so most of it’s either going in the trash or up for grabs on Marketplace.

This part is a DPF sensor, and I know that thanks to my AI friend. I also know it’s not worth much. Here I am taking off the alternator, a 3G. By the way, this one won’t fit my Bullnose since it’s side mount, not pivot mount, so up for sale it goes. That’s 40 bucks in my pocket. And hey, if you’ve got an older truck and haven’t done the 3G swap yet, what are you waiting for? I’ve got a great video on just how to do it. Trust me, it’s an easy mod that makes a huge difference. You should go check it out. Amazing, you have part number, but you probably don’t, Mr. Unidentified Bracket. Unidentified throttle body bracket thing. Sh, no part number. I’m guessing, I’m guessing the gasket is not worth jack. You’re right, past Ed, the gasket isn’t worth jack. Most of them aren’t. Oh, that’s dirty. Some, and off comes the throttle body. But even dirty as it is, cleaned up, it’ll probably net me around 65 bucks. So that’s day two in the can and another $85 in my pocket. If you’re keeping score, you notice I’m almost breaking even and I haven’t even talked about the transmission, which will be in the next video. Differential or wheels? Yet not too shabby, right?

Know what that is? It’s a vacuum reservoir or something. I don’t know what it is. That’s what it is. It’s a vacuum something. By the way, if any of you know what this hose is, let me know in the comments. I spent an hour searching for one and just came up empty. Just like that, I guess I ended up removing the entire bracket for the smog pump. Why? Well, because to take off just the pump, you have to pull the pulley off so you can get to the bolts. It’s easier just to take the whole bracket with the pump still attached. I can always separate them later or sell them as one unit. But for accounting sake, let’s break it down. Smog pump, 80 bucks. Bracket, 75. Now, I bet someone who knows what they’re doing could have stripped this thing in a short afternoon. For me, it took 4 days spread over 3 weeks to get to the point at the end of this video. But hey, I mean, that’s how you learn, right? I mean, at least that’s how I do it.

The AC compressor comes off pretty easy, provided it’s already drained. And just a quick reminder, if it’s not empty, make sure you handle it safely and legally. Uh, mine was already drained, so it was an easy removal. You have to drain it. You have to make sure that you don’t discharge it into the air. Well, that’s another 80 bucks added to the total. Next up, the transmission cooler. That came off quickly too, and I’m hoping to get around 20 bucks for it. Oh, and then there’s that. Not sure what size that is. Oh, it’s that size. Ooh, it’s that size. Now can I actually get this in here? Probably not. Oh, maybe. Hey, look at that. I decided to just cut the power steering pump lines here since it was a pain to remove. The lines aren’t worth anything in this condition anyway. I did gain a valuable lesson in environmentalism, though. Come on, you there, just go in there. Whoops, okay, okay. I thought it was interesting how the power steering lines loop around the front of the chassis here. It’s for cooling, like a poor man’s radiator. I didn’t know that until I worked on this thing. So that’s day three and a cool 255 bucks.

Day four, I decided to get the radiator fan out of the way. I even rented the special tool from the parts store, only to find out I didn’t need it. Turns out the fan had four regular bolts. A socket and strap wrench took care of the job with the clutch included. That’s another 80 bucks. Power steering pump, same story as the smog pump. You have to remove the pulley to get it off the bracket, so I took the whole thing off instead. Now, I could use this pump for my new build, but I’m probably going to go with a saginaw pump, maybe even like a nice chrome one. So this old one is going to go in the sale bin. That’s another 65 bucks for the pump and 50 for the bracket.

I discovered that the intake has one star bolt in the middle on the inside. I’m not sure why they would do that, but clearly, I’m not an engineer. I’m sure there’s a good reason for that. I don’t know what it is. Are you joking? Not only is it a different bolt, but it’s tucked down under and between the intake runners, so the star bit I had originally wouldn’t fit. The base was too big around. Fortunately, like any man card-holding member of society, I never throw away a tool, so all I had to do was search long enough to find what I needed. Please be the right size, kind of small. Please be the right size. There we go, and off comes the upper intake. That right there is a big chunk of aluminum and a big chunk to the kitty.

Remember when I mentioned inheriting someone else’s project? It’s moments like this that remind me that you have to take the bad with the good. Oh, he cut all these. He just cut them all, so these are garbage because he just cut them. Like, he just cut them. I didn’t even realize he did that, but yeah, whoever had it before me just cut them. Just straight up snip, snip, snip, snip, motherfucker. Oh, bastard. My guess is that he tried to get it off reasonably and then probably couldn’t, and then so he just decided, you know, fuck it, I’ll replace all that anyway. But this harness is garbage because you could tell all the wires. So unfortunate. The fuel rails might be worth something, but the harness is garbage. HOH. I thought maybe I dropped that into the unit tank. Doesn’t really matter. I’m taking it all apart anyway, but that would just mean I had to take it apart. I wouldn’t have any choice anymore. Let’s go put garbage in the garbage. This harness would have been around 80 bucks, but the previous owner cut the wires to the injectors. Still, just look at that total down there. I cannot complain. And that’s as far as I got on my 4-day adventure. Let’s head out and take a closer look.

Okay, so here’s how it sits right now. Fuel rails are still on there. I’ll probably go ahead and pull the engine off those. You see, I’ve got my intake holes covered up here. I still got the transmission to get off there and all that kind of stuff. I still got to drain the oil and the fluid. I’ll do that probably before I move it. Obviously, I’ve got this issue with this tire here. It’s pretty much roached. I’m not sure if I can roll it like that or not. I don’t have to go very far, just up out this gate and over to the garage over there. So I got a plan for that. See, yeah, like I said before, I’m leaving the exhaust manifolds on here because I just don’t want those big open gaping holes out into the environment here. I’ll take that stuff off once I pull the engine. I don’t quite yet have a plan for how I’m going to pull the engine in the… I don’t have a tranny hoist, but I do have some jacks and, you know, a lot of wood, so I think I can figure that out. Backyard mechanic special coming at you.

So that’s where we are now. But what’s the plan? Well, this video is just a start of a whole series covering the complete rebuild of this 351 Windsor from pulling it out of the chassis all the way to running it down the strip. My goal is to strip this engine down to the block, take it to the machine shop, build it back up, drop it in the truck, and then take it out for a quarter-mile run. And I’m going to cover every single step of the way for guys like me who don’t really know what they’re doing but they’re ready to learn. Next up is getting that chassis into the garage, and since it can’t move under its own power and it’s heavy as hell even without the body, you’re probably wondering how I’m going to do that. Don’t worry, I got a plan. Stay tuned for that.

Once the chassis is in, I’ll be pulling the engine off and we’ll tear it down together. We’ll go through it with a fine-tooth comb, looking at how the engine’s been treated, what signs to look for during a rebuild, and everything else you need to know when tackling a project like this. Once that’s done, we’ll get the block to the machine shop and talk to the machinist. We’ll cover all the services they offer, what they cost, what they’re for, and why you might need them or not, depending on your build. We’ll go through the whole nine yards. Then we paint the block. After that, I’ll walk you through the entire engine build. We’ll talk about component choices, camshaft, valves, lifters, rotating assembly, everything. I’ll explain why you choose certain parts, how they work together, and how to build the right kind of engine for your needs, whether it’s high torque, high horsepower, street, or strip. And I’ll share why I’m making the choices I am for this build.

Hopefully, by the end of the series, you’ll be able to grab my parts list and replicate my engine build from scratch, even if you’re not a mechanic. My goal is to be that detailed with you guys, especially during the build process. Look, I’ve done my homework. I’ve bought books, I read up on everything, I’ve watched dozens, probably hundreds of YouTube videos, but there’s still a lot that I don’t know. So I hope to bring in a pro to help fill those gaps. When you’re building an engine, missing even one small detail can come back to haunt you later, so I’ll make sure we go over everything step by step. That way, we can learn together. And if I succeed, great. But if I fail, well, you know, that’s great content too because it’ll help you avoid making the same mistakes.

Once it’s built, I want to get this engine on a stand and fire it up first. Then I’ll pull the 3006 out and I’ll go through that process with you so we can talk about what parts need to keep and what to replace, cleaning and painting the engine bay, decluttering and cleaning up the electrical system. Then we can drop the Windsor into the truck, get everything hooked up, and take it out for a test drive. And I want you to be there with me for every step. The ultimate goal? Well, the last series of this episode will hopefully be me taking that truck to the strip and getting a quarter-mile time. That’s where I want to end this series, but not the channel. There’s lots more to do than just the engine. Now, it’s going to take a while. I’m a busy guy. I got a family and a job and a lot of other stuff going on. But my hope is to create a series of videos that you can sit back, watch, and binge like a Netflix series. And by the time you’re done, you’ll know exactly how to take an engine off the chassis, rebuild it, and get it running.

Guys, if you’re excited to follow along with me, here’s the ask: like and subscribe, hit the bell for notifications, and keep up with this build. And if you want to support the channel and help me buy some cool performance parts, grab yourself a hat from the merch store. Thanks again so much for watching, guys. I hope you join me for this adventure, and we will see you next time around the edges. But she’s doing fine, take her away, getting things to shine. She’s consider. Thanks again for watching. We will see you next time. Thanks again for watching. We’ll see you next time.